Good presentation on timing gear alignment. NOTICE: Anyone doing this job should also install the timing chain tensioner. Most 4.3's do not come from the factory with them but the tensioner was developed by GM to address a random knocking noise caused by slack in the chain that may cause the counter balance shaft to randomly get off time. It's a cheap part, do it. The mark on the distributor is NOT #4. It is a dedicated timing mark for #1 on the 4.3 V-6. If you look inside the distributor cap you can trace the #1 circuit path strait across the inside of the cap. It is very unusual design, fools many initially, myself included. Once you know intent of the marks, this is probably one of the easiest distributors to get timed right. But you must be certain you are TDC on #1. What I do is set it on #1 before removing the balancer/timing cover and distributor, then DO NOT turn the motor again until timing cover/balancer and distributor are reinstalled and checked for proper timing. You need the motor on #1 TDC to set the timing marks on the timing chain anyway. Also, the oil pump drive is no different than all Gen 1 small block Chevy's. If you get the distributor timed into the cam gear right (be certain), you can just turn the motor over and the oil pump drive will fall into place and the distributor will drop down the final 1/4 inch or so.
@@treysberta The best advice I can give you is to buy a Haynes manual. Surprisingly, they explain it very well. $15. They come in handy now and then anyway.
The mark for a V6 vortec is the number 6 not a 4 not a 1 but the number 6 and on a V8 vortec it is a number 8 . It's not rocket science . This dude must be a pot head and gets distracted very easily you made it way more complicated than it is. You have given ppl so much wrong info on here seriously this video needs to be deleted because it's not that complicated. Was no reason to pull the chain cover all you had to do is get tdc and put the distributor in on number 6 the mark on the distributor and baam simple. This is however the perfect video to teach ppl that if you have no common sense and are distracted easily. Do not work on your shit and then make a video like this that is going to cause alot of people to spend sensless money.
I’ve already figured out GM engineers smoke weed and probably drink when they design this stuff AND there must be a class to be the bracket guy and create brackets for everything. I changed the intake gaskets and when I set TDC and the noticed the distributor is set Left if TDC. Does not have 6 or 8 on the triangles but “easy” to figure out. Quadruple checked and yes it’s off…. except for looking at the reluctor wheel everything lines up on the distributor , dots etc and noticed it moves up and down more than I like but it works ….EXCEPT if set on TDC. Engine is setcon TDC second mark - Quadraticly checked… Turned over smooth but no start or even flicker of start when set at TDC on distributor but does try when offset left to the next line on the rotor. Tried it 15 ways to Sunday - - - even tho I don’t know what that means but it sucked. Didn’t help that spider injectors suck too but after putting it back to offset its almost starting…. I think my Mopar engineers smoke too but I don’t they drink cuz there stupid stuff isn’t as bad as gm
For novices, just because the #1 piston is up, doesn't mean you are on #1 firing position. You could just as easily be at Top Dead Center (TDC) for the exhaust stroke, so you could be 180 degrees out when you install you distributor. This gentleman had his valves loosened up so he could not look at the rocker arms and see if they were both closed (#1 firing position) or the exhaust valve open (#1 on exhaust stroke 180degrees out). He didn't have his timing chain installed. AND, #1 one were it comes out of the distributor cap on top is not were you line up the rotor when you install the distributor. Look at the inside of the cap and you will see that the #1 contact point for the rotor is on the opposite side of the cap. Further, when you install the distributor and you are sure you caught the right tooth on the cam gear, you can rotate the engine and somewhere along that turn, the oil pump drive will line up and the distributor will slip down just like on all Gen 1 Chevy V-8's, big and small blocks. Make sure the distributor is all the way down before attempting to start the engine. It is crucial to get the distributor timed with the camshaft exactly right because the computer controls the timing on 96 and up versions of this engine. The Haynes book for S-10's describes in good detail how to install the distributor (for once). Guess how I know, LoL. I replaced my distributor with a new, all aluminum one from Summit and it works great. It came with a new ignition module and the price was right also. Take your time and get this right, it's a little weird compared to a 350 Chevy but not that hard once you get a good idea of what is going on with that distributor cap.
I had the P0300 random misfire code. My stock Delco plastic distributor was shot. It had lateral (side) play in the shaft. There is cheaper distributors out there but the Summit is the best value I found. It comes with a good brass contact cap & rotor and an aluminum distributor body. I replaced my old distributor with the Summit also and it runs fantastic. I think the cap it comes with is a DUI, Davis Unified Ignition. I have a DUI high output coil on my Explorer. That thing throws some spark. Gained a couple mpg after putting it on. They make some quality stuff. My Explorer is a 93 auto trans. Its always got crummy mpg I put manual hubs on too,probably gained 1mpg from that. Now it gets a whopping 14mpg around town & 18 on the highway.
@@Thundarr995 Glad the new dist. is working for you. Don't know why anyone would get a new composite body one. You found a manual hub kit for a 93'? Who makes it? My 03 S-10 used to get 17+ around town. Now it's getting just under 15. It runs like a top, has new injectors and Denso Iridium spark plugs with MSD ignition coil. None of that stuff helped with MPG but it runs like new and has great compression. I bought a back pressure gauge to check the status of the Cat's but I'm starting to wonder if they are just putting more damn alcohol in the gas. Even so, I have the pink slip. I can buy a lot of gas for what it would cost me to replace the S-10. I am the original owner and it is a ZR/2.
BTW- You are 100% CORRECT on the Distributor Rotor " Reluctor Wheel ". We bought one recently and it wasn't aligned correctly :((((. We use the OLD PART, follow that and " Re-Pressed " it accordingly. You have to be-careful taking out the " Pressed Reluctor Wheel ", but it can be done :D
Okay i know this video is 3 years old but you may have just solved my problem my distrubtor went bad so i replaced it the wires whole 9 yards and havent been able to get the p1345 code to go away so imma try it out and hope this fixes my issue
You can bypass removing the valve cover to.relieve the resistence .by using a oil filter remover tool..or simple use a chain itself since the.engine.is.a.non interfirence ....obviously setting the cam marks first and.crank last by itself
Dude.....its not timed off of #4....its timed off of #1 which if you look at the distributor cap you will see that the number 1 pole goes all the way across the cap, inside the cap, and is positioned approximately where the number 4 wire plugs into the cap. IT IS TIMED OFF NUMBER ONE!!!
This is probably the issue I'm having with my truck. These 4.3s are so complicated and I can't find a mechanic to actually fix it the right way. I wish I could work on my own truck but I have health problems.
When using a screw driver to turn the oil pump, it helps to NOT use one that has a magnetic tip. I was just out setting my distributor and my screw driver kept catching on the engine block and it was hard to keep it centered.
No need to turn the oil pump shaft at all unless you are priming a new engine. Once the distributor gear is engaged with the cam gear, you can bump the engine around until the dist. drops all the way down on the oil pump shaft.
@ posse rush, Cam Gear is out 180 degrees can I remove the gear off the balance shaft and pull the distributer and freely rotate the Cam Gear to correct timing mark?
Just pull out the distributor rotate the shift 180° and put it right back in that is essentially doing the same thing just easier! Just remember if you ever pull off the timing cover your timing marks will not lineup they will be one 180° out
That would have been easier, was already in there though replacing a leaking timing cover, so... Now dealing with a cranks no spark (obviously no start) testing the ICM today as I’ve already tested the CPS. Thanks for the info though 👍🏼 never know might come into this in another vehicle.
@@NeverEnoughPyro40 its 180° out bc its pointing to no 4 plug dude You are to set the crank and cam so they line up 6 and 12 o'clock. Don't worry about #1 TDC. The crank has a key on it and the cam has a specific bolt pattern to ensure they are timed. You really only need to worry about #1 TDC when installing a distributor if equipped. This way you get the #1 plug to fire on TDC Due to having the crank key way and bolt pattern, it allows you to only align them one way and you need to have them lined up when removing the chain and sprockets and then do not make a crank or cam rotation with the chain off or you will be out of time and the engine will be damaged. It is okay if they move a little because you can just line them back up but if they make a rotation then you will be in trouble 🌟Line up the crank gear timing straight up, line up the cam gear timig mark straight down (so the marks are closest to each other, or facing each other). the distributor will be firing #4. Install the cam sprocket, timing chain, and timing chain cover. Make sure the dot on the crankshaft gear is pointing towards the center of the Camshaft gear bolt. Make sure the hole in the Camshaft gear is pointing towards the center of the crankshaft. Be sure to remove the nail holding the chain tensoner back, before installing the timing cover The round hole in the cam gear is the alignment mark 💥 On 4.3 litre engines it may be necessary to remove the distributor and elongate the hold down bolt hole to allow for adjustment. The hold down is fixed to the distributor. In many cases the adjustment is wrong from factory. Inspection 1. With ignition off, connect scan tool to Data Link Connector (DLC). Start engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. 2. Increase engine speed to more than 1000 RPM. Using scan tool, monitor CAM RETARD OFFSET. If camshaft retard indicates zero degrees plus or minus 2 degrees, distributor is properly adjusted. Procedure is complete. If camshaft retard is not zero degrees plus or minus 2 degrees, see ADJUSTMENT. Adjustment 1. Turn ignition off. Slightly loosen distributor hold-down bolt. Start engine. Increase engine speed to more than 1000 RPM. Using scan tool, monitor CAM RETARD OFFSET. If camshaft retard indicates zero degrees plus or minus 2 degrees, distributor is properly adjusted. Procedure is complete. If camshaft retard is not zero degrees plus or minus 2 degrees, see ADJUSTMENT. Adjustment 1. Turn ignition off. Slightly loosen distributor hold-down bolt. Start engine. Increase engine speed to more than 1000 RPM. 2. Using scan tool, monitor CAM RETARD OFFSET. To adjust for a negative reading, rotate distributor counterclockwise. To adjust for a positive reading, rotate distributor clockwise. 3. Continue to adjust as necessary until zero degrees plus or minus 2 degrees is attained. Turn ignition off. Tighten distributor hold-down bolt to 25 ft. Lbs. (34 N.M). Start engine. Increase engine speed to more than 1000 RPM. Using scan tool, verify camshaft retard offset adjustment. NOTE: Camshaft retard offset reading will not be accurate with engine speed less than 1000 RPM. Page 1 of 1 😁
@@rubbermallet3873180 off is what it looks like to me. I'm working on a 4.3 going in a boat. No reluctor, no sensor in tc cover. Doing it old school way with #1 set at TDC. Timing will be adjusted after it us started... wish me luck.
I put a new distributor in my 95 GMC Jimmy and it wasn't perfect line up but I said fuck it and just put it in I got everthing on right started started and ran normally I didn't clear the old engine code yet so It was still on. I cleared the code and went out for a drive and it was normal parked it came out the next day started it and a check engine light came on but was still running fine. Any suggestions on what could cause the light to come back on Also I can't scan the codes because it has an obd2 port with an obd1 computer which requires the gm tech 2 to scan it and I don't have one
So can you get the pan off without pulling the motor? I watched 2 videos of yours and you have not said the answer to that question. Another thing, you sure waste a lot of time talking about stuff that has nothing to do with the job.
@@dukezity5226 Thanks Duke. I would have seen that once I started the job but havent yet. This guy is frustrating how he babbles. Also I added another comment about his statement that its timed off #4.
Good presentation on timing gear alignment. NOTICE: Anyone doing this job should also install the timing chain tensioner. Most 4.3's do not come from the factory with them but the tensioner was developed by GM to address a random knocking noise caused by slack in the chain that may cause the counter balance shaft to randomly get off time. It's a cheap part, do it.
The mark on the distributor is NOT #4. It is a dedicated timing mark for #1 on the 4.3 V-6. If you look inside the distributor cap you can trace the #1 circuit path strait across the inside of the cap. It is very unusual design, fools many initially, myself included. Once you know intent of the marks, this is probably one of the easiest distributors to get timed right. But you must be certain you are TDC on #1.
What I do is set it on #1 before removing the balancer/timing cover and distributor, then DO NOT turn the motor again until timing cover/balancer and distributor are reinstalled and checked for proper timing. You need the motor on #1 TDC to set the timing marks on the timing chain anyway.
Also, the oil pump drive is no different than all Gen 1 small block Chevy's. If you get the distributor timed into the cam gear right (be certain), you can just turn the motor over and the oil pump drive will fall into place and the distributor will drop down the final 1/4 inch or so.
Rotor bbutton is to be saet on 6 or 4... I thought 6
P
@@treysberta The best advice I can give you is to buy a Haynes manual. Surprisingly, they explain it very well. $15.
They come in handy now and then anyway.
The mark for a V6 vortec is the number 6 not a 4 not a 1 but the number 6 and on a V8 vortec it is a number 8 . It's not rocket science . This dude must be a pot head and gets distracted very easily you made it way more complicated than it is. You have given ppl so much wrong info on here seriously this video needs to be deleted because it's not that complicated. Was no reason to pull the chain cover all you had to do is get tdc and put the distributor in on number 6 the mark on the distributor and baam simple. This is however the perfect video to teach ppl that if you have no common sense and are distracted easily. Do not work on your shit and then make a video like this that is going to cause alot of people to spend sensless money.
I’ve already figured out GM engineers smoke weed and probably drink when they design this stuff AND there must be a class to be the bracket guy and create brackets for everything.
I changed the intake gaskets and when I set TDC and the noticed the distributor is set Left if TDC.
Does not have 6 or 8 on the triangles but “easy” to figure out.
Quadruple checked and yes it’s off…. except for looking at the reluctor wheel everything lines up on the distributor , dots etc and noticed it moves up and down more than I like but it works ….EXCEPT if set on TDC.
Engine is setcon TDC second mark - Quadraticly checked…
Turned over smooth but no start or even flicker of start when set at TDC on distributor but does try when offset left to the next line on the rotor.
Tried it 15 ways to Sunday - - - even tho I don’t know what that means but it sucked.
Didn’t help that spider injectors suck too but after putting it back to offset its almost starting….
I think my Mopar engineers smoke too but I don’t they drink cuz there stupid stuff isn’t as bad as gm
For novices, just because the #1 piston is up, doesn't mean you are on #1 firing position. You could just as easily be at Top Dead Center (TDC) for the exhaust stroke, so you could be 180 degrees out when you install you distributor. This gentleman had his valves loosened up so he could not look at the rocker arms and see if they were both closed (#1 firing position) or the exhaust valve open (#1 on exhaust stroke 180degrees out). He didn't have his timing chain installed.
AND, #1 one were it comes out of the distributor cap on top is not were you line up the rotor when you install the distributor. Look at the inside of the cap and you will see that the #1 contact point for the rotor is on the opposite side of the cap.
Further, when you install the distributor and you are sure you caught the right tooth on the cam gear, you can rotate the engine and somewhere along that turn, the oil pump drive will line up and the distributor will slip down just like on all Gen 1 Chevy V-8's, big and small blocks. Make sure the distributor is all the way down before attempting to start the engine.
It is crucial to get the distributor timed with the camshaft exactly right because the computer controls the timing on 96 and up versions of this engine. The Haynes book for S-10's describes in good detail how to install the distributor (for once). Guess how I know, LoL.
I replaced my distributor with a new, all aluminum one from Summit and it works great. It came with a new ignition module and the price was right also.
Take your time and get this right, it's a little weird compared to a 350 Chevy but not that hard once you get a good idea of what is going on with that distributor cap.
I had the P0300 random misfire code. My stock Delco plastic distributor was shot. It had lateral (side) play in the shaft. There is cheaper distributors out there but the Summit is the best value I found. It comes with a good brass contact cap & rotor and an aluminum distributor body. I replaced my old distributor with the Summit also and it runs fantastic. I think the cap it comes with is a DUI, Davis Unified Ignition. I have a DUI high output coil on my Explorer. That thing throws some spark. Gained a couple mpg after putting it on. They make some quality stuff. My Explorer is a 93 auto trans. Its always got crummy mpg I put manual hubs on too,probably gained 1mpg from that. Now it gets a whopping 14mpg around town & 18 on the highway.
@@Thundarr995 Glad the new dist. is working for you. Don't know why anyone would get a new composite body one.
You found a manual hub kit for a 93'? Who makes it?
My 03 S-10 used to get 17+ around town. Now it's getting just under 15. It runs like a top, has new injectors and Denso Iridium spark plugs with MSD ignition coil. None of that stuff helped with MPG but it runs like new and has great compression. I bought a back pressure gauge to check the status of the Cat's but I'm starting to wonder if they are just putting more damn alcohol in the gas. Even so, I have the pink slip. I can buy a lot of gas for what it would cost me to replace the S-10. I am the original owner and it is a ZR/2.
Hey thanks man! This was exactly the video needed.
BTW- You are 100% CORRECT on the Distributor Rotor " Reluctor Wheel ". We bought one recently and it wasn't aligned correctly :((((. We use the OLD PART, follow that and " Re-Pressed " it accordingly. You have to be-careful taking out the " Pressed Reluctor Wheel ", but it can be done :D
Okay i know this video is 3 years old but you may have just solved my problem my distrubtor went bad so i replaced it the wires whole 9 yards and havent been able to get the p1345 code to go away so imma try it out and hope this fixes my issue
Thanks for you honesty!! Helpful video!!
ironically, I was just under the hood of my 4.3L, pulled off cap and rotor and whadya know! Reluctor wheel was backwards! Thanks!
This video was great, but that lawn mower part got me haha... thanks for the video brother!
You can bypass removing the valve cover to.relieve the resistence .by using a oil filter remover tool..or simple use a chain itself since the.engine.is.a.non interfirence ....obviously setting the cam marks first and.crank last by itself
On your John Deere, you are skillful. You can easily fabricate or even using older parts or weld them to fix :))))
Dude.....its not timed off of #4....its timed off of #1 which if you look at the distributor cap you will see that the number 1 pole goes all the way across the cap, inside the cap, and is positioned approximately where the number 4 wire plugs into the cap. IT IS TIMED OFF NUMBER ONE!!!
It took me about a half hour to realize this for myself. Why did GM have to make the caps this way instead of having them straight up. smh
@@austinpayne9123veey simple - bc they're the fabricators so they can do it dude 😵
Good information, very well explained.
This is probably the issue I'm having with my truck. These 4.3s are so complicated and I can't find a mechanic to actually fix it the right way. I wish I could work on my own truck but I have health problems.
When using a screw driver to turn the oil pump, it helps to NOT use one that has a magnetic tip. I was just out setting my distributor and my screw driver kept catching on the engine block and it was hard to keep it centered.
No need to turn the oil pump shaft at all unless you are priming a new engine. Once the distributor gear is engaged with the cam gear, you can bump the engine around until the dist. drops all the way down on the oil pump shaft.
I had an old distributor that I cut the top off of after I removed the shaft. I then had a perfect tool for priming the engine oil with a drill.
Will that mark on the distributor and notch is that #1 wont it be pointing to the number 1 cyl when timing it
@ posse rush, Cam Gear is out 180 degrees can I remove the gear off the balance shaft and pull the distributer and freely rotate the Cam Gear to correct timing mark?
Just pull out the distributor rotate the shift 180° and put it right back in that is essentially doing the same thing just easier! Just remember if you ever pull off the timing cover your timing marks will not lineup they will be one 180° out
That would have been easier, was already in there though replacing a leaking timing cover, so... Now dealing with a cranks no spark (obviously no start) testing the ICM today as I’ve already tested the CPS. Thanks for the info though 👍🏼 never know might come into this in another vehicle.
@@NeverEnoughPyro40 its 180° out bc its pointing to no 4 plug dude
You are to set the crank and cam so they line up 6 and 12 o'clock.
Don't worry about #1 TDC.
The crank has a key on it and the cam has a specific bolt pattern to ensure they are timed.
You really only need to worry about #1 TDC when installing a distributor if equipped. This way you get the #1 plug to fire on TDC
Due to having the crank key way and bolt pattern, it allows you to only align them one way and you need to have them lined up when removing the chain and sprockets and then do not make a crank or cam rotation with the chain off or you will be out of time and the engine will be damaged. It is okay if they move a little because you can just line them back up but if they make a rotation then you will be in trouble
🌟Line up the crank gear timing straight up, line up the cam gear timig mark straight down (so the marks are closest to each other, or facing each other). the distributor will be firing #4.
Install the cam sprocket, timing chain, and timing chain cover. Make sure the dot on the crankshaft gear is pointing towards the center of the Camshaft gear bolt. Make sure the hole in the Camshaft gear is pointing towards the center of the crankshaft. Be sure to remove the nail holding the chain tensoner back, before
installing the timing cover The round hole in the cam gear is the alignment mark
💥 On 4.3 litre engines it may be necessary to remove the distributor and elongate the hold down bolt hole to allow for adjustment. The hold down is fixed to the distributor. In many cases the adjustment is wrong from factory.
Inspection 1. With ignition off, connect scan tool to Data Link Connector (DLC). Start engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. 2. Increase engine speed to more than 1000 RPM. Using scan tool, monitor CAM RETARD OFFSET. If camshaft retard indicates zero degrees plus or minus 2 degrees, distributor is properly adjusted. Procedure is complete. If camshaft retard is not zero degrees plus or minus 2 degrees, see ADJUSTMENT.
Adjustment
1. Turn ignition off. Slightly loosen distributor hold-down bolt. Start engine. Increase engine speed to more than 1000 RPM. Using scan tool, monitor CAM RETARD OFFSET. If camshaft retard indicates zero degrees plus or minus 2 degrees, distributor is properly adjusted. Procedure is complete. If camshaft retard is not zero degrees plus or minus 2 degrees, see ADJUSTMENT. Adjustment 1. Turn ignition off. Slightly loosen distributor hold-down bolt. Start engine. Increase engine speed to more than 1000 RPM.
2. Using scan tool, monitor CAM RETARD OFFSET. To adjust for a negative reading, rotate distributor counterclockwise.
To adjust for a positive reading, rotate distributor clockwise.
3. Continue to adjust as necessary until zero degrees plus or minus 2 degrees is attained.
Turn ignition off.
Tighten distributor hold-down bolt to 25 ft. Lbs. (34 N.M).
Start engine.
Increase engine speed to more than 1000 RPM.
Using scan tool, verify camshaft retard offset adjustment.
NOTE: Camshaft retard offset reading will not be accurate with engine speed less than 1000 RPM. Page 1 of 1
😁
@@rubbermallet3873180 off is what it looks like to me. I'm working on a 4.3 going in a boat. No reluctor, no sensor in tc cover. Doing it old school way with #1 set at TDC. Timing will be adjusted after it us started... wish me luck.
Whatever your selling , I ain't buying.
I just did gears and chain kit, without dropping pan. 2000 s10
How did you do that?
How?
Good Video !!!! Hahahahahaha, someone is bugging you :D
How do I put the chain on
Over 247,000 02 trail blazer, trans. finally gave up.
I put a new distributor in my 95 GMC Jimmy and it wasn't perfect line up but I said fuck it and just put it in
I got everthing on right started started and ran normally I didn't clear the old engine code yet so It was still on. I cleared the code and went out for a drive and it was normal parked it came out the next day started it and a check engine light came on but was still running fine. Any suggestions on what could cause the light to come back on
Also I can't scan the codes because it has an obd2 port with an obd1 computer which requires the gm tech 2 to scan it and I don't have one
dont need one to set up the timing v8 or v6 have two triangles on dist body and rolled pin on gear line em up start it up no need for scanner for that
Thank you sir
Jd new junk!!
So can you get the pan off without pulling the motor? I watched 2 videos of yours and you have not said the answer to that question.
Another thing, you sure waste a lot of time talking about stuff that has nothing to do with the job.
@@dukezity5226 Thanks Duke. I would have seen that once I started the job but havent yet. This guy is frustrating how he babbles. Also I added another comment about his statement that its timed off #4.
It was the bee for me lol he wanted to throw you off lol
Is an 2007 4.3 much different?