London Savile Row Walking Tour | Huntsman v Henry Poole v Anderson & Sheppard House Style Comparison
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What Makes A Savile Row Tailor Unique? Join Kirby Allison as we explore the house styles of Savile Row's most-important and famous bespoke tailoring houses, as well as the only shoemaker located on the Row. These firms are synonymous with elegance and class and have been serving the sartorial needs of royalty, heads of states, industrialists, and the well-dressed for the better part of a century. Now you can join Kirby as we are invited inside to meet with the titans of bespoke tailoring, from Huntsman, Chittleborough & Morgan, Gaziano & Girling, Henry Poole, and Anderson & Sheppard. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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The classic menswear scene has been screaming out for content such as yours and this is one of your greatest videos to date Kirby, Congratulations!
Thanks! We're really trying our best to bring great content to TH-cam! Really hope that this video blows up because we put so much work into it! Please share and comment!
Kirby Allison I think in time it will. An honest suggestion too would be another walk tour of Italian, France streets. Another idea is a comparison video of all three styles with shop visits across the board. This video is superb.
I know. Once I realized that this is essentially a shirt documentary, but it isn't made by a journalist- Kirby is a clothing professional and can interview these Craftsmen really well.
I mentioned this video to my tailor and he had me send it to him. He loves clothing and its roots (he specializes in 30's and 40's).
I imagine he'll share it with enthusiast customers to increase their appreciation of beautiful clothes
I agree, I thought Kirby did an excellent job interviewing these guys and getting them to describe and explain what they do.
Good
Joe Morgan is so friendly and engaging - his segment was my personal highlight.
Intersting how feminine his suit is though. It wouldn't look amiss on a woman. It reminded me of the New Romantic era like Boy George.
Same here, no doubt that of the tailoring on display that he'd be my go to. The suit you get from him would be more a collaborative effort, you could colour outside the lines a little and he would accommodate you and expand on it, rather than rein you in to the more traditional house values on the suits metrics as I suspect many of the others would.
I now have a new bucket list entry: chill out with Joe Morgan for a couple hours and get him to tailor me up a seriously sick suit ;)
An evening with Joe Morgan talking about history, skill and a few stories would be an event I'd live to attend. The gentleman's manner has you at ease to listen and learn as even though the screen you feel you've met and known him personally.
@@Si74l0rd I agreed, I've added it to my bucket list.
Agreed. I have no doubt that all of the tailors visited are masters of their craft and create beautiful cloths but Joe was the one that made me want to go and see him
Possibly one of your best videos. A testament to your reputation and relationships with some of the best tailors in the world.
Thank you! Yes - we were really honored to be welcomed into each of these prestigious tailoring houses!
I agree. I dont wear suits nor will ever wear one but i do love learning about fashion and Kirby's channel is the only one you need for elegant traditional menswear. I've learned so much and had no idea a culture like this existed.
@@kirbyallison people are comfortable around you
Agree. Pies and pints with these gentlemen was a welcome bonus. Any merchant who doesn't have what you're looking for and recommends a competitor has confidence and integrity. That gains trust every time and earns return customers and recommendations. Nice.
There couldn’t be a greater compliment than Joe Morgan telling you that you make the world more aware and excited about bespoke tailoring Kirby. I had a vague idea about the particular housestyles on the row but this helps very much! Would it be an idea for a video to go more in depth with the regional differences in Italian tailoring?
Yes - we're looking to do some more content. We have an interview with Luca Rubinacci that discuss a little bit about Italian tailoring. But would love to go more indepth about it.
Joe Morgan is such a gem. I really admire that gentleman. He is so kind, open, and generous. His passion for the craft really shows through on their work. It is some of the best, most interesting stuff out there. Very young, very energetic, and very passionate.
Joe Morgan made me excited about his tailoring, an utterly charming man who just ensured that if I ever have the money to buy bespoke on Saville Row or Jermyn Street that it'll be his hand my money gets put in. What an enormous amount of thought and effort invested in each customer, and, what a dude! Lol.
Joe Morgan is someone who’s stories I’d like to listen to for hours. He seems so insightful and inviting
No question that Joe is someone that I could spend all day with. I've tremendously enjoyed my time with him and would encourage you to check out some of the other videos we've filmed with him.
@@kirbyallison I have already watched them all :)
HassanNajfi Joe really seems like a lovely guy. Outstanding interview with him!
The Huntsman's suits make me want to go out and buy a horse.
LOL
Not forgetting jodhpurs and riding boots!!!
Love all the tweeds and some of the 'hunting/outdoors look'
LOL
and an Aston Martin
The head cutter from Huntsman who was trained by Colin Hammick now works next Richard Anderson, Richard still creates the historic famed Huntsman cut
Kirby, great video - perhaps one of your best in terms of content, delivery, and cinematography. Joe Morgan was correct, your videos on Savile Row, the Last Makers series, or custom shirts with Wil all serve to educate. It certainly educated me. For me, the thing I take away from this and other videos is that being well dressed is NOT the same as being a dandy. That I think is the common misconception, certainly in the US. Great job. Keep it up.
I agree. There's a statue of Beau Brummell, the archetypal dandy, featured in a previous video by Kirby. I believe it's near Piccadilly Arcade and it says: "To be truly elegant one should not be noticed." I always thought it was a great quote.
I couldn't agree with you here any more. I totally reject the idea of "dandyism." This is not what a gentleman is. True, classic style is understated, subtle, and rarely overtly noticed. It doesn't jump for attention. And it is the true mark of a gentleman.
Kirby Allison I highly recommend the biography of Beau Brummell by Ian Kelly. A brilliant (and at times racy) holiday read.
To me a dandy wears clothes that don't complement each other and thus they stand out, as presumably is the idea. A well dressed gentleman however won't have vulgar two tone patent leather wingtips and absurd lapels with a tie that screams look at me. Usually with something that looks like a colourful loofah in their breast pocket.
A gentleman dresses to look like there has been thought put into it on closer inspection, but doesn't overtly stand out. Of the full length wool coats I have the majority are very anonymous in looks, but high quality materials, well made and substantial. In addition to better fitting and flattering the figure, if you were to take a closer look. Similarly with a suit, although if purchasing a bespoke suit you can do almost anything, most of the differences are fairly minor. You're more likely to have working cuffs, but nobody needs to know unless you unbutton them. Although quality is evident in the fit of a coat or suit jacket, whether or not it has a floating canvas isn't evident at first look, nor is Harris Tweed from a high street fashion store tweed, though the construction and quality is obviously far superior with the Harris, not to mention the tradition and hand crafted quality. Down to silk or bamboo socks, for the wicking effect and antibacterial benefits, or merino wool for warm and comfort, which also wicks moisture away from the foot, even though it may look like any other sock.
Then there's shoes, unless you have a keen eye you might not be able to see if a pair of shoes is welted, or whether it's a leather welt or a compressed fibreboard material, as it is in some surprisingly expensive shoes - Magnanni I'm looking at you. Similarly with the heels, are they stacked leather? Or again pressed fibreboard. Price doesn't always equal quality and looks are deceptive. But generally if you look closely the quality of the work is a higher level of craftsmanship and individuality, as you would expect from a bespoke product, or a benchmade ready to wear shoe. Tighter stitches, more detailing on the soles, a well constructed shoe with a welt, not something where the sole is cemented on. All of that holds true with high quality cowboy boots too.
A gentleman isn't gauche, he's subtle, but substantial. His seven fold tie may be plain but it could take his weight five times over in an emergency. His shoes could be worn for months after surviving a shipwreck and wading to shore. His coat, made of cashmere is six times warmer than wool even, and the multiple layers of wool in his 3 piece beneath it, would keep him warm even when soaked to the bone.
Finally a gentleman has clothes of an investment grade that can be handed down over generations if cared for and maintained. Nobody would want to inherit the clothes of the dandy. Too in your face and extroverted.
A gentleman is stylish, but not on a per season basis. His clothes are more often timeless in design and constructed by experts of their trade, to last for more than that one season, this too is true of shoes. Many brands charge hundreds without delivering on the expected quality. A shoe that comes unstitched, or where the heel cap breaks is always a shoe with less quality materials and less solid construction. Even a quality light man's moccasin style loafer will be repairable and can be refurbished to almost the original standard because of the quality of the materials used and the genius of the construction, which ensures that the whole shoe is tied together, from the footbed to the midsole and gamming to the upper to the welt to the outsole. All stitched together tight and if a sole is replaced by a skilled cobbler, of which there are less than ever sadly, the welt can be restitched by hand using the original holes, allowing the soles to be replaced many times with a single welt and beyond that replacement of the welt with a new one resewn through the original holes on the upper. Obviously this can't be done as easily or as many times with low quality materials or construction and more and more brands use cemented soles which can just open up and flop off at any time, and obviously can't bear hard use.
I guess that's one of the defining differences. A dandy in his loud polyester suit and Magnanni shoes needs to buy new clothes every season both to follow the trends, or styles they prefer, and those clothes don't have the substance to be worn for years day in and day out if necessary. The clothes of the gentleman are often constructed the same way as they were a century ago where even men doing moderately hard labour wore a suit. Those suits had to bear up to being worn every day or alternated day on day, give enough freedom of movement while following the style rules of the time but also stand up to hard work or many hours on horseback maybe, and to do it for years on end with maintenance and repair, which was enabled by the mode of construction. A fused suit is a different animal to a canvassed suit when it comes to repair or alteration. As times changed quality came down and price came down and we became more formal in our work wear in the lower classes and rarely wear, or even have a suit. Tailors that still make clothes using old methods that are tried and true and have been tested and tweaked over decades can't help but make a better product than a factory line fused jacket, but the handmade one will outlast the factory one twenty times over. So if you buy a well made timeless suit you'll be able to look good for decades and therefore it's worth the money, but it does cost. The dandy isn't as interested in the quality of construction, the subtleties of the tailoring or the tradition of the craft. With the price of shouty fashionable clothes being not all that much less these days off the shelf, ready to wear or full bespoke is worth the money for what you're getting. If you get one nice suit no matter how many years later you can get it out and look good for the occasion. When you open your wardrobe and look through the ten ted baker suits there that cumulatively cost the same, none of them will come close to the quality of something made by hand from quality materials if not the finest exotic materials, with bespoke the world is your oyster, you want an iPad pocket in your suit jacket? No problem. Two pockets for mobile phones, sized appropriately, no problem. A lining with a repeating print of your favourite artwork, no problem. All extroverted extras, but in subtle places and no matter your shape bespoke will flatter your figure.
Elegance is the name of the game - flattering you with the best silhouette possible and using good colour theory so you don't clash, observing a few "rules" of wearing a suit and you'll look like a far better prospect to men and women alike, than the gaudy fool.
The cinematography is appalling. Sorry but the colour grading is the worst I have seen on a video like this. White balance is very high, not compensated for daylight or inside. Each camera is shooting in a different colour profile making it worse in the cutting room.
Joe's the guy I want making my suit. His energy is contagious. You can tell he loves what he does.
Thank you for being a connector to this world. There was a time when clothing like this seemed unreachable and it seemed (by popular myth) that tailors would be unwelcoming to any but the aristocratic or ultra-rich. Now, I view it in the realm of possible to eventually own a garment like these. Further, the cutters seem to want to expand their patron base to open the larger world to the potential/value of owning a bespoke garment. Much appreciated for the time you take to educate and humanize (if not democratize) this world.
This is the best video on Savile Row I've seen so far. Thanks so much. As a female, I genuinely hope more houses will start to make suits for women.
This video was incredibly valuable. For someone living on the other side of the world, the details and comparisons were a great resource. Please make more content like this. Great video!
Thank you for such a wonderful video! I'm a huge fan of British tailoring, hope to get a Savile Row bespoke suit one day
Thanks, aKirill!
Get on a plane, you'll be most welcome, Sir!
Another brilliant film. I had never seriously considered investing in a bespoke suit until I started watching your channel. Now I am actively planning a trip to London to spend time on Savile Row. I enjoy your content immensely and look forward to new videos.
From a brazilian anthusiast of classic menswear, I have to thank you Kirby for this video in particular and for all you excellent content. Thank you very much!
Thanks for the great tour of Saville Row. The London shops are fascinating, love the older, historic ones best.
I like the respect shown between all the different houses and how they each have a different style.
“Why would anyone choose just seven...” I have exactly two dress shoes in my closet. A right and a left. I have to admit I’m having a good chuckle over that one.
Inc VAT $972 a pair for the ones he was looking at. $6804 to have those seven pairs of shoes in your closet
Brilliant presentation Kirby. I hope these gentlemen continue to realize the wonderful service you are performing by informing the world of their craft. Much appreciated. I know I will seek out these individuals and their respective houses to create my next garment.
Oh, my... well, after seeing all the house styles... I still can't decide! I want them all lol
All the styles they showed are just gorgeous.
For me Joe Morgan stood out, the shoulders sold me
Best walking tour to date!
It is nice to see the enthusiasm of the tailors and the joy they have in their craft. It is also good that they appreciate you shining a light on this world of craftsmanship and style. Keep up the great work!
Steve
Great video! It was really cool to see the faces of the tailors and cutters behind the famous names and to see them explain their house styles and their history. I learned a lot in this video and enjoyed watching it. Thanks, Kirby.
I very much appreciated this video and the interviews and to hear about each houses approach and style.
A wonderful educational video that neatly shows the different house styles on Savile Row. Your line of questioning gets the interviewees to open up and reveal their passion for tailoring. There is clearly a great warmth between you and the different tailors that comes across in the video. Well done.
Thank you Kirby. A hugely enjoyable and informative documentary on our fabulous Savile Row heritage. I’m delighted to have discovered this video and have learned so much. Thank you - more please!
This is a masterpiece Kirby! I enjoyed the video immensely and really enjoyed the bit at the end with the four tailors talking about their craft. From one Texan to another job well done!
Recently new to this channel. The guy loves London Town. Maybe it's the history, Victorian charm and history, architecture and so. He shows us craftsman and the gentleman side of London from the modern, less charming and upfront style of new age London.
love the white Ford Transit van sitting pretty outside Gaziano and Girling. Just in case anyone doubted this was shot in Britain ..
I really like that Anderson & Sheppard coat.... added to list of one-day soon suits...
Your content has only gotten better and more interesting recently... great work bringing this world to so many interested people Kirby! Keep it up.
Such a fun, informative video. Really enjoyed learning more about some of these timeless and iconic styles--definitely something to be respected and acknowledged. Was a pleasure watching you take a walk through history.
I have watched this video many times over the last two years to remind me that there is still civilization in the world. For a time I managed to get locked down in London and would sneak out to walk the Row and Jermyn St at dawn on Sunday.
Kirby, thank you for being there when I was in need.
Lovely walkthrough of the house styles! You’re channel is way above the rest menswear channels, thank you for this! I visited Saville Row and Jermyn street a month a go and it is a wonderful experience.
Thanks for making this. Bespoke suit fan for ten years and had to search through forums to understand the different cuts from each house.
Wonderful vid! Takes me back to when I was a boy and my father took me into Gieves & Hawkes (No.1 Saville Row) to have a sports jacket made for me.... I will do the same for my son! Thanks for the reminder to pass on the tradition. Best wishes to all from Vancouver, BC!
Kirby's work is my dream vacation.
Wow. Thank you Kirby, what a fantastic tour.
Oh darn and double darn. I was looking forward to going to Chester Barrie at the far end of Savile Row for another off the peg suit when this COVID stuff is over. But it was to close this January (2020). I know it's been 9 years since I bought a couple of suits there, but he treated me so well. An example: two years after buying a suit there I closed the car door on the buttons and tore a piece of material as well. I phoned CB in Savile Row. No problem, bring it in next time you're passing and we'll take care of you. When I did he repaired it by hand, replaced the button and tried it back on me to convince me (he knew anyway). We chatted a bit longer, I reached for my wallet and opened my mouth to ask how much. A smile and a shake of the head. Sir wasn't used to Savile Row ways yet. He let me out and wished me well. I want that again.
What is great about this video is that it explains the DIFFERENCES in the CUT of the various Saville Row tailors!
Awesome video and tour Kirby. Thank you so much. Keep up the great work.
I absolutely enjoyed the feel of going from one shop to another. Very educational, this had a crisp sensation to it. The dialogue with very master of their craft, especially Mr. Morgan, very engaging and from reading body language, the other two seem to want approval from Mr. Morgan. You can tell, he’s the one to catch in this elegant world of suit making. Thank you Kirby.
These videos are excellent, Kirby. The world of high end products and menswear can seem inaccessible and arcane. You are helping to inform a new generation of gentleman. Thank you.
Kirby, I came across Hanger Project a few years ago while searching for quality trouser hangers. I've been a fan ever since. Your videos have improved immensely and are now all so well done, interesting and informative. This particular episode may just be your best yet. Thanks for all the hard work you put into this. And thanks for teaching me how to dress and how to care for my wardrobe. Somehow I feel like you may be destined for bigger and better things, but in the meantime I'm enjoying the education. This is TH-cam at its finest.
That was a fantastic video! I just loved listening to all those knowledgeable people, very informative and entertaining.
great video. i was watching 'walking down the streets' from various cities around the world, but stayed here to enjoy the atmosphere. the windmill was an elegant touch.
Morgan said something very important about the message you're delivering. I appreciate it as well.
Another excellent video. The comparative house style expositions and illustrations very instructive and entertaining.Wonderful
These guys are in the inner elite circle...
This is your finest work yet. I’ll probably enjoy this video more than once.
I enjoy you give high end /low end advice
im new but very grateful to having more options in my life now and this channel seems to be very educational as far as looking for what spikes my interest in dressing well. thanks Kirby.
Welcome to the channel! Thank you!!
I don't have the budget for Saville row yet, however on my next day off I'm going to pop in to see if they can do me a waistcoat like he mentioned . Joe Morgan's manner and passion has really compelled me to start this journey . Thanks Kirby.
Outstanding film Kirby. You really outdid yourself this time old chap.
Absolutely incredible video. Thank you Kirby.
Grettings from Ecuador. When i lived in London, I loved to walk around Saville Road and I always wondered how would it be to get inside these beautiful houses. Thanks Kirby for these amazing video. One of your greatest videos of all. You are one of my heroes!!!
Thank you for this informative segment. We all wish there were more presentations on gentlemens' fine clothing.
Great video!
I really like the cloth of the garment that Mr Carnera used to demonstrate the Huntsman house cut. Looks a bit of a mixture of navy and grey in tweed.
We've been presented with another beautifully informative video! Thank you for bringing light into the tradition of menswear.
Bravo Kirby! This video was outstanding! Thanks for creating such enjoyable and educational content....much appreciated!!
Amazing video! I am always seeking technical information and knowledge from skilled people, as your video provides. But to see and hear them speak of their trade and each other provides so much more "valuable" content and motivation. Thank you!
Mr. Allison, what a great video! I really enjoyed watching it. I would love to see more of this kind of videos. Keep up the good work!
Thank you!
These videos are rather interesting. You provide a peak into places I never knew existed.
Thanks Kirby for another wonderful insight into bespoke tailoring. You've shown that what was once considered an arcane practice, done behind closed doors, (for others), is now within the reach of aspiration. London and Paris ...now Italy beckons.
Regards
Simply fantastic, Kirby! You let the guests do most of the talking without much intervention and it makes for brilliant content. I enjoyed every minute of the episode. Keep up great the work!
This was one of my favorite to film and certainly one of my favorite to-date! I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks Kirby for this great walking tour in London Savile Row, I enjoyed it very much, it's always a pleasure to go shopping especially there is a very beautiful selection of bespoke suits, shoes etc
love it! we can feel the good vibe!
Just found this channel, love it! Learning so many things i never knew about. The suit fittings on your other videos has real ASMR potential
That Anderson and Sheppard cut really blew me away, no wonder Astaire shopped there.
Thank you Kirby! For making beautiful content and more importantly making the highest level of menswear more accessible for all people worldwide.
Just fantastic, thank you Kirby Allison.
The last part about the apprenticeships is interesting. From my understanding, Maurice Sedwell's (who was not mentioned in the series for whatever reason) Andrew Ramroop started an academy to train tailors.
Love the video. I love the pride these men take in their craft
Bravo. Well done. Thank you as well, for introducing me to a new art. I had no idea. Just, lovely.
So enjoyable to watch. Thank you for making such a good video.
Your BEST yet, absolutely excellent and soooooooo informative
Thank you for a wonderful video. It is joy seeing things through tailors’ eyes.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Really enjoyed this video. No one else is putting out content quite like this, Kirby. Appreciate the work you and your team put into it - I know it’s difficult.
Outstanding walk and information.
One of your better videos, Kirby. Great work. Cheers!
Great video! Especially enjoyed the discussion at the end
Outstanding video Mr. Kirby, very warm and familiar touch. Hope you be able to do more videos “in situ”
Absolutely fascinating to listen to the different tailors. I was lucky enough to have a bespoke suit made in the late 1980s i was 18 by a taylor who had recieved his apprenticeship on Savile Row. I chose the cloth, the cut, the way i wanted it to look, everything. Cost me £450, which at the time was a decent amount of money but still a lot less than I'd have been charged if I'd gone to one of the many houses on the Row. It was a wonderful suit, that I've still got but unfortunately it doesnt fit these days.
Thank you for making this video! Really helped a lot with studying and understanding the beauty of menswear design. ❤️😍
Very good broadcast and so informative. Thank you
Well done Kirby and thank you!
That was really fun! Thanks for your effort that went into creating this content. Very enlightening Kirby.
Thank you, Jim! I'm thrilled you enjoyed it!
Absolutely loved it!
Great Video. I have been trying to piece this information together from individual videos from the houses. Thank You
It was a real accomplishment to be able to coordinate of these tailoring houses for a walking tour not only on the same day, but then to get cutters from each of the four major bespoke tailoring houses to join us afterwards for a casual conversation over a pint and pie at The Windmill! If you haven't seen the ending of the piece, check it out! It's the best part!!
Kirby I'd love to see videos studying the history of suitmaking and the different traditions that have led to and inform today's tailoring and silhouettes!
Fascinating.
...totally out of my wheelhouse, much respect to the craft and tradition.
I had a suit made by Anthony J. Hewitt and Jim Lovett in 1986. Unfortunately, my body has changed in 30 years.😉 Great video.
Kirby, a really well done and resourceful video! Quite top drawer. Thank you for your sartorial insights.
Great video Kirby
The tailors opened up to you because you recognised there flair and details
Superb insight into the soul of style, thank you
truly gents ! fantastic tour
This was an incredible segment, thank you.
Fascinating insight in to Saville Row. Your passion shines through and you blend in to this world seamlessly ( if you will excuse the pun) . Great work. Well done
Incredible video mr Allison, if I were to choose, I might stay with the Hutsman style or would go all the way to the C. Morgan. But no doubt that all other tailors offer incredible craft as well. Thank you once again for sharing this priceless video with us! :)
Truly a wonderful Documentary, with so many interesting aspects. Thank You.
Distinctly blueeyed Thank you!! Were you able to watch the entire thing? The ending was one of my favorites!
@@kirbyallison.I was glued, and it is important to promote craftmanship, like You do, witch surely goes toward an interesting future.
You are an excellent interviewer....you let people talk..great job...keep it up
Wonderful episode. Thank you.