I wanted to go with the same drop-in design. So, I used the Red Head 1/2-13 x 2 as well. But, my floor winch pulled them out of the concrete. So, I went with 4" threaded rods and Red Head T7+ Epoxy. Doesn't move. Should have done that to begin with. Live and learn.
Thank you! I am considering installing eye-hooks in the garage floor. This is so I can better man-handle the 5,100-pound Chevrolet Express van with a come-a-long. Great tips throughout this video.
Lol, interesting! Sometimes anchors can solve some big problems if you don't have big equipment around. Just don't forget that the anchors are not rated for human life safety situations.
So now you can put wheels on the machine bases, which will help in moving them around. If you can find a safe place to mount a hook on the floor, you could also roll the machines under the hook. No need to bolt and unbolt each time. Make a bar of the same height on each machine to catch the hook. Awesome!
Question... is vacuuming the hole out necessary when setting anchors in the ceiling?... like when setting racks/trapeze for conduit? Sometimes it can be challenging after hammer drilling to go ahead and set anchors. Wondering if this may be an overlooked step... also curious if dust/debree is a factor with drilling in the ceiling or does gravity solve that issue?
When drilling overhead the dust mostly falls out on its own. One trick I like is to keep a can of air duster in your anchoring tool kit so you don't have to lug around an air hose if one is even available. Mainly, having the hole clean helps the anchor bite into the material directly and reduces slippage of the anchor when load is applied.
What's the correct procedure for using bolts that are significantly longer than the anchor? For example: I have a 16cm long bolt, that I need to mount almost flush to the ceiling. Do I drill a 16cm hole and push the drop in anchor all the way to the bottom of the hole? Or should I still insert the anchor so it's flat with the ceiling surface?
You may be able to find an anchor that has thru threads. I suppose you could push the anchor below the surface if necessary. I am not sure these anchors are rated as safe for overhead use. I suspect there are higher holding standards for suspended objects but that would warrant you doing more research or talking to a professional about your application.
my concrete is soft and crumbly and my drop in anchors spin in the hole when tightening the bolt down. Mixed results using epoxy to stop the spin. Frustrating & time consuming process. Eventually will prevail and this was a bit helpful. Thanks
I was using 1/4” Tapcons to hold a bracket on my metal railing in the floor, however due to the cover that slides over the mounting holes, I was not able to put 100% downward force on the Tapcons. So I used a socket to screw it in but it snapped the Tapcons in half. This pissed me off - So now I going to use these Drop-Grip anchors.
Hi. When drilling the hole does it necessary to drill the hole 2mm bigger than drop in anchor? if 2mm bigger the bottom part has room to expand but the top part is loose had no wall to support. Your demo look like the hole as big as the anchor. I like your method. Can drop in anchor use on bridge wall? It has holes inside. Thanks
I like the hole to be as close to the size of the anchor as possible. 2mm over size us way too big. Lately I have really found the epoxy set inserts are way easier to use and much faster.
I'd definitely recommend renting a proper hammer drill for anything more that one hole, makes drilling so much faster. Also, don't space anchors too close together, I think the rule is don't put them closer than ten times the diameter of the anchor itself. So for that 1/2" anchor you don't want another one within 5"
Just needs to be deep enough for the anchor to seat flush. I usually go a bit deeper than needed because you may not always get all the debris out of the hole completely.
Excellent video. You are installing the anchor in a CONCRETE floor, NOT a cement floor. Cement is a gray powder that makes up concrete along with large aggregate (rock), fine aggregate (sand), and water. Many people use the words interchangeably, referring to a cement driveway or cement slab; it is a common mistake; it's just a pet peeve of mine. FWIW - You don't "pour" concrete; you "place" it; just another pet peeve. Again, an excellent video.
using a bag + zip tie to not lose the hardware is a fantastic idea!
Thanks. It has to be handy and easy. I have noticed the bag does not last long but something heavier duty would be best.
Maybe glue on a rare earth button magnet. My drill chuck keys live on those.
I wanted to go with the same drop-in design. So, I used the Red Head 1/2-13 x 2 as well. But, my floor winch pulled them out of the concrete. So, I went with 4" threaded rods and Red Head T7+ Epoxy. Doesn't move. Should have done that to begin with. Live and learn.
Yeah we have gone to the epoxy as well. Easier and better.
Good looking out with the set screw👍
8:20 fill them with silicone, pulls out nice and easy when time to get in there
Thank you!
I am considering installing eye-hooks in the garage floor. This is so I can better man-handle the 5,100-pound Chevrolet Express van with a come-a-long.
Great tips throughout this video.
Lol, interesting! Sometimes anchors can solve some big problems if you don't have big equipment around. Just don't forget that the anchors are not rated for human life safety situations.
So now you can put wheels on the machine bases, which will help in moving them around. If you can find a safe place to mount a hook on the floor, you could also roll the machines under the hook. No need to bolt and unbolt each time. Make a bar of the same height on each machine to catch the hook. Awesome!
Excellent details in layman terms explanation..enjoyed watching..
Question... is vacuuming the hole out necessary when setting anchors in the ceiling?... like when setting racks/trapeze for conduit? Sometimes it can be challenging after hammer drilling to go ahead and set anchors. Wondering if this may be an overlooked step... also curious if dust/debree is a factor with drilling in the ceiling or does gravity solve that issue?
When drilling overhead the dust mostly falls out on its own. One trick I like is to keep a can of air duster in your anchoring tool kit so you don't have to lug around an air hose if one is even available. Mainly, having the hole clean helps the anchor bite into the material directly and reduces slippage of the anchor when load is applied.
What's the correct procedure for using bolts that are significantly longer than the anchor?
For example: I have a 16cm long bolt, that I need to mount almost flush to the ceiling. Do I drill a 16cm hole and push the drop in anchor all the way to the bottom of the hole? Or should I still insert the anchor so it's flat with the ceiling surface?
You may be able to find an anchor that has thru threads. I suppose you could push the anchor below the surface if necessary. I am not sure these anchors are rated as safe for overhead use. I suspect there are higher holding standards for suspended objects but that would warrant you doing more research or talking to a professional about your application.
my concrete is soft and crumbly and my drop in anchors spin in the hole when tightening the bolt down. Mixed results using epoxy to stop the spin. Frustrating & time consuming process. Eventually will prevail and this was a bit helpful. Thanks
I was using 1/4” Tapcons to hold a bracket on my metal railing in the floor, however due to the cover that slides over the mounting holes, I was not able to put 100% downward force on the Tapcons. So I used a socket to screw it in but it snapped the Tapcons in half. This pissed me off - So now I going to use these Drop-Grip anchors.
Hope these are better. The epoxy set anchors are excellent as well.
Nice tip on the plastic bag. Thanks for sharing with us and take care.
Thanks!
Every little tip helps us improve our experience, so does your feedback!
fantastic job.
Exactly what i needed !!! Thank you for the detailed video.
Glad to hear it!
@@TigermothRacingTV you can see what I did mine in the video I just posted.
Hi. When drilling the hole does it necessary to drill the hole 2mm bigger than drop in anchor? if 2mm bigger the bottom part has room to expand but the top part is loose had no wall to support. Your demo look like the hole as big as the anchor. I like your method. Can drop in anchor use on bridge wall? It has holes inside. Thanks
I like the hole to be as close to the size of the anchor as possible. 2mm over size us way too big. Lately I have really found the epoxy set inserts are way easier to use and much faster.
You sir are very smart man
Can you use these in bricks?
Probably, although there might be a higher chance of cracking the brick?
@@TigermothRacingTV thanks, seen some of these today and wasn’t sure. Appreciate the feedback.
What happens if you set the drop in anchor and its not fully embedded?
If the anchor is not all the way in the hole it has a high chance of pulling out in use and may crack the concrete.
Nicely done, thank you!
I'd definitely recommend renting a proper hammer drill for anything more that one hole, makes drilling so much faster.
Also, don't space anchors too close together, I think the rule is don't put them closer than ten times the diameter of the anchor itself. So for that 1/2" anchor you don't want another one within 5"
Great tips. Thanks for sharing
Greatly appreciated
How deep did you drill your hole?
Just needs to be deep enough for the anchor to seat flush. I usually go a bit deeper than needed because you may not always get all the debris out of the hole completely.
Excellent video. You are installing the anchor in a CONCRETE floor, NOT a cement floor. Cement is a gray powder that makes up concrete along with large aggregate (rock), fine aggregate (sand), and water. Many people use the words interchangeably, referring to a cement driveway or cement slab; it is a common mistake; it's just a pet peeve of mine. FWIW - You don't "pour" concrete; you "place" it; just another pet peeve. Again, an excellent video.