EPEver Tracer AN MPPT Solar Charge Controller Review - 12v Solar Shed
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
- I'm taking a look at the new Tracer AN Solar Charge Controller from EPEver. I compare it to the Tracer A series which I've been using for a couple of years and find some nice improvements, and a little issue.
Items Used in this video:
❗️These links are affiliated and I may earn a small commission if you purchase❗️
Tracer AN MPPT Solar Charge Controller: ebay.to/2Jh4Es7
Tracer A MPPT Solar Charge Controller: ebay.to/2JanWPZ
MT50 Remote Meter: ebay.to/2Je1LIA
eBox Wifi: ebay.to/2sn4Yv4
eLog: ebay.to/2H0zS1l
EPSolar RS485 to USB Cable: ebay.to/2L24BxK
PortaPow Premium DC Power Meter: amzn.to/2JgwJzR
Links to my other videos about these items:
Tracer A Review: • MPPT Charge Controller...
Tracer A After 9 Months: • The EPSolar EPEver Tra...
MT50 Meter Review: • EPSolar MT50 Remote Me...
eBox Wifi Review: • EPEver eBox-Wifi-01 RS...
eLog Review: • EPEver eLog01 review -...
#Review #MPPT #Solar #Charge #Controller - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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Thanks for your videos, I've watched almost all of them, some multiple times! - Really appreciate your knowledge.
Just (29 March 2022) bought the Tracer1206AN, it comes with a user manual that is V2.4, the one on their website shows V1.0. I've asked them for an updated version.
Looking at the v2.4 manual, shows that it supports Sealed, Gel, Flooded, LiFePO4 (4S/8S) and Li(NiCoMn)O2 (3S/6S/7S).
There's 9 battery choices for the 8 above (Sealed/Gel/Flood/LFP-4S/LFP-8S/LNCM-3S/LNCM-6S/LNCM-7S) and 1 for User.
It has a table for each of the LFP and LNCM batteries, along with User, so it looks like newer revisions do properly support Lithium. If I get a copy of the manual, I'll add a link here. Otherwise, if anyone wants anything from the manual, ask and I'll do my best.
For reference, the values for Li(NiCoMn)O2 7S are below, voltage in brackets taken from @Adam Welch 's "Update on the Solar Charged 18650 Blocks & the diyBMS - 12v Solar Shed"
video at th-cam.com/video/MchF8c45iQw/w-d-xo.html (1 minute 48 seconds):
Over voltage disconnect voltage 29.8 V (29.75)
Charging limit voltage 29.4 V (29.25)
Over voltage reconnect voltage 29.1 V (29.20)
Equalize charging voltage 29.1 V (29.10)
Boost charging voltage 29.1 V (28.70)
Float charging voltage 28.4 V (28.00)
Boost reconnect charging voltage 28.2 V (27.50)
Low voltage reconnect voltage 24.5 V (23.00)
Under voltage warning reconnect voltage 28.4 V (24.00)
Under voltage warning voltage 24.5 V (23.00)
Low voltage disconnect voltage 21.7 V (22.40)
Discharging limit voltage 21.7 V (21.00)
Thank you for that straightforward practical example of the MPPT conversion happening in real-time..
I've been using an AN series since this video, mine is 10 amp, it's only requirement was for security, mainly a camera with access point wifi connection, my panels are situated in a bad location, during winter they will never see the sun due to buildings in the way, however there is just enough light to keep the batteries topped and the camera streaming thanks to the efficiency of this controller, thank you for the video!
The 30amp model has a single inductor as well. The 40amp model has two inductors and I think they are the same size as the 30amp which probably explains the a higher price per watt than the 30amp. I like the new AN screen design not being soldered right on the mainboard. I personally have owned the 30amp and 40amp A series but have recently upgraded to the BN series because of the superior cooling.
Always wait for your solar reviews I purchased my A series after watching your original review and was very happy with it have just swapped to their new magic series 40A
Thanks for explaining the difference between the "A" and the "AN" models. I had an older "A" and got a newer "AN" and didn't know what the difference was. Now that I know, the next step is figuring out what it **means**.
Time to measure the RF interference that those things cause, Adam! If the box is plastic, and those wires to the inductor, and the inductor itself, are not screened, then the whole unit becomes a problem. OfCom would take a dim view of it. Apart from that major concern, it's a nice piece of kit, with some welcome improvements in this model. Thanks.
I talked to an EE at EPsolar who said an older style mt50, made before October of 2017 will not sync with the new AN model charge controllers. If you look at the back side of the MT50 there is a date code that tells the build date
I just bought a Tracer 3210AN. I has only one inductor, not two. Really appreciate your reviews.
Thank you. I'm considering this controller and this was a great help.
Thx for the review i bought the tracer a 30a on your recommendation and have not regretted it for a minute !
my 7s 6p system is running well and i have connected the capacity controller to my home automation system so that it balances the batteries every day at 9 in the morning.
Excellent. Glad it’s working well for you and that integration sound interesting. I’d like to see that. Cheers
ill try to put something together video vise
I have the 30a version of the Tracer A at my cabin, with the MT50, I'm very happy with it.
I’m a happy tracer A user too.
I picked this model up (30amp) for my teeny solar setup on my old Lance Truck Camper with one 12V Deep Cycle battery. Not even sure what solar panel is on the roof lol, But it still works. Picked up the the MT50 monitor also. Shows 19.9 Volts and 0.2A coming from panel.
Good info. Thanks. The ones I can find go up to size a pretty small system per unit at 40A / 30A / 20A / 10A. So max size is probably around 700W mono panel total max at around 23% efficiency. So to be safe maybe 4 x 160W panels = 640W system. I was thinking of splitting the battery banks / systems anyway for redundancy, and have them run different loads on different circuits. So 2 x 40A units is around $229 USD for these units and a 1280W system split into two. Being a true MPPT charge controller is really good at that price, and mono panels are pretty cheap these days.
In this market at this. moment in the Netherlands everyone is speaking bullshit, no good information to be had. Resellers simply say "no this cannot be used offgrid" and try to get their feet in your door. This video finally showed me how it should be done. Many thanks!
So excites building this off grid room for my room end of next year
Hopefully....
about time they went common negative
They finally realized that people in the USA were buying them more than the Europeans.
I wonder if you can do the voltage doubler trick with the two units. Since they are swapped polarity common, you could use the output, potentially, from both to charge 48v systems with both set at 24v. You tie the commons together... Use + from one, and - from the other. (Do not try it, unless you want to risk the loss. But that is what you do with a computer PSU, if you want to double the volts from 12v to 24v systems.)
hi. no just the an model and the new meter.
old time engineer why would they make any positive ground anyway most things are neg common any way ?
Glad saw this vid, just recieve same MPPT 40A, manual says it was positive ground with line connecting pos symbols, but noticed buttons were blue with black heat sink, so did test and it made sound on neg, not pos, so it is neg not pos ground, yea, thanks for vid,
Yes the A model is common positive the AN is common negative. The A model is getting harder to buy now.
Hello Adam,the older 4210A version is different and better quality. The 4210AN version its have only 1 transformer inside like 30A model.The older 4210A version have 2 transformers.The 4210A weight is 1950gr and 4210AN weight is only 1650gr!!! The 4210AN lower quality but same price like 4210A!!!
Hi Jim
The difference in weight and number of transformers dosen't necessarily equate to a lower quality product. They may have actually increased both performance and reliability. Who knows?
The only thing we can say for sure is that the 'AN' is a different hardware design than the 'A'.
If EPEVER has indeed lowered their material/production costs while maintaining the same reliability of the 'A', at the same price point of the 'A', then all the power to them.
The 'AN' design didn't just fall out of a tree and into their laps. There are engineering, design verification and reliability test costs that may have totalled $100,000 or more along with production start up costs.
After all, EPEVER is in business to turn a profit, as every business should.
Regards........
Common negative is really only important if you're running a complex system, as doing this with common +ve poses special difficulties. My system is such a complex one so this is a very welcome improvement. I may look at getting one of these. Have been considering the Tracers for a number of years. Trouble is that solar panels have gotten even cheaper so it always ends up expensive controller vs more panels. Panels usually win. One day I might run out of room..then squeezing a bit more out of the existing ones would then become more pertinent.
But things are running very well here, 20 days out from the Winter Solstice here in New Zealand and have both made my coffee this morning & currently have the electric jug on. So it seems the system now holds up in all Seasons, providing of course the weather is fine.
Always good to hear from you Xan. I've been absolutely fine with a common positive set up for a couple of years now, but I know others don't like them, or as you say will struggle to implement them with a complicated system. I've pretty much run out of space on the shed so MPPT offers that little bit extra.
Glad to hear your getting through winter without too many issues.
A basic setup with solar panels to controller to battery it shouldn't matter one little bit whether it switches +ve or -ve. Or indeed both. I have found that some small controllers do their switching in the +ve line & their reverse blocking to the panels in the -ve line (or vice versa). In these cases you can't really have a +ve or -ve common between the panels & battery.
We're currently in the process of having Vikey set up his own personal little solar system with panels we bought cheap from Jaycar when they were having a sale a month or so ago. It'll mean he'll have some autonomy to run his computer on days when otherwise I may not let him due to power conservation measures. And it will also teach him responsibility and how to manage such a system. Not to mention of course he'll learn how to put one together.
just look at the inductor it is making out of the entire unit with no shielding!! please open it back up and zip tie the inductor wires so they run parallel, any ham in the area will thank you
I am a ham and your advice is most welcome, as I am about to install a solar panel system and was wondering about RF interference.
If found a bug with the tracer A, it is not pushing 40 A to the batteries after reaching max batt voltage and voltage reduces later, it charges around 32 A. Cutting solar power input and putting it back solves the problem and it push max 40 A again. I moved to the esmart3 60A to get 800W at 12V bat system from my 1000W panels. It is cooler with the fan but more noisy, ok, it is in the garage.
Hi Adam, I have just received the Tracer5210BP.. This product seems an looks to be a winner. It has no display but offers quit a heavy packaging with great cooling capabilities. Hope you will review it and I’m quite interested what you can make of it..
My an41510 has a resistor in the temp plug. I understand to remove it to plug the sensor in, but what is it's function? Why is it needed? Thanks.
Not heard of them supplying a resistor before - I have seen a small thermistor supplied just wired across a plug before. The thermistor measures the temperature - a resistor would allow the charge controller to read a fake temperature. It would be a fixed reading but perhaps they found it works better if it can read something.
Thank you for all your videos on the Tracer series. I recently upgraded from a PWM to a Tracer. I am interested and very confused at comparing the two chargers. The Tracer tells me how many amps are coming in from the panels and going out to the battery. The increase, as a percentage, varies dramatically. I seem to get the most impressive increase at lower current. For instance 1.5 amps into the EPever gives 2.1 amps to the battery, or 40% gain. But with more sun I might see 5 amps into the charger and 6 amps to my batteries, or 20% gain. Why isn't the percentage gain more consistent? What influences how much of a gain the MPPT charger can deliver?
just bought one today after using an old plasmatronics pl20 ,should be a great replacement .
Problem with the 8420 AN charge controller! FIXED! The screws for the 12 V. input were too short! Would not clamp tightly on the cables!Longer bolts fixed that defect! Metric size.
Hi Adam, is the software versions different on the two MT50's, I noticed in the manual that the communication time (ID) can very up to 6 minutes. See page 24. This maybe just the time before communication timeout, the manual is not very clear. Enjoy your videos, keep up the good work!
I will check this, but the fact that my rs485 to WiFi esp8266 module doesn’t work either makes me think there’s a change on the charge controller side. I suspect the rs485 chip has changed and perhaps it boots differently or can’t supply the power the esp8266. More testing required. Cheers
My first instinct was they "Renogy'ed" it, whatever keeps the OEM MT50 from talking to the renogy rebrands. If renogy rebadges this model maybe EP just wanted to have one config.
Hey chap! LOVE this vid. I'm considering the Tracer 8420AN. What FUSE TYPE/STYLE do you use between your EPEVER and your battery?
Nice done Adam!
Hi
I just wonder how the load timer 1 and 2 works.
Can u pls do video on this.
Thankyou
First of all, thank you for your videos, I've learned a lot. My question, I want to also setup in my garage with the EPEver charger and a 12 volt lithium battery. I've purchased the temp sensor. Can I program the controller to not charge the battery with the garage temperature is below freezing so that I can protect my battery?
Hi Adam,
Just a note on the MPPT from the manual:
A) Bulk Charging
In this stage, the battery voltage has not yet reached constant voltage (Equalize or Boost Voltage), the controller operates in constant current mode, delivering its maximum current to the batteries (MPPT Charging).
B) Constant Charging
When the battery voltage reaches the constant voltage setpoint, the controller will start to operate in constant charging mode, this process is no longer MPPT charging, and in the meantime the charging current will drop gradually, the process is not the MPPT charging. The Constant Charging has 2 stages, equalize and boost. These two stages are not carried out constantly in a full charge process to avoid too much gas precipitation or overheating of battery.
So only MPPT in the bulk charge step....
Have you got the timer control for the load to work?
I woul like to switch it on at say 10AM, and off at 6 PM.....
It is available to set in the PCsoftware, but does not work for me......or it takes a day to adjust?
Best rgds
Henrik
PS: Have since comment above solved the timer issue.....
The Epever system time needs to be manually set from the PCsoftware as it is not done automatically at connection between PC and the solar charger.
I have the common positive model. Can I charge my battery directly (from a generator at 12v) with this panel connected, without damaging the solar panel?
MPPT Malyalam reviews LINK:
th-cam.com/video/6Qojn4p-IrU/w-d-xo.html
Hello Adam and thank you for your excellent reviews. Been following your content and appreciate the time, effort and knowledge you are extending to newbies like me in the solar world.
I've just purchased an Epever AN controller and 100w panel to connect into an existing leisure battery in a campervan that is currently charged by alternator and 240v hook up charger. Would you know if diode protection for tbe EPever controller would be required to prevent current from the other charge devices damaging the Epever?
Glad to be of help. No you won’t need any protection on the charge controller. It can cope with being connected along side other chargers.
Excellent review.
Great review.
Cheers MrB
Very informative, thanks! Debating between this and the Victron SmartSolar. How would you compare the two? Are all MPPT’s about the same in conversion and getting max power from solar, and it’s the accessories that differentiate?
Yes probably price and accessories that make the biggest difference, but I haven’t tried the victron range, so it’s difficult for me to comment fully.
Hi Adam. Can you do me a favour and do a quick test if the AN will charge a battery if it's less than ~10.5v? I have a 40A Tracer A and use 3S li-ion for camping but the damned charger won't charge if the battery is below ~10.5v(maybe 10.4) even though 'User' settings can go down to 9v. I'm suspecting it's a firmware bug, otherwise, why have an option down to 9v if it doesn't actually work that low? Cheers.
Leave that one with me - I’ll see what I can do.
Hi Adam, did you ever determine if the AN behaves this way? I'm trying to decide whether I should sell the A and buy an AN. But, if the AN behaves the same way then I won't bother.
Oh, BTW, I also noticed very erratic charging behaviour between 10.5 and 11v, once it hit's 11v it works perfectly.
Hi Adam great videos I been and got a epever tracer an and while I was waiting I built the WiFi adapter as per Colin hicky post then watch ur review here to find out it struggles to connect could u tell me if any of the WiFi modules u tested work need to monitor it while my caravan is in storage( over the internet) I’m using a portable network in the van
Thanks Lee
I like your videos, great job! Have you ever reviewed the Juntek VAT#### meters as a battery monitor?
How do I reset the KWh meter on this device? Do you know? Please make a film.
what about the current shunt? high side or low side? if it is low side (negative) then connecting them together outside of the unit would possibly make the current go way too high (or effect the MPPT algorithm)
Thank you for this video
Recently purchased the tracer 2206, and really like it. Only thing is that although the load terminals are protected from overload, nowhere in the directions, or on line can I find what the rating is.
The load terminals are rated for the same current as the controller. Your 2206 is a twenty amp model, so the load terminals are rated for 20 amps.
Do you have a Install , setup video ?
Hi Adam, very interesting review. I have a request. You are always guessing on what power goes in and what power goes out. What you can do to come up with an accurate number is to start measuring Wh at the same time with both portapows for a minute or so and then make the division. I tried it with the uMPPT, works fine.
Nice idea. I’ll try to do that next time. Cheers
Hi Adam, nice presentation. Btw, i'm abit blurry about Common Negative/Common positive solar charger mentioned in the video. What does that means?
Thanks. Common negative solar charge controllers have their solar, battery and load negative connections all permanently connected together and the switch to connect them together is in the positive side of the circuits. Common positive solar charge controllers have all their positive connections connected together permanently and they are are switched in the negative side of the circuit. It’s easier to switch the negative side in this application (which is why common positive is popular) from a circuit design point of view, but as users we tend to imagine the positive side would be switched. Both can be used in almost every environment - but a common positive charge controller in a vehicle (which is common negative by design) can cause you probable a if you don’t think about the wiring and isolation!
@@AdamWelchUK How about fuses and 1P circuit breakers? Usually people will attach fuses on positive side of the wires. Will the fuses/1P circuit breakers change its position when applied to this Common Negative situation?
You can still put your fuse or breaker in the positive side on both types of controller as long as there are no other routes the current can take.
@@AdamWelchUK Thank you for the explanation. Looking forward to watch your next video content. Cheers & Merry Xmas.
I wonder if the MT50 has a Baud Rate change and that's why the old one won't work anymore. Maybe the new one tries various baud rates till it gets good signal return. The old one doesn't have that function. Just a thought. (maybe you can reflash the old one with the new software/firmware?)
Nice theory. I can adjust the baud rate on my esp8266 adapter so I could try that. I’ll report back if there is anything to update.
Very helpful videos. Wondering if you saw any issue in an RV application running the RV's stock 12V converter/charger output to the controller input ? I'd like to have more control over the charging profile of the RV battery which the stock converter/charger doesn't allow like the epever. Guess my thoughts are voltage is voltage whether its from a solar cell or other source ? Thanks !
Hello great vids thank you ... Question , I have a 10 amp version using 4mm cable , if I put 200 watt of panel on and its input goes just over 10 amps sometimes ( I live in the UK) what would happen. Thank u in advance
Good review as ever, did the new controller come with any documentation or link to updated docs which might describe the pin out of the accessory connector. You could maybe get your scope or a logic analyzer on it to see which pins are now used for the output as it sounds like they've switch things around or a baud rate change maybe and the same pins?
The pin out is the same as stated in the manual (although when you click the manual link online for the AN it is the A series manual you get). I think the baud rate is a good shout - my scope doesn’t do logic, but the timings might tell me. Otherwise I can try some different settings on the usb cable and see what works and what doesn’t. Thanks Colin.
HI Adam, thanks for your awesome videos series about MPPTs, would love to have a review of this one : Victron BlueSolar XX/XX MPPT Charge Controller, i heard many good reviews but none from you :) thx
The odd SOC ca be adjusted by lowering the minimum battery disconnect values. I don’t get why EPEVER will not allow the battery to show the true SOC as would be the common 12.74=100% and about 12.20 =50%
I will try that, thank you.
@Adam Welch
Hi, I have the Tracer AN and I'm trying to use the EPever USB cable to get data to my Pi Zero W but all I get is:
Realtime Data
Cannot get RealTime Data
Statistical Data
Cannot get Statistical Data
I know the your old MT50 and your diy wifi module wouldn't work with the Tracer AN. But could you try your Pi connects and can get data via USB please?
just bought one and ran back to check to see what color the buttons were
Hi Adam
Its been over a month since you did the the review on the Tracer AN.
Have you been using the Tracer AN on your setup since the review, instead of, or as well as, the Tracer A.
I am interested in knowing if there has been any noticeable efficiency gains with the Tracer AN over the Tracer A.
I appreciate that the weather we are experiencing is un-usually sunny, with a noticeably increased temperature, which will effect all parts of the system - controller, solar panels, cabling and the battery pack. Hopefully there is some part of your monitoring system which may provide some data which can aid in my request.
Any information would be appreciated.
Thanks for your question. I have got the tracer AN running in the shed, but it’s on a small setup - a 50w panel and a 12Ah battery. So there are so many variables it’s hard to tell if it has any efficiency gains over its predecessor. My gut feeling is no, there’s no real advantage to one over the other. The primary reason for the change is the negative ground, and perhaps there has been some cost efficiencies for epever. The big shame for me is the lack of backwards support on the RS485 port, which I believe is due to a software change in the controller. It’s a great controller as long as you know those minor (for most people) limitations.
My charger controller is not working that I other other one I wish i had mentors to fix it or tell me what is wrong
hi Adam i have a solar system with 24v 250Ah gel battery and 300w solar panel
so my problem is the earthing rod, can i use my house's rod ?
because neer my solar system i have an outlet with the earting cable so why not use that one
Gosh Adam twas a nightmare to get it to talk to my PC - got there in the end - once you download the driver and unwrap it in winra you have to track it down in device manager then double click to alter the port configured to tick the RJ45 box - setting the configure was the easy bit : )
Glad you got through it.
@@AdamWelchUK Yes thanks - we set it up rather conservatively so it cycles our 105ah lifepo4 battery between 20% & 85% with no float - we have that clever battery meter - so we can tweak it in use as needed - Its the new EVever tracer and has a few features like battery protect and over temperature protect in a lithium battery setting
This is a great video! Thank you. I have a 3210a and have been considering buying a 3210an because several people have told me that the "a" version doesn't charge my LiFePO adequately. I just bought two new 100ah LIFePO batteries and want to make sure I am getting full charge out of them. In your video (at 4:40), I think you say that you can't select the Lithium setting unless you have the software?...am I hearing you right? I also am glad you mentioned that I would need a new MT50. And I agree, that is frustrating!
Thanks again for a great video. I started following you today and your information about solar is great!
Cheers Jon. Yes the comms seems to have changed a little on the AN so you need a recent MT50. It’s annoying.
Thanks for the kind comments.
@@AdamWelchUK I watched a ton of your videos! Great learning tools! Thank you!.. So, I have LiFePO4 Batteries.. Can I select that battery type without a computer? By just using the two buttons on the front of the tracer ? Do you recommend any other MPPT controllers? If I have to buy a new meter, and hook the controller to a computer (i only have Apple computers...) , it seems like there might be a better option.What do you think?
Jon Hansen Sadly you’ll need the EPEver software which is PC only - unless you have an android phone? To connect to the charge controller you need a usb cable (or you can make one), the ebox-WiFi or the ebox-Bluetooth. If those aren’t options for you then perhaps another charge controller would be better. Shame though.
Hello
I'm new to the solar world, how much of a benefit is the lithium system over gel batterys of same capasity.
Is there perhaps a 50 percent benefit or 25 percent benefit.
I've been following posts be no real live answers.cheeers
Would you say this was suitable for marine use, given the pcb protection coating? Is there anything stated in the specs about marine use? Thanks. I enjoy your videos.
Andy Pag covering the board with liquid tape could be a nice idea 😉
Hi, I'm in the process of upgrading my shed solar power system from 2x 100w panels connected in parallel on PWM 12v lead acid and am thinking of getting the 30amp version of this MPPT. My question is this... the Epever tracer 3210AN 30a version states it's good up to 390w of PV input but I want to use 4x 100w panels, do you think the 10w difference will make a difference ? Can't seem to get a response from Epever themselves on this and I'd rather not pay the extra for the 40amp version which is rated up to 520w 12v.
The manual for the tracer A & AN series has two figures for the solar input. The lower rating which you’ve seen but also a much higher rating (for the 40 amp controller I think it’s 1200 watts). My understanding of that is that the charging current is limited to the rated output, but you can attach more solar to the input. In the event of good sun the charge controller will limit the incoming to not exceed the rated output. The advantage of this is that when sky conditions are poor, you’ll have more solar coming in than if you just stuck within the rated output. So my understanding is you’ll be absolutely fine.
@@AdamWelchUK Thanks for the reply. The specs state that for 12v system the max PV input is 390w or double for 24v, however after doing some more research into solar panels I've come to the conclusion that you will never get what it says on the tin anyway ! so my 100w panels are probably more like 80w or even less and I very much doubt I'll get their max amperage out of them unless I live in the middle of the Sahara desert either ! So I'm pretty positive that even in the perfect UK sunshine my 400w of panels won't exceed 30amps.
Hey Adam great videos... I have three controllers and wondered if you have connected multiple controllers. Mine is powertech but epever software works fine.
Thanks you for the review
Good afternoon Adam, it has been several years since I installed my 40w Tracer AN in my shed (2018 to be precise ) and at the time I installed two 100w solar panels on the roof. What I would like to know please is how many watts input will my controller accommodate? I am thinking of expanding it's capabilities to the maximum and making more use of the system which has languished along happily without much use at all, just some internal and external DC lighting. Thanks'.
Another great video and review! Thanks!
Good to know that I might have to buy a new MT50 meter. Worth it though if I can get negative ground.
I need to check the software versions on both my meters - I’ll try to let you know so you can check yours.
So the meter that doesn’t work shows version number V01.32+V01.60 in the meter para section. The meter that does work is version V2.14+V01.60 So my guess is that the first number is the software version, and the second number the hardware. Hope that helps you.
Adam Welch Thanks for the info!
Getting the new charge controller will definitely require me to get a new meter it would seem; But ah well, such is life.
I wonder if there's a way to upgrade the meter software version? Probably would involve something to emulate the CC to power it on, and then maybe the RS485 serial to USB interface.
This new unit is almost the same as the POW-Keeper1240 inside apart from the 2 inductors.
Im trying to decide between one of these and the electrodacus....This seems like a tried and true tech, the dacus is really experimental but has a bms and I definitely want to go LifePo4.....Are you familiar with the Electrodacus system?
Good video.
What is the cheapest real MPPT Solar charge controller?
Isnt "common negative" should allways be the standard?
Whats the pros/cons of common positive??
I bought the 40amp version from Amazon that comes with all the goodies like the mt50. Question ? It says it has a max of 100volts and a max of 520 solar input wattage. In your video your one 100 watt panel is putting out 31 volts which is confusing because if 3 100 watt panels put out say an average of 31v each for a total of 93 volts. How can I run 5- 100 watt panels without exceeding the max 100 volt limit ? My plan was to run this epever 40amp 100v with five 100 watt panels. Thanks 😊 🙏
Hopefully your still on Adam, you've been my go to in learning about solar systems and whats available. Thank you for that Sir. I do have a question though,,I'm on a bit of a budget and can't quite afford the Midnight controller I'd really like.
I'm only doing a small system and I'll be having no more than 700 watts worth of panels and would like to know what you would suggest for a quality MPPT controller and 3000- 3500 watt pure sine wave inverter that is budget friendly. There are just so many options I don't want to go about it hit or miss and just end up wasting money on junk.
My budget is around 6-700 USD total for those 2 items . Panels and flooded batteries I have already.
Any suggestions you may have would be VERY MUCH appreciated indeed.
Thanks for the kind comments. I always find it difficult to recommend devices because I only have so much experience with kit, and much of that experience is on low price range kit. The best brand I’ve looked at is EPEver and I think it gives a lot of bang for your buck, but... they often have little niggles and limitations you might not get with premium brands. I can’t recommend midnite or victron (although they look brilliant) because I haven’t used them. With such a big inverter I think you need to consider your battery bank voltage too - higher is probably better.
I’ve not really answered your question I’m afraid.
@@AdamWelchUK I{ve been seriously considering a Outback flexmax 60 which is on the upper end of my budget. It seems the most of the 4 star reviews on the Chineese made ones only have about a 60-70% positive at best. And longivity and failures seem to be the main problems. I've found the outback for 400USD and they have a 5 year warentee with 90%+ positive company reviews for service.
Have you had experiance with the Outbacks? It seems this would be the ideal one but I cirtenly like to get advice from someone wih much more experiance than myself with these systems. Thank You so much for your help Adam.
just got my self this model interesting video
Hi mate did you get the wifi blue box
Very good video keep it up
Hello Adam, just connected one with the solar (nice sunny day, 4pm here in uk) and controller shows night and all PV figures are 0. Is that what is shows even when low light? Shouldn’t it produce at least something ? Thanks for your videos
great. I was hoping you would check this out for us! thanks a million. I almost got one of these . in 40 amp. in fact I thought I did. though after looking over my order. I noticed I ordered the A series. I guess I ordered the cheapest and it ended up being an A! I haven't used mine with lithium yet. would it be best to use the temp. sensor with the lithium or does it matter. thanks again..
At the moment I’ve found the AN is cheaper - new model I guess without the reputation so they’re trying to make some sales. As fit the temperature probe - it’s primary function is to adjust the charging voltage depending on temperature. If it’s cold, it charges a little higher for example. I guess that could be a problem for lithium but might not be such a big issue in practice. Perhaps there’s a test or two in there.
Hi Adam if I get an rj45 splitter can I use the mt50 and the Bluetooth device at same time ? Thanks for any advice
Hi Adam,nice video. My old ebox-wifi not work with my new 4210AN but work perfectly with the other 3210AN what i have. Strange right?Unfortunatly my old 4210A died sudenly after 4 year of use. Cheers
Hey Adam - been a subscriber for a couple of months now and really like your work, thank you!
I am just exploring solar and starting small and inexpensive - having purchased a 12V battery maintainer panel, which suggests 12V LA only - could I safely use it for a 6V lead acid battery?
By the by, I have just ordered one of the cheapy PWM controllers but it is four weeks away!
Are you Amazon UK affiliated? Thanks again, V... 👍🏻🌞😎🐍
Hello. Yes the panel and 6v battery should work ok. Solar panels don’t store energy, so when you connect them to a battery they produce a voltage just above the battery voltage. So a PWM solar charge controller will pulse that connection and prevent any over charge (assuming the PWM controller is set for 6v obviously). I have a few amazon links on some of my videos, but my viewers seem to use eBay more.
Enjoy your system. Thanks for watching.
Adam Welch - Wow, thank you for taking the time to reply so quickly, much appreciated! And you’re very welcome, your stuff is informative, educational and always interesting... 👍🏻
Actually, I meant the panel connected direct to the 6V before the PWM arrives? 🤔 🐍
You could set your batteries in series , so the system voltage could be 12V .
The Epever claims that the Tracer charge controllers can be connected in parallel. Can one connect A-series and AN-series charge controllers in parallel (provided that none of them is grounded or not grounded together)?
Good question!
Hello Adam, I have bought a MPPT controller from Epever, to charge my two leisure batteries. The leisure batteries being charged by 300w solar panel via 30A MPPT charger that produces around 25amp max imho. These two batteries are than connected to my inverter which is powering my plugs inside the van (it's an off grid ready set up). There is another leisure battery just for 12v lights inside the caravan providing a spark for the hobs and ALDE heating system. I need to find a solution how to keep that one charged as well (when I am not towing as I won't be connecting it to a mains bcs I get my power from solar). I was thinking about a device such as 'self switching voltage sensing split charge relay, but I only found 30 and 140 Amp versions, but hence my panels will never make so much Amps I don't think the charging will ever take place. Is there an elegant solution to this you or your followers would be happy to recommend? Pls only comment, if you've done something similar or have relevant knowledge. Thank you.
Adam what causes battery boiling?
you should review a tracer 1206an or 1210an
Hi just setup one of these. The one with the orange buttons. How do you set charge voltage? I don’t have a communication cord. Or the external display device. Any info greatly appreciated
Do you have a video on how to adjust the settings? Thanks!
I've had the Tracer 20 amp 'A' series in my 5th wheel trailer for about 3 years and somehow never realized it was not negative ground! I've never used the 'load' terminal... I remounted it in a 'newer' 5th wheel trailer recently and am now running 300 watts of solar... I had been running 150 watts but now have 4 - 75 watt panels that are in series 'pairs' so they go in as 24 volts to the charger. I have set the parameters in the MT-50 to match charging spec. for my 2 Trojan T-105 6v batteries ( I will be upping that to 4 when I Install my recently acquired Magnum 2000 watt inverter ) . I've NEVER had an issue with the unit on my NEG. ground system... + to the batteries and - to chassis ground. Is there any reason I should now be concerned ?? thanks, Jim
The only issue is if you were connecting the solar negative to you vehicle chassis. That would effectively bypass the charge controller and possibly overcharge your batteries, and prevent MPPT. I usually explain it’s not an issue for most, it’s just something you need to be aware of.
Hello Adam, great content, been watching for a while now, I’ve got an Epever tracer with remote ebox internet access aswell as an mt50 but struggling to set my 5 x lead acid battery’s 70ah each, any advice would be great,
Hi Adam, thank you for the review on the AN series. I have a portable power station powered by 18650s in 3S, the provided AC adapter for charging is at 12.6V 5A. I am considering getting 2206AN to connect my solar panel to charge up the portable power station. 2 questions. First, would you recommend that this as a suitable MPPT controller. Second, do you know if we can disable the floating stage charging through the PC app? Thanks!
Hello, see my last comment (sort by Newest First) - I've just bought one. I'm new to solar, so take my words with a pinch of salt, but info is there in the hope it helps someone. I'm pretty impressed with it and exceeded my expectations, considering I don't get that much sun. Currently only using 18650 7S2P as I haven't got enough batteries yet.
Hiya my Tracer AN has stopped working completely, is there anything I should check, internal fuses etc.. thanks in advance
I just got "epever BLE RJ45 A BLE adapter. but now discovering it will not connect to my phone with the apps available. the conpatability said "AN SERIES", and I just figured it was the same. bummer. Fortunately I already have a triron N series coming. Nlol. Now your telling me my old meter won't work with my new controller. oh well, the old will stay with the old and the new will stay with the new. BUT now I'm more confused by you saying the "e box" bluetooth adapter works with both?
Hi, just a question if you have the MT-50 and Wireless device i presume you cannot use them both at a time its either or? Thanks for the Vid the reason I bought a tracer 4210AN
Hi there. I've set this up in my van...No inverter. What is the first things I should do and how do I do them (or once set up just leave it do it's thing without touching it?)
Hi Adam,
I have two tracer A series controllers running in my system. Can I connect this AN series com. negative controller to my existing battery bank? I haven't grounded my system. it is in float state. are you using it with your A series controllers?
appreciate your advice on this.
thanks.
Hello
Did you solve the problem of compatibility of the old MT50 driver with the new MPPT Tracer?
Maybe it is enough to change the control cables inside?
My old 100 volt , 20 amp , tracer "A" SERIES, has 2, 25 amp fuses. I think they are,in parallel. Isn't that 50 amp?
Hi Adam. I'd like to know your thoughts on the esmart3 MPPT solar charge controller?
Hi Adam, why dosent the Tracer An ask for the the total amp hours in my battery bank? Or did I miss something during the install? BTW, thank for all your posts.
No it doesn't. To change this you need to set it up via the MT50 or use another way to run the app or software on a PC. You've got bluetooth, wifi, network and usb options available to you.
When will you test the new Upower series? Investor/Charger
As soon as I can get my hands on one!
I’m replacing an cs-evolution charger with an epever but my current charger has an output for the vehicle battery and the epever does not. Where do I put them wires. Thanks in advance.
Hello again Adam. I'm trying to set up a 433mhz data transceiver for this charge controller. I have the transceiver linked and powered however I'm getting "operation failed. The operation has timed out" in the epever software, even just using a normal rs485 to usb I have the same issue. I wonder is there something I'm missing?