Dude that good .GM v8 are the best. Once u replace the lifter with the spring on them with Corvette lifters and delete the fuel management you will never have that problem again. And I guaranteed you will get over 200,000 miles plus out of that engine
My 2019 with 90k miles had a lifter ,cam shaft failure recently. Be put back together currently. G.M. thankfully reduced repair cost from $9 to $6k to repair. Very concerned about future reliability. Video was very helpful from someone who is not a mechanic.
I completely understand. After 6 months of mine running well I decided to move on to a Toyota Sequoia, the last of the V8s th-cam.com/play/PLIjr-uSYDZi4VVY98CUqYZPQMptDhexbN.html&si=kyT1fj8fgBUCN3Rp
@@paulgreen177 I would get the last year of the V8 as I did. The new tundras all need new engines from machining debris Toyota Tundra Playlist th-cam.com/play/PLIjr-uSYDZi57XD9z82F06EWPIA6KBhzI.html
I got tired of driving in M5, so I purchased the Diablo Tuner and disabled the AFM. I also deleted the 180° Trans thermostat and put in the Sure Cool part # STL010 for cooler temps. Also added a PCV oil catch can. I'm at 86,478 miles, only problems I've had was #6 fuel injector, engine thermostat, and vacuum pump. I've done 2 trans flushes and change my engine oil at 4,500-5,000 miles.
I'd suggest moving that oil change up to the 3k mark and keeping it there. Stretching it even to the 4,500 mark is getting my pucker factor going. So unless you have an extra large oil pan or a few extra $K laying around...
Hit 91k and lost cyl 1 AFM lifter. Doing the surecool for the trans, as well as replacing the shitty stock converter --with a CTS-V converter, BTR Stage 2 truck cam, AFM/DOD delete, and a tune. In you want save your trans, at a min, get a tune. HP Tuners, disable AFM, and tune out the AFM trans settings will save your trans.
@@jmackinjersey1 With a good oil you can go much more than 3k miles on oil. I run Amsoil and do extended oil change intervals. I have it tested each oil change to look for wear or fuel dilution in the oil. My lifter failure (AFM) was not oil related, and internals on my engine are clean (no sludge, no varnish, no deposits) and zero wear on my components/bearings. Only damage was the lifter (cam is good), but I taking that problematic system out. (my last 5 oil changes over the last 5 years.. 21, 19, 16.5, 14, 7.5k and 4k into this oil when the lifter failed).
Nicely explained overview. My wife's 2013 Escalade has 184K and I just noticed lifter noise today, it sounds like it is just one, so I hope it will be a relatively inexpensive fix!
No it would be expensive if you caught it early but didn't do no damage.but once you replace them lifters with the spring on them with Corvette lifters and delete the fuel management system you will never have this problem again
Is probably start with turning off the 4cly mode electronically and see how long it goes. Physically deleting it like I show in the videos is a large process with a lot of variables. th-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=keJn2wzhlxD2lxVQ
Do you know about the M5 truck that stops the AFM from operating? Depending on the odo reading, there could be a few other variables that can cause the vibrations. Alignment, Tires and wheels being unbalanced or our of round, front end suspension parts being warn or not properly lubed, axle outer seals, drive line being out of balance or the U-joints going bad, trany not operating properly or needing a simple flush to name a few. One thing I noticed on my truck is that the front lower engine cover that is also an air dam will make your truck feel different if it is not on there, and the faster you go, the more it changes the aerodynamics and can create a vibration. The cover on my engine was cracked and part of it would hang down. I removed it and drove around like that for a few weeks. I noticed a new noise and feel on the highway. So I replaced it and that all went away.
My sis' 2021 Tahoe just had it's second DFM failure and soon going on 3rd engine with less than 130K miles. I grimaced when she said she OK'd 9k for the dealer to replace the engine. She said she's getting a DFM disabler but I told her that will only prolong the next failure. I agreed when she said she will sell it, though I am a "drive til the wheels fall off, then put the wheels back on" type. Told her for same price, she should have gone to an independent shop for a rebuilt (ie Jasper) that will have standard cam and lifters. Recommended next time get on the 2500 platform without DFM. People it's not hard... dirty motor oil does not make a good hydraulic fluid! It's for lubrication.
The elephant in the room...If you disable the AFM, there's no chance of a collapsed lifter. Why? Because it doesn't collapse, aka your engine will last forever.
I picked up a 2020 Silverado in 2019 with $8k off for a Labor Day special. I have put on 158K since the purchase with regular oil changes and your standard parts needing replaced (belts, filters, tires, etc.). I use the truck for hauling, weekend wheeling, don’t seem to shy away from putting the beans to the throttle when I desire, so… I just got the tapping sound I didn’t want to hear, so I’m glad for this video. Once I go through with the cam and valve change, I’ll be in hopes of driving the Trail Boss to 500k. It replaced my previous Silverado that had 449k on it and I’ve had Chevy trucks since the 80’s and don’t hold much grudge against Chevy trying new things.. I’ll let you know once I get to 500k with the 2020. Thanks again for the video!
Awesome. I’m glad it lasted that long. Here is my walkthrough video if you’re interested: DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade 6.2L & 5.3L Replace cam & lifters Part 1 th-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/w-d-xo.html
Great tech talk, I own one of these trucks, no issues, change your oil often and you will never have a problem. It is a hydraulic system (obviously) and the least bit of dirty oil will cause failure. AFM is not the issue.
I do believe the 10,000 mile intervals they are saying adds to the problem for sure. Mine was a regular lifter that failed. I wonder if they went to cheaper non-dod lifters to offset the cost th-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=V841HgRISCvcTkgX
@@granttippens7276 so sad. I’ve had people I know with the same story. Seems it even got worse in 2021+. I believe it’s called dynamic fuel management now with more lifters that collapse
@@granttippens7276 That is unfortunate, hope this was this under warranty? If mine fails, I will get a hot-rod shop to rebuild it with good quality components (No AFM of course)
My Silverado has the full delete afm lifters taken out changed camshaft all the trash afm components are gone and my 5.3 runs amazing and it doesn't burn no oil at all
Do you mind me asking what you.paid in parts and labor? I've got a 2011 escalade I've had since new. 157k and just collapsed lifter on number 4. And yes I had the dreaded valve drop on my Z06... I'm curious to see what a complete delete would cost.
This video is exactly what I've been looking for! I have a 2018 6.2L denali and had the lifters replaced a year ago. Well now the lifters start ticking at 75-80 mph and only in V4 mode, and only when my foot is slightly on the gas. If it pops back into V8 the tick goes away. Do you think it's just my lifters again or could it be my camshaft too? Id think the tick would be constant if the camshaft is damaged. Only 2k miles until my extended warranty is up 🫠
I would definitely claim it for the warranty before it’s your problem, but the range disabler that keeps it in V8 mode would be a good idea. I’ll post one below from my Amazon affiliate link. If the noise isn’t there in v8 mode the cam may still be okay, but who knows if it’s being damaged each time. For the meantime, I believe putting it in manual mode and in 6th gear may keep the 4 cylinder mode from activating. www.amazon.com/dp/B0CTJNM7XQ/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_FRECHW9NBNZT0K6SMG35?linkCode=ml2&tag=2004047-20
Always a chevy guy, but was awakened when the dealer had to replace 8 lifters in my 21 Silverado at just 16k miles. What about the other 8? I'm now wondering if the cam is damaged and metal floating around in my engine. No longer trusting I'll ever make it to higher mileage. Considering selling my truck or having a rebuild with conventional lifters, but then there is the emmission test problem.... GM has known about this, and I"m just discusted.... Basically we can just thank the government.
@@TheDbrewer31 The first shop that diagnosed my issue quoted $7k for a cam and lifter rebuild only. He also quoted $13k for a Jasper, and $14k for a GM original. A friend recommended a shop In the city, they quoted $9k for the Jasper , thus I went that route. I now have a 36 month, 100k parts and labor warranty. If I were 20 years younger,I may have attempted the repair my self. And the other reason for replacement, forgot to mention, around 52k miles, my oil pump failed, thankfully I had that repaired under warranty. I was skeptical on what else would happen if we only repaired the cam and lifters. The cam was damaged by the stuck lifter.
@bobart1790 I'm getting mine done (full dod delete) for roughly $3000.00 or slightly over. I ordered the GM parts (GM cam and GM lifters) kit on AMS Racing. Kit, with tuner, and the 3 extra recommended add ons, was around the $1600.00 mark. Then I had to get the exhaust manifold gaskets and intake gaskets, along with a new timing belt tensioner for about $ 170.00 more. A mechanic, that's friends with me is doing the labor for roughly $1000.00. I'm sure I'll need a few odds and ends to get during the process, thus the reason I figured in the $3000.00. I'm sure I'll definitely need a new push rod or 2
Now that everyone understands how these lifters work and how they get stuck in the collapsed position maybe people will quit arguing that adding a range disabler or disabling AFM will greatly decrease this type of lifter event because you are keeping it from collapsing in the first place.👍
Hmm but if there is no chance of a "missed time switching event" aka lifters would be active all the time with a disabler, keeping the engine oil changed regularly, the "probabilities" of a collapsed lifter, or locking pins wearing out, is lessened no? Basically it's about "probabilities" being decreased. In that sense, yes, stop arguing. AFM disablers DO work.
@@operationsword9457 yeah, will the disablers help or not??? have an expensive 2023 Yukon xl denali that I would like to keep a longtime engine problem free:)
It's criminal that these lifters and cams go bad because of a crap design for the sake of an extra 3 mpg. Ends up costing us a lot of money to have it fixed/replaced. GM should be held accountable
Great video Quick question I have caprice ppv 2012 v8 It has now failed lifters due to the filter being blocked by sludge If i replace the failed / damaged lifters and get a good used condition cam Is the engine save able ? Will it work for some time or i need to replace everything as stated in your video I'll also be changing the oil pump
Cams are not very expensive. I would replace them if you need to get that far into the engine. If you only need new lifters and the cam is okay on inspection, just change the lifters. It depends on what you’re trying to do. I had to change the cam as well with deleting the collapsible lifters. If you see a lot of metal shavings you’ll want it completely torn down and cleaned out or it could ruin the engine later
@dannyjohnsonsgarage as per my knowledge the process of deleting the dod includes changing the cam and lifters and valley plate but is it possible just to change the lifters to non collapsible ones? Or dod is the only reliable solution? @@dannyjohnsonsgarage
Any update on how its going since you deleted yours, dependability much better and no issues hopefully. I am about to do mine and hope this will be a good longterm fix!
Once u replace the lifter with the spring on them with Corvette lifters and delete the fuel management system you will never have this problem again. And I guaranteed you will get 200,000 miles plus out of that v8
You can try to unstick it with the other tactics from other videos, but it may happen again. You’ll need to remove the head to get the lifter out and you’ll have to replace it with another dod lifter or go deeper to replace the cam for the non dod one th-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=f9OfUAL6XunVgtsV
Danny, I own a 2015 Yukon with the 6.2 liter hooked to a 5 speed automatic. Within the first 80,000 miles I had two lifters failures resulting in the last one to have the cam replaced. Since then I have been running it in manual 5 mode resulting in zero lifter issues. I have 130,000 miles on it now. Is what I am doing a good long term resolution?
As long as you keep your oil, change, religiously and clean, the systems are super susceptible to any amount of sludge or carbon buildup. Keep your oil changed every three or 4000 miles and you should be fine running it in manual mode.
@@MacdoNaldi67 I wonder about this, because I have a 2010 5.3, and so far it hasn't failed. I am not the original owner, so I don't know if the first owner did anything to the AFM. However, I am at 109k, but I also use the M5 for now. I always change the oil at 3k, and now I am using Valvoline restore and protect.
@@jmackinjersey1you notice how in the video he says the lifter gets stuck in the collapsed position? Will adding a range disabler or tuning out AFM will greatly decrease your chances of having an issue because the lifters won't collapse in the first place this way they don't get stuck the pins don't wear out.
The 2015+ Yukons may have been a different story. I didn’t have problems with dod, changed the oil sooner than later but a regular lifter failed and it has been common with other from what I’ve seen
can i just install all new short regular lifters and disable it with a tune and leave the stock afm cam so i wont have any lifter collapse in the future right now while my engine working fine since i have the engine outside the engine bay ?
So instead of rebuilding the 5.3 from my 08 Suburban, I decided to pull it and put in another motor. Found a lower mileage 5.3 from an express, since the 1500 vans didn't have the dod program. I already had a guy called lt1 swap or something remove the program from the computer. Question, the valley covers are different, since the express doesn't have the solenoids. Should I use the cover from the Suburban since it has a plug that goes from the solenoids to the computer, or will it matter at all since the program is deactivated?
I left mine all there but turned off, so I think either will work as long as the dod is turned off (or set to come on at an impossible rpm like 12,000 rpm). As I understand for the oil pump side, you just want to make sure the oil pump isn’t trying to send more psi thinking it’s still active.
You notice how he said the lifters get stuck in the collapsed position? If you disable delete or add a range disabler the lifters don't collapse greatly decreasing your chance of having an issue.
@@johnsmith3735 Yes, its all about probabilities. They greatly decrease with a module or tune. Less likely a timing event or worn out locking pins as they are now not used at all. It makes sense.
Unfortunately, the government forces auto manufacturers to get better fuel efficiency by a certain percentage every year. This is what's truly screwing the customer.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Guide to the abbreviations: Dead Fkn Machine, Awful Fkn Machine, Dead on Demand, Very Very Terrible, EcoBOOM. What has been seen cannot be unseen. The only tech I have hope they continue to perfect is VVT type tech, because once they get it right, the PCM can shift the cam specs (lift, duration, lobe separation angle, etc) from a fuel sipping mild cam to a beast at WOT. I'm no lithium fanboy, but I would rather they go to a proven more efficient hybrid setup so the engine can operate at a near constant RPM (making deactivation, DFM, and VVT unnecessary) than keep at this dead end of cylinder deactivation.
@@heribertonavarro7453 yes. That’s actually why this is apart for mine. A regular lifter went bad at 96,000 miles: DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade 6.2L & 5.3L Replace cam & lifters Part 1 th-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/w-d-xo.html
My 2015 escalade lifters keep getting stuck. First it was lifter #1 then lifter #2 got stuck. Mechanic fixed it. while he was testing the car lifter #4 got stuck after getting done with that lifter 1 got stuck again. It’s been mess changed all lifters and polished the block 🤦♂️ still same issue we even replaced the valve lifter manifold
There are delete kits to give you all regular lifters but it requires a tune. DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade 6.2L & 5.3L Replace cam & lifters Part 1 th-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/w-d-xo.html
Whats the fuel economy difference with and without the delete? I have the 6.2 and want to delete but my fuel savings is amazing made it from jasper alberta to vancouver BC with one tank of fuel! Got 7.6L/100km
@@DavidRamirez-kv9xc I usually do a seafoam (1oz to a quart) and idle it for about an hour before draining it. It seems to clean better on all my rigs.
Unfortunately, or fortunately, depending on how you look at it, there is not one set amount of miles that make these crazy things happen. I've seen it happen on new trucks with less than 3k or trucks with over 150k or even 200k never have an issue. There is no telling when or even if it will happen.
Mine was a regular lifter that failed, but possibly due to the active fuel management/displacement on demand. During the repair, the dod/afm was replaced with a regular GM camshaft that does not utilize the afm/dod because that system is prone to failures: DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade 6.2L & 5.3L Replace cam & lifters Part 1 th-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/w-d-xo.html
Never did hear why just shutting it off with a tune would not fix this situation. No Oil being sent to from the VLOM means no activation and miss time issue's. Lifters stay in "locked out' state and cant compress. Did i miss something?
It will keep the timing events from happening, and if the lifters don’t have a lot of milage on them, the pins may not be worn down and the lifter shouldn’t collapse. Unfortunately, even in my case, the regular lifter is what failed. It’s just too many variables with this setup. I would definitely turn it off and just see what happens
185K on my '08 1500. I turned my AFM off I think probably around 2015. I change my oil every 4K. Just recently noticed a tapping at idle when the engine was warmed up. I bumped the throttle and it went away. 5 min later while still idling it started taping again. Again bumped throttle and it went away. Yesterday I heard it when cruising slowing through town, I would bump the throttle but it didn't go away for about 3 minutes. Not sure if it's the lifters or timing chain or what.. it's intermittent though. People are saying no joke a quart of ATF in the oil over time and maybe multiple oil changes can clean out the lifters to where this goes away. They swear it works. I don't know, I think I'm going to try it as my other option is spending thousands on deleting. Sounds like it's all the same parts to replace if there's an actual failure right?
Also it does no good to replace them if you put the same part back in which will fail again. A lifter can easily last 300k miles. Just look at Toyotas 5.7. So what lifter do we use to delete the AFM and allow this great engine to run 300k without issue is the big question and also the part number?
You use the LS7 solid lifters but you need to buy the kit that also comes with the non-dod cam. Brian Tooley racing sells the kits th-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=rmOQT7gr2nAKBgx6
Careful with the amazon afm disablers. The reviews have tons of people complaining of problems with unrelated things going wrong, only trust the" range "brand disabler
Besides a delete, what methods can be done to reduce the odds of a lifter failure? Frequent oil changes?...Driving in L9 or L7 depending on your transmission?...
@@DavidRamirez-kv9xc I just started using Valvoline Restore and Protect to clean the internal parts of my engine. I am hoping this will keep my small oil passages clean. I change my oil at 3k all the time as well as got my transmission flushed at around 80k miles. Also keep your coolant topped off and flushed every 40k miles or so and use distilled water if you buy the concentrate and need to mix it.
I'm not sure why people can't understand this. Most of the time the lifter gets stuck in the collapsed position if you add a AFM disabler like range Technologies you are keeping the lifter from collapsing in the first place. This will greatly reduce you having an issue because the lifter is not collapsing.🤯🤯🤯
@@johnsmith3735 Yeah driving in L7 or L9 depending on if you have an 8-speed or 10-speed disables the AFM/DFM and the engine is running in 8-cylinder mode all the time.
I have a full playlist of repairs you shouldn’t have to worry about with such an expensive vehicle. The lifters, transmission harness, trim panels, so many things Yukon / Tahoe / Suburban / Escalade Owner’s manual Bells & whistles th-cam.com/play/PLIjr-uSYDZi7J7EQ1ErTn1Yzi6ET_3Ssr.html
I was able to do it in the vehicle, but the manual calls to remove it: DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade 6.2L & 5.3L Replace cam & lifters Part 1 th-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/w-d-xo.html
@@itscoldinwinter1 yeah, that’s why I went with the 2021 with the V8. I trust Toyota the most but I think they are bound to have issues with the V6 TT being new and more complicated
Chevy was not selling as many trucks as Ford for almost 40 years. What happened is the trucks were lasting to long and people were keeping them so they had to make something fail and chose the lifters. When doing this job delete the AFM lifters with normal lifters if you can and those normal lifters should easily last 300k.
I think it also had a lot to do with the bailout and how GM had to meet better fuel economy under its new stipulations. Being harder to do, yes, they probably had a target reliability of just what warranty will cover. They are likely making a lot of money doing repairs out of warranty
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Agree but why not just add less fuel using smaller injectors? The AFM thing is not a good deal. It’s a huge safety issue and could allow you to get hit and killed by a car coming at you
@@zackk695 i think they should have just shut off fuel for that cylinder and allowed it to keep opening and closing the valves. They do have direct injection which uses less fuel but causes other gunk problems Direct injection vs Port injection, why direct injection is bad for your engine, what it looks like th-cam.com/video/Op2nSHkoD1Q/w-d-xo.html
If a lifter sticks and you're 20 plus miles from home, you drive it home, can a total dod delete still be an option? Or has the drive home taken out the motor beyond repair?
It would be better than my lifter failing and putting metal in the engine as far as that goes, but it may have a bent pushrod if it had a mid timing event, which can still be repaired in most cases. Once you have it apart you can see what the best option is. Sometimes a new engine to drop on is less risk and hassle th-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=b9wEDgZegqqzFsd5
I just spent $14k on an entire new motor for my 2019 Trailboss. I got the dod deleted motor with the Diablo tuner. Sucks but it is a common GM issue they dont care about
I just got myself a 2019 Yukon,your playlist has come in handy as a first time owner,never delete it 🙌🏽
Dude that good .GM v8 are the best. Once u replace the lifter with the spring on them with Corvette lifters and delete the fuel management you will never have that problem again. And I guaranteed you will get over 200,000 miles plus out of that engine
My 2019 with 90k miles had a lifter ,cam shaft failure recently. Be put back together currently. G.M. thankfully reduced repair cost from $9 to $6k to repair. Very concerned about future reliability. Video was very helpful from someone who is not a mechanic.
I completely understand. After 6 months of mine running well I decided to move on to a Toyota Sequoia, the last of the V8s th-cam.com/play/PLIjr-uSYDZi4VVY98CUqYZPQMptDhexbN.html&si=kyT1fj8fgBUCN3Rp
Thinking about trading my Silverado for tundra.
@@paulgreen177 I would get the last year of the V8 as I did. The new tundras all need new engines from machining debris Toyota Tundra Playlist
th-cam.com/play/PLIjr-uSYDZi57XD9z82F06EWPIA6KBhzI.html
I got tired of driving in M5, so I purchased the Diablo Tuner and disabled the AFM. I also deleted the 180° Trans thermostat and put in the Sure Cool part # STL010 for cooler temps. Also added a PCV oil catch can. I'm at 86,478 miles, only problems I've had was #6 fuel injector, engine thermostat, and vacuum pump. I've done 2 trans flushes and change my engine oil at 4,500-5,000 miles.
I'd suggest moving that oil change up to the 3k mark and keeping it there. Stretching it even to the 4,500 mark is getting my pucker factor going. So unless you have an extra large oil pan or a few extra $K laying around...
Hit 91k and lost cyl 1 AFM lifter. Doing the surecool for the trans, as well as replacing the shitty stock converter --with a CTS-V converter, BTR Stage 2 truck cam, AFM/DOD delete, and a tune. In you want save your trans, at a min, get a tune. HP Tuners, disable AFM, and tune out the AFM trans settings will save your trans.
@@jmackinjersey1 With a good oil you can go much more than 3k miles on oil. I run Amsoil and do extended oil change intervals. I have it tested each oil change to look for wear or fuel dilution in the oil. My lifter failure (AFM) was not oil related, and internals on my engine are clean (no sludge, no varnish, no deposits) and zero wear on my components/bearings. Only damage was the lifter (cam is good), but I taking that problematic system out. (my last 5 oil changes over the last 5 years.. 21, 19, 16.5, 14, 7.5k and 4k into this oil when the lifter failed).
Nicely explained overview. My wife's 2013 Escalade has 184K and I just noticed lifter noise today, it sounds like it is just one, so I hope it will be a relatively inexpensive fix!
No it would be expensive if you caught it early but didn't do no damage.but once you replace them lifters with the spring on them with Corvette lifters and delete the fuel management system you will never have this problem again
Thank you Danny for your effort, I have 5.3L Yukon 2017 and I’m experiencing a shaky ride at 40-50km speed when switching from v8 to v4!
Is probably start with turning off the 4cly mode electronically and see how long it goes. Physically deleting it like I show in the videos is a large process with a lot of variables. th-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=keJn2wzhlxD2lxVQ
Do you know about the M5 truck that stops the AFM from operating? Depending on the odo reading, there could be a few other variables that can cause the vibrations. Alignment, Tires and wheels being unbalanced or our of round, front end suspension parts being warn or not properly lubed, axle outer seals, drive line being out of balance or the U-joints going bad, trany not operating properly or needing a simple flush to name a few. One thing I noticed on my truck is that the front lower engine cover that is also an air dam will make your truck feel different if it is not on there, and the faster you go, the more it changes the aerodynamics and can create a vibration.
The cover on my engine was cracked and part of it would hang down. I removed it and drove around like that for a few weeks. I noticed a new noise and feel on the highway. So I replaced it and that all went away.
Did you find out what it was? My truck does the same thing
Thank You for doing this, Danny. I feel more at ease while enjoying my '16 Suburban. I replace the oil and filter myself every 3000 miles.
That is definitely a good idea
My sis' 2021 Tahoe just had it's second DFM failure and soon going on 3rd engine with less than 130K miles. I grimaced when she said she OK'd 9k for the dealer to replace the engine. She said she's getting a DFM disabler but I told her that will only prolong the next failure. I agreed when she said she will sell it, though I am a "drive til the wheels fall off, then put the wheels back on" type. Told her for same price, she should have gone to an independent shop for a rebuilt (ie Jasper) that will have standard cam and lifters. Recommended next time get on the 2500 platform without DFM. People it's not hard... dirty motor oil does not make a good hydraulic fluid! It's for lubrication.
The elephant in the room...If you disable the AFM, there's no chance of a collapsed lifter. Why? Because it doesn't collapse, aka your engine will last forever.
@@operationsword9457if only. Sadly plenty of people still nuking lifters and cams even with it disabled.
I picked up a 2020 Silverado in 2019 with $8k off for a Labor Day special. I have put on 158K since the purchase with regular oil changes and your standard parts needing replaced (belts, filters, tires, etc.). I use the truck for hauling, weekend wheeling, don’t seem to shy away from putting the beans to the throttle when I desire, so… I just got the tapping sound I didn’t want to hear, so I’m glad for this video. Once I go through with the cam and valve change, I’ll be in hopes of driving the Trail Boss to 500k. It replaced my previous Silverado that had 449k on it and I’ve had Chevy trucks since the 80’s and don’t hold much grudge against Chevy trying new things.. I’ll let you know once I get to 500k with the 2020. Thanks again for the video!
Awesome. I’m glad it lasted that long. Here is my walkthrough video if you’re interested:
DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade 6.2L & 5.3L Replace cam & lifters Part 1
th-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/w-d-xo.html
The only reason GM does this bullshit is because of stupid regulations. Not because GM is trying new stuff.
Great tech talk, I own one of these trucks, no issues, change your oil often and you will never have a problem. It is a hydraulic system (obviously) and the least bit of dirty oil will cause failure. AFM is not the issue.
I do believe the 10,000 mile intervals they are saying adds to the problem for sure. Mine was a regular lifter that failed. I wonder if they went to cheaper non-dod lifters to offset the cost
th-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=V841HgRISCvcTkgX
One of my buddies got one and lifters failed within 3k miles the first time. 2nd time 10k miles. He's had 3 engines in 22k miles
@@granttippens7276 so sad. I’ve had people I know with the same story. Seems it even got worse in 2021+. I believe it’s called dynamic fuel management now with more lifters that collapse
Yeah. Im getting the dfm delete on my 19 6.2l done right now. I dont want to deal with lifters failing
@@granttippens7276 That is unfortunate, hope this was this under warranty? If mine fails, I will get a hot-rod shop to rebuild it with good quality components (No AFM of course)
My Silverado has the full delete afm lifters taken out changed camshaft all the trash afm components are gone and my 5.3 runs amazing and it doesn't burn no oil at all
That's right
This is how you do it.
Do you mind me asking what you.paid in parts and labor?
I've got a 2011 escalade I've had since new. 157k and just collapsed lifter on number 4.
And yes I had the dreaded valve drop on my Z06...
I'm curious to see what a complete delete would cost.
@@VETTEDZ06 2800 dollars in south Louisiana
@@DustinKeating-yk3vq thank you for the info... thats alot better than here in Phoenix AZ.
This video is exactly what I've been looking for! I have a 2018 6.2L denali and had the lifters replaced a year ago. Well now the lifters start ticking at 75-80 mph and only in V4 mode, and only when my foot is slightly on the gas. If it pops back into V8 the tick goes away. Do you think it's just my lifters again or could it be my camshaft too? Id think the tick would be constant if the camshaft is damaged. Only 2k miles until my extended warranty is up 🫠
I would definitely claim it for the warranty before it’s your problem, but the range disabler that keeps it in V8 mode would be a good idea. I’ll post one below from my Amazon affiliate link. If the noise isn’t there in v8 mode the cam may still be okay, but who knows if it’s being damaged each time. For the meantime, I believe putting it in manual mode and in 6th gear may keep the 4 cylinder mode from activating. www.amazon.com/dp/B0CTJNM7XQ/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_FRECHW9NBNZT0K6SMG35?linkCode=ml2&tag=2004047-20
Always a chevy guy, but was awakened when the dealer had to replace 8 lifters in my 21 Silverado at just 16k miles. What about the other 8? I'm now wondering if the cam is damaged and metal floating around in my engine. No longer trusting I'll ever make it to higher mileage. Considering selling my truck or having a rebuild with conventional lifters, but then there is the emmission test problem.... GM has known about this, and I"m just discusted.... Basically we can just thank the government.
My 2015 5.3L just failed, replaced with a Jasper engine with AFM delete. Love the new motor.
@bobart1790 why did you replace the engine, rather than just having the dod delete done? Higher mileage and new engine the vest option in your case?
@@TheDbrewer31 The first shop that diagnosed my issue quoted $7k for a cam and lifter rebuild only. He also quoted $13k for a Jasper, and $14k for a GM original. A friend recommended a shop In the city, they quoted $9k for the Jasper , thus I went that route. I now have a 36 month, 100k parts and labor warranty. If I were 20 years younger,I may have attempted the repair my self. And the other reason for replacement, forgot to mention, around 52k miles, my oil pump failed, thankfully I had that repaired under warranty. I was skeptical on what else would happen if we only repaired the cam and lifters. The cam was damaged by the stuck lifter.
@bobart1790 I'm getting mine done (full dod delete) for roughly $3000.00 or slightly over. I ordered the GM parts (GM cam and GM lifters) kit on AMS Racing. Kit, with tuner, and the 3 extra recommended add ons, was around the $1600.00 mark. Then I had to get the exhaust manifold gaskets and intake gaskets, along with a new timing belt tensioner for about $ 170.00 more. A mechanic, that's friends with me is doing the labor for roughly $1000.00. I'm sure I'll need a few odds and ends to get during the process, thus the reason I figured in the $3000.00. I'm sure I'll definitely need a new push rod or 2
The government is not an excuse for making junk.
Now that everyone understands how these lifters work and how they get stuck in the collapsed position maybe people will quit arguing that adding a range disabler or disabling AFM will greatly decrease this type of lifter event because you are keeping it from collapsing in the first place.👍
Hmm but if there is no chance of a "missed time switching event" aka lifters would be active all the time with a disabler, keeping the engine oil changed regularly, the "probabilities" of a collapsed lifter, or locking pins wearing out, is lessened no? Basically it's about "probabilities" being decreased. In that sense, yes, stop arguing. AFM disablers DO work.
@@operationsword9457 yeah, will the disablers help or not??? have an expensive 2023 Yukon xl denali that I would like to keep a longtime engine problem free:)
Best solution to my pop GMC sierra is traded in for a 2017 Tundra TRD.
I have a 2021 tundra and 2021 sequoia now.
Toyota Tundra Playlist
th-cam.com/play/PLIjr-uSYDZi57XD9z82F06EWPIA6KBhzI.html
Thanks for the heads up
It's criminal that these lifters and cams go bad because of a crap design for the sake of an extra 3 mpg. Ends up costing us a lot of money to have it fixed/replaced. GM should be held accountable
I have the plug in disabler, and the mpg didn't get any worse in constant V8 mode.
Great video
Quick question
I have caprice ppv 2012 v8
It has now failed lifters due to the filter being blocked by sludge
If i replace the failed / damaged lifters and get a good used condition cam
Is the engine save able ?
Will it work for some time or i need to replace everything as stated in your video
I'll also be changing the oil pump
Cams are not very expensive. I would replace them if you need to get that far into the engine. If you only need new lifters and the cam is okay on inspection, just change the lifters. It depends on what you’re trying to do. I had to change the cam as well with deleting the collapsible lifters. If you see a lot of metal shavings you’ll want it completely torn down and cleaned out or it could ruin the engine later
@dannyjohnsonsgarage as per my knowledge the process of deleting the dod includes changing the cam and lifters and valley plate but is it possible just to change the lifters to non collapsible ones? Or dod is the only reliable solution? @@dannyjohnsonsgarage
@ the cam is different than the dod cam so it must also be changed as far as I know
Any update on how its going since you deleted yours, dependability much better and no issues hopefully. I am about to do mine and hope this will be a good longterm fix!
Good so far: DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade 6.2L & 5.3L Replace cam & lifters Part 1
th-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/w-d-xo.html
This just happened to my 21 Silverado as well. Same fix same concerns
what do u think about deleting the afm? i have the same truck but i have the 2.7 turbo. im thinking of deleting it? what do u think
Once u replace the lifter with the spring on them with Corvette lifters and delete the fuel management system you will never have this problem again. And I guaranteed you will get 200,000 miles plus out of that v8
i have a 2015 6.2. stuck lifter on #7. should I get the tool to try and unstick? replace the lifter with a non collapsable lifter?
You can try to unstick it with the other tactics from other videos, but it may happen again. You’ll need to remove the head to get the lifter out and you’ll have to replace it with another dod lifter or go deeper to replace the cam for the non dod one th-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=f9OfUAL6XunVgtsV
Danny, I own a 2015 Yukon with the 6.2 liter hooked to a 5 speed automatic. Within the first 80,000 miles I had two lifters failures resulting in the last one to have the cam replaced. Since then I have been running it in manual 5 mode resulting in zero lifter issues. I have 130,000 miles on it now. Is what I am doing a good long term resolution?
As long as you keep your oil, change, religiously and clean, the systems are super susceptible to any amount of sludge or carbon buildup. Keep your oil changed every three or 4000 miles and you should be fine running it in manual mode.
@@MacdoNaldi67 I wonder about this, because I have a 2010 5.3, and so far it hasn't failed. I am not the original owner, so I don't know if the first owner did anything to the AFM. However, I am at 109k, but I also use the M5 for now. I always change the oil at 3k, and now I am using Valvoline restore and protect.
@@jmackinjersey1you notice how in the video he says the lifter gets stuck in the collapsed position? Will adding a range disabler or tuning out AFM will greatly decrease your chances of having an issue because the lifters won't collapse in the first place this way they don't get stuck the pins don't wear out.
My 07 suburban LC9 5.3 had 240k miles on the original dod before i removed it for a 6.2. Its all about how it was maintained, proper oil weight etc.
The 2015+ Yukons may have been a different story. I didn’t have problems with dod, changed the oil sooner than later but a regular lifter failed and it has been common with other from what I’ve seen
can i just install all new short regular lifters and disable it with a tune and leave the stock afm cam so i wont have any lifter collapse in the future right now while my engine working fine since i have the engine outside the engine bay ?
My understanding is the cam is in fact different and must be replaced. th-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=SMwntH3JEAnj0E_e
So instead of rebuilding the 5.3 from my 08 Suburban, I decided to pull it and put in another motor. Found a lower mileage 5.3 from an express, since the 1500 vans didn't have the dod program. I already had a guy called lt1 swap or something remove the program from the computer. Question, the valley covers are different, since the express doesn't have the solenoids. Should I use the cover from the Suburban since it has a plug that goes from the solenoids to the computer, or will it matter at all since the program is deactivated?
I left mine all there but turned off, so I think either will work as long as the dod is turned off (or set to come on at an impossible rpm like 12,000 rpm). As I understand for the oil pump side, you just want to make sure the oil pump isn’t trying to send more psi thinking it’s still active.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage how would you do that lol, on the oil pump?
Do you recommend disabling the afm before this happens , by module or tuner?
Yes. It may keep a timing event failure from happening. I’ve only seen 1-2 miles per gallon difference in v8 mode constantly as well
You notice how he said the lifters get stuck in the collapsed position? If you disable delete or add a range disabler the lifters don't collapse greatly decreasing your chance of having an issue.
@@johnsmith3735 Yes, its all about probabilities. They greatly decrease with a module or tune. Less likely a timing event or worn out locking pins as they are now not used at all. It makes sense.
GM just cant seem to get this fixed.
I think they’ve added even more cylinders with dynamic fuel management
Unfortunately, the government forces auto manufacturers to get better fuel efficiency by a certain percentage every year. This is what's truly screwing the customer.
@@TheDbrewer31and the EPA!
Looks to me like the system is designed to fail under normal use. That and transmission issues are making GM look pretty sketchy, no more for me.
Even the dod system can ruin the transmission as it changes to 4 cylinder mode from what I’m hearing
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Guide to the abbreviations: Dead Fkn Machine, Awful Fkn Machine, Dead on Demand, Very Very Terrible, EcoBOOM. What has been seen cannot be unseen. The only tech I have hope they continue to perfect is VVT type tech, because once they get it right, the PCM can shift the cam specs (lift, duration, lobe separation angle, etc) from a fuel sipping mild cam to a beast at WOT. I'm no lithium fanboy, but I would rather they go to a proven more efficient hybrid setup so the engine can operate at a near constant RPM (making deactivation, DFM, and VVT unnecessary) than keep at this dead end of cylinder deactivation.
Can the short lifter without the spring go bad ??
@@heribertonavarro7453 yes. That’s actually why this is apart for mine. A regular lifter went bad at 96,000 miles: DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade 6.2L & 5.3L Replace cam & lifters Part 1
th-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/w-d-xo.html
My 2015 escalade lifters keep getting stuck. First it was lifter #1 then lifter #2 got stuck. Mechanic fixed it. while he was testing the car lifter #4 got stuck after getting done with that lifter 1 got stuck again. It’s been mess changed all lifters and polished the block 🤦♂️ still same issue we even replaced the valve lifter manifold
Plus the cam is in perfect shape and oil pressure is 170-200 kpa while idle. If anyone got any suggestions please share
There are delete kits to give you all regular lifters but it requires a tune. DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade 6.2L & 5.3L Replace cam & lifters Part 1
th-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/w-d-xo.html
Whats the fuel economy difference with and without the delete? I have the 6.2 and want to delete but my fuel savings is amazing made it from jasper alberta to vancouver BC with one tank of fuel! Got 7.6L/100km
I only saw 1-2mpg difference th-cam.com/video/ddthA_E5Yqc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=o8nKMpXNj8W7KkxZ
@dannyjohnsonsgarage what is the average cost of getting this done?
Thanks for video! I tried to explain to my wife! Video did better!
Your wife is interested in this?? She's a keeper!!
So is it true that changing the oil at 3k helps prevent this issue or not really?
It would definitely help with not clogging up the small hole the oil goes into to collapse the lifter.
What about a seafoam treatment? Ive heard some people have good experiences with this treatment
@@DavidRamirez-kv9xc I usually do a seafoam (1oz to a quart) and idle it for about an hour before draining it. It seems to clean better on all my rigs.
At what mileage do these lifters fail? I’m sitting at 77,000 miles on my 2012 Sierra and want to rebuild to make more power when the lifters go bad
I'd do it before then. When the lifters go bad they can cause catastrophic damage. $$
Lifters can go bad at anytime, mine failed a 3,900 miles. (2021 Silverado 5.3 V-8)
Unfortunately, or fortunately, depending on how you look at it, there is not one set amount of miles that make these crazy things happen. I've seen it happen on new trucks with less than 3k or trucks with over 150k or even 200k never have an issue. There is no telling when or even if it will happen.
You’d be a fool to buy any DOD GM without a warranty.
What could it mean if you did the AFM DOD delete and the lift failed after?
Mine was a regular lifter that failed, but possibly due to the active fuel management/displacement on demand. During the repair, the dod/afm was replaced with a regular GM camshaft that does not utilize the afm/dod because that system is prone to failures: DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade 6.2L & 5.3L Replace cam & lifters Part 1
th-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/w-d-xo.html
I have 6.6 number8 lifter collapsed
Youngster: "This is a traditional lifter here, has a roller on the bottom..."
Traditional GM lifter that is not AFM
Is it economic to do all this work on an older vehicle?
Well, if the lifters and cam fail, you will be doing it after it fails and leaves you stranded.
Never did hear why just shutting it off with a tune would not fix this situation. No Oil being sent to from the VLOM means no activation and miss time issue's. Lifters stay in "locked out' state and cant compress. Did i miss something?
It will keep the timing events from happening, and if the lifters don’t have a lot of milage on them, the pins may not be worn down and the lifter shouldn’t collapse. Unfortunately, even in my case, the regular lifter is what failed. It’s just too many variables with this setup. I would definitely turn it off and just see what happens
Ah ok. Yeah I have had mine disabled on my 2016 for last 50k miles. 117k on ot now. The best thing I did was start running motorkote
185K on my '08 1500. I turned my AFM off I think probably around 2015. I change my oil every 4K. Just recently noticed a tapping at idle when the engine was warmed up. I bumped the throttle and it went away. 5 min later while still idling it started taping again. Again bumped throttle and it went away. Yesterday I heard it when cruising slowing through town, I would bump the throttle but it didn't go away for about 3 minutes.
Not sure if it's the lifters or timing chain or what.. it's intermittent though.
People are saying no joke a quart of ATF in the oil over time and maybe multiple oil changes can clean out the lifters to where this goes away. They swear it works. I don't know, I think I'm going to try it as my other option is spending thousands on deleting. Sounds like it's all the same parts to replace if there's an actual failure right?
Also it does no good to replace them if you put the same part back in which will fail again. A lifter can easily last 300k miles. Just look at Toyotas 5.7. So what lifter do we use to delete the AFM and allow this great engine to run 300k without issue is the big question and also the part number?
You use the LS7 solid lifters but you need to buy the kit that also comes with the non-dod cam. Brian Tooley racing sells the kits th-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=rmOQT7gr2nAKBgx6
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Got it and that helps a lot. Hopefully they will last forever like a lifter should
i got a kit off amazon without camssjaft says the kit "not needed" i installed now my engine is in 4 cil mode any ideas?
Just a plug in kit for the computer or the lifters?
Careful with the amazon afm disablers. The reviews have tons of people complaining of problems with unrelated things going wrong, only trust the" range "brand disabler
Besides a delete, what methods can be done to reduce the odds of a lifter failure? Frequent oil changes?...Driving in L9 or L7 depending on your transmission?...
Yes, oil changes are the best- way earlier than the timer set. I’d go back to 3,000 miles or so and make sure the level is always full
What about seafoam from time to time?
@@DavidRamirez-kv9xc I just started using Valvoline Restore and Protect to clean the internal parts of my engine. I am hoping this will keep my small oil passages clean. I change my oil at 3k all the time as well as got my transmission flushed at around 80k miles.
Also keep your coolant topped off and flushed every 40k miles or so and use distilled water if you buy the concentrate and need to mix it.
I'm not sure why people can't understand this. Most of the time the lifter gets stuck in the collapsed position if you add a AFM disabler like range Technologies you are keeping the lifter from collapsing in the first place. This will greatly reduce you having an issue because the lifter is not collapsing.🤯🤯🤯
@@johnsmith3735 Yeah driving in L7 or L9 depending on if you have an 8-speed or 10-speed disables the AFM/DFM and the engine is running in 8-cylinder mode all the time.
I am going to buy an $70k vehicle…. First modification… altering the factory engine so it doesn’t fail…
Crazy. Just crazy.
I have a full playlist of repairs you shouldn’t have to worry about with such an expensive vehicle. The lifters, transmission harness, trim panels, so many things
Yukon / Tahoe / Suburban / Escalade Owner’s manual Bells & whistles
th-cam.com/play/PLIjr-uSYDZi7J7EQ1ErTn1Yzi6ET_3Ssr.html
An engine out repair? Holy cow
I was able to do it in the vehicle, but the manual calls to remove it: DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade 6.2L & 5.3L Replace cam & lifters Part 1
th-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/w-d-xo.html
What years have the dod?
2007-2014 select models and all 2015+.
AFM was introduced by GM in 2005 in several models.
Gm lost me as a long time customer with this Terrible feature.
Me too
Second time mine has failed, looking into a 6.2 GM performance swap, no DFM, 430 HP.
Best way to fix this issue is get a different car and never buy another GM V8.
Hence my tundra and sequoia Toyota Sequoia
th-cam.com/play/PLIjr-uSYDZi4VVY98CUqYZPQMptDhexbN.html
Toyota Tundra Playlist
th-cam.com/play/PLIjr-uSYDZi57XD9z82F06EWPIA6KBhzI.html
Yah ok
@@dannyjohnsonsgarageyou might want to take a look at the issues the Tundra is having since 2022! It's just as bad as the trash gm made
@@itscoldinwinter1 yeah, that’s why I went with the 2021 with the V8. I trust Toyota the most but I think they are bound to have issues with the V6 TT being new and more complicated
Chevy was not selling as many trucks as Ford for almost 40 years. What happened is the trucks were lasting to long and people were keeping them so they had to make something fail and chose the lifters. When doing this job delete the AFM lifters with normal lifters if you can and those normal lifters should easily last 300k.
I think it also had a lot to do with the bailout and how GM had to meet better fuel economy under its new stipulations. Being harder to do, yes, they probably had a target reliability of just what warranty will cover. They are likely making a lot of money doing repairs out of warranty
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Agree but why not just add less fuel using smaller injectors? The AFM thing is not a good deal. It’s a huge safety issue and could allow you to get hit and killed by a car coming at you
@@zackk695 i think they should have just shut off fuel for that cylinder and allowed it to keep opening and closing the valves. They do have direct injection which uses less fuel but causes other gunk problems Direct injection vs Port injection, why direct injection is bad for your engine, what it looks like
th-cam.com/video/Op2nSHkoD1Q/w-d-xo.html
Is there a setting on the dash where you can turn off the fuel efficient mode?
@@zackk695That's not how fuel economy works. Can't just swap to smaller injectors 😂
If a lifter sticks and you're 20 plus miles from home, you drive it home, can a total dod delete still be an option? Or has the drive home taken out the motor beyond repair?
It would be better than my lifter failing and putting metal in the engine as far as that goes, but it may have a bent pushrod if it had a mid timing event, which can still be repaired in most cases. Once you have it apart you can see what the best option is. Sometimes a new engine to drop on is less risk and hassle th-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=b9wEDgZegqqzFsd5
My friends motor failed I told him not to buy it great trucks but the EPA has done this no Chevy all types of these motors fail
What about the computer, it has to be reprogramed. GM won"t do it.
Absolute junk.
This motor engineering does not make sense why make an engine that will fail
CAFE and environmentalists. Next time get a 2500 without DFM.... or get a Toyota last I knew they can meet gov't standards without AFM/DFM type tech.
I just spent $14k on an entire new motor for my 2019 Trailboss. I got the dod deleted motor with the Diablo tuner. Sucks but it is a common GM issue they dont care about
Which engine exactly did you get?
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Jasper 5.3 ltr
@@f-j-boutdoors3315 good to know they offer one when people ask me