Amazing video!! Love the format, walk thru the design and also the soldering montages!! Also love how you are so clear about mistakes and make us all sigh with relief 😂 magic stuff Tommy !!
Very impressive! It is common to make mistakes like you have made even after triple checking everything. It is very difficult to see ones own mistakes when checking a design. For years I have had terrible luck with swapping RX and TX to the point that I will put workarounds on the board if there is room.
@@MeeBilt haha! I've been meaning to make a list of things to check before I send files for PCB manufacturing, but I've been so lazy about it myself. 😆
Yeah, tbh I have only tried it once using a Noise Plethora - but I could not get it right. I blame myself rather than the NP; it's totally overkill for the job and I should be able to get something working.... 😅
I'm considering it - it's on my long term "road-map"; so it will not happen in the near future. My plan is to finish all the 909 voices and after that I will look into making them as kits.
Sorry to hear that you have issues with the build. My suggestion is to start by double-checking the component placement, especially the diodes, since they very easy to mount the wrong way around. One thing that is very important with the trigger input is a good square-wave with a fast transition is used, since the trigger pulse is derived from that. This is valid for all 909 modules. A slow rise time will not work.
The binary files used for the ROMs can be found here: github.com/tkilla64/eurorack/tree/main/misc/roms You can extract the data from them or convert it to a header file that you can include in your program - it depends on what you want to do
Cool, to have a ccd microscope for SMD. i have made a C++ app to plot a graph with zooming capability to view the bin and wav files. Making it easier to edit the files for hardware (also 16 bit sounds). 16 bit Wav files are signed, the bin files are not,, they also have a header you need to cut. Maybe better to use AT28C256 they don't need 13.5 volt, seams like a newer part.
@@MeeBilt i wanted to solve this with a magnifier with an arm, but's getting pretty hard to buy things locally and offline. i have some SMD parts, like by pass caps, some CD4000 series and other logic devices you can't buy in through hole. I have pretty much all common resistors values, always buy them in 100 (there where like 4€, now close to 6), replacing these with SMD would cost a fortune.
@@AnalogDude_ I have a small local store where I can get most of the TH or SMD parts that I use in small volumes - but they are quite expensive. But then I need large quantities I get it from LCSC or direct from the supplier
@@MeeBilt the same here, i got a shop around the corner witch has an old stock of CD4000 series, he also has the 4520 there. : ) resistors, transistors, leds and stuff and also more expensive than mouser, but you feel lucky when you have an idea and get the part there. Mouser charges you 20€ for purchases smaller than 50€.
@@MeeBilt You could improve, by using a ADG419 switch instead of using and delete Q72 and Q73, place the chip SPDT switch above R451 and R452 and play something with the variables since the chip has some 50 Ohm or to your likes. The chip takes +15/-15 Volt supply but control pin has to be 5V and secondary Vdd.
Hey Dustin, Short answer: They are made from PCB material, designed in KiCad. Long answer; check out this video: th-cam.com/video/C2qw4Dp-MPQ/w-d-xo.html
Hey,, good luck with the build! Don't hesitate to contact me if you have any questions about sourcing components. Make sure that you get the CD4011UB (unbuffered type) - check out Digikey 296-3184-1-ND . I strongly recommend to use the Winbond W27E257 instead of the ancient UV-erasable EPROM, they are cool but the draw a lot of current and are difficult to get hold of.
Amazing video!! Love the format, walk thru the design and also the soldering montages!! Also love how you are so clear about mistakes and make us all sigh with relief 😂 magic stuff Tommy !!
Thanks Gareth, we're only human after all - and everyone makes mistakes now and then... 😊
Very impressive! It is common to make mistakes like you have made even after triple checking everything. It is very difficult to see ones own mistakes when checking a design. For years I have had terrible luck with swapping RX and TX to the point that I will put workarounds on the board if there is room.
Thanks a lot!
Yeah, it's difficult to review your own designs. The same mistakes keeps slipping through lol
Great video as always, Tommy! Some say that it is essential for pots to be hooked up in reverse with version 1s. I do it all the time. 😆
Haha... Yeah, I feel that I haven't been over-thinking it enough, if I get it right the first time 🙃😅
@@MeeBilt haha! I've been meaning to make a list of things to check before I send files for PCB manufacturing, but I've been so lazy about it myself. 😆
@@benjiaomodular Yeah, I need to do that - but when I finish a layout I'm too eager to get it so I just order it directly... 😋
@@MeeBilt same. 😆
Great job.
The sample hats always sounded better to me than any synthesized hat that I patched up.
Yeah, tbh I have only tried it once using a Noise Plethora - but I could not get it right. I blame myself rather than the NP; it's totally overkill for the job and I should be able to get something working.... 😅
Great video Tommy!
Tack Patrik!
Cool video, I really like the front panel design.
Thanks!
Hello, again a wonderful work, are you planning to sell the pcb and flashed chip in your tindie store?
I'm considering it - it's on my long term "road-map"; so it will not happen in the near future. My plan is to finish all the 909 voices and after that I will look into making them as kits.
i built my hi hat module but the trig in both are not working. only the button can trigger
Sorry to hear that you have issues with the build. My suggestion is to start by double-checking the component placement, especially the diodes, since they very easy to mount the wrong way around.
One thing that is very important with the trigger input is a good square-wave with a fast transition is used, since the trigger pulse is derived from that. This is valid for all 909 modules. A slow rise time will not work.
loved the video and the insights into the design. Will the 909 hat module be available at some point as a kit.? Would love to build one.
Thank you very much 😀
I will look into this at a later stage, but it will need some redesign if I'm going to make a kit for it.
Where could we get the raw samples from? Or array of values that you would read from a 6 bit dac, whatever is clever
The binary files used for the ROMs can be found here:
github.com/tkilla64/eurorack/tree/main/misc/roms
You can extract the data from them or convert it to a header file that you can include in your program - it depends on what you want to do
any chance of updated design that loads samples from sd card?
I have plans to update the design and I'm thinking of using a microcontroller. In that case it would be possible to add a slot for an SD card.
@@MeeBilt would you use the microcontroller do load the rompler? that would be a killer module
Cool, to have a ccd microscope for SMD.
i have made a C++ app to plot a graph with zooming capability to view the bin and wav files.
Making it easier to edit the files for hardware (also 16 bit sounds).
16 bit Wav files are signed, the bin files are not,, they also have a header you need to cut.
Maybe better to use AT28C256 they don't need 13.5 volt, seams like a newer part.
Yeah, I bought the microscope a couple of years ago. I use it for all my SMD builds.
@@MeeBilt i wanted to solve this with a magnifier with an arm, but's getting pretty hard to buy things locally and offline.
i have some SMD parts, like by pass caps, some CD4000 series and other logic devices you can't buy in through hole.
I have pretty much all common resistors values, always buy them in 100 (there where like 4€, now close to 6), replacing these with SMD would cost a fortune.
@@AnalogDude_ I have a small local store where I can get most of the TH or SMD parts that I use in small volumes - but they are quite expensive. But then I need large quantities I get it from LCSC or direct from the supplier
@@MeeBilt the same here, i got a shop around the corner witch has an old stock of CD4000 series, he also has the 4520 there.
: )
resistors, transistors, leds and stuff and also more expensive than mouser, but you feel lucky when you have an idea and get the part there. Mouser charges you 20€ for purchases smaller than 50€.
@@MeeBilt You could improve, by using a ADG419 switch instead of using and delete Q72 and Q73, place the chip SPDT switch above R451 and R452 and play something with the variables since the chip has some 50 Ohm or to your likes. The chip takes +15/-15 Volt supply but control pin has to be 5V and secondary Vdd.
Quick question: How do you make the frontpanels?
Hey Dustin,
Short answer:
They are made from PCB material, designed in KiCad.
Long answer; check out this video:
th-cam.com/video/C2qw4Dp-MPQ/w-d-xo.html
Think I'm going to try this one... Even if it feels a little daunting right now. (never done smt nor programmed a chip.) It just sounds too good.
Hey,, good luck with the build! Don't hesitate to contact me if you have any questions about sourcing components.
Make sure that you get the CD4011UB (unbuffered type) - check out Digikey 296-3184-1-ND . I strongly recommend to use the Winbond W27E257 instead of the ancient UV-erasable EPROM, they are cool but the draw a lot of current and are difficult to get hold of.
@@MeeBilt Just finished the build. After resoldering 2 diodes, everything worked perfectly! Thanks for sharing.
@@jokkemartens8065 Awesome! Good job ! 💪
Nice one! Are you going to put this in your shop? Interesting!
Thanks, Yes I will look into that at some point. I will need to adapt the design a bit before I can make a DIY kit.