We just did one hot/cold vent door actuator today , I really, really wished, would have found this video earlier , it is so thoroughly explained, I want to thank you for putting in great effort to create this video
@@shabeermahar5898 that’s why I’m here. The blend door (hot/cold) motor is actually relatively easy, especially once I learned to unbolt the drivers seat front and tip it back. But the mode motor in the center of the dash is a bitch!
Bro love this channel. Keep them coming. got a 3500 and it's been a Love hate kinda thing. Videos like this makes me love my 3500 pro master a little bit more. I have an overcharging thing going on. the van yoyos between 14 and 16 volts had a buddy put his tool on it. where should I be looking to fix this problem. Anyone else ever have this problem before. Ps thanks for the laugh's sometimes that's all you can do.
Best I know, the ONLY thing that causes overcharging is a weak ground, and the van has an occassionally flakey engine ground on the side of the transmission. I have a video on it - it's simple. Check that first.
It's been a busy few weeks for me and the van. Leaving the temp one above max cold to see if it solves the clicking . I do have a spare on hand just incase😊
My Ram truck has this issue when its super cold out the heat wont change. I replaced it with a rockauto one and its the same as the original issue. Good to know, I will try a non-rock auto motor.
@@promastersonly1419 I did that, which made tons of room. I removed the panel covering the fuses and then the panel that The fuse panel screws into. I removed the cup holder the trim panel behind that and the big white y shaped piece. But that still left a panel under the steering column that has two Allen bolts attaching it to the frame. One on the left over by the fuses and one on the right of the steering column above a USB plug. But I can't get that panel to move to be able to get behind it to get to the actuator. It feels like that panel is connected all the way across through my gear shift panel and even feels like it runs behind the glove box.
@@chrisdelleart933 aha. So there is a small cover that shields the heater core lines, and there is the floor vent output that also comes out. I believe its held in by 1 phillips, and the nozzle part of it just snaps out of the main duct. The piece you are looking to remove is about the size of your fist - its the vent tip basically.
Most times it just needs to be tapped on because it get jammed on itself. That a great tip on the seat though because you do have to be a contortionist to work on it. Thanks for sharing!
Another really good video. This problem has hit me three times now, but I've been able to reach up and slightly un-jam the white control arm and it all starts working again. Eventually I guess I'll replace the actuator, but I suspect that arm / lever combination is just getting jammed up. Also, I think Alpha OBD has a setting to realign the various actuators, but it's been a while since I last used it so just guessing here..@@promastersonly1419
I just replaced mine a month ago and had the same clicking. I disconnected the negative and let it sit overnight and it worked the next day. So frustrating as I’ve done two of these on Hondas and it just works. The arm is part of the assembly so nothing to relearn.
If the actuator wasin the full hot position and you turned the ignition on and off, could that have given the computer the proper data for the motors home position?
That's actually how it's supposed to work. When the van has been sitting, as soon as you open the driver's door the system sweeps all 3 actuators and establishes their positions. The problem is that when the actuator motor is bad or the gear is stripped, it tries but fails to learn.
Generally no because on the blend door, those two stops limit what the arm can actually do. In theory, the computer is supposed to learn where those stops are, so it shouldnt matter how you clock the arm.
So we had the battery replaced in our 2014 Diesel 3500 and the mode switch started clicking and not working. Do you think a battery disconnect could reset it?
Yes, but you’d have either build something complicated, or be willing to drill a hole in the dash. You saw my solution; wire it hot in winter, cold in summer! Maximum laziness!
Sometimes when it was extremely cold out my heat would quit working chap my ass f****** windows with all fog up freeze my ass off then next day warmed up again. It worked. Never did figure it out
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I think I'm running into similar issue. AC is fine but there's no heat. Thanks for sharing!
We just did one hot/cold vent door actuator today , I really, really wished, would have found this video earlier , it is so thoroughly explained, I want to thank you for putting in great effort to create this video
@@shabeermahar5898 that’s why I’m here. The blend door (hot/cold) motor is actually relatively easy, especially once I learned to unbolt the drivers seat front and tip it back. But the mode motor in the center of the dash is a bitch!
Holy FORK!
This is a useful video for me.
Thanks again.
Thanks as always Kip
Bro love this channel. Keep them coming. got a 3500 and it's been a Love hate kinda thing. Videos like this makes me love my 3500 pro master a little bit more. I have an overcharging thing going on. the van yoyos between 14 and 16 volts had a buddy put his tool on it. where should I be looking to fix this problem. Anyone else ever have this problem before. Ps thanks for the laugh's sometimes that's all you can do.
Best I know, the ONLY thing that causes overcharging is a weak ground, and the van has an occassionally flakey engine ground on the side of the transmission. I have a video on it - it's simple. Check that first.
Kiss his ass he loves it..LOLZ
I wondered what that motor sound was a minute or so after I shut everything down. Thanks.
A "Baker's Scaffold" is that rolly thing that painters use...LOLZ
Sounds like a fun sex act. I wanted a Cleveland Steamer, but I got a Baker’s Scaffold instead.
Thanks for filling me with fear! I think my mode doohickey is forked up… at least I now know that I’ll have to medicate heavily to cope…
Agreed!
It's been a busy few weeks for me and the van. Leaving the temp one above max cold to see if it solves the clicking . I do have a spare on hand just incase😊
@@toz1214 there will come a day when you just give up, remove the actuator, and attach a cable. I’m working on a kit.
My Ram truck has this issue when its super cold out the heat wont change. I replaced it with a rockauto one and its the same as the original issue. Good to know, I will try a non-rock auto motor.
It seems to make a difference.
Great information. Do you have a video on removing the lower center and driver's side dash panels? I have a 2019 RAM ProMaster 2500 cargo van.
No, but that’s a good video idea.
Love the video! But how do I get all the stuff out of the way to actually work on it. I couldn't get my trim panels off of my 2016 to even start.
@@chrisdelleart933 pop the driver seat bolts and tip it back, then my fat ass can lay on the floor between the seats and work on it.
@@promastersonly1419 I did that, which made tons of room. I removed the panel covering the fuses and then the panel that The fuse panel screws into. I removed the cup holder the trim panel behind that and the big white y shaped piece. But that still left a panel under the steering column that has two Allen bolts attaching it to the frame. One on the left over by the fuses and one on the right of the steering column above a USB plug. But I can't get that panel to move to be able to get behind it to get to the actuator. It feels like that panel is connected all the way across through my gear shift panel and even feels like it runs behind the glove box.
@@chrisdelleart933 aha. So there is a small cover that shields the heater core lines, and there is the floor vent output that also comes out. I believe its held in by 1 phillips, and the nozzle part of it just snaps out of the main duct. The piece you are looking to remove is about the size of your fist - its the vent tip basically.
Most times it just needs to be tapped on because it get jammed on itself. That a great tip on the seat though because you do have to be a contortionist to work on it. Thanks for sharing!
Sometimes they just start working correctly on their own, but I have heard reports of smacking them working occasionally.
They always seem to have issues when folks turn up the heat for the 1st time when it gets cold. What an easy way to find loose change and popcorn.
@@CorndogCaravan Ha! For me it’s always sticky cough drops.
Another really good video. This problem has hit me three times now, but I've been able to reach up and slightly un-jam the white control arm and it all starts working again. Eventually I guess I'll replace the actuator, but I suspect that arm / lever combination is just getting jammed up. Also, I think Alpha OBD has a setting to realign the various actuators, but it's been a while since I last used it so just guessing here..@@promastersonly1419
I just replaced mine a month ago and had the same clicking. I disconnected the negative and let it sit overnight and it worked the next day. So frustrating as I’ve done two of these on Hondas and it just works. The arm is part of the assembly so nothing to relearn.
Common that that fixes it after replacement.
If the actuator wasin the full hot position and you turned the ignition on and off, could that have given the computer the proper data for the motors home position?
That's actually how it's supposed to work. When the van has been sitting, as soon as you open the driver's door the system sweeps all 3 actuators and establishes their positions. The problem is that when the actuator motor is bad or the gear is stripped, it tries but fails to learn.
Could the clicking at one end of the range of the actuator mean that the arm is off by one or more teeth where it connects to the actuator?
Generally no because on the blend door, those two stops limit what the arm can actually do. In theory, the computer is supposed to learn where those stops are, so it shouldnt matter how you clock the arm.
So we had the battery replaced in our 2014 Diesel 3500 and the mode switch started clicking and not working. Do you think a battery disconnect could reset it?
Worth a shot.
Heat stuck on. I think this is the fix
Almost certainly the actuator is the problem.
Couldn't you just use a push-pull choke cable thing and be done with it?
Yes, but you’d have either build something complicated, or be willing to drill a hole in the dash.
You saw my solution; wire it hot in winter, cold in summer! Maximum laziness!
I like this idea best...No fail like the old days.
Sometimes when it was extremely cold out my heat would quit working chap my ass f****** windows with all fog up freeze my ass off then next day warmed up again. It worked. Never did figure it out
I bet the solution was to cycle the knob between cold and hot a few times. This is generally what they do as the actuator is going bad.