Hi Stuart, Paul from Quorn, SA here. I was so relieved to find this video that you have taken the time to produce. I recently purchased a second hand lathe the same as yours under the OSAKA branding. It came with a never used 4 jaw chuck and blank backing plate. I drilled the main shaft & through a thick walled pipe. I put a high tensile 8mm bolt & with Still-sons and shifter spanner on a jaw of the chuck I went to start applying pressure and before I knew it started undoing. ( unlike your stubborn bstrd) Thanks mate 👍
@@WallabyTracks Hi Paul, thanks so much for your positive comments, it’s nice to know that it helped someone. What a prick mine was but I’m glad to know yours was a little easier. Cheers, Stuart.
Nice work Stu. Have to admit, had bit of a chuckle when you finally cracked it. All ya bits and pieces fell about, but the good lady wife called out. Yeah, no worries darls, just changing the chuck on the lathe. Oh, alright then. 😀 That’s worthy of The Castle!! 😂😂. All jokes aside, this is an inspirational video. Resto work is blood and guts. It’s easy to forget we normally get the sped up & edited version of a projects progress. What we don’t see is the grief and angst and frustration that is part and parcel of restoration work. Don’t know if you recall, but a while ago I asked you about removing steel bolts from a cast fitting. Long story short, I got em out ( 4 from 6 on my own…had to get pro help on the last 2)..but I reckon I know exactly how you felt when you heard that ‘seal break’! Sure, stuff went arsehole to breakfast, and the missus called out, but !! 👆👆👆job done! woohoo!! Seeing this video keeps me inspired mate, thank you 👍❤️🙂.
Ahhh Ian, you are too kind my friend. Yes I agree it’s easy to edit out the mistakes but I really appreciate those people that show when things go wrong as it makes me realise even the best f*ck it up😂😂. I do indeed remember you asking and I think I suggest heat but I was not confident because of the way alloy and iron tend to bind themselves together so I’m really happy to hear you had a win. It’s a great feeling when it works isn’t it and that makes it all worthwhile. I try not to forget that it’s just a hobby so if it turns to shit I try to just put it down to learning and move on. My biggest problem is myself as I tend to be a perfectionist (according to my psychiatrist 😵💫. Yes I have issues) so I’m easily disheartened when it doesn’t turn out the way I expect it to. Thanks for your funny comments, I really enjoyed them. Cheers Stu. 👍👍👍
Stuart that was exciting!!! I can't believe how difficult that chuck was to remove. Your idea was brilliant. I wonder why those chucks are locking up like that? Sometimes lock-ups like that require a sharp blow from a hard object similar to when you have a Morse taper inserted, if you hit it hard with a soft blow hammer it won't budge but a smart rap with a steel hammer and it pops free. I wonder if an impact wrench would unlock those threads with less effort. You could get a large impact socket to fit inside the spindle and drill it out and pin it then try some impact motion on the pinned in socket. It's videos like these that help us all out and when you win we all win!!!!! Great stuff
Scout you’re so kind my friend. I didn’t think of the socket and impact gun but I did try the sharp blow with a large hammer and a block of wood but still no luck. As it’s tight again now, but not as tight as originally, I’ll give the impact gun a try next time as that would be a lot less hassle. The main issue is stopping the spindle from turning as it’s easy to lever against one of the chuck jaws to turn it but holding the spindle from turning is the hard part. Thanks for watching and contributing some very good ideas, that’s the beauty of You Tube. Cheers buddy, Stuart.
Thanks very much, I’ll have another video out shortly with part two because when I put the chuck back on it jammed again so I came up with a proper fix. Cheers, Stu.
Hi Stuart, quite an interesting solution to a problem that I have not come across. It seems strange that it’s yet again difficult to remove. I’m now subscribing to your channel. 🍀Keith
Hi Mr. Stuart! I know nothing about lathes but enjoyed this video. What a great work around to your problem! I'm glad Scout mentioned it yesterday! I hope to one day get a lathe so this is great info to have learned should I come into a situation like yours weather with a lathe or something similar... Good Stuff Sir! Thanks for sharing!
Hi Big Vic and thanks so much for your kind comments. I’ve heard Scout mention you on his channel and he certainly does a lot to help small channels get a leg up. You wouldn’t regret getting a lathe as I find it so useful and it would be the second item I would purchase after a drill press if I had to start over. Cheers mate, Stuart
I have also had a broken back gear, but also learned through TH-cam to put a piece of timber on the ways to protect it when removing the chuck. Nice job
Thanks heaps, I’ll fix the back gears when I can be bothered to pull the lathe head apart. I didn’t show it, but there was a block of wood under the chuck. I’ll know better to show it next time because the helpful people of TH-cam have pointed it out many times.😂😂 Glad to have you watching and commenting. Cheers mate, Stuart.
Well done Stuart - that sure was a challenge! I'm surprised the heat didn't work.. I've got some thread files the same, both metric & imperial.. they are very handy and can even restore a flared crankshaft end on a small engine after belting it to remove a flywheel!! 😜🙄 Cheers, Chris
Thanks Chris, sometimes we don’t have a choice except to damage something for the greater good😂😂 I’ve looked at buying an imperial file but they seem expensive now. Mine is made in the USA but I don’t remember it being particularly expensive. It’s certainly got me out of the shit a few times. Cheers buddy, Stu.
Wow, Been there done that. Your method was one I did not think of. Good idea. I love the spindle bore id. makes for a very versatile machine. I did a good bit of research on how to make it easy to get it off the next time. Lube, thin shim washers made of steel,copper, teflon ect. My success finally came with a washer made of a thin cardboard gasket material. It compresses and does not effect the run-out. Thanks for the video, hope you can find replacement gears.
Thanks Charles, there’s a part two coming soon as the next time I changed the chuck it jammed again so I made a proper fix. I’ll repair the gears when I can be bothered pulling the head stock apart. Thanks again, Stu.
Hi Stuart. Your method worked well. Maybe a shim washer between the spindle and chuck facing registers will prevent it binding. I use a large right angle bar in the chuck jaws and a heavy steel hammer to break threads like that. Less likely to damage the chuck jaws than with a shifter on just the one. A rattle gun could also help, but there may be too much chuck mass for that. Cheers Rob
Hi Rob and thanks for the tips. I’ll definitely try the shim next time I change the chuck as I hadn’t considered that. You Tube is full of people with good ideas that never occurred to me. Cheers my friend, Stuart. 👍👍👍
@@scroungasworkshop4663 Possible that you might fix it with some 1000 grit wet and dry cloth and polish that taper a bit, and then get the fit to be slightly looser in diameter, so you can actually have not as tight an interference fit. But looks like time to pull that gear out, braze up the lot, and recut all the broken teeth in it.
@@SeanBZA Thanks Sean, having looked a bit more closely I think it’s a shoulder that the chuck pulls up against so I’m going to make a washer out of some PTFE and see if that fixes it. Thankfully there looks to be only one broken tooth but it still means pulling the head apart to get it out for brazing. I have my eye on a bigger lathe at the moment and if that comes through then I will move this one on as is. Thanks for you suggestions and thanks for subscribing. Cheers Stuart.
Hi again Austeration, to be honest I thought I would cop some criticism but it was the only thing I could think of however the reaction has been very positive just like your comments so thank heaps. My poor wife has had to cart me off to hospital in the past😂😂😂.
@@scroungasworkshop4663 I'm sure you would have tried all sorts of ideas to get it apart in the past. So I don't think it would have mattered what you did to get it free as long as it worked. Sounds like the wife is on high alert then when it comes to hearing strange noises coming from the shed. Nothing worse than a hospital visit. How's the new chuck working out ?
@@Austeration Exactly, I tried every trick in the book to get that bloody thing off😂 It’s good to be able to use the 4 jaw because in the past I’ve needed it but couldn’t use it. I’m a happy man now. 👍👍👍
You are so right there Shed Man, I was delighted when that chuck popped. I wasn’t sure what let go at first and I was pleased to find it was the chuck. Thanks buddy, Stu👍👍
Hey Tez, someone else just asked about a shop tour and I will do one just as soon as I can get it cleaned up enough so I’m not embarrassed. My wife actually came in a vacuumed the floor today and reminded me again that it needs sorting. Stay safe on the road my friend. Cheers Stuart 👍👍
Liked!! The sound effects afterwards were a hoot and loved the comment from the Mrs. I wonder if the last person mixed up their loctite with never seize. Thanks for sharing. Always like your vids mate. Keep it up👍👍
Thanks Elliott, yes my wife is a bit of a worrier but then again noises like that in the past have entailed a trip to the hospital 😂😂😂. Cheers Stuart 👍👍👍
I have a '91 the Canadian version of that lathe .The apron is opposite sided. When I changed the belt, I changed the bearings too. The seals and bearing are just off the shelf industrial. Nothing fancy. I used Timken bearings. The nose on mine is an odd ball, a German DIN standard but with a 8TPI thread . I would mount the faceplate and chase the backing plate threads
Hi Ray and thanks for subscribing. I’m thinking of upgrading to a geared head lathe as mine needs other repairs too. The back gears need to have a tooth brazed back on and the pin in the drive gear that is pulled in or out when engaging the back gear is very wobbly as well. I have to use a pair of pliers to move it in or out. I don’t know if it’s meant to be loose and if it’s meant to have some kind of knob on it. Any help you can give would be appreciated. Cheers Stuart.
@@scroungasworkshop4663 Yeah, every time I engage or disengage the backgear pin, I think how nice a gearhead would be. chuckle. My chuck plate was much looser than yours . Just swat with a soft deadblow hammer on a crescent wrench. It was also a used lathe, I'm at least the third owner. I'm an old retired millwright (fitter) so taking apart the headstock wasn't that much of a problem once I found the shaft under the bondo filler. I found my headstock casting to be a bit on the thin side. My nose is 60mm, I bought some backing plates, but they are 2 1/4 inches. I blundered onto some German spec for lathe threaded noses. I have no idea where, but the specs might be some help for your shoulders.
@@rays2877 Thanks Ray, I’m retired as well and my lathe was second hand also. I wanted to be a fitter when I left school and applied for several apprenticeships but life took me in another direction. At least now I can do machining just for my own pleasure and I learn so much from TH-cam. I’ll have a video coming up of my Christmas haul where someone just gave all this stuff away including some high quality machinist measuring tools. For me it was Christmas for a 5 year old. 😂
@@scroungasworkshop4663 I'm looking forward to seeing your haul. U.K. Lathes lists our lathes as Taiwanese generic. A nice write up. The bed is a copy of a Colchester, they have a Norton gearbox. The bed is a little wider than a lot of the current 12" import lathes. Not bad lathes in the 1000 pound class.They are pretty common. BusyBee (Grizzly in Canada) imported my DF 1224g . Unlike your 37" mine is a 24" bed. I never found out who DF is.BTW Bearings on machinery have their clearances reduced by about 2/3. We call that preload. These are simple (crude) headstocks and use easy to adjust Timken bearings. Those mangled nuts on the back side are what are used to adjust the clearance.The second one is a lock. They should be standard KM-xx, the xx is the same number as your bearing/shaft size. When I took mine apart, I checked my clearance with my newly purchased Mitutoyo 1/10 of a thou dial indicator . I used a 6foot 2x4 to pry the spindle up. I got 2 tenths, which is what I set the new bearings to . Those 14x40 dream lathes in the 2000 pound class use very expensive, well over $1000 precision bearings. These are leaky lathes anyway, but I would think your front seal has been toasted .All is not well in my shop, I installed a VFD on my lathe and I am going through aspirins to deal with the headache of programing. Ray
Wow! Congrats on getting the chuck off! I hope you did not damage the bed in your excitement to screw off the chuck when if fell onto the bed. The thread file was cool! I am not sure I have ever seen one before. I was worried about getting the three jaw chuck off my little vintage lathe because I was sure it had been on for many years, but I used and pneumatic impact wrench on something the jaw was gripped on and it zipped right off! I guess you just never know how hard its gong to be.
Hi Time Flys, the bed was ok as I had half a dozen old leather gloves covering it. I must be such a dumb ass as you the second person to suggest an impact wrench in the first few comments but it never even crossed my mind. I’ve rescued many original bolts with the thread file in the past so it’s proved it’s value to me. I’ll have to get an imperial one eventually. Cheers my friend, Stu👍👍👍
Hi Mark, I keep considering a shop tour but I really need to have a clean out first. You can only move the crap out of the camera shot for so long😂 I can repair the gear by brazing the teeth back on but it means pulling a lot of the head stock to get it out so it will happen but I’m not sure when. Luckily the broken tooth and a half are easy to reach as they just fell down under the gear. Cheers and thanks for commenting, Stu.
Great job Stuart! Good thinking on the removal technique. Was wondering if you were going to anti seize that one you were installing then I saw you pull out that can. That's a life time supply! Great video, loved it! Thanks!👍🏻
Hey Stuart! Long time no see! What's new and exciting with you, your shop, your projects? Is everything OK? You know we start to worry when we don't see people after a while.
Seriously, people are just so kind in our community. I’m doing pretty good thanks and of course I’ve always got things on the go. I’m going to have a video out in the next day or two and my new year’s resolution is to pull my finger out and get stuff up on TH-cam. I’ve probably got 8 videos on the go but I’m hopeless at getting the editing done. I’d rather watch other peoples videos instead. How about you? Are you travelling ok? You guys have been getting absolutely belted with the winter storms while we enjoy a very nice summer. Like you, I picked up a heap of tools for free as well so that will be another video and I’ll have a Xmas tool haul as well. Take care my friend and thanks so much for asking after me. Cheers Stu 🇦🇺
@@scroungasworkshop4663 where I am in Ohio, we just had the one super cold, super windy, snow storm. I did not go out for three days! It was nice! Though if we would have lost power, it would have been rough, but we did not. So all was well. Glad to hear that you are doing well and keeping busy. I am looking forward to your next video! Cheers!
I had the same problem on my lathe. He he. Someone not sure if it was me broke the back gear as well. Luckily it is fixed and fixable. Things always seems to fall around me. He he
What a great method that could be useful in other circumstances. When you installed the 4 jaw I thought it might get stuck as it looks like you do not positively register the chuck against the shoulder of the spindle (i.e. give it a good firm spin to register it). As I understand it, this means that the machine is power tightening the chuck, so it's effectively an X HP torque wrench. I'm certainly no expert, but its something that I picked up from TH-cam and it seems to be the case in practice.
Hi Dances, you are spot on there my friend, the chuck doesn’t register and is definitely being tightened all the time but a subscriber just suggested putting a shim between the chuck and the shoulder to stop the torque wrench effect. Some people are so smart. Cheers and thanks, Stuart 👍👍
I have a Taiwanese lathe the same size and made the same year. To avoid getting the chuck stuck on again make a paper ring to go over the spindle. You do have to be careful about running the lathe in reverse as there is now the chance of breaking the chuck loose under a heavy load. Most of the time I run a 4 inch chuck with a 5C collet shank so running in reverse isn't a concern. I switch back and forth between the chuck and collets so it is handy. Locking the spindle with the back gears and bull gear pin is inviting disaster. These lathes have helical cut back gears and repairing them is almost impossible in the home shop. Replacement is about the only option. Cheers from NC/USA
Hi Aceroadholder, thanks so much for your advice. Yes, as you saw I did break the back gear but I’m pretty sure I can repair it as my back gear is straight cut and I have the broken teeth. I like your idea of a paper shim and will be doing that for sure. Running in reverse shouldn’t be a problem as I mainly only use reverse when I’m sanding or using a file just to keep it from being pushed into my hand if it gets caught. I appreciate you taking the time to try and help me out. Cheers mate and Hi to everyone in North Carolina. 👍👍👍
@@scroungasworkshop4663 Stuart, I rewatched the video and I do believe the gears are helical cut like my lathe. My lathe was built by Darsin and like a lot of the lathes made in Taiwan they are assembled from stock purchased parts. I'd bet the back gear in my lathe would be a bolt-in for your lathe. That's good news because you may be able to find used parts to fit.
I just looked and Grizzly Industrial has the back gear for $112USD for their lathe, G9249. It is confusing as their drawing shows the gear as 24/58t and the product listing says 21/58t. You'd have to count the tooth number on your broken gear and check with Grizzly tech support to see exactly what they have.
@@aceroadholder2185 Thanks for checking but I’m in Australia and Grizzly isn’t sold here. Hare & Forbes, the company that imported the lathe still sell parts but I will check to see if the back gear is still available. About 2 years ago the electric motor let the smoke out in a big way, it didn’t burst into flames but the smoke drove me outside. Anyway after chasing around on the internet for a while I couldn’t find a replacement so I rang Hare & Forbes and they said they didn’t have that motor anymore but they had a bolt in replacement the only difference being my old motor was 1hp and the new motor was 2hp. Ohh dear, what a shame please sent it to me😂😂😂. So that worked out well and they also explained that the pulley shaft is longer (sticks out the front of the motor further and the mounting foot was an unusual design) to most other motors available. I though that having spare parts for a 30 year old Taiwanese lathe was pretty good service. Cheers buddy, Stu.
@@aceroadholder2185 Sorry, I saw your other message first. You are correct, my gears are helical cut and these lathes were sold around the world with just different names and paint so i wouldn’t be surprised if parts off yours fitted mine😂😂😂 Cheers Stu👍👍
Fair comment, I should have shown more detail of how I had it set up as I’ve had that comment a few times. The wrench was pushing on the side of the bed, not on the ways and I had a pair of leather gloves sitting under the chuck when it came off so no damage to the ways. I’ll have a follow up video coming and I’ll show the ways undamaged. Thanks, Stuart.
Man, what a project, hope every thing that fell is OK, One Q, did you try to disassemble the chuck an heat it from the inside? Glad you got it off after 20 years, and liked the no worries mate Stu 👍👍😂😂
Hi Douglas, the chuck is held together with bolts on the back so I couldn’t get to them even if I had thought of it😂. Thanks for the suggestion though. Cheers mate, Stu.
Hi Michael, yes it wasn’t easy but definitely worth it. Just a note, when I screwed the chuck back on it became almost as tight again so I made a shim out of a plastic ice cream container lid to stop it binding. That worked until the chuck came flying off, hit me in the stomach and then went for my toes. Luckily I moved my foot in time. To fix that I drilled a hole through the rear collar of the chuck and into the threaded shaft that the chuck screws into. I tapped the hole in the chuck collar and fitted a set screw. That’s been working very well. Cheers, Stuart. I don’t suppose you have the user manual do you?
Thanks for the advice ! And no unfortunately I don’t … I just recently bought the lathe from a auction … I was also looking for a manual because It was missing the motor and mounting points but I managed to get it going
Don't want to tell you how to suck eggs, but next time you do that, flip the shifter over so that all the torque is onto the fixed jaw and not the adjustable jaw, glad to see it all worked for you. 👍
Didn't work for me I ended up breaking things nit a big deal really but what I don't understand is why the heck these manufacturers didn't think of making locking transmissions for this reason.
Make yourself a brown paper washer to sit between the back face of the chuck faceplate boss and the spindle boss. Soak just the washer in grease overnight wipe off the excess ... Good to go.
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi Stuart, Paul from Quorn, SA here. I was so relieved to find this video that you have taken the time to produce. I recently purchased a second hand lathe the same as yours under the OSAKA branding. It came with a never used 4 jaw chuck and blank backing plate. I drilled the main shaft & through a thick walled pipe. I put a high tensile 8mm bolt & with Still-sons and shifter spanner on a jaw of the chuck I went to start applying pressure and before I knew it started undoing. ( unlike your stubborn bstrd) Thanks mate 👍
@@WallabyTracks Hi Paul, thanks so much for your positive comments, it’s nice to know that it helped someone. What a prick mine was but I’m glad to know yours was a little easier. Cheers, Stuart.
Nice work Stu. Have to admit, had bit of a chuckle when you finally cracked it. All ya bits and pieces fell about, but the good lady wife called out. Yeah, no worries darls, just changing the chuck on the lathe. Oh, alright then. 😀
That’s worthy of The Castle!! 😂😂.
All jokes aside, this is an inspirational video. Resto work is blood and guts. It’s easy to forget we normally get the sped up & edited version of a projects progress. What we don’t see is the grief and angst and frustration that is part and parcel of restoration work.
Don’t know if you recall, but a while ago I asked you about removing steel bolts from a cast fitting. Long story short, I got em out ( 4 from 6 on my own…had to get pro help on the last 2)..but I reckon I know exactly how you felt when you heard that ‘seal break’! Sure, stuff went arsehole to breakfast, and the missus called out, but !! 👆👆👆job done! woohoo!!
Seeing this video keeps me inspired mate, thank you 👍❤️🙂.
Ahhh Ian, you are too kind my friend. Yes I agree it’s easy to edit out the mistakes but I really appreciate those people that show when things go wrong as it makes me realise even the best f*ck it up😂😂. I do indeed remember you asking and I think I suggest heat but I was not confident because of the way alloy and iron tend to bind themselves together so I’m really happy to hear you had a win. It’s a great feeling when it works isn’t it and that makes it all worthwhile. I try not to forget that it’s just a hobby so if it turns to shit I try to just put it down to learning and move on. My biggest problem is myself as I tend to be a perfectionist (according to my psychiatrist 😵💫. Yes I have issues) so I’m easily disheartened when it doesn’t turn out the way I expect it to. Thanks for your funny comments, I really enjoyed them. Cheers Stu. 👍👍👍
Stuart that was exciting!!! I can't believe how difficult that chuck was to remove. Your idea was brilliant. I wonder why those chucks are locking up like that? Sometimes lock-ups like that require a sharp blow from a hard object similar to when you have a Morse taper inserted, if you hit it hard with a soft blow hammer it won't budge but a smart rap with a steel hammer and it pops free. I wonder if an impact wrench would unlock those threads with less effort. You could get a large impact socket to fit inside the spindle and drill it out and pin it then try some impact motion on the pinned in socket. It's videos like these that help us all out and when you win we all win!!!!! Great stuff
Scout you’re so kind my friend. I didn’t think of the socket and impact gun but I did try the sharp blow with a large hammer and a block of wood but still no luck. As it’s tight again now, but not as tight as originally, I’ll give the impact gun a try next time as that would be a lot less hassle. The main issue is stopping the spindle from turning as it’s easy to lever against one of the chuck jaws to turn it but holding the spindle from turning is the hard part. Thanks for watching and contributing some very good ideas, that’s the beauty of You Tube. Cheers buddy, Stuart.
This is gold! Saved me a ton of time and likely some gear damage. Brilliant, and thanks for sharing!
Thanks very much, I’ll have another video out shortly with part two because when I put the chuck back on it jammed again so I came up with a proper fix. Cheers, Stu.
Man vs Machine - Winner Stuart 🏆- Even the boss sounded proud of u 😉💪
😂😂😂Worried would be more accurate. Cheers Stuart 👍
Hi Stuart, quite an interesting solution to a problem that I have not come across. It seems strange that it’s yet again difficult to remove.
I’m now subscribing to your channel. 🍀Keith
@@keithatklint5380 Thank mate, stay well. Stu.
Hi Mr. Stuart! I know nothing about lathes but enjoyed this video. What a great work around to your problem! I'm glad Scout mentioned it yesterday! I hope to one day get a lathe so this is great info to have learned should I come into a situation like yours weather with a lathe or something similar... Good Stuff Sir! Thanks for sharing!
Hi Big Vic and thanks so much for your kind comments. I’ve heard Scout mention you on his channel and he certainly does a lot to help small channels get a leg up. You wouldn’t regret getting a lathe as I find it so useful and it would be the second item I would purchase after a drill press if I had to start over. Cheers mate, Stuart
@@scroungasworkshop4663 yes sir! He's the best!
I have also had a broken back gear, but also learned through TH-cam to put a piece of timber on the ways to protect it when removing the chuck.
Nice job
Thanks heaps, I’ll fix the back gears when I can be bothered to pull the lathe head apart. I didn’t show it, but there was a block of wood under the chuck. I’ll know better to show it next time because the helpful people of TH-cam have pointed it out many times.😂😂
Glad to have you watching and commenting. Cheers mate, Stuart.
Well done Stuart - that sure was a challenge! I'm surprised the heat didn't work..
I've got some thread files the same, both metric & imperial.. they are very handy and can even restore a flared crankshaft end on a small engine after belting it to remove a flywheel!! 😜🙄 Cheers, Chris
Thanks Chris, sometimes we don’t have a choice except to damage something for the greater good😂😂 I’ve looked at buying an imperial file but they seem expensive now. Mine is made in the USA but I don’t remember it being particularly expensive. It’s certainly got me out of the shit a few times. Cheers buddy, Stu.
Wow, Been there done that. Your method was one I did not think of. Good idea. I love the spindle bore id. makes for a very versatile machine. I did a good bit of research on how to make it easy to get it off the next time. Lube, thin shim washers made of steel,copper, teflon ect. My success finally came with a washer made of a thin cardboard gasket material. It compresses and does not effect the run-out. Thanks for the video, hope you can find replacement gears.
Thanks Charles, there’s a part two coming soon as the next time I changed the chuck it jammed again so I made a proper fix.
I’ll repair the gears when I can be bothered pulling the head stock apart.
Thanks again, Stu.
Ahh that feeling when it finally let's go! I could feel it from my screen haha
It sure was😂😂😂
Hi Stuart. Your method worked well. Maybe a shim washer between the spindle and chuck facing registers will prevent it binding. I use a large right angle bar in the chuck jaws and a heavy steel hammer to break threads like that. Less likely to damage the chuck jaws than with a shifter on just the one. A rattle gun could also help, but there may be too much chuck mass for that. Cheers Rob
Hi Rob and thanks for the tips. I’ll definitely try the shim next time I change the chuck as I hadn’t considered that. You Tube is full of people with good ideas that never occurred to me. Cheers my friend, Stuart. 👍👍👍
@@scroungasworkshop4663 Possible that you might fix it with some 1000 grit wet and dry cloth and polish that taper a bit, and then get the fit to be slightly looser in diameter, so you can actually have not as tight an interference fit.
But looks like time to pull that gear out, braze up the lot, and recut all the broken teeth in it.
@@SeanBZA Thanks Sean, having looked a bit more closely I think it’s a shoulder that the chuck pulls up against so I’m going to make a washer out of some PTFE and see if that fixes it. Thankfully there looks to be only one broken tooth but it still means pulling the head apart to get it out for brazing. I have my eye on a bigger lathe at the moment and if that comes through then I will move this one on as is. Thanks for you suggestions and thanks for subscribing. Cheers Stuart.
I'm glad you finally got it apart! My favorite part was the Mrs checking up on you!
Thanks Magdad, I’m glad too😂 Lea tends to check up on me cause I’ve made a couple of trips to the hospital in the past🤕🤕 Cheers my friend👍
That was humble of that woman to check up on you . Good on her and you ☺️
Thank you, that was my wife and loud crashes like that have resulted in a trip to hospital in the past.😂😂 Cheers Stuart.
What a great idea 👍 I bet your happy now you finally managed to get it off. I loved how the wife came to make sure your all ok.
Hi again Austeration, to be honest I thought I would cop some criticism but it was the only thing I could think of however the reaction has been very positive just like your comments so thank heaps. My poor wife has had to cart me off to hospital in the past😂😂😂.
@@scroungasworkshop4663 I'm sure you would have tried all sorts of ideas to get it apart in the past. So I don't think it would have mattered what you did to get it free as long as it worked. Sounds like the wife is on high alert then when it comes to hearing strange noises coming from the shed. Nothing worse than a hospital visit.
How's the new chuck working out ?
@@Austeration Exactly, I tried every trick in the book to get that bloody thing off😂 It’s good to be able to use the 4 jaw because in the past I’ve needed it but couldn’t use it. I’m a happy man now. 👍👍👍
Congratulations getting that off mate. Nothing like it when a good plan comes together.
You are so right there Shed Man, I was delighted when that chuck popped. I wasn’t sure what let go at first and I was pleased to find it was the chuck. Thanks buddy, Stu👍👍
Great video and a very good fix thanks for sharing your time and skill 🍺🍺👍👍🇬🇧
Thanks so much Brian 👍👍👍👍
I would love to see your work shop. you have some very cool stuff there. Keep the videos coming mate.
Hey Tez, someone else just asked about a shop tour and I will do one just as soon as I can get it cleaned up enough so I’m not embarrassed. My wife actually came in a vacuumed the floor today and reminded me again that it needs sorting. Stay safe on the road my friend. Cheers Stuart 👍👍
Liked!! The sound effects afterwards were a hoot and loved the comment from the Mrs. I wonder if the last person mixed up their loctite with never seize. Thanks for sharing. Always like your vids mate. Keep it up👍👍
Thanks Elliott, yes my wife is a bit of a worrier but then again noises like that in the past have entailed a trip to the hospital 😂😂😂.
Cheers Stuart 👍👍👍
This is EXACTLY my problem with my lathe. Thanks for your video. I am going to try the same thing. Great stuff.
Thanks and good luck 🤞
See the 3 videos I just posted from rural Ireland.
I have a '91 the Canadian version of that lathe .The apron is opposite sided. When I changed the belt, I changed the bearings too. The seals and bearing are just off the shelf industrial. Nothing fancy. I used Timken bearings. The nose on mine is an odd ball, a German DIN standard but with a 8TPI thread . I would mount the faceplate and chase the backing plate threads
Hi Ray and thanks for subscribing. I’m thinking of upgrading to a geared head lathe as mine needs other repairs too. The back gears need to have a tooth brazed back on and the pin in the drive gear that is pulled in or out when engaging the back gear is very wobbly as well. I have to use a pair of pliers to move it in or out. I don’t know if it’s meant to be loose and if it’s meant to have some kind of knob on it. Any help you can give would be appreciated. Cheers Stuart.
@@scroungasworkshop4663 Yeah, every time I engage or disengage the backgear pin, I think how nice a gearhead would be. chuckle. My chuck plate was much looser than yours . Just swat with a soft deadblow hammer on a crescent wrench. It was also a used lathe, I'm at least the third owner. I'm an old retired millwright (fitter) so taking apart the headstock wasn't that much of a problem once I found the shaft under the bondo filler. I found my headstock casting to be a bit on the thin side. My nose is 60mm, I bought some backing plates, but they are 2 1/4 inches. I blundered onto some German spec for lathe threaded noses. I have no idea where, but the specs might be some help for your shoulders.
@@rays2877 Thanks Ray, I’m retired as well and my lathe was second hand also. I wanted to be a fitter when I left school and applied for several apprenticeships but life took me in another direction. At least now I can do machining just for my own pleasure and I learn so much from TH-cam. I’ll have a video coming up of my Christmas haul where someone just gave all this stuff away including some high quality machinist measuring tools. For me it was Christmas for a 5 year old. 😂
@@scroungasworkshop4663 I'm looking forward to seeing your haul. U.K. Lathes lists our lathes as Taiwanese generic. A nice write up. The bed is a copy of a Colchester, they have a Norton gearbox. The bed is a little wider than a lot of the current 12" import lathes. Not bad lathes in the 1000 pound class.They are pretty common. BusyBee (Grizzly in Canada) imported my DF 1224g . Unlike your 37" mine is a 24" bed. I never found out who DF is.BTW
Bearings on machinery have their clearances reduced by about 2/3. We call that preload. These are simple (crude) headstocks and use easy to adjust Timken bearings. Those mangled nuts on the back side are what are used to adjust the clearance.The second one is a lock. They should be standard KM-xx, the xx is the same number as your bearing/shaft size. When I took mine apart, I checked my clearance with my newly purchased Mitutoyo 1/10 of a thou dial indicator . I used a 6foot 2x4 to pry the spindle up. I got 2 tenths, which is what I set the new bearings to . Those 14x40 dream lathes in the 2000 pound class use very expensive, well over $1000 precision bearings. These are leaky lathes anyway, but I would think your front seal has been toasted .All is not well in my shop, I installed a VFD on my lathe and I am going through aspirins to deal with the headache of programing. Ray
Nice channel. Just came across it. Great
very good idea 👍👍👍👍👍
Wow! Congrats on getting the chuck off! I hope you did not damage the bed in your excitement to screw off the chuck when if fell onto the bed. The thread file was cool! I am not sure I have ever seen one before. I was worried about getting the three jaw chuck off my little vintage lathe because I was sure it had been on for many years, but I used and pneumatic impact wrench on something the jaw was gripped on and it zipped right off! I guess you just never know how hard its gong to be.
Hi Time Flys, the bed was ok as I had half a dozen old leather gloves covering it. I must be such a dumb ass as you the second person to suggest an impact wrench in the first few comments but it never even crossed my mind. I’ve rescued many original bolts with the thread file in the past so it’s proved it’s value to me. I’ll have to get an imperial one eventually. Cheers my friend, Stu👍👍👍
Great vid again Stuart how are you going to fix the broken gears can you get replacement. Maybe a shop tour may come soon cheers Mark
Hi Mark, I keep considering a shop tour but I really need to have a clean out first. You can only move the crap out of the camera shot for so long😂 I can repair the gear by brazing the teeth back on but it means pulling a lot of the head stock to get it out so it will happen but I’m not sure when. Luckily the broken tooth and a half are easy to reach as they just fell down under the gear. Cheers and thanks for commenting, Stu.
Wow, glad I don't have to deal with screw on chucks.
that was amazing. Way to go.
Thanks Micheal 👍👍
Well done.👍
Thanks👍
Great job Stuart! Good thinking on the removal technique. Was wondering if you were going to anti seize that one you were installing then I saw you pull out that can. That's a life time supply! Great video, loved it! Thanks!👍🏻
Thanks Chopper, yes I don’t need anti seize very often so that can will see me out😂😂😂. Cheers Stu.
hello Stewart....cheers from the USA...Paul
Thanks Paul and g-day from Australia.
Good work.
Thanks very much 👍👍👍
Haha
i’m trying too do the same but opposite
i have trouble using the 4chuck-i want too put the 3 on there
Hey Mohamad, I feel your pain. Good luck my friend. 👍👍👍
Hey Stuart! Long time no see! What's new and exciting with you, your shop, your projects? Is everything OK? You know we start to worry when we don't see people after a while.
Seriously, people are just so kind in our community. I’m doing pretty good thanks and of course I’ve always got things on the go. I’m going to have a video out in the next day or two and my new year’s resolution is to pull my finger out and get stuff up on TH-cam. I’ve probably got 8 videos on the go but I’m hopeless at getting the editing done. I’d rather watch other peoples videos instead. How about you? Are you travelling ok? You guys have been getting absolutely belted with the winter storms while we enjoy a very nice summer. Like you, I picked up a heap of tools for free as well so that will be another video and I’ll have a Xmas tool haul as well. Take care my friend and thanks so much for asking after me. Cheers Stu 🇦🇺
@@scroungasworkshop4663 where I am in Ohio, we just had the one super cold, super windy, snow storm. I did not go out for three days! It was nice! Though if we would have lost power, it would have been rough, but we did not. So all was well. Glad to hear that you are doing well and keeping busy. I am looking forward to your next video! Cheers!
@@timeflysintheshop I’m just glad you’re ok and warm. 👍👍👍
I had the same problem on my lathe. He he. Someone not sure if it was me broke the back gear as well. Luckily it is fixed and fixable. Things always seems to fall around me. He he
Yes, I’ll get around to fixing the back gear but of course it means pulling the head stock to bits. Thanks for watching.
Well done bloke
Thanks Ian.👍👍
What a great method that could be useful in other circumstances. When you installed the 4 jaw I thought it might get stuck as it looks like you do not positively register the chuck against the shoulder of the spindle (i.e. give it a good firm spin to register it). As I understand it, this means that the machine is power tightening the chuck, so it's effectively an X HP torque wrench. I'm certainly no expert, but its something that I picked up from TH-cam and it seems to be the case in practice.
Hi Dances, you are spot on there my friend, the chuck doesn’t register and is definitely being tightened all the time but a subscriber just suggested putting a shim between the chuck and the shoulder to stop the torque wrench effect. Some people are so smart. Cheers and thanks, Stuart 👍👍
Wow, a serious amount of potential energy was converted into kinetic energy when that thing broke loose. Got the job done though.
Thanks for your technical assessment Mark, I thought it was frustration converted in busting a gut. Cheers my friend, Stu.👍👍👍
Thank you
I have a Taiwanese lathe the same size and made the same year. To avoid getting the chuck stuck on again make a paper ring to go over the spindle. You do have to be careful about running the lathe in reverse as there is now the chance of breaking the chuck loose under a heavy load. Most of the time I run a 4 inch chuck with a 5C collet shank so running in reverse isn't a concern. I switch back and forth between the chuck and collets so it is handy.
Locking the spindle with the back gears and bull gear pin is inviting disaster. These lathes have helical cut back gears and repairing them is almost impossible in the home shop. Replacement is about the only option.
Cheers from NC/USA
Hi Aceroadholder, thanks so much for your advice. Yes, as you saw I did break the back gear but I’m pretty sure I can repair it as my back gear is straight cut and I have the broken teeth. I like your idea of a paper shim and will be doing that for sure. Running in reverse shouldn’t be a problem as I mainly only use reverse when I’m sanding or using a file just to keep it from being pushed into my hand if it gets caught. I appreciate you taking the time to try and help me out. Cheers mate and Hi to everyone in North Carolina. 👍👍👍
@@scroungasworkshop4663 Stuart, I rewatched the video and I do believe the gears are helical cut like my lathe. My lathe was built by Darsin and like a lot of the lathes made in Taiwan they are assembled from stock purchased parts. I'd bet the back gear in my lathe would be a bolt-in for your lathe. That's good news because you may be able to find used parts to fit.
I just looked and Grizzly Industrial has the back gear for $112USD for their lathe, G9249. It is confusing as their drawing shows the gear as 24/58t and the product listing says 21/58t. You'd have to count the tooth number on your broken gear and check with Grizzly tech support to see exactly what they have.
@@aceroadholder2185 Thanks for checking but I’m in Australia and Grizzly isn’t sold here. Hare & Forbes, the company that imported the lathe still sell parts but I will check to see if the back gear is still available. About 2 years ago the electric motor let the smoke out in a big way, it didn’t burst into flames but the smoke drove me outside. Anyway after chasing around on the internet for a while I couldn’t find a replacement so I rang Hare & Forbes and they said they didn’t have that motor anymore but they had a bolt in replacement the only difference being my old motor was 1hp and the new motor was 2hp. Ohh dear, what a shame please sent it to me😂😂😂. So that worked out well and they also explained that the pulley shaft is longer (sticks out the front of the motor further and the mounting foot was an unusual design) to most other motors available. I though that having spare parts for a 30 year old Taiwanese lathe was pretty good service. Cheers buddy, Stu.
@@aceroadholder2185 Sorry, I saw your other message first. You are correct, my gears are helical cut and these lathes were sold around the world with just different names and paint so i wouldn’t be surprised if parts off yours fitted mine😂😂😂 Cheers Stu👍👍
How did the drill bit fair when the drill fell off the back of the lathe?
It died instantly 😂 but it did bend a surprising amount before it snapped. What a racket it all made when the chuck let go🤣. Cheers Stu.
Just wondering, Stuart, how your ways are after using them to hold the spanner wrench at 500fp torque and then dropping the chuck on them?
Fair comment, I should have shown more detail of how I had it set up as I’ve had that comment a few times. The wrench was pushing on the side of the bed, not on the ways and I had a pair of leather gloves sitting under the chuck when it came off so no damage to the ways. I’ll have a follow up video coming and I’ll show the ways undamaged.
Thanks, Stuart.
@@scroungasworkshop4663 I'm actually super happy, for realz!
it looked pretty messed up... but turns out, everything is fine! :))
@@craftycri 👍👍Thanks.
that poor old girl needs some love
Man, what a project, hope every thing that fell is OK, One Q, did you try to disassemble the chuck an heat it from the inside? Glad you got it off after 20 years, and liked the no worries mate Stu 👍👍😂😂
Hi Douglas, the chuck is held together with bolts on the back so I couldn’t get to them even if I had thought of it😂. Thanks for the suggestion though. Cheers mate, Stu.
I have the exact same lathe , looking for a generic video on how easy it will be … I am scared now 😂
Hi Michael, yes it wasn’t easy but definitely worth it. Just a note, when I screwed the chuck back on it became almost as tight again so I made a shim out of a plastic ice cream container lid to stop it binding. That worked until the chuck came flying off, hit me in the stomach and then went for my toes. Luckily I moved my foot in time. To fix that I drilled a hole through the rear collar of the chuck and into the threaded shaft that the chuck screws into. I tapped the hole in the chuck collar and fitted a set screw. That’s been working very well. Cheers, Stuart.
I don’t suppose you have the user manual do you?
Thanks for the advice ! And no unfortunately I don’t … I just recently bought the lathe from a auction … I was also looking for a manual because It was missing the motor and mounting points but I managed to get it going
I just tried this method, sheard of the whole threaded end of the spindle... I guess my chuck is real stuck.
Wow, sorry to hear that. That’s really stuck.
Don't want to tell you how to suck eggs, but next time you do that, flip the shifter over so that all the torque is onto the fixed jaw and not the adjustable jaw, glad to see it all worked for you. 👍
Thanks, yes I should have done that 👍👍👍
Didn't work for me I ended up breaking things nit a big deal really but what I don't understand is why the heck these manufacturers didn't think of making locking transmissions for this reason.
I hear you Digger, frustrating 🤬
So you just let the chuck slam down on the bed ways?
No, I had a thick pair of leather gloves covering them for the chuck to land on.
Make yourself a brown paper washer to sit between the back face of the chuck faceplate boss and the spindle boss. Soak just the washer in grease overnight wipe off the excess ... Good to go.
3:48....Bravo.......
after all that you dropped on the ways?
No, I had a wooden board sitting on the ways but thanks for your concern 👍👍👍
😎😎😎
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