As a licensed professional engineer I can say you did an amazing job with this video. Also Simpson Strong-Tie also makes a really good software and is my preference for design and product selection.
Thanks for the comment Brad! We're currently working on our next video reviewing various structural shapes-hopefully we can get your seal of approval there too!
This was really interesting to watch as a hard surface concept artist for the game industry. It gave me some insight into how to better communicate believable patterns of both construction and damage.
@Doscher-Design I feel that, I'm still developing my own texturing workflow and I have a hard time figuring out how to texture damage in a way that looks good
Italian restaurant in Canberra, waiting for my wife to have dinner. This popped up on my TH-cam and I watched it without sound immediately sent to my best mate. Builder and my favourite apprentice in Sydney. Great work
Excellent presentation on anchors. In the past, I preferred using post install types. I found it easier to accurately place anchors when working on a flat finished slab. When using J Bolts, we used a template made from plywood with holes for the bolts. We would place template and bolts in concrete together; depth, spacing, final dimensions. in 1 step. We also had dimension points on template and outer forms. This helped getting accurate placement. Once the concrete has hardened, very difficult to fix an error. It was always less expensive doing it right, than having to fix it later.
Why can't more contractors be more like you, everytime I ask for cast in anchors, the anchors end in the wrong location. For post fixed anchors, the rebar always gets in the way later requiring modifications!
I built some footings/bases for some very large planters and being an auto technician thought I would get some advice first, Which I sought from a guy in our village who designs big civil engineering stuff docks,quays,bridges etc.over a couple of pints in our local pub. Following his tips and adding my own idea by constructing a welded framework of 3/4" rebar to hold the fixings so the load is spread more evenly through the concrete base. Later when he came by I proudly showed him them,he said that they were far too big and his quick estimate reckoned the fixings offered about 40-50 ton of clamping force and that combined they could support one end of a typical pedestrian overpass🤣🤣🤣.They are still there though😁
@@jesseharris6466 I can't do stuff like that😂,anything practical comes naturally to me but,uploads,downloads and the like are beyond the scope of my social media interest.
I'm just a homeowner diy-er and was looking for which anchors i should buy for my aluminum pergola and i ran into this video....my head just exploded. Now I'll never be too sure in the way i install this pergola 😅 Awesome video though. 2 thumbs up!
Thank you for an informative video that helps explain the data sheets that suppliers post on their websites. I have been trying to investigate the differences between wedge anchors and drop in anchors as to their abilities to suspend loads. Drop in anchors are industry standard in my trade, plumbing, for hangers, while wedge anchors are used mostly for mounting items to floors and walls. I have seen only a few times wedge anchors used to suspend items and wondered why they are not used ,ore often.
Expansion anchors are difficult to install overhead because of the hammering and using a torque wrench. Drop-ins are a slightly easier install, but their load rating is quite low. The superior product is a screw-in anchor like a Simpson Titen HD.
The most failure you get with the ones you screw in directly into the concret. If the temperatur gets low it gets even worse. Hit ancor sometimes locked lose. They went into the drilled hole. The concrete sometimes has air gaps are non rebar or less cement. So the anchor locked in the hole. But didnt get a grip. He turn till eternity. The glued ones are the strongest ones. If you clean the hole properly with a pump. Also it takes the most time to set, and fasten the grip. Normal temperatur 20-25 degree is 15 Minutes, 5-10 degree is 3-5 hours. We use them to fix robots and heavy maschines to the ground wall or ceiling. If you have full material you can use Glaspatronen/capilar anchor. 😂😂😂 plase some in the hole and drill a screw,bolt or thread through. That will mix two chemical components. That will react and create a hold.
I saw some of this damage caused by myself attempting to install a car lift. It wasnt easy. I installed the MAX JAX home garage car lift in my home, and I cant emphasize enough to make sure you know what your concrete design and thickness is beforehand. When i started, after 2 different style sets of post installed anchors (fan-out and adhesive) not being able to be torqued, I later learned it was because of the shallow depth the garage pad has. 1977 home in AZ. non tension garage slab. Fan-out anchors would exceed the thickness of the concrete causing it to slide in and out of the properly drilled hole size. Adhesive anchors are unable to utilize the adhesive even with proper application of the adhesive. The surface area of the anchor needing to embed in the adhesive id extending past the body of the existing concrete in 5 out of 10 locations of anchors for the 2 posts. I knew I had to make a new hole in the ground of the garage in order to properly install the lift posts. I cut out a 12'7" x 3' rectangle where I want the car to be centered in the garage. The chunks of concrete I pulled out showed how uneven the entire garage pad is underneath. I dug a hole to 18" deep and 45deg angle up away from the bottom to meet up its angle to the underside of the existing concrete creating a V shape with a 12'7" x 3' flat bottom. I built a rebar cage filling the flat space with 12 points hammered into the ground 24" I built a bracket that can hold up the new set of MAXJAX adhesive style anchors for a cast-in place solution allowing a 1cm lip above the floor level. 3 cubic yards of 4000psi with fiber mesh filled the hole and I used a vibration tool to make sure to get air out of the underside of the existing concrete for the V shape. Once finished, the lift worked perfectly and level in all directions as well as perfectly parallel to each other. Looking back, I wish I modified the anchors for more surface area to hold in place by welding a large washer to the bottom of them. The feet for the posts have 5 bolts each with washers torqued to 90flbs per the MAXJAX specs. Bolt specs are: Diameter: 7/8" Length: 6.25" Tread depth: 15" Drill required: 7/8" The point of this story is check your concrete strength and design before doing any work. I was lucky I had a budget for my project car to cover this unforeseen added cost and I was able to finish the install.
I have had to reattach several handrails that had broken the corner off the concrete. I drilled and installed some direct into concrete screws into the remaining good concrete. I also drill into the remaining and use either drop in anchors or wedge type anchors with coupling nuts and all thread to come up thru the replacement pour. So I am anchoring the hand rails deeper and the screws sticking up give the pour something to bite onto better. I dont always have the option to redo it with new stairs or slabs.
With increasing popularity of the home shop car lift that is retrofit bolt down installation, people really need to do some research. A two leg lift hoisting a 5000 vehicle 5' in the air is going to present a lot of prying force. Coupled with often unknown concrete conditions and it's all coming down
Apparently most of this program didnt provide the stiffener, using built up stiffener to reduce arm length from anchor to flange could significantly reduce plate thickness. I suggest calculate it using plate yielding when it comes to optimized plate thickness
jackhammering concrete with jackhammer, you space your holes so to take advantage of the spall that occurs when you punch a hole through it, just like a bullet, it pushed out a cone on the bottom end, catch that cone and its easier to break as you go, go beyond the cone of spall, then your going through the entire slab again and again. the difference between working hard and making progress and just plain working hard.
I always see handrail anchors breaking out the edges of concrete... Could this be a freeze thaw issue as well in colder climates? If you used an epoxy anchor system would this prevent water and ice from freeze thaw integration?
There are hundreds of thousands of engineers here in the U.S.A. that don't though, while also learning from English video content. This while many that use metric, may not understand English language videos such as these.
Any good engineer should understand both units of measurement when helped set up 40 - 50 tonne grain silos on farm have circular ring diameter silo that need fixing to concrete slab they be approx 20 feet in diameter concrete reinforced with weld mesh 4 inches thick in middle deeper where support ring about 8 inch deep long J bolts put in wet concrete at least 6 inches in concrete to turn it clamps just had draw to circles for positioning made J large to hook under the mesh manufacur of silo recommend 1/2 inch I went up to 5/8 also they only recommended 4 mounting point I went 8 concrete nearly cost as much silo
Anybody use simpson titen hd bolts? I used the 304 stainless 1/2 x 6 and they seem solid. Used them to hold post bases for a deck and outdoor shower surround. Anybody have issues with them?
Good video, except that engineers don't spend to much time on these connections as a general rule. 99% just cut and paste, let's not play up this as some burdening science. It's literally cut and paste. And when engineers are in doubt? ....just double the safety factor ...so again, let's not over state the actual intelectual input that engineers actually apply to these to these connections.
Stereotypically TH-cam is 90% men, and these are the things that we watch. Tick tock is 90% women more or less, it is scary to think of the things women are taking in
I've been a drafter specializing in precast concrete structures for the past few years, and I like the way the info in this video was presented. I'd love to see a video on concrete embeds and prestressing strand. But for now I'm off to watch any other videos you have.
I don't do civil or concrete, but my bet as an electrical engineer with a materials background: Best anchor: welded to the steel reinforcement or glued to whatever other reinforcement. All other anchors subject concrete to tension.
Considerations, Specifications for anchor bolts via use of concrete: no to be used when vibrations and exposure to freezing temperatures are present…in time they such type of anchorage will fails. (vibrations will be a pulverizing action between the bolts threads and the holding concrete…freezing temperatures will act as a expansion and contraction of water moisture between the bolt and holding concrete reducing the holding strength bolt-concrete to failure.
I appreciate the information . I was once told by my brother of a failure of structure that the root cause was where the rebar placed in the concrete was not correct . It was at the wrong dept in the concrete . Not shocking news but it was important to note how placement of the rebar effects the load handling of concrete
You can engineer the Hell out of any design, but it will always be installed by a underpaid, minimum waged, under educated, inexperienced labourer, while texting (on a Friday afternoon, on a payday).
I install anchors that have been engineered and I do not meet your criteria. I am well paid, educated and a experienced plumber, who comes to work not text. A problem I have is engineering that doesn’t come to site more than twice and expects there to be no problems.
I didn't learn anything new. That has me relieved because I studied this shit too 😂 (other than the available software that was nice) Great presentation!
The Engineers on Boston's Big Dig learned the hard way about proper anchoring. That's why I don't like using adhesives. At least not on suspended loads. You have to understand creep and make sure you selected not only the proper adhesive, but also educate the contractor who will be using it as well. Dust that isn't cleaned out of drill holes is a big problem with adhesives. Especially when the anchors are installed on a suspended concrete panel weighing over 50 tons. They killed one and injured another in a car that was driving through the tunnel, and it was all due to creep. That kind of thing should not happen. Simple errors can and will lead to disaster, followed by a failure analysis contractor going through your designs with a fine tooth comb.
Both concrete and steel anchors are kind of amazing. Years ago, I remember going through the design documents for an I-beam being anchored vertically UPWARDS into a concrete slab. The I-beam would later have a small crane installed that slide along it. It was designed for something like a maximum load of 1.7t and the individual expanding anchor bolts were rated for something like 3t each and there were around 4 or 8 of those. I actually held the anchors in my hands and while they looked and felt very solid and strong, I had trouble getting my human intuition to wrap around the idea that the concrete around it wouldn't give way and allow the whole thing to come down at some point. I recall they had a force meter and measured the amount of load the anchors could handle (post install) and it was within the engineer's specifications so the installation was approved. I guess what I take away form it all is that you can't rely on appearances or intuition to judge whether something is structurally sound. You need materials and fasteners that are built to meet or exceed the required standards, you need correctly designed engineering drawings backed by accurate calculations and data and you need competent tradespeople to build or install something the right way without taking shortcuts or making mistakes.
Thanks especially for the math. Math for these subjects is greatly under-appreciated. I over the weekend, I was installing a handrail for my swimming pool - it bolts to the concrete on the edge of the pool and has a massive 48" overhang out over the underwater steps. So the leverage on it is huge and I worried that the four drop-in anchors provided with the kit might be insufficient. I did the math for a 300lb person leaning on the end of the handrail - and looked up the specs on those anchors - and...holy cow...nowhere near enough! So I got some 1/2" undercut anchors and was happily installing them when I found that the holes in the base plate of the handrail were a little too small. So...drill them out - right? Well, it's a 5mm stainless steel plate and I wrecked three drill bits trying to do that! So, score 10/10 for the math, 1/10 for my own materials knowledge!
Nicely done, at least you won’t have to worry about it. Recently had to enlarge the holes in a cast iron hanger to do something similar; certainly easier than stainless. The trick with any metal cutting or drilling is to use cutting & tapping fluid, it cools and slightly lubricates the part & bit you’re using, which makes it much more efficient. Also, speed is not helpful - gear down the drill and start really slow. Once you get started you can sped up a little. You know you’re doing it perfectly when the steel peels up in those little rinds - swarf I believe it’s called - rather than little chips. Same with pressure, less is better, you don’t have to bare down on the drill. Have found these steps work for me so far, they make it faster believe it or not - and with less failures.
OR... Don't bolt crap to concrete! Build things to sit stable, rather than being 3 stories tall with a narrow base. 25% of problems engineers solve are caused by other engineers, 75% are caused by architects.
Bruh, I just wanna bolt my motorcycle tire changer down to the garage slab. Now YT thinks I aspire to structural engineering. ;) Along the way I realized the 7/16” wedge anchors the Pittsburgh tire changer manual recommends functionally don’t exist. That’s Harbor Freight junk for you. I’m going with 3/8”drop-ins anyway since I didn’t exactly ask the landlord for permission. Still: Anyone know why 1/2” and 3/8” are the only common sizes for drop-in and wedge anchors at at North American contractor suppliers and hardware stores? Heck, even AMZN/eBy/AliEx. Figured someone here might actually know! :)
@@41divad thanks! I was hung up on getting the largest bolts that fit the holes and 1/2” was slightly too big. Didn’t want to drill them out so I went down to 3/8”.
A very interesting thing to observe about the anchoring mechanism it is its capacity to (if its properly designed) to act as a fuse, locating the damage due seismic or dynamic loads in the anchors. Nice video by the way
Good video, I use drop ins during concrete core drilling and always wondered what kind of failures could occur but I didn't think of how many there could be.
Back in my boilermaker days doing Field construction I got excellent results from hilti Anker products. Dispite the plant guys hitting the beam Anker's with the forks on they're fork trucks
How do they account for quality control in the metal and concrete? Are there some statistical analysis(fudge factor) built into the engineering calculations for less than average quality metal or concrete? Also, has non-destructive testing of metal and concrete changed with new technologies? My dad was an engineer and they had x-ray contractors come in at night to X-ray the welds on pressure vessels. Neat stuff to think about.
Quality control for steel is based on the varying testing agencies used in steel testing and qualifications. Like ISO9000. Testing of concrete is done on sight with a core sample and is standard for code approval. Also, the testing standard for concrete anchors is a 4x factor of safety, meaning manufacturers test their anchors to failure and then divide that number by 4. So, a test failing at 10,000 pounds would have a printed load rating of 2500lbs. Hope that helped.
And if you can't afford an engineer, talk to multiple people who have knowledge of the construction parameters, and over-engineer it. Alot of times, it's cheaper than hiring an engineer. Like me for example, I'm a poor farmer. I'm doing an oddball case of converting two grain bins into one, doubling some of the sheets, and making it higher. I'm updating the anchoring system to ones that are better, but using less of them. Even doubling what one person recommends for anchors, costs me around $84 more in materials. The whole project is probably going to be 12k. It's cheap insurance. Same with the rebar in the foundation, the thickness of the pad, etc. It doesn't amount to a whole lot more, and you know you're within spec. The manual calls for 6" interior pad thickness, go 8". Rebar 18" OC, go 14". But, don't always trust contractors to give you a reliable answer, even if they are a professional, and its what they would do on a commercial project. One grain bin contractor I talked to, recommended a rebar layout that was WAY under spec of what manuals recommend. These are people doing jobs much more expensive than mine, and apparently, they cut materials to save costs. In addition, who even knows if they would always adhere to rebar clearance from ground, so you have long term service of the foundation due to decreased risk of oxide jacking? Do your research, and you'll probably be further ahead.
I'm having difficulty finding out if the anchors I purchased for my car lift are right. I have purchased 14 Hilti HIT-ZR stainless steel anchors bolts size 3/4"x9 3/4" long. My concrete is 8 inches deep with rebar, 4000 psi concrete, and fiber strand added to concrete. Anyway, I want to use them with the Hilti HY-200R adhesive. The Challenger lift company sell ANKR-RITE wedge anchors with the lift. I've read a lot of negative reviews on wedge anchors. I've read chemical anchors are the way to go. How can I figure out if the Hilti Anchors are acceptable for my application?
Can we "add " the required grout mix under the post plates in the animation? Grout, meaning "cement grout," is due to viscosity, allowing it to fill all the voids due to its minuscule solids size. Any grout material, properties, strength, curing time, etc., have a range of preferred uses and methods, some good enough for standard baseplates and/or for the amount of material. Construction point of view - it fills all the gaps between the base plate and the concrete surface. No two surfaces will ever be fully "flush" with each other. Design point of view - it stops the bolt from bending for any shear forces on the bolt.
Just found ur4 channel my bro. Very interesting stuff. So I have a question if u have a spare minute to help me my friend. Notice I just called u my friend? I swear I'm not trying to butter u up mate.. LOL Genuine question though. So I have a small woodworking shop. I need to get Timber products up high onto the walls so I can have more space on the floor area.. I have put an order in for some 80mm Long Shield Anchor Loose Bolts, It says M8 X 25mm x 80mm.. Now it says they are 80mm long so could u explain the M8 X 25mm part of this description. I know the M8 is the size/OD? but where does this 25mm bit come into the equation?? So If I can explain what it is I want to build with these bolts if that's ok. I'm making my own brackets, welding them to be honest. I8'm new to all this stuff. haha! Maybe I should just buy the brackets as well.. ?? LMAO Sorry man. I just had a vision after telling u I was gonna weld the brackets myself even though I have little experience, and they're going to be holding my timber boards up on this wall.. LOL Yeeeeeah!!! Sounds more and more like I might be buying the brackets as well.. My apologies my friend. I really am asking u the questions about the bolts and how u calculate the loads b'cos it's not something u get told by the suppliers of these products. When u ask them the question they baulk at u like there are 2 blue moons in the sky.. I actually very much enjoyed ur video on this subject man. Have u got more on the same subject matter? I guess after subbing and liking the video I will share as well now my bro. Thanks in advance f u have a moment to answer my questions. Take care dude..
I came to see the thumbnail, and once again was clickbaited. 👎🏼 Will be reporting this vid. I cannot and will not stand for false images and clickbait.
Can somebody please help me by answering a simple question? I’m install a tv bracket onto my brick fireplace. I’m using 1/4” Titen screws. What size pilot hole should be pre-drilled? Do I even need to use a pilot hole?
sometimes it isn't material fault. I like to give an example from automotive industry. When truckers haul over loaded gargo that really can damage and harm the vehicle, trailer it self. So sometimes when something fails. we need to ask. Did we over load the thing?? i've heard ppl anchor things just right but over load them. So that becomes User fault.
How shall we repair this type of failure as Concrete Breakout because of anchoring near the edge ? Grouting is enough or not ? also I want toknow how much is the minimum distance between the anchor bolt and the edge ? Thank you for your response
Noncount (or uncountable) nouns exist as masses or abstract quantities that cannot be counted. They have no plural form. Although most English nouns are count nouns, noncount nouns frequently occur in academic writing. Academic writing is a formal style of writing used in educational settings, such as universities, colleges, and research institutions. It's used by students, professors, researchers, scientists, and literary critics. Academic writing aims to present ideas clearly so that others can learn from and build on them.
To not fail something, there is a mathematic by which calculations must be done. Very simple. If engineering calculations are made correctly, then no way can it fail.
Here's an excellent video on the real life consequences of concrete anchor failures. "The Big Dig Ceiling Collapse: An Epoxy that took down a Tunnel Ceiling" th-cam.com/video/SxccLocBqbA/w-d-xo.html
Great video I would love to link it to our website. Gladly send you some funny videos of us doing pull tests of you would be ok with us linking the video
As a licensed professional engineer I can say you did an amazing job with this video. Also Simpson Strong-Tie also makes a really good software and is my preference for design and product selection.
Thanks for the comment Brad! We're currently working on our next video reviewing various structural shapes-hopefully we can get your seal of approval there too!
May I ask what tye software is called?
El
@@NoCrownNoWhereIsHardlyAKing simpson strong tie anchor designer
0
This was really interesting to watch as a hard surface concept artist for the game industry. It gave me some insight into how to better communicate believable patterns of both construction and damage.
That's amazing
Doscher-Design, we are always glad when our videos educate or like in this case inspire our viewers. Cheers
Thank you for making video games better.
No one asked, no one cares
@Doscher-Design I feel that, I'm still developing my own texturing workflow and I have a hard time figuring out how to texture damage in a way that looks good
Italian restaurant in Canberra, waiting for my wife to have dinner. This popped up on my TH-cam and I watched it without sound immediately sent to my best mate. Builder and my favourite apprentice in Sydney. Great work
Excellent presentation on anchors. In the past, I preferred using post install types. I found it easier to accurately place anchors when working on a flat finished slab. When using J Bolts, we used a template made from plywood with holes for the bolts. We would place template and bolts in concrete together; depth, spacing, final dimensions. in 1 step. We also had dimension points on template and outer forms. This helped getting accurate placement. Once the concrete has hardened, very difficult to fix an error. It was always less expensive doing it right, than having to fix it later.
Why can't more contractors be more like you, everytime I ask for cast in anchors, the anchors end in the wrong location. For post fixed anchors, the rebar always gets in the way later requiring modifications!
@@dimvolyThan you. We found out 'fixing' mistakes later cost lots of money. If we had time to fix, we had time to do it right first time.
Post installed are the way to go. Absolutely zero mistakes. It costs more to correct the mistakes of CIP than using post-installed.
@@sackerz9 Thanks for ocmment. Always cost more to fix mistakes.
I built some footings/bases for some very large planters and being an auto technician thought I would get some advice first, Which I sought from a guy in our village who designs big civil engineering stuff docks,quays,bridges etc.over a couple of pints in our local pub. Following his tips and adding my own idea by constructing a welded framework of 3/4" rebar to hold the fixings so the load is spread more evenly through the concrete base. Later when he came by I proudly showed him them,he said that they were far too big and his quick estimate reckoned the fixings offered about 40-50 ton of clamping force and that combined they could support one end of a typical pedestrian overpass🤣🤣🤣.They are still there though😁
You got photos or info on your project somewhere? Sounds quite impressive!
@@jesseharris6466 I can't do stuff like that😂,anything practical comes naturally to me but,uploads,downloads and the like are beyond the scope of my social media interest.
Lol those are basically anchor points for a small wired telecom tower, but hey it works!
Call it future proofing. You don't know what else you plan on adding later, but you are ready for it.
I don't see a problem
Very concrete explanation.
He would be a great anchor 😝
He nailed it!
I'm just a homeowner diy-er and was looking for which anchors i should buy for my aluminum pergola and i ran into this video....my head just exploded.
Now I'll never be too sure in the way i install this pergola 😅
Awesome video though. 2 thumbs up!
Thank you for an informative video that helps explain the data sheets that suppliers post on their websites. I have been trying to investigate the differences between wedge anchors and drop in anchors as to their abilities to suspend loads. Drop in anchors are industry standard in my trade, plumbing, for hangers, while wedge anchors are used mostly for mounting items to floors and walls. I have seen only a few times wedge anchors used to suspend items and wondered why they are not used ,ore often.
Expansion anchors are difficult to install overhead because of the hammering and using a torque wrench. Drop-ins are a slightly easier install, but their load rating is quite low. The superior product is a screw-in anchor like a Simpson Titen HD.
These videos are incredible - keep up the good work!!
Thanks, will do!
The most failure you get with the ones you screw in directly into the concret. If the temperatur gets low it gets even worse.
Hit ancor sometimes locked lose. They went into the drilled hole. The concrete sometimes has air gaps are non rebar or less cement. So the anchor locked in the hole. But didnt get a grip. He turn till eternity.
The glued ones are the strongest ones. If you clean the hole properly with a pump. Also it takes the most time to set, and fasten the grip. Normal temperatur 20-25 degree is 15 Minutes, 5-10 degree is 3-5 hours. We use them to fix robots and heavy maschines to the ground wall or ceiling.
If you have full material you can use Glaspatronen/capilar anchor. 😂😂😂 plase some in the hole and drill a screw,bolt or thread through. That will mix two chemical components. That will react and create a hold.
I saw some of this damage caused by myself attempting to install a car lift. It wasnt easy.
I installed the MAX JAX home garage car lift in my home, and I cant emphasize enough to make sure you know what your concrete design and thickness is beforehand.
When i started, after 2 different style sets of post installed anchors (fan-out and adhesive) not being able to be torqued, I later learned it was because of the shallow depth the garage pad has.
1977 home in AZ. non tension garage slab.
Fan-out anchors would exceed the thickness of the concrete causing it to slide in and out of the properly drilled hole size.
Adhesive anchors are unable to utilize the adhesive even with proper application of the adhesive.
The surface area of the anchor needing to embed in the adhesive id extending past the body of the existing concrete in 5 out of 10 locations of anchors for the 2 posts.
I knew I had to make a new hole in the ground of the garage in order to properly install the lift posts.
I cut out a 12'7" x 3' rectangle where I want the car to be centered in the garage.
The chunks of concrete I pulled out showed how uneven the entire garage pad is underneath.
I dug a hole to 18" deep and 45deg angle up away from the bottom to meet up its angle to the underside of the existing concrete creating a V shape with a 12'7" x 3' flat bottom.
I built a rebar cage filling the flat space with 12 points hammered into the ground 24"
I built a bracket that can hold up the new set of MAXJAX adhesive style anchors for a cast-in place solution allowing a 1cm lip above the floor level.
3 cubic yards of 4000psi with fiber mesh filled the hole and I used a vibration tool to make sure to get air out of the underside of the existing concrete for the V shape.
Once finished, the lift worked perfectly and level in all directions as well as perfectly parallel to each other.
Looking back, I wish I modified the anchors for more surface area to hold in place by welding a large washer to the bottom of them.
The feet for the posts have 5 bolts each with washers torqued to 90flbs per the MAXJAX specs.
Bolt specs are:
Diameter: 7/8"
Length: 6.25"
Tread depth: 15"
Drill required: 7/8"
The point of this story is check your concrete strength and design before doing any work.
I was lucky I had a budget for my project car to cover this unforeseen added cost and I was able to finish the install.
@@8bit_bryan great point
I have had to reattach several handrails that had broken the corner off the concrete. I drilled and installed some direct into concrete screws into the remaining good concrete. I also drill into the remaining and use either drop in anchors or wedge type anchors with coupling nuts and all thread to come up thru the replacement pour. So I am anchoring the hand rails deeper and the screws sticking up give the pour something to bite onto better. I dont always have the option to redo it with new stairs or slabs.
With increasing popularity of the home shop car lift that is retrofit bolt down installation, people really need to do some research. A two leg lift hoisting a 5000 vehicle 5' in the air is going to present a lot of prying force. Coupled with often unknown concrete conditions and it's all coming down
I have no need for this knowledge but I enjoyed learning it.
This is a pretty good high level overview. Nice job.
thank you!
Apparently most of this program didnt provide the stiffener, using built up stiffener to reduce arm length from anchor to flange could significantly reduce plate thickness. I suggest calculate it using plate yielding when it comes to optimized plate thickness
I have no need to know this, but now I do. Much obliged!
jackhammering concrete with jackhammer, you space your holes so to take advantage of the spall that occurs when you punch a hole through it, just like a bullet, it pushed out a cone on the bottom end, catch that cone and its easier to break as you go, go beyond the cone of spall, then your going through the entire slab again and again. the difference between working hard and making progress and just plain working hard.
Thanks for the video....Peikko Designer also great to use for designing fasteners and its free.
Here we also have FIXPERIENCE by Fischer.
ha! Do you use a lot of Fischer products?
Neatly explained ! Thank you
very interesting.
Thank you!
Other Anchor Manufacturers which offer design software are Fischer and Würth
Thanks for the info Daniel!
Not an issue if the load is below the rated Maximum Capacity..
No amount of design or material can prevent anchor failure if load is in the excess..
Now, I am stressed out if I have set my ankers to tight with the post base...
Please let me know which program you used to create these illustrations. ❤
I always see handrail anchors breaking out the edges of concrete...
Could this be a freeze thaw issue as well in colder climates?
If you used an epoxy anchor system would this prevent water and ice from freeze thaw integration?
It might... but often the concrete is too narrow to receive the load without failure. A very common weak point of designs
great work
Thank you! Cheers!
Nice!
Thanks!
You forgot through bolts. They are the strongest
How would Epoxy on the concrete surface under metal plate help strengthen the hold on the anchors
It wouldn't. I don't think they were inferring that either.
Timing 5-40 - shoulder of strength 3 inch, not 0.25
3 inches = 0.25 feet (quarter of a foot)
ALL I CAN SAY IS US AS CRONCRETE CREWS WE FOLLOW WHAT IS ON THE PRINT SORRY FOR CAPS I PLAY GAMES
Nice video up until pounds and feet and inches came into play. Almost all engineers in the world use the metric system.
Thanks for the comment Sven. Here in Canada we use both metric and imperial.
It's quite common here to need both systems, and often simultaneously.
There are hundreds of thousands of engineers here in the U.S.A. that don't though, while also learning from English video content. This while many that use metric, may not understand English language videos such as these.
Any good engineer should understand both units of measurement when helped set up 40 - 50 tonne grain silos on farm have circular ring diameter silo that need fixing to concrete slab they be approx 20 feet in diameter concrete reinforced with weld mesh 4 inches thick in middle deeper where support ring about 8 inch deep long J bolts put in wet concrete at least 6 inches in concrete to turn it clamps just had draw to circles for positioning made J large to hook under the mesh manufacur of silo recommend 1/2 inch I went up to 5/8 also they only recommended 4 mounting point I went 8 concrete nearly cost as much silo
Anybody use simpson titen hd bolts? I used the 304 stainless 1/2 x 6 and they seem solid. Used them to hold post bases for a deck and outdoor shower surround. Anybody have issues with them?
That is a great product.
@@sackerz9 mine holding up like Champs
Engineering is complex, now tell me how it works in imperial 😂
No wonder why the concrete anchors fails, a proper engineer uses the metric system just like the rest of the world.
👍🤠🎉👌
all good until we got to calculations using pounds and feet. It isn't 1950s anymore.
w
Good video, except that engineers don't spend to much time on these connections as a general rule. 99% just cut and paste, let's not play up this as some burdening science. It's literally cut and paste.
And when engineers are in doubt? ....just double the safety factor ...so again, let's not over state the actual intelectual input that engineers actually apply to these to these connections.
The premium speedboat expectably fetch because french prenatally empty around a impartial whip. exciting exclusive, aloof john
As of medication within the system of paradigms, you lack the supply.
Hence the famous movie quote "We're gonna need a bigger bolt". Who knew Jaws was an engineering movie?
haha exactly!
explanation is simple and concise.
thank you.
wonderful after images and failure animation too.
Thank you for the nice words Infinity, it means a lot to us and encourages us to do more!
Stereotypically TH-cam is 90% men, and these are the things that we watch.
Tick tock is 90% women more or less, it is scary to think of the things women are taking in
I've been a drafter specializing in precast concrete structures for the past few years, and I like the way the info in this video was presented. I'd love to see a video on concrete embeds and prestressing strand. But for now I'm off to watch any other videos you have.
Watching while on your lunch break 👀
I don't do civil or concrete, but my bet as an electrical engineer with a materials background:
Best anchor: welded to the steel reinforcement or glued to whatever other reinforcement. All other anchors subject concrete to tension.
Considerations, Specifications for anchor bolts via use of concrete: no to be used when vibrations and exposure to freezing temperatures are present…in time they such type of anchorage will fails. (vibrations will be a pulverizing action between the bolts threads and the holding concrete…freezing temperatures will act as a expansion and contraction of water moisture between the bolt and holding concrete reducing the holding strength bolt-concrete to failure.
I appreciate the information . I was once told by my brother of a failure of structure that the root cause was where the rebar placed in the concrete was not correct . It was at the wrong dept in the concrete . Not shocking news but it was important to note how placement of the rebar effects the load handling of concrete
You can engineer the Hell out of any design, but it will always be installed by a underpaid, minimum waged, under educated, inexperienced labourer, while texting (on a Friday afternoon, on a payday).
I install anchors that have been engineered and I do not meet your criteria. I am well paid, educated and a experienced plumber, who comes to work not text.
A problem I have is engineering that doesn’t come to site more than twice and expects there to be no problems.
I didn't learn anything new.
That has me relieved because I studied this shit too 😂
(other than the available software that was nice)
Great presentation!
Man, the imperial system sucks...
Ft and FT in one equation... I wonder how buildings even make it over their first decade over there...
The Engineers on Boston's Big Dig learned the hard way about proper anchoring. That's why I don't like using adhesives. At least not on suspended loads. You have to understand creep and make sure you selected not only the proper adhesive, but also educate the contractor who will be using it as well. Dust that isn't cleaned out of drill holes is a big problem with adhesives. Especially when the anchors are installed on a suspended concrete panel weighing over 50 tons. They killed one and injured another in a car that was driving through the tunnel, and it was all due to creep. That kind of thing should not happen. Simple errors can and will lead to disaster, followed by a failure analysis contractor going through your designs with a fine tooth comb.
Amazing video, Dude. You're killing it
thank you!
Great explanation. Don't forget cleanliness of the hole. Gotta blow it out....
7 whole minutes on concrete anchors. I needed this
Both concrete and steel anchors are kind of amazing. Years ago, I remember going through the design documents for an I-beam being anchored vertically UPWARDS into a concrete slab. The I-beam would later have a small crane installed that slide along it. It was designed for something like a maximum load of 1.7t and the individual expanding anchor bolts were rated for something like 3t each and there were around 4 or 8 of those. I actually held the anchors in my hands and while they looked and felt very solid and strong, I had trouble getting my human intuition to wrap around the idea that the concrete around it wouldn't give way and allow the whole thing to come down at some point. I recall they had a force meter and measured the amount of load the anchors could handle (post install) and it was within the engineer's specifications so the installation was approved.
I guess what I take away form it all is that you can't rely on appearances or intuition to judge whether something is structurally sound. You need materials and fasteners that are built to meet or exceed the required standards, you need correctly designed engineering drawings backed by accurate calculations and data and you need competent tradespeople to build or install something the right way without taking shortcuts or making mistakes.
Thanks for the explanation/information I work in the rope access field and this helps a lot to keep remembering all this types of works
Glad it was helpful!
And the simple solution is leave concrete to the Greeks and build everything out of medium carbon steel or 316 stainless
You have done an amazing job! You have shown the impact engineering can have in solving global problems. Bravo for your hard work and dedication!
Very nice and short, and perfectly illustrated, thank you.
Glad you liked it!
Thank you for the educational information video.
Our pleasure! Hope you enjoyed it.
Thanks especially for the math. Math for these subjects is greatly under-appreciated. I over the weekend, I was installing a handrail for my swimming pool - it bolts to the concrete on the edge of the pool and has a massive 48" overhang out over the underwater steps. So the leverage on it is huge and I worried that the four drop-in anchors provided with the kit might be insufficient. I did the math for a 300lb person leaning on the end of the handrail - and looked up the specs on those anchors - and...holy cow...nowhere near enough! So I got some 1/2" undercut anchors and was happily installing them when I found that the holes in the base plate of the handrail were a little too small. So...drill them out - right? Well, it's a 5mm stainless steel plate and I wrecked three drill bits trying to do that! So, score 10/10 for the math, 1/10 for my own materials knowledge!
Nicely done, at least you won’t have to worry about it. Recently had to enlarge the holes in a cast iron hanger to do something similar; certainly easier than stainless. The trick with any metal cutting or drilling is to use cutting & tapping fluid, it cools and slightly lubricates the part & bit you’re using, which makes it much more efficient. Also, speed is not helpful - gear down the drill and start really slow. Once you get started you can sped up a little. You know you’re doing it perfectly when the steel peels up in those little rinds - swarf I believe it’s called - rather than little chips. Same with pressure, less is better, you don’t have to bare down on the drill. Have found these steps work for me so far, they make it faster believe it or not - and with less failures.
OR... Don't bolt crap to concrete!
Build things to sit stable, rather than being 3 stories tall with a narrow base.
25% of problems engineers solve are caused by other engineers, 75% are caused by architects.
You would suggest a builder NOT anchoring a house to a foundation, and rather "build things to sit stable"? 🤡
4:54 The prying distance is 1 feet 😒 🤔. Credibility has left the building.
Bruh, I just wanna bolt my motorcycle tire changer down to the garage slab. Now YT thinks I aspire to structural engineering. ;)
Along the way I realized the 7/16” wedge anchors the Pittsburgh tire changer manual recommends functionally don’t exist. That’s Harbor Freight junk for you. I’m going with 3/8”drop-ins anyway since I didn’t exactly ask the landlord for permission. Still: Anyone know why 1/2” and 3/8” are the only common sizes for drop-in and wedge anchors at at North American contractor suppliers and hardware stores? Heck, even AMZN/eBy/AliEx.
Figured someone here might actually know! :)
The load capacities are not different enough to justify yet another fastener diameter
@@41divad thanks! I was hung up on getting the largest bolts that fit the holes and 1/2” was slightly too big. Didn’t want to drill them out so I went down to 3/8”.
A very interesting thing to observe about the anchoring mechanism it is its capacity to (if its properly designed) to act as a fuse, locating the damage due seismic or dynamic loads in the anchors.
Nice video by the way
Good video, I use drop ins during concrete core drilling and always wondered what kind of failures could occur but I didn't think of how many there could be.
very impressive demonstration.
Further more comprehensive videos will be awaited on "Anchors"
Back in my boilermaker days doing Field construction I got excellent results from hilti Anker products. Dispite the plant guys hitting the beam Anker's with the forks on they're fork trucks
A very good presentation! Thank you for the clear and concise explanation. Your animations were particularly well done. You are a gifted communicator.
agreed !
How do they account for quality control in the metal and concrete? Are there some statistical analysis(fudge factor) built into the engineering calculations for less than average quality metal or concrete? Also, has non-destructive testing of metal and concrete changed with new technologies? My dad was an engineer and they had x-ray contractors come in at night to X-ray the welds on pressure vessels. Neat stuff to think about.
Quality control for steel is based on the varying testing agencies used in steel testing and qualifications. Like ISO9000. Testing of concrete is done on sight with a core sample and is standard for code approval. Also, the testing standard for concrete anchors is a 4x factor of safety, meaning manufacturers test their anchors to failure and then divide that number by 4. So, a test failing at 10,000 pounds would have a printed load rating of 2500lbs. Hope that helped.
And if you can't afford an engineer, talk to multiple people who have knowledge of the construction parameters, and over-engineer it. Alot of times, it's cheaper than hiring an engineer. Like me for example, I'm a poor farmer. I'm doing an oddball case of converting two grain bins into one, doubling some of the sheets, and making it higher. I'm updating the anchoring system to ones that are better, but using less of them. Even doubling what one person recommends for anchors, costs me around $84 more in materials. The whole project is probably going to be 12k. It's cheap insurance. Same with the rebar in the foundation, the thickness of the pad, etc. It doesn't amount to a whole lot more, and you know you're within spec. The manual calls for 6" interior pad thickness, go 8". Rebar 18" OC, go 14". But, don't always trust contractors to give you a reliable answer, even if they are a professional, and its what they would do on a commercial project. One grain bin contractor I talked to, recommended a rebar layout that was WAY under spec of what manuals recommend. These are people doing jobs much more expensive than mine, and apparently, they cut materials to save costs. In addition, who even knows if they would always adhere to rebar clearance from ground, so you have long term service of the foundation due to decreased risk of oxide jacking? Do your research, and you'll probably be further ahead.
I'm having difficulty finding out if the anchors I purchased for my car lift are right. I have purchased 14 Hilti HIT-ZR stainless steel anchors bolts size 3/4"x9 3/4" long. My concrete is 8 inches deep with rebar, 4000 psi concrete, and fiber strand added to concrete. Anyway, I want to use them with the Hilti HY-200R adhesive. The Challenger lift company sell ANKR-RITE wedge anchors with the lift. I've read a lot of negative reviews on wedge anchors. I've read chemical anchors are the way to go. How can I figure out if the Hilti Anchors are acceptable for my application?
Being a psychology grad from a family of engineers I thoroughly enjoy your content to relax before bedtime
Can we "add " the required grout mix under the post plates in the animation? Grout, meaning "cement grout," is due to viscosity, allowing it to fill all the voids due to its minuscule solids size. Any grout material, properties, strength, curing time, etc., have a range of preferred uses and methods, some good enough for standard baseplates and/or for the amount of material. Construction point of view - it fills all the gaps between the base plate and the concrete surface. No two surfaces will ever be fully "flush" with each other.
Design point of view - it stops the bolt from bending for any shear forces on the bolt.
Just found ur4 channel my bro. Very interesting stuff. So I have a question if u have a spare minute to help me my friend. Notice I just called u my friend? I swear I'm not trying to butter u up mate.. LOL
Genuine question though.
So I have a small woodworking shop. I need to get Timber products up high onto the walls so I can have more space on the floor area..
I have put an order in for some 80mm Long Shield Anchor Loose Bolts, It says M8 X 25mm x 80mm.. Now it says they are 80mm long so could u explain the M8 X 25mm part of this description. I know the M8 is the size/OD? but where does this 25mm bit come into the equation??
So If I can explain what it is I want to build with these bolts if that's ok.
I'm making my own brackets, welding them to be honest. I8'm new to all this stuff. haha! Maybe I should just buy the brackets as well.. ?? LMAO
Sorry man. I just had a vision after telling u I was gonna weld the brackets myself even though I have little experience, and they're going to be holding my timber boards up on this wall.. LOL Yeeeeeah!!! Sounds more and more like I might be buying the brackets as well..
My apologies my friend. I really am asking u the questions about the bolts and how u calculate the loads b'cos it's not something u get told by the suppliers of these products. When u ask them the question they baulk at u like there are 2 blue moons in the sky..
I actually very much enjoyed ur video on this subject man. Have u got more on the same subject matter? I guess after subbing and liking the video I will share as well now my bro. Thanks in advance f u have a moment to answer my questions.
Take care dude..
I came to see the thumbnail, and once again was clickbaited.
👎🏼
Will be reporting this vid.
I cannot and will not stand for false images and clickbait.
Can somebody please help me by answering a simple question?
I’m install a tv bracket onto my brick fireplace. I’m using 1/4” Titen screws. What size pilot hole should be pre-drilled? Do I even need to use a pilot hole?
The _"other"_ hub lol
hah
sometimes it isn't material fault. I like to give an example from automotive industry. When truckers haul over loaded gargo that really can damage and harm the vehicle, trailer it self. So sometimes when something fails. we need to ask. Did we over load the thing?? i've heard ppl anchor things just right but over load them. So that becomes User fault.
How shall we repair this type of failure as Concrete Breakout because of anchoring near the edge ? Grouting is enough or not ? also I want toknow how much is the minimum distance between the anchor bolt and the edge ? Thank you for your response
Good video- focuses on teaching you HOW to think about the subject, not WHAT to think.
5:42 I don't understand how prying force is amplified by a factor of 16? where you get that from?
The shapes of these anchors sucks. No wonder they fail...they don't makes as much use of the compressive strength of concrete...
Excellent information, presentation, graphics.
thanks!
how do you do your animations? I like the coffee color background and the font and would like to make my own notes look like that.
Nicely presented (though software is a collective/uncountable noun)
Why not layer concrete? Like a 2" layer on a 2" layer on a 2" layer?
Can the heat/speed from the drill have any effect?
More concrete videos ..I subscribed and notification Bell's to see if you have more in future
Thanks Gurvir, more videos will come. Meanwhile, you can check out our video on stirrups in concrete beams.
This the one side of TH-cam that I like I was not aware of this information and I would like to say thank you very much
Our pleasure!
Wow great info on anchors!
BTW, software is an uncountable noun, as in it can't end in a plural.
Noncount (or uncountable) nouns exist as masses or abstract quantities that cannot be counted. They have no plural form. Although most English nouns are count nouns, noncount nouns frequently occur in academic writing.
Academic writing is a formal style of writing used in educational settings, such as universities, colleges, and research institutions. It's used by students, professors, researchers, scientists, and literary critics. Academic writing aims to present ideas clearly so that others can learn from and build on them.
Excellent video! We highly recommend post installed anchor bolts with chemicals as epoxy grout. Thanks for your video.
Just a friendly correction. The use "Softwares" should be replaced by "applications" or "software applications". Thank you for the video.
Yes, you are right. Thanks for the comment Rob
typical blahblah of someone which never work in tereain....
To not fail something, there is a mathematic by which calculations must be done. Very simple.
If engineering calculations are made correctly, then no way can it fail.
Especially since the factor of safety in concrete is 4x.
Here's an excellent video on the real life consequences of concrete anchor failures. "The Big Dig Ceiling Collapse: An Epoxy that took down a Tunnel Ceiling" th-cam.com/video/SxccLocBqbA/w-d-xo.html
Great video I would love to link it to our website. Gladly send you some funny videos of us doing pull tests of you would be ok with us linking the video
@@windowwiz100 we would love that. You can write to us at: theengineeringhub2019@gmail.com