Hi Adam- I know it's been almost a decade since you filmed this, but it is still the best information I've seen how how to disassemble and reassemble a Nexus 3. It's been a tremendous help today as I serviced mine. Many thanks!
Excellent video young man. Your step-by-step explanation was best "how-to" video I've watched.... and I've watched a lot. I'm in the middle of rebuilding two hubs on a couple Electra beach cruisers I just got. I only wish you could have covered how much, and where the grease goes during reassembly..... other than the obvious. Thank you again Adam for the video, TC.
Thank you very much. I just bought a bike with that kind of gearbox and it never had any maintenance. With your helpful video i dissasambled it and cleaned & lube and redo everithing and now is working properly. Thanks from Spain.
man i can't thank you enough for the video cuz when someone is on droogs and that someone starts wrenching apart shit that that someone has no business wrenching apart they end up with a fucking paper weight. but thanks to you all's well with the hub again and still rolling sexy. thanks again my man! p.s. stay off drugs kids
Thank you very much for this detailed video. That baby was crying like I was when my assembly slipped out of my hand and broke on the floor. Oh well, learn by doing.
Hi buddy, I believe you overtightened the first cone (approx. 8-9 minutes in). You’re supposed to tighten the cone as far as it will go, then back off 120degrees. Then lock in that position with the lock nut. This leaves a touch of play to prevent premature wear. Hope this helps!
It turns out that the 2 head bearings are opposed by a single tail bearing. It is a bitof a weird set up but you can safely tighten it right up to the shoulder. The brake side bearing takes all the tension adjustment
What is HTB lubricates? Am an retired automotive person . Understand white lithium grease, dark lithium, pariffin based grease, molybdenum infused grease & different categories of synthetic greases along with liquid gear grease. Thanx for the reply...excellent tutorial! Cheers
Well done! This has got to be the clearest how to video I've seen to date. Cheers. I do have a question; my daughter's bike came with a v-brake in addition to the coaster brake, I'd like to eliminate the coaster brake. Is it sufficient and possible to just remove the brake arm? Or a better way to go is to eliminate the brake shoes? Or does eliminating the brake shoes mess up the assembly for the bearing that sits on top? Thanks.
It should be ok to remove th ebrake shoes, it might pay to remove the 5 hardened rolls that activate the shoes, you need to take that surclip off. the braking action grinds hardened steel past hardened steel behind the same grease seal as the rest of the moving parts. with all this hardened metal muck floating around, wear sets in, as wear sets in, gaps increase, pins move, springs drop out, munched spring wire migrates into the bell housing, and jams it between 2 gears, when this happens the hub locks up but the wheel is still moving foward with a huge mechanical advantage over the NO TURN washer on the axle. the axle spins in the no turn washer, and the hub is cactused... all because some pea-brained dimwit put the brakes behind the same grease seal as the rest of the moving parts
Excellent video, thanks a lot! I nevertheless wonder somehow why you don't put some grease onto the bearings to lubricate them before the assembly? Thanks a lot for any answer!
Thank for the video, very helpful and instructive. I wish a would understand how the shifting works though. If you ever come to Austria beers are on me. Take care
the 3 gears are 1direct drive, 1ring drive , and 3 planet drive(dont quote me on that) the shifting is accomplished by the shape of the bell housing governing which set of ratchets engage the hub shell hope this helps
great to hear my work has helped you.....now all you have to do is take it apart another thousand times till you can strip it in 30 seconds flat, then teach someone else!
Thanks for a very instructive video. I have a few questions: When and where should one add lubrication to the assembly? What kind of lubrication should be used? Thanks, Daniel
+daniel hegner in the gears, and bearings, use slurpy grease, shimano puts out a special formulation, DO NOT use HTB it is too thick and viscous to let the ratchet work, i have seen about 4 hub lockups caused by some idiot using HTB
@Will Swift gotta be careful of mixing lighter hydrocarbons with heavier hydrocarbons, over time they have a tendency to separate and leave behind the heavier more viscous stuff
Thanks a lot Adam !!! Same hub in Shimano SG3C41 on Electra cruiser. It makes squeezing noises when breaking backpedal but otherwise rest works smooth. I am thinking to do this and submerge in oil lub shimano. Think that will solve the noise problem ? Should I also buy some black brake grease and put it before reassembly ? Do I need torque key or it’s fine just by adjusting with normal keys? Thanks a lot man
Use shimano white grease for breaks, Strip fully, wipe clean, inspect for foreign matter, broken bits of metal etc, reassemble, as per video. Can't go far wrong.
Hi mate! Love your video, and used it to dis- and resemble my gear hub. I got a blocking on 3rd gear. 1st fine, 2nd more resistance but when going on 3rd the pedals only turn 1/4-1/2 around before blocking completely. If I switch to the 2nd or 1st gear, and roll the back wheel backwards, the (new) push pin pops back and I can continue cycling. When staying in 3rd gear and rolling the wheel backwards, there is a clicking sound every 1/4-1/2 when the wheel turns. The hub was old when I got it and restored it, so no guarantee that it worked when I got the hub. What do you think is the problem? Best regards
I usually found that the quickest way to fix it was to strip it down to the bare mines, and reassemble, The strip down takes less than 30 seconds, the reassembly takes less than a minute, if you have your tools in a row. Look for extraneous broken shards of metal causing a constipated hub
@@AdamEdington Cheers mate! Might give it a go soon, but I am expecting the strip down and reassembly will take longer on my behalf ;) Thank you for your kind advice!
@@hunnicke1986 usually something is not moving as far as it should, or jammed up with some thing where it's not meant to be Push pin should have 14mm stickout
@@AdamEdingtoncheers! I couldn't find the missing part/link/fault so I stick to 2 out of 3 gears for now 😂 Now I got a new problem. On an advice from a friend, I removed a lot of the thick chain grease I had used before (I am new to this and learning) and then I gave the whole thing Caramba Premium MultiÖil. Now the foot brake screams when used. What would you suggest to fix it? Put the whole thing in transmission oil (as I got recommended from a local bike mechanic)? 🙂
@@hunnicke1986 ok that makes a bit more diagnostic sense. I'm going to need you to run a few more tests for me It's a bit hard for me to do this remotely, but Test number 1 attempt to shove it into 3rd gear and wait. 5 minutes and try , perhaps give the shell a knock or 2 every now and then Test number 2 are you certain that it is actually gears 1 and 2 that activate and not 2 and 3 and 1 is sticky How far did you strip the axle down, did you take the bell housing off the axle ...this is what shifts the engagement If the grease is too thick, the springs don't have enough oomph to drive that the pawls, which still think the bell housing is in position B when the bell housing is in position C creating a double ratio lock where gear 3 is actually engaged, but gear 2 fails to disengage See description for correct lubrication
So glad I watched this before tearing mine down, now I know I will just trash it buy a new bike. :) This looks far too complicated for my $20 beach cruiser.
Great video. By the way, do you know which tiny component is the piece that breaks/bends when the Nexus 3 gets stuck in gear? I have asked a few "experts"/bike techs, and nobody can tell me! Thank you.
the push rod tends to get bent and is a bit sticky in the hole down the centre of the axle, make sure you have the right length push rod, but there could be one or two springs come adrift jamming the bell housing to the axle, it might be worth taking apart, and giving it a scientific poke! it could be a badly adjusted or seized cable... the marker should be between the lines in second gear let me know what you find,
Astonishing, baffling slew of parts. Reading all the comments, & that the video instructor assembled a fleet of these... & used words like 'garbage'... I am curious if you have any idea why I would have almost lost my life on a bike with one of these hubs. It started riding 'rough'... but I continued to ride, since I only had 10 blocks to go/ college homework, etc. The bike literally fell apart on me, stopping dead in its tracks, with the chain falling off, & I went flying straight down into the cement, gaining a severe knee injury. I would like to do something with the bike I barely used. Would you suggest just installing some alternate hub? Any recommendation on how to make a bike with this hub safe so I don't die on it? Thanks.
the nexus 4 speed is a good one, i havnt had much to do with it, so cant say for certain, but the one i did take apart looked very well designed. Sturmy Archer 3 speed hubs are known to still work 50 years later, but they arent the most efficient i ride recumbent ICE Trikes these days, so much safer than Mulga Bill's "Two Wheeled Outlaw" im not surprised in the least about your unfortunate incident, we had a few lockups, usually the axle turned in the no turn washer, kind of a fusable link, but total system lockups arent unheard of i suggest youpost a video of pulling apart the offending hub, according to my video, and showing the damage, probably spring fragments or other fractured bits have ended up inside the bell housing and jammed two gears against eachother when you tried to shift gears stay safe, and again i highly recommend you switch to a three wheeled tadpole
@@AdamEdington How does this happen, that you would have spring fragments/ fractured bits, inside a sealed hub? And if springs broke, where do you get replacement parts? Thanks for your input.
@@cchemmes5831 as the brake is used, fine particles of hardened steel start grinding everything, clearances increase, pins migrate, springs drop out, sometimes the drive input sheds some fragments off the thin lip. I never got to order replacement parts, just cannibalise another hub for spare parts
@@AdamEdington Thanks for the input. Mine was new/ used only a few times before crashing, so that seems messed up for a sealed, supposedly high quality hub. My brake is a separate roller brake as well.
@@cchemmes5831 ok, did one of the cam rollers come loose? We did get a fleet of those a little while before I left, never had any problems with them so only poked my nose in once.. so let me postulate from ignorance and partial knowledge.. There should be a circlip to retain the hardened rollers, maybe the anchor bolt came loose, Send me a photo of the damage, edington.machining@gmail.com
My dissambly ends at 2:40, when one little spring went off for ever! - I would prefer to lay down the parts in the way when they appear. A not so dark paper or a textile on the work bench will help to prevent a chaos of things. An explosition drawing from Shimano‘s hub will help to put the parts together, and is a good training to study technical instructions. - I did never seen to put the vice in this way at the right end on the work bench. But its a good tip, when the mechanic is a right hand trained person.
Hello there Adam. So, if I understand this correctly, I simply take of the brake actuator, and then the entire internal assembly comes right out? (I need to paint the hub housing black...)
I find these parts with concentric circles perhaps to decrease surface friction. its like finger prints sort of. Also I found this part with a hex or octogonal clip to prevent overtightening and stripping of bolts is like a octagon but with rounded corners like circles for extra friction at vertices.
Am I right in thinking that there doesn't need to be any grease in the "guts"? Just the special brake shoe grease? My 3-speed keeps skipping in 2nd but absolutely fine in 1st and 3rd
Check the springs on the pawls, they may be damaged, and not forcing the proper engagement. Check the length of the push pin, it should have 14mm of stick out Check the alignment of the indicator in the gear shifter clamp on mechanism @ gear 2 The gears should have a bit of white grease in them
применил голландское масло фирмы Kroon Oil=Complex PTFE White Grease EP2-600 грамм,отлично работает,первый день,было туговато и медленно срабатывал переключатель,а дальше как новенький,это при том что до этого пробовал другие масла,добавлял во внутрь масло моторное,все равно скрежетало ужасно,как будто ломается,а потом начинало само тормозить.После пременения белого масла голландского,все направилось.Проблема была-заднее колесо было в воде,немного заржавело и масло залипло и не работало переключение передач,разобрал все и промыл бензином,далее при сборке применил голландское масло,консистенции густой сметаны.
so if i want to regrease the hub the way shimano seems to instruct i only need to do like the first minute of this video and put it in oilbath and after that put some vaseline on bearings? that doesn't seem too hard.
Yes, it isn't hard, but the difficulty comes when you run a fleet of 500 of these things for general public hire, pretty soon you get 3 hub lockups per week, the axle spins in the no turn washer, and screws the entire hub. In my opinion the designer of these hubs was smoking something weird.
FYI grease is very use specific, High temp grease is not good on a bicycle as the bearings never get to high enough temps... High pressure is the same.. Thick grease will never get thinner and move easily if it doesn't heat up.. also using Ceramic grease is great for racing if you repack your bearings frequently, Yes, the movement will be very light and smooth and FAST - But, most ceramic grease has no way to stop water or dirt from making it go away (it will wash out easily).. the best all purpose grease is premium waterproof bicycle grease - Ive used Phil's tenacious, Bullseye, White Lighting Clear, Finish Line Premium (Currently using it attached to their Bicycle Grease gun) - JUST SAY NO TO AUTOMOTIVE GREASE -
Hola, ¿Se puede usar o adaptar un piñon de 3 o mas coronas igual como son las velocidades de una Brompton?, En mi país Argentina estas masas son baratas pero quedan muy cortas con solo 3 velocidades. Saludos cordiales desde Buenos Aires
very cool video i have a question i may please ok first i am novice bike builder i am building my first custom bicycle and i am thinking on using this hub but what i want to know is if if it will work on 100mm dropouts and if not can i swap out the axle and put one that it will work?
There are two actuator pin length 82 and 87mm. If you just converted your kids bike and it got ony two gears, you probably need the short pin. The long one can just be ground down at the inner part to make it fit. But if you watch this video, the gear is already apart and you are looking how to place the dropped sears...
Thank you for this video, Adam. It helped me a lot with trying to refurbish the gear unit and brake of my bicycle while I was sitting in fact on the other side of the world. Good idea to add some close up photos at the end. Well done! And thank you to my English teacher, as well 😂
Could you in theory place the pawls and pawl springs in the reverse orientation to create a hub that ratchets in the opposite direction? (Mounting the wheel so that the chain is on the left side vs. the standard right side)
the most common fault in my experience running a fleet of 500, is for enough wear to open up some clearances... pin drops out far enough to let a spring drop out of the drive side bearing assembly , spring works its way to gears and gets munched, munched spring bits work their way into the bell housing, and it jams between 2 gears and locks the axle. once this happens, ya kinda know about it! next most common is for the drive side bearing housing to fracture at the thin lip and shed hardened shards into the works... same effect
i have a 3 speed adult husky tricycle and the reference number on the hub SG-3C41 nexus inter 3 the problem is that the 3rd speed does not work would i need to buy the entire hub kit? hub drive? shifter/crank?
Most likely the cable isnt adjusted properly set shifter on 2 and the pin pusher should be between the lines. Next most likely, wrong length push pin... a bit of high tensile fencing wire cut to the right length will do options are 81mm or 86 from memory
Got a new bike with this hub. I just assemble it but when I changed from 1 to 2 or 3 the hub makes a ticking noise. I haven’t adjust it. It sounds like when a normal derailleur wants to change and the chain won’t go.
take it apart as per video, check that nothing untoward is going on, put back together, set bell crank between the lines on gear 2, and check the length of the push pin, 81mm or 86mm then get back to me
Thanks for the fantastic vid! I thought I had damaged my pawls on this hub. It was making cracking sounds and slipping. Using this video, I replaced the entire internal assembly with a new one and the same issue is still there. Is it possible for the hub shell to fail first (e.g. the pawls are fine but they’re not getting enough bite on the shell?)
Clean away the grease, with some citrus based(d-limonine) cleaner, and inspect all surfaces. Chech pin length, Check the new set of guts isn't knackered, check all bearing race surfaces for brinelling. Check spacer washer between brake reaction arm and bike frame.
My hub won’t go into first gear using the hand shifter. I can stick a pin into the axle and manually get it into first if I jingle it about. Something mechanical is amiss inside. I’m going to take it apart per this video and see if I can find the problem. Has anyone here had this same problem, and what was the cause? Thank you for a great instructional video!
@@brythecracker the other source of fragments is the rim of the drive side bearing assembly with those opposing pals.this piece is very prone to shedding hardened(brittle) fragments into the works..
Hi Adam beat to see an Aussie doing bike videos. If you are in Melbourne please come and visit us at Back2Bikes. We recycle bikes in Melbourne. I will have a go at servicing an inter 3 after watching your video
Adam Edington stripped it down today, degreased and regreased, i thought it was the grease shimano use, i find it solidifys after a few years normally a problem with shifters
Crazy question, can I convert my C/B version into a freewheel version? I have no use for the C/B, that's just the way the wheel-set came and until recently I wasn't using that wheel-set off road.
if i understand your question correctly, it is just a matter of leaving the brake shoes out, but make sure you have an alternate braking system on the back wheel
The bike I have it on has front and rear Cantilever hand brakes. It was originally configured as a hybrid MTN bike (Rigid frame) that looks like a beach cruiser AND has 26" BMX angles.....it's a nutty bike. It has a derailleur hanger on it, but I converted it to internal gears. I had a Nexus 7spd on it, but my Brother talked me out of that wheel set sometime in the 90s.....so I got this wheel set with the 3spd.
Can you make a vid showing how to accomplish taking the brake shoes out? I can "kinda" see what you are referring to as "brake shoes" but you don't go into much detail on that process.
Watching the vid again, at the 10:56 mark, are you suggesting one can merely leave that expanding brake shoe mechanism out of the re-assembly? It seems that there would be something go horribly wrong....lol....correct me if I am wrong please.
Hi Adam- I know it's been almost a decade since you filmed this, but it is still the best information I've seen how how to disassemble and reassemble a Nexus 3. It's been a tremendous help today as I serviced mine. Many thanks!
Excellent video young man. Your step-by-step explanation was best "how-to" video I've watched.... and I've watched a lot. I'm in the middle of rebuilding two hubs on a couple Electra beach cruisers I just got. I only wish you could have covered how much, and where the grease goes during reassembly..... other than the obvious. Thank you again Adam for the video, TC.
Everywhere, and as much as you can fit! 😁 Just a joke, but you can apply a liberal amount of Shimano white grease all over the guts of the Nexus.
Pleasure watching someone who knows their craft & can very simply explain the process with the specific points, thanks.
Thank you very much. I just bought a bike with that kind of gearbox and it never had any maintenance. With your helpful video i dissasambled it and cleaned & lube and redo everithing and now is working properly. Thanks from Spain.
The last minute was the most helpful information. I didn't know what direction those pins went. Thank you..
man i can't thank you enough for the video cuz when someone is on droogs and that someone starts wrenching apart shit that that someone has no business wrenching apart they end up with a fucking paper weight. but thanks to you all's well with the hub again and still rolling sexy. thanks again my man!
p.s. stay off drugs kids
I knew there's a way to strip down the axle unit! Thanks, it's very instructive and helpful.
Shimano must not like you revealing nexus secrets. Thank you here from Brazil.
I give Glory to God for your life!
Thank you very much for this detailed video. That baby was crying like I was when my assembly slipped out of my hand and broke on the floor. Oh well, learn by doing.
The best "how-to" video I've watched ever.
Thank you so much Adam. I had never disassembled a Nexus 3 speed hub previously and was a little cautious. Your video to all of the guess work out.
Thanks, your explanation gave me the confidence to buy a project bike with a potentially worn Nexus hub.
just purchased a dockland union with the dirtiest hub ive ever come across. This video is immensely helpful
Thanks from Brazil! This is pure art!
A huge thank you for this! May good things come your way!
Hi buddy, I believe you overtightened the first cone (approx. 8-9 minutes in). You’re supposed to tighten the cone as far as it will go, then back off 120degrees. Then lock in that position with the lock nut. This leaves a touch of play to prevent premature wear. Hope this helps!
It turns out that the 2 head bearings are opposed by a single tail bearing. It is a bitof a weird set up but you can safely tighten it right up to the shoulder. The brake side bearing takes all the tension adjustment
What is HTB lubricates?
Am an retired automotive person .
Understand white lithium grease, dark lithium, pariffin based grease, molybdenum infused grease & different categories of synthetic greases along with liquid gear grease. Thanx for the reply...excellent tutorial!
Cheers
High temperature bearing grease
Thanks a lot mate! This made me figure out what was wrong with my bike and now it works like swiss clockwork!
ha ha, the best this piece of schiser can work is like a swiss garbage truck
2nd time i'm using this instruction and it worked again! Thanks mate for posting this!
Fantastic video, super helpful and from a fellow Aussie! Many thanks Adam!
Well done! This has got to be the clearest how to video I've seen to date. Cheers.
I do have a question; my daughter's bike came with a v-brake in addition to the coaster brake, I'd like to eliminate the coaster brake. Is it sufficient and possible to just remove the brake arm? Or a better way to go is to eliminate the brake shoes? Or does eliminating the brake shoes mess up the assembly for the bearing that sits on top? Thanks.
It should be ok to remove th ebrake shoes, it might pay to remove the 5 hardened rolls that activate the shoes, you need to take that surclip off.
the braking action grinds hardened steel past hardened steel behind the same grease seal as the rest of the moving parts. with all this hardened metal muck floating around, wear sets in, as wear sets in, gaps increase, pins move, springs drop out, munched spring wire migrates into the bell housing, and jams it between 2 gears, when this happens the hub locks up but the wheel is still moving foward with a huge mechanical advantage over the NO TURN washer on the axle. the axle spins in the no turn washer, and the hub is cactused... all because some pea-brained dimwit put the brakes behind the same grease seal as the rest of the moving parts
Can you post a vid of exactly what you are talking about? I'd hate to mess it up.
You explained everything like a king!!!
Thanks for the video, I managed to fix my bicycle watching it!
Brilliant job! I'm going to overhaul my granddaughter's hub. This helps a lot.
Excellent video, thanks a lot! I nevertheless wonder somehow why you don't put some grease onto the bearings to lubricate them before the assembly? Thanks a lot for any answer!
This took a number of takes, so rather than clean it each time, which would have been time consuming, I decided to film it dry
Thank for the video, very helpful and instructive.
I wish a would understand how the shifting works though.
If you ever come to Austria beers are on me. Take care
the 3 gears are 1direct drive, 1ring drive , and 3 planet drive(dont quote me on that) the shifting is accomplished by the shape of the bell housing governing which set of ratchets engage the hub shell
hope this helps
th-cam.com/video/mUyv7mLgCFQ/w-d-xo.html
Thankyou so much, glad to know it's still helping people
Most detailed diy video on TH-cam
Thanks from the Netherlands!!
Very instructive, very practical. Wonderfully concise and direct.
Sunscreen? I like that
*looks out window* best use for it just now.
Thanks Adam from Ukraine. Your video help me
Excellent, thanks! You got very clear way to explain the assembly/disassembly.
Adam , thank you so much for the video. It is very clear and helped me to vix this hub that I was trying for days.
great to hear my work has helped you.....now all you have to do is take it apart another thousand times till you can strip it in 30 seconds flat, then teach someone else!
Now I know why I have a SA RD3 and XL-RD5w. LOL. DRUM brakes FTW!!!
Great video anyway.
Adam, thanks for this.
Thanks for a very instructive video. I have a few questions:
When and where should one add lubrication to the assembly?
What kind of lubrication should be used?
Thanks, Daniel
+daniel hegner
in the gears, and bearings, use slurpy grease, shimano puts out a special formulation, DO NOT use HTB it is too thick and viscous to let the ratchet work, i have seen about 4 hub lockups caused by some idiot using HTB
@Will Swift gotta be careful of mixing lighter hydrocarbons with heavier hydrocarbons, over time they have a tendency to separate and leave behind the heavier more viscous stuff
Does the apply for nexus 5 speed when it comes to the circlip remover? And how do I remember the position of all those parts?
Thanks a lot Adam !!! Same hub in Shimano SG3C41 on Electra cruiser. It makes squeezing noises when breaking backpedal but otherwise rest works smooth. I am thinking to do this and submerge in oil lub shimano. Think that will solve the noise problem ? Should I also buy some black brake grease and put it before reassembly ? Do I need torque key or it’s fine just by adjusting with normal keys? Thanks a lot man
Use shimano white grease for breaks,
Strip fully, wipe clean, inspect for foreign matter, broken bits of metal etc, reassemble, as per video.
Can't go far wrong.
Brilliant video, really great explanation.
Thanks from New Zealand
Hi mate!
Love your video, and used it to dis- and resemble my gear hub.
I got a blocking on 3rd gear. 1st fine, 2nd more resistance but when going on 3rd the pedals only turn 1/4-1/2 around before blocking completely. If I switch to the 2nd or 1st gear, and roll the back wheel backwards, the (new) push pin pops back and I can continue cycling.
When staying in 3rd gear and rolling the wheel backwards, there is a clicking sound every 1/4-1/2 when the wheel turns.
The hub was old when I got it and restored it, so no guarantee that it worked when I got the hub.
What do you think is the problem?
Best regards
I usually found that the quickest way to fix it was to strip it down to the bare mines, and reassemble,
The strip down takes less than 30 seconds, the reassembly takes less than a minute, if you have your tools in a row.
Look for extraneous broken shards of metal causing a constipated hub
@@AdamEdington Cheers mate!
Might give it a go soon, but I am expecting the strip down and reassembly will take longer on my behalf ;)
Thank you for your kind advice!
@@hunnicke1986 usually
something is not moving as far as it should, or jammed up with some thing where it's not meant to be
Push pin should have 14mm stickout
@@AdamEdingtoncheers!
I couldn't find the missing part/link/fault so I stick to 2 out of 3 gears for now 😂
Now I got a new problem. On an advice from a friend, I removed a lot of the thick chain grease I had used before (I am new to this and learning) and then I gave the whole thing Caramba Premium MultiÖil. Now the foot brake screams when used. What would you suggest to fix it? Put the whole thing in transmission oil (as I got recommended from a local bike mechanic)? 🙂
@@hunnicke1986 ok that makes a bit more diagnostic sense.
I'm going to need you to run a few more tests for me
It's a bit hard for me to do this remotely, but
Test number 1 attempt to shove it into 3rd gear and wait. 5 minutes and try , perhaps give the shell a knock or 2 every now and then
Test number 2 are you certain that it is actually gears 1 and 2 that activate and not 2 and 3 and 1 is sticky
How far did you strip the axle down, did you take the bell housing off the axle ...this is what shifts the engagement
If the grease is too thick, the springs don't have enough oomph to drive that the pawls, which still think the bell housing is in position B when the bell housing is in position C creating a double ratio lock where gear 3 is actually engaged, but gear 2 fails to disengage
See description for correct lubrication
So glad I watched this before tearing mine down, now I know I will just trash it buy a new bike. :) This looks far too complicated for my $20 beach cruiser.
Thank you Sir. Excellent tutorial.
I think this is the strongest hub thick pawls ever made isn't that right?
Wowww now i know to removing and return
Thnks for d vedio
Great video. By the way, do you know which tiny component is the piece that breaks/bends when the Nexus 3 gets stuck in gear? I have asked a few "experts"/bike techs, and nobody can tell me! Thank you.
the push rod tends to get bent and is a bit sticky in the hole down the centre of the axle, make sure you have the right length push rod, but there could be one or two springs come adrift jamming the bell housing to the axle, it might be worth taking apart, and giving it a scientific poke!
it could be a badly adjusted or seized cable... the marker should be between the lines in second gear
let me know what you find,
Astonishing, baffling slew of parts. Reading all the comments, & that the video instructor assembled a fleet of these... & used words like 'garbage'... I am curious if you have any idea why I would have almost lost my life on a bike with one of these hubs. It started riding 'rough'... but I continued to ride, since I only had 10 blocks to go/ college homework, etc. The bike literally fell apart on me, stopping dead in its tracks, with the chain falling off, & I went flying straight down into the cement, gaining a severe knee injury. I would like to do something with the bike I barely used. Would you suggest just installing some alternate hub? Any recommendation on how to make a bike with this hub safe so I don't die on it? Thanks.
the nexus 4 speed is a good one, i havnt had much to do with it, so cant say for certain, but the one i did take apart looked very well designed.
Sturmy Archer 3 speed hubs are known to still work 50 years later, but they arent the most efficient
i ride recumbent ICE Trikes these days, so much safer than Mulga Bill's "Two Wheeled Outlaw"
im not surprised in the least about your unfortunate incident, we had a few lockups, usually the axle turned in the no turn washer, kind of a fusable link, but total system lockups arent unheard of
i suggest youpost a video of pulling apart the offending hub, according to my video, and showing the damage, probably spring fragments or other fractured bits have ended up inside the bell housing and jammed two gears against eachother when you tried to shift gears
stay safe, and again i highly recommend you switch to a three wheeled tadpole
@@AdamEdington How does this happen, that you would have spring fragments/ fractured bits, inside a sealed hub? And if springs broke, where do you get replacement parts? Thanks for your input.
@@cchemmes5831 as the brake is used, fine particles of hardened steel start grinding everything, clearances increase, pins migrate, springs drop out, sometimes the drive input sheds some fragments off the thin lip.
I never got to order replacement parts, just cannibalise another hub for spare parts
@@AdamEdington Thanks for the input. Mine was new/ used only a few times before crashing, so that seems messed up for a sealed, supposedly high quality hub. My brake is a separate roller brake as well.
@@cchemmes5831 ok, did one of the cam rollers come loose?
We did get a fleet of those a little while before I left, never had any problems with them so only poked my nose in once.. so let me postulate from ignorance and partial knowledge.. There should be a circlip to retain the hardened rollers, maybe the anchor bolt came loose,
Send me a photo of the damage, edington.machining@gmail.com
It takes intelligence to do that. Intelligent design is the name of the game.
Well done very good vids ty for sharing
My dissambly ends at 2:40, when one little spring went off for ever! - I would prefer to lay down the parts in the way when they appear. A not so dark paper or a textile on the work bench will help to prevent a chaos of things. An explosition drawing from Shimano‘s hub will help to put the parts together, and is a good training to study technical instructions. - I did never seen to put the vice in this way at the right end on the work bench. But its a good tip, when the mechanic is a right hand trained person.
im a leftie, in a right handers world
Hello there Adam. So, if I understand this correctly, I simply take of the brake actuator, and then the entire internal assembly comes right out? (I need to paint the hub housing black...)
@@mortenhansen3455 yes it takes a little click to get it out, which is the plastic grease guard on drive side doing it's thing
Great video, perfect for first time gear hub technician, thanks alot! ++++++
Hola, ¿a estas mazas de cambios internos se les puede sumar 3 piñones o coronas externas, asi como tienen las Brompton?. saludos cordiales
I do not speak spanish
I find these parts with concentric circles perhaps to decrease surface friction. its like finger prints sort of. Also I found this part with a hex or octogonal clip to prevent overtightening and stripping of bolts is like a octagon but with rounded corners like circles for extra friction at vertices.
what parts are you talking about?
Am I right in thinking that there doesn't need to be any grease in the "guts"? Just the special brake shoe grease? My 3-speed keeps skipping in 2nd but absolutely fine in 1st and 3rd
Check the springs on the pawls, they may be damaged, and not forcing the proper engagement.
Check the length of the push pin, it should have 14mm of stick out
Check the alignment of the indicator in the gear shifter clamp on mechanism @ gear 2
The gears should have a bit of white grease in them
excellent video, thanks heaps but what about oil or greasing the unit. does it need an oil bath
white shimano grease, do not use HTB... it isnt slurpy enough
Thank you for a great demonstration!
Pro tips. This is great!
применил голландское масло фирмы Kroon Oil=Complex PTFE White Grease EP2-600 грамм,отлично работает,первый день,было туговато и медленно срабатывал переключатель,а дальше как новенький,это при том что до этого пробовал другие масла,добавлял во внутрь масло моторное,все равно скрежетало ужасно,как будто ломается,а потом начинало само тормозить.После пременения белого масла голландского,все направилось.Проблема была-заднее колесо было в воде,немного заржавело и масло залипло и не работало переключение передач,разобрал все и промыл бензином,далее при сборке применил голландское масло,консистенции густой сметаны.
"Real men build bikes." ~ Wright Brothers
so if i want to regrease the hub the way shimano seems to instruct i only need to do like the first minute of this video and put it in oilbath and after that put some vaseline on bearings? that doesn't seem too hard.
Yes, it isn't hard, but the difficulty comes when you run a fleet of 500 of these things for general public hire, pretty soon you get 3 hub lockups per week, the axle spins in the no turn washer, and screws the entire hub. In my opinion the designer of these hubs was smoking something weird.
@@freesocialrockclimbing haha yeah it definitely has some flaws :D
FYI grease is very use specific, High temp grease is not good on a bicycle as the bearings never get to high enough temps... High pressure is the same.. Thick grease will never get thinner and move easily if it doesn't heat up.. also using Ceramic grease is great for racing if you repack your bearings frequently, Yes, the movement will be very light and smooth and FAST - But, most ceramic grease has no way to stop water or dirt from making it go away (it will wash out easily).. the best all purpose grease is premium waterproof bicycle grease - Ive used Phil's tenacious, Bullseye, White Lighting Clear, Finish Line Premium (Currently using it attached to their Bicycle Grease gun) - JUST SAY NO TO AUTOMOTIVE GREASE -
The question for me was what grease to use on the bearing on the brake side. Ended up using regular bearing grease.
Hola, ¿Se puede usar o adaptar un piñon de 3 o mas coronas igual como son las velocidades de una Brompton?, En mi país Argentina estas masas son baratas pero quedan muy cortas con solo 3 velocidades.
Saludos cordiales desde Buenos Aires
English
Mi no habla Espanol
very cool video i have a question i may please ok first i am novice bike builder i am building my first custom bicycle and i am thinking on using this hub but what i want to know is if if it will work on 100mm dropouts and if not can i swap out the axle and put one that it will work?
Get a off center sprocket
At HSBC bicycle.com😁
Hbbc bicycle. Com
Thanks for this video, it helped me a lot
Thank u bro,,,,,! Your explane very very clear....!
How much of SG-3C41 will replace SG-3C40 ? Are they interchangeable ?
Thanks, this was a great help!
Great video, helped a lot… would be better if it had higher resolution and better lighting
There are two actuator pin length 82 and 87mm. If you just converted your kids bike and it got ony two gears, you probably need the short pin. The long one can just be ground down at the inner part to make it fit. But if you watch this video, the gear is already apart and you are looking how to place the dropped sears...
VomDeich , their is another length of the actuator pin of 95mm. Used sometimes in Hollandbikes, essential is the length of 14mm outside the axle!
You saved my arse .a lot of time and curse words haha Thankyou
Thank you for this video, Adam. It helped me a lot with trying to refurbish the gear unit and brake of my bicycle while I was sitting in fact on the other side of the world. Good idea to add some close up photos at the end. Well done! And thank you to my English teacher, as well 😂
Could you in theory place the pawls and pawl springs in the reverse orientation to create a hub that ratchets in the opposite direction? (Mounting the wheel so that the chain is on the left side vs. the standard right side)
The matching cutouts in hub shell would need to be reversed as well
Thanks really appreciate
Which part is most likely to be worn or broken when the ting starts to like not grab or skip gears? In other words, is there a common fault?
the most common fault in my experience running a fleet of 500, is for enough wear to open up some clearances... pin drops out far enough to let a spring drop out of the drive side bearing assembly , spring works its way to gears and gets munched, munched spring bits work their way into the bell housing, and it jams between 2 gears and locks the axle. once this happens, ya kinda know about it!
next most common is for the drive side bearing housing to fracture at the thin lip and shed hardened shards into the works... same effect
@@AdamEdington Thanks a lot, Adam, and for the video which is excellent. Quess I´ll go for a total replacement - as usual:)
So you don't bother with lubricating any of the internal mechanics?
After several takes, and many bloopers, it was decided to strip out all the grease to clarify the shape of the parts
The best ever👍👍
good explane thats what i need to here thanks
And a crying baby in the background. Perfect:)
Do you know which model is this?
Is it the SG-3C41 by any chance?
Dunno, it's years since I had a good look as I'm no longer volunteering there, cos I got a job
i have a 3 speed adult husky tricycle and the reference number on the hub SG-3C41 nexus inter 3
the problem is that the 3rd speed does not work
would i need to buy the entire hub kit?
hub drive? shifter/crank?
Most likely the cable isnt adjusted properly set shifter on 2 and the pin pusher should be between the lines.
Next most likely, wrong length push pin... a bit of high tensile fencing wire cut to the right length will do options are 81mm or 86 from memory
@@AdamEdington thanks adam
The push pin should 14mm stay out of the axle!
Wow. How many times have you done this?
I maintained a fleet of 500+ of these errrrrr... things
Does the silver cap have to be on the opposite side of the hub going motorized.
i assume you mean the brake reaction arm.... this goes on the non drive side
Thanks a lot for this video!!
For little things you must zoom it like seting the little spring.
Got a new bike with this hub. I just assemble it but when I changed from 1 to 2 or 3 the hub makes a ticking noise. I haven’t adjust it. It sounds like when a normal derailleur wants to change and the chain won’t go.
take it apart as per video, check that nothing untoward is going on, put back together, set bell crank between the lines on gear 2, and check the length of the push pin, 81mm or 86mm
then get back to me
Adam Edington Thanks a lot. Will do. Awesome stuff.
Great video. Thanks.
Thanks for the fantastic vid! I thought I had damaged my pawls on this hub. It was making cracking sounds and slipping. Using this video, I replaced the entire internal assembly with a new one and the same issue is still there. Is it possible for the hub shell to fail first (e.g. the pawls are fine but they’re not getting enough bite on the shell?)
Clean away the grease, with some citrus based(d-limonine) cleaner, and inspect all surfaces.
Chech pin length,
Check the new set of guts isn't knackered, check all bearing race surfaces for brinelling.
Check spacer washer between brake reaction arm and bike frame.
My hub won’t go into first gear using the hand shifter. I can stick a pin into the axle and manually get it into first if I jingle it about. Something mechanical is amiss inside. I’m going to take it apart per this video and see if I can find the problem. Has anyone here had this same problem, and what was the cause?
Thank you for a great instructional video!
keep yer eyes peeled for spring fragments jamming up the bell housing
@@AdamEdington Thank you Adam👍 I’ll let you know what I find.
@@AdamEdington If it is spring fragments, then I suppose I’ll be in need of a spring.
@@brythecracker the other source of fragments is the rim of the drive side bearing assembly with those opposing pals.this piece is very prone to shedding hardened(brittle) fragments into the works..
@@AdamEdington Thanks Adam👍
Hi Adam beat to see an Aussie doing bike videos. If you are in Melbourne please come and visit us at Back2Bikes. We recycle bikes in Melbourne. I will have a go at servicing an inter 3 after watching your video
Ok, I´ve read the article now. SG-3C40 and ...41 are not the same.
Thanks, useful video
what cleaner have to be use?
have you ever stripped a nexus d8? i got one booked in and slightly stiff i wanna strip it down but ive never really done it before?
Adam Edington stripped it down today, degreased and regreased, i thought it was the grease shimano use, i find it solidifys after a few years normally a problem with shifters
make sure you dont use HTB it is toooo viscous and will stuff things up
Crazy question, can I convert my C/B version into a freewheel version? I have no use for the C/B, that's just the way the wheel-set came and until recently I wasn't using that wheel-set off road.
if i understand your question correctly, it is just a matter of leaving the brake shoes out, but make sure you have an alternate braking system on the back wheel
The bike I have it on has front and rear Cantilever hand brakes. It was originally configured as a hybrid MTN bike (Rigid frame) that looks like a beach cruiser AND has 26" BMX angles.....it's a nutty bike. It has a derailleur hanger on it, but I converted it to internal gears. I had a Nexus 7spd on it, but my Brother talked me out of that wheel set sometime in the 90s.....so I got this wheel set with the 3spd.
Can you make a vid showing how to accomplish taking the brake shoes out? I can "kinda" see what you are referring to as "brake shoes" but you don't go into much detail on that process.
Watching the vid again, at the 10:56 mark, are you suggesting one can merely leave that expanding brake shoe mechanism out of the re-assembly? It seems that there would be something go horribly wrong....lol....correct me if I am wrong please.
just take the brake shoes out then
Thank you, Sir!
Thanks!
you got quite a few hits on this one adam
nice job dude
do the the ball bearings in the brake actuator arm go in loose?
nope, you doubtless have to pull the whole thing apart and pull out every piece of broken cage especially from the bell housing
thnks man that was helpfull
Great vid, thx