huge thank you Sir, this was a huge help, mine was locked up and just needed a good lube, but then the drag wasn't working well looking at how the system works, the spring arm that engages the drag gear in the tail had some loose enough that the spring arm moved over and wasn't engaging,,, so moved the arm over, maybe 1/16 of an inch to engage and the drag is also now working again huge thank you, and God bless
First class demonstration, Sir! I have a similar reel, Aero mach 4000 size spool. I'm about to take it apart in search of why the 'click' is missing.. when line is pulled and clutch is loosened, silence. Functioning well, just miss that click... Keep up the great work. Ryan
@@2ndChanceTackle Hey chief, what was the Daiwa Model you pulled next to the Shimano? I need it to see if I can find the spool push/release button for my Shimano FX 4000- RA
Great Video, Just pulled a 30 year old eurostar/silstar VIP40 apart because its drag was sticky . The washers had completely disintegrated, so I was a bit confused about where they should be. This is a very similar setup so once the new blanks arrive I know how to put it all together. Thanks heaps!
Very thorough video. Just what I needed to know be comfortable to pull my FX2000 apart to clean and lube. I’ve had several of this series Shimano’s and always have a problem with the anti-reverse not catching consistently. Thanks!
Dennis, I have two Shimano SSG7000 large saltwater rear drag reels. They must be pretty hard to find and often very expensive. I got lucky with mine as I didn’t pay more than $35 for each of them. I did see one once on eBay for $299.00. Both of mine were in new condition. This reel holds the oscillation block on the axle with two separate tiny E-clips. They are horrible to remove and replace. I ordered two of those clips because I’m so afraid of losing them. The reel has 14 drag washers in it. It only has one ball bearing at the pinion yet it is very smooth. I’ve caught two huge stingrays with one of them (95 lbs.). I have a question - can any reels where the rotor is held to the housing with a big U-clip have any ball bearings at the pinion? I like this video. Though it is not like my two big Shimano, it is still helpful to understand how a rear drag works. - Chris
Great video, worked for my IX R2000 also. was having an anti reverse problem where it wasn't catching and just free spinning. this seems to have fixed it!
I have a bunch of Shimano Magnumlite GT-X 2100, 2200 and 2300 reels bought them around 1986. I took the Quickfire junk off. I wonder why the rear drag systems faded away?
They haven't faded too far. The downside on these is the limited max drag. As for a freshwater fishing reel, they are still around and doing what they should at a relatively inexpensive price. Thanks - Dennis
I have a shimano 6000, the baitrunner drag is working fine but my bottom drag doesn’t seem to engage but turns endlessly, so it doesn’t allow me to change the drag. Any ideas on the problem? I’ve tried to rebuild it as portrayed in the video but still no luck👎🏼 thanks in advance
Have you watched the one on the 6500 bait runner? You can see it here th-cam.com/video/myKyIjPuMn4/w-d-xo.html. It goes into detail on the rear drag system - Dennis
Wow, I've never casted a quickfire shimano like that. I've always captured the line with my index finger, and pulled the trigger with same finger, then just casted like normal. Anyway great vid, all your videos are great, thanks for tearing down all these reels.
Yeah - I was showing this without the pole. You want to use the forefinger when casting it! I couldn't manage it without the pole, so I showed if using my thumb. You would be surprised to learn how many folks have a quick fire reel and don't know about the feature! Thank you - Dennis
Great video! I have the Shimano EXAGE 3000 SRCDH also with rear brake, but even watching your video I haven't figured how to take mine apart, any change you might know how? Or even have a video on it?
There should be nothing special about removing the side plate here. You need to take the rear brake cover off first, and then the top plastic bevel to expose the inside screw at the base of the side plate. You should then be able to take the other the side plate screws out and remove the side plate. Unfortunately, I have not been able to get the schematic, so I am taking an educated guess on this one. Try to find the schematic on the internet in order to confirm the location of the screws - Thank you - Dennis.
Hello Dennis, I need you to do a saline x40sha or something with compatibility. I'm in a bind, when I opened it up things fell out and can't figure out where they go. Looked on schematic but doesn't help with assembling and tricks to get it together. Thanks again
This is a great video! Thanks for posting it. In your opinion what would fail in a rear drag in order to have the shaft free spin in either forward or reverse? There’s no drag at all. Thanks for considering this!
I think you answered your question. IF it does not have a drag.... So, broken drag, broken spring or other part, missing parts or mis-assembly are the most likely causes, in that order. Thanks for asking - Dennis
2nd Chance Tackle should the drag shafts be locked onto the main shaft and they spin with the main - then when you apply pressure via the drag it basically “clutches” the drag shafts thus creating drag. Have I got that right? My main drag shaft just allows the main to spin - as far as I can tell nothing at all is grabbing onto the main wondering if it’s “stripped out”.
Hey Dennis I've got a Shimano 100 Q rear drag Style real real I guess I can follow along as well right I've never done a rear drag reel like this before buddy of mine gave it to me and seems to be a decent little reel
I think these are all pretty similar. There may be a little variation, but you should be able to follow this process to service your reel - Thanks - Dennis
Is there anyway we can send you in reels i took apart a penn no. 309 i cant figure out how to get the anti reverse dog back in place or the Encentric jack i wasnt planning on taking it apart but i unskrewed the wrong skrews from the get go and made a huge mess.
There is no adjustment for uneven line. You are correct, you cannot add or remove the axle shaft shim to adjust. If you have uneven line, it is probably excessive play in the axle shaft caused by wear in the cross block or on the shaft. Either or both would need to be replaced to fix it. These reels are not that expensive and a new one is probably in order if replacing these parts is the solution. You can test for shaft free play by pulling up and down on the spool and seeing how much it moves vertically, If there is slop, then the parts are worn - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle Yes there is around 2-3mm of vertical slack. The reel in question is an Shimano Aspire 4000 wich wasn't that cheap here in Sweden 8 years back. I thank you for the prompt answer :)
That's too much slack. I'm afraid you will need to check and possibly replace the following" Oscillating gear, Oscillating slider and clip. Also if you can remove the axle shaft when you are checking the other parts and see if the spool still has play while disconnected from the oscillating mechanisms, then it may be as simple as replacing the spool. Just some thoughts without seeing your reel - Best wishes - Dennis
Hi, where can i get the bushings? Do you happen to have part name for them? Or can i replace them with ball bearings? the bushing bore on my reel got bigger and the the handle wobbles freely. Great videos Thanks :)
The part number according to the schematic is RD2293 - Drive Gear Bushing. Two are required for the reel. ereplacementparts.com is one source for the Shimano parts. It shows the part as available. Two bushings are required for the reel. If you use the ereplacementparts.com site, enter RD2293 in the search box and it should take you to the part. I am unsure if you can replace this bushing with a bearing. I believe it would be possible, but I don't have the replacement part information - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle Thanks for the information. I ordered a pair of ball bearings and they may arrive today. I will try them and if it doesnt work i will try rd2293. The reel i am working on is a shimano carbomatic 3000gt and it is very similar to the roll in your video. I have another shimano Custom 4000 and its drag washers need replacing. Do you know what Kind of washers they use? They are worn out and sticking to the metal washers.
I don't know the exact one. Most of the rear drag shamans use the same, or similar washers. The custom 4000 is from the 1980s. You can check for the schematic with an online search. That should give you the part numbers. I think Mikesreelrepair.com or ereplacementparts.com would have these - Dennis
Dennis,,when I started doing my own reel servicing,I was very unhappy. Every time I put it back together,it felt geary,not smooth anymore etc.. I did a lot of thinking and started to wonder if because the main and pinion were not placed back in the exact same spot,meaning,,the two gears are not meshing like they once were. I wondered if the gear wore in a certain wear pattern,and if taking them out and then reassembled them in any position could be causing this. After discussing this with many reel mechanics on the reel repair forums,they have confirmed that I am correct,and they have proven this to be true. Just curious if you have experienced the same.
There is no question that a gear may warp or become patterned to a complementary gear, so it can happen. I am not sure ow much it happens though. That is because the pinion gear and main gear are frequently made of different metals and the turn is not consistent with the mesh be equal on every revolution. I think a possible cause can be due to mis-alignment. The alignment can be disrupted after cleaning and can case the gear to set to deep, or not deep enough. These reels come from the factory with shims on the main gear to compensate for side to side play. Next time you get a reel that is underperforming after reassembly, try moving a shim from one side of the main gear to the other and see if it makes a difference. You may also try removing a shim entirely and see if it changes the effect. Also, on elliptical gear reels, there are usually reference marks on both gears where they need to intersect. It this is not done, the reel will underperform or may not work at all. If you fear that you will experience this problem in the future, take a sharpie pen and make a reference mark on both gears and use that to reset them when you reinstall. - Dennis
Yeah I tried shim removal ,and addition,never brought it back to the way it was. These days I mark the gear position. I really believe that’s the real culprit,because if I take apart a new reel and change gear positions,it doesnt change the feel.
No. - I only do a few throughout the year. There are two I have done this year in Lindenhurst. The spring and fall shows. I've been too busy to do a lot of the flea markets. Have a great holiday season - Dennis
Yes. If you turn the top button counterclockwise, you can remove the top carrier and reseat the button. There are two parallel wires that snap onto the axle shaft groove and the button is a wedge that separates the wires and allows you to remove the spool. Those are all under the top cap. Your button is likely out of position, so try removing the cap and resetting it. If you button is broken, you can remove the spool at that point by inserting a screw driver to pry the wires apart - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle thanks a lot Dennis, great written instructions. Got it figured out, this came in a bundle of 4 for 30 , with a custom 1000 , a quantum inshore of sorts, and a unexpectedly nice quantum catalyst 20 pti.
I haven't seen hat reel in quite some time. Unfortunately the rear drag reels are generally tossed if they break because of limited parts availability and the low cost of the reel. I did a quick internet search and could not find the schematic. I suggest you find any Daiwa rear drag reel schematic as a general guide. Their technology did not change much. Thanks for asking - Dennis
This reel has a rear drag. I do not have that reel in my shop, so I cannot help at this point. I will add to my request list and do a video if/when I get one. Thanks for asking - Dennis
I assume you are referring to the rotor. That can wobble if the nut that holds the rotor to the pinion gear has loosened. Try tightening that first. Remember that some reels have a reverse thread and may tighten counterclockwise. The second cause may be that the bail is out of round. If so, then you may need to replace the bail. Thanks for asking - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle yes rotor couldn't think of the name but it's just like this reel it's a 2000fx there isn't a nut it has a horrible wobble when u crank it but line lay is still perfect
This sounds like the tab that holds the rotor in place is worn and would have to be replaced. The tab is a 'U" shaped piece of metal that slides in the grove of the pinion gear and the slot inside the case. That would be my next best guess. Take off the side plate and then move the rotor side to side and see where the movement is occurring internally. That should give you more clues on what is wrong - Dennis
Never mind Dennis, got it. Just needed the most important tool in the box, patience and a good sense of humor!! Thanks again
huge thank you Sir, this was a huge help,
mine was locked up and just needed a good lube, but then the drag wasn't working
well looking at how the system works, the spring arm that engages the drag gear in the
tail had some loose enough that the spring arm moved over and wasn't engaging,,, so moved
the arm over, maybe 1/16 of an inch to engage and the drag is also now working
again huge thank you, and God bless
YW - best wishes - Dennis
Thanks so much for this video. I just completed maintenance in my Fx 200 and it works😊. Thanks Dennis!!
Glad to help Scott - Be well - Dennis
First class demonstration, Sir!
I have a similar reel, Aero mach 4000 size spool. I'm about to take it apart in search of why the 'click' is missing.. when line is pulled and clutch is loosened, silence. Functioning well, just miss that click...
Keep up the great work.
Ryan
Exactly what I was looking for thank you! Great video....
Good luck in you rebuild. If you run into a problem, let me know - Thank you - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle Hey chief, what was the Daiwa Model you pulled next to the Shimano? I need it to see if I can find the spool push/release button for my Shimano FX 4000- RA
Hi there thanx for the help fixing my reel🇿🇦
YW - glad to have helped - Dennis
Great Video, Just pulled a 30 year old eurostar/silstar VIP40 apart because its drag was sticky . The washers had completely disintegrated, so I was a bit confused about where they should be. This is a very similar setup so once the new blanks arrive I know how to put it all together. Thanks heaps!
You are certainly welcome - Thanks for watching - Dennis
Hi, how did you get the retaining ring back in properly? Mine is sticking out the way yours did before you adjusted it
Very thorough video. Just what I needed to know be comfortable to pull my FX2000 apart to clean and lube. I’ve had several of this series Shimano’s and always have a problem with the anti-reverse not catching consistently. Thanks!
Glad it helped! I appreciate you watching. Please stay tuned for more to come - Dennis
Thank you for the video, precise and straight to the point!
You are welcome - please stay tuned for more to come - Dennis
Dennis, I have two Shimano SSG7000 large saltwater rear drag reels. They must be pretty hard to find and often very expensive. I got lucky with mine as I didn’t pay more than $35 for each of them. I did see one once on eBay for $299.00. Both of mine were in new condition. This reel holds the oscillation block on the axle with two separate tiny E-clips. They are horrible to remove and replace. I ordered two of those clips because I’m so afraid of losing them. The reel has 14 drag washers in it. It only has one ball bearing at the pinion yet it is very smooth. I’ve caught two huge stingrays with one of them (95 lbs.). I have a question - can any reels where the rotor is held to the housing with a big U-clip have any ball bearings at the pinion? I like this video. Though it is not like my two big Shimano, it is still helpful to understand how a rear drag works. - Chris
I haven't seen any reels where there is a "U" clip and a bearing. If you find one, let me know - Thanks
Great video, worked for my IX R2000 also. was having an anti reverse problem where it wasn't catching and just free spinning. this seems to have fixed it!
Great to hear! That is why I am doing these videos - Thanks for watching - Dennis
I have a bunch of Shimano Magnumlite GT-X 2100, 2200 and 2300 reels bought them around 1986. I took the Quickfire junk off. I wonder why the rear drag systems faded away?
They haven't faded too far. The downside on these is the limited max drag. As for a freshwater fishing reel, they are still around and doing what they should at a relatively inexpensive price. Thanks - Dennis
I have a shimano 6000, the baitrunner drag is working fine but my bottom drag doesn’t seem to engage but turns endlessly, so it doesn’t allow me to change the drag. Any ideas on the problem?
I’ve tried to rebuild it as portrayed in the video but still no luck👎🏼 thanks in advance
Have you watched the one on the 6500 bait runner? You can see it here th-cam.com/video/myKyIjPuMn4/w-d-xo.html. It goes into detail on the rear drag system - Dennis
I just recently acquired a shimano TX120Q, hoping a lot of it applies to mine.
Most of the Shimano rear drag reels share a similar design, so tis should be helpful - Dennis
wow i have never thought it would have been so hard to tighten a screw when it came to putting the retainer screw in....
One never knows!
Wow, I've never casted a quickfire shimano like that. I've always captured the line with my index finger, and pulled the trigger with same finger, then just casted like normal.
Anyway great vid, all your videos are great, thanks for tearing down all these reels.
Yeah - I was showing this without the pole. You want to use the forefinger when casting it! I couldn't manage it without the pole, so I showed if using my thumb. You would be surprised to learn how many folks have a quick fire reel and don't know about the feature! Thank you - Dennis
Great video!
I have the Shimano EXAGE 3000 SRCDH also with rear brake, but even watching your video I haven't figured how to take mine apart, any change you might know how? Or even have a video on it?
There should be nothing special about removing the side plate here. You need to take the rear brake cover off first, and then the top plastic bevel to expose the inside screw at the base of the side plate. You should then be able to take the other the side plate screws out and remove the side plate. Unfortunately, I have not been able to get the schematic, so I am taking an educated guess on this one.
Try to find the schematic on the internet in order to confirm the location of the screws - Thank you - Dennis.
Hello Dennis, I need you to do a saline x40sha or something with compatibility. I'm in a bind, when I opened it up things fell out and can't figure out where they go. Looked on schematic but doesn't help with assembling and tricks to get it together. Thanks again
This is a great video! Thanks for posting it. In your opinion what would fail in a rear drag in order to have the shaft free spin in either forward or reverse? There’s no drag at all. Thanks for considering this!
I think you answered your question. IF it does not have a drag.... So, broken drag, broken spring or other part, missing parts or mis-assembly are the most likely causes, in that order. Thanks for asking - Dennis
2nd Chance Tackle should the drag shafts be locked onto the main shaft and they spin with the main - then when you apply pressure via the drag it basically “clutches” the drag shafts thus creating drag. Have I got that right? My main drag shaft just allows the main to spin - as far as I can tell nothing at all is grabbing onto the main wondering if it’s “stripped out”.
Hey Dennis I've got a Shimano 100 Q rear drag Style real real I guess I can follow along as well right I've never done a rear drag reel like this before buddy of mine gave it to me and seems to be a decent little reel
I think these are all pretty similar. There may be a little variation, but you should be able to follow this process to service your reel - Thanks - Dennis
Aloha Dennis! I know this video is a bit older but do you know where I could buy a drag clicker for this reel?
Yes - try fishshop.shimano.com or ereplacementparts.com Both have parts for Shimano reels - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle Thank you Dennis! I was able to get it working again. Just had to re-bend the metal.
Is there anyway we can send you in reels i took apart a penn no. 309 i cant figure out how to get the anti reverse dog back in place or the Encentric jack i wasnt planning on taking it apart but i unskrewed the wrong skrews from the get go and made a huge mess.
Just used this video as a basis to take down and lube my spirex
Glad it helped you. Please stay tuned for more to come - Dennis
Nice tutorial. How would you fix an uneven line placement on spool on these back drag's since there's only the brass nut on the shaft and no washers.
There is no adjustment for uneven line. You are correct, you cannot add or remove the axle shaft shim to adjust. If you have uneven line, it is probably excessive play in the axle shaft caused by wear in the cross block or on the shaft. Either or both would need to be replaced to fix it. These reels are not that expensive and a new one is probably in order if replacing these parts is the solution. You can test for shaft free play by pulling up and down on the spool and seeing how much it moves vertically, If there is slop, then the parts are worn - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle Yes there is around 2-3mm of vertical slack. The reel in question is an Shimano Aspire 4000 wich wasn't that cheap here in Sweden 8 years back. I thank you for the prompt answer :)
That's too much slack. I'm afraid you will need to check and possibly replace the following"
Oscillating gear, Oscillating slider and clip. Also if you can remove the axle shaft when you are checking the other parts and see if the spool still has play while disconnected from the oscillating mechanisms, then it may be as simple as replacing the spool.
Just some thoughts without seeing your reel - Best wishes - Dennis
Hi, where can i get the bushings? Do you happen to have part name for them? Or can i replace them with ball bearings? the bushing bore on my reel got bigger and the the handle wobbles freely. Great videos Thanks :)
The part number according to the schematic is RD2293 - Drive Gear Bushing. Two are required for the reel. ereplacementparts.com is one source for the Shimano parts. It shows the part as available. Two bushings are required for the reel. If you use the ereplacementparts.com site, enter RD2293 in the search box and it should take you to the part. I am unsure if you can replace this bushing with a bearing. I believe it would be possible, but I don't have the replacement part information - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle Thanks for the information. I ordered a pair of ball bearings and they may arrive today. I will try them and if it doesnt work i will try rd2293. The reel i am working on is a shimano carbomatic 3000gt and it is very similar to the roll in your video. I have another shimano Custom 4000 and its drag washers need replacing. Do you know what Kind of washers they use? They are worn out and sticking to the metal washers.
I don't know the exact one. Most of the rear drag shamans use the same, or similar washers. The custom 4000 is from the 1980s. You can check for the schematic with an online search. That should give you the part numbers. I think Mikesreelrepair.com or ereplacementparts.com would have these - Dennis
Do you have anywhere I can buy replacement gears for this reel?
Try Mikesreelrepair.com - Dennis
Dennis,,when I started doing my own reel servicing,I was very unhappy. Every time I put it back together,it felt geary,not smooth anymore etc.. I did a lot of thinking and started to wonder if because the main and pinion were not placed back in the exact same spot,meaning,,the two gears are not meshing like they once were. I wondered if the gear wore in a certain wear pattern,and if taking them out and then reassembled them in any position could be causing this. After discussing this with many reel mechanics on the reel repair forums,they have confirmed that I am correct,and they have proven this to be true. Just curious if you have experienced the same.
There is no question that a gear may warp or become patterned to a complementary gear, so it can happen. I am not sure ow much it happens though. That is because the pinion gear and main gear are frequently made of different metals and the turn is not consistent with the mesh be equal on every revolution. I think a possible cause can be due to mis-alignment. The alignment can be disrupted after cleaning and can case the gear to set to deep, or not deep enough. These reels come from the factory with shims on the main gear to compensate for side to side play. Next time you get a reel that is underperforming after reassembly, try moving a shim from one side of the main gear to the other and see if it makes a difference. You may also try removing a shim entirely and see if it changes the effect. Also, on elliptical gear reels, there are usually reference marks on both gears where they need to intersect. It this is not done, the reel will underperform or may not work at all. If you fear that you will experience this problem in the future, take a sharpie pen and make a reference mark on both gears and use that to reset them when you reinstall. - Dennis
Yeah I tried shim removal ,and addition,never brought it back to the way it was. These days I mark the gear position. I really believe that’s the real culprit,because if I take apart a new reel and change gear positions,it doesnt change the feel.
Nice meeting you! - Dennis
Same here..do you come to a lot of the flea markets on Long Island?
No. - I only do a few throughout the year. There are two I have done this year in Lindenhurst. The spring and fall shows. I've been too busy to do a lot of the flea markets. Have a great holiday season - Dennis
My spool is stuck, any suggestions, it's like the button is making contact
Yes. If you turn the top button counterclockwise, you can remove the top carrier and reseat the button. There are two parallel wires that snap onto the axle shaft groove and the button is a wedge that separates the wires and allows you to remove the spool. Those are all under the top cap. Your button is likely out of position, so try removing the cap and resetting it. If you button is broken, you can remove the spool at that point by inserting a screw driver to pry the wires apart - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle thanks a lot Dennis, great written instructions. Got it figured out, this came in a bundle of 4 for 30 , with a custom 1000 , a quantum inshore of sorts, and a unexpectedly nice quantum catalyst 20 pti.
Thanks Dennis,Great video. However i have a daiwa AR 4000 could u please do a video or send me the schematics.
I haven't seen hat reel in quite some time. Unfortunately the rear drag reels are generally tossed if they break because of limited parts availability and the low cost of the reel. I did a quick internet search and could not find the schematic. I suggest you find any Daiwa rear drag reel schematic as a general guide. Their technology did not change much.
Thanks for asking - Dennis
thanks for responding, much appreciate it. Rob
Plz help me okuma trinity tnr 340 drag maintainance
This reel has a rear drag. I do not have that reel in my shop, so I cannot help at this point. I will add to my request list and do a video if/when I get one. Thanks for asking - Dennis
Thnk u sir
What would cause the part that spins to wobble
I assume you are referring to the rotor. That can wobble if the nut that holds the rotor to the pinion gear has loosened. Try tightening that first. Remember that some reels have a reverse thread and may tighten counterclockwise. The second cause may be that the bail is out of round. If so, then you may need to replace the bail. Thanks for asking - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle yes rotor couldn't think of the name but it's just like this reel it's a 2000fx there isn't a nut it has a horrible wobble when u crank it but line lay is still perfect
This sounds like the tab that holds the rotor in place is worn and would have to be replaced. The tab is a 'U" shaped piece of metal that slides in the grove of the pinion gear and the slot inside the case. That would be my next best guess. Take off the side plate and then move the rotor side to side and see where the movement is occurring internally. That should give you more clues on what is wrong - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle will do thanks for the help buddy
Hello sir , i have shimano biomaster xt rear drag ,how to open main shaft ,it that a way to servise the reel in this video is same .
I don't have one in the shop. I will check the schematic and see if I can help
Yeah.. ill just sell it
Not looking forward to taking that rear drag apart.
Take pictures and note the sequence that the parts are removed. That will help