Amazon affiliate links for anything that I used in this video: Expansion tank overflow pipe - amzn.to/3ZKV3i8 Female (E-torx) Torx socket set - amzn.to/3Q69qKy Stretch Belt Tool - amzn.to/3S8U0qD Timing Tools - amzn.to/45pP7wf
£1300??? That sounds like “go away, we can’t be bothered” price. That’s how I learned to change the hard drive on my iMac back in the day, no one wanted to touch it and those who would gave me silly quotes so I couldn’t afford not to figure it out. Good job 👍
The 'rust' indicates that the engine core plugs are leaking and will eventually result in a misfire as the plug lead gets drowned. Removing and replacing those plugs is pretty easy. Remove spark plugs and cover plug holes to prevent debris entry. Drain enough coolant to prevent it leaking out the top when the core plugs are removed (drain around 4 litres) then drill small hole in the core plug (say 6mm) and lever them out after. You can knock one edge DOWN and grab the edge that pops up. Clean up inner edges of the core plug holes and fit new plugs WITH a smear of silicon sealant around them (ask me why!) Use a large socket to seat and drive home the plugs to 'just under the top' of the hole. Plugs are 25mm diameter and available 'everywhere'.
Thanks for the tip, appreciated! I might take the oppourtunity to take the front end off when its time to do them and finally clean the surface rust off of the chassis legs. In the meantime the cars barely used, I pop it out for a spin now and then just to keep the rust off the brakes.
@@monkey-hut No denying that keeping these 'old' vehicles roadworthy will pay off in time. Mine (Mazda 2 - same engine as yours though) cost me £150 over 5 years ago and still going strong. I even paid £250 to buy a later model (facelift) to upgrade the lights and interior! Far cheap than buying the parts!
@@kellyeye7224 I'm half toying with the idea of going through the entire car, painting, reviving and protecting the entire underneath. It's currently at a tipping point where surface rust is showing up everywhere and the car is not worth much so it's not really worth it for me to spend that much time and money but no-one else will either and it would be a shame to let it rust
hi mate , I have a 2005 Mk6 fiesta, same as yours, I've got a timing belt and water pump kit for mine as well, I just wondered what impact wrench you bought that you used for the crankshaft pulley? anyway congratulations for doing your timing belt, as I want to do mine also , thanks
@@monkey-hut hi thanks for getting back to me, I bought a Ryobi impact from Halfords as well , it says it will do 400 nm , I watched some reviews on the Ryobi, and it was tested and performed well, even exceeding 400nm , that's why I I bought a Ryobi impact driver, anyway I've only used mine on wheel nuts sofar , no probs on about 100nm , it may get tested when I do the cambelt , thanks for your videos, hope to see more,👍👍👍
Once you have inserted the crankshaft locking pin, turn the engine by hand until it hits the pin. Then, if the camshafts line up, everything is in place.
Amazon affiliate links for anything that I used in this video:
Expansion tank overflow pipe - amzn.to/3ZKV3i8
Female (E-torx) Torx socket set - amzn.to/3Q69qKy
Stretch Belt Tool - amzn.to/3S8U0qD
Timing Tools - amzn.to/45pP7wf
Thanks so much for the video, really helped me fix my own! Ford wanted £1300 for the job!
£1300??? That sounds like “go away, we can’t be bothered” price. That’s how I learned to change the hard drive on my iMac back in the day, no one wanted to touch it and those who would gave me silly quotes so I couldn’t afford not to figure it out. Good job 👍
I just did this on mine. Took me 3 weekends because everything was so corroded. Finally finished at the start of this month
I know how you feel, I’ve never had some many bolts snap on one job before. I think it was 6 altogether 😂
The 'rust' indicates that the engine core plugs are leaking and will eventually result in a misfire as the plug lead gets drowned. Removing and replacing those plugs is pretty easy. Remove spark plugs and cover plug holes to prevent debris entry. Drain enough coolant to prevent it leaking out the top when the core plugs are removed (drain around 4 litres) then drill small hole in the core plug (say 6mm) and lever them out after. You can knock one edge DOWN and grab the edge that pops up. Clean up inner edges of the core plug holes and fit new plugs WITH a smear of silicon sealant around them (ask me why!) Use a large socket to seat and drive home the plugs to 'just under the top' of the hole. Plugs are 25mm diameter and available 'everywhere'.
Thanks for the tip, appreciated! I might take the oppourtunity to take the front end off when its time to do them and finally clean the surface rust off of the chassis legs. In the meantime the cars barely used, I pop it out for a spin now and then just to keep the rust off the brakes.
@@monkey-hut No denying that keeping these 'old' vehicles roadworthy will pay off in time. Mine (Mazda 2 - same engine as yours though) cost me £150 over 5 years ago and still going strong. I even paid £250 to buy a later model (facelift) to upgrade the lights and interior! Far cheap than buying the parts!
@@kellyeye7224 I'm half toying with the idea of going through the entire car, painting, reviving and protecting the entire underneath. It's currently at a tipping point where surface rust is showing up everywhere and the car is not worth much so it's not really worth it for me to spend that much time and money but no-one else will either and it would be a shame to let it rust
hi mate , I have a 2005 Mk6 fiesta, same as yours, I've got a timing belt and water pump kit for mine as well, I just wondered what impact wrench you bought that you used for the crankshaft pulley? anyway congratulations for doing your timing belt, as I want to do mine also , thanks
I bought a Ryobi one from Halfords but it didn’t do the job and I ended up doing it by hand.
@@monkey-hut hi thanks for getting back to me, I bought a Ryobi impact from Halfords as well , it says it will do 400 nm , I watched some reviews on the Ryobi, and it was tested and performed well, even exceeding 400nm , that's why I I bought a Ryobi impact driver, anyway I've only used mine on wheel nuts sofar , no probs on about 100nm , it may get tested when I do the cambelt , thanks for your videos, hope to see more,👍👍👍
That crank bolt is single use its a stretch bolt should have replaced with a new one...good job though well done..
Thanks for the info, I don't think the kit included one so it never crossed my mind.
How do i knw the exact place where the Pistons will b? Or does it mean the piston will be at tdc, pls explain
Once you have inserted the crankshaft locking pin, turn the engine by hand until it hits the pin. Then, if the camshafts line up, everything is in place.
Any idea what size bolt or drill bit I could use in the block if I havnt got the correct pin?
The locking pin I have seems to be M8 going to a 5mm pin with the thread being 12mm long and the pin 26mm long.
Is this what I should do if my timing belt is skipping?
Yes, if your timing belt skips you should replace it as soon as possible.