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God bless this man

Pasenger seat pls same problem gen2

Thanks for the great video. It is easier if you remove the drivers seat. If you disconnect the rod to the inside door handle at the latch you can loosen the latch assembly. This will gain access to the spring replacement. I was able to find the exact spring at a well stocked hardware store.

You described it well I just got mine open and I just been getting in the passenger for months To get the door open once you got the panel out From inside the car, grab the bar that works the OUTER door handle and look thru the hole while you work the bar up and down...you'll see a VERY SMALL tab(best I can describe it) moving. When the door doesn't open it's because this tab doesn't go UP far enough. I put a baby pry bar right on it, made sure the door was unlocked, pushed UP on the pry bar while lifting up on that same outer door bar from earlier and boom door swung open Thanks for the walk thru on panel removal Guess it's a good time to upgrade door speakers eh?

Just got the front passenger door open on my 2004 CR-V. The release button was a green tab. I could see it through the hole that the plunger lock wire goes through. It was between the exterior door panel and the window runway. This video was super helpful. Thank you.

All you have to do is remove one bracket and that sensor and call it a day

You do not need to move your master cylinder do not listen to that part of this video

I love this method. I found out that A Diamond grit file will do a better job..

Thanks so much

Hi,your email I’d pls

Thank you! Very detailed video. Once you mention the spring was the main cause of the malfunction I found the spring in the door frame. I just might end up returning my used part. Mechanics all they want to do is replace the entire part and charge an arm and a leg. What is just really the spring. Amazing.

You don't have enough light in the area. Pretty good video, otherwise

fellow Minnesotan! I'm in the driveway, in the dark trying to get this pain in the ass out right now. thanks for the video!

On a Honda CRV 2000 alternator connector is it oval or square?

Turn your background music off.

This does not work on my 2000 Honda CRV, you cannot see any serial number at all.

This sounds harder than it really is. Everything is pretty easy to get to. I didn't need to remove the wiring harnesses or the bottom alternator bracket. Tip: you don't need to fully remove the top alternator bracket either, just take out the first bolt and loosen the second one and it rotates out of the way. Also be careful with the sensor, you don't want to break it.

Is this same instructions for 2005 CR-V?

Don't take the bottom bracket off. There is a pin, bolted on. Take bolt off, hammer the pin out. I spent about an hour messing with that bottom bracket before realizing this. That said, great vid otherwise. Helped me get the sucker out of there. Thanks!

Helpful thank you

My old alternator won't come out of the bottom bracket? What do I do ? I tried prying but can't get a good position. I bent the one pry bar that might have been long enough. HELP! gr_elvis@yahoo.com thank you

I used a long screw driver and didn’t have problems unscrewing the one in the back. For the top left I had to open the coffee cup holder and get my screw driver under it and throughout the hole in ashtray frame. I couldn’t do that in the top right. The only tool that a have on hand was a screw driver’s phillips bit, so I used that to un screw that last one. Since it wasn’t that tight, i didn’t have to fight it to get it out.

Great video. Pretty straight forward. Thanks a lot. I didn’t have the mirror so I just used my cellphone to take a picture (as, probably, many of you had already founded out).

Thank you so much for this. It was a bit of a pain to get those 2 upper ashtray screws out but beats trying to pull the whole stereo. I used a boy scout mirror and it took a minute to angle it correctly to fetch the serial. This video saved me a lot hassle and the website you linked fetched the code without any problems at all.

How do you get the sleeve out of the bracket?

Thank you for demonstrating that the CR-V actuator is designed different than the civics of the same generation, and the step by step on how to remove everything. You’ve helped me fix my door.

Also, thanks for the video. Your advice was spot-on.

Thanks for the video, my sister called and said her alternator on her 2000 honda CRV had gone out. After watching this and some others, I had a good ideal of what tools to take with me to change it out. 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 19mm, 1/2" sockets + adapters to fit 3/8" drive; 3/8" ratchet: 3/8" extensions different lengths about 16" total; 12mm, 14mm, 19mm ratchet wrenches or combo wrenches. 1/2" Harbor freight electric impact with 19mm 1/2" drive socket for lug nuts,jack and jack stand to remove driver side front tire. I have big arms and hands. You will need one 5/16" bolt 2 " long with 2 5/16" flat washers with one 1/2" flat washer and a 5/16" nut to make a tool to pull the spacer bushing back toward the driver side wheel to get the new alternator in. One bottle of Honda approved power steering fluid. One catch pan. It is a one hour drive to her house. First I disconected the negative cable at the battery. The censor took a 19mm box end to remove after I remover the wire connector from it. Then I removed the the 10mm nut that held the alternator cable from the top of the alternator. Then I remove the wire connector at the back of the alternator. I then removed the top belt adjusting bolt from the top alternator bracket with a 12mm ratchet wrench, I did not remove the top bracket bracket. Then I jacked up the driver side front tire , removed the tire, front driver side, put a jack stand on that side for safety, removed 3 dirt shield plugs from the front side wheel well, pulled the dirt shield down out of the way to where I could get to the bottom alternator bolt nut. Used 16" of 3/8" extentions with 14mm socket to fit nut. Removed nut, used small screw driver to push bottom bolt out of hole, put catch pan under car below power steering pump. Then moved back to the top side. Removed the two nuts and lock washers that hold on the brake boster on. Took off the top bracket that holds the power steering hose, one bolt 12mm or 14mm socket. Unhooked the 2 wiring harness clips, removed the wiring harness clip on the driver side wheel well beside the brake boster, 10mm socket. Then removed the two 10mm head bolts that hold the top power steering hose to the power steering pump. Moved the power steering hose back to the fire wall under the hood, keep the end of the hose pointing up. Power steering fluid will leak out of the pump, that is what the catch pan is for and the need for a bottle of power steering fluid. I then used a pry bar to get the alternator loose, with the power steering hose out of the way and the brake booster moved to the side the alternator had plenty of room to come out. The old alternator had a harness clip on its bottom that I had to remove before I could get the alternator all the way out. Before going back with the new alternator I used the 5/16"by 2" long bolt, put a 5/16" flat washer on first, then the 1/2" flat washer, then put bolt through the inside of the clamping bushing on the lower alternator mounting bracket mounted to the motor with the threads pointing toward the driver side brake rotor, then put a 3/8" drive 19mm socket over the bolt threaded end with the 19mm side going against the bracket, then the other 5/16" flat washer and nut on the bolt. Used the 1/2" socket to tighten the 1/2" nut up on the bolt, which drew the bushing flush with the inside of the bottom bracket that holds the alternator on where the new alternator will have plenty of roon to fit it. I did this from the wheel well. I did not take the time to remove the bottom bracket by doing it this way. I then removed the 5/16" bolt assembly, installed the square headed bolt into the bracket just enough to hold the square headed bolt in the first part of the hole while I put the alternator back in. While I helt the alternator in place from the bottom , my sister pushed the square headed bolt back through the bottom bracket and alternator from the top. Then I put everything back together. One note not all new alternators come with the right pulley, most local parts houses can change them out if you already have the old alternator out and take it with you. With big hands and arms it is hard for me to get to everything from the top. Thanks to all the people that put how too videos on youtube.

To find the release, pull on the exterior door handle while you look inside the door. You'll see a little white horizontal tab on the latch assembly move slightly. Push down on it with a screwdriver and the door will pop open. Only took me about two hours to figure that one out...

Omg! I had the same thing happen to me. It was a NIGHTMARE to get the door panel out of the vehicle while the door was closed, and I also wretched some components. What a mess over such a small spring. I was furious. When you moved that little actuator on the side of the assembly I had an "AH HAH" moment, and knew to try to manipulate anything that moved. That got the door open for me. Thank you SO much for the video! It was a real life saver. I worked three days of construction out of my vehicle entering, and exiting through the passangers door.. NIGHTMARE to say the least. Thank you again! 👍 👍

can you please send me the HPM particle sensor library?

Thank you so much for this video! Saved my day! For some unlucky soul struggeling with this spring in the future: I managed to unlock the door by lowering the window and "fishing" down between the window and door panel. I used a Steel rod and wedged the rubber open so i could look down while "fishing". It was a real pain. Study the video to estimate where the spring lever is. You wont be able to see directly but it is doable. Its towards the window/outer door panel right near the rod from the top push/pull button. Have no idea what that lever does, but with a new hardware store spring the door worked perfectly. I installed the spring without removing the mechanism from the door. I only removed the steel window guide. Fiddly, but much simpler then removing the whole thing.

John, nice video. Which MPR micropressure sensor and which humidicon himidity sensor do you use?

Is there any way to connect this device to bluetooth?

Wow! This is one of the best "how to fix your broken car part" video that I have ever seen. Well done. Since you didn't make any other comments, I'm assuming that this actually fixed the problem.

pls send the arduino code to this killheatspace@gmail.com

I totally agree with everyone, is there a chance to have a copy of the arduino python script.

This software is Windows-only and not extensible. Much more useful would be the source code for the Arduino program and an API that we could use from e.g. Python.

Wow. About to do this job and decided to look up some tips. Had no idea it would be such a pain. Considering going through the bottom instead. Man this makes me love Subaru more.

Hi John, is there a chance to get the .ino sketch to connect a rsc sensor to an Ardunio and getting the compensated pressure readings without the evaluation kit?

Your way worked perfectly

Finally disassembled my drivers side door and the spring is missing. So now at least I know that's the problem! Do you know the exact size of the spring? I could disassemble the passenger door to measure the one over there but I'd really prefer not to!

Hello, I have the similar observations than the others : - sensor seems accurate - none of the commands in the datasheet seems to work, only response is 0x9696, is there anything to do to allow serial commands ? - PM10 value is PM2.5 + 2, is there something to do to activate a real PM10 measurement ?

The magic release button was so damn hard to find. I actually found it by actually found it by accident, had no clue how I opened the door until I the problem happen again and I actually found the button

Wow worked perfectly!!

hacksaw trick was best thing here. my issue was also the spring, but did not see that since it is behind the window channel. used a thin awl to move a bar up, then the lock fully unlocked. ditto with Will D on the spring fix. Many Thx to John L

Hi John, The kind folks at the CREATE Lab at CMU were nice enough to provide a few of your HPM PM2.5 sensor that I wanted to evaluate. A few things I'd like feedback on: 1) The sensor powers up in the auto-send mode which is a word oriented protocol. Sending stop commands or any other byte oriented message results in a NACK response. How would one use the master/slave protocol first defined in the specifications? 2) For a few days the PM2.5 results were tracking very well with a few Dylos units however yesterday we must have had unusually fine particulate that the HPM sensor was not 'seeing'. So, if the Dylos can 'see' down to .5 microns, what is the smallest particle size that the HPM sensors can see? General observations: a) PM10 value is always +1 ug/M of the PM2.5 value. Why or why bother? b) Specification defines PM2.5 in ug/M (fine) but the footnote implies that 2.5 micron is the same thing. But in fact the sensor is counting particles that are 2.5 microns (and smaller?) and then deriving an approximation of PM2.5 in ug/M using a standardized dust type. The spec. sheet should really be clearer about this. Is there any chance the sensors I have are just 'half baked'?

I connect this sensor to Arduino, but got some strange result(PM2,5: ~45 i clean room). Can you share your code for Honeywell HPM Particle Sensor?

very helpful, having a similar problem with the back door.

Hi John, thanks for the review and I will test some of these in local air quality project. Three questions: - where to find this ginnoair (or similar) controller with LCD/battery that you are using in a video ( I google a bit without any result)? Looks like commercial product, but may it is some prototype. Can you program/reprogram it or it is made specifically for Honeywell particle sensor? - what is the airflow and is it constant or variable, is it measured or it is a simple fan -any intensons to develop an outdoor unit (with cycolne, dehumidifiying, etc.) plus integrated temp/humidity/gas sensors