How to make chain mail
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video I show you how to make butted 4-1 English mail. This technique can be used to make all sorts of mail items. The wire used is 1.6mm galvanized steel wire, cheap and easy to find.
Please be careful when winding wire. If you get your finger caught you can get hurt really badly. Kids should not attempt this without an adult to help.
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i think this is the most simple way that someone in a video has explained how chainmail is made like I'm genuinely shocked he went straight to the point unlike other videos, so thank you!
Thanks for the nice comment 😀
so cool... I have a project I am doing with Richard III so I will construct a chainmail background for my piece in silver paper.
it's a long process but it's 100% worth it
Interesting technique with the wire!
you really deserve more subscribers
pulling the spring open before cutting the rings off actually seems like a great time saver as opposed to buying the rings premade since those rings will ship to you in an in between state, not open nor closed.
Thank you this is an incredible video
i was lucky enough to be the guy at the entrance to a computer shop whom checked recipts of customers as they came and went from my store.
and in between customers passing by, i would pick up my mini pliers and weave away.
getting paid to do a hobby.
i got half way through a shirt . I tried 10mm 1cm rings and 2-3cm rings with 6 links.
i found the tight connections of the 1cm rings much more pleasing.
I used to take a bucket of rings along on road trips a nd just weave away. It's quite meditative. The smaller ring and tighter weaves look so much nice
Much easier to keep mail on that wire and continue going back and forth.
Thank you this was great!
Dankie jy baie tyd op jou hande .glo nie ek sal dit kan doen nie
So cool! Do you have a video for how to make the head piece?
Unfortunately not yet, there's quite a few nice tutorials on YT. Search for "Chain mail coif"
Great stuff, I have a question if you don’t mind, I have a shit load of silver bullion , in you opinion would I be the coolest dude at the local medieval fair if I make a full length chain mail suit out of pure .999 silver , or can I use stainless steel . Also is there a market for making those stainless mail gloves butchers wear ? I am stuck at home on a iv drip for 12 hours everyday , one thing I do have is a hell of a lot of time and nothing to do, I am dyeing of boredom and it would be nice to have something to show for all this time I have. For the record that was a serious question about making a mail suit from pure silver, being the most conductive metal I will have to look out for lightning strikes . Thank you for the cool video and inspiration , I will start tomorrow morning I am very excited .
Glad you like the video, sorry for the delayed response.
Honestly I never though of making maille from silver. Pure silver is very soft though and I think there will come a time where the shear weight of the mail would pull the silver rings appart. A silver alloy would be better.
As for stainless steel you can surely make mail out of that. It's going to be really hard on your hands though. Stainless doesn't bend or cut as easily as mild steel, but if you have good cutters and keep the SS wire on the thinner side there is no reason to not do it.
I found making mail very relaxing while watching Netflix.
The market for mail is really not worth the effort. The amount of time it requires to make mail far outweighs the money someone would be willing to pay for it. A butcher would rather just buy from a supplier directly than from a craftsman in my opinion. Gloves are also quite tricky because you would have to make really small rings with reasonably thin wire. It's totally doable and would be a good learning experience though.
A nice starting point would be to make a maille coif. That's where I started. It gives a nice indication of time required and establishes a workflow pattern that you can refer to later.
Good luck and keep me updated on how it goes, feel free to ask if you need help....
@@ManinaCanArmoury , great advice thank you. Got lots of time I shall get started and will keep you up to date. Cheers man in a can.
Can you do a tutorial on the shoulder piece for the Lorica Hamata?
Hi Lee. Unfortunately I'm not doing any more videos currently due to health issues. Thanks for watching though
Het jy al getraai gewoone chain koop by die harde waare winkel die kleintjies vir R12 n meter dit uit mekaar gehaal en traai chainmail maak van dit?
Great. Video
Thanks!
#4 Way of making Mail-
Punching Rings, like modern Washers, from a sheet of metal.
Where can I get the ring to buy
A onde compro.o arame das argolas
Can i ask please about the diameter of the rod what you used?
I believe it was 8mm. You can use any size you like really, depends on the feel you're going for
@@ManinaCanArmoury Thanks! It looked like the good diameter for me too, so i planned to use the same :)
I made a chainmail ring... Yeap
The rings were made bi winding copper the empty ink tube of a pen
It was extremely frustrating
yeah it's sooo much work tbh
👍
Tip for viewers: Its galvanized, and butted. Never use galvanized, it looks just bad and makes you look like a lamp post. Secondly: Butted maille is garbage, and only good for LARP. Riveted maille on the other hand is far better and historically accurate
Counterpoints: It's dirt cheap, stronger than iron, can be blackened to look more authentic, is still adequate for SCA fighting, doesn't require specialized tools to make, is much quicker to make, and (if you're buying) doesn't cost several hundred dollars for a hauberk.
At 6:05 i stopped watching your video. That was completely dangerous. What the hell was that. If that went wrong you would have had a length of wire whipping you and whipping around with out having a way to stop it. OMG. That is insanely INSANELY DANGEROUS.
There are way to many videos like this on TH-cam.
You get someone with no experience with working with mentals or machinery following you with what you just did i could and can lead to then been badly hurt or even worse killed.
I am truly disappointed and disgusted over your complete complacency and disregard to safety.
This is not a how to video.
Its a HOW NEVER TO DO VIDEO.
And yes i reported your video because how dangerous your using that drill press is.
I respect the fact that you took the time to point out my lapse in safety protocol in this video. What I neglected to point out is that my drill press is very low powered and can be stopped by hand with very little force at all. I generally try to be as safe as possible but I do slip up sometimes when it comes to safety, guess it is a lack of experience. I'm not an expert and learn as I go along, some things I guess you do not want to learn the hard way and I apologize if my ways are not appropriate in terms of safety. I do not claim to be an expert and just share my experience. Luckily I haven't hurt myself yet and I hope that I haven't put you off armour making, it is a great hobby and well worth investing into.
Use a no- hands wire feeding device. Keeps your hands out of the high potential energy zone.
Pre opens links in the coil; good time saver.
I don't like using needlenose iers for butted links, as they slip a lot and don't give the proper grip. Ilike the square noses on regular pliers. They do have a few specialized uses in tweaking and sorting riveted rings, which can end up inconsistent sometimes.
@@chraven69 And you managed to accomplish nothing, Karen... least of all pointing out an error because not every tool is a high-powered menace and he already covered that by instructing you to set it to a very low RPM. Good job.
Maybe you should look into outsourcing the thinking. You're just bad at it.
I use a piece of scrap oak in which I stick the rod to have a way to hold the rod while it is spinning. I feed my wire (in my case a Sg2 mig welding wire of 1,6mm) through two drilled holes (which are on an angle, I believe about 165-170 degrees to each other) in the oak so the wire has a bit of friction while it is going throught the two holes. The exits the wood and meets a small hole in the rod in which the wire is fed through to hold in onto the rod. When the rod starts to spin by means of a handheld drill the wire is coild onto the rod. In the wood piece I fastened a large washer (a so called fender washer) which has been slit and twisted into a former to help put even pressure on the side of the growing coil. This is because you want the coil to be wound nice and tight but more importantly even and without bunching up or leaving gaps.
The wood piece with the two holes (brake/friction provider) and the twisted fender washer (as a former/straightner) are shaped so it can be held in one hand while the other hand holds the drill. I simply mount the wire emerging from the wood piece into the rod, push the wood piece towards the drill and start winding. The former makes sure the wire can't bunch up and the pressure I exert in the direction of the drill ensures an even wind of the coils.
I salvaged my rod (mandrel) from an old deskjet printer and it is about 9,5mm in diameter. My rings (as a result of some spring back) are slightly under 10mm inner diameter which is a historically correct size and a nice middle between too large and be ugly and too small to be too much work. Also the 10mm size is perfect for weaving and (in my case) welding (in situ).
I have a short video on my channel in which I show (in unfortunately rather little detail) how the wood coiling former thingy works.
Power winding really wants a hands-free wire feed device for enhanced safety.
I found a very simple one off the internet.
It's a block of wood, not very large, with a small eyescrew screwed into it well into the wood. The wire feeds to the mandrel through this eyescrew, which holds the wire down a little below where the wire must go to get around the mandrel, giving a bit of tension. Fix the block to something immovable, with a lot of room on the other side of it from you and the drill, so the freely moving rod has room to work.
To make a neat spring coil, the mandrel is laid on the block just to the right of the eyescrew. Here's the secret: angle the mandrel by swinging the drill over about 5-10 degrees to your right. When you start, the wire coil builds downhill as it were, and doesn't ball up.
With a no-hands feed, your hands stay well away from the high energy parts of the operation.
Reverse the drill for a few turns to slack the coil when you've filled the mandrel. Then it's loose enough to remove.
@@w.reidripley1968 As always, the cat reports it has been skinned multiple ways...
Definitely doing this
Thanks for sharing the process! Great idea to do while watching TV!
Kelga Creations it takes so long to make a big piece, you will need some kind of other entertainment to keep your mind busy
haha!! "the dogs heard me say "butt""
What size metal rod do you use to wind the wire around?
I think it was about 8 mm diameter