00:03 Fixing a 3080 TI from PNY that broke while idling 03:12 Impressed with the ease of disassembly 09:16 Discussion on the components and diagnostic process of the 3080Ti 11:56 DIY modification using sandpaper to make M3 standoff fit M2 card holes 16:58 Swapping graphics card to 3080 Ti in BIOS setup 20:17 Troubleshooting and testing GPU performance for artifacts 26:32 Assembly of the 3080Ti is smooth and enjoyable 29:03 Achieve optimal performance by ensuring hot spot and memory temperatures are similar 34:38 Showing a 3080 Ti with LED lights 37:03 Sharing information about 3080Ti fix
I used to work in PCB assembly plant, and they stopped using lead solder because of the health issues that they could cause to the operators. Some bits were manual soldering and other bits were done by machines.
Your videos have literally inspired me to learn soldering. Picked up a cheapish starter kit and plan on tearing down and practicing repair on some of my old parts ill never use again. Keep up the A+ work, and i greatly admire your incredibly honest and fair business strategy. Especially these days when times are tough for the bulk of us. I see people shaming you for not charging enough, but don't seem to realize not everyone needs to be wealthy. Just enough to continue our passions and live without stress.
You should never work for free, period. I haven't seen a single YT "fixer" that offers no fix, no fee. There is a well known repair guy in the UK that charges minimum £60 per hour, plus components. This is highly skilled work, (if done properly), and your work is first class. Don't sell yourself short. Start charging a minimum price, just for looking at these things, then charge per hour. Your videos speak for themselves. Keep up the excellent work Tony 👍👍👍
@@rateater420he charges shipping and such but lewis runs a company that makes decent cash, big difference from just losing your job and hoping fixing video cards on TH-cam works out. But no fix no fee really doesn't hurt the business too badly as long as they pay the shipping.
Hmm.. I welcome the challenge; I'm quite confident that I can locate a TH-cam repair engineer who offers free services on an Nvidia GPU board. Just allow me a few mins, I'll be back, while waiting hit my S-button. 🙄
Impress myself sometime, I've got a handle on a guy by the name of, NorthridgeFix. In a video about Nvidia GPUs released five days ago with this TH-camr highlighted that certain users received both a cost-free repair and free shipping.
I had one customer who said their computer screen would go black, just by grabbing any window, and shaking it on the desktop. Sounded really odd to me. Then i saw the PSU Geek Squad put in his PC. It was an Apevia 500 watt. His problem was it couldn't handle 300 watt. The 1080 video card was starving to death, and even 2-D was enough to frack everything.😂 If all i had was a 1080 staring up at me, i would not have found anything wrong.
I find weak or insufficient power supplies in alot of computers I fix, just had an old vega 64 and it was running on a 550 watt, customer said it went black screen and the gpu fan would go 100%. 😂
i personally have an apevia 520w and i don't see how the hell it crashed. the 1080 draws 175, and any ok CPU draws anywhere from 95-135 watts, which is far under the power draw limit. I personally used an rx 580 on my PSU that draws way more than a 1080, and it ran just fine.
@@gargolgaming8101 The one I worked on had a vega 64 and a 5700g, wall power only registered 440 or so tops, 550 watt p.s. which happened to be an apevia oddly would run fine under less demanding games and black screen and fan would go 100%, replaced with a 750 and it runs fine. Power supply tested fine, I put it in my potato test computer with a 5500xt.
@@gargolgaming8101 Simple. Inline watt meter didn't lie. I changed nothing else but his PSU. I flipped him into a used Rosewill semi-modular 750, for 20 dollars, and didn't charge for install. That solved the problem. No more crashing. The apevia 500w had a strange smell, like bad clutch pads. If you got lucky, well enjoy it.
I'm pretty sure Greta was around 3 years old when RoHS was enacted. And the issue isn't lead-free solder _per se_ (of which there are multiple types - some significantly better than others), it's the fact that some manufacturers try to use the cheapest one they possibly can. Leaded solder is still allowed (even for industrial production) as long as manufacturers prove that (even good) lead-free solder isn't as reliable for their application, and commit to collecting and recycling the products they sell. A lot of medical equipment still uses leaded solder. Manufacturers who just want to sell their stuff and let others deal with the waste are (and should be) required to use lead-free.
LIke he said, unfortunately she's not the real source either. She's another consequence. You're not allowed to name the source on these platforms because they're so powerful that you can't talk about how powerful they are, while telling us that they have no power. ;) I believe Voltaire said something about that.
"A lot of medical equipment still uses leaded solder." Don't know how it it in USA but in Europe there is strong rumors it will be a ban for med equipments as well. We use lead-free for everything anyway.
@@TinMan445Not necessarily. I learned how to build a PC by simply reading and looking at pictures. I have never messed up anything but then again I know to be very careful and take certain precautions, also not to f**k with stuff if things are already working properly. These types of videos can be invaluable for learning, just you know some people shouldn't open things up or mess with stuff as they just don't have the patience or delicateness at all.
mine any kawpow algorythm with it, that cranks the core and memory to max. If that passes, and no visual issues in win, i'd consider it perfectly fine. Users have messed up systems, dirty dusty/greasy pcie connectors with dog fur and halfway plugged 8pins, but you are super precise to approach even a perfect card from the perspective that it might be shorted. Respect, i learned a lot again :)
Been watching your videos for a while, more entertaining than some other content creators with "north" in their name. I know nothing about electrical repair, but I find your videos soothing and enjoy watching them. Just subscribed. Thanks for all the content.
Thankyou for making these videos my brother. I am a repair technician in Zimbabwe , and although we don't have these high power cards here, these are increasing my confidence when fixing the slower/cheaper cards.
100% correct. The PNY cards are the same/identical as the Gainward, Palit & several others that use the Nvidia reference design sent out to the OEM’s. Made in same factory (obviously) & only differences are the VBIOS & stickers. I recently took my PNY 3080ti card apart to repaste/change pads & the X grace screws were literally able to be turned by light finger pressure! Once I had changed the pads/paste (used 18W/kM pads from Temu!!! & Noctua NT-H2 paste), the core temps reduced by 22C & fans speed did not ramp up automatically to 60% when on auto & now barely break 40% when gaming for a while. Hotspot delta was approaching 20C difference to the core before, but once reassembled, it is now 10-12C instead (would prefer 8-10C but happy enough). The fan connectors are a pain in the posterior I agree (I used a pair of very fine tipped tweezers to remove the 2 fan connectors before taking the HSF off but the LED connector (for the GeForce illumination) came off quite easily in comparison! The paste coverage (from new) on the core was not sufficient either as was a lot of ‘clean’ areas on both the core & contact plate where there was no paste contact & no ‘pump out’ either. Was either a Friday afternoon card or the factory needs to increase the amount dispensed onto the core/contact plate.
I use a RTX 3080ti and the card runs hot. So, I copper molded it and now they work perfect. I have heard the cases against copper modding. But, I did not make a slurry of Thermal Paste all over. I strategically placed it on the ram chips. The card runs at least 35% cooler.
Ty for the new found information about the hot spot and the memory running at the same temperature and that there shouldn’t be 3 deltas on the temp and if you do have it then that’s a sure indicator that you need to replace the thermal pads on the memory. And while your doing that clean and reapply thermal paste to the core. I’ve always cracked them open . Never dawned on me to use the software side of things to identify worn out thermal pads. But in my defense back in late 90’s and up to 2012 there really wasn’t that much software available or accurate for such diagnosis. Either way TY sir for my new found knowledge. There was much more that I learned but thermal pads was the easiest to share. 🍻
on cheap cards, the memory can go higher than hotspot temps because the memory chips aren't cooled with any cooler. anecdotally, memory chips without coolers can perform as good or better vs memory chips attached to coolers. Some cards with inadequate or weak coolers just add more heat to the memory chips
Funnily enough, I've been buying Gigabyte boards for 25 years (my first Gigabyte was a Riva TNT2 M64), and I've never had any issues with them. They all worked flawlessly and still work to this day (yes, I still have them, I'm a collector), although, after all of these years, I did have to replace some capacitors due to the capacitor plague from '99 - '05. The only card that died on me was an MSI GTX 760 (artifacts consistent with faulty memory ICs), but MSI was very quick to replace the card and I still have its replacement which still works after 10 years.
Gigabyte WAS sweet, back when i had a Slot-A motherboard. Now they sell motherboards that are DOA. Disappointing, would be my word of choice for Gigglebutt.
I have various cards and boards from every manufacturer and they all still work to this day. Some still running OC'd daily in family systems. I really only starting seeing a notable quality drop into the DDR4 era.
@JJFX-, all electronic devices have a 1 - 3% failure rate. That's just how it is, how it's always been, and it will continue to be true in the future as well. You can't really judge a product because you happened to receive a DOA device. I can assure you that most Gigabyte motherboards, video cards are not DOA. 🙂
@@ruxandy It could be much more than 1 - 3% in Gigabyte's case. Because I got 2 Gigabyte B650M DS3H boards IN A ROW that had a memory VRM coilwhine issue, the third one didn't though. I'm pretty sure I just got really unlucky, and I still love Gigabyte's products, but anyway, this was my experience.
@@atirta777 , coil whine is a completely separate issue altogether (and one that is very difficult to pinpoint). Since I have hundreds of computer parts, I know the issue all too well, and what I've found is that a certain device/PC component can have coil whine when used in conjunction with certain other parts, and the same device might be completely silent on another PC, with different components.
They charge so much and still make them so cheaply because nvidia increasingly has reduced the margins for the card manufacturers. They tell them how much they are going to pay for the chips and how much they are going to sell the cards for. I think maybe because nvidia wants its founder's cards to be the best, or is wanting to take over all manufacturing eventually, or also maybe just because they can.
Just a little tip on these cards that you know is randomly crashing boot the card 3amp current limited if the draw is normal go straight to testing before you open it up.. In my experience in the case of cold solder joints flexing the board can temporarily fix the problem and take way more time than necessary.. Also could just be a thermal issue that could be easily diagnosed before you tear it down.. Personally I never take a card apart until it's power tested and if it passes then I'll test on the test bench to determine what the problem is.. In my opinion it's a way better than the route than you've been taking lol.. Like i said it just my opinion and everybody does things differently.. Anyways I enjoy the videos keep up the good work..
Trouble shooting step #1 no matter what is being tested is test as is to see the problem yourself... or not. Test drive the car or test the GPU? Doesn't matter, it should happen as is before any tools are out.
I also always start with a mild diagnosis and then gradually increase the level of diagnosis, but I enjoy watching this video so I can get to know more about the contains of various graphics cards.
Have you ever considered expanding outside of just GPU repairs? It seems like your advanced knowledge of circuitry would make repairing other electronics possible, such as older consoles, Mobos, and what not. You'll definitely stay busy, but more options should bring in more money, especially since you do amazing work.
Friday morning, my old Asus EAH 5850 had a short circuit, and burned up on the PCIe bus on the electric side, my computer shut down immediately, and luckily the Motherboard, CPU, Memory and the PSU were spared, good I was at home, and could fast remove the GPU from burning further. And the PCIe slot, after cleaning, still works. Thank god. I had plans to change this GPU anyway, so now I have to speed up things. Never had a GPU blowing up that way.
i have been hear from the beginning . i mean abou3k subs. and i have watched every video. i'm repairing laptops but very interested in gpus . love to see your channel grow.
Nice to see the same model that I own on your hands, and discovering good and bad things about it. Thanks as always for your video! Of course, thanks too to your funny comments, they make may day ;)
I have a Gainward 3080 which is basically exactly the same as this. Idle temps are 49(GPU), 62(memory), 63(hot spot), load are 79(GPU), 86(memory), 94(hot spot). Hotspot decently higher than memory. Also my 5600x was hitting 95C under load with the stock cooler. Now with Peerless Assassin around 60C load. I imagine it's because I live in Australia where even during winter I have a fan on in my room, so ambient temps ain't great.
I have a Zotac 3080 12gb, that i think have nice temp: idle: GPU: 41ºc hotspot: 47.5ºc mem: 48ºc , with load: 69ºc-70ºc, hotspot: 79-80ºc MEM:81-82ºc, never been open, i live in Portugal, summer is very hot, today specially (39ºc outside) - Lisbon, no AC at home, maybe 27º to 28ºc at home.
You are probably flooded by work after all these videos of successful repairs , we could use someone like you here in Slovakia. Great job. I got to learn a lot about cards....
Hello Tony (x5) Great video's! I always was interested in hardware more than software but didn't have the right equipment or patience like you. Really cool that you resurrect these cards from the dead and safe them from the junkpile ever growing larger. Big probs, you have a new subscriber, Greetings, The Internet
Hi, love the vids man, great job! on your select output problem, actually can do it via a switch, on your mobo you can force that your onboard display is always on with dedicated. then run a combiner switch to your screen so then you can switch between onboard and what ever is on the desk, i run multiple screen setups from my onboard and 3d card.
Lead free solder pre dates the Thunberg she's only 20 and had been a pain in the ass for less time than the ban , leaded solder is still in use in medical and military applications due to cost , lower melting piont higher wettability and increased strength
Personally, my experience is that Furmark generaly doesn't trigger random crashes. Haven't done it for some years now, but i think i remember sometimes getting crashes that would only trigger on certain conditions, like it might only trigger in one of Heaven, or 3DMark's Fire Strike or Time Spy... and then being random, having to leave each benchmark running for hours, to see if it happens... i think they might've cut down on the testing since then, something about AMD generally taking back "unstable cards" without needing tests.
¿ but i think i remember ? What kind of English is that ? Best you undertake an extensive reading program to learn - and become proficient in the English language. I have taught students age 8 who are academically more advanced than you. Also - learn how to format text and use paragraphs. Look in a diction-ary to learn what paragraphs are. Learn why text formatting is important and why you will find it in newspapers - magazines and books. Clearly - you do not have the ability to think and analyze for yourself - You do not pay attention to detail and are mentally lazy You were programmed to be a ZOMBIE ZOMBIES have eyes but cannot see - ears and cannot hear. Your experience is limited and has taught you very little. Read more to educate yourself to a higher level. Good luck and good bye. ## Replies are ignored as I am too busy with other matters. The observation remains FACT - so get the point - Educate yourselves
I don't know if that card produced a crash off screen while testing but if I have to guess, it did not. Anyway, I had some similar issue years ago with an pov gtx 570 and an older enermax psu. While idle it worked fine, when gaming, I had to limit every game to 60fps with vsync otherwise instant freeze. Turned out after swaping card, the psu simply was dying, a bunch of caps were swollen. Changed psu and put back card, everything worked fine. I bet, who ever owns this card, maybe has psu issues or a weakening board, as in idle the gpu pulls most power from the pcie slot. Maybe the psus 5v rail is weak or one of the 12v. I would suggest, just for testing, try different psu, doesn't need to have 800+ watts, just let pc with swapped psu sit on desktop. Wait if crash or no.
What's GRETA? Here in Europe we had the infamous RoHS directive twenty years ago that resulted in a tremendous downgrade on solder quality with electronic equipment since it came into force.
Weird crash symptoms on 3080(xx)? On mine it was simply that the card was either not aligned to the PCI slot or there was something funky with the edge connector. I have a MSI3080 Gaming X Trio and it would crash for no deducible reason when under load or from cold boot about 3 months after I installed it. Was about to send it back for warranty repair but figured I'd look into "variables" some more seeing as I"ve never had a beefcake GPU card before that NEEDED a support to hold it perpendicular in a slot before!!! I fixed it by cleaning the edge connector with DeOxit spray and made sure that it was reinserted and mounted "perfectly". Never had a problem since that "repair" and follow that "repair regime" every 12 months now... Go figure, eh?
Sad to hear what you said about Gigabyte video cards at the 4:28 time spot. I have had a Gigabyte 6750X for the past two years and have not had a single problem with it. What I do hate about video cards is that damn tab on the bottom side of the card that I believe is supposed to be some sort of latch to secure it to the mobo, but that is not the problem, what the problem is that movable latch on the mobo. And all the mobo's have that latch. Remove the latch or come up with a better ideal. Sorry for the rant, but the problem is not the video card, it is the stupid latch.
5:52 These vids are much more entertaining than I ever woulda thought 👀👏🏻 6:36 Revenge can be so sweet sometimes 😝 9:41 This is actually a real question, now we're seeing the inside of these things 🤔 and I know - because they can ✅ but hey, now we're seeing what they're actually doing 🔍👀
There is a quicker way to circumvent the change of choosing the display device. It just involves getting a second testbench with a second pci-e extender so all you need to do is switch the card in the slots :) Waste of money and might not be worth the investment, but in the long run I'd say it is as it saves much precious and valuable time.
I think it should be either with motherboard bios related or Power Supply related crashes. But usually the customer doesn't know such stuff and they end up sending the card for repair.
As a tech, I know that not finding anything wrong is sometimes worse to report to the customer then yes I found the problem and it will be a little costly to repair it, at least they have an answer.
Hello There, it's 6am , iam in Buenos Aires, Argentina, My neighbors stores alarm was trigged at 4 am , so idk WTF i am doing , lol but love your videos
Question: do you have a flat rate for fixing cards? If so I guess there's probably a question that always needs to be asked and that is: Does the cost of the repair exceed the cost of replacing it with a new or better card? I certainly would just throw away or donate cards that were over a certain age or cost level rather than pay to fix them.
I have a pny 3060ti that had such bad voltage drop on the pcie slot that i re routed the shunt to a separate 6 pin and added jumper wires all over the card. More caps only helped so much. But the card has a good core and decent memory so cant get everything i suppose
From what you said at start of video (typing this halfway through)with the fault described it sounds like the guy has Resizable Bar enabled in his BIOS as that is what these cards will do if it is enabled. I have been having a back & forth email ‘argument’ with PNY over this as I own the exact same card. They have VBIOS updates for all their cards apart from the 3080ti to enable ReBar support & according to their support, PNY have no intention of releasing an updated VBIOS to allow use of ReBar with these cards. They refuse to give an answer to why this is the case. Apparently the Palit VBIOS for their 3080ti will enable ReBar support but I am unwilling to do this with the price I paid for the card in May 22 (when the prices started coming down). They also say that no matter what the case is they will not honour any warranty if the stickers are damaged even though it is illegal to do that in most countries! When I enabled ReBar with my card, it would refuse to display anything for around an hour each time even after ReBar was disabled in the BIOS again. That made me think that they had some sort of temp killswitch built in or the capacitors held a charge for a while after booting (as leaving the card unplugged for an hour would mean it worked again). The card also runs hot even at stock settings although you can get a small OC on the card (+175 core/+450 VRAM) in Afterburner without the temps going off the scale (5-6°C increase). Anything more is completely unstable regardless of fan speeds. After the experience with PNY, I won’t be buying another one of their cards (last 2 cards were from them - 2070 & the 3080ti). Once the warranty has completely expired (will have to check exactly how long it is as PNY told me it was still covered even tho had it over a year), I will change the thermal paste & pads as I have a feeling that these will be part of the problem along with the generic cooling system they use. Even the power level slider is locked to 100% in Afterburner as they have configured the VBIOS to do so (PNY’s words) to stop people from having overheating issues. I just wish there was more 3rd party cooking solutions for GPU’s nowadays (non water cooling) as these cards could be improved greatly with a decent cooling solution fitted & a VBIOS that wasn’t so restricted. I am wondering if enabling ReBar in the PNY VBIOS caused overheating issues hence why they refuse to release an ReBar enabled version for the 3080ti? I even asked for a Beta VBIOS! PS, strange to see such a good retaining X plate on their CHEAPEST version of their cards!!!
Dude probably has an underpowered power supply! I've dealt with an issue like that trouble shooting a friends GPU that would randomly crash. Then out of curiosity, I looked at his power supply. It wasn't adequate for his system. We ordered a new one for him and installed it a few days later, problem solved.
Experience leads me to PSU is starting to fail. The card is not getting enough power and is shutting down. The other possibility is the motherboard PCIE slot is failing when the system warms up. The PSU for a RTX 3080 Ti is 850w, this is size I would recommend. This will allow for the cards power spikes. 🤓
I bought a new PSU to my son computer(850w corsair), because is corsair 650w was crashing with a 1080ti, 32 GB DDR4 and Ryzen 2600x, 3 hard disk, 1 SDD, 1 NVME, four 140 fan´s. This was after hi, swapped is 980gtx with the 1080ti. Fun fact, i thought the 1080ti was also bad, because, never imagined that 650w could not be enough for all the hardware he have in is computer, so i bought a new gpu (6750xt). the 1080ti is still good.
You should get some flat faced Fingernail Clippers for the plastic notches at 6:56 :) Much safer!!! And probably useful for other parts as well when you just need a clean cut.
Only problem is that PNY are not an “American” company, but mostly French using a Taiwanese factory to knock them out! PNY stands for ‘Paris New York’ where their offices are (main one is in France). All of their GPU’s use the basic Nvidia reference designs as well so they basically do nothing apart from buy the cards & VBIOS, and put them in their own branded boxes. This information was given to me by PNY’s Support team from the French office.
Looks like PNY made an excellent 3080 except for the fan plugins. Must have copied gigabit. Giggy should make one as well. Ya'll said the thermal was slightly dry, maybe that was the fault. Your work to replace the paste. Charge them for changing the paste as she will now run for a couple years non-stop if the temps keep down. With the doublers on Radeon running 100°c¿ Unless small aluminum coolers are emplaced. Seems like special coolers need applied on Radeon. Not sure they are made though. What is needed on Radeon doubters is really thick copper pads with thermal fins. Lots of mass and proper air flow. Someone might make the proper devise.
Have to admit, the PNY 3080ti I own is the easiest card to take apart to repaste/change pads that I have disassembled. Literally the 4 ‘X’ brace screws & a couple of smaller ones that connect the I/O plate & Heatsink to the card. Easier to unplug the fan connectors halfway with a pair of fine nosed tweezers before removing the heatsink as can only pull the connectors out part of the way when it is still assembled so not going to rip the actual female part of the connection off the board/pins. PNY 3080ti cards are made on the same production line as Gainward, Palit & a couple of the other smaller brands, with the only differences being the screenprinting on the card & the stickers used by the respective brands. You can use the VBIOS (apparently) from the Palit & Gainward cards without any issues at all or errors/warnings. The factory though is very frugal with the amount of paste used on the core thats for sure, as mine had a couple of completely clean areas on both the core & contact plate of the heatsink & there was ZERO pump out as well (which was my first thought that could be the issue when seeing over 20C delta & fans immediately spinning up to 60%+ once a load is placed on it (after the repaste/new pads, I now have a 10-12C hotspot delta under full prolonged load & VRAM is under 88C on 100% load after at least 30 minutes of stress testing it - compared to 98-108C before!!! Fans barely go over 40% now using idle with the stock fan curve from AfterBurner & no undervolt applied.
I always watch this while eating at my break at work, now my coworker think I know how to repair electronics, even tho I dont know shit. But I managed to repair some stuff and now I get even more requests at work, is this how it starts ?
Can anyone name the the true meaning (name) behind Pax? Google just sucks delivering the meaning of pax for electronics/ graphic cards. The only thing i'm able to find is the avionic explanation of pax which i'm not interisted in.... Thanks ❤
I find that extremely odd that you say people just reapply paste over the old dried out paste without cleaning it when i would think that just makes an interference layer to just make more thermal problems in my mind it also amazes me that the heat sinks are so large but such bad quality when better heat sinks would work more effectively
Looks like the customer or someone else other than the factory tried that as PNY (& the other cards that come from same factory) do not use double stacked pads or the green pads. every PNY card I have taken apart to repaste/change pads, all have had plain grey pads & minimal paste applied (mostly not enough with several clean areas on both core & heatsink contact plate along with no pump out of the factory paste in the ‘ditch’ on the GPU core substrate. the anti-tamper sticker on the ‘X’ bracket screw is easily removed & replaced with a pair of thin nose tweezers & a little care at least 3 times before it starts to not stick or the edges crinkle.
maybe the cables were not sitting right in the sockets and possibly arcing causing the gpu not working in idle , and you fixed it by reinserting them after you checked the gpu who knows.
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
00:03 Fixing a 3080 TI from PNY that broke while idling
03:12 Impressed with the ease of disassembly
09:16 Discussion on the components and diagnostic process of the 3080Ti
11:56 DIY modification using sandpaper to make M3 standoff fit M2 card holes
16:58 Swapping graphics card to 3080 Ti in BIOS setup
20:17 Troubleshooting and testing GPU performance for artifacts
26:32 Assembly of the 3080Ti is smooth and enjoyable
29:03 Achieve optimal performance by ensuring hot spot and memory temperatures are similar
34:38 Showing a 3080 Ti with LED lights
37:03 Sharing information about 3080Ti fix
lead-free solder + ball grid array = match made in hell. Has caused nothing but problems since it's inception.
I used to work in PCB assembly plant, and they stopped using lead solder because of the health issues that they could cause to the operators. Some bits were manual soldering and other bits were done by machines.
Your videos have literally inspired me to learn soldering. Picked up a cheapish starter kit and plan on tearing down and practicing repair on some of my old parts ill never use again. Keep up the A+ work, and i greatly admire your incredibly honest and fair business strategy. Especially these days when times are tough for the bulk of us. I see people shaming you for not charging enough, but don't seem to realize not everyone needs to be wealthy. Just enough to continue our passions and live without stress.
You should never work for free, period. I haven't seen a single YT "fixer" that offers no fix, no fee. There is a well known repair guy in the UK that charges minimum £60 per hour, plus components. This is highly skilled work, (if done properly), and your work is first class. Don't sell yourself short. Start charging a minimum price, just for looking at these things, then charge per hour. Your videos speak for themselves. Keep up the excellent work Tony 👍👍👍
Monetized Video with over 13,000 views so far... he isn't working for free.
Doesn't louis rossmann do no fix no fee? Or at least that's what I saw in one of his older videos.
@@rateater420he charges shipping and such but lewis runs a company that makes decent cash, big difference from just losing your job and hoping fixing video cards on TH-cam works out. But no fix no fee really doesn't hurt the business too badly as long as they pay the shipping.
Hmm.. I welcome the challenge; I'm quite confident that I can locate a TH-cam repair engineer who offers free services on an Nvidia GPU board.
Just allow me a few mins, I'll be back, while waiting hit my S-button. 🙄
Impress myself sometime, I've got a handle on a guy by the name of, NorthridgeFix.
In a video about Nvidia GPUs released five days ago with this TH-camr highlighted that certain users received both a cost-free repair and free shipping.
I had one customer who said their computer screen would go black, just by grabbing any window, and shaking it on the desktop. Sounded really odd to me. Then i saw the PSU Geek Squad put in his PC. It was an Apevia 500 watt. His problem was it couldn't handle 300 watt. The 1080 video card was starving to death, and even 2-D was enough to frack everything.😂 If all i had was a 1080 staring up at me, i would not have found anything wrong.
I find weak or insufficient power supplies in alot of computers I fix, just had an old vega 64 and it was running on a 550 watt, customer said it went black screen and the gpu fan would go 100%. 😂
i personally have an apevia 520w and i don't see how the hell it crashed. the 1080 draws 175, and any ok CPU draws anywhere from 95-135 watts, which is far under the power draw limit. I personally used an rx 580 on my PSU that draws way more than a 1080, and it ran just fine.
@@gargolgaming8101 The one I worked on had a vega 64 and a 5700g, wall power only registered 440 or so tops, 550 watt p.s. which happened to be an apevia oddly would run fine under less demanding games and black screen and fan would go 100%, replaced with a 750 and it runs fine. Power supply tested fine, I put it in my potato test computer with a 5500xt.
@@gargolgaming8101 Simple. Inline watt meter didn't lie. I changed nothing else but his PSU. I flipped him into a used Rosewill semi-modular 750, for 20 dollars, and didn't charge for install. That solved the problem. No more crashing. The apevia 500w had a strange smell, like bad clutch pads. If you got lucky, well enjoy it.
@@gargolgaming8101 the Power on a PSU is combined power on all Rails, even 5v Rail so maybe ur 12V rail has just 300w
The person who created those connectors that come off must be the same person who created USB 3 headers on motherboards LOL
lol right
whatever you do, the connector easily snap
I'm pretty sure Greta was around 3 years old when RoHS was enacted.
And the issue isn't lead-free solder _per se_ (of which there are multiple types - some significantly better than others), it's the fact that some manufacturers try to use the cheapest one they possibly can.
Leaded solder is still allowed (even for industrial production) as long as manufacturers prove that (even good) lead-free solder isn't as reliable for their application, and commit to collecting and recycling the products they sell. A lot of medical equipment still uses leaded solder. Manufacturers who just want to sell their stuff and let others deal with the waste are (and should be) required to use lead-free.
LIke he said, unfortunately she's not the real source either. She's another consequence. You're not allowed to name the source on these platforms because they're so powerful that you can't talk about how powerful they are, while telling us that they have no power. ;) I believe Voltaire said something about that.
@@VndNvwYvvSvv - Is it the lizard people? It's the lizard people, right? I knew it! Wait, what's that hissing behind me...?
@@RFC3514 LizardPeople, delicious
"A lot of medical equipment still uses leaded solder."
Don't know how it it in USA but in Europe there is strong rumors it will be a ban for med equipments as well. We use lead-free for everything anyway.
Thank you for making these videos man. It gives me a lot more confidence working more in depth in my own PC.
A future client appears
@@TinMan445Not necessarily. I learned how to build a PC by simply reading and looking at pictures. I have never messed up anything but then again I know to be very careful and take certain precautions, also not to f**k with stuff if things are already working properly.
These types of videos can be invaluable for learning, just you know some people shouldn't open things up or mess with stuff as they just don't have the patience or delicateness at all.
mine any kawpow algorythm with it, that cranks the core and memory to max. If that passes, and no visual issues in win, i'd consider it perfectly fine. Users have messed up systems, dirty dusty/greasy pcie connectors with dog fur and halfway plugged 8pins, but you are super precise to approach even a perfect card from the perspective that it might be shorted. Respect, i learned a lot again :)
XLR8 is pronounced as "accelerate". Cool name because it takes us back to the wildly successful Megas XLR cartoon which unfortunately got canceled.
Been watching your videos for a while, more entertaining than some other content creators with "north" in their name.
I know nothing about electrical repair, but I find your videos soothing and enjoy watching them. Just subscribed. Thanks for all the content.
NW repair is just a bro helping out a bro. I have mad respect
Thankyou for making these videos my brother. I am a repair technician in Zimbabwe , and although we don't have these high power cards here, these are increasing my confidence when fixing the slower/cheaper cards.
RTX 3xxx PNY, GAINWARD, PALIT is the same. Only diferent stickers on fans.
I heard same thing.
These brands are not common in the US by the way. More so in Europe
100% correct. The PNY cards are the same/identical as the Gainward, Palit & several others that use the Nvidia reference design sent out to the OEM’s. Made in same factory (obviously) & only differences are the VBIOS & stickers. I recently took my PNY 3080ti card apart to repaste/change pads & the X grace screws were literally able to be turned by light finger pressure! Once I had changed the pads/paste (used 18W/kM pads from Temu!!! & Noctua NT-H2 paste), the core temps reduced by 22C & fans speed did not ramp up automatically to 60% when on auto & now barely break 40% when gaming for a while. Hotspot delta was approaching 20C difference to the core before, but once reassembled, it is now 10-12C instead (would prefer 8-10C but happy enough). The fan connectors are a pain in the posterior I agree (I used a pair of very fine tipped tweezers to remove the 2 fan connectors before taking the HSF off but the LED connector (for the GeForce illumination) came off quite easily in comparison! The paste coverage (from new) on the core was not sufficient either as was a lot of ‘clean’ areas on both the core & contact plate where there was no paste contact & no ‘pump out’ either. Was either a Friday afternoon card or the factory needs to increase the amount dispensed onto the core/contact plate.
I use a RTX 3080ti and the card runs hot. So, I copper molded it and now they work perfect. I have heard the cases against copper modding. But, I did not make a slurry of Thermal Paste all over. I strategically placed it on the ram chips. The card runs at least 35% cooler.
Ty for the new found information about the hot spot and the memory running at the same temperature and that there shouldn’t be 3 deltas on the temp and if you do have it then that’s a sure indicator that you need to replace the thermal pads on the memory. And while your doing that clean and reapply thermal paste to the core. I’ve always cracked them open . Never dawned on me to use the software side of things to identify worn out thermal pads. But in my defense back in late 90’s and up to 2012 there really wasn’t that much software available or accurate for such diagnosis. Either way TY sir for my new found knowledge. There was much more that I learned but thermal pads was the easiest to share. 🍻
on cheap cards, the memory can go higher than hotspot temps because the memory chips aren't cooled with any cooler. anecdotally, memory chips without coolers can perform as good or better vs memory chips attached to coolers. Some cards with inadequate or weak coolers just add more heat to the memory chips
Funnily enough, I've been buying Gigabyte boards for 25 years (my first Gigabyte was a Riva TNT2 M64), and I've never had any issues with them. They all worked flawlessly and still work to this day (yes, I still have them, I'm a collector), although, after all of these years, I did have to replace some capacitors due to the capacitor plague from '99 - '05. The only card that died on me was an MSI GTX 760 (artifacts consistent with faulty memory ICs), but MSI was very quick to replace the card and I still have its replacement which still works after 10 years.
Gigabyte WAS sweet, back when i had a Slot-A motherboard. Now they sell motherboards that are DOA. Disappointing, would be my word of choice for Gigglebutt.
I have various cards and boards from every manufacturer and they all still work to this day. Some still running OC'd daily in family systems. I really only starting seeing a notable quality drop into the DDR4 era.
@JJFX-, all electronic devices have a 1 - 3% failure rate. That's just how it is, how it's always been, and it will continue to be true in the future as well. You can't really judge a product because you happened to receive a DOA device. I can assure you that most Gigabyte motherboards, video cards are not DOA. 🙂
@@ruxandy It could be much more than 1 - 3% in Gigabyte's case. Because I got 2 Gigabyte B650M DS3H boards IN A ROW that had a memory VRM coilwhine issue, the third one didn't though. I'm pretty sure I just got really unlucky, and I still love Gigabyte's products, but anyway, this was my experience.
@@atirta777 , coil whine is a completely separate issue altogether (and one that is very difficult to pinpoint). Since I have hundreds of computer parts, I know the issue all too well, and what I've found is that a certain device/PC component can have coil whine when used in conjunction with certain other parts, and the same device might be completely silent on another PC, with different components.
That EVE Online add on youtube brings back so many years of memories
They charge so much and still make them so cheaply because nvidia increasingly has reduced the margins for the card manufacturers. They tell them how much they are going to pay for the chips and how much they are going to sell the cards for. I think maybe because nvidia wants its founder's cards to be the best, or is wanting to take over all manufacturing eventually, or also maybe just because they can.
I have the 3080 from Pallit, and the same board, same design, memory temperatures are below the hot spot.
Just a little tip on these cards that you know is randomly crashing boot the card 3amp current limited if the draw is normal go straight to testing before you open it up.. In my experience in the case of cold solder joints flexing the board can temporarily fix the problem and take way more time than necessary.. Also could just be a thermal issue that could be easily diagnosed before you tear it down.. Personally I never take a card apart until it's power tested and if it passes then I'll test on the test bench to determine what the problem is.. In my opinion it's a way better than the route than you've been taking lol.. Like i said it just my opinion and everybody does things differently.. Anyways I enjoy the videos keep up the good work..
Will 17 likes do it ?
Trouble shooting step #1 no matter what is being tested is test as is to see the problem yourself... or not. Test drive the car or test the GPU? Doesn't matter, it should happen as is before any tools are out.
You do realize he is doing it not because he enjoys extra work , but for the show?
I also always start with a mild diagnosis and then gradually increase the level of diagnosis, but I enjoy watching this video so I can get to know more about the contains of various graphics cards.
Power testing first is a bit like just plugging in everything in your house to the same outlet. Eventually something bad is gonna happen lol
LOL I don't think Greta knew about Lead free solder. I wasn't made law until 2006, Greta was born 2003. Regardless, yes it is a pain in the arse!!
Have you ever considered expanding outside of just GPU repairs? It seems like your advanced knowledge of circuitry would make repairing other electronics possible, such as older consoles, Mobos, and what not. You'll definitely stay busy, but more options should bring in more money, especially since you do amazing work.
He actually does have a few videos repairing motherboards. Last one I saw he was fixing a broken DIMM slot.
Friday morning, my old Asus EAH 5850 had a short circuit, and burned up on the PCIe bus on the electric side, my computer shut down immediately, and luckily the Motherboard, CPU, Memory and the PSU were spared, good I was at home, and could fast remove the GPU from burning further. And the PCIe slot, after cleaning, still works. Thank god. I had plans to change this GPU anyway, so now I have to speed up things. Never had a GPU blowing up that way.
You are a hero of mine. Keep up the good fight.
i have been hear from the beginning . i mean abou3k subs. and i have watched every video. i'm repairing laptops but very interested in gpus . love to see your channel grow.
Nice to see the same model that I own on your hands, and discovering good and bad things about it. Thanks as always for your video! Of course, thanks too to your funny comments, they make may day ;)
I have a Gainward 3080 which is basically exactly the same as this. Idle temps are 49(GPU), 62(memory), 63(hot spot), load are 79(GPU), 86(memory), 94(hot spot). Hotspot decently higher than memory. Also my 5600x was hitting 95C under load with the stock cooler. Now with Peerless Assassin around 60C load. I imagine it's because I live in Australia where even during winter I have a fan on in my room, so ambient temps ain't great.
I have a Zotac 3080 12gb, that i think have nice temp: idle: GPU: 41ºc hotspot: 47.5ºc mem: 48ºc , with load: 69ºc-70ºc, hotspot: 79-80ºc MEM:81-82ºc, never been open, i live in Portugal, summer is very hot, today specially (39ºc outside) - Lisbon, no AC at home, maybe 27º to 28ºc at home.
Hello! Back from the UK! Your channel is amazing!!!!!
BTW, leaded solder has been banned for the most part in commercial products in the EU since 2006 with the RoHS guideline.
Added this card to my bucket list after seeing the teardown.
Yes we can hear you in Canada 🇨🇦
You are probably flooded by work after all these videos of successful repairs , we could use someone like you here in Slovakia. Great job. I got to learn a lot about cards....
Hello Tony (x5)
Great video's! I always was interested in hardware more than software but didn't have the right equipment or patience like you. Really cool that you resurrect these cards from the dead and safe them from the junkpile ever growing larger.
Big probs, you have a new subscriber,
Greetings, The Internet
In the early NASA missions, they had women calculating trajectories, they were known as computers!
Hi, love the vids man, great job! on your select output problem, actually can do it via a switch, on your mobo you can force that your onboard display is always on with dedicated. then run a combiner switch to your screen so then you can switch between onboard and what ever is on the desk, i run multiple screen setups from my onboard and 3d card.
0:11 You got me. Hello
Lead free solder pre dates the Thunberg she's only 20 and had been a pain in the ass for less time than the ban , leaded solder is still in use in medical and military applications due to cost , lower melting piont higher wettability and increased strength
Personally, my experience is that Furmark generaly doesn't trigger random crashes. Haven't done it for some years now, but i think i remember sometimes getting crashes that would only trigger on certain conditions, like it might only trigger in one of Heaven, or 3DMark's Fire Strike or Time Spy... and then being random, having to leave each benchmark running for hours, to see if it happens... i think they might've cut down on the testing since then, something about AMD generally taking back "unstable cards" without needing tests.
¿ but i think i remember ?
What kind of English is that ?
Best you undertake an extensive reading program to learn -
and become proficient in the English language. I have taught
students age 8 who are academically more advanced than you.
Also - learn how to format text and use paragraphs.
Look in a diction-ary to learn what paragraphs are.
Learn why text formatting is important and why you will find it
in newspapers - magazines and books.
Clearly - you do not have the ability to think and analyze for yourself -
You do not pay attention to detail and are mentally lazy
You were programmed to be a ZOMBIE
ZOMBIES have eyes but cannot see - ears and cannot hear.
Your experience is limited and has taught you very little.
Read more to educate yourself to a higher level.
Good luck and good bye.
## Replies are ignored as I am too busy with other matters.
The observation remains FACT - so get the point -
Educate yourselves
I don't know if that card produced a crash off screen while testing but if I have to guess, it did not.
Anyway, I had some similar issue years ago with an pov gtx 570 and an older enermax psu. While idle it worked fine, when gaming, I had to limit every game to 60fps with vsync otherwise instant freeze. Turned out after swaping card, the psu simply was dying, a bunch of caps were swollen. Changed psu and put back card, everything worked fine. I bet, who ever owns this card, maybe has psu issues or a weakening board, as in idle the gpu pulls most power from the pcie slot. Maybe the psus 5v rail is weak or one of the 12v. I would suggest, just for testing, try different psu, doesn't need to have 800+ watts, just let pc with swapped psu sit on desktop. Wait if crash or no.
What's GRETA? Here in Europe we had the infamous RoHS directive twenty years ago that resulted in a tremendous downgrade on solder quality with electronic equipment since it came into force.
10:00 I'm pretty sure they simply forgot to remove the tape on those thermal pads.
Weird crash symptoms on 3080(xx)? On mine it was simply that the card was either not aligned to the PCI slot or there was something funky with the edge connector. I have a MSI3080 Gaming X Trio and it would crash for no deducible reason when under load or from cold boot about 3 months after I installed it. Was about to send it back for warranty repair but figured I'd look into "variables" some more seeing as I"ve never had a beefcake GPU card before that NEEDED a support to hold it perpendicular in a slot before!!! I fixed it by cleaning the edge connector with DeOxit spray and made sure that it was reinserted and mounted "perfectly". Never had a problem since that "repair" and follow that "repair regime" every 12 months now... Go figure, eh?
Sad to hear what you said about Gigabyte video cards at the 4:28 time spot. I have had a Gigabyte 6750X for the past two years and have not had a single problem with it. What I do hate about video cards is that damn tab on the bottom side of the card that I believe is supposed to be some sort of latch to secure it to the mobo, but that is not the problem, what the problem is that movable latch on the mobo. And all the mobo's have that latch. Remove the latch or come up with a better ideal. Sorry for the rant, but the problem is not the video card, it is the stupid latch.
Using that tension plate is cheaper than 4 small coil springs.
The difference is you can install the plate incorrectly with the legs pointing down.
5:52 These vids are much more entertaining than I ever woulda thought 👀👏🏻
6:36 Revenge can be so sweet sometimes 😝
9:41 This is actually a real question, now we're seeing the inside of these things 🤔 and I know - because they can ✅ but hey, now we're seeing what they're actually doing 🔍👀
There is a quicker way to circumvent the change of choosing the display device. It just involves getting a second testbench with a second pci-e extender so all you need to do is switch the card in the slots :) Waste of money and might not be worth the investment, but in the long run I'd say it is as it saves much precious and valuable time.
I think it should be either with motherboard bios related or Power Supply related crashes. But usually the customer doesn't know such stuff and they end up sending the card for repair.
As a tech, I know that not finding anything wrong is sometimes worse to report to the customer then yes I found the problem and it will be a little costly to repair it, at least they have an answer.
Technically the plate would be an O shield, as it has no inputs.
Lead-free solder has been since 2000 and Greta is born 2003, so don't blame her 😁
Hello There, it's 6am , iam in Buenos Aires, Argentina, My neighbors stores alarm was trigged at 4 am , so idk WTF i am doing , lol but love your videos
You deserve waay more views, likes and subs, love your videos, keep on !
What is the video card plugged into at 14:34? Is it available to buy? Do you have a list of equipment that you use to work on video cards?
I have a Ryzen 7 pro 4750G SOC that bluescreens on TH-cam or Twitch. Anything else, works just fine.
I use it in a Plex server now. No problems.
I'm here man you scared the sh!t out of me when you stuck your head under the camera.
You gave me a flash back of the hyper 212 black that sliced my finger open big time. You gotta watch those fin stacks…
Question: do you have a flat rate for fixing cards? If so I guess there's probably a question that always needs to be asked and that is: Does the cost of the repair exceed the cost of replacing it with a new or better card? I certainly would just throw away or donate cards that were over a certain age or cost level rather than pay to fix them.
Thank you for the videos on cleaning and fixing GPU's, keep the work going dude. I would give you five likes but TH-cam allows only one.
I agree with mr. Wizard there is nothing wrong with the card but there is something wrong with the customer's system, that's for sure I say.
I have a pny 3060ti that had such bad voltage drop on the pcie slot that i re routed the shunt to a separate 6 pin and added jumper wires all over the card. More caps only helped so much. But the card has a good core and decent memory so cant get everything i suppose
From what you said at start of video (typing this halfway through)with the fault described it sounds like the guy has Resizable Bar enabled in his BIOS as that is what these cards will do if it is enabled. I have been having a back & forth email ‘argument’ with PNY over this as I own the exact same card. They have VBIOS updates for all their cards apart from the 3080ti to enable ReBar support & according to their support, PNY have no intention of releasing an updated VBIOS to allow use of ReBar with these cards. They refuse to give an answer to why this is the case. Apparently the Palit VBIOS for their 3080ti will enable ReBar support but I am unwilling to do this with the price I paid for the card in May 22 (when the prices started coming down). They also say that no matter what the case is they will not honour any warranty if the stickers are damaged even though it is illegal to do that in most countries!
When I enabled ReBar with my card, it would refuse to display anything for around an hour each time even after ReBar was disabled in the BIOS again. That made me think that they had some sort of temp killswitch built in or the capacitors held a charge for a while after booting (as leaving the card unplugged for an hour would mean it worked again).
The card also runs hot even at stock settings although you can get a small OC on the card (+175 core/+450 VRAM) in Afterburner without the temps going off the scale (5-6°C increase). Anything more is completely unstable regardless of fan speeds.
After the experience with PNY, I won’t be buying another one of their cards (last 2 cards were from them - 2070 & the 3080ti).
Once the warranty has completely expired (will have to check exactly how long it is as PNY told me it was still covered even tho had it over a year), I will change the thermal paste & pads as I have a feeling that these will be part of the problem along with the generic cooling system they use. Even the power level slider is locked to 100% in Afterburner as they have configured the VBIOS to do so (PNY’s words) to stop people from having overheating issues.
I just wish there was more 3rd party cooking solutions for GPU’s nowadays (non water cooling) as these cards could be improved greatly with a decent cooling solution fitted & a VBIOS that wasn’t so restricted. I am wondering if enabling ReBar in the PNY VBIOS caused overheating issues hence why they refuse to release an ReBar enabled version for the 3080ti? I even asked for a Beta VBIOS!
PS, strange to see such a good retaining X plate on their CHEAPEST version of their cards!!!
Dude probably has an underpowered power supply! I've dealt with an issue like that trouble shooting a friends GPU that would randomly crash. Then out of curiosity, I looked at his power supply. It wasn't adequate for his system. We ordered a new one for him and installed it a few days later, problem solved.
Experience leads me to PSU is starting to fail. The card is not getting enough power and is shutting down. The other possibility is the motherboard PCIE slot is failing when the system warms up.
The PSU for a RTX 3080 Ti is 850w, this is size I would recommend. This will allow for the cards power spikes. 🤓
I bought a new PSU to my son computer(850w corsair), because is corsair 650w was crashing with a 1080ti, 32 GB DDR4 and Ryzen 2600x, 3 hard disk, 1 SDD, 1 NVME, four 140 fan´s. This was after hi, swapped is 980gtx with the 1080ti. Fun fact, i thought the 1080ti was also bad, because, never imagined that 650w could not be enough for all the hardware he have in is computer, so i bought a new gpu (6750xt). the 1080ti is still good.
600 frames on the donut I'M ROLLING ON THE FLOOR🤣
absolute wizard!!!
got enough parts from donors and salvage to cobble together a working videocard?
"Witches are made of wood"😂 no short there.
You should get some flat faced Fingernail Clippers for the plastic notches at 6:56 :)
Much safer!!! And probably useful for other parts as well when you just need a clean cut.
Damn...after the second "Hello Internet!" I couldn't hold saying "Hello!" to my cellphone XD
I wondered why you never had a 3090ti to fix ?
Is it on purpose, or did you have no chance to see one of them on your table?
PNY makes great cards- well at least from the 30 series and later-
One of the only American company's left
Only problem is that PNY are not an “American” company, but mostly French using a Taiwanese factory to knock them out! PNY stands for ‘Paris New York’ where their offices are (main one is in France). All of their GPU’s use the basic Nvidia reference designs as well so they basically do nothing apart from buy the cards & VBIOS, and put them in their own branded boxes. This information was given to me by PNY’s Support team from the French office.
to me it look that the pads where not pealed by protection foil on one side...
Hello strange craziness back @ you! And io shield. I call it al brackets! 😅
Looks like PNY made an excellent 3080 except for the fan plugins. Must have copied gigabit. Giggy should make one as well. Ya'll said the thermal was slightly dry, maybe that was the fault. Your work to replace the paste. Charge them for changing the paste as she will now run for a couple years non-stop if the temps keep down. With the doublers on Radeon running 100°c¿ Unless small aluminum coolers are emplaced. Seems like special coolers need applied on Radeon. Not sure they are made though. What is needed on Radeon doubters is really thick copper pads with thermal fins. Lots of mass and proper air flow. Someone might make the proper devise.
Have to admit, the PNY 3080ti I own is the easiest card to take apart to repaste/change pads that I have disassembled. Literally the 4 ‘X’ brace screws & a couple of smaller ones that connect the I/O plate & Heatsink to the card. Easier to unplug the fan connectors halfway with a pair of fine nosed tweezers before removing the heatsink as can only pull the connectors out part of the way when it is still assembled so not going to rip the actual female part of the connection off the board/pins.
PNY 3080ti cards are made on the same production line as Gainward, Palit & a couple of the other smaller brands, with the only differences being the screenprinting on the card & the stickers used by the respective brands. You can use the VBIOS (apparently) from the Palit & Gainward cards without any issues at all or errors/warnings.
The factory though is very frugal with the amount of paste used on the core thats for sure, as mine had a couple of completely clean areas on both the core & contact plate of the heatsink & there was ZERO pump out as well (which was my first thought that could be the issue when seeing over 20C delta & fans immediately spinning up to 60%+ once a load is placed on it (after the repaste/new pads, I now have a 10-12C hotspot delta under full prolonged load & VRAM is under 88C on 100% load after at least 30 minutes of stress testing it - compared to 98-108C before!!! Fans barely go over 40% now using idle with the stock fan curve from AfterBurner & no undervolt applied.
I always watch this while eating at my break at work, now my coworker think I know how to repair electronics, even tho I dont know shit. But I managed to repair some stuff and now I get even more requests at work, is this how it starts ?
Can anyone name the the true meaning (name) behind Pax? Google just sucks delivering the meaning of pax for electronics/ graphic cards.
The only thing i'm able to find is the avionic explanation of pax which i'm not interisted in....
Thanks ❤
The "who cares!" Should me his slogan😂
I feel bad I got a gigabyte during the pandemic.. which is the #1 card you recommend now that EVGA is gone?
Do you think the bubbles in the heat-transfer pad might have been what changed?
24:50 why do you clean your, fresh paste, isn't that wastin time?
good looking pcb
I find that extremely odd that you say people just reapply paste over the old dried out paste without cleaning it when i would think that just makes an interference layer to just make more thermal problems in my mind it also amazes me that the heat sinks are so large but such bad quality when better heat sinks would work more effectively
And a like you shall have sir.
gamers card for sure!
Hello northwestrepair!
So maybe all this card needed was a re-paste and good to go.
Looks like the customer or someone else other than the factory tried that as PNY (& the other cards that come from same factory) do not use double stacked pads or the green pads. every PNY card I have taken apart to repaste/change pads, all have had plain grey pads & minimal paste applied (mostly not enough with several clean areas on both core & heatsink contact plate along with no pump out of the factory paste in the ‘ditch’ on the GPU core substrate. the anti-tamper sticker on the ‘X’ bracket screw is easily removed & replaced with a pair of thin nose tweezers & a little care at least 3 times before it starts to not stick or the edges crinkle.
nice work guy! youll be a lifestyle channel soon!
maybe the cables were not sitting right in the sockets and possibly arcing causing the gpu not working in idle , and you fixed it by reinserting them after you checked the gpu who knows.
World's first virtual thermal paste taster with HI (Human Intelligence)
Which manufacturer makes the best gpu by design/repairability?
Glue the loose fan header to the board 🤣🤣
I have had asus do it too with those terminals.
its probaby the cheap caps on the back common issue during the shortage
13:52 getting cancelled any% wr speedrun pace
Somehow... I thought, you could detect if the GPU core is dead by tasting the thermal paste from it! Weird! 😵💫
@18:27 rm -f still stop those error messages about removing a non-existent file
Love ya work
skip ads? Ublock origin Get a warnign for blocking ads? Clear all cashes in settings and now watch ad free.