A title mistake at 12:19 - the cone was in fact loosened, not tightened. For any questions or comments, please use the BikeGremlin.Net forum: www.bikegremlin.net/ Relja
The Shimano manual recommends simply soaking the internal assembly in some special mineral oil for 90 seconds, letting it drip for a minute, then optionally applying some light grease on the pinions (satellite gears). This method doesn't require disassembling the internals. People who don't feel like spending so much on Shimano's fancy oil find that a standard 75W90 GL-4 MT-1 gear oil works well in practice.
could I bother you for some tech advice? I bought a lightly used elliptigo that uses the 8 speed alfine. It's lightly used, but is around 10 years old, looks like it has been stored inside and the brakes are in good shape. I know that these hubs are typically very robust. The shifting is a bit abnormal, I had REI install a new shift cable and they seem to have had the same issue I had: when the cable is installed per specs, the yellow-bar indicator is in the 12:00 or 12:30 position in gear 5, not gear 4 like it is supposed to be. In gear 4, it's more like 1:00 or 2:00, not visible behind the frame. I know that when the yellow bars align, this means the hub is in gear 4. The problem is that I can only achieve this when the shifter says '5'. Thus, I can only shift 3 gears above this. This means that I can only use gears 1-7. The elliptigo is back at REI and they are looking again. When I was tinkering at home, I could see the shifter shift through all 8 positions (7 shifts), but as soon as the shift cable is put in place, it seems like there is something involving the tension where in gear 4 the indicator is a bit too far clockwise than it is supposed to be (making me lose a gear). Do you have any ideas what would cause this? I do have one other elliptigo that works fine, so it is something particular to this 2nd one that I bought. Thanks in advance for any insight.
Hi, thanks for the great video. Just a quick question: Why use different lubrications? Won't the oil spread over time and create a weird mix with the grease? Would it be possible or harmful if I were to ONLY use grease on all moving parts?
These big hubs are phenomenal pieces of engineering. I used to have a Nexus 7 for a couple of years and loved it. Recently I've seen a few disassembled and service here on TH-cam and quite frankly it has really put me off them. I love the simplicity and ease of service of the Sturmey Archer 3 speeds, but their range is too limited. I really want something in between for casual city cycling, shopping, etc on a vintage upright bike. What do you think of the Sturmey Archer 5 speed? Many thanks. 👍
I haven't seen (not to mention serviced) a Sturmey Archer 5-speed hub (the 3-speed ones are quite durable). I believe that Dan Burkhart has forgotten more than I've ever known about geared hubs (to use that Serbian phrase). :) I'd ask him. His channel: www.youtube.com/@2wagondragon Relja
I got to the point of disassembling the internal assembly (i.e. right after removing the internal split ring) but the two halves won't come apart :( is this because I accidentally fiddled with the gear selector at some point after removing the wheel from the bike?
I'm not sure. Maybe it just got stuck (rust or similar). You can manually move the gears (as shown at 4:34 in the video) and see if it helps wiggle the part out.
@BikeGremlinUS manually moving the gears did the trick! I was worried I was hurting it because it made a sharp clicking noise but rotating the actuator all the way around allowed me to separate them :) thank you
There is an US company that couldn't do without reducing the number of gears to 2 and actuating it all by a bluetooth gimmick wirelessly. And they have the audacity to claim over 98% efficiency.
A title mistake at 12:19 - the cone was in fact loosened, not tightened.
For any questions or comments, please use the BikeGremlin.Net forum:
www.bikegremlin.net/
Relja
The Shimano manual recommends simply soaking the internal assembly in some special mineral oil for 90 seconds, letting it drip for a minute, then optionally applying some light grease on the pinions (satellite gears). This method doesn't require disassembling the internals. People who don't feel like spending so much on Shimano's fancy oil find that a standard 75W90 GL-4 MT-1 gear oil works well in practice.
@@Frostbiker ATF to clean in it and fresh ATF re-lube it. Grease around the bearings. 👍💯🇬🇧
I thank you so much for this tutorial. Just followed your steps yesterday and serviced my Alfine-8 on Elops Speed 920.
Cool. Glad to hear it helped. :)
Relja
Eeeee momci pozdrav iz Dublina od bike mehanicara kanal vam je do jaja samo nastavite gledao sam nexus kako ste otvorili i servisirali. Brutalni ste
Hvala, trudimo se. :)
Relja
Jeste doma ili u US?
U Novom Sadu.
Ali imam(o) kanal i na srpskohrvatskom (BikeGremlinRS), tako da smo dodali sufikse da bi se izbegle zabune. :)
@@BikeGremlinUS eeee znaci imam jako dobrog prijatelja iz Mitrovice tako da ako bog da sada u maju mozda navratim za NS mogli bi neku kavu.
@@BikeGremlinUS ajde u Dublin raditi
Satelite gears (that have marks for alligment) have needle bearings. So after degreaser they should be greased.
this is the best video. thank you so much.
could I bother you for some tech advice? I bought a lightly used elliptigo that uses the 8 speed alfine. It's lightly used, but is around 10 years old, looks like it has been stored inside and the brakes are in good shape. I know that these hubs are typically very robust. The shifting is a bit abnormal, I had REI install a new shift cable and they seem to have had the same issue I had: when the cable is installed per specs, the yellow-bar indicator is in the 12:00 or 12:30 position in gear 5, not gear 4 like it is supposed to be. In gear 4, it's more like 1:00 or 2:00, not visible behind the frame. I know that when the yellow bars align, this means the hub is in gear 4. The problem is that I can only achieve this when the shifter says '5'. Thus, I can only shift 3 gears above this. This means that I can only use gears 1-7. The elliptigo is back at REI and they are looking again. When I was tinkering at home, I could see the shifter shift through all 8 positions (7 shifts), but as soon as the shift cable is put in place, it seems like there is something involving the tension where in gear 4 the indicator is a bit too far clockwise than it is supposed to be (making me lose a gear). Do you have any ideas what would cause this? I do have one other elliptigo that works fine, so it is something particular to this 2nd one that I bought. Thanks in advance for any insight.
Hi,
I recommend using the bikegremlin.net forum for any such technical questions.
Relja
Well done. You make it look easy. Too bad about the Rammstein.
Hi, thanks for the great video.
Just a quick question: Why use different lubrications? Won't the oil spread over time and create a weird mix with the grease? Would it be possible or harmful if I were to ONLY use grease on all moving parts?
Please use the bikegremlin.net forum for any technical questions, help or advice.
Relja
Great video my friends. Brilliant and helpful. Danke 🙏
These big hubs are phenomenal pieces of engineering. I used to have a Nexus 7 for a couple of years and loved it. Recently I've seen a few disassembled and service here on TH-cam and quite frankly it has really put me off them. I love the simplicity and ease of service of the Sturmey Archer 3 speeds, but their range is too limited.
I really want something in between for casual city cycling, shopping, etc on a vintage upright bike. What do you think of the Sturmey Archer 5 speed?
Many thanks. 👍
I haven't seen (not to mention serviced) a Sturmey Archer 5-speed hub (the 3-speed ones are quite durable).
I believe that Dan Burkhart has forgotten more than I've ever known about geared hubs (to use that Serbian phrase). :) I'd ask him. His channel:
www.youtube.com/@2wagondragon
Relja
@@BikeGremlinUS Thanks. That's very helpful. Will do. 👍
I got to the point of disassembling the internal assembly (i.e. right after removing the internal split ring) but the two halves won't come apart :( is this because I accidentally fiddled with the gear selector at some point after removing the wheel from the bike?
I'm not sure. Maybe it just got stuck (rust or similar). You can manually move the gears (as shown at 4:34 in the video) and see if it helps wiggle the part out.
@BikeGremlinUS manually moving the gears did the trick! I was worried I was hurting it because it made a sharp clicking noise but rotating the actuator all the way around allowed me to separate them :) thank you
Cool. Glad to hear that. :)
Have you tested this lubrication method oo long distances? I can see oil and especially grease is much thicker than the Shimano recommended one.
Mićko rides like that for years. Commuting and fun rides. He's got years and miles on those babies.
Relja
so the only part of the hub shell that you need to lubricate is the bearing race?
Yes.
I
wow... that looks very very complicated ..well done
It is not too complicated. Taking it slowly, one step at a time, does it.
Relja
Really, do you need the crazy music?
Always! :)
The original version, full length (with narration in my native, and no music):
th-cam.com/video/wZdbl3Zgd10/w-d-xo.html
Relja
There is an US company that couldn't do without reducing the number of gears to 2 and actuating it all by a bluetooth gimmick wirelessly. And they have the audacity to claim over 98% efficiency.
Greta Thunberg's tears 😂😂😂
🤣👍