Finally blew the head gasket & cracked the head at the spark plug hole of cylinder #3 on my 3RZ. I bought my 2000 Tacoma 4x4 with automatic transmission brand new, and she made it to 376,000 miles. Just had it entirely rebuilt using a brand new original Toyota head and master rebuild kit, all bought from LC Engineering. Because OE valves were unavailable anywhere, LC Engineering sold me the very best black nitride coated stainless steel Super Tech racing valves at wholesale price. The head has all upgrades including stiffer valve springs & Viton valve seals with brass valve guides. Bored it 0.020" over as well. The bottom end was still fine, but I wanted all the compression of an entirely fresh engine. I just put 500 miles on it, and about to change to Amsoil 10w30 synthetic. Gonna drive this little 4x4 till I'm dead, lol.
That may depend on what certain engine from whatever automaker PLUS what components you are using, such as what type of rings, bearings, and how these components are clearanced. What is the engine gonna be used for? There's no single answer for every engine. For my 3RZ-FE, the shop I chose is known statewide here in Florida to be among the very best. They accept work that practically all other shops turn away, such as very old, antique aircraft engines. No problem for Randy & Skip of "Brevard Cylinder Head Exchange & Machine Shop". They've been in business longer than most any other machine shop in the state. Previous owners passed away & passing the business to their top machinist who learned everything from them. The business name sure doesn't sound very "cool"......like "Jake's Speed Shop"........but Randy & Skip of Brevard Cylinder Head build more race engines ( any size and type you can name ) than any FIVE SHOPS COMBINED in central Florida. Many of our local racers in both drag racing to circle tracks swear by Brevard Cylinder Head. Lots of very happy 22r/22re, 2JZ and 2RZ/3RZ (just to name a few Toyota engines ) owners included. My close friend is a certified Toyota tech for going on 30 yrs now, had his most recent 383 Stroker LS built by these guys for his bad ass custom airboat. My buddy is the one who strongly suggested I have them rebuild my 3RZ. Both Skip and Randy told me that with the parts we went with including the Hastings moly rings & King bearings, but built as an everyday driver that's a bump above stock, that my engine didn't need much break-in at all. ( We re-used my stock OE cams & buckets). So I'm gonna follow THEIR strong advice. I now have over 25K miles on it, and it doesn't burn a drop of oil. It didn't even burn any oil during the short break-in process either. So you can do or believe whatever ya want. As for me, I followed MY engine builder's advice. @@sschevmale24
See my previous response to you. I forgot to mention that the short break-in procedure they prescribed to me was run the zinc break-in oil for only 50 miles, then change oil & filter to regular conventional 10w30 and run that for 250 miles to thoroughly flush all of the zinc out of my valve train. ( Keep in mind, we re-used the original OE cams & lifters ) I did that, but took an extra step: I used conventional 10w30 with yet another filter for an added 250 miles, to make damn sure I flushed all of the zinc out. ( for 500 miles total on conventional oil ) Then I went with the Amsoil 10w30 full synthetic & new filter. Not a single issue or concern since. See my other lengthy response to you. @@sschevmale24
@@sschevmale24I'm a professional engine builder and we only use conventional oil for initial start and 1st change because it's cheaper than running full synthetic throughout.
Damn that looks nice.. 2.7 is a beastly little motor, don’t let the fact that it’s 4 cylinders fool you, I’ve got that same engine in mine and if you didn’t know any better it pulls about as hard as a 6 cylinder and sounds as good too.
I absolutely love mine. I bought a brand new 2000 Tacoma 4x4 with automatic trans and the 3RZ ( duel cam version) with factory tow package ( larger rear drums/brakes ......discs up front of course ). 18 yrs later and just over 330,000 miles, it still runs & drives as good as the day I drove it off the dealer's lot, I kid you not. And still with all original engine & drive train. With fairly large 265 all terrain tires, on asphalt, it's a real dog from a standing start. ( entirely different animal on the trail though ) But from a 40 mph roll-off, it really gets up & goes like crazy. It cruises 90 mph on the interstate at just over 3,000 rpm, and purrs right along & my water temp guage is still right where it should be. I've worked the snot out of my Tacoma over the years, but I've always kept the oil changed with nothing but good ole Castrol GTX 10w30. The 2.7 liter 3RZ motor in stock form is known for its mid range punch where most of the torque is around 4,000 rpm's......whereas most other 4 cylinder engines need higher rpm's to achieve their maximum torque. NOTHING sounds like the 3RZ motor, with it's really deep "throaty" sounding exhaust note. Even on the world's fastest 3RZ's with turbo's making insane horsepower, at idle and lower rpm's, you can STILL hear that unmistakable & unique deep "throaty" exhaust note. The cast iron block of the 3RZ also has a very high nickle content, making them extremely tough engine blocks. I wouldn't get rid of mine for anything. My good buddy, who has now been a mechanic for a Toyota dealership over 25 yrs, and does any real work ( only twice in 18 yrs ) for me at a very cheap rate ( lucky me ) recently did a compression check as I had him install a new valve cover gasket and new exhaust manifold ( first time for both, the manifold cracked due to my insane 4 wheeling years ago in deep mud & water )........and he said my motor is in GREAT condition & SHOULD run at least another 300+ thousand miles. Even the automatic transmission still shifts out clean, crisp, and smooth. LOVE IT. Best vehicle I've ever owned hands down, and I've owned a lot over the years at 56 yrs old.
Hi Jesse Good day to you, Such a great help in Rebuilding my 3RZ, Will be My old age partner, I hope i can have my answers if somewhere I stuck BeBlessed
In this you can see his timing chain cover and his oil pump cover (oil pump cover having an extra chamber) I'm not doing double (twice) the same work This cover offered to me is just not the same it doesn't have the (that) extra oil pump cover chamber! And the oil collector tube flens fitting Is in this video under the correct angle It's going to be return junk to the junkyard soon!...haha
Did you replace anything on the bottom end besides piston rings¿ Were those new pistons, new bearings, all that..? Reuse the top end? Considering rebuilding my 3rz... Intimidated, but just plain old love my truck and it's heart..
Russell Osborn yep new pistons new rings and bearings the head came off after we put it together again to have the valves reseated in the end everything is new
I have to admit that I am not a fan of honing and reringing. You’re just introducing more piston to cylinder wall clearance. The way I see things, if you have good crosshatching, your compression is good, and you’re not burning oil through your rings, leave it alone. Otherwise, buy new pistons and rings and bore it.
Cross hatching brush is fine with new rings to help seal them. I've never liked those hone sticks for drill. However it's a simple rebuild. Nothing wrong with what he did. 500hp yea might go a different route
Dong beware of the dampener bolt it’s crazy tight snapped my timing chain holding cam’s trying to back the bolt out, if I had it to do over I would of did the break over bar against the frame rail and tapped the starter before I pulled engine.
@jessesauto7917 awesome thanks man. Great video. The one I'm about to pick up has 400k needs new tranny but I don't mind working on stuff . Thanks agaim
Hey bruh did you delete the balance shafts when you did this? Frees up a bit of horsepower but main advantage is they rely on splash oiling and are prone to failure. The weak link in a 3rz.
Yahya Alghamdi Deleting the 2Rz/3rz balance shafts gets rid of a cumbersome set of chains that are failure prone. Also the balance shafts were known to fail as they rely on splash lubrication. Plus they rob horsepower. They are not required Toyota added them for NVH control but they do not affect the engine rotating mass. If you are worried then whole overhauling the engine have the bottom end balanced.
![⚔️จำกัดเวลา⚔️ [พากย์ไทย] ซอร์ดอาร์ตออนไลน์ ซีซั่น 1 - ฉบับมัดรวมทุกตอน](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ohkfBVDXLSA/mqdefault.jpg)
Finally blew the head gasket & cracked the head at the spark plug hole of cylinder #3 on my 3RZ. I bought my 2000 Tacoma 4x4 with automatic transmission brand new, and she made it to 376,000 miles. Just had it entirely rebuilt using a brand new original Toyota head and master rebuild kit, all bought from LC Engineering. Because OE valves were unavailable anywhere, LC Engineering sold me the very best black nitride coated stainless steel Super Tech racing valves at wholesale price. The head has all upgrades including stiffer valve springs & Viton valve seals with brass valve guides. Bored it 0.020" over as well. The bottom end was still fine, but I wanted all the compression of an entirely fresh engine. I just put 500 miles on it, and about to change to Amsoil 10w30 synthetic. Gonna drive this little 4x4 till I'm dead, lol.
Noooooo go 5k than change to synthetic
That may depend on what certain engine from whatever automaker PLUS what components you are using, such as what type of rings, bearings, and how these components are clearanced. What is the engine gonna be used for? There's no single answer for every engine. For my 3RZ-FE, the shop I chose is known statewide here in Florida to be among the very best. They accept work that practically all other shops turn away, such as very old, antique aircraft engines. No problem for Randy & Skip of "Brevard Cylinder Head Exchange & Machine Shop". They've been in business longer than most any other machine shop in the state. Previous owners passed away & passing the business to their top machinist who learned everything from them. The business name sure doesn't sound very "cool"......like "Jake's Speed Shop"........but Randy & Skip of Brevard Cylinder Head build more race engines ( any size and type you can name ) than any FIVE SHOPS COMBINED in central Florida. Many of our local racers in both drag racing to circle tracks swear by Brevard Cylinder Head. Lots of very happy 22r/22re, 2JZ and 2RZ/3RZ (just to name a few Toyota engines ) owners included. My close friend is a certified Toyota tech for going on 30 yrs now, had his most recent 383 Stroker LS built by these guys for his bad ass custom airboat. My buddy is the one who strongly suggested I have them rebuild my 3RZ. Both Skip and Randy told me that with the parts we went with including the Hastings moly rings & King bearings, but built as an everyday driver that's a bump above stock, that my engine didn't need much break-in at all. ( We re-used my stock OE cams & buckets). So I'm gonna follow THEIR strong advice. I now have over 25K miles on it, and it doesn't burn a drop of oil. It didn't even burn any oil during the short break-in process either. So you can do or believe whatever ya want. As for me, I followed MY engine builder's advice. @@sschevmale24
@howabouthetruth2157 I am an engine builder and we used conventional oil until 5k.
See my previous response to you. I forgot to mention that the short break-in procedure they prescribed to me was run the zinc break-in oil for only 50 miles, then change oil & filter to regular conventional 10w30 and run that for 250 miles to thoroughly flush all of the zinc out of my valve train. ( Keep in mind, we re-used the original OE cams & lifters ) I did that, but took an extra step: I used conventional 10w30 with yet another filter for an added 250 miles, to make damn sure I flushed all of the zinc out. ( for 500 miles total on conventional oil ) Then I went with the Amsoil 10w30 full synthetic & new filter. Not a single issue or concern since. See my other lengthy response to you. @@sschevmale24
@@sschevmale24I'm a professional engine builder and we only use conventional oil for initial start and 1st change because it's cheaper than running full synthetic throughout.
Damn that looks nice.. 2.7 is a beastly little motor, don’t let the fact that it’s 4 cylinders fool you, I’ve got that same engine in mine and if you didn’t know any better it pulls about as hard as a 6 cylinder and sounds as good too.
Layne Landon its on its way to being turboed atm also
I absolutely love mine. I bought a brand new 2000 Tacoma 4x4 with automatic trans and the 3RZ ( duel cam version) with factory tow package ( larger rear drums/brakes ......discs up front of course ). 18 yrs later and just over 330,000 miles, it still runs & drives as good as the day I drove it off the dealer's lot, I kid you not. And still with all original engine & drive train. With fairly large 265 all terrain tires, on asphalt, it's a real dog from a standing start. ( entirely different animal on the trail though ) But from a 40 mph roll-off, it really gets up & goes like crazy. It cruises 90 mph on the interstate at just over 3,000 rpm, and purrs right along & my water temp guage is still right where it should be. I've worked the snot out of my Tacoma over the years, but I've always kept the oil changed with nothing but good ole Castrol GTX 10w30. The 2.7 liter 3RZ motor in stock form is known for its mid range punch where most of the torque is around 4,000 rpm's......whereas most other 4 cylinder engines need higher rpm's to achieve their maximum torque. NOTHING sounds like the 3RZ motor, with it's really deep "throaty" sounding exhaust note. Even on the world's fastest 3RZ's with turbo's making insane horsepower, at idle and lower rpm's, you can STILL hear that unmistakable & unique deep "throaty" exhaust note. The cast iron block of the 3RZ also has a very high nickle content, making them extremely tough engine blocks. I wouldn't get rid of mine for anything. My good buddy, who has now been a mechanic for a Toyota dealership over 25 yrs, and does any real work ( only twice in 18 yrs ) for me at a very cheap rate ( lucky me ) recently did a compression check as I had him install a new valve cover gasket and new exhaust manifold ( first time for both, the manifold cracked due to my insane 4 wheeling years ago in deep mud & water )........and he said my motor is in GREAT condition & SHOULD run at least another 300+ thousand miles. Even the automatic transmission still shifts out clean, crisp, and smooth. LOVE IT. Best vehicle I've ever owned hands down, and I've owned a lot over the years at 56 yrs old.
it does not sound as good
Nice, i got one of these in my Datsun 720 King Cab and it goes great
On setting timing on 3rz 2.7,,,which is a right position of the pistons, and a car can start with the bad timing on harmonic balance shafts
watching this is terrifying, honing at warp speed
Adrian LastName shibby
Not terrifying when you got the experience to do that and know when to stop. Good job sir
Ikr ding the cylinder walls up
Hi Jesse Good day to you,
Such a great help in Rebuilding my 3RZ, Will be My old age partner,
I hope i can have my answers if somewhere I stuck
BeBlessed
nice you should do an update video on it if you still have it
Probably shouldn’t use oil when drill honing dish washing liquid is the best thing to use.
Gasoline
Wow bud yer a little shake with the hone eh? No insult yer saving just hone them hone skills cheers
In this you can see his timing chain cover and his oil pump cover (oil pump cover having an extra chamber)
I'm not doing double (twice) the same work
This cover offered to me is just not the same it doesn't have the (that) extra oil pump cover chamber!
And the oil collector tube flens fitting Is in this video under the correct angle
It's going to be return junk to the junkyard soon!...haha
Did you replace anything on the bottom end besides piston rings¿ Were those new pistons, new bearings, all that..? Reuse the top end? Considering rebuilding my 3rz... Intimidated, but just plain old love my truck and it's heart..
Russell Osborn yep new pistons new rings and bearings the head came off after we put it together again to have the valves reseated in the end everything is new
amigo como estas una pregunta para saber si las lebas tienen alguna sincronizacion en la leba de escape en el reache
Nice, it sounds great.
Hola amigo saludo desde panamá que me dises de esos motores 3rz son buenos cuanto el consumo por kilometro
I have to admit that I am not a fan of honing and reringing. You’re just introducing more piston to cylinder wall clearance. The way I see things, if you have good crosshatching, your compression is good, and you’re not burning oil through your rings, leave it alone. Otherwise, buy new pistons and rings and bore it.
Cross hatching brush is fine with new rings to help seal them. I've never liked those hone sticks for drill. However it's a simple rebuild. Nothing wrong with what he did. 500hp yea might go a different route
Tremendo mechanic
everything remain stock?
Who taught you how to hone a cylinder sir?!
I wonder how long that engine lasted?
Still going strong to this day 💪
After honing process did you install standard size pistons and rings???
steve castellanos yeah just new ones
How many miles did it have on it before ya rebuilt it?
Howabouthetruth 270thousand klms
@@jessesauto7917 damn Jesse! Keep going bro
do you happen to know the thread pattern for the engine stand mounting to block?
Dong no sorry
12mmX1.25 I needed 80mm in length
@@ericdavis219 Thank you. I checked my engine stand arms, i need 90mm. I'll get some washers just in case.
Dong beware of the dampener bolt it’s crazy tight snapped my timing chain holding cam’s trying to back the bolt out, if I had it to do over I would of did the break over bar against the frame rail and tapped the starter before I pulled engine.
@@ericdavis219 i got a holder tool and a puller for the harmonic damper from amazon.
How long take to rebuild engine
How tall are you man. Im 5'10 ish . Im aboit to luck into a regular cab. Do you fit comfortably
I'm about the same height and fit comfortably in it
@jessesauto7917 awesome thanks man. Great video. The one I'm about to pick up has 400k needs new tranny but I don't mind working on stuff . Thanks agaim
Noice
My 1RZ Engine has got no spark, what must I do ???
Swap it
Hey bruh did you delete the balance shafts when you did this? Frees up a bit of horsepower but main advantage is they rely on splash oiling and are prone to failure. The weak link in a 3rz.
Rip Logan isn’t removing balance shafts making it less reliable
Im genuinely curious
Yahya Alghamdi Deleting the 2Rz/3rz balance shafts gets rid of a cumbersome set of chains that are failure prone. Also the balance shafts were known to fail as they rely on splash lubrication. Plus they rob horsepower. They are not required Toyota added them for NVH control but they do not affect the engine rotating mass. If you are worried then whole overhauling the engine have the bottom end balanced.
Rip Logan aha thanks for telling me mate I appreciate it
Yahya Alghamdi
th-cam.com/video/6m8HWU1cNk8/w-d-xo.html
Should i do this to my 3rz? Is it a difficult process
Where about in Queensland are you?
Jed Medin Hervey Bay
Nice.
Is it toyota 4 runner
This is all wrong. The honing process.
Almost pooped when I saw that. Because I. Done it that way before lol
Bro its 159hp. It's fine
is it still running?
Adrian Moreno sure is
Adrian Moreno pretty sure it has turbo now
not having an egr must be nice
Why.
Who did you get your rebuild flit from?
So long ago I don’t remember I think it was just eBay
😂 worst honing ever.
I need u to rebuild mine