Great work Charlie. I'm amazed that you could get that completed in three days. How long did the build process take on Helix 1? I can see you putting in some sort of temporary connection to reach the river board. That will enable continuous running and would be a big milestone if you can do that. One minor detail you skipped was checking the clearance for the reversing loop that I nagged you about :) Always entertaining.
I’m so pleased that the construction lived up to your expectations Lee. The reverse loop clearance was a little tight but no remedial action was necessary. I’m now faced with the construction of the connecting board which is somewhat of a head scratching dilemma. Still, it’s only bits of wood! Thanks for your patience and guidance once more mate. Regards Charlie
This is what model railroading is about. Two people great distances between them and one helps the other ,in the case you designed the layout for Charlie, and have become friends because of it. A great thing you did for Charlie and he showing his gratitude so humbly. It is nice to witness.
@@bobainsworth5057 thanks for such a nice comment. Something that should be made very clear - the overall layout design is all Charlie. I've acted as a draftsman for him getting it into Anyrail and suggested a few tweaks and a bit of adjustment here and there to make operational aspects smoother. I can also claim to be a bit of a sounding board for Charlie. But Chadwick is very much Charlie's design.
Just watching this again "we're in the middle of a heatwave" as I glance at the outdoor thermometer reading a mere -3.8C. Oh I wish we still were, Charlie! 😆
"I do have more than one friend..." Yes, you do Charlie... yes, you do. Thank you for that reassurance. It made me laugh. I need a good laugh. Thank you. John
Evening Charlie. Chadwick is taking really good shape with the second helix being constructed 😀 The way you narrate each episode Charlie is a real pleasure to watch as you have a fantastic technique on getting the information across simply & easy to understand 👍🏻 Until your next video have a great weekend 😀
Wonder just how many viewers are watching and having the dawning that most of the running problems a certain big youtuber comes up with in his "dramatic" reviews are entirely preventable by him just laying track properly and teaching others to do so rather than perpetuating the myth that you can just chuck track on the carpet and off you go. 🤣 that oh god this is the main man promoting our hobby on youtube moment.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Chadwick Overdose. Is there treatment for this addiction. Doctor I can't get enough of stick ups , cock ups, and dreaming about those cows and how they don't fall off mount everest
Crap day at work suddenly brightened up by the realisation it was CMR day! Gloom lifted and good journey home, nosh, cup of tea and settled down to watch. Such a good and interesting vid Charlie showing all the warts and pitfalls. So, my Friday was put back on track by CMR! also known as the perfect re-railer. Thanks Charlie. Looking forward to the next...
@@ChadwickModelRailway we looked at building a helix once, wish there had been a video like this. How did you secure the verticals to the base board? :)
Really impressive Charlie, better you than me, no room, no money and only basic tech knowledge, I wouldn't stand a chance of getting it together and even less of getting it to work. But, been fun watching you do it twice. I've been working on a siding (just a siding) for over a year, so far I've got a caboose and two box cars. Next up a point and one or two sections of track a stop and minimal land scaping. Being 71 I hope to finish it with time enough left to admirer it on my shelf.
Teak coating regarding camera burn sounds like my latest video might be right up your department both for operating layout and for your production purposes. It’s always a beauty watching your videos the ultimate video encyclopedia on model railway.
Just a wonderful video! I must admit: I actually thought of you as I read an article on CNN here in the U.S. telling the story of the condition "red" for the hot weather coming next week in the U.K. Hoping all stay healthy.
Superb delivery of assembling the second helix, a lot of work, made a lot easier by having the right tools and plenty of experience. A very enjoyable video, this is a massive move forward for your layout Charlie, well done to you and to all who have given advice and ideas, plus to Lee who has done a fantastic job, what a clever spreadsheet.
I cannot wait to see that helix join the main layout and watch one of your trains complete a full helix to helix run through the scenery and fiddle yard!!
When clamping down parts of the Helix one should make sure that the section being fitted is still sitting nice and level. Three days well spent and good luck with the rest of the build. You are coming nearer and nearer to the Golden Spike Moment. Martin. (Thailand)
Love watching your videos Charlie. I don't have room in my house for a model railway, however I did have one in my childhood and always had derailments probably due to 1st radius curves and curved points, my Flying Scotsman was always derailing and I know why after watching your videos 45 years later. Many thanks Cheers Doug
Built my two with kits which came with pillars at the right height to clear my steamers. Used radius 3 for inner circuit and flex track for outer and added droppers to each individual track. Droppers came down the pillars on the inside and terminated in multi terminal bus bars that are fed from the main DCC buses. Used the same 5mm sub-bed as yourself and compensated the height with washers at the top of each pillar. The one thing that I would recommend is that the flex track joints are soldered prior to curving otherwise it is possible to introduce kinks in the outer circuit. As you said Charlie the superstructure was not too costly but the track costs a bomb! Great video as usual - keep 'em coming.
Hi Charlie. Looking good for ther second helix! Although it's not related to the helix in anyway, I spotted an issue you may want to think about. At 17:15 mins you show where the helix joins the upper level. I'm guessing the light blue is the new Chadwick TMD? Where this joins the mainline, I notice that there isn't a catch-point. In the event of a runaway loco/unit/stock suffering with brake failure or not having brakes properly applied, a catch point would be used to prevent them from going onto the running line. Hope that helps.
Yes, there should be a catch point or a derail device (Gleissperre in German) or a turnout / switch set normally against a buffer (or a sand drag) - typ depending on country, era and local conditions - protecting the main line, but that may be to p....typical for Charlie (while planning at least) 😉
Charlie, thank you for another great educational video. It is amazing that things you need to think about, and the S-Track advice is sage. Cheers, and stay safe, Michael
Hi Charlie, yes I’ve seen that in the UK that you are experiencing extremely high temperatures. Where I live in New Zealand and we regularly have similar summer temperatures, but never as high as what you are having now. In Napier where I live, the highest temperature ever recorded was 31.3 degrees in 1961, and in the whole of New Zealand the highest recorded temperature was 42.4 degrees recorded in 1973. In my situation, my model train shed is situated on the east side of our house which is the coolest side of our house in the summer. The walls, ceiling and floors like the rest of our house are insulated which helps. In winter the temperature in my train shed falls to about 12 degrees C and in summer it rises to about the early 30’s. so when I lay track in winter I allow a 1.5 to 2 mm gap in the rails, and in summer I allow a gap of only about .5 mm, but even then from time to time I still get dead shorts at the live frogs on my hand made turn-outs, and solder joints snapping due to rail expansion. We might all need to resort to installing aircon units in future. Love your Helix, let me know your secret, I don’t know how you can get a 8 car train up a 1:43 (2.34%) grade when my 371 gram kit built SR Bullied locomotive slips pulling any thing more than its own 154 gram tender and 7 142 gram Bachman coaches up a 1:142 grade on a 4ft radius curve. Regards Barry.
Great advice regarding the track gaps Barry. That seems to be a pretty nifty system. Regarding your steamer getting up the Helix, I would just add more weight to the logo and see if there’s any benefit. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, A very enjoyable video, as always! With my helix build I needed to design a custom build upper level connection to the helix, as noted by Ed at DCC Train Automation, when reviewing my design and quoting me for the helix kit. I found that the following worked well for me in the Any-rail software. Using the finalised track plan as the base reference I also tuned ‘on’ the baseboard layers. I then created a new ‘layer’ entitled “Plywood template” and in this layer drew the outline of the two pieces of 6mm ply needed to transition from the helix to the upper level baseboards. I then turned ‘off’ ALL the other layers and printed from the template layer only at scale 1:1 onto A4 sheets, remembering to suppress any ‘empty’ sheets and to include the alignment markers. All that was then needed was to align & stick the active sheets together with clear tape and cutout the printed outlines to transfer the onto my plywood. To support these pieces I created custom designed bridges, using the DCC Train Automation bridges as my guide for the rounded ends and supported these front edges via the 8mm rods and the rear (square cut) edges on timber strips (28mm in depth) from the wall of the train room. The accuracy of the Any-rail software is just a joy! I too have used R4 and R3 Set-Track curves to maximise alignment from the engineering quality of these products, and took the financial hit as you forcast. You are so right about double checking the vertical alignment of the code 100 rail sections at each joint. Love the tips and honest ‘warts an all’ in all your excellent presentations. Good Luck with your on going construction - Happy Modelling, Tony (🚂T)
hey Charlie, just a thought for your wiring on the helix. ive been planning my helix out for a bit now and a recent thought of mine could save you a TON of wire and soldering if you use crimp terminals. I use the threaded rods as bus bars for my DCC/track voltage. and then just crimp on a C terminal on the wire so you can slip it between the washers and baseboard of your layout and remove it later without unthreqding the entire rod. then you only need 3-6 inches of wire for every tag you add into your helix. my threaded rods are on different current sensing blocks and connect to each levels set of rails. it allowed me to have 8 blocks (4 per rail, 2 rails on the helix) and almost NO vertical wiring between layers
Another excellent job done to Helix #2 as the companion to Helix #1, a marriage made in heaven, LOL. I am looking forward to seeing the next level joining this helix. Then to be able to see it all form a continuous layout for your rolling stock to run all the way around. The Helix' are a massive project to take on, but worth being able to move around the layout without lifting hatches or ducking under boards on one's hands and knees (sing: knees, and toes, knees and toes, LOL).
Actually John, I’m somewhat concerned as I’ve been away from home all this week during the excessive hot temperatures. I only hope I haven’t had any track buckling! Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailwayRailway Fingers crossed Charlie it will all be okay for you when you get back. Though your work ethic is great, and your skills are superb, I think it will be grand and free running.
Very enjoyable to watch and great result achieved. Like the way you were able to smooth out the S bend, top tip from your friend there!!. That nut spinner must have been a god send. Worth mentioning the caps as well they will surely stop a painful bump when building. Those screws look just the job, they may get in the way though, if you decide to convert to Dublo 3 rail😆😆😆 Good luck from Spain!!
Another fun video, my model railroad professor! As for the cost of a helix, I had wonderful success with just 3/8" thick plywood, spacers and simple flex track. Cost about $30!
Charlie, you make it look so easy! But, alas, we all know the truth! Well done video; up to your usual standard of excellence! Can't wait to see the final result - continuous running! Thanks for the great lesson!
Thanks Charlie for an informative and factual tips for any one whom is about or thinking of building an helix. Looking forward to H2 complication to main upper boards and hopefully continuous running on Chadwick. Please take care and stay safe..
Hi Charlie. Another great presentation. Having been thru the task of helix building myself some years back I started by working things out with a 'Helix Calculator'. I could not find one at the time so had to write my own program. To cut the story short my humble advice is to start this way and fiddle about until it fits ones requirements by using a 'Helix Calculator' of some sort.
Another informative and enjoyable video from Chadwick. It also helps, Charlie, when you have transition curves prior to and following a curve, as the practice of the 12 inches to the foot scale railways. You are correct in advising not to trust rail joiners for conductivity. I think it is good practice that each individual piece of track, no matter how small, has at least one bus power feed, either directly, or via block current detection circuits. Also with testing gradients, you will find that steamers are generally worse than diesels for track adhesion, so always try your steamers with a long train too. Have a great weekend. Best, Jason.
When using Anyrail, if you use the helix tool, it will calculate the heights for each section. If you use 45 degree sections of track, the program calculates the heights at the relevant joins. The spreadsheet is also a fantastic tool for those not using this software. Great video again Charlie. Looking forward to future videos. Cheers.
Thanks Charlie for another good video. Maybe when I can release a room, I could do with a couple of spirals. Thank you for taking us step by step through a number of pitfalls, several of which I wouldn't have even thought about. Definitely I wouldn't have thought about building it at peak temperatures and then wondered why track buckling took place. Mind you, super cold weather in attics can cause the track to contract in winter, which if you have connected the track in hot weather can cause huge gaps between the track. Unfortunately, I found out the hard way about S curves although using flexible track and a very shallow S instead of straight track can look very attractive in a layout. I agree about the re-use of fish plates having been caught out by this in the past, so will only use them as a temporary solution because I can't remember where I put the new fish plates that I bought. (Senior moments only get worse. Three things happened when I got to 70. The first was I started losing my memory and I can't remember what the other two things are now. Quote Norman Wisdom). Definitely run your hands along the track to ensure that you have actually connected the track properly. The disconnect usually only happens on one side and the way you tell is that the stock does a leap and then something de-rails. Then I think, I thought I had checked that bit.
Brilliant update Charlie helix looks awesome 👌 a few interesting tools there and useful information once again thanks for everything pointed out in the video. Look forward to the next one. Kind regards Gary
Stuck in a town called Kyzylorda because the airline is appalling in Kazakhstan and all their managers are Brits too. Chadwick is the best remedy for certain sure. Perfect timing. Could you do another one for tomorrow as rumours have it they'll cancel or delay again? Anything, make a cup of tea and film it, it'll do 😁👍
I'm immensely relieved to hear the training's worked and you've dropped "off of" from your vocal repertoire Charlie! And who said you can't teach an old dog new tricks! :) All tongue in cheek.... Great video as usual. Kindest regards, Julian from Valebridge Model Railway.
Outstanding Video once again, Charlie. Always keep an eye out for sales on clamps at the B&Q (or one's local version of a Home Improvement Store). Squeeze, spring, every possible clamp will, occasionally go on sale. f course, one winds up needing bodge up a fixture to hold one's dozens of clamps, but that is a necessary "evil." Another spiffy item one might want is a battery-driven Right Angle Ratchet--these are often available for cheap at Harbor Freight (or the local equivalent). Digital levels are a marvel, I have been through several, as they are required for checking on Architectural Barriers in new Construction. You want to keep them at "room temperature" as much as possible, lest the batteries corrode unexpectedly (ask me how I know).
The hill on the backcloth; you could put Glastonbury Tor on the top. I believe from reading LTC Rolt's account of the Foxcote disaster, that the S&DJR went through Glastonbury.
Hi Charlie, I would recommend machine head screws instead of those bobble headed ones as they have a flat head profile, so are less likely to make contact with a coupling. Great video as always 👍
Charlie excllant video as always, there's a company called accu which specialises in stainles steel rods nuts washers and screws worth looking at, although i have no railway i enjoy your videos, came across accu when doing a lot of mods to my yacht.
Hi Charlie - could relate to everything you were saying re the Helix. As someone who has built two for my own layout I could relate to everything you said. As with OO my N Gauge helix was that expensive - it's the track ! As I have 8 turns to drop around 15" I used 70 odd 3rd and 4th.radius set track units. Just sourcing them was a job and a half. Ended up buying from a number of outlets across the UK. Spot on with testing as well - every circle laid and I ran my 7 car HST up to check everything worked. I really should send you a picture of the "beasts". Cheers Euan
I used one outer and one inner rod as vertical conductor. And instead of using so many nuts I use tubes over the rod. Only for the first turn the tubes have different length. Once the incline is fixed all tubes can be precut to the same length. I still use the washers to protect the tubes from pinching the wood. The thickness of the washers should match the thickness of the crimping ring for the electrical connection of the rod. The stability comes at the end when the top nuts are tightened.
Great to see Helix 2 completed! Looking forward to seeing the train view run around the whole layout from the track view, like "hades" but shorter! Are you sitting a whole board above the helix next? ;) Great video!
Hi Charlie, Best video ever! How do you keep on doing it, you made it so easy to follow (step-by-step) building a helix which is a complex structure explained down to its basic components and loved it! keep them coming I'm glued to your channel.
I’m never, ever, going to build one of those things….but watched enthralled by the combination of, design, geometry and engineering. Thank you for an entertaining evening. I do have inclines, and use a free App on my smart phone to measure gradients. Probably not quite as good as your digital spirit level, but it’s free and does the job. The one I use is called iHandy Level.
I've used screws like that for track laying for ages, even in scenic areas. It allows track changes to be so easy while in the testing stage. Then when all testing is done, then its time to ballast and that glues the track down. Just leave a gap around the screws, when its all dry, remove screws and back fill with ballast. I know you like glueing your track down but believe me, using these typer of screws is the way to go for track laying
@@ChadwickModelRailway yes, not sure of the size of the screws you have used but you do have to make sure they don't have too big a screwhead with kadees
Thanks Charlie for another interesting and enjoyable video with plenty of good tips as always for modellers. It looks really nice and hopefully soon you will have all the baseboards in place to finish the trackwork. It seems like a long journey.
Hi Charlie. Very interesting video again. I use AnyRail quite a bit and I notice at 15:08 when you show the helix track plan, you seem to have a couple of section curves that are less than you AR minimum radius setting which Im guessing is 505mm for the 3rd radii. These are shown by the red lines in the centre of the track pieces. For example the green & white track sections leading into the points on the 34 inch(?) base board between the fiddle yard and helix and the start of your reverse loop, the 'S' section in orange & white coming off the points. The red lines on the track centers show these curves are all tighter than your specified minimum radius set in AnyRail. These could be as tight as 2nd radii. You'd have to change and reduce whatever your minimum radius is set to in AR and see at what point the centre red lines disappear to confirm this. Of course if trains already run through these sections without issues, you dont have any probs. HTH!
In the plans for Chadwick, Anyrail's minimum radius is set to 24". Yes there are some sections flagged at less than that but generally the difference is fairly small. And as you might have noticed, as the client and construction manager, Charlie is free to adjust the "as built" to allow slightly more generous curves if he feels they are necessary. The positioning of the point that is the diverge for the reversing loop and the outer track of the helix being an example. Unlike some builders, Charlie doesn't printout a full scale copy of the plan, stick it down on the baseboard and then position track exactly where it is shown on the plan. I think the only part that has needed to be built *exactly* to plan is board 5 where the two ladders of points for the storage yards had to be accurately positioned to get 12 of the fourteen points lined up with the other two points on boards 4 and 6. The points on boards 6 and 4 had to start 295mm before the board edge and the straights between each point in the ladder needed to be 60mm long
Thanks TFF, I do appreciate your comment regarding the any rail curves. However, what I do find is when you lay the track, the track seems to find its own way. It might sound odd but it kind of works. Regards Charlie
Excellent as always Charlie! When you had the HST on the first loop I was willing you to try reversing it off again to see if it would work - but you didn't! (not on camera anyway!). Would it have worked? On re-railers I had something like that with my Tri-Ang set back in the 1960s although that was a long thin plastic thing that you slide a coach down onto a rail - come to think about it, that was actually called a "Railer" not a re-railer. I just checked and it was called a T-251 Railer and as you might expect, there are some used 1960s ones STILL for sale on eBay!! What an age we live in. Thanks again.
Great comment Alan. Yes, rest assured the HST did reverse out perfectly back into the Findlay yard. The Railer is made by Hornby and it is a R620. Regards Charlie
I think it's a combination of things: carriages on a curve will always be trying to take the shortest possible (i.e. straight) path but the wheel flanges and centrifugal force combine to keep them on the (curved) tracks. Having weight at the rear of a train has a braking effect which means that lighter stock at the front will get an even stronger sideways force on them when on a curve. When passing over an 's' curve, the centrifugal force shifts sharply from one direction (sideways) to the other which creates a 'whiplash' effect which is often enough on its own to cause a derailment and when that's combined with braking from the rear the flanges aren't enough to keep order. There's a similar phenomenon when towing a caravan (for example) - if it starts to 'snake' or wave from side to side, the solution is to speed up briefly as this pulls everything back into line again, at which point braking will work. Or not. Hopefully someone else can confirm or explain!
I forgot that there's also the issue of Camber or Cant - where we bank up track on the outside of curves to help counteract centrifugal force. A sudden change in camber as the 's' bend is negotiated will also cause problems.
Hi Charlie Wow, Great video, I think this is the 'definative how to' video for building Helices, although I haven't seen your previous ones (114 was it?). The maths part still scrambles my brain but if I ever get round to building a helix, I know where to come now. Thanks again.
Hi Charlie my 12 x 6 layout is nearly complete and I put droppers on every piece of track (overkill yes) BUT I had 2 suspension bridges so droppers like your helix would look messy. I soldered bridging links on the rails just outside the fishplates just to be safe. Yes you can see them if you look but better than searching for bad fishplate connections later. Watch all your vids Brilliant Thanks
Interesting as ever, Charlie. I wouldn't have the skill, patience, or inclination to build a helix. I did stay awake right to the end of your video though - honest. Good tip about checking fishplates are connected properly and using those largish screws to avoid sleeper deformation. I see you plan to have a TMD above said helix. I was at Whatley yesterday and the depot there is very modelable.
Charlie, I understand that UK is having dangerous heat problems. Please be careful. We don't want to lose you. I live at an elevation of 6800 feet above sea level so I don't get as much heat. Greetings from Colorado Springs.
Yet another informative and invaluable video Mr Bishop. So .....you have at least 2 friends ....impressive :) I have never used Gorilla Wood Glue because I am an Evostick man but I think it is worth pointing out to viewers that generic Gorilla glue expands upon curing (A bit like expanding foam) and that would obviously disturb the levelling of the helix baseboards. Stay safe mate, see you in due course
@@ChadwickModelRailway I only found out about this because I have a friend who is a joiner....yes...I also have more than one friend ;) Apparently the glue knocks their crafted work out of kilter as it expands and they do not like it. I have seen evidence of this and it is not just an urban myth....As you often say my friend, we live and we learn. Take care Charlie, love to you all x
The Dos and Don'ts of Building a Helix Chapter One - Don't Epilogue ;-) I have to hand it to you, Charlie. You've built two fairly tall helices to date, and you still like model railroading. Good show! For layouts with wide temperature variances & debilitating summer heat, I think heating an entire room for hours in winter with high wattage plug-in heaters (& working in your skivvies😶) is pretty expensive. I should think a couple used or cheap electric blankets would be better - one to fold over track sections, and another to warm the work area. Heating only what's needed should be far less expensive when it's not subarctic out.
Excellent video once again Charlie, that maths makes my head pound though! I think I’ll stick with my little end to end design! Can’t wait to see your trains running with both helix in action. Keep up the great work!
Thanks for that Charlie. As a thought, regarding end and start of loop joins so that if (heavan help you) you have to dismantle any of it, instead of using fishplates leave a small gap and maybe solder a wire across them for continuity? Just a thought! Regards Terry
Great stuff, Charlie, what a good job. It strikes me that assuming the vertical heights between levels are constant at every vertical bar, couldn't you use tubes of the appropriate length as spacers and secure the tops only with nuts to avoid all that nut twiddling?
Yes you’re dead right John, using a jig does make things somewhat easier. However, I won’t be tightening up those nuts until I get trains running constantly in a satisfactory condition on the inclines. Regards Charlie
Great work Charlie. I'm amazed that you could get that completed in three days. How long did the build process take on Helix 1? I can see you putting in some sort of temporary connection to reach the river board. That will enable continuous running and would be a big milestone if you can do that.
One minor detail you skipped was checking the clearance for the reversing loop that I nagged you about :)
Always entertaining.
I’m so pleased that the construction lived up to your expectations Lee. The reverse loop clearance was a little tight but no remedial action was necessary.
I’m now faced with the construction of the connecting board which is somewhat of a head scratching dilemma.
Still, it’s only bits of wood!
Thanks for your patience and guidance once more mate.
Regards Charlie
This is what model railroading is about. Two people great distances between them and one helps the other ,in the case you designed the layout for Charlie, and have become friends because of it. A great thing you did for Charlie and he showing his gratitude so humbly. It is nice to witness.
That’s a very heartwarming comment Bob. Regards Charlie
@@bobainsworth5057 thanks for such a nice comment.
Something that should be made very clear - the overall layout design is all Charlie. I've acted as a draftsman for him getting it into Anyrail and suggested a few tweaks and a bit of adjustment here and there to make operational aspects smoother. I can also claim to be a bit of a sounding board for Charlie.
But Chadwick is very much Charlie's design.
I'm a Lee Stobart spotter 😁👍
That 5-track helix you showed is absolutely crazy
Yes, I can’t imagine building it.
Regards Charlie
Just watching this again "we're in the middle of a heatwave" as I glance at the outdoor thermometer reading a mere -3.8C. Oh I wish we still were, Charlie! 😆
Our cold spell is now over. It’s the first time the temperature has come above zero for four days. Regards Charlie
"I do have more than one friend..." Yes, you do Charlie... yes, you do. Thank you for that reassurance. It made me laugh. I need a good laugh. Thank you. John
Thanks John, I’m so pleased that I brought a smile to your face. Regards Charlie
It won't be long now and a choo choo will go from start to start all by itself.
Way to go Charlie.
In two months time will be there Bill. Regards Charlie
Evening Charlie. Chadwick is taking really good shape with the second helix being constructed 😀 The way you narrate each episode Charlie is a real pleasure to watch as you have a fantastic technique on getting the information across simply & easy to understand 👍🏻 Until your next video have a great weekend 😀
What a truly heartwarming comment Stevie.
Take care mate, regards Charlie
That "Yes, I have more than one friend." statement. The comedy continues!
As long as we all keep smiling RV. Regards Charlie
I won't let you down Charlie!! Never ever!!
You’re a good man Onno.
Regards Charlie
Wonder just how many viewers are watching and having the dawning that most of the running problems a certain big youtuber comes up with in his "dramatic" reviews are entirely preventable by him just laying track properly and teaching others to do so rather than perpetuating the myth that you can just chuck track on the carpet and off you go. 🤣 that oh god this is the main man promoting our hobby on youtube moment.
Tam Stains by any chance? Beloved by the TH-cam algorithm. Can't escape the guy.
@@markchambers3833 no idea who you're talking about ;)
Open secrets lol
Gentlemen, we attract the audience that we deserve.
Take care, regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway never a more truthful word spoken about the fine taste of your viewers, charlie. Keep respecting them and they'll take you far.
Wonderful to see Helix #2!
Thanks Cameron, regards Charlie
Charlie you're patience is boundless thanks very much, a most enjoyable and informative episode.
thank you..
That’s very kind of you to say so Davey. Regards Charlie
I been watching videos for 9 hours so far and still going
You must get out more BoomBox.
You could Over Dose!
Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Chadwick Overdose. Is there treatment for this addiction. Doctor I can't get enough of stick ups , cock ups, and dreaming about those cows and how they don't fall off mount everest
That was a good watch Charlie 👍Put me off ever building a helix for life ha ha.
Probably good move then Jeff. Regards Charlie
Crap day at work suddenly brightened up by the realisation it was CMR day! Gloom lifted and good journey home, nosh, cup of tea and settled down to watch. Such a good and interesting vid Charlie showing all the warts and pitfalls. So, my Friday was put back on track by CMR! also known as the perfect re-railer.
Thanks Charlie. Looking forward to the next...
What a fabulous heartwarming comment Will. You’ve really cheered me up. Regards Charlie
Thank you. You have a very relaxing and reassuring voice!
Thanks Rachel, that’s very kind of you to say so.
Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway we looked at building a helix once, wish there had been a video like this. How did you secure the verticals to the base board? :)
Hi Charlie, track is the killer, nearly 60 metres in my helix but also 4 track. Most enjoyable as usual.
As you say, the price is frightening. Regards Charlie
Really impressive Charlie, better you than me, no room, no money and only basic tech knowledge, I wouldn't stand a chance of getting it together and even less of getting it to work. But, been fun watching you do it twice. I've been working on a siding (just a siding) for over a year, so far I've got a caboose and two box cars. Next up a point and one or two sections of track a stop and minimal land scaping. Being 71 I hope to finish it with time enough left to admirer it on my shelf.
It’s nice to hear that you are making progress midnight riders. Regards Charlie
Well done Charlie! Must be a relief to No 2 done. Best wishes. Rob
Thank you Rob, we’re almost there. Regards Charlie
Great work Charlie you must have the patience of an angel, all those factors when building a helix
I think it’s just a case of careful planning mate. And keeping your fingers crossed and hoping for the best! Regards Charlie
Teak coating regarding camera burn sounds like my latest video might be right up your department both for operating layout and for your production purposes. It’s always a beauty watching your videos the ultimate video encyclopedia on model railway.
That’s very kind of you to say so Josef. Regards Charlie
Just a wonderful video! I must admit: I actually thought of you as I read an article on CNN here in the U.S. telling the story of the condition "red" for the hot weather coming next week in the U.K. Hoping all stay healthy.
Thank you Kevin, that’s very kind mate. Regards Charlie
Superb delivery of assembling the second helix, a lot of work, made a lot easier by having the right tools and plenty of experience. A very enjoyable video, this is a massive move forward for your layout Charlie, well done to you and to all who have given advice and ideas, plus to Lee who has done a fantastic job, what a clever spreadsheet.
Thanks David, I’m so pleased you found it interesting. We have to remember that it’s teamwork, that makes the dream work. Regards Charlie
Oops..... almost missed this very interesting video!! Thanks for sharing Charlie!!! Cheers Onno.
Don’t let me down Onno, I can’t lose you. Regards Charlie
Don’t let me down Onno, I can’t lose you. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie
You make it look so easy, really enjoyed show.
Thanks Kevin 👍
Thank you Kevin, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting mate. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, excellent video as always very informative. the beast is taking shape now alright! looks great
I’m just now faced with a dilemma of the benchwork to connect it all up Richard. Regards Charlie
I cannot wait to see that helix join the main layout and watch one of your trains complete a full helix to helix run through the scenery and fiddle yard!!
Nor can I Josh, it’s been a long journey! Regards Charlie
Enjoyed your video Charlie and liked thanks for sharing DD.
Glad you enjoyed it MMR, stay safe, regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thanks Charlie
Hi Charlie, another great episode.
Thanks, G3069, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards, Charlie
Thanks for the heads up for the Digital level! Wonderful video as ever Charlie!👏👏👏👏
I’m so pleased that you found the video interesting mate. Regards Charlie
Fantastic video Charlie. Very well explained. I am quite excited to see the end result now. Thanks for sharing. Roy.
That’s very kind of you to say so Roy, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
The threaded rods are how my helix was constructed. Getting the slope right was straightforward.
I’m glad your construction was successful James. Regards Charlie
When clamping down parts of the Helix one should make sure that the section being fitted is still sitting nice and level. Three days well spent and good luck with the rest of the build. You are coming nearer and nearer to the Golden Spike Moment. Martin. (Thailand)
Yes the golden spike is an interesting thought Martin. Regards Charlie
Hello Charlie,
Every other Friday isn't every other Friday without Chadwick.
Hope everything is OK.
Bob
Yes everything is fine Robert, just running a week late. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Your well being the the main thing.
Another great video Charlie. Thank you. I do love your viewer's 5 lane Helix with combined storage yards. such a good use of all that track.
Yes Andrew, it’s a staggering construction.
Very clear excellent video. Did have to look up Youvil though! Looking forward to the next video.cheers.
Thanks Mark, I’m so pleased that you found a video interesting mate. Regards Charlie
Love watching your videos Charlie. I don't have room in my house for a model railway, however I did have one in my childhood and always had derailments probably due to 1st radius curves and curved points, my Flying Scotsman was always derailing and I know why after watching your videos 45 years later.
Many thanks Cheers Doug
But they remain treasured memories Doug. Regards Charlie
Built my two with kits which came with pillars at the right height to clear my steamers. Used radius 3 for inner circuit and flex track for outer and added droppers to each individual track. Droppers came down the pillars on the inside and terminated in multi terminal bus bars that are fed from the main DCC buses. Used the same 5mm sub-bed as yourself and compensated the height with washers at the top of each pillar. The one thing that I would recommend is that the flex track joints are soldered prior to curving otherwise it is possible to introduce kinks in the outer circuit. As you said Charlie the superstructure was not too costly but the track costs a bomb! Great video as usual - keep 'em coming.
We sing from the same song sheet Peter, regards Charlie
Thanks, Charlie. For me, your Lessons Learned from the first helix were especially valuable. Gotta love that Swiftnut :) Cheers from MD USA. Peter
Thanks Peter, I’m so pleased that you found the lessons that I have learnt, interesting.
Take care mate, regards Charlie
Hi Charlie.
Looking good for ther second helix!
Although it's not related to the helix in anyway, I spotted an issue you may want to think about.
At 17:15 mins you show where the helix joins the upper level.
I'm guessing the light blue is the new Chadwick TMD?
Where this joins the mainline, I notice that there isn't a catch-point.
In the event of a runaway loco/unit/stock suffering with brake failure or not having brakes properly applied, a catch point would be used to prevent them from going onto the running line.
Hope that helps.
Yes, there should be a catch point or a derail device (Gleissperre in German) or a turnout / switch set normally against a buffer (or a sand drag) - typ depending on country, era and local conditions - protecting the main line,
but that may be to p....typical for Charlie (while planning at least) 😉
Thanks Laura, definitely food for thought. Regards Charlie
Just the step I am perfecting now thanks to your amazing content, much faster and close enough to earning the prototypical tag. Thank you Charlie!
I’m so pleased that you enjoy the channel John. Stay tuned mate, regards Charlie
Do like your helix and the nut runner gadget Charlie thankyou for the video
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting Mark. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, whilst I have no desire to have a Helix on my layout I nevertheless found this video quite interesting. Regards Greg
Thanks Greg, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting mate. Regards Charlie
Charlie, thank you for another great educational video. It is amazing that things you need to think about, and the S-Track advice is sage.
Cheers, and stay safe, Michael
Thanks Michael, I’m so pleased that you found a video interesting mate. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, yes I’ve seen that in the UK that you are experiencing extremely high temperatures. Where I live in New Zealand and we regularly have similar summer temperatures, but never as high as what you are having now. In Napier where I live, the highest temperature ever recorded was 31.3 degrees in 1961, and in the whole of New Zealand the highest recorded temperature was 42.4 degrees recorded in 1973. In my situation, my model train shed is situated on the east side of our house which is the coolest side of our house in the summer.
The walls, ceiling and floors like the rest of our house are insulated which helps. In winter the temperature in my train shed falls to about 12 degrees C and in summer it rises to about the early 30’s. so when I lay track in winter I allow a 1.5 to 2 mm gap in the rails, and in summer I allow a gap of only about .5 mm, but even then from time to time I still get dead shorts at the live frogs on my hand made turn-outs, and solder joints snapping due to rail expansion. We might all need to resort to installing aircon units in future.
Love your Helix, let me know your secret, I don’t know how you can get a 8 car train up a 1:43 (2.34%) grade when my 371 gram kit built SR Bullied locomotive slips pulling any thing more than its own 154 gram tender and 7 142 gram Bachman coaches up a 1:142 grade on a 4ft radius curve. Regards Barry.
Great advice regarding the track gaps Barry. That seems to be a pretty nifty system. Regarding your steamer getting up the Helix, I would just add more weight to the logo and see if there’s any benefit. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway I was thinking exactly the same.👍
Thanks for showing the second Helix build.
Hi Charlie, A very enjoyable video, as always!
With my helix build I needed to design a custom build upper level connection to the helix, as noted by Ed at DCC Train Automation, when reviewing my design and quoting me for the helix kit.
I found that the following worked well for me in the Any-rail software.
Using the finalised track plan as the base reference I also tuned ‘on’ the baseboard layers. I then created a new ‘layer’ entitled “Plywood template” and in this layer drew the outline of the two pieces of 6mm ply needed to transition from the helix to the upper level baseboards. I then turned ‘off’ ALL the other layers and printed from the template layer only at scale 1:1 onto A4 sheets, remembering to suppress any ‘empty’ sheets and to include the alignment markers. All that was then needed was to align & stick the active sheets together with clear tape and cutout the printed outlines to transfer the onto my plywood.
To support these pieces I created custom designed bridges, using the DCC Train Automation bridges as my guide for the rounded ends and supported these front edges via the 8mm rods and the rear (square cut) edges on timber strips (28mm in depth) from the wall of the train room.
The accuracy of the Any-rail software is just a joy!
I too have used R4 and R3 Set-Track curves to maximise alignment from the engineering quality of these products, and took the financial hit as you forcast.
You are so right about double checking the vertical alignment of the code 100 rail sections at each joint.
Love the tips and honest ‘warts an all’ in all your excellent presentations.
Good Luck with your on going construction - Happy Modelling, Tony (🚂T)
I’m so pleased I enjoyed the video Tony, and relieved to hear that your Helix turned out well also. Regards Charlie
hey Charlie, just a thought for your wiring on the helix.
ive been planning my helix out for a bit now and a recent thought of mine could save you a TON of wire and soldering if you use crimp terminals.
I use the threaded rods as bus bars for my DCC/track voltage.
and then just crimp on a C terminal on the wire so you can slip it between the washers and baseboard of your layout and remove it later without unthreqding the entire rod.
then you only need 3-6 inches of wire for every tag you add into your helix.
my threaded rods are on different current sensing blocks and connect to each levels set of rails.
it allowed me to have 8 blocks (4 per rail, 2 rails on the helix) and almost NO vertical wiring between layers
You’re a cunning modeller SW.
Regards e
Wonderful video Charlie
Thanks Mels, regards Charlie
Amazing Charlie..that was very enjoyable..thank you. You always explain everything that even I can understand. Take care..all the best.
Thanks Tim, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting mate. Regards Charlie
Another excellent job done to Helix #2 as the companion to Helix #1, a marriage made in heaven, LOL. I am looking forward to seeing the next level joining this helix. Then to be able to see it all form a continuous layout for your rolling stock to run all the way around. The Helix' are a massive project to take on, but worth being able to move around the layout without lifting hatches or ducking under boards on one's hands and knees (sing: knees, and toes, knees and toes, LOL).
Actually John, I’m somewhat concerned as I’ve been away from home all this week during the excessive hot temperatures. I only hope I haven’t had any track buckling!
Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailwayRailway Fingers crossed Charlie it will all be okay for you when you get back. Though your work ethic is great, and your skills are superb, I think it will be grand and free running.
Another cracking video, Charlie. You never disappoint with your content and presentation.
Thanks GS, that’s very kind of you to say so mate. Regards Charlie
Hello Charlie, Lovely. In our house you are known as the Barry Bucknell of modal railway building, and that's a compliment by the way!
Thanks Carol, praise indeed. Regards Charlie
Very enjoyable to watch and great result achieved.
Like the way you were able to smooth out the S bend, top tip from your friend there!!. That nut spinner must have been a god send. Worth mentioning the caps as well they will surely stop a painful bump when building.
Those screws look just the job, they may get in the way though, if you decide to convert to Dublo 3 rail😆😆😆
Good luck from Spain!!
I’m so pleased that you found it enjoyable David. Regards Charlie
Another fun video, my model railroad professor! As for the cost of a helix, I had wonderful success with just 3/8" thick plywood, spacers and simple flex track. Cost about $30!
I’m so pleased that you found a less expensive alternative.
Regards Charlie.
Charlie, you make it look so easy! But, alas, we all know the truth! Well done video; up to your usual standard of excellence! Can't wait to see the final result - continuous running! Thanks for the great lesson!
At last the dream is almost complete. Thanks Pat, regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie for an informative and factual tips for any one whom is about or thinking of building an helix. Looking forward to H2 complication to main upper boards and hopefully continuous running on Chadwick. Please take care and stay safe..
Thanks Barry, it’s just a complex benchwork I need to sort out now to connect it all up. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie. Another great presentation. Having been thru the task of helix building myself some years back I started by working things out with a 'Helix Calculator'. I could not find one at the time so had to write my own program. To cut the story short my humble advice is to start this way and fiddle about until it fits ones requirements by using a 'Helix Calculator' of some sort.
Yes sound advice mate, regards Charlie
Good work as always 👍
Thanks DJ, regards Charlie
Another informative and enjoyable video from Chadwick.
It also helps, Charlie, when you have transition curves prior to and following a curve, as the practice of the 12 inches to the foot scale railways. You are correct in advising not to trust rail joiners for conductivity. I think it is good practice that each individual piece of track, no matter how small, has at least one bus power feed, either directly, or via block current detection circuits. Also with testing gradients, you will find that steamers are generally worse than diesels for track adhesion, so always try your steamers with a long train too.
Have a great weekend. Best, Jason.
Sound advice Jason, regards Charlie
When using Anyrail, if you use the helix tool, it will calculate the heights for each section.
If you use 45 degree sections of track, the program calculates the heights at the relevant joins.
The spreadsheet is also a fantastic tool for those not using this software.
Great video again Charlie.
Looking forward to future videos.
Cheers.
Yes I am aware of the Helix Calculator Craig. My gifted track planner Lee, sorts out this stuff for me thankfully. Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie for another good video. Maybe when I can release a room, I could do with a couple of spirals. Thank you for taking us step by step through a number of pitfalls, several of which I wouldn't have even thought about. Definitely I wouldn't have thought about building it at peak temperatures and then wondered why track buckling took place. Mind you, super cold weather in attics can cause the track to contract in winter, which if you have connected the track in hot weather can cause huge gaps between the track. Unfortunately, I found out the hard way about S curves although using flexible track and a very shallow S instead of straight track can look very attractive in a layout. I agree about the re-use of fish plates having been caught out by this in the past, so will only use them as a temporary solution because I can't remember where I put the new fish plates that I bought. (Senior moments only get worse. Three things happened when I got to 70. The first was I started losing my memory and I can't remember what the other two things are now. Quote Norman Wisdom). Definitely run your hands along the track to ensure that you have actually connected the track properly. The disconnect usually only happens on one side and the way you tell is that the stock does a leap and then something de-rails. Then I think, I thought I had checked that bit.
Hey great comment done. I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the channel mate. Regards Charlie
Great tips, thanks Charlie
You’re most welcome Jonathan. Regards Charlie
awesome video
Thanks again Mels. Regards Charlie
Brilliant update Charlie helix looks awesome 👌 a few interesting tools there and useful information once again thanks for everything pointed out in the video. Look forward to the next one. Kind regards Gary
Thanks Gary, it’s great to have you onboard mate. Regards Charlie
Stuck in a town called Kyzylorda because the airline is appalling in Kazakhstan and all their managers are Brits too. Chadwick is the best remedy for certain sure. Perfect timing. Could you do another one for tomorrow as rumours have it they'll cancel or delay again? Anything, make a cup of tea and film it, it'll do 😁👍
I’m glad that I can improve your morale Chris, in such a miserable circumstance. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway They cancelled the flight three times, I ended up getting a taxi - same distance as Land's End to Inverness too. Never again!
I'm immensely relieved to hear the training's worked and you've dropped "off of" from your vocal repertoire Charlie! And who said you can't teach an old dog new tricks! :) All tongue in cheek.... Great video as usual.
Kindest regards, Julian from Valebridge Model Railway.
I do my best Julian, and that’s the best we can hope for! Regards Charlie
Outstanding Video once again, Charlie.
Always keep an eye out for sales on clamps at the B&Q (or one's local version of a Home Improvement Store). Squeeze, spring, every possible clamp will, occasionally go on sale. f course, one winds up needing bodge up a fixture to hold one's dozens of clamps, but that is a necessary "evil."
Another spiffy item one might want is a battery-driven Right Angle Ratchet--these are often available for cheap at Harbor Freight (or the local equivalent).
Digital levels are a marvel, I have been through several, as they are required for checking on Architectural Barriers in new Construction. You want to keep them at "room temperature" as much as possible, lest the batteries corrode unexpectedly (ask me how I know).
Battery driven right angle wrench, now there’s a thought, regards Charlie
The hill on the backcloth; you could put Glastonbury Tor on the top. I believe from reading LTC Rolt's account of the Foxcote disaster, that the S&DJR went through Glastonbury.
I shall check it out Tim. Regards Charlie
Great video as usual Charlie, thank you
You’re most welcome Onky, I’m pleased that you found it interesting.
Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, I would recommend machine head screws instead of those bobble headed ones as they have a flat head profile, so are less likely to make contact with a coupling.
Great video as always 👍
I do appreciate your comment Chris, however they are lower than the rail heads themselves. Regards Charlie
Charlie excllant video as always, there's a company called accu which specialises in stainles steel rods nuts washers and screws worth looking at, although i have no railway i enjoy your videos, came across accu when doing a lot of mods to my yacht.
Thanks Philip, next time I’ll certainly check them out. Regards, Charlie
Hi Charlie - could relate to everything you were saying re the Helix. As someone who has built two for my own layout I could relate to everything you said. As with OO my N Gauge helix was that expensive - it's the track ! As I have 8 turns to drop around 15" I used 70 odd 3rd and 4th.radius set track units. Just sourcing them was a job and a half. Ended up buying from a number of outlets across the UK. Spot on with testing as well - every circle laid and I ran my 7 car HST up to check everything worked. I really should send you a picture of the "beasts". Cheers Euan
What a great comment Ewan. I’m so pleased you’ve had similar success, it isn’t by luck mate. Regards Charlie
Nice 'S' curve and glad the tape measure wasn't wobbling to much 😂
Don’t worry Ed, I kept my nerve by holding it still!
Thanks for your help buddy much appreciated.
Regards Charlie
I used one outer and one inner rod as vertical conductor. And instead of using so many nuts I use tubes over the rod. Only for the first turn the tubes have different length. Once the incline is fixed all tubes can be precut to the same length. I still use the washers to protect the tubes from pinching the wood. The thickness of the washers should match the thickness of the crimping ring for the electrical connection of the rod. The stability comes at the end when the top nuts are tightened.
A fantastic innovation Juri.
Regards Charlie.
Hey Charlie hope everything is alright missing this weeks video as I continue to remake my layout
Keep up the Great Work hope to hear from you soon
Sorry Chris but the guys in the video want another edit. Probably for the best! Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Oh I see
Do we have another Chuckle Brothers Video in the making save them for the Blooper Reel For Christmas.
Probably!
Great to see Helix 2 completed! Looking forward to seeing the train view run around the whole layout from the track view, like "hades" but shorter! Are you sitting a whole board above the helix next? ;) Great video!
Hi Gavin, I might install a temporary connection first to test out the whole layout. The bench work will be a challenge! Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, Best video ever! How do you keep on doing it, you made it so easy to follow (step-by-step) building a helix which is a complex structure explained down to its basic components and loved it! keep them coming I'm glued to your channel.
What a heartwarming comment Paul, regards Charlie
awesome charlie
Thanks Christopher, regards Charlie
Thanks Christopher, regards Charlie
Thanks for this video Charlie I was going to ask you about a curves
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Alan. Regards Charlie
Great progress Charlie. Start to finished without all the repetitive stuff in the middle. Always remember the 7 P's, especially with a helix! Cheers
So true Davie, so true!. Regards Charlie
interesting idea those Helix {s} Unfortunatly I dont have room for one never mind two. still another good viseo to help us all
Thanks John, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
I’m never, ever, going to build one of those things….but watched enthralled by the combination of, design, geometry and engineering. Thank you for an entertaining evening. I do have inclines, and use a free App on my smart phone to measure gradients. Probably not quite as good as your digital spirit level, but it’s free and does the job. The one I use is called iHandy Level.
If it works for you Peter then fair enough, that’s all that really matters. Regards Charlie
I've used screws like that for track laying for ages, even in scenic areas. It allows track changes to be so easy while in the testing stage. Then when all testing is done, then its time to ballast and that glues the track down. Just leave a gap around the screws, when its all dry, remove screws and back fill with ballast. I know you like glueing your track down but believe me, using these typer of screws is the way to go for track laying
That sounds like a good move.
However, I use the smaller screws for my scenic area until the testing is complete. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway yes, not sure of the size of the screws you have used but you do have to make sure they don't have too big a screwhead with kadees
Great Video as always
Thanks Alan, regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie for another interesting and enjoyable video with plenty of good tips as always for modellers. It looks really nice and hopefully soon you will have all the baseboards in place to finish the trackwork. It seems like a long journey.
Thanks Simon, I need to connect up the tracks now, to complete the testing.
Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie. Very interesting video again. I use AnyRail quite a bit and I notice at 15:08 when you show the helix track plan, you seem to have a couple of section curves that are less than you AR minimum radius setting which Im guessing is 505mm for the 3rd radii. These are shown by the red lines in the centre of the track pieces.
For example the green & white track sections leading into the points on the 34 inch(?) base board between the fiddle yard and helix and the start of your reverse loop, the 'S' section in orange & white coming off the points. The red lines on the track centers show these curves are all tighter than your specified minimum radius set in AnyRail. These could be as tight as 2nd radii. You'd have to change and reduce whatever your minimum radius is set to in AR and see at what point the centre red lines disappear to confirm this.
Of course if trains already run through these sections without issues, you dont have any probs. HTH!
In the plans for Chadwick, Anyrail's minimum radius is set to 24". Yes there are some sections flagged at less than that but generally the difference is fairly small. And as you might have noticed, as the client and construction manager, Charlie is free to adjust the "as built" to allow slightly more generous curves if he feels they are necessary. The positioning of the point that is the diverge for the reversing loop and the outer track of the helix being an example.
Unlike some builders, Charlie doesn't printout a full scale copy of the plan, stick it down on the baseboard and then position track exactly where it is shown on the plan. I think the only part that has needed to be built *exactly* to plan is board 5 where the two ladders of points for the storage yards had to be accurately positioned to get 12 of the fourteen points lined up with the other two points on boards 4 and 6. The points on boards 6 and 4 had to start 295mm before the board edge and the straights between each point in the ladder needed to be 60mm long
Thanks TFF, I do appreciate your comment regarding the any rail curves.
However, what I do find is when you lay the track, the track seems to find its own way. It might sound odd but it kind of works. Regards Charlie
Excellent as always Charlie! When you had the HST on the first loop I was willing you to try reversing it off again to see if it would work - but you didn't! (not on camera anyway!). Would it have worked? On re-railers I had something like that with my Tri-Ang set back in the 1960s although that was a long thin plastic thing that you slide a coach down onto a rail - come to think about it, that was actually called a "Railer" not a re-railer. I just checked and it was called a T-251 Railer and as you might expect, there are some used 1960s ones STILL for sale on eBay!! What an age we live in. Thanks again.
Great comment Alan. Yes, rest assured the HST did reverse out perfectly back into the Findlay yard. The Railer is made by Hornby and it is a R620. Regards Charlie
Love these helix's. Didnt quite understand the weight problem thing with S,curves
I think it's a combination of things: carriages on a curve will always be trying to take the shortest possible (i.e. straight) path but the wheel flanges and centrifugal force combine to keep them on the (curved) tracks. Having weight at the rear of a train has a braking effect which means that lighter stock at the front will get an even stronger sideways force on them when on a curve. When passing over an 's' curve, the centrifugal force shifts sharply from one direction (sideways) to the other which creates a 'whiplash' effect which is often enough on its own to cause a derailment and when that's combined with braking from the rear the flanges aren't enough to keep order. There's a similar phenomenon when towing a caravan (for example) - if it starts to 'snake' or wave from side to side, the solution is to speed up briefly as this pulls everything back into line again, at which point braking will work. Or not. Hopefully someone else can confirm or explain!
That’s an excellent explanation from Mike. Regards Charlie
I forgot that there's also the issue of Camber or Cant - where we bank up track on the outside of curves to help counteract centrifugal force. A sudden change in camber as the 's' bend is negotiated will also cause problems.
Magnificent work, something of a shame it will all be hidden away.
It might just remain in perfect view mate. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie Wow, Great video, I think this is the 'definative how to' video for building Helices, although I haven't seen your previous ones (114 was it?). The maths part still scrambles my brain but if I ever get round to building a helix, I know where to come now. Thanks again.
It’s just a matter of time Peter, you know you want one! Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie my 12 x 6 layout is nearly complete and I put droppers on every piece of track (overkill yes) BUT I had 2 suspension bridges so droppers like your helix would look messy. I soldered bridging links on the rails just outside the fishplates just to be safe. Yes you can see them if you look but better than searching for bad fishplate connections later. Watch all your vids Brilliant Thanks
I’m so pleased that you joyed it Clive. I do hope that your bridges look nice. Regards Charlie
Interesting as ever, Charlie. I wouldn't have the skill, patience, or inclination to build a helix. I did stay awake right to the end of your video though - honest. Good tip about checking fishplates are connected properly and using those largish screws to avoid sleeper deformation.
I see you plan to have a TMD above said helix. I was at Whatley yesterday and the depot there is very modelable.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Peter and thanks for the TMD tip. Regards Charlie
Watching you build the helix I wondered could you use the peices of all thread for power transfer to the rails?
Yes it definitely an option but one that never occurred to me. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie
Been quiet this fortnight.
Hope you are ok.
Heard about your weather.
Bit worried about you and your family
Howard
Rest assured Howard, things are fine here.
There is a delay on the video, due to the narrator requesting another edit! Regards Charlie
Charlie, I understand that UK is having dangerous heat problems. Please be careful. We don't want to lose you.
I live at an elevation of 6800 feet above sea level so I don't get as much heat.
Greetings from Colorado Springs.
Yes it is a bit of a worry Dave, it looks like our higher temperature records will certainly be broken in the next few days. Regards Charlie
Yet another informative and invaluable video Mr Bishop. So .....you have at least 2 friends ....impressive :) I have never used Gorilla Wood Glue because I am an Evostick man but I think it is worth pointing out to viewers that generic Gorilla glue expands upon curing (A bit like expanding foam) and that would obviously disturb the levelling of the helix baseboards. Stay safe mate, see you in due course
Thanks Roger, I never knew about the original gorilla glue. Every day is a school day with us. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway I only found out about this because I have a friend who is a joiner....yes...I also have more than one friend ;) Apparently the glue knocks their crafted work out of kilter as it expands and they do not like it. I have seen evidence of this and it is not just an urban myth....As you often say my friend, we live and we learn. Take care Charlie, love to you all x
The Dos and Don'ts of Building a Helix
Chapter One - Don't
Epilogue
;-) I have to hand it to you, Charlie. You've built two fairly tall helices to date, and you still like model railroading. Good show!
For layouts with wide temperature variances & debilitating summer heat, I think heating an entire room for hours in winter with high wattage plug-in heaters (& working in your skivvies😶) is pretty expensive. I should think a couple used or cheap electric blankets would be better - one to fold over track sections, and another to warm the work area. Heating only what's needed should be far less expensive when it's not subarctic out.
An interesting option Frank, and one I hadn’t thought about. Regards Charlie
Excellent video once again Charlie, that maths makes my head pound though! I think I’ll stick with my little end to end design! Can’t wait to see your trains running with both helix in action. Keep up the great work!
Thanks Gary, I’m so pleased that you found the video interesting even though maths isn’t our strong point.
Regards Charlie
The plural of helix is theylik, btw.
Thanks for that Charlie. As a thought, regarding end and start of loop joins so that if (heavan help you) you have to dismantle any of it, instead of using fishplates leave a small gap and maybe solder a wire across them for continuity? Just a thought!
Regards
Terry
No Terry, I couldn’t take the risk. Regards Charlie
Great stuff, Charlie, what a good job. It strikes me that assuming the vertical heights between levels are constant at every vertical bar, couldn't you use tubes of the appropriate length as spacers and secure the tops only with nuts to avoid all that nut twiddling?
Yes you’re dead right John, using a jig does make things somewhat easier. However, I won’t be tightening up those nuts until I get trains running constantly in a satisfactory condition on the inclines. Regards Charlie