WHAT SEPARATES THIS GUY FROM OTHERS ON YT IS THE FACT THAT HE IS A TRUE MECHANIC NOT A PARTS CHANGER. THIS GUY IS ANALYTICAL AND WOULD HAVE BEEN SUCCESSFUL IN ANY OCCUPATION
@@joselazaro5440 I USE CAPITAL BLOCK LETTERS SO THAT PEASANTS FROM NON-INDUSTRIALIZED NATIONS AND SEMI-LITERATES CAN UNDERSTAND. MY TEACHING EXPERIENCE INDICATES THAT THE IMPOVERISHED AND THOSE WITH COGNITIVE ISSUES ARE MORE LIKELY TO RESPOND TO BLOCK LETTERS. CURIOUSLY, YOU RESPONDED...
Your videos are a god send! I'm about to graduate from the diesel program at UTI in 2 weeks and I'm just trying to learn all I can. Guys like youself are the ones who will help us new guys to get on our feet. Thank you sir, you are a gentleman and a scholar.
Your systematic thinking and doing negative checks is what differentiates a good vs a master mechanic . You never learn this in schools. It's really using your brain and logic
No! manufacture training teach you the systematic testing, this guy is simply regurgitating this training. For techs who have no manufacture training this sounds like magic. LOL
I can watch you all day and not get bored. I have learned a lot from your videos because I’m a motor t mechanic in the Marine Corps and all we work on is C-12 and C-15
Great job sir, very systematic, "MOST" back yard shade tree or half ass mechanics are NOT going to bother with actually checking these items and doing it right. Thanks for taking time to share, God bless
Had a truck driver complaining of low power on a Detroit Series 60, he was irate and telling me that Series 60s were shit, got into the cab of the truck to put it on the wheel dyno, rubbish all through the cab, a plastic milk carton tied to the gearshift that was full of cigarette butts and the smell of off food. Put the truck on the dyno and did a pull, 62% throttle was the max, checked the throttle pedal, found a chicken bone stuck under the pedal, put on gloves, removed the chicken bone, low power problem solved.
I love mechanical things and explanations on how they work and fail. Since watching the Adept Ape, I finally realized that you sound just like the Norm Macdonald. The only difference is that what you say is not a joke.
Lol! I had a operator come into the shop and said the head is cracked and truck overheating. 3126...... No Water pump belt on it..... Super videos.... Thanks much!
First let me apologize because this is not a comment on this video but due to my lack of computer savvy I'm really not sure of any other way to directly contact adept ape . I have and chasing my tail and absolutely hemorrhaging money on my MXS and after bending over $12,000 and numerous cash shops my truck it is still running as bad if not worse then before. If you read this message and wouldn't mind possibly giving me some insight on what you think problem could possibly be please email me at dbrandoncarroll@gmail.com and I can go over all of the work that has been done so far and the issue the truck continues to have. Once again I apologize for trying to contact you this way but I am in a dire situation and desperately need your help. Thank you
I worked for Caterpillar, in the 80s.had a 3408 with low power in a dump truck. Searched for a while,long while. Eventually found a dead bird in the aftercooler inlet pipe .someone had work on the truck and not sealed the pipes, so the bird made its nest in the aftercooler blocking partially. The truck was running in a open cast cement mine.
Josh, always learn when watching your videos. My 5 cylinder VW diesel (non turbo) doesn't run so good at tick over when hot. Otherwise it's a beast...a low powered, slow beast but a beast none the less!! To me it's definitely an injector issue but you mentioned a few other possibilites that I wouldn't have thought of. I like the idea of using a temperature gun on the exhaust manifold to look for a dodgy cylinder, will check mine later, can't remember if it has a 'log' exhaust manifold but lets see. Thanks again..
One of the things listed (faulty sensor) But a lot of the people who work on diesel engines often over look at the manifold pressure sensor. Pop it out. If its plugged with soot. Clean it. If its plugged badly, chances are your intake manifold needs to be cleaned too. A lot of those deposits built up are from your egr and constant long idle. Whats crazy is the cummins engines that have dpf and def systems can often regen more frequently if the manifold pressure sensor is plugged with soot. But cummins and the adept ape channel is night and day. He only deals with cat engines.
I know my bus could use an oil change. But now I should check the fuel lines with the clear tube. I have intermittent boost issues. Itll work then not then further down it works then not. Works less up hills. Thank you for the video
Great video. Do you have any colleagues in the equipment shop that you could teach to make videos like you? I'd enjoy videos like yours about Cat hydraulic and power train systems.
Hey Ape. Super informative and knowledgeable video Thank you. Haven't solved the mystery, (black smoke and powering out in 3306 330bl excavator, only once warm and operating), but feeling much better equipped to figure it out. Great music too!
We had a truck from a local scrapyard in here that had low power. Not sure who was working on it, but the history was low power, turbo replacement, not fixed, injection pump, not fixed, now the engine blows a rod out the side, they replace the engine, still low power. Now it comes to our shop, we open the hood, give it some throttle, and the intake ducting damn near collapses. We open up the air cleaner and there is so much dirt packed in there we have to pry the element out
I have a c15 no power. Checked charge air cooler replaced map boost sensors cam sensors changes turbo’s I still have nothing! Runs smooth doesn’t get hot doesn’t miss. Exhausted is clear I have good air filters. My fuel pressure is in spec as well. At this point I have no idea what it could be.
I have a c15 twin turbo bxs no codes on but when I do the flash code test I get about 7 codes I replaced all the sensor but it still gave me the flash codes. Is it a ground problem? Bad ecm? Or just needs a new wire harness? Thanks your videos have helped me out a lot.
@@arturopadilla2135 . Good day ,sorry my engine is a mercedes glk 220 cdi engine and am getting this two codes 1. P024028. The Boost Pressure Sensor For The Low-pressure Turbocharger Has A Malfunction.The Signal Offset Is Outside The Permissible Range. 2. P010628 The Intake Manifold Pressure Sensor Has A Malfunction.The Signal Offset Is Outside The Permissible Range. Have changed the both sensors and it's still same. Thanks, Hoping to hear from you soon.
Josh, at 13:16 you state that air leaks between the turbo and combustion chamber cause low boost pressure along with concurrent lower fuel consumption. In my experience, there has been a slight increase in fuel consumption accompanied by with a slight increase in particulate matter, as the decrease in air entering the combustion chamber adversely changes the air/fuel ratio. Then again, I've seen similar air leaks not impact fuel mileage or exhaust smoke characteristics. Now, could an ECM, sensing low air manifold pressure, derate the engine?
First of all, I would like to thank you for your help I have a problem with the generator, as the turbo loads 50% Replace the nozzles and adjust the valve clearance I did not get any result
Talking about the chasing of strange symptoms but this was a western star with m11 Cummings same thing warm up periodically engine would fall on face. A couple mechanics tried to figure it out to no avail. Next mechanic a good friend of mine tested the usual. Mine you this truck was being fabricated to be a log truck with Prentice loader boom. His next question was did you unhook the batteries every time they welded they say they did they thought Replacement of ecm problem solved un hook your batteries when welding a valuable lesson I learned.
Was looking at a 2006 t600 KW with a c15 with 550k on the motor is there anything to watch out for or ask about maintenance wise I see those motors up to almost 2 million
Brand new d9.c18 engine.compared to our old d9r with the 3408 this new one has 25 percent less power,can actually almost kill the engine under load.no faults.
Iv got a 05 international with c-13 assert iv been chasing an issue with no lower end power! Iv done over head and checked fuel pressure it good. So when I pulled air to air tube off on in take side I noticed there is exhaust sut in the tube and when I had it all the way off with it running it sounds like the exhaust is coming out the intake 🤷♂️. Only others thing I know I have is a manifold that is spitting at me a little? What do you think?
Now that i run a c15 nxs 07 model your videos have been a great help in learning this motor so thank and salute for your dedication to help us wanna be gearheads try and figure some of this shit out ourselves...
My ck list 1. Filters over 300 hours replace 2 ck fuel quaility 3 battery ,yes batterys load test and i torque cablez to 19 foot pounds /find a lot of lose cables and ck cables at starter 4. Air charge boot cooler clamps 12 foot pounds 5.ck inside the tank for water & thrash 6. valve lash,valve lash ,valve lash including injector setting 7. Test air to air cooler Thats my automatic checks
Hello Josh, I have a 5ek is been swamped from a Kenworth to 1996 peterbilt , and the boost it take about 1700 rpm to start going up any idea, I’ll pass by Idaho on Friday
I have a 430D. 5000+ hours. Starts up fine, idles fine, no smoke, past a small Puff on startup. just has 0 power when using loader or when driving. I HAVE to use 1st/2nd gear floored when going up any hill and I’m talking a creeping pace. Wastegate works and is in closed position. I replaced all vacuum lines, checked injector caps, checked boost collar, we replaced both fuel filters, new oil, new filter. Haven’t checked turbine shaft.
HI , I have a 1994 peterbilt with a cat 3406b 3ZJ44897. About a year and a half ago truck broke down lost a lot of power and was throwing a huge amount of white smoke. Unfortunate for me I couldn't find a cat dealer that would have time to work on it. Took it to a mechanic I met at a peterbilt store, he said he can take a look at it right away. A few mechanics mention that it could be the nozzles so I took all 6 of them to speed up the process. He said that one was bad and maybe 2 more, so I had him replace all 6. After he replace all 6 the problem was still there. He had me rebuild the fuel pump paid around $4000. Still the same problem. He checked the turbo and it was bad, he told me that he only checked one side and it looked ok. Bought a Borg Warner turbo and he install it. I was expecting the truck to run a lot better but for my surprise it was nothing close to how it was running before. It felt like it was missing power loaded, specially going up hill. I finally took it to another mechanic and he claims that the timing was retard two teeth and idle the truck down since it was idling hi. I took the truck and it did run quieter or smooth but still was lacking power. I haul aggregates with a 22 foot dump trailer so a lot of times its on site work and hardly drive on highways. So it takes me a while before I can run loaded on hills or expressways. Any ways I took it to Peterbilt cause they had a cat teacher over there. And again they claim the timing was off and retimed it. They replace the diaphragm and some o-rings. But I still have the same problem, its still smoking more than normal and has low power. I did notice the manifold psi has little psi on lower gears and 14 psi max on 8th 9th and 10th gears. I will check with them and see if they did a fuel pressure and vacuum test. Ask if they did a intercooler leak test. Any advice would be appreciated.
I love your videos! Ok, so I have a few questions, are you mainly a truck engine mechanic for cat or do you also work on heavy equipment? Also when you’re working on a truck, say a peterbilt or kenworth and you find a brake problem or another mechanical problem like you did in this video do you fix it or does your dealer let the customer know so they can take it to a truck shop?
"yes, you really need to check your fuel pressure. Just cracking open the valve does nothing." (paraphrased) I suppose the analogy is the doctor *stabbing* the patient with a scalpel to see if he has blood pressure, instead of using a sphygmomanometer. Sure, stabbing the patient does tell you something, its just not helpful. If the patient bleeds profusely, that means the patient has some blood pressure, and therefore is not dead. You obtain the same knowledge about your engine if you crack open the fuel pressure test valve.
Hello. Love your content. I do alot of the basic to moderate mechanic work for our company. We recently encountered a problem with our cat15 motor. Scenario goes like this. I drove it up a mountain with a lowboy on the back and it hauled it perfect. As it warmed up it starts to miss. We have had 2 different mechanics look at the issue. We have done a full service and found one of the injectors not seated properly. They have done dead cylinder tests and still the problem persist. We have pressure regulator on order as well as spring kit. Beyond that we are at a loss of what it could be. We are running wix filters also. Could those play into fuel problems? I know cat filters are king but would wix be really that bad? Thanks for your time and for content. Have learned alot from these videos.
Im moving 48,000 km with a kodiak double axle 3126 10 speed and 40,000 axles? Is it too much for the truck ? When I tow it feels ok slow but can do the job easily.
can u explain the vva bleeder screws? do they exhaust oil all the time? my c15 is pushing oil out the bleeder screws on the vva it pushes more oil out on 3-4 and 5-6 1-2 only a little bit
I have a c15 year 2002 I just fix it less than a year ago. I got the whole kit to repair it, plus head fixed. My oil pressure when idling cold 80psi hot down to 30 psi is it normal??? Thx.
I have several late 90s and early 2000 IH with DT466E motors and they all have different hp ratings from 175 to 250 hp the 175 about 195 are real dogs the turbos take awhile to really spool up but 210 to 250 hp spool up much faster but it seems like i get a upper rpm miss fire and it most always is the cam sensor going bad and if you don't change out soon it will leave you stranded its like the engine wants to shut down at certain rpms i think the fuel system is a cat system that they put into ih dt466.
I really enjoy all your videos. Have a question on a 3406C I believe it’s the partial mechanical pump it’s the cat that they made to upgrade the B but only has adjustable computer crap . But it definitely has head gasket n plate gasket is bad but 1 question is the oil pressure is to high it’s a mechanical oil pump correct what causes higher oil pressure!?
You most likely have a PEEC engine, 3406B or 3406C. Oil psi max if I recall is 88 PSI at operating temp, across the entire RPM range. Cat has two oil pumps, could have the wrong one, relief valve is sticking, somebody shimmed the oil pump.
400 lbs of pressure is insane to think about. Sounds like a fire waiting to happen. I can just picture a leaking fuel line spraying the whole engine bay within seconds.
hahahahahahahahahh common rail systems run ridiculous pressures (at least in pickup trucks) thirty thousand psi in a fuel rail. no joke its in the specs Bosch lists (they make the injection systems for ALOT of diesels),
I have a 93 c12 in a 2000 KW. RECENTLY DEVELOPED OIL IN THE EXAUST SIDE OF TURBO.AFTER REPLACING THE TURBO ,THAT CURED MOST OF IT.BUT IM STILL GETTI G A LITTLE OIL WHERE THE TURBO BOLTS TO THE EX MANIFOLD. IVE NOTICED WHEN I GO UP A HILL I CAN SMELL BURNING OIL. THIS ENGINE HAS ABOUT 350 THOUSAND MILES.AND HAS BEEN VERYWELL TAKEN CARE OF.PLENTY OF POWER. BUT I DO HAVE A MINIMAL AMOUNT OF BLOW BY.AFTER RUNNING SOME INJECTOR CLEANER THROUGH IT IT S RUNNING GREAT. ANY COMMENTS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.
Blake Pierce with the engine off? 14.7 is atmospheric pressure oh the air you breath if it's reading that while running means it's probably not working
The atmospheric pressure around here reads about 13.8, but we are a couple thousand feet in elevation. Yours sounds like it is working fine. It should read the same, whether the engine is running or not. It monitors outside air pressure.
You are an idiot! Take the filter out without the engine running and look through it with a flashlight. If you pull that dirty filter out with the engine running you will get a lot of dirt into the intake system of the engine.
We purchased a 2005 C15 acert twin turbo 550hp 1850 torque has issues accelerating slow to get going has rpms cut off @1700 truck runs like it dead has 40 to 45 pounds of boost what do you think problem is censor engine run smoothly
Most likely you have gear parameters and speed limits. VSL protection and VSL are hard limits that will not go past programming. Your lower gear parameters are soft limits. You can drive thru them but takes awhile before the ECM will allow it. Do you have your full engine serial number?
I like to tell people if they don't think they're making the power they want to have it put on a dyno that way the torque can be the same applied to the rear wheels so that they don't get it confusion over the hill or load will be consistent proving the amount of horsepower and or torque that they're able to get consistently versus hills that may change and loads
I have a 2004 379 with a c12 mbl19182 with a 10 speed and 370 rears with a complete platinum overhaul my problem is even before my over haul my truck has no power from 8th to 9th and 9th to 10th gear and my pryo gets up past 900 temp from 1st gear to 8th I’m good and it also sounds as if my jakes are on even at idle but sounds worse when running down the road I’ve changed just about everything I can think of from wire harness to a bunch of sensors and even had my ecm checked and tuned I’m lost at what to do to get it to run right
What if your getting no blow by no check engine lights . But has low boost about 20 psi pulling a hill. Also getting a lil oil in the air cooler hose connected to the turbo.
UPDATE 2; Seems that it could be temp related? As it gets up to about 180 degrees it seems like the thermosts do not want to open? UPDATE: Load related stumbling? Got her going good loaded the motorcycle on the trailer and she started to stumble again... after all below... She is doing better., but still having a hard time wanting to shift. Cat 3126E/C7 crossover engine. Apparently only 1000 made Have had it on 3 different readers. No active codes Stored codes 164-11 across all 6 cylinders,... but cylinders look good. Fuel filters have been changed. Multiple times. Actuation Pressure Sensor changed. Was good for 30 miles. Then fell flat. Checked crank sensor. Checked wastegate on turbos, because it sometimes sounds like the boost isn't kicking in... due to low power, rpm. Have cleaned and checked ground wires. Yet even after batteries died 3Xs. It has no Barometric/Atmospheric pressure Sensor. (Indiana bus in Florida) It starts, runs, drives. It'll go good until it gets to about 180 degrees.Then she starts stumbling, sluggish, no pedal/low power, won't go over 20mph, occasionally white smoke, occasionally CEL 01 idle shut down timer. Has misfired a few times. We unplugged the cruise control switches on the dash, it was the worst it ever ran, connected to 01 CEL? UPDATE; Found broken lift/transfer pump. Replaced. Now has 3 new batteries, new oil and filter and a new air filter. Still will not go over 20mph. CEL came on.
I know marine isn’t really your thing, but I have an all mechanical 6140 lugger (Komatsu block) that has a rough idle and somewhat annoying tick below 950rpm. It also blows pretty heavy black smoke at high load. Doesn’t use oil and doesn’t have blow by and still has lots of power. Mechanic has done an overhead recently. I’m thinking injectors, but maybe you have another idea?
I saw the video about putting more power into an engine with original caterpillar parts but I have an E model 2WS so I would like to put a Marine Camshaft and I’ve tried to find the part number but I haven’t t been able to find it ,is there any way you could help me?
my 3406B has 900,000mi. on the last build. had the rack adj. 70,000mi ago and it is clean as a whistle under the cover. no blow by but consumes about a gallon of oil in 10,000mi {leaks a little at both front and rear seals) is it safe to turn it up a little?
Mine runs fine until it gets warmed up and the engine bogs down. Won't accelerate over 45. Pullover, let it sit for 10 minutes. Gets back up to 60 for about 30 seconds. Then bogs back down to 45. Any ideas? Will be checking all the things you mentioned. Freightliner FL70 7.6 Cat - box truck
I have an issue that when i accelarate the motor takes its sweet time to get to a decent high rev, its a 04 isuzu diesel 4j series. Is this a common problem and are there many things that cause it? thanks for your reply.
so this engine starts good. no misses. good power. good fuel pressure. after warming all the way up, and drive 65nfor about 1/2 hour, it starts to miss and loose power. i slow down to 50 it smooth's out and power is restored. this cycle repeats itself. sometime i run 65 a short time or a little longer time before it starts to act up again. what are the possibilities?
WHAT SEPARATES THIS GUY FROM OTHERS ON YT IS THE FACT THAT HE IS A TRUE MECHANIC NOT A PARTS CHANGER. THIS GUY IS ANALYTICAL AND WOULD HAVE BEEN SUCCESSFUL IN ANY OCCUPATION
@Connor Jamie Don't do it guys, it's a scam.
Well said
Factz
Why you yelling?
@@joselazaro5440 I USE CAPITAL BLOCK LETTERS SO THAT PEASANTS FROM NON-INDUSTRIALIZED NATIONS AND SEMI-LITERATES CAN UNDERSTAND. MY TEACHING EXPERIENCE INDICATES THAT THE IMPOVERISHED AND THOSE WITH COGNITIVE ISSUES ARE MORE LIKELY TO RESPOND TO BLOCK LETTERS. CURIOUSLY, YOU RESPONDED...
This guy understands diesel engines as a system. He understands the INTERACTIONS of all the components of your application. A real mechanic.
Your videos are a god send! I'm about to graduate from the diesel program at UTI in 2 weeks and I'm just trying to learn all I can. Guys like youself are the ones who will help us new guys to get on our feet. Thank you sir, you are a gentleman and a scholar.
Your systematic thinking and doing negative checks is what differentiates a good vs a master mechanic . You never learn this in schools. It's really using your brain and logic
Thank you sir. I'm still learning like everyone else. I just have been around the Cats for awhile now.
Couldn't agree more
and dogs too judging by the outro
No! manufacture training teach you the systematic testing, this guy is simply regurgitating this training.
For techs who have no manufacture training this sounds like magic. LOL
I can watch you all day and not get bored. I have learned a lot from your videos because I’m a motor t mechanic in the Marine Corps and all we work on is C-12 and C-15
from Algeria in the Afican continent
you sir are amazing
respect
Great job sir, very systematic, "MOST" back yard shade tree or half ass mechanics are NOT going to bother with actually checking these items and doing it right. Thanks for taking time to share, God bless
All this low power talk reminds me of some detroit's we had years ago 😑 cat has my heart now 😍
Had a truck driver complaining of low power on a Detroit Series 60, he was irate and telling me that Series 60s were shit, got into the cab of the truck to put it on the wheel dyno, rubbish all through the cab, a plastic milk carton tied to the gearshift that was full of cigarette butts and the smell of off food. Put the truck on the dyno and did a pull, 62% throttle was the max, checked the throttle pedal, found a chicken bone stuck under the pedal, put on gloves, removed the chicken bone, low power problem solved.
This type of stuff you literally couldn't make up.
He was special. Lots of special people in the trucking world.
Truck drivers suck. Ever get a shifter covered in lube and pubes...i dont deal w drivers anymore
Lol that's to funny :)
thats the greatest thing i have ever " heard" you have made my day, thankyou!
I love mechanical things and explanations on how they work and fail. Since watching the Adept Ape, I finally realized that you sound just like the Norm Macdonald. The only difference is that what you say is not a joke.
This guy Is great, he had taught me so much that I really appreciate.
Lol! I had a operator come into the shop and said the head is cracked and truck overheating. 3126...... No Water pump belt on it..... Super videos.... Thanks much!
A surprisingly common fix for low power complaints is removing the bunched-up floor mat from underneath the accelerator pedal.
First let me apologize because this is not a comment on this video but due to my lack of computer savvy I'm really not sure of any other way to directly contact adept ape . I have and chasing my tail and absolutely hemorrhaging money on my MXS and after bending over $12,000 and numerous cash shops my truck it is still running as bad if not worse then before. If you read this message and wouldn't mind possibly giving me some insight on what you think problem could possibly be please email me at dbrandoncarroll@gmail.com and I can go over all of the work that has been done so far and the issue the truck continues to have. Once again I apologize for trying to contact you this way but I am in a dire situation and desperately need your help. Thank you
We've had lots of dump trucks with dragging brakes come in, and it's dirt built up under the heel of the brake pedal.
@Evermore 000
Ur right removing fllor mats under pedal make ride ugly. U should try ...
I worked for Caterpillar, in the 80s.had a 3408 with low power in a dump truck. Searched for a while,long while. Eventually found a dead bird in the aftercooler inlet pipe .someone had work on the truck and not sealed the pipes, so the bird made its nest in the aftercooler blocking partially. The truck was running in a open cast cement mine.
Congrats on 70k subscribers!! Keep up the good work!!
Josh, always learn when watching your videos. My 5 cylinder VW diesel (non turbo) doesn't run so good at tick over when hot. Otherwise it's a beast...a low powered, slow beast but a beast none the less!! To me it's definitely an injector issue but you mentioned a few other possibilites that I wouldn't have thought of. I like the idea of using a temperature gun on the exhaust manifold to look for a dodgy cylinder, will check mine later, can't remember if it has a 'log' exhaust manifold but lets see. Thanks again..
From amritsar punjab india and toronto ontario canada. Amazing videos and technical master.
One of the things listed (faulty sensor)
But a lot of the people who work on diesel engines often over look at the manifold pressure sensor.
Pop it out. If its plugged with soot. Clean it. If its plugged badly, chances are your intake manifold needs to be cleaned too. A lot of those deposits built up are from your egr and constant long idle.
Whats crazy is the cummins engines that have dpf and def systems can often regen more frequently if the manifold pressure sensor is plugged with soot.
But cummins and the adept ape channel is night and day. He only deals with cat engines.
I know my bus could use an oil change. But now I should check the fuel lines with the clear tube. I have intermittent boost issues. Itll work then not then further down it works then not. Works less up hills. Thank you for the video
Adept Ape, you are a very smart individual. Thank you for posting these videos!
Great video. Do you have any colleagues in the equipment shop that you could teach to make videos like you? I'd enjoy videos like yours about Cat hydraulic and power train systems.
The last low power complaint I had, it was discovered that the secondary fuel filter wasn’t changed in 40,000 miles 🤦🏻♂️
Hey Ape. Super informative and knowledgeable video Thank you. Haven't solved the mystery, (black smoke and powering out in 3306 330bl excavator, only once warm and operating), but feeling much better equipped to figure it out. Great music too!
Loved the Trebuchet troubleshooting analogy great stuff. Excellent video.
We had a truck from a local scrapyard in here that had low power. Not sure who was working on it, but the history was low power, turbo replacement, not fixed, injection pump, not fixed, now the engine blows a rod out the side, they replace the engine, still low power. Now it comes to our shop, we open the hood, give it some throttle, and the intake ducting damn near collapses. We open up the air cleaner and there is so much dirt packed in there we have to pry the element out
always love the destruction of the week segments
I try to keep it interesting. We got a Ford V10 locked up in the shop I'm hopeful to get some pictures of it.
Some really good information here! Confirms my CCC Progress Report theory is not totally bogus for my IHET program ahah
I have a c15 no power. Checked charge air cooler replaced map boost sensors cam sensors changes turbo’s I still have nothing! Runs smooth doesn’t get hot doesn’t miss. Exhausted is clear I have good air filters. My fuel pressure is in spec as well. At this point I have no idea what it could be.
I have a c15 twin turbo bxs no codes on but when I do the flash code test I get about 7 codes I replaced all the sensor but it still gave me the flash codes. Is it a ground problem? Bad ecm? Or just needs a new wire harness? Thanks your videos have helped me out a lot.
Your videos are gold man thank you
Thanks for your information keep going
Low engine performance caused by the driver's seat exceeding max load rating?
Lol.
hahahahahha
@@arturopadilla2135 . Good day ,sorry my engine is a mercedes glk 220 cdi engine and am getting this two codes
1. P024028. The Boost Pressure Sensor For The Low-pressure Turbocharger Has A Malfunction.The Signal Offset Is Outside The Permissible Range.
2. P010628 The Intake Manifold Pressure Sensor Has A Malfunction.The Signal Offset Is Outside The Permissible Range.
Have changed the both sensors and it's still same. Thanks, Hoping to hear from you soon.
Josh, at 13:16 you state that air leaks between the turbo and combustion chamber cause low boost pressure along with concurrent lower fuel consumption. In my experience, there has been a slight increase in fuel consumption accompanied by with a slight increase in particulate matter, as the decrease in air entering the combustion chamber adversely changes the air/fuel ratio. Then again, I've seen similar air leaks not impact fuel mileage or exhaust smoke characteristics.
Now, could an ECM, sensing low air manifold pressure, derate the engine?
I think caterpillar has missed the boat they should have this gentleman teaching the next generation for them.
7:00 or just us a trebuchet to launch the engine into a pit of lava (lol)
First of all, I would like to thank you for your help
I have a problem with the generator, as the turbo loads 50%
Replace the nozzles and adjust the valve clearance
I did not get any result
Love your videos. Helps me out tremendously. Thanks !!
great information from a great man many thanks mr.josh
Talking about the chasing of strange symptoms but this was a western star with m11 Cummings same thing warm up periodically engine would fall on face. A couple mechanics tried to figure it out to no avail. Next mechanic a good friend of mine tested the usual. Mine you this truck was being fabricated to be a log truck with Prentice loader boom. His next question was did you unhook the batteries every time they welded they say they did they thought Replacement of ecm problem solved un hook your batteries when welding a valuable lesson I learned.
Was looking at a 2006 t600 KW with a c15 with 550k on the motor is there anything to watch out for or ask about maintenance wise I see those motors up to almost 2 million
You are a very good Teacher, please how can ECM be tested without a Diagnoser .
Brand new d9.c18 engine.compared to our old d9r with the 3408 this new one has 25 percent less power,can actually almost kill the engine under load.no faults.
Iv got a 05 international with c-13 assert iv been chasing an issue with no lower end power! Iv done over head and checked fuel pressure it good. So when I pulled air to air tube off on in take side I noticed there is exhaust sut in the tube and when I had it all the way off with it running it sounds like the exhaust is coming out the intake 🤷♂️. Only others thing I know I have is a manifold that is spitting at me a little? What do you think?
Now that i run a c15 nxs 07 model your videos have been a great help in learning this motor so thank and salute for your dedication to help us wanna be gearheads try and figure some of this shit out ourselves...
Excellent, no other word would do. Thank.
Can you recommend a good Caterpillar mechanic in the area from Atlanta to Gainesville. Other than Yancy shops. Thank you.
Im marine engineer
My ck list
1. Filters over 300 hours replace
2 ck fuel quaility
3 battery ,yes batterys load test and i torque cablez to 19 foot pounds /find a lot of lose cables and ck cables at starter
4. Air charge boot cooler clamps 12 foot pounds
5.ck inside the tank for water & thrash
6. valve lash,valve lash ,valve lash including injector setting
7. Test air to air cooler
Thats my automatic checks
Great video s
I have learn a lot
Thanks
🇦🇺. Thanks for sharing your knowledge always very interesting 🔧⚙️🔩⚙️🔧⚙️
Thank you for your little wrench emojis.
Good information mate Big thumbs up 👍
Good refresher course man,, thanks...
Hello Josh, I have a 5ek is been swamped from a Kenworth to 1996 peterbilt , and the boost it take about 1700 rpm to start going up any idea, I’ll pass by Idaho on Friday
I have a 430D. 5000+ hours. Starts up fine, idles fine, no smoke, past a small Puff on startup. just has 0 power when using loader or when driving. I HAVE to use 1st/2nd gear floored when going up any hill and I’m talking a creeping pace. Wastegate works and is in closed position. I replaced all vacuum lines, checked injector caps, checked boost collar, we replaced both fuel filters, new oil, new filter. Haven’t checked turbine shaft.
HI , I have a 1994 peterbilt with a cat 3406b 3ZJ44897. About a year and a half ago truck broke down lost a lot of power and was throwing a huge amount of white smoke. Unfortunate for me I couldn't find a cat dealer that would have time to work on it. Took it to a mechanic I met at a peterbilt store, he said he can take a look at it right away. A few mechanics mention that it could be the nozzles so I took all 6 of them to speed up the process. He said that one was bad and maybe 2 more, so I had him replace all 6. After he replace all 6 the problem was still there. He had me rebuild the fuel pump paid around $4000. Still the same problem. He checked the turbo and it was bad, he told me that he only checked one side and it looked ok. Bought a Borg Warner turbo and he install it. I was expecting the truck to run a lot better but for my surprise it was nothing close to how it was running before. It felt like it was missing power loaded, specially going up hill. I finally took it to another mechanic and he claims that the timing was retard two teeth and idle the truck down since it was idling hi. I took the truck and it did run quieter or smooth but still was lacking power. I haul aggregates with a 22 foot dump trailer so a lot of times its on site work and hardly drive on highways. So it takes me a while before I can run loaded on hills or expressways. Any ways I took it to Peterbilt cause they had a cat teacher over there. And again they claim the timing was off and retimed it. They replace the diaphragm and some o-rings. But I still have the same problem, its still smoking more than normal and has low power. I did notice the manifold psi has little psi on lower gears and 14 psi max on 8th 9th and 10th gears. I will check with them and see if they did a fuel pressure and vacuum test. Ask if they did a intercooler leak test. Any advice would be appreciated.
I love your videos!
Ok, so I have a few questions, are you mainly a truck engine mechanic for cat or do you also work on heavy equipment? Also when you’re working on a truck, say a peterbilt or kenworth and you find a brake problem or another mechanical problem like you did in this video do you fix it or does your dealer let the customer know so they can take it to a truck shop?
We do chassis work as well. We will notify the customer of the problems and we will fix them usually.
Adept Ape Thanks! I’m dying to get in at a Cat dealer but most of my experience is with trucks!
. How do i bring my truck to you can you give me your shop address
Excellent checkpoints ideas! Thanks
Grate info for checking and trouble shooting even I could do this and I don't do macanics.
Why u got one side burn longer than the other ?
"yes, you really need to check your fuel pressure. Just cracking open the valve does nothing." (paraphrased)
I suppose the analogy is the doctor *stabbing* the patient with a scalpel to see if he has blood pressure, instead of using a sphygmomanometer.
Sure, stabbing the patient does tell you something, its just not helpful. If the patient bleeds profusely, that means the patient has some blood pressure, and therefore is not dead. You obtain the same knowledge about your engine if you crack open the fuel pressure test valve.
Thanks, I had a bad ECM. Engine load would only get up to 45 percent in ET while running a compressor
You are a great Mecanic thanks a lot
Hello. Love your content. I do alot of the basic to moderate mechanic work for our company. We recently encountered a problem with our cat15 motor. Scenario goes like this. I drove it up a mountain with a lowboy on the back and it hauled it perfect. As it warmed up it starts to miss. We have had 2 different mechanics look at the issue. We have done a full service and found one of the injectors not seated properly. They have done dead cylinder tests and still the problem persist. We have pressure regulator on order as well as spring kit. Beyond that we are at a loss of what it could be. We are running wix filters also. Could those play into fuel problems? I know cat filters are king but would wix be really that bad? Thanks for your time and for content. Have learned alot from these videos.
he never did answer?
Bad plugs or a crack in the distributor cap are more than likely to blame..
Distributor cap? DIesel?
@@markjennings2315 I think he's joking.
Im moving 48,000 km with a kodiak double axle 3126 10 speed and 40,000 axles? Is it too much for the truck ? When I tow it feels ok slow but can do the job easily.
can u explain the vva bleeder screws? do they exhaust oil all the time? my c15 is pushing oil out the bleeder screws on the vva it pushes more oil out on 3-4 and 5-6 1-2 only a little bit
I have a c15 year 2002 I just fix it less than a year ago. I got the whole kit to repair it, plus head fixed. My oil pressure when idling cold 80psi hot down to 30 psi is it normal??? Thx.
I have several late 90s and early 2000 IH with DT466E motors and they all have different hp ratings from 175 to 250 hp the 175 about 195 are real dogs the turbos take awhile to really spool up but 210 to 250 hp spool up much faster but it seems like i get a upper rpm miss fire and it most always is the cam sensor going bad and if you don't change out soon it will leave you stranded its like the engine wants to shut down at certain rpms i think the fuel system is a cat system that they put into ih dt466.
I been having problems with a c 15 twin turbos when I let off u can hear the turbine still spinning and it does it also loaded what do u recommend
I really enjoy all your videos. Have a question on a 3406C I believe it’s the partial mechanical pump it’s the cat that they made to upgrade the B but only has adjustable computer crap . But it definitely has head gasket n plate gasket is bad but 1 question is the oil pressure is to high it’s a mechanical oil pump correct what causes higher oil pressure!?
You most likely have a PEEC engine, 3406B or 3406C. Oil psi max if I recall is 88 PSI at operating temp, across the entire RPM range. Cat has two oil pumps, could have the wrong one, relief valve is sticking, somebody shimmed the oil pump.
400 lbs of pressure is insane to think about. Sounds like a fire waiting to happen.
I can just picture a leaking fuel line spraying the whole engine bay within seconds.
hahahahahahahahahh common rail systems run ridiculous pressures (at least in pickup trucks)
thirty thousand psi in a fuel rail. no joke its in the specs Bosch lists (they make the injection systems for ALOT of diesels),
No fires though. Diesel doesn't burn at atmospheric pressure.
Diesel must be atomized to catch on fire. Also a lot of Diesels use upwards of 20 thousand PSI.
I have a 93 c12 in a 2000 KW.
RECENTLY DEVELOPED OIL IN THE EXAUST SIDE OF TURBO.AFTER REPLACING THE TURBO ,THAT CURED MOST OF IT.BUT IM STILL GETTI G A LITTLE OIL WHERE THE TURBO BOLTS TO THE EX MANIFOLD. IVE NOTICED WHEN I GO UP A HILL I CAN SMELL BURNING OIL.
THIS ENGINE HAS ABOUT 350 THOUSAND MILES.AND HAS BEEN VERYWELL TAKEN CARE OF.PLENTY OF POWER. BUT I DO HAVE A MINIMAL AMOUNT OF BLOW BY.AFTER RUNNING SOME INJECTOR CLEANER THROUGH IT IT S RUNNING GREAT.
ANY COMMENTS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.
What is a normal reading for the atmospheric pressure sensor on a 2009 c15? I live in nc close to the ocean.. I'm getting a reading of 14.7
Blake Pierce with the engine off? 14.7 is atmospheric pressure oh the air you breath if it's reading that while running means it's probably not working
The atmospheric pressure around here reads about 13.8, but we are a couple thousand feet in elevation. Yours sounds like it is working fine. It should read the same, whether the engine is running or not. It monitors outside air pressure.
Adept Ape right lol my bad
14.8 and everyone would be able to levitate
Very nice 👍 guy very informative
you made me laugh 1:12 awesome video i still use ur videos to learn
The first thing we check is the air filter start the engine and try to pull it out of the housing if it's hard it.s plugged
You are an idiot! Take the filter out without the engine running and look through it with a
flashlight. If you pull that dirty filter out with the engine running you will get a lot of dirt into the intake system of the engine.
Thank you ❤
Cleaned it and problem fixed
We purchased a 2005 C15 acert twin turbo 550hp 1850 torque has issues accelerating slow to get going has rpms cut off @1700 truck runs like it dead has 40 to 45 pounds of boost what do you think problem is censor engine run smoothly
Most likely you have gear parameters and speed limits. VSL protection and VSL are hard limits that will not go past programming. Your lower gear parameters are soft limits. You can drive thru them but takes awhile before the ECM will allow it. Do you have your full engine serial number?
I like to tell people if they don't think they're making the power they want to have it put on a dyno that way the torque can be the same applied to the rear wheels so that they don't get it confusion over the hill or load will be consistent proving the amount of horsepower and or torque that they're able to get consistently versus hills that may change and loads
I have 2005 C15 BXS , I get more black smoke when it's rainy weather. Any thoughts?
Maybe because the air is more humid.
I have a 2004 379 with a c12 mbl19182 with a 10 speed and 370 rears with a complete platinum overhaul my problem is even before my over haul my truck has no power from 8th to 9th and 9th to 10th gear and my pryo gets up past 900 temp from 1st gear to 8th I’m good and it also sounds as if my jakes are on even at idle but sounds worse when running down the road I’ve changed just about everything I can think of from wire harness to a bunch of sensors and even had my ecm checked and tuned I’m lost at what to do to get it to run right
Hi I have Detroit serious 60 engine light on and off no power boost
5:54, it’s the little things in life that matter the most in the end. And that was before I became a mechanic.
Hey Josh, do you happen to work at the Cat dealer in Pocatello by chance?
What if your getting no blow by no check engine lights . But has low boost about 20 psi pulling a hill. Also getting a lil oil in the air cooler hose connected to the turbo.
UPDATE 2; Seems that it could be temp related? As it gets up to about 180 degrees it seems like the thermosts do not want to open?
UPDATE: Load related stumbling? Got her going good loaded the motorcycle on the trailer and she started to stumble again... after all below... She is doing better., but still having a hard time wanting to shift.
Cat 3126E/C7 crossover engine.
Apparently only 1000 made
Have had it on 3 different readers.
No active codes
Stored codes 164-11 across all 6 cylinders,... but cylinders look good.
Fuel filters have been changed. Multiple times. Actuation Pressure Sensor changed. Was good for 30 miles. Then fell flat. Checked crank sensor. Checked wastegate on turbos, because it sometimes sounds like the boost isn't kicking in... due to low power, rpm. Have cleaned and checked ground wires. Yet even after batteries died 3Xs. It has no Barometric/Atmospheric pressure Sensor. (Indiana bus in Florida)
It starts, runs, drives.
It'll go good until it gets to about 180 degrees.Then she starts stumbling, sluggish, no pedal/low power, won't go over 20mph, occasionally white smoke, occasionally CEL 01 idle shut down timer.
Has misfired a few times.
We unplugged the cruise control switches on the dash, it was the worst it ever ran, connected to 01 CEL?
UPDATE; Found broken lift/transfer pump. Replaced.
Now has 3 new batteries, new oil and filter and a new air filter.
Still will not go over 20mph. CEL came on.
Also, while parked and reving the engine got it to about 1200rpm and the CEL would come on. Also while driving this is where it doesn't want to shift.
5ek sputters under hard acceleration...or heavy load...thx
Were are you i need to take my truck to you man this really knows his $h;t.
I wish i could find a tech like him in houston tx.
I'm not near Texas, but if you email me at the email in the video description I can definitely work on your truck.
My truck lost power I turned it off pump the like little fuel air pump turn it back up again and it work well you think it could be pressure?
I know marine isn’t really your thing, but I have an all mechanical 6140 lugger (Komatsu block) that has a rough idle and somewhat annoying tick below 950rpm. It also blows pretty heavy black smoke at high load. Doesn’t use oil and doesn’t have blow by and still has lots of power. Mechanic has done an overhead recently. I’m thinking injectors, but maybe you have another idea?
Thanks I really needed this
With the engine block, can you add inner lining into it so you don't have to buy a new block if you get sidewall damage?
I saw the video about putting more power into an engine with original caterpillar parts but I have an E model 2WS so I would like to put a Marine Camshaft and I’ve tried to find the part number but I haven’t t been able to find it ,is there any way you could help me?
your e model is the best engine out there turn it up to 550 and it will pull like apro and get good fuel milage
my 3406B has 900,000mi. on the last build. had the rack adj. 70,000mi ago and it is clean as a whistle under the cover. no blow by but consumes about a gallon of oil in 10,000mi {leaks a little at both front and rear seals) is it safe to turn it up a little?
Mine runs fine until it gets warmed up and the engine bogs down. Won't accelerate over 45. Pullover, let it sit for 10 minutes. Gets back up to 60 for about 30 seconds. Then bogs back down to 45. Any ideas?
Will be checking all the things you mentioned.
Freightliner FL70 7.6 Cat - box truck
Great video! Thanks!
I have an issue that when i accelarate the motor takes its sweet time to get to a decent high rev, its a 04 isuzu diesel 4j series. Is this a common problem and are there many things that cause it?
thanks for your reply.
cat c7 two turbos failed. did Inframe no restriction on the return or feed, but somthing is causing the turbo seals to blow. any suggestions???
We got 320d2 what causes engine low power only when boom and stick is stalled, thank you
Great video
Where is your shop located?
so this engine starts good. no misses. good power. good fuel pressure. after warming all the way up, and drive 65nfor about 1/2 hour, it starts to miss and loose power. i slow down to 50 it smooth's out and power is restored. this cycle repeats itself. sometime i run 65 a short time or a little longer time before it starts to act up again. what are the possibilities?