Simagic P1000 Throttle Pedal Fix
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- edit: The washers used are actually oil plug drain gaskets. 14mm ID. the ones here are Hillman Part# 58505 (technically 1/2 inch) but there are definitely other options
In this video i discuss some common talked about issues with the throttle pedal of the P1000 pedals. The soft pedal and excessive travel and how i addressed them. Forgive the poor quality. Very impromptu
My gas pedal was hard af. Had to use the softer spring.and also the clutch was hard also. Used a softer spring. And also adjusted the gamma. Made it better
Il mio pedale rimane bloccato, cioè non il pedale ma l'accelerazione a volte non stacca quando il piede dell'acceleratore anche se il pedale torna su. Sto diventando matto
This is very helpful info. Will definitely being doing this mod for heel-toe use. Despite their minor shortcomings, the modular nature of these pedals seem to make it really easy to correct through simple mods 👍
Overall I love this pedal set. It's an easy fix that addresses all of my issues. My 3d printer shows up today. I'm going to 3D print spacers kits to make it easier. So people don't have to go search for the washers/ gaskets I used here. As soon as I get them dialed I'll probably do a video update.
Thanks for this! Preloading the throttle spring was what I was looking for and so easy.
Just glad it's been able to help some people. Adding preload is so sick and it was mind blowing all the big channels were talking about the weak throttle pedal and no one did that.
Thanks for the advice. My issue with these pedals is that the throttle is too hard to hold when it is pushed all the way in. Any advice on how to make softer when pushed in?
I’m having the exact same issue right now with these new pedals I’ve just bought, my leg is aching and starts to hurt my back after only a few laps 😢 did you manage to sort this issue out? I’m seriously considering selling them already as it’s almost undriveable the way it is now and I’ve tried all sorts of adjusting 😫 only had them one week 🤦🏻♂️
Should be able to add some dead one to the end of the travel in calibration. Add as much as you need.
Also if it’s that hard to get to full throttle may need to move the pedals closer or father depending on what you need. Either way, calibration should help move that issue.
I had the red clutch pedal in mine, I can't reccomend it, the casing came undone & exploded
luckily nothing is damaged
Thanks for the video fantastic info
Glad it helped!
nice easy fix for the throttle... thanks for the idea ser
This might also help buffer the hard return noise/feeling shown here th-cam.com/video/s6eXdnNsfBI/w-d-xo.html possibly even adding a rubber oil drain gasket in the mix.
I'm going to have spacers printed out of a tpu material. It may she that as well
Hey, can you have only two pedals inverted? I don’t need the clutch one.
Thanks
Yes. You can buy the 2 pedal set, and then buy the inverted conversion kit if you only need the 2 pedals.
Are you sure it was at the shortest travel setting? It looked like it was at its longest.
It's at the shortest travel point. Bar moved all the way forward towards the back of the pedal arm. It came shipped at the longest and it was just absolutely absurd.
It appears that your “tube” is attached to the rod at the rear. You were able to detach the spring assembly by unscrewing it and the black cylindrical cover stayed in place…
My whole thing comes off together, it is just a groove in the back of the whole thing. I didn’t realize and it appears that this fix won’t quite work as I have to add back enough preload so that whole thing doesn’t fall out during use. Sigh.
That's interesting. The rear on the throttle is held together with a pin and bushing and what not with all the sets I've seen. But either way, adding internal spacers adds preload, so it should stay together still. Able to share pics of what you have going on?
@@charlesgutscher1923 interesting indeed!
Mine is just a groove that sits on the rod. It’s disappointing, as it cannot pull the throttle “forward” as it needs the back pressure to keep it in place which just pushes the throttle plate back to its original position.
I’ll try and get some photos right now.
Unfortunately this doesnt work with the latest revision to the throttle. The new version has a different rear pivot that relies on pressure to stay in place and doesn't force the throttle angle back if the throw is adjusted like this.
I've heard they have changed the design. Which really sucks. I'll have a set of the new ones coming for a build and I'll see what I can come up with.
@@charlesgutscher1923 yeah, the new design has the same rear pivot as the new hydraulic throttle.
@@charlesgutscher1923any update regarding a solution for the new ones?
This is an awesome little fix. I think 3 will be a perfect amount for me. Now to hunt down a local source. Thanks!!
I'm glad it helped. The part number is what I found at my local store. 14mm or half inch inner diameter. No larger than 21mm outer diameter. I. Actually having a buddy 3d print me some options, hopefully in the next few weeks I'll just have some 3d printed spacers in case people need them
@@charlesgutscher1923 , I printed some 14x21mm, 2mm thick, but the ID was a little small. I reprinted them at 16x21mm, 2mm thick and they fit fine, just a tiny bit loose. For me, 3 of these worked great. Thanks for the video!
nice ❤
Still not convinced that the travel is decreased.
The hard stop is originally caused by the adjustable small 'stop rod'. In order to make it stop earlier, it means the stop is caused by something within the pedal cilinder?
Is that safe for the parts anyway?
The travel is decreased significantly. And there's zero extra strain on pedals. I have no way to explain in short handed text here. If you'd like j can draw a diagram of how it works. But you're pulling the end of the pedal closer to the rear stop
@@charlesgutscher1923 Guess I have only one way to find out. :) You seem to be certain so heading to the hardware store tomorrow to find some metal rings that should fit then. More then 14mm inner and less then 21mm outer.
@@KevinVanHumbeeck if you're in the States I have 3d printed spacers I can send you.
@@charlesgutscher1923 thats very kind but im in EU unfortunately
This is some great info Charles, thanks very much :) Cheers Don, Perth W.Australia (Dons Shed and Xplor Overland)
Hope it helped. I also have spacers now made and available. I am going to do an updated video with the spacers this weekend.
@@charlesgutscher1923 no worries, I've Subscribed for it :)
@@charlesgutscher1923 I currently don't have a Sim Rig (using my PS5 Controller)...... so I'm trying to decide between Fanatec and Simagic..... what are your thoughts on my "dilemma" LOL? (Note: Fanatec V3 Pedals are $580AUD with Performance Brake Kit/Elastomers and P1000's are $1000AUD without Elastomers here)...... do you think the Simagic Ecosystem is worth the extra cost?
@@DonsShed in my opinion, yes. They are. The new fanatec wheel bases are supposed to be great but their pedals imo just aren't there. I mean it's better than a set of Logitech pedals but the P1000s are a genuinely good pedal set.
@@charlesgutscher1923 I’ve got these pedals coming in over the weekend, and your solution here has been the best I’ve seen yet. Where can I buy your 3d printed spacers?
"I don't know the size"
You literally have a ruler on your desk mat lol
Yeah, that's not going to give you the exact size for the part number. However. It's in the description with the partner I used. 🤷.
@@charlesgutscher1923 Yeah no worries, I just found it funny
@@Hugo-pj4bm I don't appreciate being attacked like that. 😂😂😂. It's pretty funny. But I did indeed update the description. And I'm working on 3d printing spacer kits in case people need them and don't feel like hunting hardware stores
I went from 5 stars to 2 stars on this video because washer size omitted. Not an attack….not.
@@JerrySpallone it's in the description! Sheesh. Be gentle. I also have 3d printed spacers kits available if anyone needs.
So seems like you have the same squeaking problem as me. Did you solve it? Probably need some grease right?
I found the squeak I have to be coming from the base olat itself. The cover over the electronics on the inverted setup was making noise. I just re tightened things. But yes I also used a little grease on everything
@@charlesgutscher1923 Base olat? What do you mean by that? But allright, maybe I'm gonna retighten it and then see how it's gonna effect that. Thank you for the quick response.
@@lorenz7550 sorry a miss type. Base plate.
@@charlesgutscher1923 Ah allright, now I understand that xD. Gonna have a look at that too, so thanks for the response 👍
@@charlesgutscher1923Btw. it seems like in my case it sounds like the spring is the issue causing the squeaking. So I'm probably gonna put some grease onto the spring of the throttle and hopefully it's gonna solve the problem, but we'll see
could you use the yellow spring from the clutch for the throttle and the red one for the clutch? or ist this to stiff?
You can use one for the clutch springs, yes. Most use the blue. However if you're doing this mod, keep the stock springs ad it adds quite a bit of preload and makes the pedal much stiffer
Boosted Media has a really great video on pedal setup & calibration that addresses this. Definitely worth taking a look
This has nothing to do with pedal calibration or anything of the sort. This has to do with a mechanical fault and lack of adjustment in the hardware itself as that's what I was addressing
@@charlesgutscher1923 I understand that and I appreciate the video. The video I referenced just has some tips that would complement any pedal setup....such as setting dead spots at the beginning and end of throttle pedal travel to ensure the throttle fully opens when depressed.