True rust removal by a chemist - Jeep Wrangler YJ bolts : Ep 5
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This is a presentation of how a chemist would remove and eliminate rust (iron oxide) from rusty bolts. The bolts used are frame bolts holding up a crossmember skid plate on a 30 years old Jeep Wrangler YJ from 1988. All chemicals used were acid (hydrochloric) and water. Finally, the bolts were sprayed with WD-40 to protect the bolts from developing new surface rust.
#KenSweden
#RustRemoval
#Acids
Nice vid.
Just want to point out that WD-40 is not a good product to use for general lubrication. It's mainly a mix of alcohol, alkanes (water-repellent), and a VERY light mineral oil. It's so light, that's what makes it a good penetrating oil for unsticking a rusted in bolt or for any part that's gunked up. But any lubrication you do get (very little) will disappear in a short time.
I've seen people make things worse by using WD-40 as a lubricant. The WD-40 will even clean out any existing oil. Then evaporate leaving virtually no protection.
Instead, just use a general-purpose lubricating oil (like 3-in-1 oil). This will provide a better, and longer lasting lubrication. Depending on the use, a synthetic lubricant with teflon, or white lithium grease can also be used.
Very satisfying video to watch, calmed me down after a rough day at work and it pleases my OCD.
O yah that ocd a bitch sometimes when it Flyers up
As an electrical engineer by training (a million years ago now) I had to take elective classes in other disciplines before graduating..I took a Chemistry class and then a Microscale Organic Chemistry class. I loved it so much that I had that feeling that I might have chosen the wrong field of study. Enjoyed your videos..just subscribed!
Never too late! Unless ur dead.
Love doing this to older car parts then a bit of diy electroplating. For people who say "why not just buy new parts?", yes you can buy new fasteners etc, but on older cars alot of parts are obsolete nowadays. There something awesome about removing rust then plating the part
The problem with using acids is that the acid attacks the base metal and greatly weakens it, especially iron and steel. I left some steel parts in an acid bath for a bit too long and when I removed them, I could cut through the steel with a screw driver! The best rust removal method I have found that is non-destructive is electrolysis. It's fairly quick, acid free, and doesn't damage the parts.
At last a video which gets to the basics. I'm getting tired of the debates about white vinegar vs. apple cider vinegar, etc. If one is using a simple acid to get rid of rust, it makes little difference which acid one uses. The difference is concentration and time. Even Coca-Cola is just a dilute acid (and a bunch of sugar). I appreciate your thoughtful approach to the problem. Thank you.
here's the difference between the acids. thanks. th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=5Bkdej_z1HI
will Coke Zero work? my bike's on a diet.....
Anyone ever heard of Hydrogen Embrittlement.?
Automotive and aerospace fasteners should never be immersed in acid,or as I keep seeing on these “home made” videos subjected to electrolysis cleaning methods. The parts will absorb hydrogen during these procedures and become brittle as a result of hydrogen absorption. The only way to remove the hydrogen is to bake the parts at least 200 degrees for at least four hours, depending on the immersions time and the grade of the steel. I don’t know what these bolts are for but if they are safety critical parts ie for brake callipers, wheel nuts, or steering racks etc, they could fail under load or pressure. I have just retired 12 months ago from 48 years of management in the metal finishing industry,( paint, powder coat, EP paint and electroplating)of high grade high spec aerospace and automotive parts and fasteners. The specifications of these parts do not allow them to be subjected to any chemical processes, and in the rare occasion that they are, they have to undertake a baking process of at least 8/12 hrs at 200 degrees to remove the hydrogen.
Such high spec parts are usually “ mechanically cleaned”, ie hot soapy non alkaline cleaning and peening or shot blasted to prepare the surface for the subsequent coating.
Sick of seeing these do it yourself electroplating and electrolysis cleaning videos. If it’s a old bolt for the gate or a couple old door handles that’s fine but DO NOT process safety critical parts using these videos.!!
Why are there so many videos about electroplating without one mentionning Hydrogen Embrittlement ? Are 99% of the youtubers uneducated ? Also all the web articles wrong ?
Why is there 0 emphasis put on this embrittlement ?
What do you recommend then to rejuvenate corroded fasteners.
Quiet man that's fascinating information you provided ! Thank you for your service in the metal finishing industry. How would you suggest the average person remove rust from metal? Chemical , media blast , electrolysis ? What method removes the rust effectively in a timely manner but does little to take good metal with it. Please give details.
Mainly high tensile steel (>1000 MPa) is affected by this (according to wikipedia). So for high tensile strength bolts, yes. But much less of a problem for many other steel parts I suppose.
@@zjeng1Which ones are high tensil bolts in a car ?
Hey quiet man a question, After alot of arguments about Ospho or phosphoric acid used on automobiles to address rust, what's the best way to neutralize acid for using a epoxy, urethane type primer or paint? I know I can clean with mineral spirits and use rustoleum, but what if using the above mentioned? Thank you so much.
I worked in a trombone factory where there was an open 55 gal drum of /hydrochloric acid that wasn't vented. For years there I tasted metal in my mouth, til I figured out that the silver and gold was creating electrolysis aided by the acid in the air. I micro meshed my fillings and the metal taste was gone temporarily. I had them vent the acid pit and problem solved.
I have used evapo-rust and its beyond fantastic.
Deox C is better
only a chemist would make a major production out of something so simple, forget the glass beaker and water, just grab a plastic container throw the bolts in and pour in enough straight muriatic acid in to cover the bolts, they should be rust free in less then an hour. then take the bolts out, rinse with fresh water, blow them dry with a compressor is preferred but if you don't have a compressor then dry with a towel and spray with wd40 so the don't flash rust again. with the amount of rust on the bolts in this video, the whole job could be done in an hour at the most but if you want it even faster and have an old aquarium air pump throw a airline in the acid to act as a bubblier and it should knock about a 1/3 of the time off .
but something i didn't hear him mention, do the job outside, especially if you use a bubblier so you don't breath the fumes or rust all the metal objects in the immediate area....
Quadflopper101
Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid.
Vinegar is acetic acid.
Lemon juice is citric acid.
Don’t knock the chemists; they know more than you do.
And they can spell!
You should use a corrosion inhibitior in that solution, because it etches that bolts.
And boil bolts in distilled water to remove remaining chlorides, wich is causing futher corrosion.
Nice detail. I'm 98% sure those are wheel bolts (not skidplate) from the conical seat.
Good Video. We get the same results with SlurrySafe AR With no corrosion, pitting and safe to the skin
That's how I prep all the parts I zinc plate, but I use strait acid and my part are usually clean in a few minutes.
I have used phosphoric acid to clean an old gas tank and it came out like new! I dropped nuts & bolts and a few feet of an old tow chain in there and me and my neighbor shook it like hell to agitate it. Got the acid at home depot in the garden section. ✌
Fasteners, unless made of exotic materials are not expensive and using old fasteners cleaned up with acid is not a good idea for several reasons; firstly the clamping surfaces are damaged and will not provide even pressures, secondly the threads will be rough and will, especially if being screwed into a soft material such as aluminium, damage the female thread and thirdly the torque applied to the fasteners will be incorrect (due to the first two points), especially if the overall diameter of the faster has been reduced. For wheel bolts, it might not make much of a difference assuming the hub is also steel or iron,, but for any application that requires a specific torque and/or is being used in a soft material, it's better in the long run to use new fasteners. Nice little video though.
Good advice.
To that I'll add that in dynamic application where there is load cycling, the potential of FATIGUE FAILURE increases with the length of in-service life of the fastener/material. All structural materials have a 'fatigue endurance limit' for use in cyclical load applications - for most common steels, typically at 30% of ultimate tensile strength PLUS about 1 million load cycles above or near that 'endurance limit'. Exceed that endurance limit and most assuredly the part/component/fastener WILL fail, and catastrophically without warning. Fatigue happens along the macro 'grain boundaries' of the metal, weakens the material ..... and in corrosive service (consider wintertime road salt), allows chemicals, salts, etc. to enter INTO and along the metal grain boundaries which then propagate internal corrosion of the metal for 'further' weakening. Imagine if your bolt has begun to develop micro-fatigue cracks and you then 'soak' them in muriatic/hydrochloric acid and that acid has penetrated into the base metal via these microscopic CRACKS.
For critical structure and their 'fasteners' in cyclic load bearing service, the best course is to ALWAYS replace the fasteners with NEW (to the exact same LOAD rating). That way your control arms, steering links, your 'hard' brake lines, your calipers, your engine/transmission mounting bolts, your 'universal joint' bolts, etc. etc. won't fall apart/off at the least expected timing.
If you really want to clean the rust from a bolt or stud (or steel tool), etc. there's a much better and simpler way:
Firstly a brief clean-up with a rotating wire wheel to remove the 'loose stuff'. Followed by - *BOILING the part in plain WATER* for a half an hour or more (the longer 'the boil', the better). What will happen is the remaining RED (ferric) rust will begin to convert to BLACK (ferrous) rust. RED rust is destructive; BLACK rust is 'protective' - similar to the 'blueing' finish on firearms. Lastly & after assembly, spritz on some *BOESHIELD T9* which is a wax-like metal protectant ... used extensively on aircraft and other 'critical' maintenance venues.
Hope this helps.
www.amazon.com/BOESHIELD-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522078033&sr=8-1&keywords=boeshield+t9&dpID=417rK6tOOoL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Great point, as clamping force is the main point of fasteners. I've seen many machinists use Evaporust to remove rust without impacting the structure of the part being treated. They even use it on parts that are precision ground/scraped.
Ive used rusty bolts for years and years never had any failures.
So have I, but I'm pretty choosy about which to use again and which to discard - I wouldn't use de-rusted or reclaimed cylinder head suds or bolts, for example.
greenspiraldragon there cheap use new ones.
Vinegar works just fine and doesn't compromise the metal.
Not as strong as HCL
The chemistry method is easier, but a steel wire brush and a little muscle power would do an acceptable job getting that rust off and much faster.
Lay them on thier side for less wasted volume as you cover them in liquid. Forget the water, just use hardware store Muriatic acid. been doing it for years.
I'm less concerned with removing rust than I am with removing rusty bolts.
you better think again, if you don't remove the rust, the rusty bolt overheats when trying to remove and it breaks! bad news.
@@31acruz at that point it's better to replace the hardware.
@@chinchillaintheheat2641 exactly, and if you try to remove that nut off the bolt to replace it without removing the rust from the bolt.. you will break it. Unfortunately some of these bolts like a rear fascia mounting bolt are welded to the frame, you "really" can not afford to snap that bolt and break it. You have to deal with the rust or you will break it.
Better to boil them in vinegar, as HCl penetrates the structure of the bolts and weakens them. Acetic acid attacks the rust, but doesn't damage the metal of the bolts so much.
I have tried freezing vinegar and remove the solid ice (water) as prep the vinegar to increase the acetic acid on rusted bolts with results.
very nice. You cant get that degree of clean with a wire wheel. Good Video!
This Method is absolutely at YOUR own risk.
These bolts are one of the most important parts of Your wheel.
And You kill them with micro-holes because of the HCL.
You cannot see these micro-holes - except You have an electro-miscroscope.
It is absolutely possible, that these bolts just crack whilst driving.
Good luck!
You are absolutely right. The only problem is that you made up your mind about the content before investigating the content properly. It says the bolts are holding up a cross-member skid plate. It is unlikely that the wheels fall off if you have properly tightened your wheels with the bolts intended for the wheels. God Bless you. Thx.
These fasteners need something for the oil to stick to or they will rust again in a year or less. Gun blue works pretty good, or simply let them flash rust and boil them for a black oxide then oil them.
The problem is that this process removes material and will now not hold as well during vibrations.
Now inmerse your full Jeep ;) Thanks for the channel I'm surprised about your other vids.
+ΓΛBIПθΓθJθ I’m on my way! 👍
It just seems easier to hit the metal with a wire wheel then spray it with RP-342 "HEAVY" Military-Grade Rust Preventive Aerosol Spray.
Rather than a 2hr wait they'll be ready in 10 minutes.
Just saying.
+Cherev Kodesh interesting, have you got a link? Please post!
Never made a vid about that, I'll consider it.
Thanks for your time in thoroughly explaining the process. What was your starting concentration of HCl before you added it to the water?
Somewhere 35-37%. The bottle had been standing for a while
Considering that these bolts have such an important safety role, it's probably better to just replace them.
After 30 years maybe it's time to get new bolts ? I'm pretty sure any machinist can remake them to the same specs, (same bevel and stuffs..)
I think if you're working on the body of the car phosphoric acid is better to use. Safer to use and it has a thicker consistency so it's easier to brush on.
Awell filmed.Thankyou
I just threw away and replaced those bolts on my YJ. Had to replace the transmission skid plate too.
Are they still in tollerances in terms of diameters?
Very tight, no problem, but I exchanged the bad ones.
I read in a different comment that these are crossmember bolts.
Really strange, I've never seen these on a jeep YJ. They do look a lot like lug bolts like a lot of European cars have.
Very helpful. Thank you so much.
Glad it was helpful!
Would it help if you put this in an ultrasonic cleaner?
After this process you should have run a blow torch over them to get rid of the acid. I would have rinsed in baking soda (strong base to neutralize the acid) and then heat treated to parts with a flame. This is actually how a chemist would do it.
I have over 100 various types of drill and screwdriver bits from a Husky tool set I left out in the rain. So guess what now they are all covered in rust. They are still usable but rust is getting everywhere. So I bought a Tekton 2841 bit set for $35 today. I still want to bring all my bits back to life. So my son just walks in with 'Organic' Apple Cider vinegar, LOL. I have no idea why organic but whatever. That's how I got here, HAHA!
+dontswin ...yeah, I am not aware of any Apple cider vinegar that is not organic. Anyway, Heat them in the vinegar and your bits will be like new!
Wow, 8 minutes for just that...! Anyway, some physical polishing would enable the removal of more surface rust and make the surfaces flatter, too. Use a simple lathe and some sandpaper... Then some more acid & repeat if needed, until they shine. You could also warm them up a little to change the volume and thereby get more rust to come off...
Thanks for sharing! I guess the proportion by which this compound is dissolving the rust resp. the iron is constant and that the mixture ratio 1:1 in principle is arbitrary: Please correct me if I'm wrong. Also if I may ask, isn't there compounds that more selectively dissolves the rust and not the iron, or is hydrocloric acid the best in this regard?
The ratio was arbitrary, but taken concentrated enough to get a fast result. Hydro chloric acid is best in this regard unless you go mixed and more complicated acids. It is however not dissolving at the same rate, the rust (iron oxide) dissolves much faster because it is porous and the acid have easier access. Good point! Regards!
I still prefer electrolytic rust removal. It is easy to make your own setup. And you need nothing harsher than some water and bicarb and a car battery charger.
Bench grinder w/wire wheel and pliers to hold the bolts?
I feel like this is half the process, yes Hydrochloric acid aka Muriatic acid is an excellent way of removing rust, but it is also an excellent way to accelerate the rusting process, I would have used baking soda water to neutralize it or better yet some high strength industrial grade vinegar to wash it off and coat it to prevent aka inhibit future rust from forming, I am curious how your bolts looked just a year later, not being rude, I just played this game before and had things super cleaned zero rust, and then the rust came back as quickly as it left
This method after drying may produce more rust Over time unless you keep up on keeping them clean and protected with a oil over time
You’re right. Thx for highlighting
I would add some phosphoric acid to the mix.
HCl is just too much of a pain to handle and store compared to household acids or rust chelators. I would not re-use those bolts either. The rough taper will increase friction and will gall alloy wheels. So you will reach the torque spec. before the intended clamping force is achieved.
Thanks Great Video
the only way to prevent them from rusting is to plate them...zinc, nickel, galvanise etc
Great video,however the average house hold does not carry on hand sulfuric acid, nor do we know where to purchase it.
It’s muriatic acid in the paint store. Thanks.
New bolts please. That's the best and safe option at the end of the day. I wouldn't use those bolts at the end of that process, they look dreadful.
Thanks I did a year of chemistry before switching to computer science, and always thought this was the go, hydrochloric being able to evaporate eventually, chlorides being generally soluble and hydrochloric being quite reactive.
Sulfuric isn't good though (probably) because sulfate is catalytic to the rusting process. And yes I mean "catalytic" in that the sulfate ion is regenerated and therefore isn't used up. Which is bad because there will be no end to the acceleration of the rusting. But then it has been used since forever as a pickle for steel, so maybe not.
2.5 hours?
It's cool and all but I'm sorry I don't have that kind of time.
15 seconds each on the wire wheel of my bench grinder.
I completely agree! The only time I use muriatic acid is when I'm looking to dissolve the sludge and rust in an old gas tank.
For lighter rust on smaller objects, sure, wire wheels are just fine. I'm confident it'd take more than 15 seconds a piece for anything with heavier rust.
That’s ok if you only have a couple of bolts. Using a wire wheel
This also works to remove rust stains from fiberglass. It solvates the iron oxide so it can dissolve into the cleaning solution to be rinsed away.
so where does everyone dispose of all the rust removers i wonder????
So what is the best way to neutralize phosphoric acid on a car to then prime and paint? Alot of talk about this and I rewet with acid, let sit for 5 minutes, wash with water and a scotch Brite pad and dry with air or heat or both as fast as I can then use primer, paint etc. Is there a guaranteed way to show ppl to not be afraid of acids if used properly? Thank you. Very good video. Learned more her and in comments then most at all
Thank you for your comment. I think that in your case, in the particular case of phosphoric acid, the neutralization is not a big problem and only rinsing with water will take you far. The reason is that the process of rusting is related to the ability of the iron atoms with their acidic nature to interact with the water and the oxygen to form first hydrolyzed iron atoms that then quickly is converted into iron oxide, which is what is referred to as rust. The use of phosphoric acid as a rust remover is based on the benefits that the iron atoms prefer to strongly bond with the negative phosphorus atoms instead of hydrolyzing and oxidizing, which is a result of fundamental chemistry and acid basis theories related to the formation of certain solid precipitate before others (descriptive inorganic chemistry, I recommend reading Wulfberg). Having said this, I think that you are in a quite good position just to paint on the iron phosphate surface that you have after treating the surface with phosphoric acid and the bonding with any epoxy or thermoset paint should be excellent. If you instead use a thermoplastic paint, like most spray paints, then you could benefit from using a rust converter that contains both phosphoric acid and tannic acid. The tannic acid provides a more paint compatible surface since it is some hydrocarbon structures in the tannic acid resulting surface. A final comment, you still have an issue of not knowing how much you have converted your surface into iron phosphate because it is a surface reaction so always try to brush off as much as possible of the rust first. You can actually check your phosphors iron converted surface with a victorinox knife, scratch it and you will see if rust comes out under the black coat that you have formed. Good luck!
YOU NEED TO AGITATE THE FLUID AND PARTS. YOU ALSO SHOULD LIGHTLY COAT THEM WITH OIL AFTER CLEANING AND POLISHING OR PAINT THEM IMMEDIATELY AFTERWARDS.
THEY WILL BE RUSTY VERY QUICKLY. NOT A BAD AS BEFORE BUT THE SURFACE WILL RUST VERY FAST.
Funny how you set them in the heads (not well exposed to acid water] and never show the heads in the video
HCL is the best But the smell is unacceptable.
How can I get rid of its smell?
Thank you, very informative and useful.
I would still buy new ones. Their is also biodegradable substance that works just as well. it takes longer for it to eat the rust off but does a great job. It is made in Madison Wisconsin. it is called something like bio-green. The word green is in the name of the product.
+countryside Good point. The green seldom works as fast but as you say, the dissolution doesn’t need to go this fast.
Guess you never heard of Evapo-rust or phosphoric acid or electrolysis. All better than HCl.
There is a product that you can buy called ospho. I believe its phosphoric acid. I work on a sea going tug boat and deal with rust daily. The ospho works great.
+Jack black if you want to know, then search the msds sheet for the product. I just did and you’re right - orthophosphoric acid
These bolts are compromised. Use a wire wheel, much quicker. That way, you can find out if your bolts are junk, like the ones this genius uses, or if they are still intact. Broken wheel lugs can be deadly. Actually, a whole lot of bolts on cars are pretty important. Been wrenching for years. If I see a difference in shape, size, etc, I get new ones.
I hoped for more from a chemist. There are chemical methods which spare the iron and only remove the rust. I would have liked to know what these were.
Thx will do so, have to find a good reference for comparison so we can compare w and without
@@Ken_Sweden thanks i will sub and look out for it.
Very fine glass beads in a bead blaster is the way to go😁
My good friend and long time fishing buddy who's a master marine mechanic says "Do NOT spray WD-40 to prevent rust. It won't work" He's seen it used on inboard engines and outdrive boats for 44 years and it fails consistently. He recommends, and so do I, using a MARINE Corrosion Guard after cleaning off the rust chemically, electronically or mechanically quickly with a wire buffing wheel. It's scientifically designed by a team of chemists to work in the worst type of corrosion, rust environments. salt water, damp conditions, and the presents of electrical and magnetic fields and currents are horrific on metal parts. Once the majority of rust is removed, the MARINE Corrosion Guard can stave off the return of rust for years. Monitoring rust so it doesn't get out of control is the key. it's called Maintenance!!!!
Ah, yes. WD-40. First it will attract dirt and grit, then it will dry out in a few weeks, and then it will resume rusting. A beautiful cycle.
Lol planned obsolescence, just use more WD40. Or try lanolin.
First WD-40 to clean the parts, then let them dry, then you can reuse them.
New bolts are about $1 each. How much does acid cost?
As a former mechanic I would never do this. First of all it's a gross waste of time, and if they're corroded they should be replaced.
some bleaches have chlorine & some others have hydrochloric acid, read the label.
And here I've been using a wire wheel to clean up bolts all this time. lol ;P
What about the danger of Hydrogen embrittlement weakening the bolts?
+Robert Ferguson it takes days for the hydrogen to penetrate deep into the steel according to all scientific reports i have been able to find. Not 30 minutes. The strength has primarily been reduced from the lost iron that went into rust. Thx good point comment!
@@Ken_Sweden Thanks for the reply Ken. I suppose 30 minutes is too short a time.
I use muriatic acid, then rinse in an alkaline solution.
03:54 Start the reactor Quade, start the reactor.
Never saw bolts like that on my two YJ's
I have on my '92 (harsh climate)but hell, I can replace the whole suspension soup to nuts for 500$ stuff your acid BILL NYE!😁
Probably volkswagon lugs
They look similar to the lug bolts on my wife's '19 Cherokee. But they also look like the ones on my '74 VW type 1
Great gag! WD40,,.the name..straight out of the lab!
I always use transmission fluid for tools and anything metal.
Why?
sprayed with WD-40 to protect the bolts, but do you paint the bolts head before ?
+Frank Beaulieu I kept only some of them, new ones are relatively cheap and the video was for demonstration. Ultimately I put some antiseize on them only since these bolts rust less than the Jeep frame anyway, which is being fixed now. Thanks for comment.
@@Ken_Sweden Cool thx man !
How many hours should i soak the rusted metal.
You have to be there and watch it. Depends on the nature of the rust. Can go fast or slow. As soon as everything is gone, then stop the process. Thanks for input, and good luck w your project!
Doesn’t the acid dissolve the base metal too? Would think that if it did dissolve the base metal too it would weaken the bolts to some degree. Thanks for posting the video though. 👍
Not under these conditions. The major concern here is the use of hydrochloric acid ( H+ Cl-) and some comments refere to that below. The chloride ions are corrosive in nature and many rust dissolvers are therefore based on phosphorous acid (with phosphorous ions instead of chloride). However, there are ways to get around this and one is to torch the bolts so the chloride ions go into gas. Regardless, most of the iron is still inside the bolts and is never effected. One should also remember that chloride ions are present on our roads and also made the bolts rust in the first place. All the best and thanks for watching!
Hydrochloric acid does react with iron. The bubbling you see is hydrogen gas being formed by the reduction of H+ by elemental iron. The reaction of hydrochloric acid with iron oxide would only form ferric chloride and water and wouldn't cause bubbling.
I think it's more a matter of rust dissolves faster, there's less of it, and it's all on the surface.
yes HCl will attack the steel too. Ken could show this by heating the HCl and leaving in longer.
What alkaline solution did you use, and what easily available alkaline would you recommend we use?
Mr Muscle in the grocery store or similar sewage drain cleaner works equally well. I used chemical grade NaOH but it doesn’t make a difference. Thx for comment!
learning how to make shots!!
Wouldn't a dip of these bolts in used motor oil do the same thing to prevent rusting in the future? Makes sense to me, I am not confident of WD40 to be honest.
Torch em first and you re set for lifetime. Thanks for input!
How long before the acid starts eating into the good metal?
I have one of the nails in my other video running now since 2 days ago,in the acid, and dissolving the metal is very very slow - at least 100 times slower. I will check it and get back with a better estimate.
Thanks for the video. Is there a "special" strength of acid? Also, what is the handiest source for lay people to obtain it? Thanks.
Any paint store, as muriatic acid, which is the trade name. Thanks for watching!
He did it 50/ 50
A simple over the counter solution of water and Washing Soda (not baking soda). Drive current through object where electrolysis will remove rust. Far much safer than costly hydrochloric acid. You did no mention the natural gassing of your process; is not this vapor toxic and corrosive?
Does this not cause hydrogen in-brittlment like electroplating
+Wayne Allsopp Thanks for asking. Hydrogen embrittlement is a process where hydrogen dissolves and diffuse into the metal. The diffusion of the hydrogen is different from material to material, and the scientific view is that it is a reversible process, meaning that the hydrogen can also leave the metal. You may read in the comments and statements claiming horrible effects and the fact that the material to some extent looses ductility (toughness). In reality one has to do mechanical testing to verify hydrogen embrittlement for these specific bolts and with their specific material grade. Since we also see some serious pitting where the rust was sitting, which certainly has reduced the thickness of the bolt, this would be my main concern if we talk material strength. However, would I worry about these bolts? Well, these are not wheel lug nuts and they are in reality used to hold up a transmission as 6 aligned bolts. I would be surprised if all of them snapped at exactly the same second so I drop my transmission. For anyone worried, I would say `buy new’. Neither would I recommend this person to drive a Wrangler without airbags. I hope this helps and thanks again for asking!
WD-40, displace water. Would isopropyl alcohol do the same ?
Isopropyl alcohol mixes very well with water, no displacement and it evaporates before the water so in the end it will be rust again. Thx f comment.
So probably a nice hot bath in used motor oil.
Wow. I need to try this
And that's how you hydrogen embrittle bolts. Any questions?
It’s been discussed below in the comments. thanks for your highlight! th-cam.com/video/FqYgs0Mr2vQ/w-d-xo.html
I am curious, why hydrochloric instead of muriatic acid? I have used muriatic (because that is what I had) with excellent results. Thanks!
It’s the same acid, only labelled by trade name as muriatic acid. Normally technical grade, meaning guaranteed 70 % purity, whereas I used 99 % but that doesn’t matter, the strength is the same. Thanks for bringing this up!
Thanks. And now I know what muriatic acid really is.
Is it better to use distilled water?
No, it has No relevance
Is there any solution to neutralize the acid?Or put the bolt to the mixture of natrium bicarbonate first after that put to the water .Is it effective to fully neutralize the acid to prevent rust grow again?
+Just For Fun yes you can do as you say, neutralize first and then dip water. The chloric ions from the acid have to be eliminated. One way is to use a torch, heat until red and dip cool in oil. Thanks for comment!
Ken Sweden thx
I'm restoring a couple of cars and have a lot of rusty bolts and small parts etc. The carburettor cleaned up like new by soaking overnight with vinegar but vinegar was only so-so with bolts. Citrus acid works well with cleaning bolts but I was busted by my wife boiling bolts in citrus acid in her best pots. Today I've tried Hydrochloric acid and it is by far the best. Cheap to buy and sorted bolts in about an hour of soaking for 10min then wire brushing then soaking again. Only issue is the grease/oil that ends up covering every items and reduces the effectiveness
of the acid. Has anyone got a solution for removing oil?
For steel and iron, you can do a mix of 40 grams caustic soda + 25 grams of sodium carbonate + some detergent (all per litre) and then heat it so it simmers.
Let them sit in there for 10-15 min. This is basically the toilet cleaner + washing powder + liquid hand washing detergent. However, be aware and definitely use eye protection. Lots of folks believe acids in the eyes is the worst. That’s not true, alkaline (like the above) are the worst. If you splash this - your vision will be instantaneously, irreversibly and permanently blurred. You cannot use it on aluminum or zinc, it will erode your metal. If you want to go solvents, the stoddard solvents are the strongest but road tar is often too tough sitting, and I have had limited success. In the old times they used chlorinated stuff in there, which is banned today. This stuff is still used in some paint dissolvers but it is very nasty - it’s carcinogenic. For solvent based I recommend normal petrol (gasoline). I am always surprised how well it dissolves stuff and I have no clue what they put in there. Good luck.
A chemist would use acid, everyone else would use vinegar.
nick mcarr
Vinegar is acetic acid.
Thank you 🙏 what concentration of hydrochloride acid did you use? 30%?
Yes! Of the 37%
How do you dissolve salt residue from pc board?
I cleaned a PC board from salt residues in isopropyl alcohol, pure, by completely immersing it for awhile. Then air dry. No water. Best look it up. Good luck
I wouldn't worry about the integrity of the bolts...they weren't that rusty to begin with.
The "Wrangler" in the title had me triggered. Sick and tired of Wrangle Star coming up in my feed. Haha!
OMG....who has time for that? Take a small wire brush to the dang bolts and spray them a few times with WD50. Wipe them off and way you go. If you want to paint them after you clean them, dip them in lacquer thinner or naptha (coleman fuel) and spray them with Rustoleum paint. Don't play with acid.
or you can take them to the blast cabinet for a 20 second ride and be done with it.