Noise & Vibration in your Camper Van
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 พ.ย. 2024
- Mercedes Sprinter Camper Van Noise and Vibration Control.
In this video, we apply a sound-deadening material to the van.
This is to reduce the possibility of noise generated by vibration.
Take a look at this short demonstration video showing exactly how effective this material is for deadening sheet materials.
• Anti Vibration Damping...
You can purchase this material from eBay via this link:-
rover.ebay.com...
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Thank you for watching
#gregvirgoe #vanlife #tinyhome
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EXTRA NOTES - You may find that your panels rattle because they have come unstuck from each other. I recommend using some Sikoflex mastic to stick the inner and outer skins back together, before applying sound deadening material. A good inspection of each panel and inner stiffeners will highlight where repairs are necessary. Hope that helps and thank you for watching.
Might be worth mentioning that a bit of heat helps in cold weather - I fitted mine in 2 degree weather and found that a quick blast of a heat gun prior to application made the material much sticker and much easier to work with.
Sounds like a top tip Duncan, all these things are better applied when it's a bit warmer. Cheers
Ive found a few of those, even some that looked attached but did move around!
Thanks for the great series
Greg Virgoe All the videos you make are so helpful.
Thank you, Really pleased that you find them to be useful.
It needs to be said that there are techniques and methods in this conversion series being employed by Greg that are still not being utilised in some mainstream motorhome manufacturing , for reasons of cost or time , who knows , but Ultimately this sprinter conversion series is gaining the attention of likeminded people across the world , and is drawing a very thick line under self build conversion in a very positive way ! A converter who has researched every aspect of the build, is willing to record and share his findings in a selfless and honest way , remains open to criticism and scrutiny , but remains steadfastly helpful throughout.
wow, I'm truly humbled by your amazing comment. That's very kind of you.
I would say it is all down to cost and time in a lot of cases but hopefully, I can show that it can be done very well on a reasonable budget and timescale by a home builder. I'm not saying this is the way to go as there are many products and ways to achieve the same if not better results. With my explanation of WHY I'm doing this way will give others the knowledge to make informed decisions of their own.
My aim when I set out to do this conversion was to make it the best I could within my own budget and skill level.
I have no doubt you spend far more money than I have but I hope to have a van that can rival any professionally built motorhome but for a 1/4 of the total price.
I have just purchased a VW Transporter Van and watching your videos from start to finish has just been amazing! It has made me realise there are some jobs I can now do myself, thank you Greg. Garry
Oh I love people who use 'sound reason' to solve a problem. You worked out by reason what I had to discover by 'necessity'. Many years ago I was a rather 'pocket poor' youth with a 'nightmare loud' Landrover. I could only afford a metre of the sound deadening material and so chose to stick squares of it to the door, foot plate, and side walls of the 'rover. I was so impressed! Covering every centimetre is certainly not required. Imagine how covering a whole vehicle adds un-necessary weight, costs a lot, and you have to use up valuable fuel to drag it around. Impressed.
Just for future reference I work at a commercial body shop and use this stuff all the time and it is much more pliable and user friendly if you warm it up a little it moulds to the panel extremely easily and sticks loads better. Loving the content and the whole build quality 👍
That's a great tip, I remember it was really cold when I shot this video.
The day I installed it was 110 degrees in my van, I found a couple areas where I had missed after installing insulation, that day was 70 degrees in the van, oh lordy was it a lot harder! My advice, cut your pieces in a warm room with a heat source, then park your van in the sun and let it heat up, then go in and apply. If you have to do it cooler weather trap a good sized heater inside till everything is warmed through. 110 was grueling but the job was fast. Using a heat gun without the warm air didn't help as much as the hot day.
Thanks Greg. I've bought an old ambulance that I'm converting. Your detailed informative videos are helping me no end. All the panels that you needed to sound deaden or your van, are actually windows on mine. Thanks again. Strong work!
Yep they are the only large ones that don’t have much dampening already built in 👍🏼😁
These videos are absolutely unbelievable. They're exactly what someone who's converting a van needs to see!
Monsieur, you just saved me +£160 on soundproofing, by demonstrating why we just need to apply a couple of "blocks" of that deadening sheet material, and n0 need to cover the whole panel. Owe you a Lager. Or two.
Bruno Gradi I’m really pleased that has saved you some hard earned cash. Happy days! 😀
Extremely helpful - I am using my MB van for transporting freight and DID NOT want to use a lot of this dampener. Thank you for showing me that I didn't need to cover the whole wall - just add small panels. A+
The sole purpose of this deadening mat is to prevent flat sheet steel from vibrating.
And only needs to be applied to the large flat panels. I’m small pieces covering no more than 80% of that flat panel.
Don’t worry about the floor as it’s much thicker and creased.
Or the small flat panels even the roof is usually creased so they do not tend to vibrate.
Your thermal insulation will also provide the acoustic attenuation of outside road noises. Hope that helps 👍🏼
Hadn’t a clue where to start quieting my caddy down but now have learned a lot from this video especially differences between sound deadening and sound proofing easily mistaken for the same thing great video Greg
Also different methods fir dealing with noise depending on how it’s generated. Either by vibration or transmission. The sticky deadening mats deal with vibration. A dense foam insulation is better to deal with noise transmission from outside like wheel arches etc.
This is a very special episode, as it ends on a "thank you" instead of "cheers".
Anyway, your build series is wonderful because it is very detailed and practical.
Unzyme I must applaud you for your observation skills and you have obviously watched a few of my videos too so that does deserve a thank you 😊
Adding mass lowers the natural frequency and adding stiffness increases the natural frequency. I am an M.E. and vibration analyst and consultant and when I do my van build ( hopefully Spring ‘23) I plan on actually testing this material and documenting how and to what extent it actually works.
As I said in the video it definitely helps on the large flat panels. I don’t see the point of putting it anywhere else as the manufacturer has done enough to combat vibration. 😊
I never knew what those cresses from the roof are for. Thank you for explaining!
Glad you found it interesting
I have no words. Just an absolute legend and anyone even considering doing a conversion should consider this man as their bible.
Side note - other religion based books are available
David Culwick that is brilliant. Thank you 😊
Brill channel 👍 sound deadening is like adding a weight to a subwoofer ,more mass to move so the lower the hz generated
Correct lower frequency resonance = lower sound
Great demo, Greg! The US version is called Noico. Ken from Ourkaravan uses it, and so does George from Humble Rd. George also uses Heavy Mass Vinyl for futher sound proofing all over and absorbing heat. But Mass Vinyl sheeting is very heavy on the downside.
you are a genius. I've been looking into doing my own van conversion but couldn't find any good tutorial videos or tips and tricks so thank you. you show, you give detailed explanations, all the information one would need.
Thank you, glad that it was useful to you.
Good stuff. Still can’t believe the number of TH-camrs who totally coat their van in sound deadening material!
There are a couple of suppliers that promote that on their websites but as you’ve seen it’s totally unnecessary. 👍🏼😃
I love this series, it's so incredibly informative, especially for someone who's just starting out with little to no prior knowledge! Excellent job, keep the videos coming! :)
Thank you Tori, really pleased you are finding them useful to you 😃
I've done quite a bit of research, having just started a van conversion, and Greg is producing what is quite possibly the video equivalent of the Haynes Build Your Own Motorcaravan, alas John Wickerman is no longer with us but it would have been interesting to get his take on this series. (Tori there are a few online forums that may also assist, SBMCC has helped me.)
Edit: My apologies its 'John Wickersham'
Gwydion Ball thank you very much! I'll definitely check them out!
Love your videos! Once you finished i think i gained enough confidence (thanks to your easy to follow tutorials) to start my own conversion. Can't wait!
My aim is to give some clear advice that will help you make informed decisions about your own build and if that has in turn given you some confidence to tackle this yourself then I'm really pleased. Thanks for such great feedback and best wishes with your own conversion.
Having worked in automotive acoustics engineering for a major vehicle manufacturer for 30+ years (and other automotive expertises for my sins), I would wholeheartidly agree with Greg on the measures for eliminating the drumming in the rear and letting the insulation do the absorbtion. What is missing are the noise measures in the cab, especially when driving. Harvey Smith correctly identifies the front doors and using deadening pads (don't forget to reseal the water curtain sealing). Self Build Camper and Greg's reply to the floor and bulkhead around the large noise and vibration generator (engine) are also very important. Some tips if you want to go the whole hog:
1) On the cab floor and firewall fit a layer of 20mm felt sound absorber. Yes, you really have to get it up to the windscreen, behind the dash and under the carpet. Size for size, it is MUCH better than foam. It should be quite "spongy", and usually being made of recyled cloth, make sure it is good uniform quality as bits of old stitching and seams cause noise transmission paths. (Don't know what's behind the headlining)
2) Anything that goes into the engine compartment has to be fireproof or self-extinguishing (all that fuel and oil vapour absorbed and very hot radiated heat). I suggest leave well alone.
OK, keep up the good work. Great videos. Spring is going to be here sooner than you expect!
Thanks Norman, some excellent additional notes there. Much appreciated.
Why not use Silent Silver from Amazon which is a closed cell neoprene sheet with a foil mylar coating? It is thin at 1/8" thickness, waterproof, thermal insulation, sound deadening, and very flexible. Felt can degrade with moisture, not this stuff. I'm surprised no one is using it. Its a great underlayment for wood floors or carpeting. One of the best. And its pretty cheap too.
Hi Greg. Just wanted to say thank you for these videos. So much light has been shed. I'm on the lookout for a van but was actively looking for one that had all the windows in place as I thought window installation would be financially crippling. Thanks for alleviating my worries
Hello, my windows I brought from vanpimps and they were £99 each. They often do promotions like this weekend just gone they had 20% off everything. Fitting service from glass for vans was £180 for the two windows. They also will supply the windows and may do a combined deal.
Always best to ask I find. Glad you found these to be useful.
That's a new one. So simple and so effective. I'll bet other manufacturers try to put more insulation to get the effect but it's about the science. Loving this series as I would love to convert a Sprinter or Iveco one day.
It is amazing what skills we learn at work that we can use in other area's.
Your daily job does seem to be coming in handy in so many ways on the camper.
Simply clear demonstration as usual.
I would add taking the front door cards off and doing the front doors but I think they may have already been done knowing Mercedes. Some manufacturers don't do the front doors on their van versions.
I drive a Vito at the moment, which they also make into a people carrier, the people carrier always seems so much quieter, I think I have found out why now! Thanks Greg.
Hi Harvey, being a mechanical services engineer I deal with Heating, cooling, Water, plumbing, ventilation, controls, basically every building service you can think of. As we are turning this van into a home it all applies in one form or another. What I'm really enjoying in being able to pass that knowledge and years of experience on to help others make hopefully better decisions about their own build. Thanks for great feedback.
I am already a very experienced carpenter.However, As I watch your video’s I continue to learn so much on the total build.Thank you for the great classes.If you put this in an illustrated book it would surely be the best seller on the rv circuit . This has to drive the “Big Industry Manufacturers” crazy.
Just starting out on an old 2006 Fiat Ducato 2.8JTD - your guidance is a Godsend!
What I love about the video (and all the others in the series) is that it doesn't just tell you how to do something, but also why to do it in that particular way rather than any other. I work in acoustics and industrial noise control and your explanation of how the sound-proofing works is right on the money! I think its worth pointing out that while the rockwool insulation is very effective for sound insulation, the rigid Kingspan boards don't really help much. BUt given their superior thermal performance, I guess its a reasonable trade-off in order to keep the van nice and warm.
Hello Arthur, I have seen so many videos where people don’t know how to use the materials or why so that was the aim of all my videos to give factual advice. I agree with your statement re PIR insulation offering less absorption than rock wool. I think once the vibration has been deadened the breakout is less of an issue.
Classic misuse of sound deadening May is wrapping the wheel arches in it.
They are naturally very rigid so the only issue is noise transmission which you really need dense foam or rock wool to combat that.
I see some wrap their entire van and think what a waste of money and time.
Thank you Greg, I've watched several of your video's. I have a factory make campervan that I saved from the scrapyard and renovated it but it's a small one and I really fancy converting my own larger van. I've watched several other people doing van conversions and watching your video's they are in depth with explanations, no way would I have thought or seen anyone doing the sound deadening procedures. You're the guy to follow for a proper van conversion. Many thanks.
Thank you Jeff for such great feedback, really appreciate your kind words thank you
Wow I never even thought about noise regulation. I figured my insulation would do all that could be done. Thanks for the info as usual!
Hi Sarah, like I said in the video most manufacturers already do a lot to prevent noise being generated. Your insulation alone will give you sound attenuation as well as it’s thermal properties. Maybe some older vans suffer more with rattles than the newer versions. Thank you for watching
underrated creator thanks for all the tips time to start ordering and building out the van
Another amazing video Greg!
We just got back from lockdown in Spain in our motorhome, binge watching your videos as we just bought a new van to convert!
You're videos, demo's, explanation and teaching skills are out of this world. Thank you so much, we will probably use as many of your links as we can - where we can, just to feel a little like we're giving something back! Really appreciate it. If there's any main bits of advice for what "not" to do, that would be great. Maybe a new video idea :) I only say this because we worry that we may miss something and realise once there's no going back!
Thank you!! I grew up working on cars from the 60's so I was no stranger to using sound deadening. I'm doing a van conversion now and watching how much butyl rubber sheet people use, it seemed excessive. I worry the lay person confuses sound deadening with sound proofing. NVH (Noise, Vibration, and Harmonics) is actually an interesting part of vehicle design - RVs and conversion vans are definitely unique, as you can often be more concerned about noise characteristics while parked than while driving.
Cracking video Greg - I have no intention of converting a van - I just find this stuff interesting. I do like the way you explain things without getting too involved in the deep science - but just enough to grab what is relevant. Basically the side panels of the van are a drum skin and the pad is the equivalent of holding your hand on the drum skin. :-)
You got it exactly Norman 😀
Thank you for following my channel always a pleasure to read your comments 👍🏼
I too enjoy how you describe how things work and why. Keep the videos coming, my good man.
Ah this finally answers what those little panels are on metal when seen timelaspe of video builds.
Hope it has helped 👍🏼😃
Oh, that's what those creases are for in ducting! Learn something new every day. Thanks!
Lol.. I always wondered the same thing.
You’ve just saved me a small fortune! Many thanks 🙏🏼
No problem 😉 I’m glad that has helped you make the right decision. Hope your build goes well. 👍🏼
Those LED strips with the smart phone app are epic! Great price too, great find, cheers Greg!!
Steven Williams, they are a fun addition and really cheap too
First: I like to thank you for the free information and the excellent demonstration. I was so use to seen others putting on large strips. I figure it was going to cost ALOT. But this demonstration proves ALOT is not necessary. Second: why would anyone give thumbs down to free information? damn. Anyway, thank you again for your informative video, very helpful!
This is very helpful to find. I am looking up videos on sound dampening because I'm not planning on really adding any insulation to my van, and I too have seen videos and pictures of people going absolutely crazy, covering every square inch of interiour surface with sound dampening. If all it does it add weight really, then there's no real need for it.
Also, thank you for actually doing the knock test before and after you apply panels. It's very hard to find that in videos covering sound dampening for some reason.
What climate or location do you plan to travel in? I presume somewhere warm.
@@GregVirgoe Hello Greg, thank you for replying. I live in Ontario Canada and plan to live in a van for a while in a city.
@@GodOfReality what are the temperatures like. I heard it gets very cold in winter ❄️🥶⛄️
@@GregVirgoe It can, it depends where in Canada. The coldest places in Canada are actually in the centre, in the prairies. Northern Ontario can get pretty cold but this winter in Southern Ontario it's only been as cold as -25 C give or take a bit. Nothing too bad, just means you need gloves and a hat.
I’ve used the DODo mats...Thanks Greg ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Thank you very much. I never knew that I only need to use small squares to do the trick! Thanks for saving a lot of money and weight on the VAN.
You are most welcome David, really glad these videos are helpful to others.
Great videos Greg. I’ve watched a lot of videos on conversions and I think yours are more considered and well thought out by miles. Thank you
Thank you very much Phil, much appreciated.
I'm in the middle of converting my Chevy Blazer 4x4 SUV ..I removed the rear seats and have to do some custom framing to fill in the floor gaps to 1 level wood floor And a bed frame above the Wheel wells ...For noise reduction And a basic thermo break I used a rubber spray about 1/2' on the floor and outter panel walls I shopped around And for full coverage it was cheaped then the sound deadening And your able to get hard to reach places I followed with framing And then a friend that worked for a Pro insulation Gave me a 10 min spray foam job on the floor and sides and roof (2 inches) for a case of beer and get in and out Otherwise $300 plus tax (13%) I also drilled holes into some of the framing and ran a thin PVC pipe for wiring so i am able to run any extra wiring from 2 sides of the truck front to back left and right And a floor outlet for outside hook ups of power
All said and done i have this 1 rattle coming from the driver door which is a soild metal arm for closing and openning the door from the inner door handle Driving me bonkers lol
Outstanding tips and instruction, Greg.
Thank you very much. Cheers
Thanks for all the handy tips, which are clear and will definitely help me with the construction of my camper within a few weeks, love it.
What type of van are you going for and what are your travel plans?
Greg Virgoe im still looking around for a : l3 h2 renault master, black or grey....im from Belgium...when are you uploading the next helpfull vid? Cant wait, keep the good work!
There will be a few this week. I have 4 in the edit room now.
Thanks for this video, Greg. I use my van for long distance deliveries to France and this is such a simple fix to make life more pleasant in a van's normal use.
Here's to a quieter future for you Chris. Thanks for watching
That was actually extremely useful to know. Thank you for passing that along.
ElitePreacher you are welcome. Glad you liked it.
Wish I knew this before purchasing all that noise isolation material, much more than I need apparently. But thank you for your always informative videos.
Hello, if you've not fitted it yet then maybe resell what you don't use to another van builder. If you have fitted it already then you will benefit from it being a very quiet van, it may have cost more than needed but it will work very well. Thanks for watching.
What a huge difference! Definitely going to keep this idea in mind before I start my conversion.
So glad I wAtched this. Other firewalls have cost me a fortune
Greg is a man to follow 🙌🏼
Thank you 😊
Haha thank God someone with some sense - I couldn't believe what i was seeing when I saw other people covering their WHOLE van in this stuff. Couldn't agree more, you only need a few bits here and there!
Hopefully the tide will turn as I do feel sorry for those that follow videos with poor advice. Just because someone else has done it doesn't make it right. Thank you for great feedback.
Greg thankyou so much for all your hard work. You’ve done loads of videos and I’ve found it extremely helpful. I’m going to do my van exactly the same as you’ve shown me in the 7 videos. I was going to dynamat whole panels now I see only small amount does same job and saves money and weight. Brilliant. Subscribed straight away. Cheers.
Hello keith, really pleased that’s helped you. The maximum you would cover is 80% of any flat panel. Even that much is a lot. Hope you enjoy the rest of the channel.
Your videos have been so helpful! Thank you!!! You explain so well and answer all of the questions before I have them!
Bloody brilliant videos.....you answer every question I’m thinking
Glad it is helpful to you 👍🏼😃
Greg Virgoe honestly, one of the best tutorials I’ve ever watched on here. Very well done
Yet another great and informative video Greg - The TH-cam Van Man! 16k - wow :-)
Sadly our aspirations of converting a van are now on hold for the moment as we've recently put in a cash offer against a very old house in our town and this has been accepted. Pending a structural survey next week, this will be our new project with walls, insulation and hopefully not too much sound deadening..going to carry on watching you fella and the very best of luck to you both, R & T x
Oh wow, congratulations, exciting times ahead. That's a much bigger project so I can totally understand you are going to have your hands full and putting your van on hold. Always a pleasure to read your comments and thank you so much for supporting my channel. Best wishes with the new property.
Just the video I was looking for! Thank you Greg, you explained the theory so well.
Meth Kudagama I’m pleased you liked it 👍🏼
Another fine explanation. Thank you!
Glad you liked it 😊
Do you both know that you can also use a torch to shrink the metal and reduce that sound and tighten the metal so its not as easy to create vibration? I took a metal manipulation course and shrinking the metal may help in some areas where its flexing when you push on outer panels. Maybe using that method and maybe use less of this product?
This video was so helpful- like always. Thank you, Greg!
Sunday Stevens you are most welcome. Glad you found it to be useful. 😃
Perfect...added to my growing materials list. Thanks
Use the tapping method to decide how "live" your panels feel and don't cover more than 80% of any panel. It's expensive and heavy and you don't need to use a lot to use it wisely. Glad you found it to be useful.
I'm doing my first conversion and have learned it's just not worth the money to sound proof. I was curious to find out what the material is they use. It's basically self adhesive roof flashing with a foil back. The foil does nothing it's just about density so look at roof flashing for a cheaper alternative.
Roof flashing is nowhere near as good as proper sound dampening like he uses here - I experimented with both...
Hi Peter, I imagine flashing to be a sticky butyl rubber membrane but this anti vibe stuff is very heavy and dense, when I likened it to sheet of lead I was comparing its weight. It's this mass that does most of the vibration dampening. I'm sure you will get some effect by sticking stuff to your panel but maybe not as effective.
Greg, love the learning experience. Wish you you were here and work on my New Promaster🙏🏻
Hopefully the videos will give you enough information to give you confidence to do these tasks. You could take a tablet or laptop into your van and I'll be there guiding you in spirit 😊
He has such a calm voice. Not like those Americans “HI! I’M JENNIFER I HERE IS A TOUR ON MY VAN (lot of noisy music) THIS IS A FRIDGE A BAD AND A WINDOW COOL”
Lol
I rather watch this guy
This blew my mind, thank you so much for this information!
You are welcome, glad you liked it.
Another great video and really enjoying the build as it progresses, thank you
Many thanks Paul, always nice to hear. 😃
Good god, you are a born teacher! Thanks for the fantastic information!
More than welcome Bob, hope it has helped you out. 👍🏼😀
Loving your videos I worked out straight away you are very knowledgeable I’m just trying to work out now what one you started with looks like you done your wiring first
They are all arranged into this one playlist. 😃th-cam.com/play/PLLhAyWhGGbi6JLJBHePgsmR-jSbyC_RgO.html
@@GregVirgoe that’s great thanks 👍
Hi Greg, another clear and concise video, you are getting really good at this:)
Regarding my new Ford Transit it's all curves and style creases. Ford promoted it's new model as being very quiet, like car quiet. Not quite, but pretty close.
Funnily enough like yours, it was the rear doors that let the side down. So to be sure I added sound pads to these and all large panel areas and now all is reassuringly dead.
Hi Rob, they do seem to have done a lot to cut down on those annoying rattles. What's next on your agenda for the transit buddy?
The weather has kept me in, so I'm still working on the control system. Proving a bit of a task now, but it should be worth it.
Can't wait to see what you've come up with, I've gotta get down and dirty and get tanks hung under my van if it ever stops raining.
Greg where did you put your electric 'boxes' in the end? Not sure I saw that on any videos. Assuming we aren't having a permanent garage, I guess there's only behind the drivers seat under some seat benches. I've seen CamperTango use the side panel next to it too (for the EHU)
Hello, we are still planning to have a garage in the rear for storage etc. The controls are located at the left hand rear panel as you open the rear doors. That where all the cables wire back to. All I’ve changed is the initial height of the bed and will now make it removable. Everything else is pretty much as per my original design. Want to keep the front bench seat empty for storage.
This is a great conversions education. Period.
TELAHUN BELACHEW thank you.
Excellent video thanks Greg!
I’m glad you liked it 👍🏼😃
I think you're absolutely right regarding over-doing the noise deadening. I don't blame other You-Tubers for just doing what everyone else does. But it is a sort of virus, isn't it?
Got my van finally, and I'm beginning my build. I will use noise deadening conservatively.
Love your videos. I learn so much that will help me prepare my van for future travels. Thank you.
Hi Ros, thank you very much for your continued support, great reading your comments 😃
Another fine, informative, even entertaining video. Keep them coming Greg!
Love your videos. Really informative. Glad you pointed out that's soundproofing is not really Necessary on all vans.
Top tip ! 100mm self adhesive roof flashing does the same job as the expensive anti vibe or rattle trap, but without the pointless foil back of course. 😁✌💜
A handy tip Peter, thanks. I'm also not sure why the foil backing? Yes, this stuff is expensive so it pays to use wisely.
I tried the roof flashing, but it doesn't have nearly enough weight. The proprietary pads are way better.
Any ideas for alternatives for this Anti Vibe product? I can't find Anti Vibe in the usa. Thanks Greg, good work on the series so far.
Hi Joshua, search for “sound deadening material for vehicles” Do not use black foam products as they are not for vibration control. The sheets you need are very thin heavy self adhesive sheets. Other names are Rattletrap, Dynamat, Dodomat, silent coat, Fat Mat.
It’s a thin, heavy butyl self adhesive mat usually with a foil back and comes in small sheet sizes. Hope that helps
Yep i think I’m gonna try a couple of layers of the heat on roofing flashband just because i have a few rolls of it kicking about.
Its probably worthwhile to point out that panels that are installed in the fit-out could also vibrate causing noise. It might be worthwhile to check during and after the fit-out and apply the same mitigation treatments you mention Greg - both check and repair bonding and adding noise dampening materials - as well as noise absorption in the fit-out panels where possible.
Sound advice Benny 😊
Another great video Greg, thanks for all the info. In a previous van conversion, I used a roll of self-adhesive lead flashing from the likes of Screwfix or Wickes. It's not quite as thick as sound deadening sheets but it's well under half the price and seemed to do a great job. I now have a new van to convert and was trying to decide whether to go down the same route as before or go for the proper stuff. If all it's doing is adding mass to stop the panels from vibrating then I think the cheaper lead flashing might be the option I pick.
I'm planning to do an enclosed cargo trailer conversion and I will definitely need to treat it with something like this, especially if I expect to use a decent sound system in it.
If the sheet panels are very large it may be worth looking at bonding some angles to the inner surface to stiffen the sheets?
Great in depth analysis thank Greg!
Thank you Matt, glad you liked it.
Learnt so much again from another fantastic video. Thank you!!
Excellent information as always, thanks for posting
Really pleased you liked it, many thanks.
One caveat is that if subsequent insulation is foam boards, those foam boards won't actually absorb much sound. You can get a little more sound deadening using fiberglass or rockwool insulation, but that doesn't go well with many van builds.
Cheers Greg, just saved me about £60...thanks man
That's always a bonus, if I can pass on some useful information then it's been worthwhile. Cheers
I agree. Just those small squares are better than the huge strips I see others on youtube do.
It's enough to change the resonant frequency and deaden the panel, you don't need to go mad with it 😃
Greg great information am learning loads from your vids. 👍👍👍
paul jojiana thank you very much. Glad you like them
Hi Greg, another great information packed video. Loving it.
Many thank stephen, appreciate your support.
I am REALLY appreciating your videos. Suppling such great insight and education with a basic/simplified format to reach to a wider audience. It is difficult to find other content providers that back up their actions with scientific or even empiric evidence. You are my MAIN source of inspiration and reference for my first and current project. Hopefully I will deliver similar content and cite your material as such. I have seen so MANY videos of people applying sound deadening mats as an entire skin to their van it is insane. Even with my lmited engineering background I thought this was unecessary and hugely expensive financially and with available load. I would love to know what their initial mass and subsequent mass of their vans to gauge whether they are able to adopt a driver within the DVLA legal MVM for their vehicle. I wouldn't be surprised if the exponentially detiorating UK roads are due to overladen vehicles without appropriate suspension as referenced in a later video of yours?
I do my best to give reason and facts to back up the choices I make. I’m never swayed by distributors or sales people because they are generally not technical and would sell sand to the Arabs 😂 Glad you like the content 👍🏼😃
Another prefect vid well done
Thanks for the continued support John, very much appreciated.
Cheers Greg. Keep up the good work.
Thank you very much 😀
I'm definitely gonna try this!
Great tip!
M N it’s really only necessary on the large flat panels. Don’t bother with the corrugated panels like floor and roof it’s a waste of money. 😃
Wonderful as always, I appreciate the detailed information!
Thank you for your continued support of my channel
another great info packed video Greg. nice one
Thank you very much, really appreciated.
Interesting you've done this video now Greg. Just about to do similar - but the cab.
The back of my van is pretty good, but it's quite noisy in the front whilst driving. Decided that whilst the seat bases are out for other jobs (next week I hope) I'm going to try and improve this.
All the stuff I've chosen is on order, plus will do a before and after with decibel meter for anyone else interested. Could be a complete waste of time :)
Hello, I imagine most of the noise in the cab will be from the road via the front wheel arches and the engine via the bulkhead. This is more noise breakout than vibration and sound attenuation with a dense foam is probably a better treatment to absorb the noise. As I suspect panel vibration is maybe not your main issue here. What materials have you ordered out of interest?
I've ordered some sound deadening foam sheets from Amazon, which I'll fit under the standard floor matting, in the doors, on wheel arches, anywhere else I can get it. It get's good reviews so I'm hopeful it will be quite effective (not expecting amazing).
Planning to be quite thorough with this (def include battery box) and also fit where I can under bonnet (with high temp stuff).
I'll also fit the same in the base on the overcab. Worth a go I think :)
You might have luck with a raptor kit. Spraying on the under sides of the wheel wells.
Thanks. I'll look into that.
So that is why air ducts have fancy looking stamped patterns. Who knew?
Now you do :D I'm full of random bits of information like that lol
Cheers Greg! What would be very interesting is how to isolate engine noise and road noise from the cab. Its so loud!
There are products more suited to sound proofing your engine bay. You need a dense foam pad and in this case cover as much as possible to absorb the sound waves. Look at dodo mat uk website for suitable products. Cheers
It's amazing how many people I see doing classic car restorations where they will completely cover the inside of the car with this stuff hoping to reduce heat and noise... only to be disappointed.
Heat insulation the engine compartment and exhaust and generator if you build a compartment. Heat insulation between cab and living area in a four season van. You can use original partition between cab and box and spray foam it for. Dead winter install. A winter van is nice for winter travel where you can park anywhere. Some areas They close roads so great sub zero travel. Have seen -45 degrees and wind speed . I have used walk in cooler panels for box truck or cargo van insulation.
informative and very much appreciated tips. you sir, are a wealth of knowledge!
Great video, and Great explanation! Thanks for sharing this Greg.
Glad you found it to be interesting Pete.
Excellent helping me no end....thank you so much...
Glad you liked it 👍🏼😁
Always Great info based on knowledge,,, Thanks
Thank you for watching
Friendly & educative. Many thanks.
Thank you
Really great tutorial - thanks for making!