OCSS-051 PVC Cabin Ventilation - Mini-Cruiser Sailboat Build
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ม.ค. 2025
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Yrvind’s video about my ventilation system: • 9 Mar 2023 Appropriat...
Yrvind kindly promoting OCSS in his Jan 16th video: • 16 Jan 2023 Hooks for ...
Information about joining ABS pipes to PVC: • How to connect ABS to PVC
In this episode I build the PVC ventilation system up in the bow. I also test its ability to drain water.
THE BOAT: Scow Bow Mini-Cruiser. 14’ long (4.25M,) with a 6’ beam (1.8M.) She features twin keels and a Ljungström rig. Every design decision is made to keep her simple, strong, and watertight.
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Opening music produced by Yosef Flumeri.
Closing music Playback by Power Glove, remixed by Perry.
Mini-cruiser, Micro-cruiser, Pocket Cruiser, scow bow, twin keel, PVC foam core, garage DIY boat build, boatbuilding, Ljungstrom rig, San Diego California, #minicruiser #boatbuilding #boatrestoration #refit #sailboat #boat #sailing #solosailing #pocketcruiser #dinghysailing #sandiego
How would you attach pipes so they are watertight but easy to remove? Some kind of tape maybe?
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I would create a little recess in the pipe and fit an o-ring. To hold the fitting safely together fit a short self-tapping screw
Use a compression fitting. Swimming pool fittings will probably work with your diameter of pipe
I think you'll be fine without sealing, except it could come loose. I liked the idea of the pool connectors someone mentioned. You could also try a butyl tape. It's watertight and easy to remove.
dont you need another vent to create some sort of pull through and possibly some fans to blow the wind in the right direction?
If you put a valve right before your air output, you could close the system off and flush it out with a cleaner and water.
Otherwise, I would seal the pipes with aquarium silicone sealant. If you seal the seems, it would be easy to remove with a razor blade later to get access.
Great work as always!
Hi Perry.
Thanks for mentioning my channel.
Try to awoid brass on a boat as it may become brittle and crack bronze or cupper. You can also make the parts in glassfibre.
Use polystyrene as pattern leave it in place then melt it down with a solvent. A bit messy.
'sailed the Atlantic with him and a Girl' The man is a wise old bird that is great way to keep warm :)
If you want to heat and bend pvc or pex with heat, take an amount of sand that fills the pipe and put it in a pot. Heat at 350 for about 30 min, stirring multiple time to thoroughly dry the sand as it heats. Then pore it into the pipe and wait a few minutes while the sand heats the pipe. You can then bend the pipe and the sand will prevent the pipe from kinking. Lots of videos available on this technique. I have used it many times and it works great.
Cool trick! Thanks.
I agree ! Sand works with copper pipes too. My plumber is a wizard and I enjoy watching him do magic work with his tools (including this sand from Portugal).
I also agree with M. Silvius regarding a valve at your through hull. I know you are trying to reduce cost and complexity, but safety as sea, especially solo sailing, is paramount. Also, at the base of the U-bend where you incorporated the 1/2” pvc drain for the through hull, instead of using a 90 degree elbow, perhaps it would be better to use a tee (bullhead configuration with the run of the tee facing outboard and inboard) with a serviceable cap facing inboard end. This would allow you to clear any debris/blockage that may occur if your dorade ingests any seaweed, etc.
Guys like this make the internet great. Men can "talk and listen" to other men who tell us *why* they do things. It's the WHY that is important, ie. What glue was used and why it is good and the other glues are 'less good', informative stuff. And then to top it off a job is never done until it passes testing.
You can buy glue made specifically for mating PVC to ABS. I got a chuckle out of trying to glue PEX. Nothing sticks to it except melted PEX. A DIY compression fitting made by drilling the drain cleanout cap and finding a suitable o-ring would be easy, but you would have to secure the drain tube to avoid pulling it out.
I realize the brass drain thru-hull fitting will be above the waterline but I think a shutoff at that spot is imperative. If your vent pipe integrity is ever compromised for what ever reason that may be, not having a shut off there would allow a direct opening into the cabin from the outside way too close to the water for comfort. Any minor wave would push water inside the boat. Any amount of heel will put that drain in the water. Not good. Make the thru hull fitting out of a threaded bronze tube that is sufficiently long to protrude on the inside of the hull by about an inch. That way you can screw on a brass shut-off valve on the inside. I also would be inclined to use barbed brass fittings with a hose in place of the 3/4 inch PVC coming out of the drain in your black U trap. This will facilitate removal for service and in a pinch you could disconnect the air vent drain and run your bilge pump out there too.
I do not trust how that drain is connected to the trap piece. Don't rush to do this if you can't get the right part. When you're alone in the ocean. You want what's keeping you afloat to be solid. Plumbers tape to a opening will blow the first time it's hit with real pressure
I think just keeping a cork or rubber stopper around would do the trick until repairs can be made. Stopping the boat or going on the other tack easily brings the drain out of the water.
@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat it's better to build to not need that then plan to fix it. Plus they probably make a hose or PVC adapter for that thread your connecting too. You could drill a hole in the cap the same size of the white PVC. Thread the PVC pipe through the cap you drilled out and then flare it. That way you can apply sealant and get a compression fitting. Plus if you're upside down and that pipes open it will allow water into the boat cause it won't have the internal air pressure keeping it out
It would require some refitting of the assembly, however if you were to use rubber connectors rather than PVC connectors your temporary fixing of the joints would be solved with a couple stainless steel worm drive hose clamps. If the ends were cut square and accurate the rubber would never be in contact with water and therefore not be subject to dry rot for a long long time. 👍
use silcone thick wall tube, remember freezing temps are possible.
Wow you sure know how to trigger my contractor's OCD! Mixing PVC and ABS! My heart is pounding and I think I need to visit the ER for an EKG! So glad you scrapped the glued pex - that would have killed me. Fyi there are brass fittings threaded on both ends and cheap threaded adapters made of PVC that would form a more "conventional" transition than whatever sealant you used. A temporary "glue" for your joints could be latex caulk (no silicon) but don't use too much or it might as well be permanent - just use it externally not on the mated surfaces if you want to be able to pull them apart later. I do wonder since ABS elbows exist - why PVC? Or the other way -PVC pipe exists - why ABS?
😂 I think the trouble started because I wanted to use all white PVC, but they only had the return bend in ABS, then the straight pipe was a couple dollars cheaper if I went ABS. Then later I decided a white straight pipe should be installed for the pipe that goes through the deck, so that it would be easier to paint white. Ended up BACK at Lowes to buy white PVC pipe for that. It'll work fine, but yeah I would do it differently if I had to start over.
Liam, as a retired union pipefitter of 50 years, I too cringed with the pipe mix! But considering the use and circumstances, I will give Perry a pass👍
The Star Wars bit at the beginning killed me. Nice one. You big nerd.
It's true, I watch them once a year.
I watch the Star Wars Christmas Special every year for Christmas. We might be family.
@@Stupha_Kinpendous That's the only one I have never watched, I have heard it is truly, unforgivably awful. I also will likely never watch episodes 8 & 9 again.
@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat It is SPECTACULARLY awful. One of the worst things I've ever seen. Absolutely worth it, though. And it grows on you.
If you have any concerns with ventilation you can always add an inline fan on one end
Spiral bender for the little blue pipe
Am thinking maybe you could just apply an external bead of silicone to the joints since they're already essentially watertight with no seal. Also maybe clamp/strap them in place as necessary just to eliminate the possibility of something inadvertently pulling apart?
On a second watch, the vent system reminded me of the shape of a tuba. Hope you have a way to tune it if it becomes necessary. Nice work Captain. Have a great week ahead.
Haha, secondary use: fog horn.
@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat That is a great idea.
Some sort of cut off value incase of emergencies seems perhaps sensible ? ... loving watching your progress
I would just put a self taping screw to hold it in place im a bit worried about your brass drain salt water and brass make a good battery but keep up the good work John
For tube bending there are metal springs that you need to enter into the tube. They will keep the shape while bending and you pull them out after.
Good advice
In the old days 1950-s for metal pipes we used sand and a wooden plug in each end.
If you do not have the metal spring maybee a rope will work
@@SvenYrvindExlex idea of sand it is really great. Good luck Sven with your adventures.
@@SvenYrvindExlex - I think rope would compress too easily during the bending process.
The other comments about improving the drain thru hole fitting/drain tube/adding shut off valve for safety seem very logical.
good video thanks ( you should find a adapter fitting in home depot or Lowes for the drain line)
Most smaller sized drainage in uk uses polypropylene fittings that are gasket and screw down, so fully able to take apart
To make it even more resistant in a rollover, you could have the air intake on deck to the furtherest away side
You could try cutting a shallow channel ion the straight pipe and use a thin o ring to seal the joint.
Good work. I would make the the fixing permanent except at the two ends, one on the bulkhead and one going on the deck. I would make spare ventilation kit to just replace when needed for example during maintenence.
My thoughts are that the lower bend is to deep as the air has a very long way to go 🤔
So good, thank love the foot action:)
🤣 It took good coordination.
your ventilation is a super design. For temporary sealant you could use a self vulcanizing tape. I think the sealant capability would be strong enough and you can simply cut it away if necessary. Only the lower joints I would bond together as there could be a water column while listing to the starboard side.
Thank you, and good idea.
For removable connections just use elbows or fittings with a rubber packing seal/gasket that slides over the pipe.
Hi Perry, in my opinion you have made a hole in your boat. When sailing the drain will be below the water line and as found out by Archimedes the water will enter your cabin…… the solution could be to fit a non return valve in the drain. But I doubt if that will work with so low overpressure.
Yes when sailing on a port tack the drain will likely be underwater. A little water will enter the pipe, but not high enough to come in the cabin, which is quite a ways up. Everything will be tested once she's in the water.
If you want to disassemble the pvc tubes, mark the connections with a marker line. When reassembling you will be as precise as a pencil line.
I like your thinking.
I would have added a value just after it enters the yacht for when it's very rough outside. Should the vessel turn upside down no water will enter the yacht.
Thanks, due to the big U shape it shouldn't allow any water in through a full rollover. But I was thinking if really rough weather was expected I could just replace the cowling on deck with a cap to keep out all water.
@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat a cap requires you to leave the safety of the cockpit.
A value can be turned off from inside. I also would not have any holes in the hull. I would have a bucket. Which could be hand or pumped empty.
At least the only holes are above the waterline, most yachts have so many below water holes for all kinds of intakes and drains, plus the propshaft and depth sounder and on and on and on...@@BruceSinclair-w6k
Great video, thanks 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Regarding the temporary seal, why not use compression fittings which have rubber gaskets and threaded connections which can be removed easily.
hahaha! Your Star Wars skit had me laughing.
Pretty embarrassing, but I left it in😂.
@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat Nope, that was great!
Great idea that vent system. I would suggest to mount a sucker scoop outside on the hull over the drain outlet. Similar to self drainers on open sail boats. It will prevent water being pushed inside.
Is it useful, though? Water entering this way would be drained immediately.
I was thinking of having a rubber flap to prevent waves from pushing water in, but I decided I'll try sailing with it as is and see if it's needed. I suspect no water can be pushed in from the little drain hard enough that it can make it all the way up to the cabin vent.
Regarding your ventilation piping, specifically the joints that you want to “seal” but would also like to be able to disassemble, I have a suggestion. What I would do is butter the joints with dielectric grease (silicone based). It is waterproof, odorless and inert. Where the piping is not going to be subjected to any significant pressure, it should work fine. I would also add one small, accessible if possible, SS screw to each unglued joint as insurance in order to avoid an unintended separation and to lock things up.
Thank you, I like the idea.
Great episode Capt. Perry. Thanks for sharing. I like your vent system! Never seen it before but looks like it'll work as designed. Better than dorades.
Thanks 👍
It's coming along very nicely 👍
those joints you want to temporary seal i would,nt put anything like compounds into the sleeve of the joint it will harden eventually ,best thing i can think of is the very sticky aluminium tape it would seal perfect on outside of joint and when removing use a small blade to cut around join edge
Aluminum tape, thank you that's a good one.
Hi cap' , nice work! For the vent system, the water won't get in if the boat is up side down, OK. But what if the boat lays en its side? If the tube is under the water level, won't it get in?
Hard to imagine the boat staying in that unstable position for more than a couple seconds. I think the drain will be above waterline even on her side due to the beam up at the bow being more narrow and most the weigh being back aft. But we'll see, some small adjustments can fix it if there's a problem.
Looks good Perry!! I saw Sven was talking about this and your boat a little bit ago. Are you gonna take your boat across the ocean?? Anyways thanks for the share and finally feeling spring here on Cape Cod ✌️
That's the plan!
Yes, if the boat lays over water won't pour through the cowl into the vent, they are so far separated that both under water isn't likely. But what about the drain and the vent? If the boat lays over on her starboard side just over 90 degrees, would the vent and the drain tube be below waterline at the same time?
Possibly, and there are a couple tweaks I can think of to fix it without much trouble. But, it's also possible that because the beam is less at the bow and the weight is mostly aft, that the whole system will stay above the waterline when on her side. We'll see.
To bend PVC pipe without kinking it, pack the pipe solid with sand first then heat and bend.
Could you build another version of the same boat to sell?
Well... I guess if I can build one, I can build two.
Moonshiners used a paste made from water and flour . They use it to seal pressurized lines . Not sure how it would work in a marine environment.
dont you need another vent to create some sort of pull through and possibly some fans to blow the wind in the right direction?
There are 2 vents, check out the video before this one, OCSS-050. No fans inside my vents, I want to keep things simple by reducing the amount of electrical components in the boat.
Wouldn’t a higher vent on doghouse or it’s side offer safer and better ventilation ?
There's an intake near the aft end of the doghouse, exhaust up forward by the mast. That way I get some air flow across the cabin.
To make it removable Glue your elbows, cut it in straight sections leaving like 2 or so inches before an elbow/fittings and use a couple 2 inch furncos to join the sections while also leaving the option to make it removable. Furnco are rubber coupling designed specifically for joining two pipes together, theres a couple different style but the all ruber with 2 stainless clamps would work just fine. Maybe i missed the part but why is your trap so low and why bother with PVC to ABS? FYI you can buy transition glue for pvc to abs. Its green and will get the plumber off your back.. if you must use pvc to abs thats the correct glue to use to glue the two together.
16:11 Really enjoying following the progress! Currently wondering why you were concerned with UV exposure on the drain pipe but not on the exposed intake pipe coming through the top deck?
It will get painted.
This will work fine, but since you are talking extreme cirumstance into account, I wonder if the water pressure is and indication of the pipe completely filling with water beyond the diameter. In other words blocking air flow before the water is drained. And could that lead to problems if air & water mixture is forced down the vent with the water pressing up. Doubtful, but something to be mindful of. Turning the vent away from the storm wind direction would solve that. Then there is the theoretical possibility of a venturi effect sucking air out instead of in. Again most likely not a realistic scenario..
This one up forward is actually only an exhaust vent. The cowl on deck will face downwind. Air will be sucked out of the cabin here. Air intake is back aft at the main bulkhead.
No place for brass on a boat. Salt water leeches the zinc out the brass and it becomes brittle! Bronze or stainless , or plastic only please .
This can't be stressed enough. Brass does *NOT* belong on a seagoing vessel!
That makes sense with zinc being the most common sacrificial anode
Thanks, I'll look around. Maybe some copper fitting would work.
@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat bronze or reinforced plastic only for strength.
Because this is not a pressure system you can use beeswax on the joints that you are not glueing. Simple apply a fairly reasonable amount of wax to the female part of the joint . That will keep the joint inplace and stop any water leaking and allow you to dismantle the system should you wish..
Butyl Tape 😊🤙🏄☘
Hm. Problem with your construction might be: On a starboard tack there can be water standing in the horizontal part between the first and the second elbow. If the boat is heavily rolling, the water will drain, but with a steady heeling to port it might prevent ventilation.
There would be enough ventilation from the other side I think.
@@cornishhh The two must have flow at the same time, one in one out.
I don't think much water will get in normally. Even when heeled, the natural movement of ocean sailing will empty that pipe in short order.
If I understood correctly, there are going to be 4 of these vents, 2 at the front and 2 at the back of the cabin, right?
Hi, just 1 forward and 1 aft.
Never ever use bathroom silicone on anything you don’t want to trash afterwards. Once you get silicone on a surface nothing will ever stick to that surface again, not even silicone, without a lot of chemical cleaning or sanding. If you want that kind of sealant use Sikaflex or something similar, silicone isn’t salt water resistant either, Sikaflex (and similar) is.
years too late I know :) but if you want to bend a pipe without it kinking fill it full of sand before you bend it. This has been used to bend copper since copper pluming was invented :)
Plumbing.
From the Latin ‘plumbum’, meaning ‘lead’, because the original plumbing was lead pipe.
06:18 - in the future when trying to bend pipe or tube, cover 1 opening with duct tape, then fill the pipe with sand, then cover the other end with duct tape. then you can bend without it kinking.
also, kink shaming isn't cool dude :P
Thanks, it's a good idea.
@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat no worries, you have given me so many ideas, i'm glad to be able to pay it back even if it's just a little bit
The fumes of heated PVC is very toxic.
Never silicone on a boat
I think that vent should bi very strong an safe. Glue it very tightly and well. If u got a problem with that and the drain is near the waterline, u can’t sail on starboard tack.
Sound advice. Someone suggested dielectric grease and that sounds like a pretty good option.
Very cool vent setup. I like how it drains. If you are looking for a 90 degree pecs, they make these small "brackets" that hold the pipe in the 90 degree position. th-cam.com/video/okGf5pYHeuk/w-d-xo.html Got some of this going on in my RV I'm living in! LOL!
Thank you. I was trying to go for a tighter turn than that. I should have just used an elbow fitting from the start.
next time use a metal pipe tap and die to the pvc to put thread on tube drain.
Good idea, thanks.
cool