So I just bought a 2012 Gaggia Classic used without any prior knowledge of how an espresso machine works. I watched your video twice and successfully disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled without any issues. Thank you so much! And what an incredible little machine. I already ordered some replacement parts and it's so easy to work with.
This is the best tear-down and service on the Italian-built pre-2015 Gaggia Classic I have seen. Thank you, I have just followed your lead and done this myself.
To add to the chorus: You are a godsend, sir! I've just purchased a second-hand Gaggia Classic made in 2008, and this video is precisely what I needed to know. Very well done.
This is absolutely fantastic, just bought a Gaggia Classic and need to give it a service and check the condition of parts, very detailed, this is a perfect video, thank you very much!
@@lukebennettuk You're welcome. Parts are still easily available and doing a full service and seal replacement will see it good for several more years.
You have no idea how invaluable this was! Having never touched a coffee machine mechanically to completely stripping my first Classic 2008 that was manky and getting it to near new condition... I have you to thank my friend.
I have to thank you my friend it took me a while but I finally found time to fix my machine! I couldn't have done it without your excellent tutorial. ☕️ cheers
Just completed this and found your video invaluable so thank you. Did run into a snag early on where the button panel at the front would not budge. I eventually removed all the plugs (numbered of course) in order to gain access and remove the boiler.
My Gaggia Classic flow had reduced to a dribble and normal descale didn't help. Waited until I had a good few hours clear and followed this very useful step by step guide. Have a newer Classic (has an earth) but followed the video and the coffee is now flowing once again. Many thanks.
Fantastic news, glad to hear this helped you, the boiler is very small so even a relatively small scale buildup will become noticeable in quantity and brew temp quickly. If you are in a particularly hard water area you can pump in a solution of citric acid once a month then flush through and it'll greatly extend your strip and service periods, don't forget to brew and discard a shot after to flush through and season, (there's a use for cheap supermarket coffee beans, ;) )
The tips during assembly, like not to over-tighten brass fittings, was really helpful! The explanation of the different parts was also very informative and appreciated. Thanks!
Absolutely fantastic video, thank you for sharing your knowledge. Definitely takes the mystery out of servicing these amazing little machines, and makes buying a used and abused one less of a risk. Just managed to get one for a song, and yes, all the seals are shot, but now I know what to do about it without spending mega-bucks having it serviced by someone else!
Man, this saved my life. My '99 classic running perfectly again. Only have to fix my stuck dispersion plate now but this video was just perfect and answered all my questions! Thanks!
Thanks for the detailed step by step video. Bought a Gaggia classic off eBay at a great price. The selenoid valve was clogged causing zero water flow thru the group head. Did what you showed on this vid and now it works like new👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Good Show ! A very informative class on doing a major, and necessary service on the GC. I especially was impressed by your method of resurfacing the boiler mating surface : sand smooth with wet/dry paper. Any chap/gal with basic mechanical skills and mega patience can perform this rebuild -- thanks to your video. I stress the importance of first buying a metric set of both " spanners" ( wrenches, USA ) and allen wrenches ( ca. $ 13.50 for both at a discount shop ). Cheers from a former Yank, RAF Lakenheath.
Meant to also say that I have puddle of brew water sitting on top of my coffee puck after extraction, I have descaled, back flushed, and taken the solenoid valve apart for cleaning, after viewing your boiler descale tutorial, my overflow pipe does release quite freely the excess descaler which a you say indicates the solenoid is working correctly, I have also tried different grind sizes, and doses, but still end up with a pool of water on the puck. I recently upgraded my basket to a 'Nanotech' type which is slightly curved and gives a better extraction, I have stopped tamping and now use a quality leveler which does prevent chanelling. I read that another subscriber has a group head leak problem.
I am honestly very grateful for this invaluable contribution! The solenoid valve of my gaggia 1998 was clogged and the portafilter came out with such pressure that it bent a part of the metal of the brew head where the portafilter is being put on. I hope that I can repair it after your video! Thank you!
Thank you for making this video. It is so complete and was answering my questions before I asked them as I stripped the machine. Very rewarding to resurrect my machine which needed a deep service. Brilliant!
Thanks for posting this thorough tutorial, this was exactly what I was looking for.. I found a 2013 Classic unit online & I hope to strip it down & give it a good cleaning before using. Coming from an amazon cheap-o unit I didn't want to jump into a $450 Evo model right out the gate.. we'll se how it goes
I took my gaggia classic completely apart refitted it after descaling and replace all seals and got no steam. After trying everything I followed the circuit diagram and found that somehow I wired the side lower thermostat with the top thermostat and vice versa. Also there was no continuity (beep test) on the solenoid. Tested it physically by putting a screw driver through the coil. Made my wife Happy.
I have the Gaggia Coffee (circa 1989) machine which is nearly identical to this one. I bought it used and opened the boiler to reveal a large amount of mineral build-up. The water in my area is quite hard. After cleaning the machine has been making great coffee for nearly 20 years!
Excellent. I’m nervous but this has motivated me to do the same for my 2003 model which has never been serviced! I do live in a soft water area though so it shouldn’t be too bad.
Antony Johnson As long as it's not been subject to extremes of temperature and moisture out shouldn't be dangerous but that length of time it'll certainly benefit from a strip clean and reseal. The seals will likely be brittle.
Hi. Excellent video although I got a little confused at one or two places. I've done all the cleaning after marking up all the connectors. Put it back together with new o-rings. However, when I tried to fire it up, it is tripping the house RCD. Not sure what I have done wrong. Any thoughts? Does it matter if the Boiler Temperature Sensor cables are the opposite way round - they are the only ones that I'm not happy I marked them clearly enough?
Thank you, take it steady and you'll be fine, the most important part is loosening the boiler screws before removing it from the case as they're likely to be the tightest and possibly corroded.
Amazing tutorial. I am gonna try it now.wish me luck. Ah 34:10 i’ve heard someone saying 19sec is the time. That’s what i do.maybe try that.works just fine for me. That is. -power button, heat up machine. -press steam button -after 19 seconds turn of steam button and brew
Great video ! I have a question… I own a. Gaggia 1986 espresso machine. Over the weekend I was brewing coffee and the portafilter let go on one end. I quickly realized that the brew head collar had chipped off on one end, making the portafilter impossible to stay in its place. I was wondering if the brew head is the same as the one in your video ? And if I can possibly just replace the collar or is it one whole piece ?
I have a pretty rough Gaggia Classic I keep as a spare machine (main machine is a Wega Mini Nova) the Classic had a malfunction last time it was used a couple of years ago, but I forget now what it didn't do properly. I figure doing what you show on here, plus a new set of seals and o-rings should be a good start, as I think the malfunction was pretty minor anyway. Parts including steam-wand upgrade are on the way, so should be pulling it apart in about a week. I think I might need it soon as the Wega is showing signs of not being at it's best anymore.
It's a pleasure and I'm always glad to help a fellow coffee lover ensure that it keeps flowing. The Gaggia is a great little machine. Glad you found the video helpful. I'm now getting back into the rebuild of the Wega commercial machine I have a couple of videos on so there'll be an update on that soon. 🙂
Superb video - well-edited, excellent and helpful commentary, and no bloody music - thank you so much! I was able to completely dismantle, clean and reassemble my Gaggia Classic, which now looks and, most importantly, works good as new. One puzzling aspect: although all limescale was completely removed, using the official Gaggia descaler (8 quid a bottle, ouch!) there was a hard, crystalline white deposit inside the boiler which wouldn't shift, although no doubt a power tool wire-brush would have helped. Is this possibly an aluminium salt, or oxide? No matter, all important areas were totally clear and the espressos are perfect, once again. Many thanks!
Thanks for the feedback, glad to hear another espresso machine is saved from the 'I'll look at it later' cupboard. :) Your description sounds more like a buildup of scale rather than oxidisation. As alloy oxidises it tends to be loose and powdery leaving a darker surface underneath, (which is good, acts as a protective inert layer unlike steel which will continue to corrode, so don't brush it back to bright alloy). I wouldn't worry about it now just check that your extraction temp is good, next time you do it, get yourself some cheap citric acid and let it sit in the boiler longer and keep checking, re pl enish as necessary. The Gaggia stuff is good but as you noted pricey whereas a big bag of citric acid will last ages stored dry and make lots of solution.
Thanks for the further info. I was puzzled that, despite my leaving the boiler filled with neat Gaggia descaler for an hour, there was no bubbling at all, and the deposits remained unchanged. I had bought some citric acid powder but decided to play safe, having read warnings elsewhere (probably posted by Gaggia!) that it could damage the aluminium. No problem though - my machine is now performing wonderfully well. I'm left wondering if it scaled up through being left unused for 3 months. Are there any instructions for 'laying up' a Classic?
@@jseagullbha5690 The only thing to do before laying it up for a period is empty the boiler. Leaving it full leaves the water contents longer to deposit things on the boiler sides and if you're in a particularly hard water area it can fur up quickly. Easiest way I've found is to heat up for steaming and purge the steam wand into a container, leave the valve open, empty the water tank and once cooled tip the machine upside down over the sink to get the remnants of water out through the steam wand.
Thanks! Your extreme purging method seems well worth doing, to avoid in absentia scaling - very hard water here, in Sussex Downland! However, any chance of an airlock being created on refilling? (And if so, how best to tackle that?)
@@jseagullbha5690 that shouldn't be possible unless you have a blockage in your steam wand. The group had extracts at the bottom and the steam at the top. Best way to check is to open the valve fully and switch all the switches on, water should jet from the wand after the boiler fills to the top. If not then it's possible some of the scale. (If that's what the fur is) has come loose. You could try filling the boiler with a citric acid solution and run a few cycles through it and hopefully you won't need to strip it again yet.
Thanks, it could mean many things from a blockage somewhere to a failed pump to the plumbing not correctly fitted. If it was working and has stopped the most likely culprit is the pump. These vibratory pumps are cheap and though they can be stripped they're not designed to be rebuilt. If it's new to you check if you only have one hose to the water tank that it's on the correct fitting, there are 2, a feed and a return. Once you know that's correct you can test the pump by pulling the feed to the group and powering it to see if it pumps water, if it does then the blockage is in the group somewhere.
spidiq8 we’ve had it from new, a long time now, anyway I took the ‘sieve’ bit off from where it connects with where the coffee goes and it was filthy with built up dirt. I used some cleaning solution and let the parts soak overnight. Just put it back this morning and it works again, the water comes gushing through. Thanks for the help, but I don’t think I had the knackers to delve deep inside the machine as you did, my toolkit consists of an axe, a hammer and an old butter knife for a screwdriver. A skill passed down to me from my father who tended to fix everything from watches to TV sets with the old hammer. Thanks again.
As a Gaggia Classic owner myself, this was a really useful video.....thanks for making it.....would you be able to put some links to where you purchased the citric acid and replacement gaskets, o-rings etc....Cheers.
Thanks for the excellent video! Was doing well, if a little slow, until I got to cracking the 5mm allen bolts on the boiler. Shifted three but the fourth head sheared off. Got the boiler open but need to remove the stub of bolt! Any tips?
Is the bolt protruding or has it snapped flush? If protruding, heat the area gently with a blowtorch and use mole grips to unfasten it, the alternative to heat is leaving that bolt soaked in penetrating oil for a while. Galvanic corrosion between steel and aluminium can really grip though. If it's flush, similar to the above but you'll need to carefully drill it and use something like an easy out.
@@spidiq8 Protruding. Soaked overnight in WD. Filed off square and a big auld fella shifted it. Back on course! Many thanks and really enjoying the little project.
@@quickrimscb Great stuff. When you reassemble use a very small amount of graphite grease on the threads and make sure the mating surfaces are flat, use a sheet of wet n dry on a glass plate or other flat surface if need be.
Hi love the vid. I have unscrewed the boiler sense of temperature and noticed some white residue between screw and boiler. is it something put there to avoid galvanic corrosion. do I need to replace it before I reassemble ?
Simon Nygaard Thanks, glad you liked it. Is it powdery or does it appear slightly viscous? I'm not entirely certain but it could be a thermal paste to aid heat transfer but if powdery more likely it's galvanic corrosion, clean with a nylon brush, (toothbrush e.g. or a scotchbrite pad like a dish sponge and a dot of thermal paste won't hurt if you have any, if not a tiny dot of copper grease but not lots, despite the name it's not the most efficient conductor.
This is a great video, great detail and clarity. I have a Gaggia Classic which Id like to restore. Not sure which parts I need but the main symptom is that while the pump noise is normal and the boiler heats, there is no throughput of water only through the frother / steamer. Would anyone know if this means a boiler replacement or some other part. Is it easier to just replace the boiler and pump? Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks
If water is coming through the brew head the boiler is filling so that's good. The fault has to be a blockage between the boiler and wand. It could be the valve or the pipework to the steam wand itself. A good soak of everything in citric acid solution is a good start after disassembly.
@@spidiq8 Thanks so much for you answer. I'll go through the process you describe in the video. FIngers crossed. I'll let you know the results. Best regards. Gerry
@@spidiq8 Dropping back in to say I've finished the restoration,. Bought a few parts along the way, Group, shower, solenoid and even a pump, So far it all looks good. I wanted to say thanks very much for your help. It would have been impossible without your video. This means I can give up coffee pods too, a positive environmental impact too I hope. Best wishes Gerry
@@gfficomable That's great news, thank you for updating me and long may you enjoy better coffee. Find yourself a local roaster and start grinding fresh and you'll never go back to pods.
Great help. Thanks. Completed my service without a problem after your video! I was a fitter's mate for five years but never saw such a brilliant screwdriver. What make is it and where can you get it? Thanks
Jerry OBrien Thanks, glad it was useful to you, that screwdriver is incredible. Sadly I can't tell you the make or where to get one, I got it cheap from a tool stall on Doncaster car boot years ago because one of the straight blade bits was missing and it was the only there, no packet, makers name, brand or anything but it is a good quality one.
Thanks so much for this. I just bought a used Classic and got scammed with a faulty machine, it probably has calcifications blocking it's valves. I'll be using this video for the teardown for sure. Hope it's only the valves, also hoping I won't mess this up horribly like I did my previous adventures involving water.. :)
Fingers crossed for you that it's an easy fix, on a positive note. Spares are really available and not too costly. A good soak in citric acid will not hurt and hopefully you'll be up and running with delicious coffee very soon.
@@spidiq8 citric acid attempted , unfortunately, nada. Time for a full teardown. On the bright side, if I can fix this, I might take the plunge for a more expensive/complex machine because I'll be less worried about service costs. Fun intro into espresso machines for sure...
@@inconspicuous-nobody That's the spirit! You can get some great single boiler heat exchanger machines without going into commercial territory. Just take the disassembly carefully and take photos along the way, you'll realize it's far easier than you'd think. Keep me updated. Always interested to hear another's coffee journey.
@@spidiq8 I have my sights set on an Arte di Vittoria BFC Junior. The €380 asking price and the plethora of unpleasant problems (it was a machine previously in commercial use) I could encounter there are the things holding me back, mostly the latter. The Gaggia goes first though. Thank you for the tips, I'll definitely keep you updated :)
@@inconspicuous-nobody If you can handle the Gaggia. (And I'm sure you can), a commercial machine differs only in the fact that some of the parts are a bit costlier which is just because of the nature of it. However, once running you'll only ever need service items once every couple of years or less perhaps s you won't be using it as heavily as in a commercial environment. The most important thing is regular flushing if you're in a hard water area or use bottled or filtered water.
Great video this but I still have just drips from the group head after the replacing pump and removing solenoid and dismantling it , which looked like new, I but I cleaned it anyway and checked flow by blowing through it. I would appreciate your advice and an explanation of how the flow works from pump to group and wand as the pump feeds the group so I can't see where the solenoid fits into the flow or how it affects it, especially if it does not actuate. I used to have good flow to waste on switch off but none now.
Thanks, glad it helped. Yes the boiler is aluminium, no the citric acid solution isn't a problem provided you don't leave it sitting for hours unattended, It can eat into the aluminium but only in very highly concentrated measures and left for a long time. You need to fill it and soak just long enough to loosen and remove the scale.
I've had my GC for 3 years and just replaced the group gasket (following a different video.) this one may come in handy down the line. thank you for the time and effort you put into producing this video. How do you measure the temperature at the group head? do you measure the water after it hits a cup (which will chill the water a bit)? do you heat up a cup and then run water thru the group and check it (doesn't sound like it would be acurate). or do you run the water and put a thermometer right into the water as it runs out? (or some other way?...)
Glad it's useful to you. The easiest way to measure the group head temp I found is to run water as if you were brewing a shot after letting the machine warm up for at the very least 10 min, if you run it through the portafilter ensure you've run some through first as this takes a while to warm and stabilise if not. Extract it into a Styrofoam cup with a thermometer in. This is crucial as Styrofoam is the most temperature stable material whereas ceramic can cool or hear the water quickly. This will get you as close as you're able, if you want to get really technical add 0.5 to 1 degree OR using a thermocouple set it right under the group head and before the portafilter.
Hiya. Love the video. Bought a 2006 model. Boiler badly caked up. Just wondering does the bath solution for group head/wand contain citrus acid solution also. Ta
Glad it helped, I don't know about the premade solutions specifically so I can't advise re those other than ensure that you follow the directions on the bottles. Citric acid solution however works without problem on these, just don't leave the boiler in it for longer than necessary to remove the scale.
Yes! For me and I highly recommend it to anyone else who like me isn't an electrical expert and doesn't want to blow themselves up by plugging in the wrong way. 😁
The best video! Question: if the inside of the boiler has little holes (looks like the aluminium dissolved), should I be concerned? And if there is quite some chrome plating missing on the inside of the group head, should I replace it? Thanks for your help in advance! Kind regards Michael
Well done on a super job and thorough video. Have you any experience with similar machines? I have a Lelit PL 41 plus that I’m pretty sure needs an acid bath. Tips are welcome.
Sadly not, just the gaggia and my Wega commercial that I rebuilt. The principles are the same however. They use either a single boiler, double boiler or single boiler with heat exchanger.
@@spidiq8 You have no idea how proud I am managing to use your brilliant tutorial and emptying the boiler of a handful of limescale. AND putting it all back together. The boiler refill worked a treat and it passed all your leak tests. The 1st shot brought tears of pride to my eyes. Can't thank you enough. Next up the Rancillio!
Yeh thanks : have tried all that - sometimes pump is very loud and obviously working other times it seems to be quite and not working!!?? Will try some cleaning powder otherwise I might take you up on your very kind offer in Glasgow ...!? Many thanks James
There's a possibility the pump is wearing out, they're a non serviceable vibration pump but aren't too expensive to replace but it could just be a blockage that's restricting it as the noise does vary according to back pressure. Let me know how it goes.
Very helpful video. Thanks! I watched because I acquired a Gaggia Coffee that has been sitting for probably 15 years now. To do a full maintenance, do you know if anything would be different in the process than what you showed in this video for the Classic?
Is the gaggia coffee a different model? I'm honestly unsure as I've only ever had classic machines. I do know. With the exception of the new Phillips ones they're all much the same.
@@spidiq8 it’s very much like the Classic but I think it was the predecessor and I’m not sure of the differences. My Gaggia Coffee was made in Italy in 1998.
Thank you for this! For some reason, the silicone ring that seals the boiler doesn't fit anymore. Do you know why? It's the same one as was on the machine before I took it apart
Sorry, I couldn't say for sure, I know some types of rubber O rings actually deform and expand once removed and are nigh on impossible to refit, the boiler one however, I wouldn't recommend re using the gasket as it's such a crucial one and holds all the pressure.
@@spidiq8 thanks for replying! I'm having an issue where the steam wand won't produce much steam. It produces some stuff but not very powerful then stops. Do you know what's wrong? I've descaled many times and even stripped the machine and descaled again. But nothing fixes it. What can I do? I have a Gaggia Coffee
Thanks for the fantastic video I'm going to do mine today. I mentioned very little about the pump, does that need descaling or servicing and when do you need to replace it? Thanks again
Thank you, you'll find it's surprisingly easy. The pump is a/serviceable item as they're not designed to be stripped but what you can do is run a tank or two of citric acid solution through first before stripping in 30 or so second bursts.
@@eugeneniemand If it failed to pump and build up adequate pressure, this would be very evident. You could also look up the flow rate which I don't know offhand and pump water through into a measuring beaker for an appropriate length of time to see if it's near enough. I.e. if it's 250ml per minute 30sec worth of operation should yield roughly 125ml of water.
When you sanded down the boiler, do you sand down the inside of it too? I've managed to descale my machine, but now I have this metallic taste to the espresso. I have a gaggia baby, where, the steam valve doesn't come off, so I had to do the job joined onto the machine.
No, being aluminium you don't want to sand the inner, the only part I sanded and the only purpose was the mating surface to ensure it made a good seal on the group head so the gasket didn't leak.
Quick tip. If you're doing anything over the sink always, always have the plug holes in the sink plugged. Trying to retrieve a small screw that's gone down the hole can be very frustrating.
Just purchased a second hand Gaggia Classic and a bit gutted as no water comes through the grouphead. Steam and water comes through the wand fine, so could it be the solenoid? Any tips on what I should do here?
It's some kind of blockage to the group head as it's getting to the steam wand. Quick and easy check would be to unscrew the screen and the dispersal block and see if it flows then. If so, it's the dispersal block, if not something further in. As it's second hand anyway I'd recommend you strip, descale and clean as per the video then you'll know it's spotless and with fairly regular descaling will be OK for a long time.
not to worry, i meant the solneoid itself - how to take it apart to retrieve the springed piston inside and clean it properly. FYI - if any others are struggling with this, mine was incredibly stiff and i ended up screwing the base of the solenoid into a plank of wood and then using a spanner to get it off, thanks anway :)
@@Allegedly2right I was going to say if you're in the UK and wanted to send it I'd take a look and see if there's anything I could do. I do have some security screw bits but it depends what type they are.
Haven't had a problem like that. That sounds like a short if it's tripping your electrics. Check for any loose wires touching the metal of the case and be sure not to touch it whilst plugged in.
@@spidiq8 Thanks for the quick reply and suggestion, I’ll check. Your full service video was very informative. I’ve just finished doing a full strip down descale and seal replacement, with a few minor upgrades, only to connect it all back up to find the electrical fault. I’m also wondering if a cable is damaged, I have an electrician coming for another job and he has agreed to test the wiring for me. All the best.
@@simon.revill Good luck, I'm no electrical expert but suspect it'll be something simple. Please update when you find out but be sure not to try plugging it into a live socket while touching the case meanwhile, being metal could give you a nasty shock.
I have CCD Indus machine and in that I have a problem that espresso shot is not coming proper like water is not coming properly only coming in drops Kindly tell me what can be the issue
Sorry, I don't know that machine, if it's a basic thermoblock it could be a pump on the way out, if could also be that your coffee is too fine a grind.
I’ve got a question - if I do a backflush and don’t get any flow back to the reservoir does it mean that: a) the OPV is not working correctly or b) the pressure is set way to high? I don’t have the manometer to check the pressure on the group. Great video, thanks!
I'm assuming you're blocking the group head with either a blind basket or some means of blocking up the standard basket? If so. You should get water beyond the pressure set flowing back into the reservoir and when you stop expressing the excess should expel from the waste pipe into the tray. The opv could be blocked or inoperative but yes, the pressure could be set way too high also.
spidiq8 thank You. Yes, I have a blind basket. After switching the pump off, the water comes through the external pipe and to the drip tray, so I assume that the three way solenoid is working fine (also I did the test with open steam valve, switching on the pump - water comes through both the group shower and the steam wand, so I believe the three way solenoid is somehow working fine). As the machine is really old and in pretty bad shape, I don’t think I’m going to spend any big money on replacing parts, but I’ll try to figure out how to measure the pressure and perhaps try to clean the opv. Thanks again!
Hey mate, just wondering what kit I should buy online before I attempt this? I don’t want to open my machine up to find all the rubber parts have perished
Most online barista supply stores will sell seal kits or alternatively searching ebay will yield a full replacement seal kit, just search for the Gaggia classic.
This is a fantastic video, but please remove the brew and steam thermostats before you immerse the boiler unit in descaling liquid - they are not supposed to get wet! If you do get them soaked, you'll need to dry them out fully before reassembling, or you will risk short circuiting.
22:00 . . . the replacement gasket is silicone and not great in high heat applications over the long term. Instead of silicone o-rings/gaskets, you should be using EPDM70 rubbers for these higher heat applications.
The replacement gasket there you see is a Gaggia service approved upgraded boiler specific gasket as supplied in the service kit. It's been in and in regular use for the last 2 years in that machine and seen another group gasket replacement in that time so I'm fairly confident in thinking it's the correct type but thanks for your feedback.
@@spidiq8 Who ever told you it's Gaggia service approved was not being very precise. These "approvals" refer only to the size, not material. While they may not rupture, if they do they can damage other components inside the machine, which can get costly. But hey, to each their own :-)
@@beanmeup9902 Given the only gasket of that size in a Gaggia is the boiler and given that all the high heat related seals are of the same material and given its worked faultlessly in regular use for 2 years of expressing and steaming I feel secure in the knowledge it's perfectly adequate or above for the job. It didn't specify the material but I do know colour alone cannot be relied upon so it may well be the EPDM70 you mention. I've fitted viton o rings to fuel injection systems on vehicles and seen them both green and red so it seems there's not a worldwide standard colouring for o rings. I thank you for your concern and if you have any specific data or examples to share regarding the comments you shared you're welcome to do so.
@@spidiq8 sounds like it's working out and the worst that could happen is a rupture and damage to a component like the Parker but I wouldn't worry too much, even a substandard silicone gasket is likely better than an old EPDM70 or NBR70. The only movement that occurs in this situation, as well, is expansion and contraction against the mated surfaces channels between boiler halves, so it is far less than say in the Parker o-rings where material selection can be more important. Anyway Tip Top video! These types of videos are few and far between and for those in the coffee culture and interested in these fascinating pieces of engineering and tech, your video is a gem and very thorough :-)
@@beanmeup9902 Thanks. It's interesting to know about the different materials and their uses and I'll readily admit I don't know enough about the chemistry which is why I try to source from suppliers who make these kits. The intention with this video was to demonstrate that the innards of am espresso machine aren't that much of a mystery and the Gaggia being such a well known and loved classic means many owners might drag theirs from the cupboards and get them going again.
Sorry, have worked it out now. Working much better after a bench check that the solenoid is working and the flow through the the bottom piece confirmed using a pippet. Flow still not like that seen in the adverts but good enough until I find a way to check the pressure without a gauge.
Hi, apologies I didn't get back before. Glad things are flowing a bit. I'm assuming that you've descaled the boiler. These are very small and scale up quickly in hard water areas and that causes flow problems.
@@spidiq8 No, I have not as the solenoid was like new, no contamination at all so I thought the boiler could not be at fault. I poked a pit of wire up the two boiler holes the solenoid valve operates with and it went in about 40mm without any resistance.before coming up to something solid If you think I should I will have a go with the boiler and safety valve next week I have put the old pump back and it is as good as the new one so I have a spare pump. Any idea how to check the pressure without a gauge or should one just experiment when everything else has been done?
my GC brings water back into its tank, but not through the exit for coffee. Could it be the pump that is no longer effective, or is it full of limestone? Furthermore, if I remove the valve from under the head unit, the water flows out freely.
It could be the 3 way valve that's clogged, the over pressure unit. It could also be limescale build up on the shower head and surrounding area. I'd recommend a good strip, descale and clean, the holes in the valves are very small and if you live in a hard water area.
My old Classic shows a certain delay on every other backflush. It does work but sometimes gets stuck, and either takes some time or only comes out when I open the steam valve. Is this a sign for a clogged Solenoid?
@@ggmann495 Backflushing is done to clean coffee residue from the internal pipework. There shouldn't be any grounds as the filter mesh is too fine to allow that but there will be residue, the problem is if you're in a hard water area or the machine has come from one scale buildup will quickly clog it. Backflushing will only flush the internal pipework which draws the excess water from the coffee puck but it's done because the residue will go off eventually and taint the taste. When you descale first with an unknown history I recommend filling the boiler and overflowing through the wand and let that sit for the required amount of time then drain and using fresh descaler run several backflushing cycles. The wand can be unbolted and left to sit in solution separately also. This should clear the bulk out and then once every few months a normal descale will keep it clean.
spidiq8 Went through all your steps! Thanks a lot. One last question: with the machine ”ON“ but with no other buttons pushed/activated, water or steam comes out of the wand when I turn on the steam knob. Is this the way it should be?
@@ggmann495 Yes but not excessive amounts. The steam knob simply opens the pipe at the top of the boiler and there'll always be a little residual water and because the boiler is a sealed unit and pressure builds up with the heater on a little will escape. If you start the brew button water will exit the most open route which is the steam wand and if you operate the steam button it will heat and stream will exit. The knob simply opens and closes the pipe.
Do you mean the dispersion block or the shower plate? All Gaggia classic use a standard size regardless so if you search for Gaggia classic+part you'll find what you need.
So I just bought a 2012 Gaggia Classic used without any prior knowledge of how an espresso machine works. I watched your video twice and successfully disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled without any issues. Thank you so much! And what an incredible little machine. I already ordered some replacement parts and it's so easy to work with.
This is the best tear-down and service on the Italian-built pre-2015 Gaggia Classic I have seen. Thank you, I have just followed your lead and done this myself.
Glad I could help.
The coffee community is just unbelievably helpful. Thank you very very much!
Glad it helped.
To add to the chorus: You are a godsend, sir! I've just purchased a second-hand Gaggia Classic made in 2008, and this video is precisely what I needed to know. Very well done.
Glad I could help!
This is absolutely fantastic, just bought a Gaggia Classic and need to give it a service and check the condition of parts, very detailed, this is a perfect video, thank you very much!
@@lukebennettuk You're welcome. Parts are still easily available and doing a full service and seal replacement will see it good for several more years.
You have no idea how invaluable this was! Having never touched a coffee machine mechanically to completely stripping my first Classic 2008 that was manky and getting it to near new condition... I have you to thank my friend.
Glad it helped.
I’m in the same boat today. Bought an old one just for fun. It was rancid. This video is amazing.
Agree! Excellent and invaluable! Many thanks for posting it. Regards
Thank you so much for the video. Just stripped my 2008 boiler apart and cleaned it. Would have been completely lost without your guide 👍
Thank you! The best of TH-cam. Now I can take machine apart like I’ve been through it before.
Glad to help! Good luck with your strip and rebuild.
After 15 years without a service, WOW ! as per the video plus pump upgrade and a new coffee machine. Gracias amigo!
I have to thank you my friend it took me a while but I finally found time to fix my machine! I couldn't have done it without your excellent tutorial. ☕️ cheers
Always great news to have a working espresso machine.
Glad it helped.
All that effort and no comments! Sacrilege. Thank you for this...It bored the wife rigid but I enjoyed it and found it very useful.
Paul Richards Haha, I'm glad one of you found it useful.
Hopefully she'll enjoy the resulting coffee if you rebuild yours.
Just completed this and found your video invaluable so thank you. Did run into a snag early on where the button panel at the front would not budge. I eventually removed all the plugs (numbered of course) in order to gain access and remove the boiler.
Glad it helped and hope you enjoy your freshly restored Gaggia. They're a great espresso machine.
Thank you so much for this video. I had to strip my Gaggia cause it blocked up and no cleaner worked. With your video it was a breeze. Legend!
Glad it helped.
My Gaggia Classic flow had reduced to a dribble and normal descale didn't help. Waited until I had a good few hours clear and followed this very useful step by step guide. Have a newer Classic (has an earth) but followed the video and the coffee is now flowing once again. Many thanks.
Fantastic news, glad to hear this helped you, the boiler is very small so even a relatively small scale buildup will become noticeable in quantity and brew temp quickly.
If you are in a particularly hard water area you can pump in a solution of citric acid once a month then flush through and it'll greatly extend your strip and service periods, don't forget to brew and discard a shot after to flush through and season, (there's a use for cheap supermarket coffee beans, ;) )
My grandfather taught me that same flat glass trick for resurfacing cylinder heads!
Thanks for the video, huge help.
Best part of the video is the lack of espresso shot pull at the end. After all that hard work you probably went out for a pint. I know I would :)
The tips during assembly, like not to over-tighten brass fittings, was really helpful! The explanation of the different parts was also very informative and appreciated. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful. Enjoy your coffee.
Absolutely fantastic video, thank you for sharing your knowledge. Definitely takes the mystery out of servicing these amazing little machines, and makes buying a used and abused one less of a risk. Just managed to get one for a song, and yes, all the seals are shot, but now I know what to do about it without spending mega-bucks having it serviced by someone else!
Man, this saved my life. My '99 classic running perfectly again. Only have to fix my stuck dispersion plate now but this video was just perfect and answered all my questions! Thanks!
Thanks for the detailed step by step video. Bought a Gaggia classic off eBay at a great price. The selenoid valve was clogged causing zero water flow thru the group head. Did what you showed on this vid and now it works like new👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Fantastic. Glad it helped you.
Good Show ! A very informative class on doing a major, and necessary service on the GC. I especially was impressed by your method of resurfacing the boiler mating surface : sand smooth with wet/dry paper. Any chap/gal with basic mechanical skills and mega patience can perform this rebuild -- thanks to your video. I stress the importance of first buying a metric set of both " spanners" ( wrenches, USA ) and allen wrenches ( ca. $ 13.50 for both at a discount shop ). Cheers from a former Yank, RAF Lakenheath.
Thanks, glad you found it helpful.
Great video!
I brought my machine back to life, I had very little confidence I'd be able to rebuild it :), but it worked like a charm. Thanks mate.
Fantastic, glad I could help. You'll enjoy your coffee more now knowing that you did this yourself.
Brilliantly explained on how to do this job, when I stripped mine down I failed to fill the boiler but now understand it much better thanks
Thanks, glad it was of use to you.
Meant to also say that I have puddle of brew water sitting on top of my coffee puck after extraction, I have descaled, back flushed, and taken the solenoid valve apart for cleaning, after viewing your boiler descale tutorial, my overflow pipe does release quite freely the excess descaler which a you say indicates the solenoid is working correctly, I have also tried different grind sizes, and doses, but still end up with a pool of water on the puck.
I recently upgraded my basket to a 'Nanotech' type which is slightly curved and gives a better extraction, I have stopped tamping and now use a quality leveler which does prevent chanelling.
I read that another subscriber has a group head leak problem.
I am honestly very grateful for this invaluable contribution! The solenoid valve of my gaggia 1998 was clogged and the portafilter came out with such pressure that it bent a part of the metal of the brew head where the portafilter is being put on. I hope that I can repair it after your video! Thank you!
Extremely useful video! And the only one of its kind on TH-cam I can find.
Thank you, glad you found it useful
Thank you for making this video. It is so complete and was answering my questions before I asked them as I stripped the machine. Very rewarding to resurrect my machine which needed a deep service. Brilliant!
Glad it was helpful to you.
Thanks for posting this thorough tutorial, this was exactly what I was looking for.. I found a 2013 Classic unit online & I hope to strip it down & give it a good cleaning before using. Coming from an amazon cheap-o unit I didn't want to jump into a $450 Evo model right out the gate.. we'll se how it goes
I took my gaggia classic completely apart refitted it after descaling and replace all seals and got no steam. After trying everything I followed the circuit diagram and found that somehow I wired the side lower thermostat with the top thermostat and vice versa. Also there was no continuity (beep test) on the solenoid. Tested it physically by putting a screw driver through the coil. Made my wife Happy.
Always good to hear an espresso story with a happy ending. Glad you're running again.
I have the Gaggia Coffee (circa 1989) machine which is nearly identical to this one. I bought it used and opened the boiler to reveal a large amount of mineral build-up. The water in my area is quite hard. After cleaning the machine has been making great coffee for nearly 20 years!
They are great machines for the home user and as good as you need for the odd espresso and Latte.
The most critical process, imho, to guarantee a good start, is 1:48
Before tipping the machine down.
A great lessons learned.
Thank you very much Sir ... I watched your video and I followed each step..My machine running smooth now ..thanks again..
SuperBadr12 That's great, glad to help.
Keep up with the great videos ..I ll be always looking into them ..thanks again
SuperBadr12 Thanks, :)
Great video, now ready to order some spares, some citric, and service my machine. Thanks.
Great stuff. Glad it helped. Enjoy the servicing.
Excellent. I’m nervous but this has motivated me to do the same for my 2003 model which has never been serviced! I do live in a soft water area though so it shouldn’t be too bad.
Good luck with it. The only thing that's really important is to break the threads in the group while it's still installed, the rest is pretty easy.
Great job! Amazing to get a guide like this for this brilliant machine. Keep it up!
Thanks for the feedback, glad it was useful to you.
Thank you so much for creating this video! It's definitely worth learning how to clean the machine ourselves.
Very useful - My Classic has been sat in a cupboard for 7 years - Not sure it's safe to use without a full strip down and clean. . . Thanks again. . .
Antony Johnson As long as it's not been subject to extremes of temperature and moisture out shouldn't be dangerous but that length of time it'll certainly benefit from a strip clean and reseal. The seals will likely be brittle.
Hi. Excellent video although I got a little confused at one or two places. I've done all the cleaning after marking up all the connectors. Put it back together with new o-rings. However, when I tried to fire it up, it is tripping the house RCD. Not sure what I have done wrong. Any thoughts? Does it matter if the Boiler Temperature Sensor cables are the opposite way round - they are the only ones that I'm not happy I marked them clearly enough?
This is going to be my go to video when I take apart my 2012 machine. Thank you…. Hopefully I don’t break it!
Thank you, take it steady and you'll be fine, the most important part is loosening the boiler screws before removing it from the case as they're likely to be the tightest and possibly corroded.
Absolute hero, thank you!
Super helpful! Thank you!
Amazing tutorial.
I am gonna try it now.wish me luck.
Ah 34:10 i’ve heard someone saying 19sec is the time.
That’s what i do.maybe try that.works just fine for me.
That is.
-power button, heat up machine.
-press steam button
-after 19 seconds turn of steam button and brew
Most usefull video I've seen this month. Thanks alot. I'm sold at buying the the Gaggia now.
Glad it helped.
Great video ! I have a question… I own a. Gaggia 1986 espresso machine. Over the weekend I was brewing coffee and the portafilter let go on one end. I quickly realized that the brew head collar had chipped off on one end, making the portafilter impossible to stay in its place. I was wondering if the brew head is the same as the one in your video ? And if I can possibly just replace the collar or is it one whole piece ?
I have a pretty rough Gaggia Classic I keep as a spare machine (main machine is a Wega Mini Nova) the Classic had a malfunction last time it was used a couple of years ago, but I forget now what it didn't do properly. I figure doing what you show on here, plus a new set of seals and o-rings should be a good start, as I think the malfunction was pretty minor anyway. Parts including steam-wand upgrade are on the way, so should be pulling it apart in about a week. I think I might need it soon as the Wega is showing signs of not being at it's best anymore.
Good luck with the rebuild. It's definitely worth looking at the wega too. I love my Wega HX.
Cheers mate. Extremely helpful video. Got my Gaggia working again. Thumbs up to you fella.
Glad you got it sorted, being without a coffee machine isn't good.
Hi, great video and helped me successfully service my machine. Many thanks for taking the time to help others. Mike
It's a pleasure and I'm always glad to help a fellow coffee lover ensure that it keeps flowing. The Gaggia is a great little machine. Glad you found the video helpful.
I'm now getting back into the rebuild of the Wega commercial machine I have a couple of videos on so there'll be an update on that soon. 🙂
Thanks so much, very clear instructions. Brilliant!
Great video! May I ask, could you specify which is the name of the rubber that seals the heater?
it's called a gasket seal, he mentioned it at 21:43
Mad lad. Love the video and i‘m much more confident about fixing my machine now!!
Good luck with it, they're quite straightforward once you get into them.
Thank you so much!!! Excellent video, I learned a lot. Very thorough and thoughtful.
I'm glad it helped you.
Superb video - well-edited, excellent and helpful commentary, and no bloody music - thank you so much!
I was able to completely dismantle, clean and reassemble my Gaggia Classic, which now looks and, most importantly, works good as new.
One puzzling aspect: although all limescale was completely removed, using the official Gaggia descaler (8 quid a bottle, ouch!) there was a hard, crystalline white deposit inside the boiler which wouldn't shift, although no doubt a power tool wire-brush would have helped. Is this possibly an aluminium salt, or oxide?
No matter, all important areas were totally clear and the espressos are perfect, once again. Many thanks!
Thanks for the feedback, glad to hear another espresso machine is saved from the 'I'll look at it later' cupboard. :) Your description sounds more like a buildup of scale rather than oxidisation. As alloy oxidises it tends to be loose and powdery leaving a darker surface underneath, (which is good, acts as a protective inert layer unlike steel which will continue to corrode, so don't brush it back to bright alloy).
I wouldn't worry about it now just check that your extraction temp is good, next time you do it, get yourself some cheap citric acid and let it sit in the boiler longer and keep checking, re pl enish as necessary. The Gaggia stuff is good but as you noted pricey whereas a big bag of citric acid will last ages stored dry and make lots of solution.
Thanks for the further info. I was puzzled that, despite my leaving the boiler filled with neat Gaggia descaler for an hour, there was no bubbling at all, and the deposits remained unchanged.
I had bought some citric acid powder but decided to play safe, having read warnings elsewhere (probably posted by Gaggia!) that it could damage the aluminium.
No problem though - my machine is now performing wonderfully well. I'm left wondering if it scaled up through being left unused for 3 months. Are there any instructions for 'laying up' a Classic?
@@jseagullbha5690 The only thing to do before laying it up for a period is empty the boiler. Leaving it full leaves the water contents longer to deposit things on the boiler sides and if you're in a particularly hard water area it can fur up quickly. Easiest way I've found is to heat up for steaming and purge the steam wand into a container, leave the valve open, empty the water tank and once cooled tip the machine upside down over the sink to get the remnants of water out through the steam wand.
Thanks! Your extreme purging method seems well worth doing, to avoid in absentia scaling - very hard water here, in Sussex Downland!
However, any chance of an airlock being created on refilling? (And if so, how best to tackle that?)
@@jseagullbha5690 that shouldn't be possible unless you have a blockage in your steam wand. The group had extracts at the bottom and the steam at the top.
Best way to check is to open the valve fully and switch all the switches on, water should jet from the wand after the boiler fills to the top.
If not then it's possible some of the scale. (If that's what the fur is) has come loose.
You could try filling the boiler with a citric acid solution and run a few cycles through it and hopefully you won't need to strip it again yet.
Great video thanks. What does it mean if no water comes through?
Thanks, it could mean many things from a blockage somewhere to a failed pump to the plumbing not correctly fitted.
If it was working and has stopped the most likely culprit is the pump. These vibratory pumps are cheap and though they can be stripped they're not designed to be rebuilt.
If it's new to you check if you only have one hose to the water tank that it's on the correct fitting, there are 2, a feed and a return.
Once you know that's correct you can test the pump by pulling the feed to the group and powering it to see if it pumps water, if it does then the blockage is in the group somewhere.
spidiq8 we’ve had it from new, a long time now, anyway I took the ‘sieve’ bit off from where it connects with where the coffee goes and it was filthy with built up dirt. I used some cleaning solution and let the parts soak overnight. Just put it back this morning and it works again, the water comes gushing through. Thanks for the help, but I don’t think I had the knackers to delve deep inside the machine as you did, my toolkit consists of an axe, a hammer and an old butter knife for a screwdriver. A skill passed down to me from my father who tended to fix everything from watches to TV sets with the old hammer. Thanks again.
As a Gaggia Classic owner myself, this was a really useful video.....thanks for making it.....would you be able to put some links to where you purchased the citric acid and replacement gaskets, o-rings etc....Cheers.
V nicee I'm a new learner watch your video it's amazing and help full...
But I'm week in English can I get Hindi language
Unfortunately English is my only language so I'm unable but if anyone can and wants to offer a translation?...
Thanks for the excellent video!
Was doing well, if a little slow, until I got to cracking the 5mm allen bolts on the boiler. Shifted three but the fourth head sheared off. Got the boiler open but need to remove the stub of bolt!
Any tips?
Is the bolt protruding or has it snapped flush?
If protruding, heat the area gently with a blowtorch and use mole grips to unfasten it, the alternative to heat is leaving that bolt soaked in penetrating oil for a while.
Galvanic corrosion between steel and aluminium can really grip though.
If it's flush, similar to the above but you'll need to carefully drill it and use something like an easy out.
@@spidiq8 Protruding. Soaked overnight in WD. Filed off square and a big auld fella shifted it. Back on course! Many thanks and really enjoying the little project.
@@quickrimscb Great stuff.
When you reassemble use a very small amount of graphite grease on the threads and make sure the mating surfaces are flat, use a sheet of wet n dry on a glass plate or other flat surface if need be.
Hi love the vid. I have unscrewed the boiler sense of temperature and noticed some white residue between screw and boiler. is it something put there to avoid galvanic corrosion. do I need to replace it before I reassemble ?
the white residue is also on the steam thermostat.
Simon Nygaard Thanks, glad you liked it. Is it powdery or does it appear slightly viscous? I'm not entirely certain but it could be a thermal paste to aid heat transfer but if powdery more likely it's galvanic corrosion, clean with a nylon brush, (toothbrush e.g. or a scotchbrite pad like a dish sponge and a dot of thermal paste won't hurt if you have any, if not a tiny dot of copper grease but not lots, despite the name it's not the most efficient conductor.
This is a great video, great detail and clarity.
I have a Gaggia Classic which Id like to restore.
Not sure which parts I need but the main symptom is that while the pump noise is normal and the boiler heats, there is no throughput of water only through the frother / steamer. Would anyone know if this means a boiler replacement or some other part. Is it easier to just replace the boiler and pump? Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks
If water is coming through the brew head the boiler is filling so that's good. The fault has to be a blockage between the boiler and wand. It could be the valve or the pipework to the steam wand itself.
A good soak of everything in citric acid solution is a good start after disassembly.
@@spidiq8 Thanks so much for you answer. I'll go through the process you describe in the video. FIngers crossed. I'll let you know the results. Best regards. Gerry
@@spidiq8 Dropping back in to say I've finished the restoration,. Bought a few parts along the way, Group, shower, solenoid and even a pump, So far it all looks good. I wanted to say thanks very much for your help. It would have been impossible without your video. This means I can give up coffee pods too, a positive environmental impact too I hope. Best wishes Gerry
@@gfficomable That's great news, thank you for updating me and long may you enjoy better coffee. Find yourself a local roaster and start grinding fresh and you'll never go back to pods.
this is such a great video, lovely commentary , insightful and informed!
Thank you, very kind.
Great video. Thanks for sharing all this information.
Glad to help. Hope it was useful to you.
Great help. Thanks. Completed my service without a problem after your video! I was a fitter's mate for five years but never saw such a brilliant screwdriver. What make is it and where can you get it? Thanks
Jerry OBrien Thanks, glad it was useful to you, that screwdriver is incredible. Sadly I can't tell you the make or where to get one, I got it cheap from a tool stall on Doncaster car boot years ago because one of the straight blade bits was missing and it was the only there, no packet, makers name, brand or anything but it is a good quality one.
Sod's law! Thanks for the reply :)
Jerry OBrien If I can find anything out about it I'll drop a reply in but it depends how good my googling will be later.
thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you
Many thanks : will do
Hi, this is a great video. I didn’t hear you mention if you also placed the group into the citric acid solution too?
I did yes. Given there could have been scale buildup in the water channels
Of it.
Thanks so much for this. I just bought a used Classic and got scammed with a faulty machine, it probably has calcifications blocking it's valves.
I'll be using this video for the teardown for sure. Hope it's only the valves, also hoping I won't mess this up horribly like I did my previous adventures involving water.. :)
Fingers crossed for you that it's an easy fix, on a positive note. Spares are really available and not too costly.
A good soak in citric acid will not hurt and hopefully you'll be up and running with delicious coffee very soon.
@@spidiq8 citric acid attempted , unfortunately, nada. Time for a full teardown. On the bright side, if I can fix this, I might take the plunge for a more expensive/complex machine because I'll be less worried about service costs. Fun intro into espresso machines for sure...
@@inconspicuous-nobody That's the spirit! You can get some great single boiler heat exchanger machines without going into commercial territory.
Just take the disassembly carefully and take photos along the way, you'll realize it's far easier than you'd think.
Keep me updated. Always interested to hear another's coffee journey.
@@spidiq8 I have my sights set on an Arte di Vittoria BFC Junior. The €380 asking price and the plethora of unpleasant problems (it was a machine previously in commercial use) I could encounter there are the things holding me back, mostly the latter.
The Gaggia goes first though. Thank you for the tips, I'll definitely keep you updated :)
@@inconspicuous-nobody If you can handle the Gaggia. (And I'm sure you can), a commercial machine differs only in the fact that some of the parts are a bit costlier which is just because of the nature of it. However, once running you'll only ever need service items once every couple of years or less perhaps s you won't be using it as heavily as in a commercial environment.
The most important thing is regular flushing if you're in a hard water area or use bottled or filtered water.
Great video this but I still have just drips from the group head after the replacing pump and removing solenoid and dismantling it , which looked like new, I but I cleaned it anyway and checked flow by blowing through it. I would appreciate your advice and an explanation of how the flow works from pump to group and wand as the pump feeds the group so I can't see where the solenoid fits into the flow or how it affects it, especially if it does not actuate. I used to have good flow to waste on switch off but none now.
I received mine with resin and spare fep
hello, great video, tx for sharing. Is the boiler an aluminum boiler ? do you know if citric acid and aluminium is a problem ?
Thanks, glad it helped.
Yes the boiler is aluminium, no the citric acid solution isn't a problem provided you don't leave it sitting for hours unattended, It can eat into the aluminium but only in very highly concentrated measures and left for a long time.
You need to fill it and soak just long enough to loosen and remove the scale.
@@spidiq8 thanks for your reply ! my model is 2002 - the old Gaggia classic. I couldn't find if its aluminium or not...
@@cruzo333 it will be yes. It's only the very recent Phillips models where they changed it I think.
I've had my GC for 3 years and just replaced the group gasket (following a different video.) this one may come in handy down the line. thank you for the time and effort you put into producing this video.
How do you measure the temperature at the group head? do you measure the water after it hits a cup (which will chill the water a bit)? do you heat up a cup and then run water thru the group and check it (doesn't sound like it would be acurate). or do you run the water and put a thermometer right into the water as it runs out? (or some other way?...)
Glad it's useful to you. The easiest way to measure the group head temp I found is to run water as if you were brewing a shot after letting the machine warm up for at the very least 10 min, if you run it through the portafilter ensure you've run some through first as this takes a while to warm and stabilise if not.
Extract it into a Styrofoam cup with a thermometer in. This is crucial as Styrofoam is the most temperature stable material whereas ceramic can cool or hear the water quickly.
This will get you as close as you're able, if you want to get really technical add 0.5 to 1 degree OR using a thermocouple set it right under the group head and before the portafilter.
I think I'll get a Flair or a Robot. We call the crescent wrench an Alabama socket set.
Good name
great video mate
Thanks. Good luck with it if you're doing one.
Hiya. Love the video. Bought a 2006 model. Boiler badly caked up. Just wondering does the bath solution for group head/wand contain citrus acid solution also. Ta
Glad it helped, I don't know about the premade solutions specifically so I can't advise re those other than ensure that you follow the directions on the bottles.
Citric acid solution however works without problem on these, just don't leave the boiler in it for longer than necessary to remove the scale.
Thanks for reply. Same solution in yellow plastic container as in boiler. Got the citrus acid. Thanks again for advise. Take Care.
10:58 is that really necessary? can you plug in the cables in any order on the thermostat?
Yes! For me and I highly recommend it to anyone else who like me isn't an electrical expert and doesn't want to blow themselves up by plugging in the wrong way. 😁
The best video!
Question: if the inside of the boiler has little holes (looks like the aluminium dissolved), should I be concerned?
And if there is quite some chrome plating missing on the inside of the group head, should I replace it?
Thanks for your help in advance!
Kind regards
Michael
I would recommend that you replace the boiler and group head. Definitely the boiler.
@@spidiq8 Thanks a lot for the quick response - much appreciated 😊 Have a nice weekend 👍🏻
Well done video!
Well done on a super job and thorough video. Have you any experience with similar machines? I have a Lelit PL 41 plus that I’m pretty sure needs an acid bath. Tips are welcome.
Sadly not, just the gaggia and my Wega commercial that I rebuilt. The principles are the same however. They use either a single boiler, double boiler or single boiler with heat exchanger.
@@spidiq8 thanks for the reply. I shall follow your method and apply it accordingly. Gonna go slow and careful. Cheers
@@stillnoshadow good luck with it and ask away if you have any problems and I'll help if I can.
@@spidiq8 You have no idea how proud I am managing to use your brilliant tutorial and emptying the boiler of a handful of limescale. AND putting it all back together. The boiler refill worked a treat and it passed all your leak tests. The 1st shot brought tears of pride to my eyes. Can't thank you enough. Next up the Rancillio!
@@stillnoshadow fantastic news and congrats. Enjoy that fresh unrestricted flow and of coffee. It'll taste when better knowing you did it yourself.
Yeh thanks : have tried all that - sometimes pump is very loud and obviously working other times it seems to be quite and not working!!?? Will try some cleaning powder otherwise I might take you up on your very kind offer in Glasgow ...!? Many thanks James
There's a possibility the pump is wearing out, they're a non serviceable vibration pump but aren't too expensive to replace but it could just be a blockage that's restricting it as the noise does vary according to back pressure.
Let me know how it goes.
Very helpful video. Thanks! I watched because I acquired a Gaggia Coffee that has been sitting for probably 15 years now. To do a full maintenance, do you know if anything would be different in the process than what you showed in this video for the Classic?
Is the gaggia coffee a different model? I'm honestly unsure as I've only ever had classic machines. I do know. With the exception of the new Phillips ones they're all much the same.
@@spidiq8 it’s very much like the Classic but I think it was the predecessor and I’m not sure of the differences. My Gaggia Coffee was made in Italy in 1998.
Thank you for this! For some reason, the silicone ring that seals the boiler doesn't fit anymore. Do you know why? It's the same one as was on the machine before I took it apart
Sorry, I couldn't say for sure, I know some types of rubber O rings actually deform and expand once removed and are nigh on impossible to refit, the boiler one however, I wouldn't recommend re using the gasket as it's such a crucial one and holds all the pressure.
@@spidiq8 thanks for replying! I'm having an issue where the steam wand won't produce much steam. It produces some stuff but not very powerful then stops. Do you know what's wrong? I've descaled many times and even stripped the machine and descaled again. But nothing fixes it. What can I do? I have a Gaggia Coffee
Thanks for the fantastic video I'm going to do mine today. I mentioned very little about the pump, does that need descaling or servicing and when do you need to replace it? Thanks again
Thank you, you'll find it's surprisingly easy. The pump is a/serviceable item as they're not designed to be stripped but what you can do is run a tank or two of citric acid solution through first before stripping in 30 or so second bursts.
When would it need replacement? When it suits working completely or are there other scenarios
@@eugeneniemand If it failed to pump and build up adequate pressure, this would be very evident. You could also look up the flow rate which I don't know offhand and pump water through into a measuring beaker for an appropriate length of time to see if it's near enough. I.e. if it's 250ml per minute 30sec worth of operation should yield roughly 125ml of water.
When you sanded down the boiler, do you sand down the inside of it too? I've managed to descale my machine, but now I have this metallic taste to the espresso. I have a gaggia baby, where, the steam valve doesn't come off, so I had to do the job joined onto the machine.
No, being aluminium you don't want to sand the inner, the only part I sanded and the only purpose was the mating surface to ensure it made a good seal on the group head so the gasket didn't leak.
Thanks for your video. I have ordered the "O" rings and plan to do the job at the weekend. Thanks again.
Tony Clarke Fab, it's well worth and satisfying knowing you've serviced your own machine. Glqd it was useful.
Quick tip. If you're doing anything over the sink always, always have the plug holes in the sink plugged. Trying to retrieve a small screw that's gone down the hole can be very frustrating.
Excellent point. Thanks.
Just purchased a second hand Gaggia Classic and a bit gutted as no water comes through the grouphead. Steam and water comes through the wand fine, so could it be the solenoid? Any tips on what I should do here?
It's some kind of blockage to the group head as it's getting to the steam wand.
Quick and easy check would be to unscrew the screen and the dispersal block and see if it flows then. If so, it's the dispersal block, if not something further in.
As it's second hand anyway I'd recommend you strip, descale and clean as per the video then you'll know it's spotless and with fairly regular descaling will be OK for a long time.
Had the same problem, check my video here:
th-cam.com/video/0y0Ok2KdjJc/w-d-xo.html
thankyou so much for this but i am having real trouble taking the solenoid valve apart, any tips?
richard dalton which part? The aluminium bolt that holds the electromagnet or do you mean removing from the boiler?
not to worry, i meant the solneoid itself - how to take it apart to retrieve the springed piston inside and clean it properly. FYI - if any others are struggling with this, mine was incredibly stiff and i ended up screwing the base of the solenoid into a plank of wood and then using a spanner to get it off, thanks anway :)
Very good any chance you could do one on a Franke Flair bean to coffee machine now that would be a real test or nightmare haha Cheers
That's not a machine I have or am familiar with unfortunately. Are you in the UK?
@@spidiq8 Thank you anyway it is a nightmare special screws just to open it their own Screws and Screw driver 🇬🇧
@@Allegedly2right I was going to say if you're in the UK and wanted to send it I'd take a look and see if there's anything I could do. I do have some security screw bits but it depends what type they are.
@@spidiq8 Thank you for the offer I am in Liverpool the screws are their own make as far as I know
Have you found your Gaggia trips the electrics after a full service? Do you have any suggestions please?
Haven't had a problem like that. That sounds like a short if it's tripping your electrics. Check for any loose wires touching the metal of the case and be sure not to touch it whilst plugged in.
@@spidiq8 Thanks for the quick reply and suggestion, I’ll check. Your full service video was very informative. I’ve just finished doing a full strip down descale and seal replacement, with a few minor upgrades, only to connect it all back up to find the electrical fault. I’m also wondering if a cable is damaged, I have an electrician coming for another job and he has agreed to test the wiring for me. All the best.
@@simon.revill Good luck, I'm no electrical expert but suspect it'll be something simple. Please update when you find out but be sure not to try plugging it into a live socket while touching the case meanwhile, being metal could give you a nasty shock.
@@spidiq8 Sure, I’ll let you know. I’ve gone as far as I can, it’s over to the electrician now.
Is this process similar for an old white?
I've never owned or worked on one but Google says it's the predecessor to the classic so it's very likely the internals are the same.
"the original aul' fella's multi-tool" - right on, brother !!!! ;-)
Awesome, thanks
Hi you didn't explain how to remove the solenoid valve etc from the group head before soaking them how do you do this please
I think it just unbolts, It's so long since I did this I don't recall offhand.
I have CCD Indus machine and in that I have a problem that espresso shot is not coming proper like water is not coming properly only coming in drops
Kindly tell me what can be the issue
Sorry, I don't know that machine, if it's a basic thermoblock it could be a pump on the way out, if could also be that your coffee is too fine a grind.
I’ve got a question - if I do a backflush and don’t get any flow back to the reservoir does it mean that: a) the OPV is not working correctly or b) the pressure is set way to high? I don’t have the manometer to check the pressure on the group. Great video, thanks!
I'm assuming you're blocking the group head with either a blind basket or some means of blocking up the standard basket?
If so. You should get water beyond the pressure set flowing back into the reservoir and when you stop expressing the excess should expel from the waste pipe into the tray.
The opv could be blocked or inoperative but yes, the pressure could be set way too high also.
spidiq8 thank You. Yes, I have a blind basket. After switching the pump off, the water comes through the external pipe and to the drip tray, so I assume that the three way solenoid is working fine (also I did the test with open steam valve, switching on the pump - water comes through both the group shower and the steam wand, so I believe the three way solenoid is somehow working fine). As the machine is really old and in pretty bad shape, I don’t think I’m going to spend any big money on replacing parts, but I’ll try to figure out how to measure the pressure and perhaps try to clean the opv. Thanks again!
@@maciejkieek4355 Good luck with it. Hopefully a good strip and clean will sort it.
Thanks mate! Great video ;)
Hey mate, just wondering what kit I should buy online before I attempt this? I don’t want to open my machine up to find all the rubber parts have perished
Most online barista supply stores will sell seal kits or alternatively searching ebay will yield a full replacement seal kit, just search for the Gaggia classic.
This is a fantastic video, but please remove the brew and steam thermostats before you immerse the boiler unit in descaling liquid - they are not supposed to get wet! If you do get them soaked, you'll need to dry them out fully before reassembling, or you will risk short circuiting.
A very good and valid point, thank you for mentioning that.
hi. how old is this machine ?
It looks as 03/2002
Sounds about right.
22:00 . . . the replacement gasket is silicone and not great in high heat applications over the long term. Instead of silicone o-rings/gaskets, you should be using EPDM70 rubbers for these higher heat applications.
The replacement gasket there you see is a Gaggia service approved upgraded boiler specific gasket as supplied in the service kit.
It's been in and in regular use for the last 2 years in that machine and seen another group gasket replacement in that time so I'm fairly confident in thinking it's the correct type but thanks for your feedback.
@@spidiq8 Who ever told you it's Gaggia service approved was not being very precise. These "approvals" refer only to the size, not material. While they may not rupture, if they do they can damage other components inside the machine, which can get costly. But hey, to each their own :-)
@@beanmeup9902 Given the only gasket of that size in a Gaggia is the boiler and given that all the high heat related seals are of the same material and given its worked faultlessly in regular use for 2 years of expressing and steaming I feel secure in the knowledge it's perfectly adequate or above for the job.
It didn't specify the material but I do know colour alone cannot be relied upon so it may well be the EPDM70 you mention. I've fitted viton o rings to fuel injection systems on vehicles and seen them both green and red so it seems there's not a worldwide standard colouring for o rings.
I thank you for your concern and if you have any specific data or examples to share regarding the comments you shared you're welcome to do so.
@@spidiq8 sounds like it's working out and the worst that could happen is a rupture and damage to a component like the Parker but I wouldn't worry too much, even a substandard silicone gasket is likely better than an old EPDM70 or NBR70. The only movement that occurs in this situation, as well, is expansion and contraction against the mated surfaces channels between boiler halves, so it is far less than say in the Parker o-rings where material selection can be more important. Anyway Tip Top video! These types of videos are few and far between and for those in the coffee culture and interested in these fascinating pieces of engineering and tech, your video is a gem and very thorough :-)
@@beanmeup9902 Thanks. It's interesting to know about the different materials and their uses and I'll readily admit I don't know enough about the chemistry which is why I try to source from suppliers who make these kits.
The intention with this video was to demonstrate that the innards of am espresso machine aren't that much of a mystery and the Gaggia being such a well known and loved classic means many owners might drag theirs from the cupboards and get them going again.
Sorry, have worked it out now. Working much better after a bench check that the solenoid is working and the flow through the the bottom piece confirmed using a pippet. Flow still not like that seen in the adverts but good enough until I find a way to check the pressure without a gauge.
Hi, apologies I didn't get back before. Glad things are flowing a bit. I'm assuming that you've descaled the boiler. These are very small and scale up quickly in hard water areas and that causes flow problems.
@@spidiq8 No, I have not as the solenoid was like new, no contamination at all so I thought the boiler could not be at fault. I poked a pit of wire up the two boiler holes the solenoid valve operates with and it went in about 40mm without any resistance.before coming up to something solid If you think I should I will have a go with the boiler and safety valve next week I have put the old pump back and it is as good as the new one so I have a spare pump. Any idea how to check the pressure without a gauge or should one just experiment when everything else has been done?
You were right. Boiler clean fixed it. Works just like new now. Many thanks
my GC brings water back into its tank, but not through the exit for coffee. Could it be the pump that is no longer effective, or is it full of limestone? Furthermore, if I remove the valve from under the head unit, the water flows out freely.
It could be the 3 way valve that's clogged, the over pressure unit.
It could also be limescale build up on the shower head and surrounding area.
I'd recommend a good strip, descale and clean, the holes in the valves are very small and if you live in a hard water area.
@@spidiq8 thanks a lot friend. I will do something about it....
My old Classic shows a certain delay on every other backflush. It does work but sometimes gets stuck, and either takes some time or only comes out when I open the steam valve. Is this a sign for a clogged Solenoid?
That seems to be the case yes. Try a standard descale without stripping first and it might free everything up.
spidiq8 What impact do you think backflushing has? Less or more than the descaling?
Appreciate your help
@@ggmann495 Backflushing is done to clean coffee residue from the internal pipework. There shouldn't be any grounds as the filter mesh is too fine to allow that but there will be residue, the problem is if you're in a hard water area or the machine has come from one scale buildup will quickly clog it.
Backflushing will only flush the internal pipework which draws the excess water from the coffee puck but it's done because the residue will go off eventually and taint the taste.
When you descale first with an unknown history I recommend filling the boiler and overflowing through the wand and let that sit for the required amount of time then drain and using fresh descaler run several backflushing cycles.
The wand can be unbolted and left to sit in solution separately also.
This should clear the bulk out and then once every few months a normal descale will keep it clean.
spidiq8 Went through all your steps! Thanks a lot.
One last question: with the machine ”ON“ but with no other buttons pushed/activated, water or steam comes out of the wand when I turn on the steam knob.
Is this the way it should be?
@@ggmann495 Yes but not excessive amounts. The steam knob simply opens the pipe at the top of the boiler and there'll always be a little residual water and because the boiler is a sealed unit and pressure builds up with the heater on a little will escape.
If you start the brew button water will exit the most open route which is the steam wand and if you operate the steam button it will heat and stream will exit. The knob simply opens and closes the pipe.
What size distributor (how many mm? wide) would one use for this portafilter?
Do you mean the dispersion block or the shower plate?
All Gaggia classic use a standard size regardless so if you search for Gaggia classic+part you'll find what you need.