The cap is known to crack, Mercury does not make them no more, so I bought a lathe (a cheap one) and made mine out of Al. works like a charm, drill a hole in the side and taped a 1/8 NPT and used a Al. nipple. Took measurements for the plastic one.
Hi, I have an inline 6 merc 115 it starts by barely turning the key, it’s idles flawlessly. In gear, in the water, when I hit the throttle it jumps out of the hole and then falls flat on its face, but doesn’t die out. Do you have any idea what the problem might be ? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hi love The videos I have a question I have a mercury 1500 that I shorted the plat the switch box I tested box but it really weak spark you think its switch box
Just got mine running on all six last time out and it broke a ring or burnt a piston. It was sounding so good on the last run to. It had been sitting 21 years. Totally sucks.
I have this same motor on my 1977 glastron cvx16,is it normal for the read valves to go bad on these motors?all I see is the hardly ever go bad,almost never do they fail.I had same issue with the pump cap.i tried different things pic cap,obviously weld.i finally found a metal one off a guy on one of the mercury forums for 25 bucks
Hi mercson this is CJ again thanks for replying and for the video I seen it and I have same problem on this video I have spark and carburetor clean but want start what I have to do? Thanks
Engine only needs 3 things to run: compression, fuel, and spark. I would check the brass venturis on your engine after you prime the bulbs. If you can't see fuel then that's the issue. Son
MercSon, when I crank the motor, it will run until I let loose of the key and when it a springs back to the on position it dies like instantly? Model 1150 115 hp 1966-1968 thunderbolt ignition, no points, please help!
Poor retiree here. Got a 1978 900 on a trade. Compression is 1 = 90 2 = 138 3 = 135 4 = 146 5 = 135 and 6 = 138. Did a decarborizing and got 1 = 91 2 = 135 3 = 130 4 = 140 5 = 130 6= 130 I have no way to rebuild this motor. Tools I have, but no way to remove the motor from the boat or to work on the motor. I travel full time and only have my travel trailer my truck and whatever RV site I am on. What is the worst that can happen if I run this motor. Some other wonders, someone put 150 hp WMK 22 carbs on it. I found NOS WMK 23s to replace those. Have the new CDI wiring as the old was bare in many places. Wonder it did not burn up. TDC is TDC. Get spark OK. Tester shows good spark jumping the gap in sunlight set at 20. Found a NOS switch box if I needed to buy that, but with good spark I see no need.
Cylinder 1 is extremely low. You will have idling issues. But if you can get a hole shot you might have a chance at success. Personally, I would rebuild or replace the engine my friend. Son
@@MerCSonL6 I certainly agree about replacing. Just cannot afford that at this time. I build my own lithium batteries so I can go all day long along the shoreline and the canals. Even easy to get out a few miles. If I can get my borescope to work on the dadgum phone, I will take a look at that cylinder. Or I have to dig through stuff and find my old phone which works with the borescope. Ain't technology wonderful.
@@MerCSonL6 I got a look inside that cylinder and it is scored pretty badly. I also have a chance to get a powerhead with 131 to 139 psi on all cylinders. Here is the catch. It is a 1973 115 powerhead, and mine is a 1978 90 powerhead. Would it bolt in? I can use what I have from the 90 and get what I need one way or another, such as carbs, if needed. Will it fit the bolt pattern and splines for the drive shaft? Flywheel and stator? Distributor and switch box? Thanks in advance
I had similar issue with my 1150. rebuilt carbs and it was still not working. Tried starting while gently squeezing primer bulb and it fired up. Ended up finding a hole in the diaphragm of the fuel pump. Now just waiting for my second CDI Trigger assembly. I put a new one on and it lasted less than a dozen hours (over the last year) because the rotor disc was rubbing against the housing which warped the disk and rubbed off the epoxy that holds the magnet in. I ordered a set of shims to ensure proper spacing this time! I had 2 plugs with little to no spark due to disk contacting the trigger at that point of the rotation because the disk warped. Now no spark because the magnet keeps pulling itself out of the trigger and contacting the disk continuously. Ridiculous that they don't sell just the piece that holds the magnet since it comes off with those 2 little screws, and that housing isn't cheap! That's my diagnosis anyway. Ever see issues with CDI trigger housing because no shims/improper spacing/ disk contact with housing?
Yes my first one ran for 45min. Them 2 screws back out missed up the disk. 2nd one took them 2 screws out to put red lock tight on, noticed the magnet was NOT on the bottom side. 3rd one come in shorted. 4th Finally got a good working one. $425.00 ech w/tax.
Hey there! I've been collecting the 6cyl mercs for a few years now. Currently I've got a 150, 2-100 and a 1963 800. Was hoping to talk with you one on one, as I want to get all of them running. My 71 100 is running. Parts are my biggest issue.
hey brother is there any way I could email you? I have some questions on my 1982 80 hp. I've replaced just about every part. I've had it running then cleaned carbs now I cant get it to run. I watch all your videos! just need a little help from a pro
Hello MerCSon. My dad and I have a 1959 Lonestar Cruise Liner with a 1965 100 hp Mercury. I’m not familiar with TH-cam and I created an account to be able to send you a message. We are wondering if/how to contact you with a question. We have watched tons of your videos and hope you might be able to help us. Thank you!
OH WOW!!! Thank you for replying MerCSon! I tried to send a reply over the weekend but I’m not sure it posted (like I said, I’m not super familiar with TH-cam). My email is tellenmaes@gmail.com. My dad and I are very excited to communicate with you. Thank you again!
Hey L6 brother, thanks for the reply. Last summer my wife’s aunt gave us this boat that they had since 1977. She had a local guy in Atlanta, Georgia keep it up but the last time he worked on it he gave her the bad news that the power pack was not producing 12 V and you can see cracks on the places where the wires bolt on. In general, I need to replace a lot of wires that are cracked and I’m searching out parts right now. I called the place that you suggested and I didn’t get through. I plan to contact them again but I remember you said that you had some extras in your stash.
I have an 1984 90 T O P. Sat in storage for 33 years. Has less than 200 hrs on it. Awesome hole shot
The cap is known to crack, Mercury does not make them no more, so I bought a lathe (a cheap one) and made mine out of Al. works like a charm, drill a hole in the side and taped a 1/8 NPT and used a Al. nipple. Took measurements for the plastic one.
Nice
sweet
that's one hell of a battery
and starter.. bet it got hot
Hi, I have an inline 6 merc 115 it starts by barely turning the key, it’s idles flawlessly. In gear, in the water, when I hit the throttle it jumps out of the hole and then falls flat on its face, but doesn’t die out. Do you have any idea what the problem might be ?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I had the 9.9 with that decal blue as a kid and would like a 150HP
Hi love
The videos I have a question I have a mercury 1500 that I shorted the plat the switch box I tested box but it really weak spark you think its switch box
Just got mine running on all six last time out and it broke a ring or burnt a piston. It was sounding so good on the last run to. It had been sitting 21 years. Totally sucks.
I know the feeling my friend. It always runs the best b4 it craps out. Son
I have this same motor on my 1977 glastron cvx16,is it normal for the read valves to go bad on these motors?all I see is the hardly ever go bad,almost never do they fail.I had same issue with the pump cap.i tried different things pic cap,obviously weld.i finally found a metal one off a guy on one of the mercury forums for 25 bucks
Hi mercson this is CJ again thanks for replying and for the video I seen it and I have same problem on this video I have spark and carburetor clean but want start what I have to do? Thanks
Engine only needs 3 things to run: compression, fuel, and spark. I would check the brass venturis on your engine after you prime the bulbs. If you can't see fuel then that's the issue. Son
Hi, where can I find parts for this older L6?
MercSon, when I crank the motor, it will run until I let loose of the key and when it a springs back to the on position it dies like instantly? Model 1150 115 hp 1966-1968 thunderbolt ignition, no points, please help!
Try a different ignition switch. That's would I would do. That will isolate the problem.
Poor retiree here. Got a 1978 900 on a trade. Compression is 1 = 90 2 = 138 3 = 135 4 = 146 5 = 135 and 6 = 138. Did a decarborizing and got 1 = 91 2 = 135 3 = 130 4 = 140 5 = 130 6= 130 I have no way to rebuild this motor. Tools I have, but no way to remove the motor from the boat or to work on the motor. I travel full time and only have my travel trailer my truck and whatever RV site I am on. What is the worst that can happen if I run this motor. Some other wonders, someone put 150 hp WMK 22 carbs on it. I found NOS WMK 23s to replace those. Have the new CDI wiring as the old was bare in many places. Wonder it did not burn up. TDC is TDC. Get spark OK. Tester shows good spark jumping the gap in sunlight set at 20. Found a NOS switch box if I needed to buy that, but with good spark I see no need.
Cylinder 1 is extremely low. You will have idling issues. But if you can get a hole shot you might have a chance at success. Personally, I would rebuild or replace the engine my friend. Son
@@MerCSonL6 I certainly agree about replacing. Just cannot afford that at this time. I build my own lithium batteries so I can go all day long along the shoreline and the canals. Even easy to get out a few miles. If I can get my borescope to work on the dadgum phone, I will take a look at that cylinder. Or I have to dig through stuff and find my old phone which works with the borescope. Ain't technology wonderful.
@@geraldkoth654 it's great.... when it works. You can take the transfer ports off. That will tell you more than a borescope. Son
@@MerCSonL6 I got a look inside that cylinder and it is scored pretty badly. I also have a chance to get a powerhead with 131 to 139 psi on all cylinders. Here is the catch. It is a 1973 115 powerhead, and mine is a 1978 90 powerhead. Would it bolt in? I can use what I have from the 90 and get what I need one way or another, such as carbs, if needed. Will it fit the bolt pattern and splines for the drive shaft? Flywheel and stator? Distributor and switch box? Thanks in advance
I have a question about my inline 6 outboard, when I have it idling the prop still spins. Is that normal for this engine?
Nope.
@@MerCSonL6 do you have any idea what it could be?
@@nickkennicker your shift cam is off. Son
@@MerCSonL6how do i get the bottom chowling off oneof these motors
@@willwesley3710 you have to remove the powerhead.
I had similar issue with my 1150. rebuilt carbs and it was still not working. Tried starting while gently squeezing primer bulb and it fired up. Ended up finding a hole in the diaphragm of the fuel pump. Now just waiting for my second CDI Trigger assembly. I put a new one on and it lasted less than a dozen hours (over the last year) because the rotor disc was rubbing against the housing which warped the disk and rubbed off the epoxy that holds the magnet in. I ordered a set of shims to ensure proper spacing this time! I had 2 plugs with little to no spark due to disk contacting the trigger at that point of the rotation because the disk warped. Now no spark because the magnet keeps pulling itself out of the trigger and contacting the disk continuously. Ridiculous that they don't sell just the piece that holds the magnet since it comes off with those 2 little screws, and that housing isn't cheap! That's my diagnosis anyway. Ever see issues with CDI trigger housing because no shims/improper spacing/ disk contact with housing?
Short answer: no. Cdi triggers have served me well. Son
Yes my first one ran for 45min. Them 2 screws back out missed up the disk. 2nd one took them 2 screws out to put red lock tight on, noticed the magnet was NOT on the bottom side. 3rd one come in shorted. 4th Finally got a good working one. $425.00 ech w/tax.
Hey there! I've been collecting the 6cyl mercs for a few years now. Currently I've got a 150, 2-100 and a 1963 800. Was hoping to talk with you one on one, as I want to get all of them running. My 71 100 is running. Parts are my biggest issue.
Sure. Shoot.....
Awesome! As I mentioned, finding good ignition/electrical components is my problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Hey mate.
I’m finding really hard to find parts for my 1985 150 black max. Can you recommend anyone anywhere
Thanks
Marineengine.com
Twin City outboard has parts. Minnesota
Pump?
The pump is crap.... I'm rebuilding it now complete with new check valves and gaskets.
hey brother is there any way I could email you? I have some questions on my 1982 80 hp. I've replaced just about every part. I've had it running then cleaned carbs now I cant get it to run. I watch all your videos! just need a little help from a pro
What's your email? Son
Hello MerCSon. My dad and I have a 1959 Lonestar Cruise Liner with a 1965 100 hp Mercury. I’m not familiar with TH-cam and I created an account to be able to send you a message. We are wondering if/how to contact you with a question. We have watched tons of your videos and hope you might be able to help us. Thank you!
Email?
OH WOW!!! Thank you for replying MerCSon! I tried to send a reply over the weekend but I’m not sure it posted (like I said, I’m not super familiar with TH-cam). My email is tellenmaes@gmail.com. My dad and I are very excited to communicate with you. Thank you again!
How hard is it to find parts for that motor?
Not terribly difficult.
Bummer.. you could hear it will run and wants to run .. fuel issue for sure.
Need side mount 7pin from motor to helm
Side mounts were only available on the L3s as far as I know. You need the "female" internal harness? I have male harnesses. Son
@@MerCSonL6external female plug outside cowling to helm
@@MerCSonL6 just like the l6 1500 1977 you working on I need to make a kew switch like you’re doing
@@maryfithen5006 that's the male harness
This is the same 1976 150hp motor I’m working on. If you want to sell me one of you extra a power packs?
Are you sure your powerpack is bad. I have videos on how to test this. Son
Hey L6 brother, thanks for the reply. Last summer my wife’s aunt gave us this boat that they had since 1977. She had a local guy in Atlanta, Georgia keep it up but the last time he worked on it he gave her the bad news that the power pack was not producing 12 V and you can see cracks on the places where the wires bolt on. In general, I need to replace a lot of wires that are cracked and I’m searching out parts right now. I called the place that you suggested and I didn’t get through. I plan to contact them again but I remember you said that you had some extras in your stash.
@@martyhasz8776 th-cam.com/video/ZNho8LajDDU/w-d-xo.html
@@martyhasz8776 test it first my friend.
@@MerCSonL6 Will do. I’ll let you know what I find. Appreciate it.
Wow low hours