Positioning the engine
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ค. 2024
- In this video I finally get the engine roughly into position and wrap up a few other small jobs. To do this I first weld in the gussets to support the overhanging engine mount.
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nice Acorn to Arabella shirt. Good to see fellow boat builders and TH-camrs supporting each other
I love the sense of humor you have with the critics. 👍😂😂😂😂
7:23 "... another really weird thing we do in Australia ..." really cracked me up :D
I hope that didn't sound a bit harsh, I was really just talking to that guy that annoyed me. ;)
Second that !
Stu, its common sense that nothing (almost) is permanently installed and if that guy doesn't like it he doesnt have to watch your vids:)٪
@@DangarMarine it was the perfect reply to someone who was being ridiculous.
One thing worth mentioning is that it is your boat, your money, your time, all we do is watch and back seat drive. However you arrange, or to whatever the level of finish is your business. You are extremely polite when responding to our input, and thank you for that.
Thanks Floyd.
Been a light and heavy mechanic for 18 years and always have challenged my self like you, but it only makes us better in long run and then you can proud of your achievements - if it was easy we'd probably not be what we are! love your vids mate keep up the great build cheers
Thanks Paul. I remember 20 years ago I was working on a really tough project and my boss saying, "If it was easy anyone could do it and it wouldn't be worth doing" and that's kinda stuck with me ever since.
When I worked on trawlers all we used for doing alignment was bottle jack and pinch bars... you can lift the individual corners without the whole thing swing in the air... works really well for a single handed alignment...
But I do have to say alignment is tedious and frustrating, but once it's done you can forget about the frustration and move on to the more visible and hence fulfilling jobs...
For sure, I can't wait until it is a distance memory!
Before you know it you will be chugging around the bay as proud as a peacock mate.@@DangarMarine
Hang in there mate. It actually makes the video very relatable for those of us actually working in our own boats. Mating theory with reality is always the hardest but most enlightening challenge part.
Needing a third hand, missing the right tool and keeping up the motivation. This is what is all about. Makes it all the more impressive and rewarding when the get it done.
That's it. The theory makes perfect sense, getting a 1 tonne engine to act in accordance with the theory is a different thing!
You so need to put that on a t-shirt "if you do so and it doesn't work you change it" had me crease up 😂
Can someone please make a super cut of all stu's jokes 😂
A plug for the Postman Cruise . . a great couple of hours plus a nice lunch . . a good outing on a nice day and get to see some parts of the river I'd not seen and a bit of history.
Great tip on the outboard drive shaft cleaning!
Hey, thanks for including the trouble shooting and witness marks segment in your video. A key part of mechanics!
Putting Renko on the hard long enough to properly mount and test the engine sounds like the proper plan.
And gernie all that crud off. Plenty more to grow with that floiod water.
I think so too. I can also clean the transducers, add a coat of antifoul (it's already been on six months) and wrestle with the prop. All up for a few days it will be under $1000 which I reckon will be money well spent.
@@DangarMarine Yep, hadn't even thought about cleaning the bottom, but from the one dive we've seen, she needs it. Get some beers, some mates and you can knock it all out in a few days. lol :)
@@DangarMarine BOAT = Bring On Another Thousand
@Jack Hole But if it means being able to fix the prop and get the alignment made easier it can always been tweaked when it gets back into the water.
Thank you for all you share. Honestly I had no idea what a complex task getting a motor back into a boat like this could be. Keep taking your time and being you please
I bought my parents a trip on the postman cruise. They had a great time and said the crew were great!! They highly recommend it!
I love the way you convert between imperial and metric so seamlessly. In the US metric is still a foreign language.......
Keep pushing on Stu. I’ve never had a project that goes smooth and as planned. I have enjoyed watching the series.
I don't I think I have either. Oh well, it will get there in the end!
Plan A of the hard stand sounds good, and prepping everything else before hand will give such a sense of fulfillment when you motor Renko away from the dock. All the best as always.
I totally understand that wrestling a 1t engine alone isn't fun at all. Just grab a beer and go fishing a bit. I think that most of us viewers don't mind and enjoy the video nontheless. Keep it up Stu!
Thanks mate. I've Leon coming today so I think I might make Monday a rest day.
@@DangarMarine , jou definitely should!
@@DangarMarine Don't worry and take your time! We enjoy the videos about the refit, and seeing all the steps. If we just wanted to see a finished boat, we'd go to a boat show :D
Take your time love watching the engine install.Great work and thanks
Exactly, we're pulling for you Stu.
Sounds like a good plan Stu.
Nothing beats “ leave the room and let the adults continue the conversation “😂
I came here for the boat rebuild many months ago. I am now a chicken watching person. Let that sink in. I AM NOW WATCHING CHICKENS! But, I love it, so sod off. Cheers, Stu!
Don’t worry Stu, International Procrastination Day was coming up next Thursday, just letting you know it has been postponed until further notice.
A strong man who can smile in the face of adversity. Well done Stu!
Being on the bridge allows you to reach a beer without any effort at all, great stuff Stuey getting there mate👍🏴
It's a flawless design. ;)
You've broken its back, youre the man Stu!
I like the way you think Stu, getting as much done as you can on the mooring is a solid plan. You’ve done well up to now so keep it up.
Yes us Aussies are a funny lot and do tend to change things if they don’t work out 🤔....
I am liking the plan of doing as much as I can then heading back to Fenwicks. It would give me a great change to do a few things below the waterline before going cruising as well as being nice closure given that is where it all started.
You can do it Stu!
Pretty stoked to see you working on a little outboard though
Thanks David. :)
i think your on the right path...take your time and get it right...i dont mind waiting to see it done correctly.
Keep going mate you're doing a great job. Cheers for sharing
Dragging Stu. We’ve Been waiting years. She looks amazing but we need this final mile. Cheers
If it's dragging just don't watch. I'm too over it to care.
Dangar Marine I fully understand. I will not stop watching and look foreword to the day you crank her.
A piece of engineering trivia FYI (not sure if mentioned below), the circular keyway on your propshaft is known as a scotch or dutch key. Using a pin instead of a normal rectangular section key, it's easier and cheaper to install and does the job well where the pin is being mainly used as a locking device.
Nice bit of info Matthew!
I don't know if the bolt hole pattern is the same on the engine flange as it is on the prop shaft flange. If it is, get three pins made up that fit the holes snug and put them in the prop shaft flange so they stick out a couple inches. Now you can move the engine back slowly, adjusting the up, down, side to side until the pins engage with the holes in the engine flange. This should get you close. Lock off the adjustable mounts. Move the whole engine fwd again and insert the coupler. This may be lined up enough to get the engine started and get the prop shaft turning. Once everything is free to turn...a dial indicator and and feeler gages to do the fine tuning. I think getting it roughly aligned first and bolted up temporarily to turn the prop with alignment pins may work.
Perfect video for Sunday morning with my coffee. Great job as always! 🍻
Enjoy! :)
Nice update! Things are moving along -- millimeter by agonizing millimeter!
Actually, the hardest part is to get it to move a millimeter instead of 10! :)
Lol! Man is really good that all of us experts all over the world can tell you the other expert at the other end of the world how to do this, LOL!
There's always the panel of pissed experts at a pub too I've noticed.🤣👍
Stu has such a diversity of critical thinking skills. Also a great teacher. I love how he talks you through the project. I have no skills in what he is doing except the love of knowledge and Stu’s enthusiasm makes me stay and learn more.😁
I wish I had a lot more skills when it comes to aligning engines! :)
Yep, I have complimented him on his teaching ability in the past.
oh and the (dinner plate) disks would need spigots on them so they bolt on centre, and they will have to be threaded so the bolts come in from the back so when its lined up you can take them out
YOU MAKE FUN VIDEO'S....An hello from the other side of the world here in...Kentucky USA...Thanks very much...!
Thanks mate, glad you are enjoying.
Greetings to Dangar Island folk....heavy weather salute....
I see Progress Stu, hard tasks are best completed one step at a time, Good luck Jeff in LA USA
Most of us are very familiar with that feeling of frustration that comes from endless hours struggling with something that refuses to cooperate. Quite often the tiredness and fatigue is preventing you from thinking straight and of course you want it done ASAP so you start looking for shortcuts instead of stopping what you are doing to look at the bigger picture or stepping back and giving yourself time to rethink and get a different point of view.
There are a lot of positive comments and good suggestions here but one of the best ones is to take a bit of time off and just forget about it for a couple of days. Quite often thinking hard about a problem makes it harder, when you are relaxed thinking is much easier and the solution becomes obvious.
Thanks Ian. Heading off for a day out with the Mrs today. I'm sure it will all seem more doable tomorrow. :)
Keep at it dude, we're all here with ya. Feel your pain with micro adjustments in that confined space, if only we could pass you a spanner!
Thanks mate. Finally got the coarse alignment done. Video up soon!
7:25 LOL so much shade I thought the sun had set! 👍
Keep your chin up mate, you have come so far.
Thanks mate. The final stretch is always the hardest!
You may have already put the motor in place but if not try this to move the engine without lifting use all thread rod and a piece of water pipe that the thread rod fits in and use it like a screw jack. You can cut the pipe to suit the length you need. Having one either side means you can more left or right to line up the prop shaft and the engine to with in a few thou without to much trouble. I use this alot to get heavy jobs to move only small amounts without the heavy pushing which moves suddenly and to much. Great to see the boat and how far you have come and the persons you help.
I'm heading out today so I'll see what I can find.
Loving the prevarication
Giving me lots of ways to avoid putting that tea towel hook up in the kitchen
Love these videos. We've all been in that position of putting off a job because you know it's just going to be a bundle of fun when you start it...!
It can be overwhelming at times but just set SMALL goals for the day , something you can achieve and it will be over very soon ! If you get stuck on something jump to doing something else then go back ! I honestly wish I could help and I’m sure there are thousands of people who feel the same but my jets in the shop ! Lol. Just take it easy and be cool the end is near !
Your dead right about making small achievable goals. We got a bit of electrical stuff done today which was a nice easy win. Always good to be making a bit of progress.
We use a hand pumped Hydraulic porta pack at work to finesse large blocks of steel into position on a big CNC mill.
Strikes me as a useful tool in your situation, would require an upright bit of steel to the outside and sides of the mounts to give the piston something to push against.
Pieces of wood propped against the nearest hard point would do at a pinch.
I think they are common in panel beating.
Yes, I bought one to help get the stuck rudder post out but I actually can't find it at the moment. You are right though, they are generally sold as panel beating kits.
Can’t wait to see you ship engine startup and run!
Another great video! Can’t wait to see your engine hooked up and he boat under its own power
Thanks mate.
G’day Stu don’t be so hard on yourself you helped out with the other boats and the storm, it wouldn’t be easy aligning the engine to the prop shaft and on your own you’ve made a good start. The sounder in the wheel house is in a good position a lot of trawlers have them up high, one way to fix your cables to it is to use square conduit which could fasten with screws if there is sufficient thickness near the window or use construction adhesive I used it on my boat and I used adhesive on it which I taped till it went off and it was strong, just a thought. It’s probably not a bad idea Stu in dry docking it, it would be a lot easier especially to work on the shaft . You’ll work out but so far you have done a great job on her, kind regards John
Thanks John, appreciate your kind words. I do like the idea of getting the boat in dry dock again for a couple of days to finish the alignment as well as give it a quick inspection and another coat of antifoul before heading north.
Great episode Stu! taking Renko to the hard seems to me a step in the right direction. I felt sad watching the sorry state of that beautiful sailboat, I’d be crying!
Love the T-shirt. Keep on keeping on, you’ll get there.
Good idea Stu. The wheel house could stand a chain round it, then attach the ratchet strap to the chain and PULL!
Anyway, thanks for sharing.
Putting a chain right around the wheelhouse isn't a silly idea. 👍
Or maybe even just some kind of beam between the two posts aft of the wheelhouse, which you could then wrap a chain/ratchet strap around.
That is a pretty heavy flow in that river for harboring the bigger boats.
wow, this all gets so complex. I admire your fortitude.
If you have a buddy with a machine shop, have them machine 3 pieces of 1" bar stock to the same length as the flange width. Drill and tap holes in one end of them to bolt to the prop flange. Then use a feeler gauge and adjust the motor mounts until you can't fit a .005" feeler gauge in between any of the bar stock and gearbox flange. You may even be able to turn the prop shaft using a breaker bar between the bar stock after your alignment is set.
I do feel that very precise spacers probably hold the key to moving forward.
I do feel that very precise spacers probably hold the key to moving forward.
Looks like you've got all the (good) advice you need. Thanks for the extra work to record it all. 👍🏼
One thing you must make sure you never do while welding in this situation, is earth through lifting chain or cable, just avoid any possibility
thats something like what happened on the west gate bridge, when the last span section was being joggled into place some of the connecting bolts were loosened or removed to help it slip in.
It turned out that while it was calculated that there were enough bolts to hold it all up, they were still welding the span, and the earth was going through the bolts, which over heated and bang down she went, with 19 guys on it. quick as that.
The thing is that the earthing while welding can create enough heat for the metal to lose its strength, more especially if the earthed parts are high tensile. That and earthing is unpredictable.
I did notice the earth was rightly nearby, its just something that worries me after that particular disaster.
Im not concerned the chain would break while you have the donk on it, just that its capacity is forever limited after.
Cheers
Certainly something to keep in mind!
Thanks for the explanation of the failure mode for the span of the West Gate Bridge disaster - my Dad heard the section fall from his post at GM Fishermens Bend that fateful afternoon.
That's a completely inaccurate description of why the west gate bridge span collapsed. By chance I worked for John Holland in rigging and QA during the carbon fiber strengthening project on the Westgate Upgrade 8 odd years ago. (I've got a BA with a major in religious studies so that made me qualified to do QA they thought.....) I and another rigger erected the first of the suicide barriers on the bridge. I spent plenty of time talking with engineers about why the bridge failed in the initial construction phase. The camber of 2 sections didnt align at their join so the started loosening bolts on the high section so it would lower. They loosened too many bolts and those remaining couldn't carry the load so they failed. The bolts actually started turning blue prior to failure so extreme was the tensile load on them. Welding had nothing to do with it. Google around, theres a site devoted to explaining the collapse that draws on info from the post collapse inquiry.
@@andersonsroad5161 I would have responded with "There is information around that gives a different explanation for the collapse..." there is no point in disrespecting another commenter - they did, after all prompt you to comment which was excellent you did. Thank you for pointing out that there are sites dedicated to an explanation of the collapse. I never would have thought an event so old would be detailed on the Internet. Cheers.
@@BenMitro I'm a construction worker not a social worker and am currently terminally ill with mantell cell lymphoma. If you think what I said there was blunt or offensive you live a very sheltered life. Construction is a brutal industry that's why the union here in Victoria the CFMEU is so militant. Go read about the industrial dispute during the bridge upgrade and the scab labor that got bashed. I only responded at all because I like Stuart and didnt want him being given a bum steer.
I never leave the boat on the mooring unless all 3 thru hulls are off, turn master switches off ( only bilge pumps have power and they are on separate batteries ) and I check operation of both automatic pumps. I have a sequence I do every day. I check the packing on the rudder and shaft at the end of every day as well. It takes me a few minutes, but its time well spent.
We aligned our stuff on the hard stand in Alaska. It worked out a lot better. When we splashed the boats we started them before putting in the water. We put them in and out of gear quickly to test the linkages, moved the rudder back and forth then dropped into the water. Ours were keelcooled you'll need to rig up something to pump water into your raw water pump and turn the hose on the cutlass bearing. You will need to be in the engine room when you finally get into the water to watch everything. Grab a digital thermometer and keep a close eye on your temperatures especially the stuffing box. Its better to have the box a little loose rather than too tight. Adjust the bolts one flat at a time until you get about one drip per second while underway. You should be running around 20C on the stuffing box. You're doing great, just be patient when aligning.
Thanks mate, appreciate you sharing your experiences.
@@DangarMarine Just hope it helps.
I do like that Royal Enfield shirt.
Top chicken is as much a state of mind as it is of size and power.
Thanks for the great videos I look forward to seeing them and I look forward to seeing your boat completed. Wish I could give you a hand working on it, but live in Montana USA and don’t see myself making it there anytime soon, but if you’re ever in the area you would be welcome for some beers.
Thanks mate, appreicate the offer.
You'll find it easier if you get the list off the boat, also for moving the engine we always use 4 clamps on the engine bed with some hydraulic jacks mounted horizontally between them and the engine bed, then you can move the engine quite easily and be very precise with positioning. Keep up the good work it's a sod of a job but just when you think nothing is going your way things will fall into place.
Hey mate, do you have a link to the types of clamps you put the jacks against?
@@DangarMarine We just use normal metal G Clamps on the smaller stuff it's surprising, it doesn't take that much force to move an engine horizontally, and with a 2 Ton 2000kg Hydraulic Bottle Jack on each corner it's a slow controlled but powerful shove in the right direction and their cheap as chips to buy, The last one I bought to replace one that was dropped overboard cost me about £7.60p from ebay.
Great vid as always mate. I hope everyone realises that we have actual video evidence (and my memory from January 2019) when Renko was actually running . under it's own steam All I can say is hang in there people...when all is ship shape I'm sure we will see this mighty vessel steaming up the great river once again :)
It takes a couple of guys a full day to align a coupling in ideal conditions. Take your time and get er dun! :)
Stu there are two (2) basic things to remember when trying to do any alignment, 1) The shafts being aligned must be on the same plane and this must be achieved first. Getting the flanges parallel will do this. 2) The shafts must then rotate around the same common axis. Failure to do this increases the stress on the flexible coupling causing premature wear. To bring the axis into line you can sweep around the flange ( if one shaft can rotate) with an indicator or use a straight edge and check for an even gap around the circumference of the flanges. Regardless of method you must make the same adjustment front and back (up and down, side to side) of the engine otherwise you will lose the plane. I would suggest welding 2 blocks (front and back) on each side of the engine with a tapped hole in them, this will allow side to side adjustment, the vertical is taken care of with the jacking screws. These blocks will also help when setting the flanges parallel.
Hey John, thanks for the info. With the blocks fore and aft, are you saying that the shims should be moved using those before being bolted or welded into place? By the way, I'm pinning this comment so we can all have a single place for coming up with a plan.
@@DangarMarine
You can gauge distance between flanges by installing a long a bolt through one of the flange holes (the easiest flange to turn) and adjust it to the coupler thickness minus whatever thickness of metal you want to use as a feeler gauge, then rotate the bolt to whatever clock position you want to gauge on the opposing flange.
It should also help with getting the gearbox output and prop shafts on the same plane as John was saying.
@@DangarMarine You could do that if it was all locked up, but I think the best way is to get the engine roughly positioned because there is side to side play in the mounting that was already noted (slots) .Plus it is better to get the welding out of the way before any final adjustments. Applying the pressure directly to the brackets holding the vertical adjustment screw or close by is ideal.
G'day Stu, I'm glad john put this comment in, I was going to say that a dial indicator could work and you could do it with the coupling installed. I used to do alignments on locomotive generator sets.
G'day Stu.Looks like your getting some good advice there.Slack off the stern gland, beg,borrow or steel a comealong chain unit and with a sling/rope around shaft/coupling pull forward[if bit in water doesn't have excess of marine growth][position to give clearance for rope cutter ].A few bolts full depth into coupling and a small bar against the heads should then rotate shaft[comealong slacked off first] .As mentioned ,tack on 4 plates with UNF/Fine pitch bolts to adjust engine sideways.Adjust rear of engine sideways first ,straight edge and feeler gauges against sides of couplings[or dial indicator swinging off a bracket bolted to gearbox flange, measuring side of coupling or prop shaft].Then front of engine -checking flange to flange distance [at 3 and 9 o'clock]with vernier callipers or the dial indicator.That should have unit close to sideways alignment.Next adjust rear mounts for height[straight edge/feelers etc top of flanges] get close.Then to front mounts, adjust [measure at 12 and 6 o'clock between flanges] and back to rear mounts.Like straightening up a fridge or washing machine, the final adjustment on front mounts needs to be balanced for even loading[torque wrench elbow?]as you spanner up or down.Good Luck expect 2-3 days work.If it goes according to Hoyle and winds are favourable 1 full day.It is worth the effort.Vibration,vessel speed, fuel consumption, bearing wear, shaft,coupling and gearbox life swing on a good job.Also retightening stern gland will raise/ recenter shaft marginally ,best before starting alignment.
If your gland packing is teflon based you must have a steady seawater flow [at least a drip a second] before shaft rotation[under power].Otherwise the packing expands, the drip stops and smoke escapes in a couple of minutes if not enough flow!You need someone monitoring on your trials.Anytime tightening is done,very small adjustments, monitor for an hour before another .Once the packing has bedded in you can tighten up some more.Digital thermometer is a good call.Cheers ps It's really hard putting the smoke back into equipment at sea especially electrickery stuff.Just smells like dollars!!
Thanks mate, appreciate your advice. Can't tell you how many times I've struggled to put the smoke back in to something. ;)
Doin a good job Stu👍
@7:27. some sarcasm with a touch of dry humor. I love it
Check out " the homeless firefighter " for too funny dry humor.
Hi Stu, just a little thought. Noticed you were using the crane pully on the back of the engine for support/ alignment. If you put a pully on the engine block and wire it back to the jib of the crane. It will make it lighter to crank plus give you small movements for finer adjustment on your alignment of the engine to prop. Just had storm Denis come through last night in the UK, looks like further cleanup battles ahead, second flood in less than a week.
Yes, there are definitely a few ways I could use pulleys to make life easier. Good luck with the storm.
Great job!
I know how it is Stu, you come up against a "rock and a hard place" with projects sometimes and wreck your brain attempting to accommodate all the contending factors. It will wear your tail out. You WILL get this solved.
You also described what sounded like a fair plan at the end of the video; get the engine bolted in place as best your are able, and running, but leaving the shaft disconnected until you are on shore. I know you are adverse to spending the money to beach the boat but sometimes you just gotta bite the bullet and do something you're not wanting to. She will only be on the hard's a short time... Best of luck, I have faith in you.
Thanks Dee. I think spending a bit of money getting back on the hard stand for a few days could well be worth it.
I like the idea of the socket for a feeler gauge. It definitely is something that has to be right. Good luck!
I do too. It will certainly get in my the ball park without needing to bring the flanges together.
I freakin love your sarcasm!!!!! Keep it up.
Getting close for sure. Time to get some experience help hooking the prop up and get over that hump
Hey Tim, yes, I believe a bit of pro help could be the answer to get past this particular obstacle.
Just caught the video, Hope you and Leon got a few more items done on the "to do list" for the boat. As always Stu awesome work and look forward to the next vid.
Thanks Chris, just got back from working with Leon and we now have a working starter solenoid so that's a good thing. :)
@@DangarMarine Great mate another bit done!
You could pretty easily make a new mounting bracket for the sat nav from 3 or 4mm aluminum flat bar. Just bash two legs over 90* in a vice and drill a couple holes, that way you can jigger something up without a lot of welding and effort.
Thanks for the video.
The socket feeler gauge is a great idea or maybe some kind of alignment jig. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Nice work
Tough place to work in there. As long as you are making progress, that's good. Keep being persistent.
I nice canopy cover out the back for some shade when you are ready? Deck table small BBQ? Amazing water flow there , loving the videos take care.
Like your stuff and really looking forward to when you do your first cruise with the engine running 😁😁
Keep pluggin' and keep the faith. It will come. Every tool has a hammer end. Its just a matter of finding the right metric, "Engine Alignment Made Easy" percussive slip-in socket and persuader.
Thanks Lee, will get there eventually!
Thanks for all the vids Stu,.just plod on..when you run into problems is when ya vids get really good.just seeing how you work around things .
Thanks Jason.
For the navigation display. Try making some extension brackets that are slotted in a tee shape. So you can swing the head in many directions . Front to rear of the bracket, up or down . Or as the manufacturer if they have a bracket that has a bunch of holes or slots for fine tuning position.
Take your time mate.
Another way to do it is use a bolt that just fits in the gap. Add 2 nuts to take up the remaining gap and lock the nuts together. Now you have a custom feeler gauge.
Nice idea, that might be a good way to go.
It's so hard to keep track of everything when it's been apart for a number of months. Good to see you made it through the storm well.
All the best from Canada
Keep on trucking stu your doing well, dont stress about your engine alignment, just take a look back on what youve acheived on renko and it wont seem so difficult👍 your plan for getting everything else ready before goin on the hardstand is a great idea i think.
It's an Australian water dragon. Water monitors have a long neck and small head.
It, you are dead right. I looked them up after filming that. It turns out they do like a lower body temperature too.
Mate I agree some jobs need careful consideration (& maybe a few beers while considering) so don't rush it will happen in it's own time. Also you have at least 100k of morally supporting subscribers......step back & think about it we all want to see you succeed ..... you will Ingat kuya
i agree with some of the other comments, give yourself a break for a bit , we have all been there, when caring on with a project while being fatigued will definitely cause problems one way or another, best wait until you have recuperated and then get back into it, a beer and a couple days fishing was a good suggestion,
Yes, I do tend to agree. I want to get it running but when you are so burnt out you spent 8 hours out there and get so little achieved you may as well have given yourself a day off.
@@DangarMarine i think your on the right track with getting all the running gear ready and the final stage on the hard ground, my last comment which i deleted i was trying to be funny but i suck at humour so i deleted it, anyhoo looking forward as usual to your progress, good vid as usual.
Just arrived on Dangar
Here for a few days
Might see you at club
All the best - Chris C
I'm sure you already took care of this but it may be worth mentioning anyway... For the Raymarine display, you can drill a new hole that matches the existing hole width further up the bracket. Then cut off the ends with an angle grinder. This way it's still straight, you don't need a jig and you don't need to weld anything...
That Detroit looks pretty sweet Stu! Nice work man. I'm looking to pull the trigger on a boat any day now. Like you, I'll be doing the majority of the work myself. Only thing is I'm not nearly as skilled as you are! But I've been learning from your videos for a few years now.
Unfortunately not, there are very specific mounting surfaces on the ends.
Love those glass fuel filters they are available at most auto parts stores in the carb section
Yep, they are nice and easy to get which is great.
Amazon has them.
Love your work mate!
Taking your time and making sure your happy and confident with what your doing is smart.
I like your plan for the hard stand etc.
Ps: the first time I heard those trigger shrimp under my boat I thought I had a real problem, but all good.
Keep up the good work mate.
Glenno
Thanks mate, it's get there in the end.