Thanks for showing us how you made that Chisel Broach. Such a genius way to do it! No more welding silly bits of high carbon steel to rods etc. Thanks again!
As a machinist, I have used similar tools for many years. Actually learned about them from my dad. He called them a "Pecker tool", and so have I for as long as I can remember. Keep the vids coming.
I have made similar devices to use on a lathe with a slotting attachment I also made, but the body is the same size as the shaft and I use a grub screw to push out the cutter after each stroke. It makes the keyway cutting repeatable with minimal setup but does require a new tool for each different shaft size and each key size.. I originally saw this in Model Engineer in a photo about about something else and thought that was a good idea. Please keep the videos coming they are all great.
Excellent video. As others have noted, broaching sets are the cat's pajamas but expensive for the home shop where the broaches won't see much use. An important reminder is that the power to the machine should be disconnected when doing stuff like this.
I was doing a 8mm blind keyway in a 25 mm bore on the slotter today. Similar tool but used 6mm square tool bit and side cut 1 mm either side. Used a 16mm round EN8 and milled the slot at 3 degrees. I mig welded the HSS at the end into the slot and ground the front rake cutting angle to 10 degrees. Drilled a 9mm hole for the tool to enter at the keyway end. Worked like a charm but your idea of the locking collar is brill.
Good idea, I need to do this the next time I need and odd size. I have a Keyway broach kit. Not every size of bushing or broach. Great content. Thank you, Ed.
Perfect timing Mr. Winky! Fabricating a drive pulley for a Fox Milling Machine-1912 + or - ?. I've been at with a hack saw. This will help beautify and clean up what I have started. Thanks!
Thank you for sharing your ideas. I will definitely try this method to make shallow splines (8)on the change gears I intend to make for my lathe. With 9 of the original gears missing, I will have plenty of practice. Keep making the videos, as always a pleasure to watch them for many years ! 😊 Again many thanks from Scotland Regards Ritchie
Good design, especially when broaching in a collet in a mill. For broaching a keyway in a lathe just clamp the cutter bit at a slight angle in the tool post and push the broach through the part with the carriage. The round holder won’t be needed.
In all my 60+ years in engineering I have only ever cut a keyway one time only with a dedicated broach and arbor press, and that was when I was an apprentice because that is how we did it back then......but for many years since I've cut keyways by cranking the lathe saddle with a boring bar and 90 deg tool bit.,,,,...,for the occasional keyway the lathe/boring bar set-up is the most practical application and certainly the cheapest as you can grind a square HSS tool bit to suit the size of the keyway be it Imperial or Metric.
I agree and I have done this in the past. For me the mill was easier because the quill on my mill has a better mechanical advantage. I'm sure some lathes are geared differently.
Good video it’s important to show people that there’s many ways to accomplish the same thing and you don’t necessarily need all the big tools to do it!!
I remember cut keyways using this method years ago, but I used an actual slotting tool made for the slotting head attachment on a Bridgeport. The tool I had was made by Brown and Sharpe. I'm sure that at one time, they made their own version of the slotting head too. Just reminiscing.
Some shops won't allow a wire wheel in the door because they're dangerous (put an eye out with a thrown wire). A ScotchBrite wheel does as good or better without the danger. I cut keyways on the lathe with the tool held sideways in a tool holder and the work clamped to a faceplate. It's tedious but it works and it's a lot easier to do that way than cranking my knee mill.
Interesting on the wire wheel. I've had them hit me before but never anything serious. I need to try the scotch bright wheels! Yeah... I knee mill without a quill would be hard to do. I've done this on a lathe and the quill was a little easier for me. I've also done this on a drill press with a mill table.
@@WinkysWorkshop yes, no exaggeration I was cleaning rust off a steel garage door had 2 or 3 pass through a thin T shirt, had to pull them out. Just calculated they are travelling about 150 mph
If you have R8 or 5C sq collets, the tool steel cutters held in their corresponding size collet, can be used for the various diff sizes of keyways.....cheap or used R8 and 5C collets are readily available around $5-$7 ea....they are quick n easy to use in a pinch...the R8 and 5C sq collets also come in metric sizes if needed
Always nice to learn new ways to do things. Last time I had to broach a keyway, I put the high speed steel in my tool post on my lathe. I had my part chucked up and moved the saddle back and forth to cut the key way. Moving the cross slide away from me to deepen the cut. Good idea for another video maybe? Thanks Winky!
@@WinkysWorkshop Just curious, what position did you have your part in the chuck. I had mine where the keyway was at the three o'clock position and didn't notice leverage problems. Thinking back, it was on my 17 inch lathe, don't know if it created more leverage because of it's size.
Nice video on the subject. As a home machinist I did a similar thing some time back and have used the tools several times over. Broaching sets are a big investment and may not be used enough to warrant the cost. (Not to mention metro and imperial required) it's definitely worth taking the time to make an individual tool as described in your video.
Brilliant design...I have really cobbled together some things in the past to do broaching operations, up to the point of even hammering a piece of square HSS through a round hole in aluminum ....
I used to cut mine on a slotted but that was in a machine shop. If you can get a piece of round bar same size as bore put that in and work out where slot wants to be and drill a pilot hole you will find it easier and a little quicker. Just a suggestion.
That is a slick idea. I needed a 5/32 broach and no one had one but the method you show may have been tough for my job. I have two sheaves on a Reeves drive on a Chinese Harbor Freight lathe. The keyways are just a touch off. When off the lathe they fit all the way into each other just fine, but with the sheaves on a shaft with a key, they won't slide all the way together and you lose power when the belt loosens up. I have to have them stacked to do it right and I don't think I could use this method through two of them....Jim
I think it is a darn good idea . It will for sure help me out making one . I just finished rebuilding my milling machine and since i am not making a lot of key ways , your idea will suit me just nice . Thanks for sharing ..... You don't happen to have info on a 9 inch South Bend . I need to know what change gears it should have and what size and pitch the lead screw should have . I am trying to help a friend to get it up and running .
Thanks. Hey, there is a 9" South Bend Lathe facebook group with a lot of people (about 5,000). Good recourse! I have a quick change so don't know about the change gears on the 9"
Hi Mark. Today I was asked to enlarge a bore in a ‘drive dog’ and add a key slot. Umm I thought, I have no broaches, what could I do. Thankfully you have given me a great idea what I can do. Thank you. 👏👏👍😀
@@de-bodgery I was the same until about a year ago when I inherited an arbor press from my former employer. I used to work at a printing plant and when they closed the doors my former boss gave it to me. It's much bigger than I need but very nice to have sometimes!
Hi Mark, i want to try to make your tool: in my milling machine i don't try to make many verticals cuts! But i will try! Usually i make a small hole, out of center, with the OD= width of the spline,after i make the central hole shaft, so i have to cut only the round corners to have the seat of the spline, this work if you start from zero, if you just have the central hole, your method Is great! Thanks for share, Alberto.
I've thought about doing the same although with cast iron and aluminum the keyway cuts easy. The mild steel I used in the video required more time and effort. I would not want to do this all the time but if you only need to cut an occasional keyway it's great.
You always make me think Winky! (Thanks!!!) What are the disadvantages of drilling a hole as a key-way and using round stock as the key where that is a practical alternative (ie. both shaft and pulley are the same material)?
How to broach this subject .....?! Broaching IS an exercise in FORM TOOLING, and typically in the kinetic ROTARY and LINEAR actions.... A linear broach, typically utilised on a fly press WILL ALWAYS outperform a single point tool, just as a rotary broach will always outperform a single point tool eg. Trepanning head. Furthermore a linear broach and rotary broach will also create a more uniform and dimensionally consistent profile. The "box" is of ALWAYS of our own making 🤔😜 Nice video👍
@@ellieprice363 Mark has a round column mill, there is no brake lever like a Bridgeport. On my enco round column mill, low speed on the pulley will still cause the spindle to walk back and forth. Just curious.
In the past I locked the drive pulley by clamping a piece of wood to it but it really isn't necessary. If you have no side relief on the cutter it stays straight after a couple cuts
A great way to make a simple single point chisel broach. The only bit I'm not grasping is why don't you specify an angle for the slope of the slot in the housing?
The slope was to provide clearance in the hole for the rod that holds the HSS but you may be correct that the slop was not needed (or at least less of a slope) but the HSS would need to be much longer to cut deep enough or the locking collar would need a keyway cut in it.
Nice work. Well done. In the beginning You say that chissel(?) broach is economical. Ehhh. I checked prices not long ago. Here (Sweden) the broach cost more than 60 USD without the needed "inserts".... They also cost... Your simple, quickly made and effective tool looks like the obvious way to go.
Yes unless you have a lot of different size long keyways to cut in many parts on a regular basis. Then a commercial broach set would be more economical.
@@WinkysWorkshop When the day comes I need to do that work, Your design is the alternative. I've got a pedestal grinder (standing on the floor) but not grinded any HSS yet....
What you are effectively making is a graver. To avoid diving into the work, you can grind a heel on the underside to give the tool something to ride on. Lots of stuff on the ‘net on shaping gravers.
Hey Winky. What DRO is on your mill? You may recall we spoke at Flywheelers and we determined my mill is nearly identical to yours. I am looking at getting one. Is that magnetic or glass pickups?
My DRO's are as cheap as I could find. The depth DRO has an auto shut off and the battery last about 2 years but the X and Y do not and if I forget and leave them on they only last a couple month. They all work perfectly although I had to replace the X axis after about a year. I suspect coolant made it fail.
It tool maybe 4 or 5 minutes. After making this video I found out that Bridgeport made an attachment to do the same. It was either motorized or ran off the drive.
Wow! You weren’t kidding when you said your broach is labor intensive. I made the broach and after several hours I finished with a key set. It’s not pretty but it’s functional for what I’m using it for. How do you lock the from turning on a bridge port? You made that comment and it’s imparitive that it’s locked. TNX Frank
I guess it depends on what the pulley is made out of. I have done this with aluminum and cast iron and it seems to work ok. I never lock the spindle. One started it seems to self align.
@@WinkysWorkshop I noticed mine was self aligning as well after I got a the slot started. I at least have a new tool now. I cut a 1/4 inch key and I was wondering if it would have been easier to grind the HSS cutter on a slight angle while I was grinding the 15 degree angle? Thanks for the tip. Koeep up the great work. God bless. Frank
@@frankpiazza953 I tried a couple angles. It's definitely a balancing act. Too much angle and it will try to cut deep but it there is no angle it tends to slide and not cut. Just experiment and see what works best.
@@WinkysWorkshop I remember that you said that in the video, but I was referring to an angle perpendicular to the angle you are referring to; in other words if you angle the cutter right or left as you grind the 15 degree angle. Wow thanks for the quick reply’s all in the same days. BTW I’m trying to understand speeds and feeds in the reference manuals, and how SFM is measured and translated into numbers usable at the lathe or mill. Would be nice to watch a video explaining that. Now I’m going to make a few chips. God bless. Frank
@@frankpiazza953 Thanks for the input. I need to do a speed and feed video! It would be a learning experience for me as well. I think I'll make a chart for brass aluminum and mild steel and convert to RPM. (eliminate the daily math!)
Once you make a couple cuts the tool seems to follow the existing groove. The first time I tried this I clamped a bar to the pulley but it's really not needed.
I know this has nothing to do with this video but l have gotten a 3 jaw chuck that the back plate was turned 0.0110 to small. Can l braze it up and return it to the right size
I have a small benchtop metal planer with an attachment for doing internal keyways. I think what you made there might work better than the attachment I have. Mines just a rod but a square hole 90⁰ to the rod in the end for a tiny piece of HSS. I'm going to try your method. Check out the only video on my channel about my planer I restored. Thanks for sharing Winky.
It's hard to say what would work best. That is a VERY COOL planer you have. The gear change for changing the direction is wild. Seems like it would be prone to wear but I guess it must work well. I love the old planers but don't have the space for another machine.
The first time I used this type took I clamped a piece of wood to top pulley but I found there is no need. Once the cut is started it continues straight because the cotter has no side relief.
Don't ask me... I just read the protractor. It's from vertical or horizontal but maybe I looked at the protractor wrong. The graphics I inserted make more sense to me.
Thank you for your chisel broach. I had to make a new dipping die for my bead roller and it has a metric key way, of course but I can at least make the broach for the key way now.
![ILLSLICK - WINTER IS COMING [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dwTMeM1zIhQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for showing us how you made that Chisel Broach. Such a genius way to do it! No more welding silly bits of high carbon steel to rods etc. Thanks again!
Yeah... i've done that too. This is for sure a better method.
As a machinist, I have used similar tools for many years. Actually learned about them from my dad. He called them a "Pecker tool", and so have I for as long as I can remember. Keep the vids coming.
Thanks
Very good tool,Mark.Thank you.
Your welcome
Just a little bit of time and it saves from buying a speciality tool. Good job. I'm gonna make me one. Thanks 👍
You're right, thanks for watching!
I have made similar devices to use on a lathe with a slotting attachment I also made, but the body is the same size as the shaft and I use a grub screw to push out the cutter after each stroke. It makes the keyway cutting repeatable with minimal setup but does require a new tool for each different shaft size and each key size.. I originally saw this in Model Engineer in a photo about about something else and thought that was a good idea. Please keep the videos coming they are all great.
Interesting... and thanks for watching.
That was my thought, that's similar to how rifle barrels were originally cut. Do you have a link to any thing showing a device like that?
Excellent video. As others have noted, broaching sets are the cat's pajamas but expensive for the home shop where the broaches won't see much use.
An important reminder is that the power to the machine should be disconnected when doing stuff like this.
Unplug the mill? Where is your sense of adventure? I'm kidding, maybe a good idea. Thanks for watching.
I enjoy all of your videos I have learned a lot from you I just started machine work sense I retired a few years back
That's awesome - THANKS!
Wow!!!! great presentation and very helpful to boot.....thanks so much, cheers from down in Florida, Paul
You're very welcome! Thanks for watching.
I was doing a 8mm blind keyway in a 25 mm bore on the slotter today. Similar tool but used 6mm square tool bit and side cut 1 mm either side. Used a 16mm round EN8 and milled the slot at 3 degrees. I mig welded the HSS at the end into the slot and ground the front rake cutting angle to 10 degrees. Drilled a 9mm hole for the tool to enter at the keyway end. Worked like a charm but your idea of the locking collar is brill.
Thanks for the comment. Good to know different methods.
Good idea, I need to do this the next time I need and odd size.
I have a Keyway broach kit.
Not every size of bushing or broach.
Great content.
Thank you, Ed.
Glad it was helpful!
This is a really good one Winky, as always, thanks. Move is done, but all the tools are still in pieces.
You're very welcome!
Perfect timing Mr. Winky! Fabricating a drive pulley for a Fox Milling Machine-1912 + or - ?. I've been at with a hack saw. This will help beautify and clean up what I have started. Thanks!
Thats great! I love the old machinery.
You have just taught me something very useful, thank you.
Glad to hear that!
Thank you for sharing your ideas. I will definitely try this method to make shallow splines (8)on the change gears I intend to make for my lathe. With 9 of the original gears missing, I will have plenty of practice. Keep making the videos, as always a pleasure to watch them for many years ! 😊
Again many thanks from Scotland
Regards Ritchie
Wow... nine gears is a lot, your arms will grow :o)
Good design, especially when broaching in a collet in a mill. For broaching a keyway in a lathe just clamp the cutter bit at a slight angle in the tool post and push the broach through the part with the carriage. The round holder won’t be needed.
Thanks! Yeah... I've used a lathe a few times but it seems like the quill provides a lot more leverage.
In all my 60+ years in engineering I have only ever cut a keyway one time only with a dedicated broach and arbor press, and that was when I was an apprentice because that is how we did it back then......but for many years since I've cut keyways by cranking the lathe saddle with a boring bar and 90 deg tool bit.,,,,...,for the occasional keyway the lathe/boring bar set-up is the most practical application and certainly the cheapest as you can grind a square HSS tool bit to suit the size of the keyway be it Imperial or Metric.
I agree and I have done this in the past. For me the mill was easier because the quill on my mill has a better mechanical advantage. I'm sure some lathes are geared differently.
I think that's a good idea , I've got a keyway to cut in a cast-iron pully . I haven't a broaching ,kit so I'll use your idea , thank you
For a "once in a while" key it's the way to go. Thanks for watching.
I'm the only old machinist who still uses a sine block and indicators on a granite inspection surface. Thanks for your video and all the best.
Cool, thanks
Good video it’s important to show people that there’s many ways to accomplish the same thing and you don’t necessarily need all the big tools to do it!!
Thanks and I agree, I'm a hobby machinist and it's unrealistic to spend thousands on tools I'll use 5 or 6 times.
Way to go Winky. Requires a lot of elbow grease but well worth doing if you seldom ever cut keyways.
Thanks Harould. It's really not as hard as you might think especially in cast iron or aluminum.
I remember cut keyways using this method years ago, but I used an actual slotting tool made for the slotting head attachment on a Bridgeport. The tool I had was made by Brown and Sharpe. I'm sure that at one time, they made their own version of the slotting head too. Just reminiscing.
I just looked up that slotting tool for the bridgeport. Very interesting. !!
Some shops won't allow a wire wheel in the door because they're dangerous (put an eye out with a thrown wire). A ScotchBrite wheel does as good or better without the danger.
I cut keyways on the lathe with the tool held sideways in a tool holder and the work clamped to a faceplate. It's tedious but it works and it's a lot easier to do that way than cranking my knee mill.
I've had wheel wire embedded 2mm into flesh using angle grinder cups. Never use anymore. Only need to forget eye protection once. Destroy them
Interesting on the wire wheel. I've had them hit me before but never anything serious. I need to try the scotch bright wheels!
Yeah... I knee mill without a quill would be hard to do. I've done this on a lathe and the quill was a little easier for me. I've also done this on a drill press with a mill table.
I never use wire wheels without putting on my leathers anymore. Otherwise I end up stabbed somewhere. Ferocious little porcupines.
@@WinkysWorkshop yes, no exaggeration I was cleaning rust off a steel garage door had 2 or 3 pass through a thin T shirt, had to pull them out. Just calculated they are travelling about 150 mph
@@Phantom-mk4kp I'm sure it happens.
Thanks again, I had to make a quill lock for my Busy Bee to keep the broach square, so that was another small project.
Wonderful!
If you have R8 or 5C sq collets, the tool steel cutters held in their corresponding size collet, can be used for the various diff sizes of keyways.....cheap or used R8 and 5C collets are readily available around $5-$7 ea....they are quick n easy to use in a pinch...the R8 and 5C sq collets also come in metric sizes if needed
Good suggestion. There are many ways to do this. I have a set of ER but nothing that holds square stock.
Always nice to learn new ways to do things. Last time I had to broach a keyway, I put the high speed steel in my tool post on my lathe. I had my part chucked up and moved the saddle back and forth to cut the key way. Moving the cross slide away from me to deepen the cut. Good idea for another video maybe? Thanks Winky!
I've actually done the same and it works well but I has a had time getting enough leverage.
@@WinkysWorkshop Just curious, what position did you have your part in the chuck. I had mine where the keyway was at the three o'clock position and didn't notice leverage problems. Thinking back, it was on my 17 inch lathe, don't know if it created more leverage because of it's size.
@@WinkysWorkshop I can see where that would be a problem on a small lathe with a small hand wheel.
Home made vertical planer right there, super adaptable brain you have...
Thanks... yep, just like a planer
Nice video on the subject. As a home machinist I did a similar thing some time back and have used the tools several times over. Broaching sets are a big investment and may not be used enough to warrant the cost. (Not to mention metro and imperial required) it's definitely worth taking the time to make an individual tool as described in your video.
Thanks for watching!! Agree.
Brilliant design...I have really cobbled together some things in the past to do broaching operations, up to the point of even hammering a piece of square HSS through a round hole in aluminum ....
Same here actually. Thanks for watching!
Gday Mark, great tool, very well explained, I’d say there’s going to be a few made now, thanks for sharing mate, cheers
I'd say you are correct. And thanks! I hope all is well down under!
I used to cut mine on a slotted but that was in a machine shop. If you can get a piece of round bar same size as bore put that in and work out where slot wants to be and drill a pilot hole you will find it easier and a little quicker. Just a suggestion.
That would work. This method works easier in cast and aluminum but I didn't have any.
That is a slick idea. I needed a 5/32 broach and no one had one but the method you show may have been tough for my job. I have two sheaves on a Reeves drive on a Chinese Harbor Freight lathe. The keyways are just a touch off. When off the lathe they fit all the way into each other just fine, but with the sheaves on a shaft with a key, they won't slide all the way together and you lose power when the belt loosens up. I have to have them stacked to do it right and I don't think I could use this method through two of them....Jim
I think in this case the depth of cut would be an issue.
I think it is a darn good idea . It will for sure help me out making one . I just finished rebuilding my milling machine and since i am not making a lot of key ways , your idea will suit me just nice . Thanks for sharing .....
You don't happen to have info on a 9 inch South Bend . I need to know what change gears it should have and what size and pitch the lead screw should have . I am trying to help a friend to get it up and running .
Thanks. Hey, there is a 9" South Bend Lathe facebook group with a lot of people (about 5,000). Good recourse! I have a quick change so don't know about the change gears on the 9"
Hi Mark. Today I was asked to enlarge a bore in a ‘drive dog’ and add a key slot. Umm I thought, I have no broaches, what could I do. Thankfully you have given me a great idea what I can do. Thank you. 👏👏👍😀
Thanks great!
Big thanks for sharing your knowledge!!!
🙏
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
I finally got around to watching this video. Very cool! I need to make one ASAP!
Thanks. Yes it is way better than buying a broach that gets used every few years.
@@WinkysWorkshop I lack broaches or the equipment needed to use them. I can do this on my drill press!
@@de-bodgery I was the same until about a year ago when I inherited an arbor press from my former employer. I used to work at a printing plant and when they closed the doors my former boss gave it to me. It's much bigger than I need but very nice to have sometimes!
Very neat little tool.
Thanks
Hi Mark, i want to try to make your tool: in my milling machine i don't try to make many verticals cuts! But i will try! Usually i make a small hole, out of center, with the OD= width of the spline,after i make the central hole shaft, so i have to cut only the round corners to have the seat of the spline, this work if you start from zero, if you just have the central hole, your method Is great! Thanks for share, Alberto.
I've thought about doing the same although with cast iron and aluminum the keyway cuts easy. The mild steel I used in the video required more time and effort. I would not want to do this all the time but if you only need to cut an occasional keyway it's great.
Thanks, very useful. I can see making one myself for a future project.
Dave.
Go for it! Thanks for watching.
Great stuff, thank you, cheers from Florida, Paul
Glad you enjoyed it
Thank you. Very nice idea. Might be slow but way cheaper than a real broach.
Very true, your welcome!
Nice work Winky where there is a will, there is a way. Enjoyed the video , stay cool, cheers!
Thanks, you too!
Thats great Mark i think i will try to make one, if one rounded the other end of the cutting bit it would set more solid in its holder i think.
That may be true.
You always make me think Winky! (Thanks!!!)
What are the disadvantages of drilling a hole as a key-way and using round stock as the key where that is a practical alternative (ie. both shaft and pulley are the same material)?
I've used the round rod keyway several times. I suspect the only disadvantage is strength but for lot torque they work well.
Good design thanks for sharing
Thank you! Cheers!
Great video. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks
Hey , I like that ! great idea as some of us don't do allot of keyways .. ENJOYED
Yes, that's is me. Thanks
@@WinkysWorkshop me to , i do not use one much but this makes it easy..
Great info winky, keep'um coming..
Thanks you sir
Very slick tool much better than a file.
For sure a file would be a hard way to go! Thanks for watching.
That's more or less how I have been doing it but on my Lathe, I use my boring bar with the cutter side ways, works fine...
True, there are many ways to do this. I had some problems doing it on the lathe due to leverage. It worked but it took a little more effort.
How to broach this subject .....?!
Broaching IS an exercise in FORM TOOLING, and typically in the kinetic ROTARY and LINEAR actions....
A linear broach, typically utilised on a fly press WILL ALWAYS outperform a single point tool, just as a rotary broach will always outperform a single point tool eg. Trepanning head.
Furthermore a linear broach and rotary broach will also create a more uniform and dimensionally consistent profile.
The "box" is of ALWAYS of our own making 🤔😜
Nice video👍
Thanks, interesting comment
Nice job Winky.. Chisel broach. I like it Don
Thanks Don!
Genius! Thank you!
You're welcome!
Thank you ! Some day this might get me out of a bind
Yes, its a good way for an occasional keyway. Thanks for watching!
Great video as always! How did you lock the spindle on your Mill?
Low speed in low gear is pretty effective but the spindle can also be locked with the brake lever cam.
@@ellieprice363 Mark has a round column mill, there is no brake lever like a Bridgeport. On my enco round column mill, low speed on the pulley will still cause the spindle to walk back and forth. Just curious.
@@mgardnerflipflopmachinist Sounds like you’ll have to figure some way to wedge that low speed pulley to keep it from rocking.
I didn't
In the past I locked the drive pulley by clamping a piece of wood to it but it really isn't necessary. If you have no side relief on the cutter it stays straight after a couple cuts
Awesome! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Great video, thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
A great way to make a simple single point chisel broach. The only bit I'm not grasping is why don't you specify an angle for the slope of the slot in the housing?
The slope was to provide clearance in the hole for the rod that holds the HSS but you may be correct that the slop was not needed (or at least less of a slope) but the HSS would need to be much longer to cut deep enough or the locking collar would need a keyway cut in it.
Nice work. Well done.
In the beginning You say that chissel(?) broach is economical. Ehhh. I checked prices not long ago. Here (Sweden) the broach cost more than 60 USD without the needed "inserts".... They also cost...
Your simple, quickly made and effective tool looks like the obvious way to go.
Yes unless you have a lot of different size long keyways to cut in many parts on a regular basis. Then a commercial broach set would be more economical.
I agree, it just doesn't make sense to buy expensive tooling that will be used once every year or two.
Exactly... my shop is basically a hobby machine shop so buying a broach doesn't seem like the best option.
@@WinkysWorkshop When the day comes I need to do that work, Your design is the alternative. I've got a pedestal grinder (standing on the floor) but not grinded any HSS yet....
Nice job Mark
Thanks 👍
What you are effectively making is a graver. To avoid diving into the work, you can grind a heel on the underside to give the tool something to ride on. Lots of stuff on the ‘net on shaping gravers.
Thanks for the tips! I've never heard the term before. I'm sure there is a more ideal shape.
@@WinkysWorkshop there is a rich field of work in engraving, and a combination of art/science in the shaping of gravers.
@@bradthayer6782 Ahh... I understand now.
How many times would one be able to carve out keyways with non heat treated steels before it gets too round?
Honestly I touch up the HSS after one key way cut in steel but cast iron and aluminum the cutter stays sharp a long time.
Hey Winky. What DRO is on your mill? You may recall we spoke at Flywheelers and we determined my mill is nearly identical to yours. I am looking at getting one. Is that magnetic or glass pickups?
My DRO's are as cheap as I could find. The depth DRO has an auto shut off and the battery last about 2 years but the X and Y do not and if I forget and leave them on they only last a couple month. They all work perfectly although I had to replace the X axis after about a year. I suspect coolant made it fail.
ripper ! thanks for that - Got todays project sorted out :)
Cool!
Thank you will be handy when needed.
Thanks... yes, much cheaper then a broach and bushing (s)
Obrigado amigo! Muito bom!
You're welcome.
All by hand? How long did it take you? Wonder if this would work well on cnc type?
It tool maybe 4 or 5 minutes. After making this video I found out that Bridgeport made an attachment to do the same. It was either motorized or ran off the drive.
Wow! You weren’t kidding when you said your broach is labor intensive. I made the broach and after several hours I finished with a key set. It’s not pretty but it’s functional for what I’m using it for. How do you lock the from turning on a bridge port? You made that comment and it’s imparitive that it’s locked. TNX Frank
I guess it depends on what the pulley is made out of. I have done this with aluminum and cast iron and it seems to work ok. I never lock the spindle. One started it seems to self align.
@@WinkysWorkshop I noticed mine was self aligning as well after I got a the slot started. I at least have a new tool now. I cut a 1/4 inch key and I was wondering if it would have been easier to grind the HSS cutter on a slight angle while I was grinding the 15 degree angle? Thanks for the tip. Koeep up the great work. God bless. Frank
@@frankpiazza953 I tried a couple angles. It's definitely a balancing act. Too much angle and it will try to cut deep but it there is no angle it tends to slide and not cut. Just experiment and see what works best.
@@WinkysWorkshop I remember that you said that in the video, but I was referring to an angle perpendicular to the angle you are referring to; in other words if you angle the cutter right or left as you grind the 15 degree angle. Wow thanks for the quick reply’s all in the same days. BTW I’m trying to understand speeds and feeds in the reference manuals, and how SFM is measured and translated into numbers usable at the lathe or mill. Would be nice to watch a video explaining that. Now I’m going to make a few chips. God bless. Frank
@@frankpiazza953 Thanks for the input. I need to do a speed and feed video! It would be a learning experience for me as well. I think I'll make a chart for brass aluminum and mild steel and convert to RPM. (eliminate the daily math!)
If you use a smaller end I’ll to remove the bulk of the material and clean/square the key up with the broach it save some effort.
Thats true. Cast is easy but on steel this might help a lot.
Nice tip
Thanks!
Great video
Thanks!
I like it! (Followed by a little dance)
Cool!!! Thanks! Ha
THANKS WINKY
Your welcome!
How d'ya keep the spindle from turning?
Once you make a couple cuts the tool seems to follow the existing groove. The first time I tried this I clamped a bar to the pulley but it's really not needed.
I know this has nothing to do with this video but l have gotten a 3 jaw chuck that the back plate was turned 0.0110 to small. Can l braze it up and return it to the right size
Maybe there is a type of locktite that would fill the gap. Maybe people use an undersized plate so that they can adjust center.
Thanks for the video!
You bet!
👍👍😎👍👍
Thanks
buen video amigo
Thanks
salut
ces une bon idée merci
You are welcome!
I have a small benchtop metal planer with an attachment for doing internal keyways. I think what you made there might work better than the attachment I have. Mines just a rod but a square hole 90⁰ to the rod in the end for a tiny piece of HSS. I'm going to try your method. Check out the only video on my channel about my planer I restored. Thanks for sharing Winky.
It's hard to say what would work best. That is a VERY COOL planer you have. The gear change for changing the direction is wild. Seems like it would be prone to wear but I guess it must work well. I love the old planers but don't have the space for another machine.
@@WinkysWorkshop Thanks for checking it out. Take care.
I also thought shaper tool. Something else to try.
@@ronkellis769 I've seen shapers but I'm not very familiar with the way the tools are ground. I'm sure they may be ideal for this process.
How did you keep the spindle from turning?
The first time I used this type took I clamped a piece of wood to top pulley but I found there is no need. Once the cut is started it continues straight because the cotter has no side relief.
Wait, so if you want to grind a 65° angle you'd have to measure 25°, not 20°. So what is it now?
Don't ask me... I just read the protractor. It's from vertical or horizontal but maybe I looked at the protractor wrong. The graphics I inserted make more sense to me.
thanks.
Thank you for watching!
thanks winky
For sure, thanks for watching
Ugh! Broaches! I *hate* those things. They would cut tapered keyways….
I've never had a set but I have used them. Mostly this is way cheaper! Thanks for watching!
You might like to consider renaming your video. Personally I'm not interested in toolmaking, only tool use and technique.
What would be a good name?
@@WinkysWorkshop I would go with, "Making a tool, to cut a keyway without a broach."
@@arkadybron1994 - Yeah... you are right, that would have been better. Thanks
Thank you for your chisel broach. I had to make a new dipping die for my bead roller and it has a metric key way, of course but I can at least make the broach for the key way now.
Yeah... if i had to cut a bunch I'd have sore arms but its a good fall back method.