I have always tightened sump bolts from the inside towards the outside like cylinder head bolts to ensure that any "excess" metal is pushed outwards towards the corners rather than becoming trapped in the middle like a tiny bump or wave which then encourages leaks. It's probably fine not to bother but it does seem to make sense.
Great work Elin.. I did have a rant at the screen, but only because you gave me a prompt. Thinking about the oil and it's circulating system prompted me to check my own oil pressure, or in this case 'blood'. 150/90 would be good if I was a performance engine, but maybe I need to stop ranting at the screen, take my foot off the gas and lower it a bit eh !..
Yes...I put a new oil pump in my Vauxhall Viva and when I cranked the new engine over on the starter motor with the sparking plugs out, I could not get any oil pressure. I took the oil filter off and pumped oil down the centre oil gallery which went directly to the oil pump and then replaced the oil filter. After that I got good oil pressure in the engine. I don't think the "dry" pump could pump oil.
I agree. There are some engines, even modern ones, where a dry oil pump will struggle to develop sufficient initial suction to start proper pumping. I don't know if the TR6 engine is prone to this but I usually put some oil or grease in there just to help it start.
You are right. To be honest, I forgot. But I am planig to prime the oil system before starting the engine. If it doesn't build pressure while priming it I will figure out how to lubricate it.
Most TR6 engines had double valve springs but I think a few engines in the middle years had single valve springs. My white UK 72-73 TR6 had single valve springs as well. I think it gives a range of engine numbers in the factory shop manual showing single or double springs.
HI Elin! I watch all your videos and have to say I am learning by my mistakes, so find all invaluable and much appreciate all the information. Would you beable to comment on your views on converting a cylinder head to run on unleaded petrol please?
Elin, watch the torque settings. You know a lot more about these engines than me but I had three TR6 manuals and they all seemed to have different torque settings. I used the Triumph manual settings which were the highest and when I was torquing the rocker shaft to head bolts down a thread stripped. I thought the setting was a bit high but I trusted the Triumph manual. After the thread stripped I used the Haynes values instead. I recall that when tightening the flywheel to crankshaft bolts to the Triumph manual settings, I felt the bolts starting to go "elastic". I backed the torques off and nothing broke. Again I used the Haynes values after that. I mention this since my gut feeling told me that the head bolt torque that you used , 60 ft pounds I think, seemed to be way higher than I would have liked. I pass this on as an FYI. What do you think ?
The early heads use inly one spring per valve. The later ones have two. You can see the double spring setup in my 1975 TR6 engine rebuild videos. There is a playlist on my channel.
It looks beautiful! So simple, yet not to be rushed! The key to engine building is to plan, think, and then do. Too many get that order backwards!
I have always tightened sump bolts from the inside towards the outside like cylinder head bolts to ensure that any "excess" metal is pushed outwards towards the corners rather than becoming trapped in the middle like a tiny bump or wave which then encourages leaks. It's probably fine not to bother but it does seem to make sense.
Yes it makes sense. I never thought of that
Can't wait to see it run!
Great work Elin.. I did have a rant at the screen, but only because you gave me a prompt. Thinking about the oil and it's circulating system prompted me to check my own oil pressure, or in this case 'blood'. 150/90 would be good if I was a performance engine, but maybe I need to stop ranting at the screen, take my foot off the gas and lower it a bit eh !..
Hey! Happy birthday Elin! Keep your good work!
Thank you!
This is getting exciting 👌
Elin, I noticed you didn’t put lube or light grease in the oil pump to help promote suction during initial priming. Do you find that is not necessary?
Yes...I put a new oil pump in my Vauxhall Viva and when I cranked the new engine over on the starter motor with the sparking plugs out, I could not get any oil pressure. I took the oil filter off and pumped oil down the centre oil gallery which went directly to the oil pump and then replaced the oil filter. After that I got good oil pressure in the engine. I don't think the "dry" pump could pump oil.
Vaseline works well. It won’t run out like oil
I agree. There are some engines, even modern ones, where a dry oil pump will struggle to develop sufficient initial suction to start proper pumping. I don't know if the TR6 engine is prone to this but I usually put some oil or grease in there just to help it start.
You are right. To be honest, I forgot. But I am planig to prime the oil system before starting the engine. If it doesn't build pressure while priming it I will figure out how to lubricate it.
@@RustyBeauties you might be able to pour some oil or lube down the pickup tube, just to get a bit into the rotors.
Most TR6 engines had double valve springs but I think a few engines in the middle years had single valve springs. My white UK 72-73 TR6 had single valve springs as well. I think it gives a range of engine numbers in the factory shop manual showing single or double springs.
HI Elin! I watch all your videos and have to say I am learning by my mistakes, so find all invaluable and much appreciate all the information. Would you beable to comment on your views on converting a cylinder head to run on unleaded petrol please?
You needed that gasket problem like you needed a hole in in your head! 😁
Elin, watch the torque settings. You know a lot more about these engines than me but I had three TR6 manuals and they all seemed to have different torque settings. I used the Triumph manual settings which were the highest and when I was torquing the rocker shaft to head bolts down a thread stripped. I thought the setting was a bit high but I trusted the Triumph manual. After the thread stripped I used the Haynes values instead. I recall that when tightening the flywheel to crankshaft bolts to the Triumph manual settings, I felt the bolts starting to go "elastic". I backed the torques off and nothing broke. Again I used the Haynes values after that. I mention this since my gut feeling told me that the head bolt torque that you used , 60 ft pounds I think, seemed to be way higher than I would have liked. I pass this on as an FYI. What do you think ?
I actually used 80ft/lbs on the head bolts. I went up to 60 first and then 80. I've always used the Bentley manual and all torques make sense to me.
What do you meen you only have a single spring set ??
The early heads use inly one spring per valve. The later ones have two. You can see the double spring setup in my 1975 TR6 engine rebuild videos. There is a playlist on my channel.