You are the best. A/c stopped working in the middle of the summer. Had a estimate to fix it $700.00. Luckily found your TH-cam. Bought a capacitor for 8 bucks and now I’m chillin again. Thanks.
You just saved me about $500. The ohms were good but the motor is 17 years old and I'm told it has seized up. Capacitor was just replaced. Amazon and TH-cam to the rescue!
How did you deduce that the fan motor had seized up? Does it not spin freely by hand? I'm curious because I think I'm in the same situation you are. After 18 years, my condenser fan stopped working. All these guides say to check the ohms, and if the readings are correct, then the fan is fine. My ohms were perfect. the fan spins freely. I took the fan motor apart to check for damage/corrosion, and it looks almost new. However, it will not come on. The compressor comes on, then shuts down due to the fan not spinning. I have all correct voltage at all connections. New capacitor. So, it has to be a bad motor, right??? lol! I appreciate these videos, and I know the content creators try to keep their tutorials as basic as possible - but I haven't heard "If the fan's ohm readings are correct, then the fan is most likely good. However, it is possible that other issues with the motor could prevent it from working." I'm just going to order a new motor, and return it if it doesn't work. I'd really like to hear how your repair goes! Good luck!
@@KittyNoNo our AC guy mentioned that the fan motor may become noisy i.e like a bad bearing. I didn't notice anything specifically, since we have 2 units outside and can't really hear them inside. I figured there aren't many other things that could be bad, and the capacitor was replaced the day before. I didn't take the motor apart to look for corrosion, but it seemed like a reasonable cause of failure. I didn't want to pay his fee to come back out and check it/replace the motor (which worked when he left the day before), so I found this video.
Mild panic, the new motor came in, and it had 2 additional wires connected in a loop, which changed the black wire to blue. In between looked like a lighting ballast. White ceramic. No where to put it, and definitely would get in the way of the fan. We zip tied it to the grate. Hope it works out! We plugged everything in, confirmed voltage. The compressor started but not the fan. We pushed the blade with a stick a little and it took off. We have cold air! We hope the repairs hold up. Thanks again!
@@robertfulton4829 Thank you very much for taking the time to reply. I see that you've installed the new motor, and that it solved your problem. Good to hear! Hopefully, push -starting the fan was a one-time thing and it will start automatically going forward LOL I''m looking forward to cold air too! Thanks again!
You are too good! Can't thank you enough for putting this info out there. Our fan quit working a while back. Your videos pointed me through the troubleshooting effort: capacitor tested ok and was not physically deformed. Then found quite a few dead ants in the contactor. Cleaned it out and the fan turned on as it should. Fast forward a few weeks and the fan has quit again. Will be testing it as you have shown here. Very much appreciated!
I subbed to your channel last year when I became a homeowner, this video fixed my A/C this morning after it broke down last night and I was still able to go to work. My capacitor wasn't shorting to ground, but it was almost too hot to touch when I removed it. I was able to push start the fan last night and set the temp down to 65 so it would run all night and we got some sleep before the repair.
Really appreciate all your videos. Very consice. My mother's unit was frooze up, so I helped her get it running again. But the tech she had apparently called came over. He simply added more refrigerate and left. Only to wake-up to a frozen unit again. Now the blower motor is not even kicking on. Hopefully it does not need replaced. God Bless & God Speed Brother.👍🏻
No offense, but for a young guy, you really have your stuff together. I really appreciate how you put emphasis on safety precautions. I took my grandson to a trade school open house, and as we walked out of the electrician display of graduates, there was a separate display of one particular individual. I asked what was the reason for his distinction. We were told that on the second week of his first job he had electrocuted himself by not following one of the basic rules that were taught at the class. You never know if your emphasis on safety and what is routine practice for you, could reach the right ears and save a life.
@Blank Man No offense that I first assumed because of his age he wouldn't be as cautious and safe as he is. An assumption that I apologize for having is what I meant.
@Blank Man The young man who electrocuted himself was relatively young and in his 30's, probably like you. Maybe subconsciously that was In the back of my mind. Who knows.
Our A/C unit has making buzzing sound all the sudden I replaced entire A/C system and unit 2years ago. It was about $6000.😢 I am so upset because #1 insist so freaking hot and #2 only 2years?? I am having issues with brand new A/c unit 🤬I called the company 3times they don't even call me back.
Thanks for SAFETY FIRST cautions, so very important in everything we do, especially when we are around electricity !! A big thank you for the detailed video on how to check the fan motor Ohms resistance. At first I changed out the Start Capacitor and motor started, but would not keep running. Then I followed your instructions for checking the motor and decided it should be replaced because of the Ohms resistance measurements and what I felt were bad bearings (way to much end play). New motor in and running great.
Hey Jay I would like to say thank you for your video. The knowledge that I get from you is the bomb. The simple repairs I can do myself just because of you. Keep putting the videos out and may you be blessed
This video very helpful I just following his diagnosis step and tracking by multimeter A/C out box one of fuse was gone so replaced new one and A/C working great. Save lot of money and times. Thanks again an appreciated this video.!!! ;)
Its crazy how much more im learning doing both install and service, I get to learn both sides and I have a better understanding of the whole system. Your vides have helped me out a lot, keep it up!
Thanks! Through your videos I have been able to isolate the fan non operation as the issue. Next up for me is to use what I learned here to check the resistance with my meter to verify that it is the fan motor that is in fact bad before spending perhaps hundreds on a new motor. The only other thing that I am unable to check is the r-22 pressure as I do not have the proper gauges for that.
Thanks for this video. I just had to replace both motors inside and out on my unit. I'm no electrician but I want to tinker with the old motors to learn a thing or two. Before I open the casing and dissect them like a frog, I'm going to take the opportunity to learn how to test them.
Hi, Sir, you are a great mentor. I have some questions: If the fan motor stops running but the compressor is still running, what will happen? In this situation, why is the circuit breaker tripped? and how does the compressor's thermal protection mechanism protect the compressor? Thank you.
Great video. My ac stopped yesterday. Replaced the capacitor today. The fan didn't start, but I nudged it and it started, and cooled for quite some time, then stopped. The motor was very hot to the touch. Is that a good indicator that the motor is bad? I'm hoping I didn't burn up the compressor with it running without the fan. Thank you for your help and all the great info
I have 24V coming in from my thermostat to my contactor. My contactor is showing 10.3ohm resistance. I even had my contactor tested. Everything kicks on when I press in the plunger and my fan and compressor starts. I’m at a loss of what it can be now. Could it be the defrost control board? 4:57
hi thanks a lot for what U`ve done my motor is good but it runs for a seond only and goes off immediately I`ve changed capacitors contactor but no change indoor unit works normal but not cold what could cost that? indoor or outdoor unit ?
Great video, clear and simple, good job, thanks. If the fan motor goes on and off when the compressor is running, is this also a sign of bad fan motor? or there might be other issues? Thanks
Thanks for the video! My compressor turns on but my outside fan doesn't until I give it a push. Is that a symptom of something specific or should I just go ahead and check the ohmage of the fan motor? Thanks again!
I changed out the capacitor after reading online that several others had my exact symptoms. Turns out that was the issue and my AC is fixed! I paid $14 for a new capacitor and $11.63 for shipping compared to $115/hr just to get the problem diagnosed by a professional. Thank you World of Advice TV for the great content, you saved me some serious cheddar!
Yes. If there is no continuity, then the winding is open and the motor needs to be replaced. Although once in a while my meter plays tricks on me.. (perhaps it was weak batteries) I check for continuity and it doesn't beep. But then I check resistance and there is resistance..
Hi Jay. My fan does not turn on by itself, but when the compressor is running and I start the fan spinning with a screwdriver it will keep spinning by the motors power. Is this pretty much a slam-dunk capacitor diagnosis? If not, what could be the issue? There is no abnormal heat nor sound coming from the fan motor when it is running
A motor can fail electrically or mechanically. A meter won't help with a mechanical problem. A seized motor for example, where the bearing is shot. If you spin it by hand and it spins hard instead of freely, then the motor is bad. You can try oiling it, that might free it up. Usually the motor would get replaced though.
Thank,your videos are very precise and informative. I verified that my compressor is working and I've installed a new capacitor. I then checked the three wire"s you've shown on my condenser fan and get an OL reading from all of the wires. Does this mean that the fan is bad?
Can a contractor cause a compressor to run and fan motor to not work ? I know it sounds like a capacitor but capacitor is fine and motor was replaced recently
Your video is always so good! Thank you...I have a spare fan motor from an old working condenser. I know it runs but the ohms are not adding up as supposed to: 31/82/95. Dose it mean it is going to die soon or something else? Thanks again.
I have an A/C system that is about 8 years old and the outside unit stopped coming on this past Sunday. I watched all of your videos, thank you BTW, but I can't seem to find the problem. I like to at least try to fix things myself but I don't know if I just wasted a day of no AC in the heat here in AZ. I tested my Compressor, I have continuity for all 3 plug ins, none of them are shorted out. My fan motor read 54.6, 35.8 and 90.3, so that looks good. My capacitor is a 45/5 Dual and read 47 and 5. I'm not sure what else I can do to check what's going on. I can press the little plastic button and the whole system turns on, but it does seem to be running a little slow. Oh, I also have 240 volts going to the unit. What else could be wrong ? Thanks for the help
Hi Earl! Sorry to hear that the AC quitting on you. Have you checked voltages in and out of the contactor? So 240v goes into one side and 240v should come out the other side when the little plunger gets pulled in. Also, you mentioned that you pressed on it and it came on. Does that mean the contactor plunger does not pull in on it's own? Does the coil get 24v when there is a call for cooling? If the contactor is not pulling in on its own, then I would start by figuring that out first. I have a video on 10 reasons why a contactor may not pull in if you need it.
Hrlo, Mr. Advice Could you please kindly advice me about this.. thank you 🙏👍 I Just replaced capacitor but the fan not spinning . ( i didnt check the fan before replaced, ouch) Inside the house ac is on but not cool. could you please tell me what to expect and to look at, ? Does it's needs freon? Connector or motor fan needs to fix, replaced? How much about price range of a motor fan? Thank you.🙏🙏🙏
I am not getting any continuity/resistance at an fan wire combination. Also, no continuity with any fan wire to ground. I have confirmed i am getting 240v to the contactor (brand new) and my capacitor specs out at the rated farad rating and not bulging at the top(replaced last summer). The fan spins freely so it’s not seized but it also won’t start when tapped with a screwdriver. I also noticed that the sealed bearing on the fan seems to be either leaking/lubed prior. As a last note, the fan motor gets hot but doesn’t spin when ac is turned on. I am really thinking the condenser fan is shot but wanted to see that if given these symptoms, has that been your experience as well..?
So my AC unit has one of those Turbo 200X universal caps and a hard start kit. I'm not sure what the original cap was but the one that's in there tests at 10mfd and 175mfd. It's not bulging so I think the cap is ok. The fan doesn't spin freely and doesn't spin up with help but the fan leads tested at 27, 27 and 55 ohms. My guess is the fan motor is bad since it's really stiff to turn but I'm not sure how else I could confirm that.
Hey Michael! Even though the motor resistance readings are good, the motor still may be bad just like you said. The electrical windings may be fine but the motor bearing is not. If it is hard to turn I would replace the motor and capacitor. (the new motor should list in the specs which size capacitor it requires)
Just wanted to follow up and let you know it was immediately apparent that my old motor was bad when the new one arrived because of how freely the new shaft spins. Got it installed and everything is good to go now. Thanks again for the videos!
Thanks! Yes you can, but the air handler blower motor usually has multiple speeds so checking one of those follows the same concept but slightly differently. (a reading for each speed)
If we have an electric furnace and an AC(also works as a heat pump), how do we test if the heat pump is generating heat, while both the heat pump and the furnace can generate heat?
Jay, thanks for your informative videos. I have an old Trane system which is still working pretty well, but the condensor fan is shutting off intermittently. I checked the resistances between the wires as you advise in this video and the sum of the 2 equal the 3rd indicating the motor is good. Is it shutting off due to internal heat protection? Would a new one do the same thing? The condensor unit is in the direct sun in the afternoon, so it gets pretty hot there when the outside temperature gets to 90 degrees or above.
There should be a little wiring diagram on the specs label on the motor itself. Usually it shows which wire is common there. Otherwise you can look on the condenser wiring diagram and see what color wire it is there. I also have a "how to wire a condenser fan motor" video if you need it.
Yes could not get to the point. This unit unfortunately is in direct sunlight most of the day, so I expect the parts on the unit to not last as long as they should. So oddly enough it eventually got to the 71 degrees a while ago. Do you think that maybe it could be that the compressor is starting to act up. The unit is 9 years old. The suction line is cool and sweats as you show in your video.
So if resistance between wires is common 58 other two wires 38-20 they add up however how much is to much or to less or does it matter as long as they add up
Ordered a replacement capacitor to match the existing. 70/7.5 MFD 370V Round Should my existing fan still not run (825 rpm ROT Cap 7.50/370 1.40A) can I replace it with a 6 month old motor from another unit? (1075 rpm ROT 5/370 1.8A) ? If so, can I still use the 70/7.5 capacitor that I just ordered, or must I downsize? What size should it be? The idea was to save money by using a motor I have versus spending $200 for a replacement 825 rpm unit. So grateful for your videos and your advice.
Well.. Generally that is frowned upon in the HVAC field. You will increase the RPM by 250. Keep in mind that the fan blade is designed for 825 RPM. Which means the noise that the unit makes will likely increase. (sometimes dramatically from all the extra vibration) It would also affect the efficiency and operating pressures of the unit. The refrigerant side of things may be thrown off a bit which can result in the unit not keeping up on hotter days. That being said... Yes, it can be done and people do replace motors with higher RPM replacements. Maybe you will get lucky and yours will work just fine. Or it may start to occasionally overheat and stop. Also, you could probably just get a different 5 MFD capacitor for the fan motor and use the 70 for the compressor. But with capacitors, going from a 5 to a 7.5 is a big difference and not recommended. I hope that helps! To summarize, I would not recommend it but it can be done and it probably will work. We do that in the field sometimes but only temporarily until we can get the right size.
A million thanks for your complete and rapid response. I should have stated that I have the complete 1075 rpm motor, fan blade and grill and that I live in the desert of Southern California. 120 degrees here this week. My unit's brown wire was connected to FAN, Blue to HERM and Yellow to C. HOPEFULLY, the dual capacitor I have on order will solve my issue. Just in case... to utilize a separate 5 MFD and the 70 for just the compressor, I would be truly grateful for your wiring directions, should you find the time to reply. Might you have a recommended replacement and source for the existing GE Commercial Motors by Regal Beloit 5KCP39LF 825 RPM motor? With sincere thanks and deepest appreciation.
Oh boy, 120 degrees sounds mighty hot! Well if it comes with the fan blade, then that does improve the odds! It would be worth a try I suppose. But I agree with you! Hopefully the capacitor will fix it for you! That would be best. The wiring for a separate 5 MFD capacitor is pretty easy. If the new motor has 2 brown capacitor wires, then those 2 wires would simply both go to the new capacitor instead of the dual capacitor. If there is only one wire from the fan that hooks up to the dual capacitor, then you would put that wire on one side of the separate 5 uF capacitor and then for the other side you would put in a jumper wire going to the common on the dual cap. I hope that makes sense.. Unfortunately I am having troubles trying to look up the motor that you mentioned.. 5KCP39LF is that the part number on the motor itself? I think being that it is a commercial motor it will be harder to find the OEM since they mostly only sell to contractors. The most important part is that the RPM, HP, and voltage line up. The length of the shaft sometimes too. If the screw holes don't line up, you can always drill new ones.
SUCCESS ! You are a GENIUS. A million thanks for sharing such valuable information with us all on TH-cam. The new capacitor arrived, and as you predicted, condenser fan started right up ! My worry for fan replacement was for naught. But it feels great to be able to enhance my knowledge. Thank you, kind Sir, for sharing your skills with me. I remain truly grateful ! P.S. I bought a voltage pen to hopefully prevent any shocks. Again, I thank you.
Hi, I replaced the capacitor and the thermostat. Motor will kick on and run for a few minutes than stops. I havnt checked the motor with a meter yet. But it's starting to point towards the motor. Any advice?
I just checked my fan motor and no ohms reading so I pulled the fan and put a free standing 18 inch turbo turbo where the fan was until I can getting another fan and it's 110 today central California. To answer your question yes if the fan stops then it going out
Thank you for this helpful video and all of your other great videos. In my situation, the fan was not spinning and I used a stick to get it started. That worked temporarily. Then it stopped working and I discovered the main 240 volt fuses outside the house were blown. I replaced the capacitor and the contactor and coil. I replaced the fuses and they instantly blew. I checked the motor today and got resistances of 24.7, 57.8, and 76.4. They are a lot lower than you got in the video, but they roughly add up, so I'm thinking the fan motor is probably good (the motor is a 208/230 1/4 hp unit). The AC unit is a PH13NR048 manufactured in 2011. Any ideas on the next step? Is it time to call in a repair tech?
how much force should the motor take to turn when power is off? I think my fans bearings are worn out being 26 years old it seemed a bit hard to turn i spun it a bit and it loosened up some then worked when i manually turned on contactor
thank you for your helpful video my recommendation for everyone no to use that power detector pen instead of that use your meter because some time it can be out of battery and won't give any signal and it will hurt you badly
I like that meter, so far it is the best one I've used. (My first meter was 300 bucks) But anyway, here it is on Amazon: UEI Multi Meter: amzn.to/2MbSHC2
Your videos are easy to understand! Really gave me a clear understanding how the system works and to troubleshoot. Having said that, I'm stump with the issue I'm having. The 24V sets the plunger down, but fan and compressor does not come on/no sound. There is 240V feeding into the two legs of the one-pole contactor. Disconnected the 240V from the breaker, with the plunger down, I get continuity between the in and out connectors on the plunger leg side. With 240v back on and the plunger down, do not get voltage at the output contactor terminals. If I jump the input terminal to the output terminal bypassing the plunger leg side, the compressor and fan comes on. I replaced the contactor and same symptoms. Am I missing the oblivious?
Hey Jay! I swapped my capacitor out since my readings were 28/3 on a 35/3 capacitor. I also checked the fan wires and got 159 , 122 & 37 between the wires. The fan still won’t start until I give it a push a few times. Do you think the condenser fan motor can still be bad even though readings add up? Should the fan wire lower readings be more even?
Thank yoi for sharing video. I have a question when i check my ac fan motor with multimeter: the brown and black is 52.7, the purple and black or purple and brown are OL. Does it mean my fan motor is bad or just the purple wire goes bad? Thank you
Jay, so my capacitor is kind of new. I replaced it myself a while ago and it’s been working fine. And it’s not bulged up and I check continuity with my primitive meter. So I believe the capacitor is ok. I have continuity with my fan motor wires and the olms #’s add up. So theoretically the motor should be good, but when I try to spin the fan blade, it doesn’t spin freely. That leads me to believe that the bearings are seized or in need or lubricant. Should I bother disassembling the motor and try to lubricate the bearings, or just get a new motor? What would you do? Thanks. Mike
@@milesbrown2Thanks for your response. i had the same problem, and its resolved with the new motor. The blades started rotating after i removed the motor from AC unit, and hammered a bit to remove fan. But i decided to change motor anyways as this is the second year with same problem.
You are awesome and wonderful explanations and details. I do have a question thought. I have already replaced my motor fan and capacitor, but my fan is still not working. One of my fuse from inside the house, the 24v. keeps shorting. Can you tell what the problem might be. Thanks a lot. Keep up the good work!!
Hi how are u ? I or already change capacitor and contactor , The motor and compressor still doesn’t work。when you put the contactor down is work. Can you tell me what happened ? Thank you
What would cause a fan motor to stop running? I turn the thermostat to cool and the system initializes but to get the fan spinning I have to spin the fan and then it will start. After several minutes the fan stops and the compressor stays running. It's a new fan motor. I have also replaced the start / run capacitor and the contactor, and then the fan motor, in that order.
Hm.. That's a tough one. I can't tell you what's up with it without checking it out.. From what you described, it sounds like either you have a bad fan motor right out of the box or perhaps you are low on refrigerant. It could be a voltage/wiring problem too. Hard to say without seeing it.
Usually condenser fan motors do not have adjustable speeds. Was it always like this or is this a recent development? If it is recent, then I would guess that either the capacitor is weak/dead or the motor is not getting enough voltage. (perhaps a fuse in the disconnect box is blown? Would need a multimeter to check for sure)
@@WordofAdviceTV The maintenance person has been messing with my AC from the condenser on purpose it was working fine and in April he pulled the disconnect switch. Then I had no AC. When I put in a work order for it to be fixed, he was sent to fix it. Only after he left the temp took an hour to drop one degree, in an 800 square foot apt. Everyone else drops 4 degrees in 20 minutes how mine did before. Now it will take 4 hours to go down 4 degrees.I went out to look at my fan because I know he is doing it on purpose. My fan is slower than everyone else. Theirs are spinning fast that you can't see the blades. Mine is different. I have a witness, another neighbor looked and said my fan is slower than the others. The maintenance man did something on the condenser to change the fan from fast to slow. I am just trying to figure out what he did not he AC condenser, if he pulled a wire or move a wire how he changed the speed.
@@earthwisdomhelps Oh man.. If this is a sabotage type of situation, it would be hard for me to try to guess what he did.. Have you tried turning off the power, taking off the electrical panel on the outside unit and seeing if there are any disconnected wires? Are you able to get someone else out there to take a look at it, besides that guy?
@@WordofAdviceTV Thats the word Sabotage. I called Rheem contractors and people who answered the phone said the fan being slow would cause it not cool. I'm not getting him to come back he doing it. I will have to hire someone but I don't know why I can't find out what he did to slow that fan. He did not come in my unit it's doing it on that condenser. What wires are switched and where to control the blades to go fast or slow? I know the air handler is in my apt. He is configuring it from the AC condenser that goes to my unit located outside. (Another thing when he left, he used an inferred gun showing it was coming out 8 degrees, out of the vents lower than the setting. Even thought it's 8 degrees lowering than what it shows on the thermodat, I found out that it's not going to matter due to the fan speed. Someone else told me, the old neighbor, he used to work on AC and said the ideal temp coming out of the vent is 20-25 degrees lower than wha the thermosdat says. I have an inferred gun my neighbors thermostat was on 72 and it was the temp from the vents was between 47 and 48.
Thanks for the guide, but quick question. My A/C is out - condenser comes on but fan does not. I've already changed the capacitor, which led me to check the fan motor with this video. However, my ohms are adding up. I got 38, 52, and 88. What's my next move?
Thank you for the informative video, I tested the fan and my fan was good, come to find out I had a bad capacitor. Thank you once again👍
I have a question for you why is my Central air A/C keeps turning on and off every few secs on ones having that problems only me thankyou
I'm the HVAC technician and I can say this buddy is good enough in teaching. I always like to check your vedios. Big up.
Yeeaaa ima go ahead and call major BS here
You are the best. A/c stopped working in the middle of the summer. Had a estimate to fix it $700.00. Luckily found your TH-cam. Bought a capacitor for 8 bucks and now I’m chillin again. Thanks.
You know what's wonderful about people is when they share their knowledge. I appreciate you for sharing your knowledge with us. We fixed our AC! YAY!
You just saved me about $500. The ohms were good but the motor is 17 years old and I'm told it has seized up. Capacitor was just replaced. Amazon and TH-cam to the rescue!
How did you deduce that the fan motor had seized up? Does it not spin freely by hand? I'm curious because I think I'm in the same situation you are. After 18 years, my condenser fan stopped working. All these guides say to check the ohms, and if the readings are correct, then the fan is fine. My ohms were perfect. the fan spins freely. I took the fan motor apart to check for damage/corrosion, and it looks almost new. However, it will not come on. The compressor comes on, then shuts down due to the fan not spinning. I have all correct voltage at all connections. New capacitor. So, it has to be a bad motor, right??? lol! I appreciate these videos, and I know the content creators try to keep their tutorials as basic as possible - but I haven't heard "If the fan's ohm readings are correct, then the fan is most likely good. However, it is possible that other issues with the motor could prevent it from working." I'm just going to order a new motor, and return it if it doesn't work. I'd really like to hear how your repair goes! Good luck!
@@KittyNoNo our AC guy mentioned that the fan motor may become noisy i.e like a bad bearing. I didn't notice anything specifically, since we have 2 units outside and can't really hear them inside. I figured there aren't many other things that could be bad, and the capacitor was replaced the day before. I didn't take the motor apart to look for corrosion, but it seemed like a reasonable cause of failure. I didn't want to pay his fee to come back out and check it/replace the motor (which worked when he left the day before), so I found this video.
Mild panic, the new motor came in, and it had 2 additional wires connected in a loop, which changed the black wire to blue. In between looked like a lighting ballast. White ceramic. No where to put it, and definitely would get in the way of the fan. We zip tied it to the grate. Hope it works out! We plugged everything in, confirmed voltage. The compressor started but not the fan. We pushed the blade with a stick a little and it took off. We have cold air! We hope the repairs hold up. Thanks again!
@@robertfulton4829 Thank you very much for taking the time to reply. I see that you've installed the new motor, and that it solved your problem. Good to hear! Hopefully, push -starting the fan was a one-time thing and it will start automatically going forward LOL
I''m looking forward to cold air too! Thanks again!
@@KittyNoNo Well now we have a new issue. Cool air, but the temps arent dropping. I will have to investigate more today.
You are too good! Can't thank you enough for putting this info out there. Our fan quit working a while back. Your videos pointed me through the troubleshooting effort: capacitor tested ok and was not physically deformed. Then found quite a few dead ants in the contactor. Cleaned it out and the fan turned on as it should. Fast forward a few weeks and the fan has quit again. Will be testing it as you have shown here. Very much appreciated!
I subbed to your channel last year when I became a homeowner, this video fixed my A/C this morning after it broke down last night and I was still able to go to work. My capacitor wasn't shorting to ground, but it was almost too hot to touch when I removed it. I was able to push start the fan last night and set the temp down to 65 so it would run all night and we got some sleep before the repair.
Really appreciate all your videos. Very consice.
My mother's unit was frooze up, so I helped her get it running again. But the tech she had apparently called came over. He simply added more refrigerate and left. Only to wake-up to a frozen unit again. Now the blower motor is not even kicking on. Hopefully it does not need replaced.
God Bless & God Speed Brother.👍🏻
No offense, but for a young guy, you really have your stuff together. I really appreciate how you put emphasis on safety precautions. I took my grandson to a trade school open house, and as we walked out of the electrician display of graduates, there was a separate display of one particular individual. I asked what was the reason for his distinction. We were told that on the second week of his first job he had electrocuted
himself by not following one of the basic rules that were taught at the class. You never know if your emphasis on safety and what is routine practice for you, could reach the right ears and save a life.
@Blank Man No offense that I first assumed because of his age he wouldn't be as cautious and safe as he is. An assumption that I apologize for having is what I meant.
@Blank Man The young man who electrocuted himself was relatively young and in his 30's, probably like you. Maybe subconsciously that was
In the back of my mind. Who knows.
Our A/C unit has making buzzing sound all the sudden I replaced entire A/C system and unit 2years ago.
It was about $6000.😢 I am so upset because #1 insist so freaking hot and #2 only 2years?? I am having issues with brand new A/c unit 🤬I called the company 3times they don't even call me back.
Jay, thanks to your videos I was able to diagnose my ac problems and fix them myself. Much appreciated.
Thanks for SAFETY FIRST cautions, so very important in everything we do, especially when we are around electricity !! A big thank you for the detailed video on how to check the fan motor Ohms resistance. At first I changed out the Start Capacitor and motor started, but would not keep running. Then I followed your instructions for checking the motor and decided it should be replaced because of the Ohms resistance measurements and what I felt were bad bearings (way to much end play). New motor in and running great.
Good work young man thanks for the info keep up these helpful videos they are a treasure to people on a budget and cant afford a service call.
Thanks
Such a precise and easy to understand explanation. Thank you bro.
Thanks for your video, my capacitor was bulging on top so I replaced it and now my air conditioner is working. Thanks again.
That's what we like to hear! Thank you for commenting!
Hey Jay I would like to say thank you for your video. The knowledge that I get from you is the bomb. The simple repairs I can do myself just because of you. Keep putting the videos out and may you be blessed
This video very helpful I just following his diagnosis step and tracking by multimeter A/C out box one of fuse was gone so replaced new one and A/C working great. Save lot of money and times. Thanks again an appreciated this video.!!! ;)
Thank you. I love those AC units you have there in the US. I wish we had them here in the UK
Great advice. Thanks very much. You're an awesome teacher.
Thank you for your time and explaining the process. Your are a great teacher.
Its crazy how much more im learning doing both install and service, I get to learn both sides and I have a better understanding of the whole system. Your vides have helped me out a lot, keep it up!
Thank you! Glad to hear the videos are helpful. Good luck in your career!
Very clear step by step directions. Thanks for the help!
Thanks! Through your videos I have been able to isolate the fan non operation as the issue. Next up for me is to use what I learned here to check the resistance with my meter to verify that it is the fan motor that is in fact bad before spending perhaps hundreds on a new motor. The only other thing that I am unable to check is the r-22 pressure as I do not have the proper gauges for that.
Brilliant information- resistance reading
I like how simply explain the things! thank you
I try to keep it non-technical ;) Thanks for watching and commenting!
It's great that you get right to the point with all of your videos. Subscribed 👍
U refreshed my HVAC memory. My condensor fan not running. I replaced both capacitors. Still not running, but I hear humming sound.
Thanks for this video. I just had to replace both motors inside and out on my unit. I'm no electrician but I want to tinker with the old motors to learn a thing or two. Before I open the casing and dissect them like a frog, I'm going to take the opportunity to learn how to test them.
I really appreciate you making these videos. You have helped me a lot! Thank you
Thanks much, you gave me trust in me , to do it myself, and finally realised it was a wire that was cut between to capacitor! Ac is back my boy!
Hi, Sir, you are a great mentor. I have some questions: If the fan motor stops running but the compressor is still running, what will happen? In this situation, why is the circuit breaker tripped? and how does the compressor's thermal protection mechanism protect the compressor? Thank you.
thanks for all your feedback....keep up the great work and videos...
This guy is good, thanks you are my new Teacher
Excellent video, helped us fix our AC today!!
Great video. My ac stopped yesterday. Replaced the capacitor today. The fan didn't start, but I nudged it and it started, and cooled for quite some time, then stopped. The motor was very hot to the touch. Is that a good indicator that the motor is bad? I'm hoping I didn't burn up the compressor with it running without the fan. Thank you for your help and all the great info
Excellent video. Checking mine tomorrow.
I have 24V coming in from my thermostat to my contactor. My contactor is showing 10.3ohm resistance. I even had my contactor tested. Everything kicks on when I press in the plunger and my fan and compressor starts. I’m at a loss of what it can be now. Could it be the defrost control board? 4:57
Have you checked all the things I list in this video? th-cam.com/video/NVPhsK4gK1A/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Di1iqNrToDrbTEGN
Yes I did see that video. However none of those issues that were mentioned is my problem.
hi
thanks a lot for what U`ve done
my motor is good but it runs for a seond only and goes off immediately
I`ve changed capacitors contactor but no change
indoor unit works normal but not cold
what could cost that?
indoor or outdoor unit ?
great educational video as always
Awesome bro..thanks for sharong your ecperience
Hey man, that looks super easy! Think I need to do some diagnostics on my unit. I'll look to you for guidance.
Great video, clear and simple, good job, thanks. If the fan motor goes on and off when the compressor is running, is this also a sign of bad fan motor? or there might be other issues? Thanks
Thanks for the video! My compressor turns on but my outside fan doesn't until I give it a push. Is that a symptom of something specific or should I just go ahead and check the ohmage of the fan motor? Thanks again!
I changed out the capacitor after reading online that several others had my exact symptoms. Turns out that was the issue and my AC is fixed! I paid $14 for a new capacitor and $11.63 for shipping compared to $115/hr just to get the problem diagnosed by a professional. Thank you World of Advice TV for the great content, you saved me some serious cheddar!
Simple and to the point.
If you checked continuity between the individual wires and you didn't hear the beep, that would also indicate bad motor?
Yes. If there is no continuity, then the winding is open and the motor needs to be replaced. Although once in a while my meter plays tricks on me.. (perhaps it was weak batteries) I check for continuity and it doesn't beep. But then I check resistance and there is resistance..
Hi Jay. My fan does not turn on by itself, but when the compressor is running and I start the fan spinning with a screwdriver it will keep spinning by the motors power. Is this pretty much a slam-dunk capacitor diagnosis? If not, what could be the issue? There is no abnormal heat nor sound coming from the fan motor when it is running
Awesome repair checking
Thanks for your help. Did the resistance test on my fan and it showed it was bad.
Your videos are very interesting
Thanks for your great videos! If the resistances are good, what other reasons can a fan motor go bad?
A motor can fail electrically or mechanically. A meter won't help with a mechanical problem. A seized motor for example, where the bearing is shot. If you spin it by hand and it spins hard instead of freely, then the motor is bad. You can try oiling it, that might free it up. Usually the motor would get replaced though.
@@WordofAdviceTV Great! Thank you for the best advise as always.
Well presented thank you.
Great video. Good job 👍👍👍
Thank,your videos are very precise and informative. I verified that my compressor is working and I've installed a new capacitor. I then checked the three wire"s you've shown on my condenser fan and get an OL reading from all of the wires. Does this mean that the fan is bad?
Can a contractor cause a compressor to run and fan motor to not work ? I know it sounds like a capacitor but capacitor is fine and motor was replaced recently
Your video is always so good! Thank you...I have a spare fan motor from an old working condenser. I know it runs but the ohms are not adding up as supposed to: 31/82/95. Dose it mean it is going to die soon or something else? Thanks again.
Great video here
From another tech
God bless your family and business at high life forever...
This guy is good. Reminds of Linus of the computer world...
What's Linus TH-cam channel ?
Probably want to mention draining the capacitor before grabbing onto any wires.
That scared the crap out of me when he was poking around that capacitor.
How big of a charge will it hold without power ?
@@TWINDFL
Enough to blow a hole in your hand.
I have an A/C system that is about 8 years old and the outside unit stopped coming on this past Sunday. I watched all of your videos, thank you BTW, but I can't seem to find the problem. I like to at least try to fix things myself but I don't know if I just wasted a day of no AC in the heat here in AZ. I tested my Compressor, I have continuity for all 3 plug ins, none of them are shorted out. My fan motor read 54.6, 35.8 and 90.3, so that looks good. My capacitor is a 45/5 Dual and read 47 and 5. I'm not sure what else I can do to check what's going on. I can press the little plastic button and the whole system turns on, but it does seem to be running a little slow. Oh, I also have 240 volts going to the unit. What else could be wrong ? Thanks for the help
Hi Earl! Sorry to hear that the AC quitting on you. Have you checked voltages in and out of the contactor? So 240v goes into one side and 240v should come out the other side when the little plunger gets pulled in. Also, you mentioned that you pressed on it and it came on. Does that mean the contactor plunger does not pull in on it's own? Does the coil get 24v when there is a call for cooling? If the contactor is not pulling in on its own, then I would start by figuring that out first. I have a video on 10 reasons why a contactor may not pull in if you need it.
Hrlo, Mr. Advice
Could you please kindly advice me about this..
thank you 🙏👍
I Just replaced capacitor but the fan not spinning .
( i didnt check the fan before replaced, ouch)
Inside the house ac is on but not cool.
could you please tell me what to expect and
to look at, ?
Does it's needs freon?
Connector or motor fan needs to fix, replaced?
How much about price range of a motor fan?
Thank you.🙏🙏🙏
a/c fan should turn on when heater is running?
I am not getting any continuity/resistance at an fan wire combination. Also, no continuity with any fan wire to ground. I have confirmed i am getting 240v to the contactor (brand new) and my capacitor specs out at the rated farad rating and not bulging at the top(replaced last summer). The fan spins freely so it’s not seized but it also won’t start when tapped with a screwdriver. I also noticed that the sealed bearing on the fan seems to be either leaking/lubed prior. As a last note, the fan motor gets hot but doesn’t spin when ac is turned on. I am really thinking the condenser fan is shot but wanted to see that if given these symptoms, has that been your experience as well..?
Very helpful
Thank. This lead me to the problem. It wasn’t fan.
Great video my air compression runs but fan don't run is it safe to run just had installed August 3
From Kenya Africa
So my AC unit has one of those Turbo 200X universal caps and a hard start kit. I'm not sure what the original cap was but the one that's in there tests at 10mfd and 175mfd. It's not bulging so I think the cap is ok. The fan doesn't spin freely and doesn't spin up with help but the fan leads tested at 27, 27 and 55 ohms. My guess is the fan motor is bad since it's really stiff to turn but I'm not sure how else I could confirm that.
Hey Michael! Even though the motor resistance readings are good, the motor still may be bad just like you said. The electrical windings may be fine but the motor bearing is not. If it is hard to turn I would replace the motor and capacitor. (the new motor should list in the specs which size capacitor it requires)
@@WordofAdviceTV Hey thanks a lot for taking the time to reply. The feedback and direction is really appreciated. 👍
Just wanted to follow up and let you know it was immediately apparent that my old motor was bad when the new one arrived because of how freely the new shaft spins. Got it installed and everything is good to go now. Thanks again for the videos!
@@Michael_303 Glad I could help! Thank you for the update, stay cool! :)
Awesome job. Can you check the air handler blower motor the same way?
Thanks! Yes you can, but the air handler blower motor usually has multiple speeds so checking one of those follows the same concept but slightly differently. (a reading for each speed)
Good video.
Hi Jay. This is psc motor. And there was big readings between purple and brown wire, which I think it’s start and run winding? Isn’t it?
If we have an electric furnace and an AC(also works as a heat pump), how do we test if the heat pump is generating heat, while both the heat pump and the furnace can generate heat?
Jay, thanks for your informative videos. I have an old Trane system which is still working pretty well, but the condensor fan is shutting off intermittently. I checked the resistances between the wires as you advise in this video and the sum of the 2 equal the 3rd indicating the motor is good. Is it shutting off due to internal heat protection? Would a new one do the same thing? The condensor unit is in the direct sun in the afternoon, so it gets pretty hot there when the outside temperature gets to 90 degrees or above.
you ever figure this out?
Replacing my capacitor fixed my problem. Still tested good. Just had a very very slight bulge on bottom.
Your really helping, but theres one question, how to identify the common leads wire in condensor fan motor
There should be a little wiring diagram on the specs label on the motor itself. Usually it shows which wire is common there. Otherwise you can look on the condenser wiring diagram and see what color wire it is there. I also have a "how to wire a condenser fan motor" video if you need it.
Yes could not get to the point. This unit unfortunately is in direct sunlight most of the day, so I expect the parts on the unit to not last as long as they should. So oddly enough it eventually got to the 71 degrees a while ago. Do you think that maybe it could be that the compressor is starting to act up. The unit is 9 years old. The suction line is cool and sweats as you show in your video.
So if resistance between wires is common 58 other two wires 38-20 they add up however how much is to much or to less or does it matter as long as they add up
Ordered a replacement capacitor to match the existing. 70/7.5 MFD 370V Round
Should my existing fan still not run (825 rpm ROT Cap 7.50/370 1.40A) can I replace it with a 6 month old motor from another unit? (1075 rpm ROT 5/370 1.8A) ?
If so, can I still use the 70/7.5 capacitor that I just ordered, or must I downsize? What size should it be?
The idea was to save money by using a motor I have versus spending $200 for a replacement 825 rpm unit.
So grateful for your videos and your advice.
Well.. Generally that is frowned upon in the HVAC field. You will increase the RPM by 250. Keep in mind that the fan blade is designed for 825 RPM. Which means the noise that the unit makes will likely increase. (sometimes dramatically from all the extra vibration) It would also affect the efficiency and operating pressures of the unit. The refrigerant side of things may be thrown off a bit which can result in the unit not keeping up on hotter days.
That being said... Yes, it can be done and people do replace motors with higher RPM replacements. Maybe you will get lucky and yours will work just fine. Or it may start to occasionally overheat and stop. Also, you could probably just get a different 5 MFD capacitor for the fan motor and use the 70 for the compressor. But with capacitors, going from a 5 to a 7.5 is a big difference and not recommended. I hope that helps! To summarize, I would not recommend it but it can be done and it probably will work. We do that in the field sometimes but only temporarily until we can get the right size.
A million thanks for your complete and rapid response. I should have stated that I have the complete 1075 rpm motor, fan blade and grill and that I live in the desert of Southern California. 120 degrees here this week. My unit's brown wire was connected to FAN, Blue to HERM and Yellow to C. HOPEFULLY, the dual capacitor I have on order will solve my issue. Just in case... to utilize a separate 5 MFD and the 70 for just the compressor, I would be truly grateful for your wiring directions, should you find the time to reply. Might you have a recommended replacement and source for the existing GE Commercial Motors by Regal Beloit 5KCP39LF 825 RPM motor? With sincere thanks and deepest appreciation.
Oh boy, 120 degrees sounds mighty hot! Well if it comes with the fan blade, then that does improve the odds! It would be worth a try I suppose. But I agree with you! Hopefully the capacitor will fix it for you! That would be best.
The wiring for a separate 5 MFD capacitor is pretty easy. If the new motor has 2 brown capacitor wires, then those 2 wires would simply both go to the new capacitor instead of the dual capacitor. If there is only one wire from the fan that hooks up to the dual capacitor, then you would put that wire on one side of the separate 5 uF capacitor and then for the other side you would put in a jumper wire going to the common on the dual cap. I hope that makes sense..
Unfortunately I am having troubles trying to look up the motor that you mentioned.. 5KCP39LF is that the part number on the motor itself? I think being that it is a commercial motor it will be harder to find the OEM since they mostly only sell to contractors. The most important part is that the RPM, HP, and voltage line up. The length of the shaft sometimes too. If the screw holes don't line up, you can always drill new ones.
SUCCESS ! You are a GENIUS. A million thanks for sharing such valuable information with us all on TH-cam. The new capacitor arrived, and as you predicted, condenser fan started right up ! My worry for fan replacement was for naught. But it feels great to be able to enhance my knowledge. Thank you, kind Sir, for sharing your skills with me. I remain truly grateful ! P.S. I bought a voltage pen to hopefully prevent any shocks. Again, I thank you.
Hi, I replaced the capacitor and the thermostat. Motor will kick on and run for a few minutes than stops. I havnt checked the motor with a meter yet. But it's starting to point towards the motor. Any advice?
I just checked my fan motor and no ohms reading so I pulled the fan and put a free standing 18 inch turbo turbo where the fan was until I can getting another fan and it's 110 today central California. To answer your question yes if the fan stops then it going out
Thank you for this helpful video and all of your other great videos. In my situation, the fan was not spinning and I used a stick to get it started. That worked temporarily. Then it stopped working and I discovered the main 240 volt fuses outside the house were blown. I replaced the capacitor and the contactor and coil. I replaced the fuses and they instantly blew. I checked the motor today and got resistances of 24.7, 57.8, and 76.4. They are a lot lower than you got in the video, but they roughly add up, so I'm thinking the fan motor is probably good (the motor is a 208/230 1/4 hp unit). The AC unit is a PH13NR048 manufactured in 2011. Any ideas on the next step? Is it time to call in a repair tech?
good video, another possibility is an in-line fuse.
Ah yes. Thank you for pointing that out!
You happen to be in the west metro ?
how much force should the motor take to turn when power is off?
I think my fans bearings are worn out being 26 years old it seemed a bit hard to turn i spun it a bit and it loosened up some then worked when i manually turned on contactor
Thank you! For the informative
thank you for your helpful video my recommendation for everyone no to use that power detector pen instead of that use your meter because some time it can be out of battery and won't give any signal and it will hurt you badly
That's a good safety recommendation! Thank you for the advice!
That's why you stick it in a outlet or something and make sure it's working before assuming anything.
Thank you Sir
Very nice. What's the brand of that meter? I like the fact that you can also check current with it.
I like that meter, so far it is the best one I've used. (My first meter was 300 bucks) But anyway, here it is on Amazon: UEI Multi Meter: amzn.to/2MbSHC2
Love the video you got to the poi
Your videos are easy to understand! Really gave me a clear understanding how the system works and to troubleshoot. Having said that, I'm stump with the issue I'm having. The 24V sets the plunger down, but fan and compressor does not come on/no sound. There is 240V feeding into the two legs of the one-pole contactor. Disconnected the 240V from the breaker, with the plunger down, I get continuity between the in and out connectors on the plunger leg side. With 240v back on and the plunger down, do not get voltage at the output contactor terminals. If I jump the input terminal to the output terminal bypassing the plunger leg side, the compressor and fan comes on. I replaced the contactor and same symptoms. Am I missing the oblivious?
what ended up being the issue?
sounds like bad contactor. replace it.
Awesome video. Thank you sir. So in my case the fan starts and than about 2-3 after just stops. Yogurt thoughts or anyone else . Cheers
Good job as always. Congratulations !!!!
Hey Jay! I swapped my capacitor out since my readings were 28/3 on a 35/3 capacitor. I also checked the fan wires and got 159 , 122 & 37 between the wires. The fan still won’t start until I give it a push a few times. Do you think the condenser fan motor can still be bad even though readings add up? Should the fan wire lower readings be more even?
Thank yoi for sharing video. I have a question when i check my ac fan motor with multimeter: the brown and black is 52.7, the purple and black or purple and brown are OL. Does it mean my fan motor is bad or just the purple wire goes bad? Thank you
Jay, so my capacitor is kind of new. I replaced it myself a while ago and it’s been working fine. And it’s not bulged up and I check continuity with my primitive meter. So I believe the capacitor is ok. I have continuity with my fan motor wires and the olms #’s add up. So theoretically the motor should be good, but when I try to spin the fan blade, it doesn’t spin freely. That leads me to believe that the bearings are seized or in need or lubricant.
Should I bother disassembling the motor and try to lubricate the bearings, or just get a new motor?
What would you do?
Thanks.
Mike
What was the solution?
Moid M I ended up buying a new motor and change it out. Working perfectly now.
@@milesbrown2Thanks for your response. i had the same problem, and its resolved with the new motor. The blades started rotating after i removed the motor from AC unit, and hammered a bit to remove fan. But i decided to change motor anyways as this is the second year with same problem.
Moid M well done. New = Better😊
You are awesome and wonderful explanations and details. I do have a question thought. I have already replaced my motor fan and capacitor, but my fan is still not working. One of my fuse from inside the house, the 24v. keeps shorting. Can you tell what the problem might be. Thanks a lot. Keep up the good work!!
Hi how are u ? I or already change capacitor and contactor , The motor and compressor still doesn’t work。when you put the contactor down is work. Can you tell me what happened ? Thank you
What would cause a fan motor to stop running? I turn the thermostat to cool and the system initializes but to get the fan spinning I have to spin the fan and then it will start. After several minutes the fan stops and the compressor stays running. It's a new fan motor. I have also replaced the start / run capacitor and the contactor, and then the fan motor, in that order.
Hm.. That's a tough one. I can't tell you what's up with it without checking it out.. From what you described, it sounds like either you have a bad fan motor right out of the box or perhaps you are low on refrigerant. It could be a voltage/wiring problem too. Hard to say without seeing it.
Did you ever figure out your issue? My unit is doing the same thing. Compressor turns on but fan won't start until I give it a push
Should the fan be working at all the time ?? Or is a cycle of on and off ?
sir, i saw you pull wires from the capacitor, do i need to discharge it first before i pull? thank you so much.
Yes. Verify that the power is off, discharge the capacitor, and only then pull off the wires.
Where do you change the speed on an A/C condenser fan? Mine is moving slower than it should. Would I find this wiring in the condenser or air handler?
Usually condenser fan motors do not have adjustable speeds. Was it always like this or is this a recent development? If it is recent, then I would guess that either the capacitor is weak/dead or the motor is not getting enough voltage. (perhaps a fuse in the disconnect box is blown? Would need a multimeter to check for sure)
@@WordofAdviceTV The maintenance person has been messing with my AC from the condenser on purpose it was working fine and in April he pulled the disconnect switch. Then I had no AC. When I put in a work order for it to be fixed, he was sent to fix it. Only after he left the temp took an hour to drop one degree, in an 800 square foot apt. Everyone else drops 4 degrees in 20 minutes how mine did before. Now it will take 4 hours to go down 4 degrees.I went out to look at my fan because I know he is doing it on purpose. My fan is slower than everyone else. Theirs are spinning fast that you can't see the blades. Mine is different. I have a witness, another neighbor looked and said my fan is slower than the others. The maintenance man did something on the condenser to change the fan from fast to slow. I am just trying to figure out what he did not he AC condenser, if he pulled a wire or move a wire how he changed the speed.
@@earthwisdomhelps Oh man.. If this is a sabotage type of situation, it would be hard for me to try to guess what he did.. Have you tried turning off the power, taking off the electrical panel on the outside unit and seeing if there are any disconnected wires? Are you able to get someone else out there to take a look at it, besides that guy?
@@WordofAdviceTV Thats the word Sabotage. I called Rheem contractors and people who answered the phone said the fan being slow would cause it not cool. I'm not getting him to come back he doing it. I will have to hire someone but I don't know why I can't find out what he did to slow that fan. He did not come in my unit it's doing it on that condenser. What wires are switched and where to control the blades to go fast or slow? I know the air handler is in my apt. He is configuring it from the AC condenser that goes to my unit located outside. (Another thing when he left, he used an inferred gun showing it was coming out 8 degrees, out of the vents lower than the setting. Even thought it's 8 degrees lowering than what it shows on the thermodat, I found out that it's not going to matter due to the fan speed. Someone else told me, the old neighbor, he used to work on AC and said the ideal temp coming out of the vent is 20-25 degrees lower than wha the thermosdat says. I have an inferred gun my neighbors thermostat was on 72 and it was the temp from the vents was between 47 and 48.
Could you please make a video of the top five water heater problems I’m still confused about that topic
Thanks for the guide, but quick question. My A/C is out - condenser comes on but fan does not. I've already changed the capacitor, which led me to check the fan motor with this video. However, my ohms are adding up. I got 38, 52, and 88. What's my next move?