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Beginner's Guide to Sewing (Episode 20): Bust Adjustments
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ส.ค. 2024
- Welcome back to the Beginner's Guide to Sewing! In the last episode of our series, we're moving on to bust adjustments. These are crucial to learn, but they are notoriously difficult to teach yourself. That's where we come in.
In episode 20, we go over everything you need to know to do a full bust adjustment and small bust adjustment. We teach you how to do the measurements, calculations, and how to taper the adjustment to match the remaining pattern pieces. We've removed the guesswork so you can easily practice on your own patterns. Your clothing will fit better and look better on your body.
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One of the most clear, easy to understand FBA tutorials. Thank you!
You're very welcome!
Thank you so much for the clear tutorial!
Wow, you're the easiest person to listen to 🎉 Subscribed.
I do believe you have saved my sanity and my very ambitious first formal dress attempt. Thank you! Everything makes more sense now with your excellent instructions.
This bust measurement lessons is so fantastic,I will like to have you as my personal and private teacher,thanks.
Thank you so much. I'm a 34 G so I"m really in need of this
We're glad you enjoyed our video!
So helpful!!!! Thank you... I will promptly watch all other episodes now!
The tutorial was so good but, beyond that, you are just a delightful human being. The highest compliment I could give any tutorial or podcast is that the host is 'palatable', because 95% are UNpalatable. You, my dear, are very much palatable. Love your videos, love your store - you make me want ALL THE FEET, and I barely sew. :)
This is the easiest/clearest FBA video I have come across. Thank you.
Thank you for this excellent tutorial, I was struggling with the fit of my home made clothes as I am only 5ft2in and a UK size 12/14 on the waist and hips but have a 32G bust I was opting for making a much larger size than I needed just to fit my bust into it then it was too big on the waist and hips, with this full bust adjustment I will be able to make my clothes fit properly everywhere!
That was super helpful!!
esp the info on the how pattern companies use different 'cup' sizes.
the calculation was good too - no one else had shown that in the vids ive watched.
Thanks a bunch!!💞
Thank you for such a detailed explanation!!!!
This was the clearest video on FBA I have found! Thank you so much! I've got a 10" difference between my under bust and full bust measurements, so almost every pattern I use I have to adjust. After having grading patterns up a size or two not work, I think this is just what I will have to start doing.
Thank you so much for your kind words! I hope it helps!
Finally someone explained how to figure out how much to adjust the bust ! Thank you. You instructions are so clear and concise. Perfect. Now I’m ready to try a fba!
This was an AMAZING tutorial!!! I've always needed the bust adjustment to patterns but was never brave enough to try it until I watched this video! It worked perfectly!!
Thank you so much. I needed the formula to take a B cup to between a C cup and a D cup.
Thank you! Oftentimes tutorials only cover fba's and not sba's, so this was super! Also the extra details about truing was so good.
Thank you for watching!
Sewing Parts Online
WOW!!! I'm impressed with how clearly and concisely you detailed everything!!! That was really interesting and a fantastic video and I don't even make clothes!!. I primarily quilt but after watching your videos, I may actually try to sew some clothes!!! You are very entertaining and a really great instructor!! I'm looking forward to watching your other videos. Thanks for taking the time to post these!
Wasn't she amazing?! The highest compliment I can pay anyone doing a video or podcast is that they were 'palatable'. Next is that they're a good teacher (if it's a tutorial). Whatever entertaining or jazzy or cute is on top of that, is just a bonus. I did become a fan and I did subscribe! Fabulous. Thank you for teaching this so well. I put off sewing anything for myself with a top half because I didn't want all the muss and fuss over a FBA. Now it makes total sense. I also appreciated you showing how to use the curved ruler for a couple of different things. Thank you, Ms. Sewing Parts Online! XO
PRAISE THE LORD I think you just saved my life. I'm a DDD cup with a small waist and all I want in life is to sew vintage dresses 😂 I've been panicking and really frustrated because I cant ever sew the right size! Thank you so so much for this tutorial. I'm so excited to start working through my stash of patterns and fabrics 😍😍
I really thank you. I'm looking on youtube very long time in order to see this good tutorial.
Thanks again!
This is such a clear explanation! Thank you. I have an indie pattern that has disappointed because the chest is too tight (and no, I hadn't made a toile 😬). I am now all set to redo the pattern with a FBA; so thanks again!
I don't know which others, but Itch to Stitch is kindly providing at least up to a 'D' with her patterns. I appreciate that even a woman that doesn't need the SBA or FBA is willing to fuss over them for those of us who do need them.
Wonderful tutorial, thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you for this video. I watched another from a web site which charges for its information, but their video was not as good. You don't simply provide a formula, you show why it is being done that way. After the first video, I despaired of ever making these adjustments. Now, after seeing your video, I look forward to trying out the technique.
What an Excellent tutorial. Thank you very much
finally. someone who can relay info And be pleasant to watch.
We're glad you enjoyed the video!
Thank you for this tutorial! Now I can finally make my own bodice blocks since all of the bodice block tutorials just tell you to make full bust adjustments without telling you how to do it.
Great tutorial. Thank.
Our pleasure!
Very clear, if a lot of info
Hi! Thanks for replying to my message so quickly. The pattern I am making the shirt/blouse from is a McCall's 2094 (1999). It's not just the shoulder seams that don't match up by the way, if I place the bodice pattern on top of the back pattern the side seams of the bodice stick out so much more than those of the back due to the increase in width resulting from the FBA and the larger dart. (Sorry I posted this reply more than once - didn't know where to put it - not done this sort of thing before).
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REPLY
Hi! We will have to adjust the back piece a tad. Can you send me a picture of your pieces lined up so I can draw where you need to make the adjustment? Info@sewingpartsonline subject line : question for sarah. Thank you!
Thanks for the advice Sarah. I'll take a picture of the pattern pieces tomorrow night and send it over to you on your email address you supplied. Thank you. Regards PB
Thank you that was a very helpful explanation = especially about where the dart should end relative to the apex.
Gosh, this was SUPER helpful! Thank you!!!
thank you so much for your reply! Your videos are the BEST!!!!
Thank you sooooo much!!!! It is so helpfull! I always need a FBA, now I understand how to do it!
Thank you, great video, best explanation I have seen so far, I want more....keep up the good work
Thank you so much. Very easy to understand😁
Best explanation I’ve seen
Thank you, very helpful! Wonderful teacher.
Learned so much and I'm not a beginner seamstress! Thanks!
Our pleasure! Thanks for watching!
Angie Hotchkiss o
Great Video! Little tip for you - instead of soup cans, metal washers make great and inexpensive pattern weights. :)
Great tip!
What a wonderful tutorial. Very well explained, thank you.
Thank you for the video it was great, but I also need a video on a dart less bust adjust meant adjust please ;-) many thanks Penny M
fantastic fantastic fantastic tutorial 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Do you have a tutorial for FBA with no darts?
Great clear instruction
Best explanation I've seen. Thank you
A brilliant explanation
This has been a great presentation Thanks you
Really. excellent video. Greetings from Guayaquil, Ecuador
Thank you!
Thank you, it is a great tutorial.
Thank you so much for watching!
An excellent guide--thank you!
I’ve seen many FBA videos, this one is one of the best!
Thank you so much!
I greatly appreciate it.! Thank You.
Awesome
This is very helpful, thank you!
Very, very, very educational, thank you so much.
Question: Im 6'2" tall. I would need to adjust the bust and length waist, s that correct?
Yesterday you replied to my question (regarding getting a negative number with SBA adjustments with a larger waist) with another question. I answered that my numbers are 37.5 for High bust, 41 for full bust and 39 for waist. I would really appreciate hearing a response to this as well.
Hi Evelyn! I wanted to double check before I responded. The negative number makes your adjustment a bit more complicated. It has been suggested that you would better benefit from this method: www.sewalongs.com/hawthorn/hawthorn-full-and-small-bust-adjustments
Or you can try to wing it and use the negative number as a starting point for your adjustment as outlined in our video. Good luck!
Thank you for your video. The bust adjustment video was super!! but I have a question, when picking a size for blouse/dress patterns. I am a little confused (sorry) If my waist measurement fits a larger pattern size( large) than my bust measurement pattern size,(med) I should pick the pattern size that fits my waist and make a small bust adjustment? Or should I pick a pattern size closest to my waist measurement and do a large bust adjustment to the pattern?
angie g Hi! Pick the pattern size that fits your waist, then go from there. So, if your waist is a large, but your bust is a medium, you would do a small bust adjustment. I've had to do that a few times myself. Good Luck!
My measurements are almost exactly the same as Michelle C and I haven't seen any answer to her dilemma. She ended up with a negative .5 for a small bust adjustment. My H.B. is 37.5, my F.B. is 41 and my waist is 39. Since my waist is more than my H.B. it seems I should do a SBA, but the math comes out with a negative number. I thought your video was brilliant and would like to follow the info. Please reply to our dilemma.
I'm here with the same, if I went with the waist, the shoulders would be huge, because I'm an "H" shape. other blogger's advice has been to choose the high bust measurement and do an FBA. this seems more intuitive, and worked with the first time tried it.
Have a nice day nice video
Thank you and thank you for watching!
This is amazing! Thank you!
I know this is an old video but I'm hoping someone still reviews the comments. There is a mention that if your waist puts you in a larger size then you should go with that size to start and do a SBA. Ok, that sound reasonable because I've never had luck with FBA. Back / waist are always too tight using that method. So when I plug in my measurements into the SBA method, High+2-Full / 2 I come up with something that I can't work with. High is 38+2=40-Full of 41 40-41= negative 1 divided by 2 = negative .5 So, what should I do?
Genius! I can finally understand!!!
I get your instructions. I calculated my FB 43.5” - UB 36” = 7.5” divided by 2 = 3.75” bust adjustment. You said to pick the pattern size based on your waist size which is 36”. Somehow, when I follow these instructions I almost nail it, but the top is too snug and that is without the darts being sewn in. Are my calculations wrong? I wear a 38DD bra size.
💖 the tutorial!
Thanks ☺!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
Just curious as to why you are opening the side dart and adding unnecessary bulk to that area for a fba. If you close/rotate the side dart to vertical dart you can slash pattern from bust point to shoulder tip and increase pattern by 1/4 inch (per additional cup size needed) adding additional length to center front.
Like idea, not sure where you mean "to shoulder tip . . ." , but wish i did.
the guide is beautifully clear.. but i've eliminated the dart altogether because of the smallness of my bust. Is there a point where you should stop overlappy? (e.g., when you eliminate the dart you then can't go any smaller)? I had to make mine 3.3cm smalller (1.3 inches)... would love any tips, please?
I'm a fan!
Good👌👌
Thank you for this. Your instructions are very clear. Do you have a video for busy adjustments on a princess bodice?
Hi! We don't have a video on princess seam adjustments, but we do have a blog post about it here: www.sewingpartsonline.com/blog/how-to-alter-princess-seams/
@@SewingPartsOnline Thank you! That's what I'm working with right now.
Best FB ever! thanks
Hi, this tutorial is fantastic however does is matter that the middle front seam is now going to be longer?
I'm a true beginner. I was lost at tracing the pattern and where those triangles came from.
Terrific video! How do I make a full bust adjustment on a princess seam pattern? Thanks so much!
Can you please do a tutorial on how to enlarge a short sleeve pattern at the upper arm by an 1 and a 1/2 and how to enlarge that armhole on a bodice to fit that sleeve. The upper arm measures 15 inches plus 1 and 1/2 inches of ease is 16 inches and the pattern measures 15 inches.
Thank you so much for ur clear explanation. If your bust is 55" how would you do the adjustments
Hi! Plug in your bust measurement and your high bust measurement into the formula (in the video) and go for it! Always test on a muslin version first.
Such an informative video! Really great job! Just one question/comment. If you have that dart at the waist for the SBA, why are you adding the fabric back on at the side? If you have a dart there, you aren’t actually losing anything from the width, the dart just gets smaller, but the waist will stay the same. I get it if there is no dart and you are doing an SBA, to add the fabric you are losing at the waist. Maybe i missed something.
i enjoyed your video, making adjustment to the front pattern, will l also make adjustment on the back pattern?
without further ado !
What’s ado ? 😂
Great video 🇬🇧
Saved and subscribed
Curious, Why is "2" also subtracted in the formula? Even with subtracting the 2, my final number is 4. Are there any extra items for Very Large Full Bust adjustments? I am wondering if i need more than 2 inches to start the bust dart from the apex.
Thank you for this wonderful tutorial.
You make full bust adjustment and along with that waist and hip on pattern become larger too.What to do if I need to increase just bust and leave hips and waist alone?...Thx
at 9:30 you say for fuller bust women, you want the tip of the dart to be 2 inches from the new apex. is this the same for everyone? my FBA was .8 inch. so would i want me apex to be 1.6 inch from the new dart head?
not sure if the 2 inch you gave is for everyone
This is so what I have needed .How do I continue to watch your tutorials? Help?
Click on 'Sewing Parts Online' by the red circle [that also says 'Sewing Parts Online', it will take you to all of her videos. Also hit the red Subscribe button if you want to know when she puts out a new one.
Why are these all for dart patterns??? I dont sew patterns with darts. But my bustline is always up near my dam collar bone i am super long from shoulder to bust apex but im short waisted and 160cms short. Am i meant to just lengthen the bodice of patterns then? Or still do a FBA but without darts? I wear and make loose tops but my full bust is too high and my waist on pattern is sitting under my bust 😢 why are these adjustments for these patterns only. I want to adjust a magyar sleeve/kimono type top bodice pattern without arm sleeves being even bigger.
Hi Sarah, Just found this video and love love your energy and the specificity that you bring to this video.I have a question I hope you'll have time to answer. My waist measurement always brings me to a larger bust so I would need to do a SBA. I noticed you never mentioned the back bodice. It doesn't need any adjustments am I correct? Have you done a tutorial for both bust & waist adjustments? For example, what is the bust is 6 inches larger and the waist 5 inches larger. Would you then do a SBA & a waist adjustment? You would then need to include the back bodice and adjust waist there as well to distribute the 5 in reduction? Am I sort of on the right track?
My brain is boggled. I think splitting these up might be better. Great explanations though
Helpful video! How would I adjust a bust for a strapless top pattern?
We do not currently have a video on bust adjustments for a strapless top pattern. I recommend checking TH-cam for other videos that cover the specifics of your project. Thank you for watching!
Hi, I don't understand the calculation - ((Full bust - high bust) - 2) divided by 2: what's the minus 2 in the brackets for? Thanks.
Will the armpit hole have a little bit more of a crook to it? Is that normal? Or should I keep the exact original armhole cutout shape?
After making a FBA to my tunic front bodice, I am wondering if I need to adjust the back of the bodice.The front is where I needed the room.
This is a general video on bust adjustments. I am sorry to report, I do not have more information. I recommend searching TH-cam for more specific videos to tailor your needs.
Your video is great. How do I adjust bust and shoulder also?
Thank you! We do not currently have a video for shoulder adjustments. I recommend exploring TH-cam for some great videos! Here is an example: th-cam.com/video/DXTklfkh2Fc/w-d-xo.html
I know you said use your natural waist measurement, but I have love handles. Do I use the measurement from my love handles, which is larger than my natural waist? The piece I want to make is a snug bodice. My high bust is smaller than my full bust and my hips are larger than both. Thank you
how do i adjust a pattern for a 32g/h? im trying to make a vintage dress out of satin and would be grateful for help because im struggling with it
After we have done the FBA, can we then manipulate that darts, say if i want a princess seam or a shoulder dart, can we move the darts around? thanks
I think it can be done, but that would entail other type of calculations
Your video has a point we’re it stops and you have to go forward to get it to start again.
Thank you for bringing this to our attention. We will look into it. I am sorry for any frustration.
how do you adjust the bust for a torso block - with one fish-eye/body dart and one shoulder dart?
Hi! Yes, you would dart the back for a tailored fit.
how can i apply this information to a one shoulder dress? My granddaughter is smaller in the back and hips but large busted. She is an 8 but a size F bustline. How can we email this discussion?
This was awesome. Now. My question.
I have purchased a fabulous 60s dress pattern, but the pattern is a size 10 and my measurements are size 18 (39/32/42) how do I adjust a single pattern into my new size? Help!
I am glad you enjoyed. I am sorry but I do not have information on the specifics of your project. I recommend checking for additional TH-cam videos on bust adjustments. This is the only one that we currently offer.
brilliant but been asked to sew for sister who needs 4 to 8 inches increase & not sure how this would work
Hi, Casey! Sew a muslin version using this method and tweak the fit while she is wearing the muslin.
i followed each step and upgraded my size and it fits great but now there is fullness at the dart point near the apex. what should i do?
Hi! You need to take in at the dart. That will give you a perfect fit!
What if your pattern has no darts, and your bust is smaller than your waist. How is that adjustment made?
There are extra steps that you will need to take to create a pattern with darts. I found a great blog that will help you step by step. helenscloset.ca/2017/03/21/how-to-do-a-full-bust-adjustment-without-any-darts/
Help?? What if there is no technical arm-hole? I am working on a vintage 50's Halter top that has no actual armholes how would I do a SBA on this?
What if you have the large waist and do a small bust adjustment calculation as per instructions and come up with a negative number?
Hi Evelyn - what are the numbers you're calculating?
HB is 37.5, FB is 41, Waist is 39. Thanks for looking at this.