Both marks on your crank will be lined up one on top (or the last mark on your crankshaft) ( and one on bottom first mark) turn the crankshaft by hand you can bump it over by turning the engine over to get it close but when it’s close turn it by hand to finish lining it up . Remember go past the first mark on your crank shaft and line it up with the second mark that’s where you need to be to remove the distributor . First mark will line up at the bottom as well . Double check and make sure before removing the distributor. Hope this helps someone in the future . Also if it’s crank no start I replaced all kinds of stuff but it only needed the ICM module that goes on the ignition coil .
The mark shown at 2:41, is the mark you need to line up with the indicator on the timing cover from above. With that mark lined up, if you look from underneath, you'll see the other mark on Balancer lined up with an alternate mark on the timing cover only visible from below. From this position you are either on #1firning position or 180 degrees out. If you install the dist with the rotor lined up with the 6 mark and it doesn't start (probably backfire/spit), turn the motor with a wrench back to the original position you installed the dist with rotor at the 6, then pull the dist. Turn the engine by wrench one complete turn, make sure the marks are lined up, reinstall the dist with the rotor pointing to the 6. You are in time.
This info is exactly what I been looking for. No video have shown why my truck spots and spuders thank you for that. 3hrs of watching videos to have 1 comment tell me my issue. Great information
For anyone wanting to know how to do this. Forget about the timing mark on the front pulley. Remove spark plug on #1 cylinder (driver's side, front of motor) and put your finger over the plug hole while someone "bumps" the ignition. Stop when you feel your finger being pushed out (don't crank much at a time). Turn the pulley clockwise (ratchet and socket) while holding a long screwdriver in the plug hole. Bring the piston up to top dead center (rotate back and forth once you're close to really zero in on tdc). Drop the distributor in its hole putting the rotor on the 6 mark that he has painted on his and making sure the mounting bracket is lined up with the bolt hole on the intake (don't worry about the oil pump drive). Once you think you have it in the correct gear tooth, bump the starter again while holding down on the distributor and as the rotor spins around, it will locate the oil pump drive on its own and drop down completely. Double check everything with #1 tdc again, if you wish. That's all you need to do. Timing is meant not to be adjusted, so all you have to worry about is being on the correct tooth when you drop the distributor in place.
So I basically tried this today over and over and I can’t get mine to fire up. I’m using the stupid screwdriver in the #1 plug slot and having someone else check it while it turn the crankshaft. We got it to where we think its TDC. The marks on the balancer don’t line up though. But then we drop the dist. Into place and make sure it’s point at the 6. But it won’t fire up. We have also used the screwdriver to turn the oil pump thing before the dist goes in, but your bumping method seems to work fine too. But it still won’t fire. I don’t get it.
I was just working in my chevy S-10 doing that. I ended up having to remove the timing cover off. (Having the oil pan off helps a lot. The oil pan helps keep in place.) I lined up the dots on the gears, the lines on the pulley wheel with the motor, and the distributor rod fell in place really easy, once everything was in place. I still don't know if I did it correctly. I will refer to the Hane's manual when I get back to working on it.
I also am having problems with my 1990 4.3, although my GMC Sonoma 4x4 is a 1998. It took me along time to figure that one out! Anyway, GM is some kind of screwed up to start with! With all the differences in the 4.3 over the years. To try and help you with your timing problem you might want to see if you have two timing marks on your hormonic balancer. If so, use the second one to set your timing. I use the balloon method of finding TDC. Just use a compression tester hose in the #1 spark plug hole and bring the #1 piston up all the way. You might want to play with this a few times to be exact, but as you come around to TDC watch the peek of the balloon and when you think it's about to just pass the TDC mark, stop!
If im not mistaken from all the videos and reading and pictures that ive come across. You want the spark plugs to spark a little before TDC so maybe the two lines indicate the curve for when the piston is in the right spot for ignition
So was the cause of the 'marks not lining up' a timing chain jump (as suggested by catfisher420)? Did you ignore the marks and get it running right, or check/replace timing chain??
Had issues with mine. I rebuilt the engine and lined up timing chain and had engine at TDC. After installing cover and balancer I noticed it was off from Marks on the outside of the cover. The runber on the balancer was worn out enough to let it shift. I bought a new one and put then side by side and sure enough the old one had shifted. That one looks worn out.
Brother, I am so glad for this video. I've experienced the same thing, and I was trying to figure out how tdc wouldn't match harmonic balancer for a while. Now I know. Thank you, very much.
Pass the first timing mark,use the 2nd mark. You'll know if it's timed right if your rotor on the distributor is pointing at a little tiny 6 on the distributor housing. Almost need a magnifying glass to see it. If the rotor is pointing towards the firewall,spin the engine around 1 more time. The rotor should be pointed towards the passenger side fender. Look really close and you should see the 6. 1996- 1998 4.3L. It's probably the same for 99 -04. The rotor needs to be pointed almost exactly at the 6. It will run if it's off,but it won't run right and you'll be getting crappy mileage and low hp. Engine light will probably come on. It may not though if it's not too far off.
TDC with the piston #1 at its highest point and lining up the both marks on the crankshaft pulley would get your timing set. After you’ve done that you drop in your distributor with the thing on the rotor lines up with the 6.
Hopefully this is what’s wrong with mine lined up everything, balancer distributor and rotor and the thing doesn’t start. 😢gonna check tdc from spark plug hole see if the marks are true or not.
All engineers must smoke weed but Chevy engineers must smoke Good weed cuz they make some really screwed up stuff. Example is a distributor cap should actually have the rotor point at the #1 cyl instead of between 2 & 6 at a triangle marked 6. Don’t do drugs….. HOWEVER I’m working on a 4.3 with 383,000 miles so it’s forgiving to be off a bit. The LEFT timing mark …. (Technically could be called the right if sitting in the drivers seat or second either way depending on when you start counting) …. is to see from the top front of the motor which should be the only one in existence however when lined up on this truck it is NOT at TDC and the distributor does NOT line up to the 6 triangle on the distributor so I second another comment to ignore the marks somewhat and focus on the #1 cylinder actually being at TDC through the spark plug hole. (TRUST me I’ve tried) I don’t use the starter to bump anything as you have no control over how much it moves. A wrench and socket work fine and all you have to remove is the fan shroud which is the one good design I can think of on this 1999 silverado made with a 2001 fuse box and a 1999 fuse box cover. Everything else seems to have been designed for 8 ft tall skinny stretchy people or midgets to reach. Such fun….
These are screwy to set not straight forward can’t remember how I did it but there is a video on how it’s done ! Also there is more than one mark on the balancer
Don't even worry about the oil pump drive, it will line up and drop right in as soon as you bump the motor over. Unlikely that you moved the outer ring removing the Harmonic Balancer. Line up the balancer mark with timing cover mark and drop in dist so that the conductor on the rotor is pointing at the mark (6). You'll notice as dist goes in the rotor will turn as it engages cam gear so compensate for that rotation. You should be with in a tooth on dist gear of where you want to be or on the money. Bast practice if you are going to remove the dist is to put it on #1 firing position before to start taking things apart and then disconnect battery cable. Don't turn the motor. Thumb over spark plug hole only gets you into ball park of #1 and screw driver in the hole might get you to the infield but you can still be off by a few degrees either way. Now you are forced to trial and error but it's still doable, just more nuisance.
Both marks on your crank will be lined up one on top (or the last mark on your crankshaft) ( and one on bottom first mark) turn the crankshaft by hand you can bump it over by turning the engine over to get it close but when it’s close turn it by hand to finish lining it up . Remember go past the first mark on your crank shaft and line it up with the second mark that’s where you need to be to remove the distributor . First mark will line up at the bottom as well . Double check and make sure before removing the distributor. Hope this helps someone in the future . Also if it’s crank no start I replaced all kinds of stuff but it only needed the ICM module that goes on the ignition coil .
The mark shown at 2:41, is the mark you need to line up with the indicator on the timing cover from above. With that mark lined up, if you look from underneath, you'll see the other mark on Balancer lined up with an alternate mark on the timing cover only visible from below. From this position you are either on #1firning position or 180 degrees out.
If you install the dist with the rotor lined up with the 6 mark and it doesn't start (probably backfire/spit), turn the motor with a wrench back to the original position you installed the dist with rotor at the 6, then pull the dist. Turn the engine by wrench one complete turn, make sure the marks are lined up, reinstall the dist with the rotor pointing to the 6. You are in time.
What if your 6 MARK is underneath the rotor and spins with it ? What is the 6 mark? Help
This info is exactly what I been looking for. No video have shown why my truck spots and spuders thank you for that. 3hrs of watching videos to have 1 comment tell me my issue. Great information
@@rWirthlin1983 oh so you were not on the compression stroke the first time right
I can't check the timing on my 4 ,3v6
I can't ketch timing on my chevy silverado 1500 4.3L 2005
For anyone wanting to know how to do this. Forget about the timing mark on the front pulley. Remove spark plug on #1 cylinder (driver's side, front of motor) and put your finger over the plug hole while someone "bumps" the ignition. Stop when you feel your finger being pushed out (don't crank much at a time). Turn the pulley clockwise (ratchet and socket) while holding a long screwdriver in the plug hole. Bring the piston up to top dead center (rotate back and forth once you're close to really zero in on tdc). Drop the distributor in its hole putting the rotor on the 6 mark that he has painted on his and making sure the mounting bracket is lined up with the bolt hole on the intake (don't worry about the oil pump drive). Once you think you have it in the correct gear tooth, bump the starter again while holding down on the distributor and as the rotor spins around, it will locate the oil pump drive on its own and drop down completely. Double check everything with #1 tdc again, if you wish. That's all you need to do. Timing is meant not to be adjusted, so all you have to worry about is being on the correct tooth when you drop the distributor in place.
So I basically tried this today over and over and I can’t get mine to fire up. I’m using the stupid screwdriver in the #1 plug slot and having someone else check it while it turn the crankshaft. We got it to where we think its TDC. The marks on the balancer don’t line up though. But then we drop the dist. Into place and make sure it’s point at the 6. But it won’t fire up. We have also used the screwdriver to turn the oil pump thing before the dist goes in, but your bumping method seems to work fine too. But it still won’t fire. I don’t get it.
@@signedupfordoconly4275 You didn't say in your post (don't take offense), but you found TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke, right?
There are two TDC's. One is compression, and one is exhaust. Again, don't take offense.
@@kellyappel3015 we thought so. We were using the screwdriver trick to feel the #1 cylinder. Not sure if that’s the only way to do it though.
@@kellyappel3015 hmmm how to know the difference?
I was just working in my chevy S-10 doing that. I ended up having to remove the timing cover off. (Having the oil pan off helps a lot. The oil pan helps keep in place.) I lined up the dots on the gears, the lines on the pulley wheel with the motor, and the distributor rod fell in place really easy, once everything was in place. I still don't know if I did it correctly. I will refer to the Hane's manual when I get back to working on it.
This video helped me so much on finding TDC, great help thanks so much!!!
Thanks for the help, i was putting it towards cylinder one then i found your video...thank you sir!
I also am having problems with my 1990 4.3, although my GMC Sonoma 4x4 is a 1998. It took me along time to figure that one out! Anyway, GM is some kind of screwed up to start with! With all the differences in the 4.3 over the years. To try and help you with your timing problem you might want to see if you have two timing marks on your hormonic balancer. If so, use the second one to set your timing. I use the balloon method of finding TDC. Just use a compression tester hose in the #1 spark plug hole and bring the #1 piston up all the way. You might want to play with this a few times to be exact, but as you come around to TDC watch the peek of the balloon and when you think it's about to just pass the TDC mark, stop!
I'm having the same issue on my silverado 4.3. Video was very helpful. Thank you.
I think there is a block style mark on the timing cover on right side about "2 o'clock" if facing the cover
Sometimes the harmonic balancer moves out of place because of the gasket that holds all in place gets old and starts to spin by itself.
Had this exact same issue timing marks on the balancer totally off, definitely check true TDC if you suspect this phenomena.
If im not mistaken from all the videos and reading and pictures that ive come across. You want the spark plugs to spark a little before TDC so maybe the two lines indicate the curve for when the piston is in the right spot for ignition
So was the cause of the 'marks not lining up' a timing chain jump (as suggested by catfisher420)? Did you ignore the marks and get it running right, or check/replace timing chain??
Had issues with mine. I rebuilt the engine and lined up timing chain and had engine at TDC. After installing cover and balancer I noticed it was off from Marks on the outside of the cover. The runber on the balancer was worn out enough to let it shift. I bought a new one and put then side by side and sure enough the old one had shifted. That one looks worn out.
This is exactly the problem. That part is a wear part that people don't think about.
Brother, I am so glad for this video. I've experienced the same thing, and I was trying to figure out how tdc wouldn't match harmonic balancer for a while. Now I know. Thank you, very much.
You can be on a compression stroke or exhaust stroke. So it's probably 180° out. Just a thought.
These vortec distributors are a breeze to drop in, very simple versus the old sbc distributor.
You need to replace the harmonic balancer. It's failing (outer ring slipping) and that's why the marks are off from where they should be.
That's exactly it. The harmonic balancer does wear out.
First signing lineup a line with the other line. Then line the mark with the line with other line. The marked line with line and lie in the mark line
Pass the first timing mark,use the 2nd mark. You'll know if it's timed right if your rotor on the distributor is pointing at a little tiny 6 on the distributor housing. Almost need a magnifying glass to see it. If the rotor is pointing towards the firewall,spin the engine around 1 more time. The rotor should be pointed towards the passenger side fender. Look really close and you should see the 6. 1996- 1998 4.3L. It's probably the same for 99 -04. The rotor needs to be pointed almost exactly at the 6. It will run if it's off,but it won't run right and you'll be getting crappy mileage and low hp. Engine light will probably come on. It may not though if it's not too far off.
TDC with the piston #1 at its highest point and lining up the both marks on the crankshaft pulley would get your timing set. After you’ve done that you drop in your distributor with the thing on the rotor lines up with the 6.
Did you ever figure out this issue? Mine is lining up the same way
Hopefully this is what’s wrong with mine lined up everything, balancer distributor and rotor and the thing doesn’t start. 😢gonna check tdc from spark plug hole see if the marks are true or not.
You ever figure it out..I got .ine at 6 and balancer on 2nd line still no crank.
The harmonic balancer has two notches on it
I didnt catch the solution.
Did you give one?
what was the issue?
All engineers must smoke weed but Chevy engineers must smoke Good weed cuz they make some really screwed up stuff.
Example is a distributor cap should actually have the rotor point at the #1 cyl instead of between 2 & 6 at a triangle marked 6.
Don’t do drugs…..
HOWEVER I’m working on a 4.3 with 383,000 miles so it’s forgiving to be off a bit.
The LEFT timing mark …. (Technically could be called the right if sitting in the drivers seat or second either way depending on when you start counting) …. is to see from the top front of the motor which should be the only one in existence however when lined up on this truck it is NOT at TDC and the distributor does NOT line up to the 6 triangle on the distributor so I second another comment to ignore the marks somewhat and focus on the #1 cylinder actually being at TDC through the spark plug hole. (TRUST me I’ve tried)
I don’t use the starter to bump anything as you have no control over how much it moves.
A wrench and socket work fine and all you have to remove is the fan shroud which is the one good design I can think of on this 1999 silverado made with a 2001 fuse box and a 1999 fuse box cover.
Everything else seems to have been designed for 8 ft tall skinny stretchy people or midgets to reach.
Such fun….
yeah why not just a round cap where fire is direct to the pin instead of traveling from the other side of the cap.....cRaZy!!!!!!!!
These are screwy to set not straight forward can’t remember how I did it but there is a video on how it’s done ! Also there is more than one mark on the balancer
I’m having the same problem
Man. Ima tell all yall. Wtf put rotor on #6 while the engine is at TDC. How the hell is spark gonna get to # if it's firing on cylinder 6?!@%#!
CrAzY for sure but some GM engineer came up with this stupid cap design.
Look under the cap,#1 point is actually on the other side of cap that's why.....I know...stupid
Don't even worry about the oil pump drive, it will line up and drop right in as soon as you bump the motor over.
Unlikely that you moved the outer ring removing the Harmonic Balancer. Line up the balancer mark with timing cover mark and drop in dist so that the conductor on the rotor is pointing at the mark (6). You'll notice as dist goes in the rotor will turn as it engages cam gear so compensate for that rotation. You should be with in a tooth on dist gear of where you want to be or on the money.
Bast practice if you are going to remove the dist is to put it on #1 firing position before to start taking things apart and then disconnect battery cable. Don't turn the motor. Thumb over spark plug hole only gets you into ball park of #1 and screw driver in the hole might get you to the infield but you can still be off by a few degrees either way. Now you are forced to trial and error but it's still doable, just more nuisance.
I couldn't watch your video. You moved a los the camera. Got me dizzy.
Make pictures clear
Ola