I bought the 3210 few months back for low current 12V landscape lighting, with 1 250W panel... Works fine. Downloadad monitor software and bought temp censor/comm cable kit, and have that up and running too. Is working fine. I bought another 250W panel, a 2kW inverter, and the 4210 to replace the 30A so I could put it (3210) in my travel trailer along with 250W panel, and 225Ah T105 6V batts... will finish that project when I can.... The 4210 was in place for only 4 days feeding 450Ah batts/12V from 2-250W panels in one array ( 74VOC..55-68V MPPT range...well within it's published opperating range ) and running moderate loads with the 2KW inverter, as well as landscape system. This unit has already burned out, and I'm waiting for warranty on it.....not sure why, as there was very little load on inverter at the time.....( Dud..??) In the mean time I have placed the 3210 in place of 4210, ran it through some good load/charge cycles... up to 1500W inverter loads(sunny days here right now) and it has performed very well. The manufacturer claims that these units can handle up to 3 times their input wattage rating, and will only allow rated output current to the batts/system..... and I'm pushing this unit into that range right now with the 2-250W in series. My intention is to add another array (2-250W/series) to this system for winter time, as I live on the coast of British Columbia and we can go through MANY days at a time of crappy, low light, conditions and short winter days. I'm hopeful these (EPever) MPPT controllers( Come on Warranty.. !!! ) will perform as stated, as they seem to be solid units, and you can't bitch at the price point either.
I was thinking about mounting it with some aluminum stock, maybe 1 inch square. It would give room for air movement and the aluminum would also help with the heat.
Sir, just one question: I bought the mppt tracer epsolar 4215a, I can't find what's the limit voltage/amps, I can output from the Load Terminals: Connect loads.? Do you know something?
Alex Siqueira Generally they are 100 volt max input DC, and up to 15% amps over the rated can be fed into them. I run 42 amps calculated into my 40 amp models, my input voltage is 88vdc from my Stion Solar panels. The output is usually 1/2 the input rating at what ever your battery set up voltage is.
Јохн Даниел Thanks. As for now I got only 1 unity of 315w 45v solar panel on the mppt tracer epsolar 4215a. My battery bank will be 24v, the vendor told me that the cc can handle up to 1040w, with would fit 3 x 315w = 3 units(panel). Altough I concerned with this 100v input, cause 45v x 3 = +than 100v... Could you confirm to the veracity behind this alegation that the mppt tracer epsolar 4215a could handle 3 of these pannels when sering a 24v battery bank?
This seems to have all the identical parts that the tracer 40 in other styles have at $40 cheaper. But whats obvious is that it may not cool itself as easy. So, I mounted this one on a formed aluminum sheet with a pair of 4 watt 40mm fans and a temp controller. At 105 degrees F it kicks on the fans, the power efficiency goes up the cooler it runs.
My "pcm x60" by mpp solar doesn't need a separate controller to adjust all the permitters. It has computer monitoring software if you choose to use it. I'm definitely considering getting one of these for a smaller secondary setup I am building. They are quite a bit cheaper than "mpp solar"
Bought the 40amp version for a 24v system along with 4-420ah (20 hr rating) batteries and two 265w solar modules. Charges battery bank fine, but don't connect the load terminals to something like a 24v fridge as it can't handle it, always kicks out and fridge never stays on. Ended up just connecting fridge straight to battery bank. Also, the thing will not keep time, within 24hr the internal clock can be off by more than an hour!Other than that everything seems tickyboo, but its only been a month thus far...
Wet sled Interesting ... is 40A charger enough for this big batterybank? i have 2 105A 12 volt agm deepcycle put togheter as a 12volts bank ,is,n it a issue whit your setupp that your batt bank becomes sulfated becose of too little charge amps, (5-8% desulfating-rule) ,,maybe i,am mistaken.. you have 4 times 400+ putt togheter as one 24volts bank? the fridge vou can calculate the 24ours voltage/amps and if you can harvest this amount of amps given your sun/daytime not being low on voltage whit your batterybank too much and destroying them $$$ 👍🏻
a 100ah battery needs aproximitly 5-8ah of charge minimal to keep it from sulfating and destroying it,so 40AH max fore a 1680AH 24 vot batt bank is 210A needed!? thats 8%
I recently bought an epever 2210 MPPT charge controller. BY default battery type was SEELED and I could change it to USER as I am having 4S 17P Lithium battery pack (18650) But my controller is not charging more than 14.5V but I want to change it to 16.8V I couldn't find out a way to do it. Can you please help me in simple language? I have no remote meter.
On the first day it was a bad battery charger, the second day was better, but on the third day and then it was actually a better loader for my batteries. Great difference from the previous PWR 😋.
I have question. I'm about to get my first charge controller and am starting to lean towards the 40amp Triron series but the Tracers been getting my attention lately. Which one is better or does it even matter?
Hey bro there is a big confusion that on this product somewhere written 30 amps and somewhere 40 amps. Kindly tell me uo to how much amps or panles does it support ??
It was excellent presentation. What is the difference between Rated Charge Power and Max. PV Array Power . Tracer manual says 40amps controller Max Pv array power 520W and Max Areay power 780W for 12v . Does this mean 40amps controller can be connected with 780W pannel on 12v battery.
It will allow up to 780 watts to be wired to it, but will only produce a max of 40 amps(520w@12volt DC). EXAMPLE: It means if you use 780 watts of panels and lay them flat or live in a low sun area, they will very rarely hit over 700 watts actually and the controller can handle those events, but will likely always provide the 520 your controller can process.
+Akrame Elhimass 1800 watts at what battery voltage? 30 amps at 12 volt battery is 380 watts solar in, and 48 volt battery is 1500 watts solar in. You must have watched too many videos from Missouri LOL!
+Akrame Elhimass It can take 100 volts from the solar but that's incoming voltage, not battery, the charging amps is still all you can base wattage on. In a 12 volt system your math is 13.8 x 1 amp (per amp rating) gives you the watts it can handle converting to amps for charging. Anything over that is just turned to heat which will burn up the controller. So 13.8 volts x 30 amps (your controller rating) is a max input wattage of 414 watts of solar with UP TO 100 volts dc as the panel voltage. I have 135 watt - 90 volt STION solar panels on my place in Texas. I am charging 10 batteries all 12 volt using 3 Esun PMX60 controllers rated at 60 amp, 150 volt max input. The reason some controllers have high voltage abilities is so you can raise solar panel voltage by doubling your panels to make higher volts to make them more efficient in how the wires can carry the power.
I watched your video on the Harbor Freight 100 watt set up a while back, and you were looking into going with an MPPT charge controller, did you find a controller that you would recommend ? The controller that comes with the HF units don't last very long. thanks a heap for any suggestions you may have.... KC
Yes, a basic TRACER like this one amzn.to/2zFsBFC the EPEVER 40A MPPT Solar Charge Controller Tracer A 4210A + Remote Meter MT-50. Reason for the 40 AMP from day one is unless your just going stop at 100 watts, then get a unit that can handle 500 and one you can grow into. Plus, they LOVE amorphous panels.
hi. i just installed one of these on my trailer. the batteries were low at 5.38 volts .so i currently hooked up a charger to them . also finished hooking up solar panel to controller but no display lit up on the controller.?.......even with the low battery should not the solar panel display come on ?.........or is the controller defective ?
i left the battery charger hooked up .will go back to check on it tomorrow .so i assume your saying when the batteries reach 1o volts the display will light up on the mttp controller and it will start to draw from the solar panel ?
in an unrelated issue i have a battery jumper pack that i shorted out.made by quickcable. any idea where i can take it to be repaired.called the company that makes it and they didnt even know
Depending on the model they have a fuse inside them. If its lithium its a fuseable link, if its Nicad or Led Acid internal battery its a replaceable fuse or resettable circuit breaker in the unit near the switch. Open it carefully, disconnect the battery pack or battery to see if any internal damage has happened. If the battery pack is swollen up, its trash, get a new one. If not look for the fuse or circuit breaker and replace it with same model or rating. Go to Amazon to find the part you need if you plan to fix it.
Be sure you ONLY Hook up the battery FIRST!!! And yes, it requires over 10 volts, really needs a full 12 volt, for the system to identify its voltage it will run on.
Hi how you going I have one of those controllers have only just bought with 250 W solar panel connected to it but will be putting 500 W solar panel connected I have 2AGM batteries 6 V connected together to make 12 v The AGM batteries are 250 amp hr Bitch what setting should I put for the batteries as it does not have AGM on the controller thank you
I can't swear on it, but I believe Renogy have theirs badge built by Tracer, including the 60Amp Commander. So there's at least are the genuine article, just badge built.
I found and bought a awesome and slightly cheaper 40 amp MPPT that is a much higher 150 volt capable thats actually a Tracer but in Horizontal layout. All internals are the same. I'll do a video on it after 3 months use so stay tuned, so far its excellent. rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575119394&toolid=10001&campid=5337966591&customid=Same+As+Tracer&icep_item=142175552088&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg Made by Tracer For EPSolSun inc Taiwan. No one lnows of these so keep it a bit quiet or the sellers will jack the prices when it starts selling a lot.
Јохн Даниел The 150 Amp model is only $150 bucks. It could be a hidden gem if it is reliable. I wonder if it works with the MT50 display as well? I will be interested to see the results of your testing for sure.
As far as I understand, EP Solar are the original builder of this unit, hence the EPever name: The 'EP' bit means 'efficient power', the 'ever' bit means for ever. There are several that look like this, but as we all know, the Chinese will copy anything, even their own. EPever seems to be the one with the quality customer service who as far as the forums go, look after their name. Someone will tell me I'm wrong, but that will happen anywhere. Google 'EPever', make your own conclusion.
+Drewboo 1968 I went the Midnight Classic route. One $580 loss that shut down 80 amps of panels and crippled our system. Their loss and failure rate is higher than Tracer. So when I found that out I bought 3 Tracers @ 40 amps each, had fail safes, higher capacity, and saved $70 in the end.
can someone please measure the value of the temperature sensor and post it here .. along with the temperature. I want to see wich type of sensor /thermistor it is ptc or ntc .. I know they are powered at 3.2V. thanks
Nobody's seem to be concerned about the equalization charge that occurs on the 28th of the month. What if there is no sun on that day and the next month on the 28th.????
Thats why you should always maintain it yourself, if your battery don't get hard charged then do a overrride or what I do, I just run a 70 amp charger from a gas generator and a 30 volt PMA on mine till they get warm about every 45 to 60 days then do my watering. But with wind turbines th-cam.com/video/QSfWnIscDTM/w-d-xo.html in a good wind area, you never need to do Solar Equalization. See mine, the 3 blade is for high wind area, the 5 blade for everywhere else.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 thanks John for being out here for all of us. John respond back within 12 hrs of my concern. Epever responded instantly also. Stated there is no ability to alter the equlization date. I strongly feel there there should be that feature. If the date was changed to the 28th of the month would that create a manual override??? Again thanks for sharing your knowledge whit us..
Have heard about the Epever UPower Series -Inverter/charger? Looking for someone who has reviewed them. I enjoy watching your reviews, maybe someday you can look into these.
I bought an epsolar (same company) 60amp etracer.. it was huge and very good quality. It lasted a few months and then ended up in the bin. I'm not buying this crap anymore but if I were to I would get the tracer BN... I contacted epsoler and that's what they told me to get. Can be paralleled too
+garilasprouts It has 2 sides, each fused to 30 or 35. I noted one in a 20 amp model I saw, 2 in this one. Seems it's designed to handle high incoming surge. It has a current limiter on the load side apparently that's like a circuit breaker.
Gday mate... I'm still finding my feet with my off grid solar system. I have this controller and recently was gifted 12 x 175w x 24v panels. Can you tell me how to calculate how many panels this controller will handle. I'm running 3 x 85ah x 12v batteries in parallel.
Base your sizing on the following. 13.4 volts static rate for a 12 volt system, 26.8 volts for a 24 volt system. Watts divided by that number pair will denote amps you can deploy to the controllers. *Example* 3 of your 175 watt panels ( 175w x 3 panels ÷ 13.4 volts= 38.6 amps)
Battery value on solar amps math: based on 6 hours full sun you will need 190 AH@20 of battery for every 40 amps of daily solar charge. So for your system, you will need four 40 amp controllers and 4 x your current battery bank ( 760 AH ) The newer Tracer MPPT 10 to 80 amp by EP are in my reviewed and tested list. www.amazon.com/shop/influencer-acccb1e8
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Thanks John... very clear but is it possible to send too much power to the controller and damage it or do they just ignore the extra current.
Be shure not to operate them close to the maximum voltage, I suspect my 2x 40A controllers burnt / broke because of this... my panels are 86 volt max open circuit, waranty replaced controller also broke down. Oddly a 30A version I have had a year longer doesn't break... I finally gave up on them (expensive lesson) and went with Victron units.
+potc420 For a job in Ketchum idaho I ordered 3 from MPP off ebay, 1 had made in Taiwan on it, 2 had made in China on them. All 3 had the MPP Solar logo on them bought from maximum solar. Opening them up I could find absolutely zero difference. I believe they are all 100% made in China but fraudulent labled to trick buyers.
Dear John, or anybody else with a Tracer-A unit, could someone tell me the chip markings of U20 (on my Tracer4210A). It is a low-profile 8 pin soic, seems to be supplying power to an LP38691 LDO which has an input range of 2.7-10v, which again powers the uC. So I guess U20 must be some kind of power supply ic to step down battery voltage to ~10v. Any ideas? My parts bin is huge, but I need to know the proper identity of the chip to fix my tracer. U20 markings are unreadable here, as it has blown up to the point the markings are completely unreadable. Thanks!
Just a head Up mine has not been hot yet.. But mine PV is set Up in series .. so mine does MPPT thoes who buynin Rothe shade PV in series don't work .. set in parallel .. ( Mine 3000 PV watt is both seriel and paralell 4pv x3 .. All cabels are in the EPever No jumpers 3+ 3- ) Defentley get hot becaus I F YOU DO NOT GO 5 V ABOWE (12 VOLT) IT WONT MPPT !!!
Hi, I just got this MPPT EPEVER same as yours but lower current only 10A, my question is, can I put a 300W 36V solar panel with it, and charge my 12V battery? Thanks
Its a math thing, WATTS ÷ 13.8 volts is your amps you will end up with going to the battery, so if you put 300 watts solar ( 300 ÷ 13.8 ) you would be pushing 21.7 amps into a 10 amp controller ( NOT GOOD). 13.8 volts is common 100% charge status of a 12 volt battery in incoming charge, 12.8 is standing 100% on a 12 volt battery. The math doubles each time as you go from 12 VDC to 24VDC to 48VDC MATH on what a controller can handle is below * WATTS ÷ 13.8 volts = AMPS* A 10 amp controller can handle 130 watts solar and produce 120 watts or about 9.5 amps charge A 20 amp controller can handle 260 watts solar and produce 260 watts or about 19 amps charge A 30 amp controller can handle 390 watts solar and produce 360 watts or about 28.5 amps charge You can see theres a input, conversion loss, bulk charge maximum rating and a after conversion rate of charge abilities. If your going to grow your system, but big on the controllers from day one.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Hello, I am writing from France, thank you these mppt limit the output current normally? in the example of 10amp; so even if you plug in a 300w panel, and there is a lot of sun, the mppt limits the output load power to 10amp, or it burns out? I read a little above one of your comments, on a 40amp module, you had 42amp? ; you were in limit of input power, or it is the mppt which was in limit of output power? 10 amperer (12v x 10a = 120w); ; 120w is the maximum load power that the mppt can provide, or 120w is it really the maximum power of the panel that can be connected to it? for me a mppt is a simple dc-dc step-down converter, or the power limit, in the logic must be done at the output of the converter another example on victron energie mppt; a 100/20; it indicates that the maximum load power is 240w (12v), maximum input power, but not the maximum panel power that can be connected to it, it therefore indicates that the panels must not exceed 100v in circuit open, and that the short-circuit current of the panels should not exceed 20amp, if we do a calculation we will take 70Vmp & 15Amp, with these figures we are not out of spec, its done 1000w, even if the panels can give 1000w, the mppt will transfer only 240w to the battery,, for me it is even done on purpose, its allows to oversize the panels for the winter if we put a 20amp fuse at the input of a 20pp mppt, in the logic impossible to damage it, if the cutout mosfets were chosen ... finally here, tell me what you think about it :) thank you good luck
@@JOHNDANIEL1 thank you it is thanks to you, and your video that I could see some years ago, I look for a charge controller mppt, I could see under the hood that the epever 4210a has self, which shows itself well that it is mppt, and no fake device "mppt" pwm ... It's been 2 years since my epever 4210a works great :)
Seems to be a fine controller. But it wasnt for me. Ran 3 12v 100w panels. Mppt worked good until the tracer died. I got a second one. Worked great until....it wouldnt shut off and consequently ruined my batteries. I got a third one...used it just long enough to get a real good top of the line controller...a Midnite Classic. Went through three tracers in a years time. The tracer is simply a plug and play controller. You can set battery type but you cant user set any charging parameters. If you cant control paraneters then it will cost you in battery performance...battery longevity...and optimum performance. The controller needs to let the end user set bulk, absorption, float and equalization values determined by the battery manufacturer.
Hate to hear that, but a Classic is better. Mine are still running just fine though taking 43 volts for 37 amps solar and charging 12VDC system. Using my computer I did set them for top and bottom charge. But you have to manually do bulk on mine. I prefer that so I can do a full battery check prior to hitting them with the 15.5 its open for.
I'm confused, you state _"but you cant user set any charging parameters"_ and _"needs to let the end user set bulk, absorption, float and equalization values"_ ... these controllers *DO* let you set these, did you read the manual? (HINT: check page 17) You can set any parameter from 9 to 17V. I have set parameters on my 4210A for charging lithium batteries and never had a problem.
Јохн Даниел I have a new 3210A and one of the wire locking screws broke off and the cable clamp is stuck. Any idea where I can get a whole new connector? and or a part # and a name for it. Thanks for any information. Terry
Don;t buy that other crap thats for sure. All I see is them selling those fakes called MPPT and I bought one and its shit. I just have to spend the money and get a real one. Thanks for putting a link on who sells the real ones.
10 of these and a pair of MPPT controllers will keep you up and running if Obammy gets us to war rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575119394&toolid=10001&campid=5337966591&customid=Amorphous+30+year&icep_item=322364652846&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg Superior Japan Made. Start storing food too because the communist are not Russians now, its the Democracks!
I bought the 3210 few months back for low current 12V landscape lighting, with 1 250W panel... Works fine. Downloadad monitor software and bought temp censor/comm cable kit, and have that up and running too. Is working fine.
I bought another 250W panel, a 2kW inverter, and the 4210 to replace the 30A so I could put it (3210) in my travel trailer along with 250W panel, and 225Ah T105 6V batts... will finish that project when I can....
The 4210 was in place for only 4 days feeding 450Ah batts/12V from 2-250W panels in one array ( 74VOC..55-68V MPPT range...well within it's published opperating range ) and running moderate loads with the 2KW inverter, as well as landscape system. This unit has already burned out, and I'm waiting for warranty on it.....not sure why, as there was very little load on inverter at the time.....( Dud..??)
In the mean time I have placed the 3210 in place of 4210, ran it through some good load/charge cycles... up to 1500W inverter loads(sunny days here right now) and it has performed very well. The manufacturer claims that these units can handle up to 3 times their input wattage rating, and will only allow rated output current to the batts/system..... and I'm pushing this unit into that range right now with the 2-250W in series. My intention is to add another array (2-250W/series) to this system for winter time, as I live on the coast of British Columbia and we can go through MANY days at a time of crappy, low light, conditions and short winter days.
I'm hopeful these (EPever) MPPT controllers( Come on Warranty.. !!! ) will perform as stated, as they seem to be solid units, and you can't bitch at the price point either.
Mine have lasted over 2 years so far with no problems
Some body will eat it Got warranty on it..so have new one in place now. Seems to be fine so far.
I was thinking about mounting it with some aluminum stock, maybe 1 inch square. It would give room for air movement and the aluminum would also help with the heat.
I have 3 of this now for 2 years on a 24 volt build. they work well.
So far mine are working much better than the solar mates I have. Buying more.
Sir, just one question: I bought the mppt tracer epsolar 4215a, I can't find what's the limit voltage/amps, I can output from the Load Terminals: Connect loads.? Do you know something?
Alex Siqueira Generally they are 100 volt max input DC, and up to 15% amps over the rated can be fed into them. I run 42 amps calculated into my 40 amp models, my input voltage is 88vdc from my Stion Solar panels.
The output is usually 1/2 the input rating at what ever your battery set up voltage is.
Јохн Даниел Thanks. As for now I got only 1 unity of 315w 45v solar panel on the mppt tracer epsolar 4215a. My battery bank will be 24v, the vendor told me that the cc can handle up to 1040w, with would fit 3 x 315w = 3 units(panel). Altough I concerned with this 100v input, cause 45v x 3 = +than 100v... Could you confirm to the veracity behind this alegation that the mppt tracer epsolar 4215a could handle 3 of these pannels when sering a 24v battery bank?
Alex Siqueira Do not exceed 100 volts. The input capacitors inside are only 100 volt.
What should go bad if attach battery off when solar panels on, resistor
This is the Best one to use on Small systems THE SOLAR MAN
I bought the 20 amp version for my brother and it does well. I'll put up a video when I have time. He is charging a 12 volt battery bank.
This seems to have all the identical parts that the tracer 40 in other styles have at $40 cheaper. But whats obvious is that it may not cool itself as easy. So, I mounted this one on a formed aluminum sheet with a pair of 4 watt 40mm fans and a temp controller. At 105 degrees F it kicks on the fans, the power efficiency goes up the cooler it runs.
My "pcm x60" by mpp solar doesn't need a separate controller to adjust all the permitters. It has computer monitoring software if you choose to use it. I'm definitely considering getting one of these for a smaller secondary setup I am building. They are quite a bit cheaper than "mpp solar"
Bought the 40amp version for a 24v system along with 4-420ah (20 hr rating) batteries and two 265w solar modules. Charges battery bank fine, but don't connect the load terminals to something like a 24v fridge as it can't handle it, always kicks out and fridge never stays on. Ended up just connecting fridge straight to battery bank. Also, the thing will not keep time, within 24hr the internal clock can be off by more than an hour!Other than that everything seems tickyboo, but its only been a month thus far...
Wet sled Interesting ... is 40A charger enough for this big batterybank? i have 2 105A 12 volt agm deepcycle put togheter as a 12volts bank ,is,n it a issue whit your setupp that your batt bank becomes sulfated becose of too little charge amps, (5-8% desulfating-rule) ,,maybe i,am mistaken.. you have 4 times 400+ putt togheter as one 24volts bank? the fridge vou can calculate the 24ours voltage/amps and if you can harvest this amount of amps given your sun/daytime not being low on voltage whit your batterybank too much and destroying them $$$ 👍🏻
a 100ah battery needs aproximitly 5-8ah of charge minimal to keep it from sulfating and destroying it,so 40AH max fore a 1680AH 24 vot batt bank is 210A needed!? thats 8%
I think it in the way of putting batterys togheter paralelle or serial👍🏻 so it can be done whit 33,6 AH ,420AH / 8% ..
I recently bought an epever 2210 MPPT charge controller. BY default battery type was SEELED and I could change it to USER as I am having 4S 17P Lithium battery pack (18650) But my controller is not charging more than 14.5V but I want to change it to 16.8V I couldn't find out a way to do it. Can you please help me in simple language? I have no remote meter.
Bought mine from that link and got it in a few days. Really nice stuff.
Some of the new Epever real units don't have the tracer logo on the side, All other logos are on the unit.
On the first day it was a bad battery charger, the second day was better, but on the third day and then it was actually a better loader for my batteries. Great difference from the previous PWR 😋.
I have question. I'm about to get my first charge controller and am starting to lean towards the 40amp Triron series but the Tracers been getting my attention lately. Which one is better or does it even matter?
Go with the Tracer Series. Total proven, runs much cooler.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Thank you!!
Hey bro there is a big confusion that on this product somewhere written 30 amps and somewhere 40 amps. Kindly tell me uo to how much amps or panles does it support ??
It was excellent presentation.
What is the difference between Rated Charge Power and Max. PV Array Power
. Tracer manual says 40amps controller Max Pv array power 520W and Max Areay power 780W for 12v . Does this mean 40amps controller can be connected with 780W pannel on 12v battery.
It will allow up to 780 watts to be wired to it, but will only produce a max of 40 amps(520w@12volt DC). EXAMPLE: It means if you use 780 watts of panels and lay them flat or live in a low sun area, they will very rarely hit over 700 watts actually and the controller can handle those events, but will likely always provide the 520 your controller can process.
I know this was posted in 2014 but are the fuses remvable?
Yes, you can remove internal fuses for replacement.
Hi, i bought an epever 30A and it can handle 100v, so i can coonnect it with my 1800w panels ?
+Akrame Elhimass 1800 watts at what battery voltage? 30 amps at 12 volt battery is 380 watts solar in, and 48 volt battery is 1500 watts solar in. You must have watched too many videos from Missouri LOL!
But if he can take 100v i think he's input pv (w) would be 3000w MAX
+Akrame Elhimass It can take 100 volts from the solar but that's incoming voltage, not battery, the charging amps is still all you can base wattage on. In a 12 volt system your math is 13.8 x 1 amp (per amp rating) gives you the watts it can handle converting to amps for charging. Anything over that is just turned to heat which will burn up the controller.
So 13.8 volts x 30 amps (your controller rating) is a max input wattage of 414 watts of solar with UP TO 100 volts dc as the panel voltage.
I have 135 watt - 90 volt STION solar panels on my place in Texas. I am charging 10 batteries all 12 volt using 3 Esun PMX60 controllers rated at 60 amp, 150 volt max input. The reason some controllers have high voltage abilities is so you can raise solar panel voltage by doubling your panels to make higher volts to make them more efficient in how the wires can carry the power.
I watched your video on the Harbor Freight 100 watt set up a while back, and you were looking into going with an MPPT charge controller, did you find a controller that you would recommend ? The controller that comes with the HF units don't last very long. thanks a heap for any suggestions you may have.... KC
Yes, a basic TRACER like this one amzn.to/2zFsBFC the EPEVER 40A MPPT Solar Charge Controller Tracer A 4210A + Remote Meter MT-50. Reason for the 40 AMP from day one is unless your just going stop at 100 watts, then get a unit that can handle 500 and one you can grow into. Plus, they LOVE amorphous panels.
hi. i just installed one of these on my trailer. the batteries were low at 5.38 volts .so i currently hooked up a charger to them . also finished hooking up solar panel to controller but no display lit up on the controller.?.......even with the low battery should not the solar panel display come on ?.........or is the controller defective ?
+bob woerner That controller like most needs 10+ volts to begin operating.
i left the battery charger hooked up .will go back to check on it tomorrow .so i assume your saying when the batteries reach 1o volts the display will light up on the mttp controller and it will start to draw from the solar panel ?
in an unrelated issue i have a battery jumper pack that i shorted out.made by quickcable. any idea where i can take it to be repaired.called the company that makes it and they didnt even know
Depending on the model they have a fuse inside them. If its lithium its a fuseable link, if its Nicad or Led Acid internal battery its a replaceable fuse or resettable circuit breaker in the unit near the switch. Open it carefully, disconnect the battery pack or battery to see if any internal damage has happened. If the battery pack is swollen up, its trash, get a new one. If not look for the fuse or circuit breaker and replace it with same model or rating. Go to Amazon to find the part you need if you plan to fix it.
Be sure you ONLY Hook up the battery FIRST!!! And yes, it requires over 10 volts, really needs a full 12 volt, for the system to identify its voltage it will run on.
Hi how you going I have one of those controllers have only just bought with 250 W solar panel connected to it but will be putting 500 W solar panel connected I have 2AGM batteries 6 V connected together to make 12 v The AGM batteries are 250 amp hr Bitch what setting should I put for the batteries as it does not have AGM on the controller thank you
+Allan Robertson Set it on gel battery voltage.
Thanks you.
Remote meter will not work with the AN, newer models.
I have new 3210AN series and the right remote meter work! Mt 50! Which remote meter have you got??
I can't swear on it, but I believe Renogy have theirs badge built by Tracer, including the 60Amp Commander. So there's at least are the genuine article, just badge built.
I found and bought a awesome and slightly cheaper 40 amp MPPT that is a much higher 150 volt capable thats actually a Tracer but in Horizontal layout. All internals are the same. I'll do a video on it after 3 months use so stay tuned, so far its excellent. rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575119394&toolid=10001&campid=5337966591&customid=Same+As+Tracer&icep_item=142175552088&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg Made by Tracer For EPSolSun inc Taiwan.
No one lnows of these so keep it a bit quiet or the sellers will jack the prices when it starts selling a lot.
Јохн Даниел The 150 Amp model is only $150 bucks. It could be a hidden gem if it is reliable. I wonder if it works with the MT50 display as well? I will be interested to see the results of your testing for sure.
As far as I understand, EP Solar are the original builder of this unit, hence the EPever name: The 'EP' bit means 'efficient power', the 'ever' bit means for ever.
There are several that look like this, but as we all know, the Chinese will copy anything, even their own.
EPever seems to be the one with the quality customer service who as far as the forums go, look after their name. Someone will tell me I'm wrong, but that will happen anywhere. Google 'EPever', make your own conclusion.
nlo114 Thanks boss, appreciate it. I think I am going to go the Midnite Classic route though.
+Drewboo 1968 I went the Midnight Classic route. One $580 loss that shut down 80 amps of panels and crippled our system. Their loss and failure rate is higher than Tracer. So when I found that out I bought 3 Tracers @ 40 amps each, had fail safes, higher capacity, and saved $70 in the end.
Very helpful vid many thanks
can someone please measure the value of the temperature sensor and post it here .. along with the temperature. I want to see wich type of sensor /thermistor it is ptc or ntc .. I know they are powered at 3.2V. thanks
+Albert I. V. 44 ohms
+Albert I. V. 122 degrees Fahrenheit 50 Celsius
torn between this or a smaller victron
Definitely the EpEver TRACER models in my experience.
Nobody's seem to be concerned about the equalization charge that occurs on the 28th of the month. What if there is no sun on that day and the next month on the 28th.????
Thats why you should always maintain it yourself, if your battery don't get hard charged then do a overrride or what I do, I just run a 70 amp charger from a gas generator and a 30 volt PMA on mine till they get warm about every 45 to 60 days then do my watering. But with wind turbines th-cam.com/video/QSfWnIscDTM/w-d-xo.html in a good wind area, you never need to do Solar Equalization. See mine, the 3 blade is for high wind area, the 5 blade for everywhere else.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 thanks John for being out here for all of us. John respond back within 12 hrs of my concern. Epever responded instantly also. Stated there is no ability to alter the equlization date. I strongly feel there there should be that feature. If the date was changed to the 28th of the month would that create a manual override??? Again thanks for sharing your knowledge whit us..
I have the controller. It is damn too good. The efficiency is about 99+%
+Marcus Casca Be sure to keep it cool.
To keep cool as in add fan to it?
+Marcus Casca You can add a fan with a electronic sensor. I've done it with everything I buy to extend life and efficiency.
+Marcus Casca When I can I'll do a video on adding cooling
Have heard about the Epever UPower Series -Inverter/charger? Looking for someone who has reviewed them. I enjoy watching your reviews, maybe someday you can look into these.
I bought an epsolar (same company) 60amp etracer.. it was huge and very good quality. It lasted a few months and then ended up in the bin.
I'm not buying this crap anymore but if I were to I would get the tracer BN... I contacted epsoler and that's what they told me to get. Can be paralleled too
Why does this controller have 2 35 amp fuses & not 2 40 amp fuses?
+garilasprouts It has 2 sides, each fused to 30 or 35. I noted one in a 20 amp model I saw, 2 in this one. Seems it's designed to handle high incoming surge. It has a current limiter on the load side apparently that's like a circuit breaker.
Just ordered 2 more and added 900 more watts
I have the 10amp version and I'm wondering if I can replace the 10amp fuse with a 35amp fuse?
No
Gday mate... I'm still finding my feet with my off grid solar system. I have this controller and recently was gifted 12 x 175w x 24v panels. Can you tell me how to calculate how many panels this controller will handle. I'm running 3 x 85ah x 12v batteries in parallel.
Base your sizing on the following. 13.4 volts static rate for a 12 volt system, 26.8 volts for a 24 volt system. Watts divided by that number pair will denote amps you can deploy to the controllers. *Example* 3 of your 175 watt panels ( 175w x 3 panels ÷ 13.4 volts= 38.6 amps)
Battery value on solar amps math: based on 6 hours full sun you will need 190 AH@20 of battery for every 40 amps of daily solar charge. So for your system, you will need four 40 amp controllers and 4 x your current battery bank ( 760 AH ) The newer Tracer MPPT 10 to 80 amp by EP are in my reviewed and tested list. www.amazon.com/shop/influencer-acccb1e8
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Thanks John... very clear but is it possible to send too much power to the controller and damage it or do they just ignore the extra current.
You can damage one with 10% over its rating and poor cooling. It will shunt some, but over 10% past its rating you get fails.
Be shure not to operate them close to the maximum voltage, I suspect my 2x 40A controllers burnt / broke because of this... my panels are 86 volt max open circuit, waranty replaced controller also broke down.
Oddly a 30A version I have had a year longer doesn't break...
I finally gave up on them (expensive lesson) and went with Victron units.
+dboekel I run mine at under 80 volts myself, so far all good.
Actually that controller is a knock off of the "mpp solar" brand. The mpp solar brand is made in Taiwan, these are made in China.
+potc420 For a job in Ketchum idaho I ordered 3 from MPP off ebay, 1 had made in Taiwan on it, 2 had made in China on them. All 3 had the MPP Solar logo on them bought from maximum solar.
Opening them up I could find absolutely zero difference. I believe they are all 100% made in China but fraudulent labled to trick buyers.
Dear John, or anybody else with a Tracer-A unit, could someone tell me the chip markings of U20 (on my Tracer4210A). It is a low-profile 8 pin soic, seems to be supplying power to an LP38691 LDO which has an input range of 2.7-10v, which again powers the uC. So I guess U20 must be some kind of power supply ic to step down battery voltage to ~10v. Any ideas? My parts bin is huge, but I need to know the proper identity of the chip to fix my tracer. U20 markings are unreadable here, as it has blown up to the point the markings are completely unreadable. Thanks!
+homelien I'll take a look asap
+homelien I can't make out the info on U20. Lower numbers are 6275, best I get on top set is B09673.
Very bad labeling.
Just a head Up mine has not been hot yet..
But mine PV is set Up in series .. so mine does MPPT thoes who buynin Rothe shade PV in series don't work .. set in parallel ..
( Mine 3000 PV watt is both seriel and paralell 4pv x3 .. All cabels are in the EPever No jumpers 3+ 3- )
Defentley get hot becaus I F YOU DO NOT GO 5 V ABOWE (12 VOLT) IT WONT MPPT !!!
Hi, I just got this MPPT EPEVER same as yours but lower current only 10A, my question is, can I put a 300W 36V solar panel with it, and charge my 12V battery?
Thanks
Its a math thing, WATTS ÷ 13.8 volts is your amps you will end up with going to the battery, so if you put 300 watts solar ( 300 ÷ 13.8 ) you would be pushing 21.7 amps into a 10 amp controller ( NOT GOOD). 13.8 volts is common 100% charge status of a 12 volt battery in incoming charge, 12.8 is standing 100% on a 12 volt battery. The math doubles each time as you go from 12 VDC to 24VDC to 48VDC
MATH on what a controller can handle is below
* WATTS ÷ 13.8 volts = AMPS*
A 10 amp controller can handle 130 watts solar and produce 120 watts or about 9.5 amps charge
A 20 amp controller can handle 260 watts solar and produce 260 watts or about 19 amps charge
A 30 amp controller can handle 390 watts solar and produce 360 watts or about 28.5 amps charge
You can see theres a input, conversion loss, bulk charge maximum rating and a after conversion rate of charge abilities.
If your going to grow your system, but big on the controllers from day one.
Јоhn Daniel you're a good person, took the time to explain all these , deserve big time appreciation. Thank you!
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Hello, I am writing from France, thank you
these mppt limit the output current normally?
in the example of 10amp; so even if you plug in a 300w panel, and there is a lot of sun, the mppt limits the output load power to 10amp, or it burns out?
I read a little above one of your comments, on a 40amp module, you had 42amp? ; you were in limit of input power, or it is the mppt which was in limit of output power?
10 amperer (12v x 10a = 120w); ; 120w is the maximum load power that the mppt can provide, or 120w is it really the maximum power of the panel that can be connected to it?
for me a mppt is a simple dc-dc step-down converter, or the power limit, in the logic must be done at the output of the converter
another example on victron energie mppt; a 100/20; it indicates that the maximum load power is 240w (12v), maximum input power, but not the maximum panel power that can be connected to it, it therefore indicates that the panels must not exceed 100v in circuit open, and that the short-circuit current of the panels should not exceed 20amp, if we do a calculation we will take 70Vmp & 15Amp, with these figures we are not out of spec, its done 1000w, even if the panels can give 1000w, the mppt will transfer only 240w to the battery,, for me it is even done on purpose, its allows to oversize the panels for the winter
if we put a 20amp fuse at the input of a 20pp mppt, in the logic impossible to damage it, if the cutout mosfets were chosen ...
finally here, tell me what you think about it :) thank you good luck
@@JOHNDANIEL1 thank you it is thanks to you, and your video that I could see some years ago, I look for a charge controller mppt, I could see under the hood that the epever 4210a has self, which shows itself well that it is mppt, and no fake device "mppt" pwm ...
It's been 2 years since my epever 4210a works great :)
Seems to be a fine controller. But it wasnt for me. Ran 3 12v 100w panels. Mppt worked good until the tracer died. I got a second one. Worked great until....it wouldnt shut off and consequently ruined my batteries. I got a third one...used it just long enough to get a real good top of the line controller...a Midnite Classic. Went through three tracers in a years time. The tracer is simply a plug and play controller. You can set battery type but you cant user set any charging parameters. If you cant control paraneters then it will cost you in battery performance...battery longevity...and optimum performance. The controller needs to let the end user set bulk, absorption, float and equalization values determined by the battery manufacturer.
Hate to hear that, but a Classic is better. Mine are still running just fine though taking 43 volts for 37 amps solar and charging 12VDC system. Using my computer I did set them for top and bottom charge. But you have to manually do bulk on mine. I prefer that so I can do a full battery check prior to hitting them with the 15.5 its open for.
I'm confused, you state _"but you cant user set any charging parameters"_ and _"needs to let the end user set bulk, absorption, float and equalization values"_ ... these controllers *DO* let you set these, did you read the manual? (HINT: check page 17) You can set any parameter from 9 to 17V. I have set parameters on my 4210A for charging lithium batteries and never had a problem.
With remote controller can change but not without
New vid on LED lighting th-cam.com/video/wxDA0v-Kygo/w-d-xo.html
Јохн Даниел I have a new 3210A and one of the wire locking screws broke off and the cable clamp is stuck. Any idea where I can get a whole new connector? and or a part # and a name for it.
Thanks for any information.
Terry
I don’t see what all you did with this
Have You hooked it to your harbor freight solar panels
I am using them on my place down in Texas. So far no fails on 5 installed in almost 2 years.
Don;t buy that other crap thats for sure. All I see is them selling those fakes called MPPT and I bought one and its shit.
I just have to spend the money and get a real one. Thanks for putting a link on who sells the real ones.
YOU SOUND JUST LIKE BBI
Hopefully thats not contagious
10 of these and a pair of MPPT controllers will keep you up and running if Obammy gets us to war rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575119394&toolid=10001&campid=5337966591&customid=Amorphous+30+year&icep_item=322364652846&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg Superior Japan Made.
Start storing food too because the communist are not Russians now, its the Democracks!
congratulations blessed very good visit my channel stay with God hugs
Ditto
Tha t s real mppt
100% real.