FYI for everyone: Ospho does have a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) out that clarifies, here's the quote: "OSPHO is recommended for use under oil based primers or paints. Test trial samples before using Epoxy or other paint systems" The description I've given in the video is what SPI (Southern Polyurethanes) says to do before using their automotive products over Ospho. Check with your specific paint manufacturer. Some might be okay. Others, such as SPI, explicitly state do NOT use it over Ospho. Further: I might make a follow up video about this to clarify. I still needed to do filler work on the bed at that point. I used the Ospho just to keep it from rusting over the winter, and I still needed to grind the metal and do the body work. So the Ospho was going to come off one way or another, and I only would neutralize a spot I was getting ready to work on, and kind of "in real time", meaning "when I was going to do to work right then". And as I mentioned in the video, I was going to use fiberglass fillter, which is waterproof, so no real need to have the Ospho under it. So I neutralized, ground the metal, did the filler work. If it was finished metal, I'd say skip the Scotchbrite pad and just use a rag. That way you just neutralize the remaining acid, but leave the converted "Ospho'd" rust there. Also depends on the surface...if it was sanded or blasted beneath the Ospho, or just smooth, bare metal. If it was smooth, you'd have to put scratches in it, and in that case I'd use the Scotchbrite. So there are variables here.
Great video , thanks . I'm from the north in the salt belt . I'm considering the ospho treatment on the undercarriage weld areas that tend to rust first and then top coating with cosmoline or B'laster Surface shield . It's been my experience that products like Surface Shield and Fluid Film work very well AFTER they get a coating of dirt embedded on top . As for the inside of the box , Fluid Film will constantly leach out and attract dirt on the outside of the panel , small areas but it has never stopped leaching on my truck . It cleans off easily but is a constant pain . I will be trying Cosmoline on our new truck this year .
This is good information. Some people dont know how to properly use this green ospho acid stuff. With that being said, I do wish they made a thick gel based formula of ospho...
You really don't need to. Once the acid gets sprayed on rust or the exposed surface, it converts almost immediately. Anything that needs more, just spray on a little bit more the next day.
This is information I have been searching for! I just bought Ospho to fix all of the rust on my son's Hyundai Genesis Coupe, but I wasn't sure if I should paint over it after the 24 hours of treatment or not. Now I feel confident about what I need to do to get all of this rust correction finished correctly. By the way, what does it mean when the Ospho turns bare metal into shades of blue? I used Ospho on brand new brake rotors to remove some pitted rust specs showing up after they were sitting around for a while. I didn't treat the rotors for 24 hours. Instead I poured some Ospho on a green scotch brite pad and rubbed the rotors down to remove those specs. After about an hour I cleaned off the rotors with water and a towel. Next thing I know, they are turning bluish grey. It looks kind of cool, but sometimes looking cool isn't really cool especially when it comes to brake rotors.
It's probably about the same thing as you saw in my video, where my truck turned basically charcoal gray. It means there was just enough rust on there to cause a reaction. If it's for brakes the pads will wear it right off. This is a good product, it's just not a cure-all for heavy rust. You get most of it off and then it can definitely take care of the rest
I didn't even grind off all the rust, because the phosphoric acid converts it all into Iron Phosphate, which is hard, inert, and stops all further rust from forming.
I know there are a thousand opinions on this subject, but actually you don't want to remove the Ospho, you just want to neutralize it. The phosphoric acid is phosphating the bare steel. If you check any industrial painting process, you'll find that phosphating is the pretreatment. I'm an engineer, automotive components, and I can tell you that for E-Coat, the salt spray resistance is basically dependent on the quality of the phosphating process, more than the paint itself. The other key point is that epoxy primers can't work with acidic surfaces. Phosphated - yes - great. But MUST be neutralized. Just water will do this.
The challenge with this type of product is that the TDS of the primer and the TDS of the phosphoric acid pre-treatment often conflict, creating a lot of confusion. I'm using both prep & epoxy primer products from Kirker on a tractor project right now, and even there, not crystal clear.
@@gregreed2713 I might make a follow up video about this to clarify. I still needed to do filler work on the bed at that point. I used the Ospho just to keep it from rusting over the winter, and I still needed to grind the metal and do the body work. So the Ospho was going to come off one way or another, and I only would neutralize a spot I was getting ready to work on, and kind of "in real time", meaning "when I was going to do to work right then". And as I mentioned in the video, I was going to use fiberglass fillter, which is waterproof, so no real need to have the Ospho under it. So I neutralized, ground the metal, did the filler work. If it was finished metal, I'd say skip the Scotchbrite pad and just use a rag. That way you just neutralize the remaining acid, but leave the converted "Ospho'd" rust there. Also depends on the surface...if it was sanded or blasted beneath the Ospho, or just smooth, bare metal. If it was smooth, you'd have to put scratches in it, and in that case I'd use the Scotchbrite. So there are variables here.
TECHNICALLY, you remove the Ospho. You DO NOT remove the converted Iron Phosphate coating (which is not Ospho). The issue with leaving Ospho on the surface is that its acid will cause adhesion problems with not only epoxy, but with traditional lacquer based paints.
@@Systems1 Re-read my last post Right Above This one. I was going to spray epoxy over bare metal and then do body work on top of that. I absolutely did not want ospho under the epoxy. I want the epoxy on as virgin a surface as I can get. The Ospho in this case was just used to preserve the metal over the winter
Thanks for the tips. I ended up contacting the paint manufacturer to see if I need to neutralize before I paint. If we have to neutralize before we paint, does that mean we have to hurry up and rush to Prime before it starts to rust instantly?
Pretty much, yes. Although you could easily take a Scotch-Brite and scuff off any flash rust, and in my case I am putting epoxy over it and that's going to seal it so nothing's going to rust further once you have that on there. But definitely check with your paint manufacturer, some brands are perfectly okay to put over Ospho.
No. The video incorrectly has you removing the Iron Phosphate coating that Ospho creates. You want to keep that. You want to NEUTRALIZE the ACID, and that is easy: Water, Dish Soap, and Baking Soda with a soft brush to get in the crannies. Thats it. Dry it off, prime, and paint. Do not remove the Iron Phosphate. That is a protective compound courtesy of the phosphoric acid conversion.
@@SealofPerfection listen to the nerd talking about pH Thanks for the vid though for real, its still ok to paint over the "surface rust" after cleaning the ospho off or whats the procedure behind that
@@shawnlynch9826 yes, the Ospho converts the rust from iron oxide to iron phosphate, which is technically no longer rust. And if you put something over it so moisture and oxygen can't get to the metal, theoretically it should not rust anymore. The only part that makes me doubt how tall is wondering if I got it all with the Ospho or if there's a little rust left underneath there. That's why I would recommend get is absolutely much of the rust off as you can and only just have a little bit left there and convert that, and then get it coated as soon as possible
@@SealofPerfection the problems were mostly in corners and bends where the ospho accumulated, and was chalky. The ospho expanded and bubbled ,it looked like black rice crispy treats. I love ospho and por15 . I do the inside of fenders and body panels, they will last longer than me.
@@centralscrutinizer76 when my bed was upside down, I had Ospho in a spray bottle and I just flooded it down so it could reach the top of the bed while it was upside down. That was the only way I could get those places which I knew had surface rust on them at the minimum. So I am sure it pulled down there and may look like you described. I am actually thinking of using that Majik enamel that is oil-based you can buy from tractor supply, but it does have a hardener you can add to it and just pouring it down in there to try to cover it up. And then probably using fluid film or caviyy wax on it. Oil base may have a better chance of sticking to that stuff down in there that I can't get to. I just want all the insurance I can get
@@johnnymckissick2735 Check the TDS of your particular brand, but I'm using SPI epoxy and what I did here was how they say to do it before using theirs. But all epoxy isn't exactly the same, so check your paperwork first. And remember, I didn't just clean the Ospho with water, I first wet the cured Ospho with more Ospho and let it sit, and then washed it all off to neutralize it.
It's not "fresh raw metal". It has a micro-coating of Iron Phosphate (which gives it that grey look). That you keep. Excess ospho can be neutralized and washed off.
In some videos when using Ospho a whitish film left behind, i think this is excess phosphoric acid that evaporated. If you can get to it there is no problem as you can scotch brite it off, but i plan on wire brushing then putting a rust reducer in my box tube bronco frame. The white film would be hard to get off inside the box tubing and i would not want to leave an acid there to eat the metal when i get moisture in there. Am i way off track here?
Yea, I got that too. It's not dried phosphoric acid, which does not dry (it combines with moisture in the air and remains wet). Its some other compound generated most likely by the minerals in the alloy. You can just brush it off and apply another coat of ospho
You can weld through it, but I don't know that I would. You don't want any contaminants in your metal, you just want metal and filler If it's just sheet metal it probably wouldn't hurt anything though. Personally I would grind it off the spot I was about to weld, and just hit it with Ospho again when I was done
Although the info is appreciated can't help but wonder...you sand the ospho surface which doesn't remove the ospho coating? Yet, sanding would remove paint from a surface? Seems illogical.
@@gbnomore3918 I'm not really sanding it so much as I'm just washing it with that pad. In this particular case, and I probably should have said it in the video, the Ospho was just there as a protective coating over the winter when I wasn't working on it so I did actually want most of it off
There is no "Ospho Surface". Ospho is a solution of Phosphoric Acid. When you spray Ospho on a ferrous surface, the Rust and the micro-surface of the bare metal is converted into IRON PHOSPATE, which is a hard, intert substance which can be painted over. There is residual Phosphoric Acid that remains on the surface. You don't take the Iron Phosphate coating off. You have to neutralize the acid. Use BAKING SODA or mild Sodium Hydroxide (drain cleaner) solution and water (and soap). The residual acid gets neutralized and washed away!!!! NEVER remove the Iron Phosphate that has converted. It prevents rust formation.
@@Systems1 that is true in some cases but not in this case. In this case I need it to be fresh clean metal that I was going to spray epoxy over and then do body work on top of that. I didn't want anything in between the epoxy and the metal.
@@SealofPerfection To each his own. I would never remove the Iron Phosphate generated by the Ospho. Iron Phosphate is chemically-bonded at the molecular level with the steel surface exceeding any protection that epoxy alone can provide.
I would say it depends on the type of filler you were using. Check the TDS for whatever brand you have. Theoretically the answer should be yes you can use it
Yes. Email them and they'll tell you exactly how. I would still probably coat it with something afterwards, just to be safe, but the Ospho can kill the rust first.
Ospho doesn't "kill rust". Its a chemical reaction between Phosphoric Acid (which is what Ospho is, in solution) and Iron Oxide or Steel. The end result is Iron Phosphate, which will look black if it converted from rust, or light grey on bare steel. Either sand blast the interior of your tank first, or just put a bag of steel ball bearings inside your rusty tank, shake it to knock loose any rust, and wet down thoroughly with Ospho and let sit overnight. You can spray more in the next day and let sit for another day. Next day, run a soapy solution of baking soda and water. That should do it. You can run gasoline directly over the Iron Phosphate because it's inert.
Your ADD is worse than mine lol. I followed these steps and had surface rust all over my area the next day. The scotch pad removed the ospho down to bare metals. Super irritating.
@@johnnymckissick2735 I very lightly wash it with a scotch brite. I don't really sand the stuff off. And you do need to kind of coat it pretty much immediately
@@johnnymckissick2735I thought I responded to that, but the same way. Wash it off with a rag. Going back to the rust after you neutralize it, you should only neutralize it if you're going to work on it right then. You shouldn't neutralize it and then just let it sit, neutralize it and then spray it with epoxy right then. It won't matter if it has just a little bit of surface Flash rust. The epoxy will seal that up with no problem
The guy didn't need to use scotch brite. It isn't necessary because water, baking soda, and soap will remove everthing acidic with just a sponge or a soft scrub brush.
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FYI for everyone: Ospho does have a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) out that clarifies, here's the quote:
"OSPHO is recommended for use under oil based primers or paints. Test trial samples before using Epoxy or other paint systems"
The description I've given in the video is what SPI (Southern Polyurethanes) says to do before using their automotive products over Ospho. Check with your specific paint manufacturer. Some might be okay. Others, such as SPI, explicitly state do NOT use it over Ospho.
Further:
I might make a follow up video about this to clarify. I still needed to do filler work on the bed at that point. I used the Ospho just to keep it from rusting over the winter, and I still needed to grind the metal and do the body work. So the Ospho was going to come off one way or another, and I only would neutralize a spot I was getting ready to work on, and kind of "in real time", meaning "when I was going to do to work right then". And as I mentioned in the video, I was going to use fiberglass fillter, which is waterproof, so no real need to have the Ospho under it. So I neutralized, ground the metal, did the filler work.
If it was finished metal, I'd say skip the Scotchbrite pad and just use a rag. That way you just neutralize the remaining acid, but leave the converted "Ospho'd" rust there. Also depends on the surface...if it was sanded or blasted beneath the Ospho, or just smooth, bare metal. If it was smooth, you'd have to put scratches in it, and in that case I'd use the Scotchbrite.
So there are variables here.
Great video! I was looking for instructions on how to exactly use Ospho the same way as you are. Thanks for making it simple!
Thanks!
Great video , thanks . I'm from the north in the salt belt . I'm considering the ospho treatment on the undercarriage weld areas that tend to rust first and then top coating with cosmoline or B'laster Surface shield . It's been my experience that products like Surface Shield and Fluid Film work very well AFTER they get a coating of dirt embedded on top . As for the inside of the box , Fluid Film will constantly leach out and attract dirt on the outside of the panel , small areas but it has never stopped leaching on my truck . It cleans off easily but is a constant pain . I will be trying Cosmoline on our new truck this year .
This is good information. Some people dont know how to properly use this green ospho acid stuff. With that being said, I do wish they made a thick gel based formula of ospho...
You really don't need to. Once the acid gets sprayed on rust or the exposed surface, it converts almost immediately. Anything that needs more, just spray on a little bit more the next day.
This is information I have been searching for! I just bought Ospho to fix all of the rust on my son's Hyundai Genesis Coupe, but I wasn't sure if I should paint over it after the 24 hours of treatment or not. Now I feel confident about what I need to do to get all of this rust correction finished correctly. By the way, what does it mean when the Ospho turns bare metal into shades of blue? I used Ospho on brand new brake rotors to remove some pitted rust specs showing up after they were sitting around for a while. I didn't treat the rotors for 24 hours. Instead I poured some Ospho on a green scotch brite pad and rubbed the rotors down to remove those specs. After about an hour I cleaned off the rotors with water and a towel. Next thing I know, they are turning bluish grey. It looks kind of cool, but sometimes looking cool isn't really cool especially when it comes to brake rotors.
It's probably about the same thing as you saw in my video, where my truck turned basically charcoal gray. It means there was just enough rust on there to cause a reaction. If it's for brakes the pads will wear it right off.
This is a good product, it's just not a cure-all for heavy rust. You get most of it off and then it can definitely take care of the rest
Thanks for the super fast response!@@SealofPerfection
I didn't even grind off all the rust, because the phosphoric acid converts it all into Iron Phosphate, which is hard, inert, and stops all further rust from forming.
I know there are a thousand opinions on this subject, but actually you don't want to remove the Ospho, you just want to neutralize it.
The phosphoric acid is phosphating the bare steel.
If you check any industrial painting process, you'll find that phosphating is the pretreatment. I'm an engineer, automotive components, and I can tell you that for E-Coat, the salt spray resistance is basically dependent on the quality of the phosphating process, more than the paint itself.
The other key point is that epoxy primers can't work with acidic surfaces. Phosphated - yes - great. But MUST be neutralized. Just water will do this.
Don't disagree, but I am using SPI epoxy and therefore I am showing their recommended process.
Check with the TDS of whatever you are using
The challenge with this type of product is that the TDS of the primer and the TDS of the phosphoric acid pre-treatment often conflict, creating a lot of confusion.
I'm using both prep & epoxy primer products from Kirker on a tractor project right now, and even there, not crystal clear.
@@gregreed2713 I might make a follow up video about this to clarify. I still needed to do filler work on the bed at that point. I used the Ospho just to keep it from rusting over the winter, and I still needed to grind the metal and do the body work. So the Ospho was going to come off one way or another, and I only would neutralize a spot I was getting ready to work on, and kind of "in real time", meaning "when I was going to do to work right then". And as I mentioned in the video, I was going to use fiberglass fillter, which is waterproof, so no real need to have the Ospho under it. So I neutralized, ground the metal, did the filler work.
If it was finished metal, I'd say skip the Scotchbrite pad and just use a rag. That way you just neutralize the remaining acid, but leave the converted "Ospho'd" rust there. Also depends on the surface...if it was sanded or blasted beneath the Ospho, or just smooth, bare metal. If it was smooth, you'd have to put scratches in it, and in that case I'd use the Scotchbrite.
So there are variables here.
TECHNICALLY, you remove the Ospho. You DO NOT remove the converted Iron Phosphate coating (which is not Ospho).
The issue with leaving Ospho on the surface is that its acid will cause adhesion problems with not only epoxy, but with traditional lacquer based paints.
@@Systems1 Re-read my last post Right Above This one. I was going to spray epoxy over bare metal and then do body work on top of that. I absolutely did not want ospho under the epoxy. I want the epoxy on as virgin a surface as I can get. The Ospho in this case was just used to preserve the metal over the winter
Thanks for the tips. I ended up contacting the paint manufacturer to see if I need to neutralize before I paint.
If we have to neutralize before we paint, does that mean we have to hurry up and rush to Prime before it starts to rust instantly?
Pretty much, yes. Although you could easily take a Scotch-Brite and scuff off any flash rust, and in my case I am putting epoxy over it and that's going to seal it so nothing's going to rust further once you have that on there. But definitely check with your paint manufacturer, some brands are perfectly okay to put over Ospho.
If you neutralize, but don't remove the phosphated finish, they shouldn't be much flash rusting.
No. The video incorrectly has you removing the Iron Phosphate coating that Ospho creates. You want to keep that. You want to NEUTRALIZE the ACID, and that is easy: Water, Dish Soap, and Baking Soda with a soft brush to get in the crannies. Thats it. Dry it off, prime, and paint. Do not remove the Iron Phosphate. That is a protective compound courtesy of the phosphoric acid conversion.
@Systems1 yea, it works better that way...
Instead of licking the metal, you can use PH test strips to check for residual ospho.
Good point. Licking is quicker though, lol.
@@SealofPerfection listen to the nerd talking about pH
Thanks for the vid though for real, its still ok to paint over the "surface rust" after cleaning the ospho off or whats the procedure behind that
@@shawnlynch9826 yes, the Ospho converts the rust from iron oxide to iron phosphate, which is technically no longer rust.
And if you put something over it so moisture and oxygen can't get to the metal, theoretically it should not rust anymore.
The only part that makes me doubt how tall is wondering if I got it all with the Ospho or if there's a little rust left underneath there.
That's why I would recommend get is absolutely much of the rust off as you can and only just have a little bit left there and convert that, and then get it coated as soon as possible
Of it looks like rust its...rust. if it looks black or dark...it's Iron phosphate.
You can use fluid film or cosmoline to spray inside
Yep, those are some things I am considering
Ospho is a great product , i have skipped the neutralize step and paid the price for it , POR15 has a terrible reaction with ospho by the way.
Interesting to know. You'd think it was fine to use, since POR's "Metal Ready" prep is basically the same thing and they tell you to use it over that.
@@SealofPerfection the problems were mostly in corners and bends where the ospho accumulated, and was chalky. The ospho expanded and bubbled ,it looked like black rice crispy treats. I love ospho and por15 . I do the inside of fenders and body panels, they will last longer than me.
@@centralscrutinizer76 when my bed was upside down, I had Ospho in a spray bottle and I just flooded it down so it could reach the top of the bed while it was upside down.
That was the only way I could get those places which I knew had surface rust on them at the minimum.
So I am sure it pulled down there and may look like you described. I am actually thinking of using that Majik enamel that is oil-based you can buy from tractor supply, but it does have a hardener you can add to it and just pouring it down in there to try to cover it up. And then probably using fluid film or caviyy wax on it.
Oil base may have a better chance of sticking to that stuff down in there that I can't get to. I just want all the insurance I can get
you’re supposed to remove the white substance that comes out after ospho cures. at least for the best results for applying a top coat.
In my mind, putting water of fresh raw metal will just create more rust?
@@johnnymckissick2735 if you go all the way through the coating that the ospho left it probably would.
@@SealofPerfectioni have epoxy primer. If i clean off the osphos with water will it be ready for epoxy primer?
@@johnnymckissick2735 Check the TDS of your particular brand, but I'm using SPI epoxy and what I did here was how they say to do it before using theirs.
But all epoxy isn't exactly the same, so check your paperwork first.
And remember, I didn't just clean the Ospho with water, I first wet the cured Ospho with more Ospho and let it sit, and then washed it all off to neutralize it.
It's not "fresh raw metal". It has a micro-coating of Iron Phosphate (which gives it that grey look). That you keep. Excess ospho can be neutralized and washed off.
In some videos when using Ospho a whitish film left behind, i think this is excess phosphoric acid that evaporated. If you can get to it there is no problem as you can scotch brite it off, but i plan on wire brushing then putting a rust reducer in my box tube bronco frame. The white film would be hard to get off inside the box tubing and i would not want to leave an acid there to eat the metal when i get moisture in there. Am i way off track here?
@@richardcroll9135 depends on what you're going to put over it. I think oil base is okay to put over that
Yea, I got that too. It's not dried phosphoric acid, which does not dry (it combines with moisture in the air and remains wet). Its some other compound generated most likely by the minerals in the alloy. You can just brush it off and apply another coat of ospho
wondering if you can weld through the ospho ,or should it be neutralized first?
You can weld through it, but I don't know that I would. You don't want any contaminants in your metal, you just want metal and filler
If it's just sheet metal it probably wouldn't hurt anything though. Personally I would grind it off the spot I was about to weld, and just hit it with Ospho again when I was done
Although the info is appreciated can't help but wonder...you sand the ospho surface which doesn't remove the ospho coating? Yet, sanding would remove paint from a surface? Seems illogical.
@@gbnomore3918 I'm not really sanding it so much as I'm just washing it with that pad.
In this particular case, and I probably should have said it in the video, the Ospho was just there as a protective coating over the winter when I wasn't working on it so I did actually want most of it off
There is no "Ospho Surface". Ospho is a solution of Phosphoric Acid. When you spray Ospho on a ferrous surface, the Rust and the micro-surface of the bare metal is converted into IRON PHOSPATE, which is a hard, intert substance which can be painted over. There is residual Phosphoric Acid that remains on the surface. You don't take the Iron Phosphate coating off. You have to neutralize the acid. Use BAKING SODA or mild Sodium Hydroxide (drain cleaner) solution and water (and soap). The residual acid gets neutralized and washed away!!!! NEVER remove the Iron Phosphate that has converted. It prevents rust formation.
@@Systems1 that is true in some cases but not in this case. In this case I need it to be fresh clean metal that I was going to spray epoxy over and then do body work on top of that. I didn't want anything in between the epoxy and the metal.
@@SealofPerfection To each his own. I would never remove the Iron Phosphate generated by the Ospho. Iron Phosphate is chemically-bonded at the molecular level with the steel surface exceeding any protection that epoxy alone can provide.
How do you remove this stuff from good paint that got dripped on😬?
Just wash it off. Rag and some water.
After the Ospho can you add bondo or I have to use a primer first and then the bondo?
Thank you.
I would say it depends on the type of filler you were using. Check the TDS for whatever brand you have.
Theoretically the answer should be yes you can use it
You neutralize any surface Ospho remaining (with baking soda and soapy water), and then you can use Bondo when it dries.
Can it be used inside rusty motorcycle fuel tanks
Yes. Email them and they'll tell you exactly how. I would still probably coat it with something afterwards, just to be safe, but the Ospho can kill the rust first.
Ospho doesn't "kill rust". Its a chemical reaction between Phosphoric Acid (which is what Ospho is, in solution) and Iron Oxide or Steel. The end result is Iron Phosphate, which will look black if it converted from rust, or light grey on bare steel. Either sand blast the interior of your tank first, or just put a bag of steel ball bearings inside your rusty tank, shake it to knock loose any rust, and wet down thoroughly with Ospho and let sit overnight. You can spray more in the next day and let sit for another day. Next day, run a soapy solution of baking soda and water. That should do it. You can run gasoline directly over the Iron Phosphate because it's inert.
How is it holding up now?
Fine. It's coated in epoxy, had body work done, 2k primer and doing the block/prime phase now.
Your ADD is worse than mine lol. I followed these steps and had surface rust all over my area the next day. The scotch pad removed the ospho down to bare metals. Super irritating.
@@johnnymckissick2735 I very lightly wash it with a scotch brite. I don't really sand the stuff off.
And you do need to kind of coat it pretty much immediately
@@SealofPerfection How do you get it off a painted area?
@@johnnymckissick2735I thought I responded to that, but the same way. Wash it off with a rag.
Going back to the rust after you neutralize it, you should only neutralize it if you're going to work on it right then. You shouldn't neutralize it and then just let it sit, neutralize it and then spray it with epoxy right then. It won't matter if it has just a little bit of surface Flash rust. The epoxy will seal that up with no problem
The guy didn't need to use scotch brite. It isn't necessary because water, baking soda, and soap will remove everthing acidic with just a sponge or a soft scrub brush.
You need to clean up your garage
@@larrygriffin7024 no doubt