Dear Brian, this video saved the day. I watched it a few times before I started, and consulted it all during the repair. I had the same problem as some of the others with the drive pulley. I used WD-40 and my impact wrench and it finally came free. I only changed the drive belt this time. I did not have to remove the deck pulleys to get the deck off of the machine, but it is a real chore to remove the deck. Again many thanks for your effort, it is a real contribution! All my very best! E
Thanks bud. I have a much older GardenWay 33” that eats belts. I gave it a new drive belt, when swapping last year’s deck drive and fell into the inverted belt pitfall. Your video solved my auto-drive issue.
Excellent video . I was apprehensive about doing this job and now I know why. After watching the video I am confident I can get it done correctly and without too many scraped knuckles. Thank you so much for this very well done video.
Very useful video. More professional and useful over what cub could have done. I followed your video and had no issues. Thank you so much for making the effort to produce such a fine production.
This video is really helpful. Thank you for taking the time to document the process! I need to do the PTO and drive belt for the 2013 model once the parts arrive!
Excellent instructional video... thanks for posting. I have this (similar) model cub cadet. Do you happen to have a video on replacing and/or adjusting the brake and transmission cables?
I loved your video. Very detailed and great visuals. I just have a huge favor. Can you please make or post a video on how to change the mower blade(s) belt? My belt broke last week and i cant find any videos on how to replace it and/or adjust the blade timing. Thank you
I have that same mower except mine is red and it's a Craftsman. I believe a company named MTD made this mower. There's also a black version of it with a Troy-bilt label on it. I saw that you had some type of modification on the grass deflector and was wonder exactly what you did. That deflector always seems to get in the way.
great video. For some reason my blade brake isnt lining up completely into the pully. It seems like it has some play in the bracket when you engage the blade and it lifts the brake 1/2 in above the center line of the pulley. The pivoting bolts for that bracket and the shouldered spacer are all tight, Kinda at a loss. Half want to bend the bracket so the brake pad falls into the center of the pulley. any help appreciated.
Is yours a cc 760 es 420 cc? asking because I have one of course and I see you showed the parts number, wanting to change my belts out also. thank you by the way.
How tight should the drive lever be (the one on the left that makes it go)? Mine seems pretty tight. Would that have any negative effect or cause excessive wear? If so, how is it adjusted?
Really excellent video. Needing to replace drive belt and doing good following your lead. Except when I got to loosening drive pulley, last step to remove the old drive belt. When I try to loosen the nut at the bottom of the drive pulley the whole engine shaft turns. How did you get that nut to loosen and keep the drive pulley from turning? Thinking of putting vise grips on the pulley. Also haven't removed deck so will have to move deck belt out of the way. Looks easy enough. But that drive pulley on the engine shaft?! Thanks for any hint you can pass along.
I have a cordless impact driver (as seen in the video) which spun it free with no problem. (And in case you are wondering, it is a standard right hand thread.) Without an impact driver, you will need to do exactly what your doing, and that is, stop the engine drive shaft from turning.
@@FlynBrian I noted that you did use the impact driver and as a result considered buying one. Didn't realize how much difference one could make. As you indicated I chose to try somehow grabbing the shaft and a pipe wrench worked well. That bolt was really tight. Needed an extension on the ratchet handle to put the leverage sufficient to break it loose. Was concerned not to bend the engine shaft at all. Again, thanks for your video. Provided much needed info as to steps to take and avoid wrecking something rather than repairing it. Without it I might have either sent it to a shop or just junked it. I spoke to a number of shops and not one suggested the problem was a worn belt. Replaced the belt, and drives like new!
This was a huge help for my Craftsman 33” walk behind (same mower just branded differently). Thank you! However, now the mower drives even when the drive lever is not engaged - the only way to stop it is to put it in neutral. Any thoughts?
This could be caused by a couple of things. First, make sure the transmission drive belt is installed with the "V" side facing outward. I talk about this at 06:20 in the video. If you closely study the routing diagram for this belt (also provided in the video) you will notice that the "V" faces the inside of the drive pulley ONLY, and the outside of all the other pulleys. If installed incorrectly, the "V" will face outward on the drive pulley (and inward on the rest) and may cause the drive pulley to grab the belt even when not engaged. Another possible cause of this is a belt that is slightly small. This can easily happen when a new belt is selected by simply matching it against another one, by eye. Because size is super-critical on this setup, best practice is to use the belt number specified by the manufacturer. Another possible cause of this is a misrouted belt. In particular, if the belt was routed outside of one of the belt keepers. Good luck and happy mowing!
@@FlynBrian Thankd again Brian! I had the belt installed inside-out. I swear I flipped it before installing, but who knows. For other folks - the narrow side should be on the stem pulley only, and the wide side of the belt should be on all the other pulleys (narrow side facing out). Flipping it fixed the issue for me.
I’m not sure if it’s at all related, but now my mower doesn’t like to make counter-clockwise turns - the rear right wheel freezes if the “drive” is not engaged. Less consistently, but the rear right wheel freezes when it’s not in neutral but not driving, with the blades engaged (I sometimes “coast” downhill rather than keeping the drive engaged). There is a metallic grinding sound (almost a loud clicking noise) when the wheel freezes, but it’s otherwise fine / not making any unusual sounds. I don’t make a lot of counter-clockwise turns when cutting my lawn, so it’s not a huge issue, but I’m not sure if this means the transmission needs work or is indicative of some other issue.
Given what was happening and looking at the diagrams for the mower and transmission, I thought it was most likely the brake. I took that apart - it was filthy, and it was clearly sticking. I simply cleaned it and put it back together, and the problem seems to be resolved. Will test it with an actual mow next week.
Brian I replaced the mower deck drive belt this afternoon. I didn't take the deck off I was able to do it with the deck on. When I put everything back together my blades were swinging around hitting the sides of the deck. I didn't mess with the blade timing belt but now the blades out of whack and causing issues. Any ideas? Everything is tight and how I had it nothing changed. Could it be the spindle assembly or is there another cheaper option or cause. Thank tou
You stated you replaced the drive belt without removing the deck. Which sounds like you didn’t remove the mower blades, either. If this is correct, and now the blades are striking the deck, I can offer no suggestions. Something would have needed to happen to the deck (damage, component failure, or both) for the blades to now hit the sides of the deck when they were not before. As far as the timing belt is concerned, it does not prevent the blades from hitting the deck. It only prevents the blades from hitting each other. A possibility exists that if you removed the blades, and then later reinstalled them, they may be installed upside-down. But even this would not cause them to strike the sides of the mower deck. Sorry, but I can offer no assistance on this.
Hi Brian, we have this same mower and our drive belt needs replaced. All of the belts we've tried seem to be too short (including the one from cub cadet). What size belt should be used on this mower?
I don't know the size of the belts. I ordered the belts directly from Cub Cadet. (P/Ns are shown in the video.) They worked perfect for me with no issues. Good luck.
Do you still have the mower? Im haveing blade belt problems where it is riding on that midle pully is cocked at an angle not sure if its sopost to be that way or not?
All of the pulleys should be in the same plane. They should not be crooked or cocked. Sounds like you may have a loose pulley mount or a pully bearing that has failed, allowing it to tilt.
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One of the BEST tutorials Ive ever watched. The best on this type of belt replacement. Thanks!
Fantastic video. Much better than anything the manufacturer could have produced. Thanks for saving us alot of trouble figuring this out.
The music choice really sends this from an A to an A+ how to guide for guide for belt replacement.
Dear Brian, this video saved the day. I watched it a few times before I started, and consulted it all during the repair. I had the same problem as some of the others with the drive pulley. I used WD-40 and my impact wrench and it finally came free. I only changed the drive belt this time. I did not have to remove the deck pulleys to get the deck off of the machine, but it is a real chore to remove the deck. Again many thanks for your effort, it is a real contribution! All my very best! E
Thanks bud. I have a much older GardenWay 33” that eats belts. I gave it a new drive belt, when swapping last year’s deck drive and fell into the inverted belt pitfall. Your video solved my auto-drive issue.
Excellent video . I was apprehensive about doing this job and now I know why. After watching the video I am confident I can get it done correctly and without too many scraped knuckles. Thank you so much for this very well done video.
What a fantastic video. Just finished changing all the belts on my Craftsman 33 inch mower. Thank you for your help.
Just had the drive belt go, and this video is awesome. Thanks for this go through on replacing the belt!!
Very useful video. More professional and useful over what cub could have done. I followed your video and had no issues. Thank you so much for making the effort to produce such a fine production.
Thanks for making this vidoe.i have the cub cadet and it sure made changing the belts easier.
Thank you for this awesome instructional video. This best explained to me what I needed to do to get my mower up and running again.
This video is really helpful. Thank you for taking the time to document the process! I need to do the PTO and drive belt for the 2013 model once the parts arrive!
Thank you for this video!!... Changing a drive belt should NOT be this difficult.
Great video! Thank you so much for putting this together! You are a lifesaver
Thank you for your effort.....
Your tutorial was of much profit to me, for I was able to replace my belts on my own....,.
Thank you sir......
Great video! Exactly what I needed to know!
Great video! What size socket is the drive pulley bolt?
Excellent instructional video... thanks for posting. I have this (similar) model cub cadet. Do you happen to have a video on replacing and/or adjusting the brake and transmission cables?
Do you happen to know the belt lengths so I can order them local? Shipping will take to long.
My tensioner for the drive belt bounces like crazy when I have the right lever engaged. Can’t figure out why.
I loved your video. Very detailed and great visuals. I just have a huge favor. Can you please make or post a video on how to change the mower blade(s) belt? My belt broke last week and i cant find any videos on how to replace it and/or adjust the blade timing. Thank you
Grand dad .. passed... left me ...big bird😂... belts seemed hard ....thank you ..sir
I have that same mower except mine is red and it's a Craftsman. I believe a company named MTD made this mower. There's also a black version of it with a Troy-bilt label on it. I saw that you had some type of modification on the grass deflector and was wonder exactly what you did. That deflector always seems to get in the way.
great video. For some reason my blade brake isnt lining up completely into the pully. It seems like it has some play in the bracket when you engage the blade and it lifts the brake 1/2 in above the center line of the pulley. The pivoting bolts for that bracket and the shouldered spacer are all tight, Kinda at a loss. Half want to bend the bracket so the brake pad falls into the center of the pulley. any help appreciated.
Is yours a cc 760 es 420 cc? asking because I have one of course and I see you showed the parts number, wanting to change my belts out also. thank you by the way.
How tight should the drive lever be (the one on the left that makes it go)? Mine seems pretty tight. Would that have any negative effect or cause excessive wear? If so, how is it adjusted?
Do we have to add grease to the transmission unit?
Really excellent video. Needing to replace drive belt and doing good following your lead. Except when I got to loosening drive pulley, last step to remove the old drive belt. When I try to loosen the nut at the bottom of the drive pulley the whole engine shaft turns. How did you get that nut to loosen and keep the drive pulley from turning? Thinking of putting vise grips on the pulley. Also haven't removed deck so will have to move deck belt out of the way. Looks easy enough. But that drive pulley on the engine shaft?! Thanks for any hint you can pass along.
I have a cordless impact driver (as seen in the video) which spun it free with no problem. (And in case you are wondering, it is a standard right hand thread.) Without an impact driver, you will need to do exactly what your doing, and that is, stop the engine drive shaft from turning.
@@FlynBrian I noted that you did use the impact driver and as a result considered buying one. Didn't realize how much difference one could make. As you indicated I chose to try somehow grabbing the shaft and a pipe wrench worked well. That bolt was really tight. Needed an extension on the ratchet handle to put the leverage sufficient to break it loose. Was concerned not to bend the engine shaft at all. Again, thanks for your video. Provided much needed info as to steps to take and avoid wrecking something rather than repairing it. Without it I might have either sent it to a shop or just junked it. I spoke to a number of shops and not one suggested the problem was a worn belt. Replaced the belt, and drives like new!
Hello, could you tell me what kind of roller you installed? Part number and where to buy would be great. Great video thank you.
th-cam.com/video/w1UPrZUi7Kg/w-d-xo.html
How do you get it under the metal part on the pulley that's closest to the deck?
This was a huge help for my Craftsman 33” walk behind (same mower just branded differently). Thank you! However, now the mower drives even when the drive lever is not engaged - the only way to stop it is to put it in neutral. Any thoughts?
This could be caused by a couple of things. First, make sure the transmission drive belt is installed with the "V" side facing outward. I talk about this at 06:20 in the video. If you closely study the routing diagram for this belt (also provided in the video) you will notice that the "V" faces the inside of the drive pulley ONLY, and the outside of all the other pulleys. If installed incorrectly, the "V" will face outward on the drive pulley (and inward on the rest) and may cause the drive pulley to grab the belt even when not engaged. Another possible cause of this is a belt that is slightly small. This can easily happen when a new belt is selected by simply matching it against another one, by eye. Because size is super-critical on this setup, best practice is to use the belt number specified by the manufacturer. Another possible cause of this is a misrouted belt. In particular, if the belt was routed outside of one of the belt keepers. Good luck and happy mowing!
@@FlynBrian Thankd again Brian! I had the belt installed inside-out. I swear I flipped it before installing, but who knows. For other folks - the narrow side should be on the stem pulley only, and the wide side of the belt should be on all the other pulleys (narrow side facing out). Flipping it fixed the issue for me.
I’m not sure if it’s at all related, but now my mower doesn’t like to make counter-clockwise turns - the rear right wheel freezes if the “drive” is not engaged. Less consistently, but the rear right wheel freezes when it’s not in neutral but not driving, with the blades engaged (I sometimes “coast” downhill rather than keeping the drive engaged). There is a metallic grinding sound (almost a loud clicking noise) when the wheel freezes, but it’s otherwise fine / not making any unusual sounds. I don’t make a lot of counter-clockwise turns when cutting my lawn, so it’s not a huge issue, but I’m not sure if this means the transmission needs work or is indicative of some other issue.
Given what was happening and looking at the diagrams for the mower and transmission, I thought it was most likely the brake. I took that apart - it was filthy, and it was clearly sticking. I simply cleaned it and put it back together, and the problem seems to be resolved. Will test it with an actual mow next week.
How do you change the drive belt can’t seem to find a tutorial
How do I replace the drive cable?
Brian I replaced the mower deck drive belt this afternoon. I didn't take the deck off I was able to do it with the deck on. When I put everything back together my blades were swinging around hitting the sides of the deck. I didn't mess with the blade timing belt but now the blades out of whack and causing issues. Any ideas? Everything is tight and how I had it nothing changed. Could it be the spindle assembly or is there another cheaper option or cause. Thank tou
You stated you replaced the drive belt without removing the deck. Which sounds like you didn’t remove the mower blades, either. If this is correct, and now the blades are striking the deck, I can offer no suggestions. Something would have needed to happen to the deck (damage, component failure, or both) for the blades to now hit the sides of the deck when they were not before. As far as the timing
belt is concerned, it does not prevent the blades from hitting the deck. It only prevents the blades from hitting each other. A possibility exists that if you removed the blades, and then later reinstalled them, they may be installed upside-down. But even this would not cause them to strike the sides of the mower deck. Sorry, but I can offer no assistance on this.
Hi Brian, we have this same mower and our drive belt needs replaced. All of the belts we've tried seem to be too short (including the one from cub cadet). What size belt should be used on this mower?
I don't know the size of the belts. I ordered the belts directly from Cub Cadet. (P/Ns are shown in the video.) They worked perfect for me with no issues. Good luck.
I replaced my 3 straight belt keepers with bolts.
Do you still have the mower? Im haveing blade belt problems where it is riding on that midle pully is cocked at an angle not sure if its sopost to be that way or not?
All of the pulleys should be in the same plane. They should not be crooked or cocked. Sounds like you may have a loose pulley mount or a pully bearing that has failed, allowing it to tilt.
Where did u order this belt I'm having trouble
www.cubcadet.com/en_US/service-and-parts
What’s the belt size or part number?
www.cubcadet.com/en_US/self-propelled-mowers/cc-800%C2%A0lawn-mower/12AE764B010.html?d=t#/s/CUT/12AE764B010///1/y
Only if you can get the video to play ▶️ ???
Michael Smith
Wow these mowers are junk. You should never have to dissemble an entire mower to replace a belt.