Thanks for the video, my sister called and said her alternator on her 2000 honda CRV had gone out. After watching this and some others, I had a good ideal of what tools to take with me to change it out. 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 19mm, 1/2" sockets + adapters to fit 3/8" drive; 3/8" ratchet: 3/8" extensions different lengths about 16" total; 12mm, 14mm, 19mm ratchet wrenches or combo wrenches. 1/2" Harbor freight electric impact with 19mm 1/2" drive socket for lug nuts,jack and jack stand to remove driver side front tire. I have big arms and hands. You will need one 5/16" bolt 2 " long with 2 5/16" flat washers with one 1/2" flat washer and a 5/16" nut to make a tool to pull the spacer bushing back toward the driver side wheel to get the new alternator in. One bottle of Honda approved power steering fluid. One catch pan. It is a one hour drive to her house. First I disconected the negative cable at the battery. The censor took a 19mm box end to remove after I remover the wire connector from it. Then I removed the the 10mm nut that held the alternator cable from the top of the alternator. Then I remove the wire connector at the back of the alternator. I then removed the top belt adjusting bolt from the top alternator bracket with a 12mm ratchet wrench, I did not remove the top bracket bracket. Then I jacked up the driver side front tire , removed the tire, front driver side, put a jack stand on that side for safety, removed 3 dirt shield plugs from the front side wheel well, pulled the dirt shield down out of the way to where I could get to the bottom alternator bolt nut. Used 16" of 3/8" extentions with 14mm socket to fit nut. Removed nut, used small screw driver to push bottom bolt out of hole, put catch pan under car below power steering pump. Then moved back to the top side. Removed the two nuts and lock washers that hold on the brake boster on. Took off the top bracket that holds the power steering hose, one bolt 12mm or 14mm socket. Unhooked the 2 wiring harness clips, removed the wiring harness clip on the driver side wheel well beside the brake boster, 10mm socket. Then removed the two 10mm head bolts that hold the top power steering hose to the power steering pump. Moved the power steering hose back to the fire wall under the hood, keep the end of the hose pointing up. Power steering fluid will leak out of the pump, that is what the catch pan is for and the need for a bottle of power steering fluid. I then used a pry bar to get the alternator loose, with the power steering hose out of the way and the brake booster moved to the side the alternator had plenty of room to come out. The old alternator had a harness clip on its bottom that I had to remove before I could get the alternator all the way out. Before going back with the new alternator I used the 5/16"by 2" long bolt, put a 5/16" flat washer on first, then the 1/2" flat washer, then put bolt through the inside of the clamping bushing on the lower alternator mounting bracket mounted to the motor with the threads pointing toward the driver side brake rotor, then put a 3/8" drive 19mm socket over the bolt threaded end with the 19mm side going against the bracket, then the other 5/16" flat washer and nut on the bolt. Used the 1/2" socket to tighten the 1/2" nut up on the bolt, which drew the bushing flush with the inside of the bottom bracket that holds the alternator on where the new alternator will have plenty of roon to fit it. I did this from the wheel well. I did not take the time to remove the bottom bracket by doing it this way. I then removed the 5/16" bolt assembly, installed the square headed bolt into the bracket just enough to hold the square headed bolt in the first part of the hole while I put the alternator back in. While I helt the alternator in place from the bottom , my sister pushed the square headed bolt back through the bottom bracket and alternator from the top. Then I put everything back together. One note not all new alternators come with the right pulley, most local parts houses can change them out if you already have the old alternator out and take it with you. With big hands and arms it is hard for me to get to everything from the top. Thanks to all the people that put how too videos on youtube.
This sounds harder than it really is. Everything is pretty easy to get to. I didn't need to remove the wiring harnesses or the bottom alternator bracket. Tip: you don't need to fully remove the top alternator bracket either, just take out the first bolt and loosen the second one and it rotates out of the way. Also be careful with the sensor, you don't want to break it.
Don't take the bottom bracket off. There is a pin, bolted on. Take bolt off, hammer the pin out. I spent about an hour messing with that bottom bracket before realizing this. That said, great vid otherwise. Helped me get the sucker out of there. Thanks!
Wow. About to do this job and decided to look up some tips. Had no idea it would be such a pain. Considering going through the bottom instead. Man this makes me love Subaru more.
@@AxelSpott 🙄 Just saying Subarus are easier to work on than any transverse Honda, Toyota, etc. I have worked on. Only the NA EJ25 had head gasket issues and it's do it once correctly and good for life. Meanwhile the B20 needs valve adjustments every few 10k miles or it eats heads. All brands have issues.
Did you ever figure out how to get it out? I haven’t taken the bottom bracket out because many other videos said you don’t have to, but I can’t get the new alternator into the bracket because of the sleeve
Thanks for the video, my sister called and said her alternator on her 2000 honda CRV had gone out. After watching this and some others, I had a good ideal of what tools to take with me to change it out. 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 19mm, 1/2" sockets + adapters to fit 3/8" drive; 3/8" ratchet: 3/8" extensions different lengths about 16" total; 12mm, 14mm, 19mm ratchet wrenches or combo wrenches. 1/2" Harbor freight electric impact with 19mm 1/2" drive socket for lug nuts,jack and jack stand to remove driver side front tire. I have big arms and hands. You will need one 5/16" bolt 2 " long with 2 5/16" flat washers with one 1/2" flat washer and a 5/16" nut to make a tool to pull the spacer bushing back toward the driver side wheel to get the new alternator in. One bottle of Honda approved power steering fluid. One catch pan. It is a one hour drive to her house.
First I disconected the negative cable at the battery. The censor took a 19mm box end to remove after I remover the wire connector from it. Then I removed the the 10mm nut that held the alternator cable from the top of the alternator. Then I remove the wire connector at the back of the alternator. I then removed the top belt adjusting bolt from the top alternator bracket with a 12mm ratchet wrench, I did not remove the top bracket bracket. Then I jacked up the driver side front tire , removed the tire, front driver side, put a jack stand on that side for safety, removed 3 dirt shield plugs from the front side wheel well, pulled the dirt shield down out of the way to where I could get to the bottom alternator bolt nut. Used 16" of 3/8" extentions with 14mm socket to fit nut. Removed nut, used small screw driver to push bottom bolt out of hole, put catch pan under car below power steering pump. Then moved back to the top side. Removed the two nuts and lock washers that hold on the brake boster on. Took off the top bracket that holds the power steering hose, one bolt 12mm or 14mm socket. Unhooked the 2 wiring harness clips, removed the wiring harness clip on the driver side wheel well beside the brake boster, 10mm socket. Then removed the two 10mm head bolts that hold the top power steering hose to the power steering pump. Moved the power steering hose back to the fire wall under the hood, keep the end of the hose pointing up. Power steering fluid will leak out of the pump, that is what the catch pan is for and the need for a bottle of power steering fluid. I then used a pry bar to get the alternator loose, with the power steering hose out of the way and the brake booster moved to the side the alternator had plenty of room to come out. The old alternator had a harness clip on its bottom that I had to remove before I could get the alternator all the way out.
Before going back with the new alternator I used the 5/16"by 2" long bolt, put a 5/16" flat washer on first, then the 1/2" flat washer, then put bolt through the inside of the clamping bushing on the lower alternator mounting bracket mounted to the motor with the threads pointing toward the driver side brake rotor, then put a 3/8" drive 19mm socket over the bolt threaded end with the 19mm side going against the bracket, then the other 5/16" flat washer and nut on the bolt. Used the 1/2" socket to tighten the 1/2" nut up on the bolt, which drew the bushing flush with the inside of the bottom bracket that holds the alternator on where the new alternator will have plenty of roon to fit it. I did this from the wheel well. I did not take the time to remove the bottom bracket by doing it this way. I then removed the 5/16" bolt assembly, installed the square headed bolt into the bracket just enough to hold the square headed bolt in the first part of the hole while I put the alternator back in. While I helt the alternator in place from the bottom , my sister pushed the square headed bolt back through the bottom bracket and alternator from the top. Then I put everything back together. One note not all new alternators come with the right pulley, most local parts houses can change them out if you already have the old alternator out and take it with you. With big hands and arms it is hard for me to get to everything from the top. Thanks to all the people that put how too videos on youtube.
This sounds harder than it really is. Everything is pretty easy to get to. I didn't need to remove the wiring harnesses or the bottom alternator bracket.
Tip: you don't need to fully remove the top alternator bracket either, just take out the first bolt and loosen the second one and it rotates out of the way. Also be careful with the sensor, you don't want to break it.
Don't take the bottom bracket off. There is a pin, bolted on. Take bolt off, hammer the pin out.
I spent about an hour messing with that bottom bracket before realizing this. That said, great vid otherwise. Helped me get the sucker out of there. Thanks!
Yeah somethimes you can get a small prybar or just wiggle it off the bottom bracket
Wow. About to do this job and decided to look up some tips. Had no idea it would be such a pain. Considering going through the bottom instead. Man this makes me love Subaru more.
Yeah at least on Subaru you only have to do the entire head gasket instead. Good ole Subaru engineering
@@AxelSpott 🙄 Just saying Subarus are easier to work on than any transverse Honda, Toyota, etc. I have worked on. Only the NA EJ25 had head gasket issues and it's do it once correctly and good for life. Meanwhile the B20 needs valve adjustments every few 10k miles or it eats heads. All brands have issues.
On a Honda CRV 2000 alternator connector is it oval or square?
All you have to do is remove one bracket and that sensor and call it a day
How do you get the sleeve out of the bracket?
Did you ever figure out how to get it out? I haven’t taken the bottom bracket out because many other videos said you don’t have to, but I can’t get the new alternator into the bracket because of the sleeve
Helpful thank you
You do not need to move your master cylinder do not listen to that part of this video
You don't have enough light in the area. Pretty good video, otherwise