This just helped me to fix mine by confirming my optispark was not the problem. I hooked up another known good one (or you can just go buy a cheap one for the test then return it), and I still had no spark. Problem was apparently loose connection in the primary wires and plugs to the coil, and module.
I got the same problems with a chevrolet caprice classic station , model 1996 , built at end 1995 - we changed fuel pump and filter , then the ignition coil - nothing changes to better . Car runs moderate , but at acceleration it drops down , kickdown runs - now today we wanna change the optispark and I hope , then it will run again well . I bought the car as a new one and now it has 458.000 kilometres without problems .
What this test covers is if an optispark works without having to go thru all of that, its simple. If the opti on your car is not making spark but the remote opti is then you know your opti is bad. An optispark only needs the opti harness and the coil wire to function. It doesnt need installed on the car
9302z28ss I bought one for my car had the engine rebuilt so everything is new but i still got the one I bought so I guess that's good for when ever something goes wrong I can have it as back up 🤔and test it
I spun mine with a cordless drill with the lights off to get a better look in the dark and only have 4 good ones, going to change the cap and rotor next.
To make this tip even easier, you don't need the drill, and you don't need to hookup the coil wire through the distributor. If you have an exta plug wire, just hook it up to the coil, put a spare spark plug in it, lay it on some grounded metal, and spin the remote opti by hand. If it sparks, you're opti is bad. If it does not.. you got other issues. I just tried this, and got not spark, so good news was my opti was OK, problem was loose connection in the primary wire harness and plugs to the coil and module.
Hi , I just did your suggested test with a spare plug and wire hooked directly to coil and grounded plug to block. It fired the plug. Would you mind explaining to me how this makes opti bad. I working on a 95 vette , it was misfiring all over and backfire thru the throttle body , thank you. I just need to be sure for this customer thank you
I have a 95 z28 5.7 finally found out. After a ignition/ it's was the opti' it would start run, but after 30 idling/driving die, mechanic thought maybe f.filter but, how/why do they do that ?
VG,VG. Thanks. I have a 96 SS no spark, 100K on the motor. I changed the cap and rotor about 20,000 miles ago, not the whole unit. Didn't think of it until the job was over. I have no splash guard and it runs rough when it rains. What do You think of those inexpensive Opti Sparks that are for sale on Ebay. Any opinion? Thanks for the help. R McG
I'm confused...So you said you are testing the opti to see if it's bad. But what are you actually testing? One from the junk yard, or the one that is still on the engine? How are you getting a spark, since the engine has to be running to get one?
I am not getting any spark from the ignition side. I ran a flowchart test via all data and it suggested or pointed out that the OPTi or distributor wiring was bad or bad distributor? Why would I not be getting any spark from the ignition side?
I’ve found this video as very insightful. I have a 96 vette that went dead after having no previous issues. I’m thinking I can check my opti by removing the spark plug while still connected to the wire and turning the engine over to see if I have spark.
@@geneyus6411 nope still looking. I have injector pulse at all injectors. I found that out with a noid light. I verified that the coil was firing a consistent spark. I have 40+ lbs of fuel pressure. I’m about to check the fuel pump relay and install a new fuel filter. I back probed all the connections and they’ve all checked out with the proper ohms and wattage. If the fuel pump relay and filter doesn’t work then I give up. I may swap the Opti out on warranty but I’m getting all the correct signals.
@@geneyus6411 I replaced it along with the coil. Both ac delco. I back probed the connectors and the signals are being sent. I have 2.5 volts ac at the B wire. 12 volts on both A and D that go to the coil. And at C the ground ohms out at zero with key off. The coil is throwing a consistent spark when I test by air gap with my test light. I also checked the wiring on the Opti side too. It checked out. I haven’t gotten around to checking the fuel pump relay but I will later today. I will prime up, hold pressure, crank over, and sputter a little before dying. I don’t hear the fuel pump running for 2 seconds, as suggested, after it primes. I did install an aftermarket Walbro 255lph. I may have to go back with an oem pump but I just happened to have the walbro laying around.
+Mike Jack I have the same OPTi I'm not getting any spark on the ignition side although it said after following a flow chart: said that the distributor wiring or distributor was bad distributor wiring is good I'm at a complete and freaking total loss it's driving me sane spent over a month...
do not buy any opti's on ebay I bought one once it was Dead On Arrival and when I opened it up and compared to an AC delco you can tell the quality between the two . the Ac delco is the way to go forget about MSD and other out there get original OEM .
question: i have a 95 firebird formula. it cranks but wont start. I was told it was my optispark, replaced that, still no luck. Went through replacing my ignition control module after taking it to autozone and found it was bad so thats replaced..ignition coil still good after getting that tested. checked for fuses and found my ignition fuse was bad. replaced that and still cranks but no start. what would be my next step?my engine only has 10,000 if that. its a brand new rebuilt.
Irvin Clark i would check and see if youre getting spark by removing a spark plug and putting it against any part of the engine with a spark plug plugged onto it from the opti and have someone crank the engine over if you have white/blue spark that's good, if you have spark next is to check for fuel pressure at the fuel rails by putting a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rails Schrader valve located behind the intake by the fuel pressure regulator, if you have fuel pressure (should read 40lbs maybe alittle higher) and it stays youre good, if it bleeds down fast to anything below 30lbs it could be your fuel pump, the way to test that is to spray starting fluid into th throttlebody and cranking the engine. if it starts its a fuel starvation issue, next it if everything else checks out, it could be your fuel pressure regulator had a torn diaphragm, how you test for this is you pull the vac line off of it and crank the engine, if fuel shoots out or it looks wet AT ALL, the fuel pressure regulator needs replaced, now if all checks out and nothing looks to be the cause, I would start looking at the wiring harness for splits or bare spots, and if all checks out there id say the ECM is going to need to be replaced in order for the car to run again, hope this helps,
These really should have had a sensor at every 120° and a switch in the engine to change over to an alternate in case one went bad. I just spray the hell out of mine with cleaner for now when it acts up. Doing anything with coolant is scary
i'm currently having major problems with mine obd2 says p1371 and i understand it may be the distributor. i have extreme power loss loud pinging backfire car chugging hard and wants to die when i accelerate. does that sound like i need a new opti ?
I would check fuel pressure first. Sounds like it may be weak fuel pressure. It should be at 40psi at an idle and about 43psi Wide open throttle. Any lower then 36psi and you should replace the pump. But pull one of your spark plugs and check for white or blueish spark if you have that the opti is putting out good spark.
that doesn't check "low res Signal" (example: injector Control, security) side of distributor. bad check, waste of time. car might not even run you are Plain Wrong.
Some opti's only fail at engine operating temp. Takes 15-20 minutes of driving to find out. This is not a conclusive test, at all.... You need an oscilloscope to monitor the high-res while soaking at 170 degrees F. Only then will you see the cheap Chinese electronics create false triggers on the high res. If high res isn't perfect, computer won't open injectors, or fire.....
cadillacdon46 doesn't say this was removed without doing all of that, pay attention to the video. it says that this was a known good unit, and my original bad unit was still on the car.
Man wish I would of saw this vid 13 years ago, Ive replaced my opti 5 times over the period. 94 non vented. Glad you made this.
Which optisparks did you replace with so I can avoid them??
This just helped me to fix mine by confirming my optispark was not the problem. I hooked up another known good one (or you can just go buy a cheap one for the test then return it), and I still had no spark. Problem was apparently loose connection in the primary wires and plugs to the coil, and module.
Hell yeah , got a 1995 corvette with super weak spark. The FSM lead me to distributor , i have it out , going to tey this test , thanks a million👍👍😵💫
I got the same problems with a chevrolet caprice classic station , model 1996 , built at end 1995 - we changed fuel pump and filter , then the ignition coil - nothing changes to better . Car runs moderate , but at acceleration it drops down , kickdown runs - now today we wanna change the optispark and I hope , then it will run again well . I bought the car as a new one and now it has 458.000 kilometres without problems .
What this test covers is if an optispark works without having to go thru all of that, its simple. If the opti on your car is not making spark but the remote opti is then you know your opti is bad. An optispark only needs the opti harness and the coil wire to function. It doesnt need installed on the car
9302z28ss I bought one for my car had the engine rebuilt so everything is new but i still got the one I bought so I guess that's good for when ever something goes wrong I can have it as back up 🤔and test it
Am I correct in saying the coil makes the spark??? Not the opti??
So if you have a bad coil, no spark!
Good video, but to test while on the vehicle I'd assume that you would need 2 people (1 to crank ) (1 to look for spark under the hood ) ?
did you check if it worked on all cylinders?
I spun mine with a cordless drill with the lights off to get a better look in the dark and only have 4 good ones, going to change the cap and rotor next.
That's ingenious man. Good vid.
This is still a awesome video! Thanks!
To make this tip even easier, you don't need the drill, and you don't need to hookup the coil wire through the distributor. If you have an exta plug wire, just hook it up to the coil, put a spare spark plug in it, lay it on some grounded metal, and spin the remote opti by hand. If it sparks, you're opti is bad. If it does not.. you got other issues. I just tried this, and got not spark, so good news was my opti was OK, problem was loose connection in the primary wire harness and plugs to the coil and module.
Hi , I just did your suggested test with a spare plug and wire hooked directly to coil and grounded plug to block. It fired the plug. Would you mind explaining to me how this makes opti bad. I working on a 95 vette , it was misfiring all over and backfire thru the throttle body , thank you. I just need to be sure for this customer thank you
I have a 95 z28 5.7 finally found out. After a ignition/ it's was the opti' it would start run, but after 30 idling/driving die, mechanic thought maybe f.filter but, how/why do they do that ?
VG,VG. Thanks. I have a 96 SS no spark, 100K on the motor. I changed the cap and rotor about 20,000 miles ago, not the whole unit. Didn't think of it until the job was over. I have no splash guard and it runs rough when it rains. What do You think of those inexpensive Opti Sparks that are for sale on Ebay. Any opinion?
Thanks for the help.
R McG
They're good optis, they do their job grab one and swap it out
🤔
great idea but sometimes like the case of mine when running for 25 minutes optispark starts to malfunction on start up it runs normal
I'm confused...So you said you are testing the opti to see if it's bad. But what are you actually testing? One from the junk yard, or the one that is still on the engine? How are you getting a spark, since the engine has to be running to get one?
I am not getting any spark from the ignition side. I ran a flowchart test via all data and it suggested or pointed out that the OPTi or distributor wiring was bad or bad distributor?
Why would I not be getting any spark from the ignition side?
I’ve found this video as very insightful. I have a 96 vette that went dead after having no previous issues. I’m thinking I can check my opti by removing the spark plug while still connected to the wire and turning the engine over to see if I have spark.
Did this fix your issue on the Corvette???
You also have parts called a coil and ignition control module. Either of those quits and you are dead too!
@@geneyus6411 nope still looking. I have injector pulse at all injectors. I found that out with a noid light. I verified that the coil was firing a consistent spark. I have 40+ lbs of fuel pressure. I’m about to check the fuel pump relay and install a new fuel filter. I back probed all the connections and they’ve all checked out with the proper ohms and wattage. If the fuel pump relay and filter doesn’t work then I give up. I may swap the Opti out on warranty but I’m getting all the correct signals.
@@AskaBlackDude What about the ignition control module??
@@geneyus6411 I replaced it along with the coil. Both ac delco. I back probed the connectors and the signals are being sent. I have 2.5 volts ac at the B wire. 12 volts on both A and D that go to the coil. And at C the ground ohms out at zero with key off. The coil is throwing a consistent spark when I test by air gap with my test light. I also checked the wiring on the Opti side too. It checked out. I haven’t gotten around to checking the fuel pump relay but I will later today. I will prime up, hold pressure, crank over, and sputter a little before dying. I don’t hear the fuel pump running for 2 seconds, as suggested, after it primes. I did install an aftermarket Walbro 255lph. I may have to go back with an oem pump but I just happened to have the walbro laying around.
@@AskaBlackDude any progress??
Did the 94-97 Optispark work , on the 1993 motor ????? I have been told that 93 to 94 changed
Thank you ,
Harford Capps . North Carolina
+Mike Jack I have the same OPTi I'm not getting any spark on the ignition side although it said after following a flow chart: said that the distributor wiring or distributor was bad distributor wiring is good I'm at a complete and freaking total loss it's driving me sane spent over a month...
do not buy any opti's on ebay I bought one once it was Dead On Arrival and when I opened it up and compared to an AC delco you can tell the quality between the two .
the Ac delco is the way to go forget about MSD and other out there get original OEM .
good idea wish I had a spare opti
question: i have a 95 firebird formula. it cranks but wont start. I was told it was my optispark, replaced that, still no luck. Went through replacing my ignition control module after taking it to autozone and found it was bad so thats replaced..ignition coil still good after getting that tested. checked for fuses and found my ignition fuse was bad. replaced that and still cranks but no start. what would be my next step?my engine only has 10,000 if that. its a brand new rebuilt.
Irvin Clark i would check and see if youre getting spark by removing a spark plug and putting it against any part of the engine with a spark plug plugged onto it from the opti and have someone crank the engine over if you have white/blue spark that's good,
if you have spark next is to check for fuel pressure at the fuel rails by putting a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rails Schrader valve located behind the intake by the fuel pressure regulator, if you have fuel pressure (should read 40lbs maybe alittle higher) and it stays youre good, if it bleeds down fast to anything below 30lbs it could be your fuel pump, the way to test that is to spray starting fluid into th throttlebody and cranking the engine. if it starts its a fuel starvation issue,
next it if everything else checks out, it could be your fuel pressure regulator had a torn diaphragm, how you test for this is you pull the vac line off of it and crank the engine, if fuel shoots out or it looks wet AT ALL, the fuel pressure regulator needs replaced,
now if all checks out and nothing looks to be the cause, I would start looking at the wiring harness for splits or bare spots, and if all checks out there id say the ECM is going to need to be replaced in order for the car to run again,
hope this helps,
Irvin Clark temperature sensor on water pump?
These really should have had a sensor at every 120° and a switch in the engine to change over to an alternate in case one went bad. I just spray the hell out of mine with cleaner for now when it acts up. Doing anything with coolant is scary
In the engine bay I mean. Something hidden away in a fuze box or something so people don't mess with it
i'm currently having major problems with mine obd2 says p1371 and i understand it may be the distributor. i have extreme power loss loud pinging backfire car chugging hard and wants to die when i accelerate. does that sound like i need a new opti ?
I would check fuel pressure first. Sounds like it may be weak fuel pressure. It should be at 40psi at an idle and about 43psi Wide open throttle. Any lower then 36psi and you should replace the pump. But pull one of your spark plugs and check for white or blueish spark if you have that the opti is putting out good spark.
Check all your major vacuum lines 1st before you fall into the opti black hole!
coil pack conversion... hopefully no more problems for me
I tested mines the same way but without the drill. Same result
Kool that helped .
Awesome
niiiiicccceee bro
Just did this no spark, so it's my Opti or my computer. Computer runs other stuff. It's vented on a 94'. ,this test should not matter anyway. Thanks.
that doesn't check "low res Signal" (example: injector Control, security) side of distributor. bad check, waste of time. car might not even run you are Plain Wrong.
Some opti's only fail at engine operating temp. Takes 15-20 minutes of driving to find out. This is not a conclusive test, at all.... You need an oscilloscope to monitor the high-res while soaking at 170 degrees F. Only then will you see the cheap Chinese electronics create false triggers on the high res. If high res isn't perfect, computer won't open injectors, or fire.....
🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘👍👍👍
thanks man!
no problem
how the hell you get that out without removing the water pump and crank ? ain't no way in hell
cadillacdon46 doesn't say this was removed without doing all of that, pay attention to the video. it says that this was a known good unit, and my original bad unit was still on the car.
damn my fault relax bro
cadillacdon46 sorry didntnmean to come off with an attitude.
cadillacdon46 😂😭😂😭😭😂 hahahha
9302z28ss 😂😭😂😭😭😂😭 hahahahha