Milling a 60" Long T Slot in round steel bar.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 มี.ค. 2020
- Cutting a long T slot in 1-1/2" round bar, 1018 steel. One piece is 60" long and the other is 33-1/2" long. Definitely some challenges keeping alignment while having to move the work.
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alwayssunnyintheshop@gmail.com - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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Thanks for the lesson. I also enjoyed reading the comments this project generated. Reading all the different ideas shared was a bonus. As always, thanks a lot for putting videos of your projects together. Cheers, Will.
Great vid.. Like your style no drama no BS just getting things done..
Nice Job, You can usually have the keyseat cutter .005 above the bottom of the milled slot so as not to drag. Im sure Your milling machine slots are cut like that.
Nice project Aaron, Thanks for sharing.
Nicely done. Always good to see mill table work vs vise. :-)
Great work. Beautiful mill. Thank you for sharing
@9:08 To prevent walking into the end. Funnily enough, I find, that a bucket or such, placed on the floor directly underneath the end, is a better preventative. We watch where we walk, in a factory environment, more so than looking out for midair stuff. It does work. Oh, and good video.
If you are using coolant when overhanging your bed place a rubber band near the end,then hang a small tub over that.The band act as a drip stop keeping mess to a minimum off the floor.
I was unprepared so I just used a couple of mixing cups and walked them with the movement. That’s a good idea.
Great vlog, thanks for sharing.
At 13.45 put the milling cutter upside down in the collet and bring it down to the slot. Very simple and quick. I always do it that way milling on the Bridgeport.
Love your alignment system to get your correct slot orientation
Thanks! Seemed logical.
Great job. I never cut a T-slot that long, but had the cut a 45• angle on a 1”x4”x72” 1018 bar before.
Nice work. Thanks for sharing.
You almost know what your doing, keep it up man.
Nice job 👍🏻
Nice! A troublesome project to be sure 😊. Always feel like I'm about to destroy something when I put a cutter that deep into something 🤣. To many bad newbie experiences I guess. Terrific work!
👍😀👍
Job well done. Thanks for the view.
That boaring bar looks like the ones we used to bore out the "float" boar in bit subs for the oil field.
I would like to say one thing about those clamps. The high side of the clamp gets most of the pressure from the screw. Keeping them as parallel as possible gives more pressure on the work with less clamping force.
To realign that pole all you need do is put tge endmill back in the chuck upside-down and sit it in the cut it made so u dont see light and its square
Even though it was as you said a very simple two tool job, WELL DONE !
You are a perfectionist.
Well done.
Love the Turn Wright T-Slot cleaner in the last milling shot.
Use it every time the mill runs!
Excellent,.. just a possible "Next time" suggestion would be to use two large lathe dogs ,...one in the middle and one on the end of the bar prior to any cutting ,...adjust and tighten these after you clamp the work piece to the table,,cut to the midpoint and move the end piece around to the cut end and re-clamp,,you now have a continuous alignment and can continue to the tables maximum cutting axis,,re-position table and one lathe dog,, continue to cut to the end of the rod,,keep one lathe dog attached,,your ready to start the T-slot milling with perfect alignment every time!
I used this process for a torsion bar for one of my students back in the day, but I have the original drawing of an adjustable alignment jig ( not the lathe dog ) if anyone is interested?
Great video,, good content,, appreciate your hard work and commitment,,,,,, many thanks
Interesting approach, I like it!
Very easy to watch and listen to and great content. Subbed here!
Very nice video, thanks for sharing. :o)
That is stretching the capabilities of your mill. What an interesting job
Great work
You just made me think again before i fasten my mill down permanently, nice job although i would have probably raised the table to have less stickout on the quill so as to limit deflection, i hate t slotting cutters especially when you have to cut both sides to full width simultaneously, once you start your committed in a job that long.
Yeah the table was raised all the way up on the short one- it’s better for filming to have the quill down a bit but not as good for machining.
Nice job.
Nice job sir
Nice milling machine
I bet Abom79 would love that boring bar!
Abom's good but he's More on the cocky side.
Great job. Did a bunch of log work on small machines in the 70's and 80's. Didn't have much carbide in a small shop. Was there any warpage on these long parts? I like your line up method. You have a nice shop. Super clean as it should be. Great video!
Surprisingly I couldn’t see any warpage. A clean shop is a happy shop!
Great video
this is a part for a machine that can do a 600" t slot into barstock. that machine is used to make parts for the 6000" machine and so forth.
I know you talked a bit about endmill wear. Shallow doc like .05” per pass will wear out the corners of your endmill long before the rest of the tool. Deep doc will utilize more of the flutes spreading the wear. Now do I think you should’ve gone full doc no but maybe .25 to .375 per pass would still be doable. I do come from mainly running cnc machines though but I do have a knee mill.
It probably would have been fine doing that, but with a 4 flute tool I was still concerned with chip evacuation. A 3 flute tool and air blast it probably could have gone .375 without an issue. Thanks for watching and commenting!
AlwaysSunnyintheShop I guess when I ran manual machines I was always worried about that kind of stuff and what the old guys said but moving to cnc showed me a whole new world. I have not had a problem slotting with 4flute in steel. You also had a good mister for great chip evacuation. But what really matters is that you got the job done with the tools you had. Still a very good job.
If I have to run a slot mill , I usually choke way up in the tool , and Raise the table so the Quill is barely out of the head. Has way more rigidity and leaves a better finish.
jkdwayne i thought one was to always mill with the quell up if posable.
First thing I noticed...
I learned to always have the quill as far up as you can and raise the knee for depth of cut.
Just curious was there any Distortion from removing so much material from one side of the bar?
None that I noticed. I’m sure putting it on a CMM would show waviness but it passed the eyeball test.
Very nice work. I enjoyed the process. Around 11:25 you showed a set of Wiha allen wrenches and said you can purchase just the case. I have searched all over and cannot find when you can purchase just the holder. Where did you see just the case?
Go to wihatools dot com and search for item 91255. $7.22
@@AlwaysSunnyintheShop Thanks for the quick response. I now have two on order. Looking forward to more of your videos.
Is machining your passion after work and weekends? What do you do for your day job? Enjoy how you use simple common sense solutions to solve problems you encounter. Are those all end mills in your opening shot? Where did so many come from? I have never seen so many in the same drawer at the same time. Cheers!
It’s just a passion of mine- I work in tool distribution so I’m around CNC shops every day, and love it. The opening is a drawer of drills. I have one of endmills but it’s not so full! Haha
That boring bar is more fun than a man with a hernia is allowed to have. I'd have to utilize the lifting jig I made up for swapping chucks to mount that one. You might see if Brian would want it, or the other one if the guy doesn't think he will ever use it.
The irony is getting a machine that is 3 times bigger than what you originally had in mind (and thinking you will never use it all), only to find yourself wishing you had a bigger/longer one a few years later.
I'm here just to watch "my" Monarch lathe.
Nice job! Did the bar warp at all after cutting relieved internal stress?
Didn’t seem to. Still laid very straight on the welding table.
If it did, you could straighten it Keith Fenner style, if you put it in some sleeves so it could roll in the rollers.
We got a bigger boring bar at work it’s like 4” by like 48” not to sure on the exact dimensions but it takes a CNMG 432 style insert
You do pretty alright work for a know it all
😂😂
Well done. I think I would have set a shop vac to remove chips while cutting. That's just me.
I don’t like vacuuming up wet chips. Probably no good reason, it just seems like there’d be something bad about that 🤷🏻♂️
@@AlwaysSunnyintheShop The only thing bad I have found is cleaning the hose every once and awhile.
I am curious how that bar is useful without a flat surface above the T-slot.
It will have coped plates welded on each end for mounting.
If you want to see big boring bars have a look at Cutting Edge Engineering. He has some videos where he makes and uses them. They need a crane to move.
I was thinking that you could have set up a fixed indexing pin to the right of the cutter for the whole operation since you were sliding to the right.
Entertaining I must say. The T cutter could of been sharper .. but hey if it works slowly it still works!
Adam's so busy taking vacations he has to outsource work now? Yeesh lol, least he's living how he wants
Ha! Less vacationing and more juggling 12 projects at once.
@@AlwaysSunnyintheShop I see! Juggling that many projects must be difficult, or at least time consuming
Wrong Adam? Ive never had a vacation....
@@stuffandthings8767 WRONG ADAM! I was thinking abom79 Adam. Real sorry about that
HiddenWorldForge haha its all good my man. I just wanna vacation, I’ll just have to live vicariously through Abomb
Your like me, I always start with mist coolant how they say to have it then turn it way up. They say to set it where you just barely see the coolant, but sure doesn't seem to work very well that way.
That and I always have to change the regulator on the air compressor- it has to be turned up for my drawbar, but 90 psi is way too much for the cool mist so I have to mess with it again. Always seems to be something to adjust on these things.
@@AlwaysSunnyintheShop Have you thought about putting a cheap regulator near the cool mist system so that it would maintain a constant pressure regardless of the upstream pressure?
A 3' bar of 2 3/4 steel will deflect .008" with a force of 40 lbs at the end. I didn't feel like integrating the mass/length but think 40 lbs is about right as the total weight is 60 lbs.
I'm kind of surprised that the keyway cutter survived, my experience is that a t-slot cutter has the right clearances for this work.
You might also consider a micro-drop lubricator system for long hidden cuts - they're designed to clear chips and eliminate recutting.
Ha thanks for doing the math! I kept misspeaking- the cutter was a stagger tooth t slot cutter, TiN coated HSS.
Keyway cutters can work for cutting T slots. I did it, although just a few small ones in cast iron.
First time seeing your channel, the Adam you are referring to, Adam Booth/Abom79?
No this is a different Adam.
Good work , the only way I could do that is cut a hole in my shop cheers.
HOW LONG IS IT GEOING TO TAKE YOU TO CLEAN UP !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Rather than use vblock why not find center of shaft then use gage pin in the collet.
I locate parts that way a lot- this seemed a bit faster and since I was using a pin smaller than the slot, my collet probably wouldn’t be able to clamp on it. Nothing wrong with that method though imo.
not too long ago i seen a cincinati dial type mill with a 64" travel for sale for $500.
I didn't have the capability to move it or i would have jumped on that offer like a hungry fat guy with donuts.
A brilliant job! The only thing I would say is that you should always, always clean down your table before and during moving a workpiece you only need a couple of chips trapped between the bar and the table tee slot and it will put your work out rotationally on the axis. I watched a late 1940's tutorial on setting up milling machines and they were adamant that this process should always be carried out.
Very good point.
Very cool way to square up the slot thinking outside the box
👍🏻
You could use that boring bar to make a 1-2-3 block. 😆
What?
A 1,2,3 foot block!
That is a Monty Pithon size boring bar,
A Biggus D..kus!
Mine’s bigger! Mine’s bigger!....oh wait, did you say something about a boring bar?
nevermind...
Try to do indexing it help to learn more
Should just clamp you angle plate to the bar before clamping from the table. It's how I do it for long keyways
That’d be a lot easier!
I bet your glad this job is finished ?
I would be, LOL.
The only problem i have with jobs like this is getting paid for time spent.
If you tell the customer the true value of the job.
You need to then listen to Long story of Why does it cost so much ??
if your coolant system is making puddles, even a drop, its too much. What you've achieved by doing this is the equivalent of poor flood coolant, at the expense of wasted air. Does that look like "mist" to you? Try a 0.5mm mist nozzle off ebay for 1 american dollar or less
I prefer not breathing coolant, so yes, I set it to 'spit' at the part and blow enough to clear chips. When you mist it with high pressure air it aerosolizes and you breathe it in. Have fun with that if you want, but this works great for me.
@@AlwaysSunnyintheShopmm yes no one likes that, but that's because you didn't set it properly. Watch how little oil MQL uses in the Unist videos. It puts drop of oil every 15-30s. You are _lubrifying_ not cooling. The cooling comes from reduces friction.
You need a Rose Index = Check it out.
Interesting idea. Not sure it would have saved me any time or effort on this job, but I can see where it would have a place in the toolbox. Thanks!
Check Out bcbloc02 for large boring bar
I have a bigger thru bar, but not a cantilever bar that big. I think a 2"x30 is the biggest cantilever bar I have.
@@bcbloc02 Good Morning Brian Hope you faired well from the storms in your area
@@ypop417 Had some big winds but no damage here. Thanks
@@bcbloc02 Good to hear, glad no roof panels came off or lose