Better alignment and odd jobs
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 มิ.ย. 2024
- In this video I go a finer alignment of the engine, clean up the shutoff solenoid, install the battery switches, clean out the coolant overflow port and plump in the fuel lines.
If you are enjoying this channel, please consider making a donation to www.paypal.me/dangarstu or become a Patreon of Dangar Marine at / dangarmarine
T-shirts and other merchandise available at teespring.com/stores/dangar-m...
Common items used in these videos are available from my Amazon store at www.amazon.com/shop/dangarmarine
Dangar Marine is proudly sponsored by MarineEngine.com. MarineEngine.com supplies a wide variety of spare parts for many brands of outboard motors. If you are in the US, be sure to check out their online store www.marineengine.com/
All music available at soundscloud.com/dangarstu - บันเทิง
LOL... safety securing the gantry as it goes overboard.... should watch the rest of the video to see if you retrieved it :-)
Because I know a million people will ask I should mention that it actually hung up on the edge of the bulwark so I just dragged it back on deck. :)
@@DangarMarine Sure it did. hahahaha
@@DangarMarine Aren't you building the boat as a wreck recovery vessel? Seems like a perfect start...
@@DangarMarine you got lucky.
I was thinking about the zodiac getting nailed and sinking! You lucked out getting it back !!
Thanks for including the crane jumping ship on you! Fish will enjoy the new habitat. 😄
I recently ordered from MarineEngine.com. I made sure to comment on my order that I was supporting them because they support Dangar Marine.
Thanks mate, I appreciate you letting them know. :)
Stu, you have to move the adjustments in unison.If you only adjust one jack bolt at a time you are going to be chasing it. Remember you must get the plane first. Start by getting an even amount of pressure on all the jacking screws , now using your calipers set the side to side (horizontal gap) dimension on the flange, this can be done by moving your side adjustment screws that are diagonal to each other. When the dimensions are close check again that you have pressure on all your jacking screws (this can vary at this stage because you are not moving on machined mating surfaces). You can now set the vertical dimension to be equal top and bottom (this is achieved by raising or lowering the engine front to back) remember to move both jacking screws either front or back the same amount. When the dimension (gap) between the flanges is equal you are in plane.
You are now ready to bring the flanges into alignment with each other using the side adjustment and your jacking screws, if you make a vertical adjustment, it must be to all four screws, sideways adjustments must be the same front and back. The resistance then sudden movement to your adjustments is known as slip stick(friction) and exists between all moving parts to some degree. In your application when making a side adjustment I would suggest a hammer blow to the base of all four jacking screws in the direction of the intended movement.
Sorry if this is a little long winded but remember you must attain plane first and then maintain it while making alignment adjustments.
Can't help but think that it's pretty cool you don't worry too much about thieves seeing you leave all your tools/equipment onboard.
Nice progress, thanks for the video.
Hey man. I did a re-engine job on my boat a couple years ago, taking out a V8 gas and installing a 4 cylinder diesel. I can really appreciate what you are going through! Alignments are truly a test of patience! Great job on the videos and dialogue!!
Thanks Barry, I thought you made a good choice getting that petrol engine out of your boat. They can be dangerous and thirsty!
Mackay make 3/4"/19mm heater/water hoses with 90 deg bends. Part number UHB19 with 4 inch length ends UHB19-300 for 12 inch length ends.
Any parts shop worth their Coopers should be able to order.
Love the vids, keep em coming cobber.
Okay, now I’m just getting plain old excited for you! Taking your time, doing it right whenever possible, that’s one of the main reasons I watch I think. I hope the next few months go well for you.
Thanks mate. One step at a time!
Hi, you're not far away from lining up the engine now. All them little jobs have to be done anyway. can't wait for the engine to start . Great job.👍🇬🇧
ordered parts from Marineengine.com Told them I found them through your channel.Very knowledgeable and friendly people and great prices...
You're having way too much fun
I'm really enjoying the trawler videos. Can't wait until it's done though, I'm keen to see you do a bit of fishing and sunken boat recovery. Keep up the good work. 👍
"Think I'll do that.......later!" Classic
Stu I can’t believe how far you have come and I’m excited to see it fire up and go out on the open sea. I’m just putting in my new windlass. Very exciting to see your progress every week. See you next time.
Thanks mate, starting to get there now, good luck with the windlass!
Stu the quality of the videos has really gone to the next level. Putting on a clean shirt and washing the hair is over the top. Haha!!!
Barring finding a convenient off the shelf adapter, you might be able to drill out the center of the old temperature sender and run a thread tap to turn it into an adapter. I've done similar on old vehicles, and just eyeballing it on the video it looks like you'd have enough size difference to pull it off. She's coming along nicely Stu.
Missing Daffy and the girls!!! It's easy to tell that you have made your living turning wrenches in the past. I keep seeing Snap On and Blue Point logos! :-D
I've been a quality manager for 35 years. I get paid to measure very precise features. The use of that caliper on a plastic bushing was killing me till Stu mentioned that the polyflex might be flexing. Whew... thought I wasn't going to be able to stand it much longer.
Good job lining that up as best you could with what you had.
Getting so close! You are very thorough, pleasure to watch.
10:49 Love the cable tye to open an almost kinked hose.
The opening is hilarious!
interesting how the stuffing box is dry in some scenes then dripping pretty steadily in others. mood swings perhaps.
Here’s a thought. Make an alignment fixture the same thickness as the flex coupling with one o.d. same as the gear flange and the other o.d. as the prop flange. This way you won’t have the inconsistency of measurement from the pliable material of the flex coupling. You can use feeler gauges for side to side and angular. Then a straight edge for concentricity.
A little birdie suggested that it might be your birthday. If it is, many happy returns.
Thanks Paul! :)
Good to see progress Stu getting caught up while waiting for this virus to blow over. Stay safe my friend.
I knew Eddie was your only help,
Man's best spotter🐕
Putting a grease or petroleum jelly on parts as you put them in may and i say maybe dirty but in years to come when you come to try and get it off .... the reduction in the hassle factor is enormous. No grease makes a battle where the outcome is most likely to be against you. When the sh1t hits the fan you need every thing going for you. Battling a Bolt is not a happy place especially when you mutter to yourself “I wish i had lubricated this when I put it on”. A small tin and a brush is often a great tool to have ..... You need not ask how I know....I have the tee shirt as I was there....
Doing alignment is a mind game especially when its only you. Taking a step back was a brilliant move. Keep it up you are getting the things done... and can see the end.....brilliant work of holding our hand both showing and explaining everything.... even the Doh Homer moments. All this takes stamina a week away will have refreshed the batteries.and the brain. Amacf
That looks like thirsty work stu cheers mate 🍺
As another person who was about to go to bed... Stu you're awesome. Thanks for sharing your project with us :) It's nice to know cool shit is going on all over the world when you're trying to sleep
*I can't believe I call you Steve. Yes it's late
Come home from work, to unwind with Stu.
use a bottle to catch the antifreeze overflow as it will expand when it heats up and contract when it cools down . that will keep the tank full
Seeing you Wrestling with the engine was very interesting to watch and learn. Thank you!
Proper shave and a haircut... looking good Stu
Great show for us that are more A.D.H.D :) Thank you.
Show of hands please: Who did not see that gantry crane gaffe coming?BTW. I came here a couple years ago while troubleshooting a sticky steering cable. That work out well, but I've been stuck here ever since. Can't get enough. Good show Stu!
Thanks mate!
Hello from Vancouver Island, Stu if you can't find an adapter for the temp sender you may be able to drill the guts out of the old one and tap it.
Thank you Stu for the videos look forward to the new one every week, I used your tutorials since you started putting them on youtube now this boat build is golden information, so thank you for taking the time to explain everything it really helps people.
You're welcome mate. :)
One minute in and i love it...
Fair dinkum Stu, hadn't even got a minute in and was cracking up as the gantry takes a tumble and you diving for cover... lol. Was even clapping my hands as I laughed. Safety first 'yep mate... Anyway, was a great video, got a lot of little projects out of the way and bought us along for the ride. Anyway, looking forward to the next one, enjoy your time away. Cheers for now mate... ;-}
Thanks Shane. :)
New follower from the United Kingdom love watching this type of videos seeing people like you putting things back together.
Hey Mike, glad you enjoyed. :)
Great video Stu ,you may have some great fishing off the boat once you're artificial reef gets a little bigger, Eddie is great help, never has a bad day, Jeff in LA USA
I don't think I could have done it without Edd. :)
Thanks Stu. Love seeing Eddie supervising your work. Had to laugh out loud when you said “safely” but wasn’t expecting what happened next ... big guffaws. As Doug keeps telling us, Safety Third.
Did you drop the gantry crane in the drink ? Lol. On that small curved hose get a spring that the hose fits in and cut to full length of hose and insert hose into it ! Works great from letting hoses kink ! I have one on my 5 gal. lower unit gear lube filing hose ! Man you knocked out a bunch of smalls on this video ! 👍
Thanks Stuey, always good to see you making headway mate, good technique for dismantling the engine hoist-extra points for that one, don’t worry about the alignment mate you’ll get it, looking forward to the next one 👍🏴
Enjoyable as usual, thanks Stu.
Hi Stu, Giving my 10cents for what its worth, When fixing your Morse throttle and gear cables, I found over the years to check the resistance from the helm to the fuel pump that often it takes a lesser bend to give the cable an easier (less resistance) by routing it differant ways, I am sure you are well aware of that, But Morse cables have either worked fantastic , or tried to leave me with a hard throttle to open and shut off (Bugger), But I love the project, and applaud you patience, Regards Sam.
For sure, will try to keep the bend and gentle as possible.
The joys of watching your gantry go over the side... Oops comes to mind. Looks like a slack water dive is now on the day's agenda. If you want the steel back, that is...
You had fun doing the alignment I can tell. Many times I wondered if I was moving the engine the right way while doing alinements.
I'm glad my suggestion about the mounts came in handy for you.
Yes, the mounts are much better this way.
Ive been a marine mechanic for 25+ years. Ive worked in shipyards all up the West coast. I use a set of feeler blades to do prop shaft alignment . Ive never seen it done any other way (for the scenario you have).First, I make sure the couplings have no burrs or hatchet wounds anywhere on the faces or registers . I use a flat file to smooth out any ugly areas. Then I adjust the engine/gear until the male register slides into the female register of the couplings easily. At that point I'm fairly close. Also at that point you can find where the coupling faces are ROUGHLY in relation to eachother. I slide the prop shaft coupling into the gear until the flange faces touch...doesnt matter at what location YET. Then I find the tightest spot or where theres no gap between the coupling faces. I use a .005" or so blade for finding that location usually. Place the blade in between the flange faces and slide around until you find where the faces are touching. Mark that spot. The goal then is to get that spot at the 12 o'clock on the coupling flange faces. Once Ive adjusted the engine/gear to where the tightest spot between the coupling faces are as close to 12 o'clock as possible, i begin adjusting for the side to side adjustment or 3 and 9 o'clock of the fange faces. For that, I use a .010" feeler blade and place it between the coupling flange faces at 12 o'clock. That number/distance is only for reference at this stage. Next i measure coupling flange face gaps at 3 and 9 o'clock. I move the engine to attain as close to the same measurement between the coupling flange faces at 3 and 9 o'clock (or port and starboard...side to side). Once that is done, I use the adjustment on the front and rear feet to align for verticle. I use my .010" feeler blade between the 12 o'clock location of the couplings to create the minimum gap . So 12 o'clock will be at .010" and I then measure the gap at the bottom. The difference between those numbers is the actual aligment . I write that number down..for reference. I then lower the rear of the engine/gear (or raise the front) using the front and rear "feet" adjusting nuts until the measurement between the coupling flanges is as close to my .010" REFERENCE all the way around the coupling. The entire time Im checking and adjusting , I have to keep my reference distance of .010" at 12 o'clock continuously. The prop shaft will usually want to slide down and away as i keep farting around and measuring so I have to start with that everytime The reason I use a .010" blade to space the coupling flanges is because its easier to measure using that blade than a .003" or less blade even. Those thin blades flop around too much and are a pain in the ass.. Once I attain alignment to get the .010" blade to go around the coupling flanges with even feel, I slide the couplings together tight, and get a final measurement by seeing if a blade will slide anywhere in between the coupling faces. I think the rule of thumb is .001" per inch of coupling flange diameter, but dont quote me. I try to get .003" or less on EVERY alignment. Once the coupling flanges are as parallel as I can get them, I Lock her down. Then I double check the measurement again, using feeler blades (couplings tight together) and be done. The goal is ultimately is zero, but thats unnecessary. If the alignment cant be done with this proceedure theres a problem with the couplings, shaft, or the machining of the shaft and or coupling taper . It sure is easier to show someone than describe!! Good luck.
Not sure if you have seen the previous videos but the reason I am doing it this way before getting the feeler gauges out to do a proper adjustment is that the prop shaft is stuck in the cutlass bearing and be brought up to meet the gearbox metal on metal. This is all about just spinning the prop shaft to free it up before doing a more orthodox alignment.
@@DangarMarine right on man! Cool channel! Sorry I gotta screaming little kid running around me while Im trying to watch and comment at the same time!😂
I'm glad i stayed up until 1:14 AM
Hi Stu that dripping prop shaft would drive me crazy
Suggest you run the coolant overflow pipe into a plastic bottle. That way you can see if you have a problem and save any overflow as a top up when it cools down.
good content. lots of little jobs. Its the little jobs being done that will get a load off your mind
I'll have to get the list out again in the next video and start crossing things off, that's always fun. :)
Install a clear coolant expansion tank Stu. Easy to check the level without removing a cap.
Only costs lest then a six pack
But it’s under the weighty engine cover
Yes, I will look around for a suitable one.
@@DangarMarine use a land rover one or something from a car... junk yard find maybe.
@Thomas Hood I was going to say something about Lucas, the prince of darkness but I didn't want to jinx the project
For the temp sensor buy a standard npt plug that fits the engine, then drill and tap it to fit the new metric sensor
Great to see Eddie aboard!
I don't know Stu, your helper looks a bit ruff. I'm not mechanically inclined whatsoever, but I enjoy watching every video for some reason. I did learn how to remove a gantry property. 😂😂👍👍 Tell your dad hello! I lost my dad/best friend last year.
While watching had an idea that I used on my lathe for alinement of the chuck and spindle, placed a rod in the chuck and spun a point on it and then brought the spindle up to the chuck so both points meet, any variation is visible. Remove the bushing and turn up 2 plates with a 1inch pin at the centre, make both plates the same diameter as the flanges they will fit on, no need to keep measuring just look. Speaking from experience turn the power switch 90 degrees, if the top cable comes lose, it can catch and spark. Better to have both cables coming from under the deck vertical. Plus where the switches are, air tanks and heavy equipment 😫
Love the vids keep em coming.
I'll definitely take a look at the switches potential to short when I'm out there next.
Great job! Time for a Coopers!
Port Macquarie entrance is about 5 metres deep at chart datum, there's also a wreck in the middle too apparently. Gotta love online marine charts.
Bit by bit it's coming together. Thanks for sharing.
The adapter you need is 1/2 BSP, (plumbing thread) to 1/8" 27 NPT by the looks of it. It's a standard VDO part at any auto store.
If that adapter doesn't suit the another option could be to get a plug to fit the engine, then drill and tap to suit the temperature sender.
@@LegendLength Because it 'sends' a reading rather than 'senses' the reading! There is a difference, but it's quite subtle! :-)
@@LegendLength Both sensors and senders have an output, but the difference is like that of analogue and digital. One will apply a simple on/off switching, and the other will apply a variable output.
@@chrisskelhorn5727 A sender transwer directly information to a unit, say, like a fuel gauge. a sensor transwer information to a alredy programmed unit, like a ecu, if there is a difference in the programmed information the sensor pics it up and send that information to the unit, the unit responses with a code error and sometimes the engine fails to work normal. There is a lot`s of different sensors but they work almost the same. in the end of the day you can say that a sensor is also a sending unit but yes, like you say, it is a different between them.
I'll see what they have at my local auto store.
Nice haircut, hoser!
"I think I'll do that....... later", I can relate to that feeling.
Not sure how you plan to route the battery cables to the shut off switches but i think i would have mounted the switches so the connections would be horizontal (side by side) rather than vertical in case the top cable comes a bit loose and drops touching the lower cable therefore bypassing the switch. Great video and I am looking forward to the engine firing up!
Ah you're only an hr north from me in this video. Inerestingly enough I saw a wagon like yours heading north up the F3 yesterday around Erina area. We went down to Sydney on Saturday to sail on on a cruise for 1st responders (great trip) and I was showing the family where you are when going across the Hawksbury Bridge on the F3.
I wish the truck was mine, I'm still waiting for the repairs I need to get it registered.
Admirable patience displayed throughout this project, however it only highlights Johnny's shortcomings. First hiccup hide the sledgehammer.
Did you notice he said I left my spanner the wrong side and was on film reaching for a large hammer😁
you probably should put an expansion tank on the coolant overflow, easy to see the level before startup....... can't wait till she moves under her own power Stu.
Hey Stu, that radiator cap is good to use if you want to fit a 'recovery tank' to your cooling system (seal top and bottom). A reco tank makes it easier to keep an eye on your coolant level / condition, and also helps to keep the bilge dry. Just a thought.
Stu, check out the following gates molded hoses for the water manifold to exhaust manifold hose: #20618, 3/4 X 4 15/16, #19658, 3/4 X 6 13/16, #19736, 3/4 X 7 1/2. Hopefully someone near you might have one of these in stock.
You should add a coolant recovery tank to the barbed fitting on the expansion tank. Stops coolant from dumping in the bilge and keeps the expansion tank full
Belatedly, Happy Birthday to the ol' man! And congratulations for the progress on Renko!
your assistant was about the same use as mine lol good job you have a sense of humour, nearly there now you have broke the back of the work needed, just refinement and your good to go, yes im joking there is always something lol
Getting close now. :)
The notch on the temp sensor hex usually means it's a lefthanded thread. Might wanna check that before buying an adapter.
Good tip.
Well I was about to go to bed but guess I'm staying up now
Stu, you're really making some cracking progress mate! Well done you!
Thanks mate.
as a general rule when drilling metals....the harder the metal, use a slower speed with more pressure (and cutting oil)....for softer metals, use higher speeds and lighter pressure.
Thanks Stu,I still managed to give you a thumbs up even if the pigeons had a no show on this video
Stu, spin that battery disconnect 90° itll help prevent the cables from coming lose and coming in contact with each other. You want the lugs horizontal.
nice progress , good luck !
Unexpected Stu is the best kind of Stu, looks like a lot of progress was made on those little time consuming tasks.
hahaha, 45 seconds in and you've already made my day. Jeez you had good timing to step forward too
doin it Dangar style
Don't sweat the hose closing up a little on the ninety degree bend , the inner bores of the brass fittings on both ends are much more restrictive then the slight narrowing of the hose. Plus when pressurized the hose will exspand
Yes, I was thinking pretty much the same thing.
You might want to put some silicone sealant around the stems of the disconnect switches that are on the coming.
Great videos, thanks.
and some sort of protective cowl to stop falling Dive Tanks from snapping the switches off.
Hi Stu. Been watching for quite a while and enjoying your channel. For your alignment may I suggest you get the faces of the couplings aligned first. It doesn’t matter if you’re high or low or off to one side. Just so long as they are true to each other.
Then you adjust your height or side to side alignment. That way you can count your turns on the jacking bolts while maintaining that face alignment. For example if you’re low you wind up all the jacking bolts the same amount of turns and maintain your face alignment. Same for sideways adjustment.
You may need a final tweak for the face but that way you’re only chasing one axis at a time instead of trying to do all three at once.
Edit: Actually you’re trying to chase 4 axes.
Makes sense to me!
Great video!
Keep a eye on that tie wrap ive had them cut into hoses before and if that temp sender is metric and the engine side is imperial you could get adapter to go smaller than you need and drill it out and tap it
Yeah, it's only temporary. Bend hose on its way!
Looking Good Stu, are you considering a couple of protective shrouds for the battery switches? Would not want to see one belted off by a scuba tank or other equipment. Alignment is getting there mate. Keep up the good work. Regards from beautiful Bribie Island.
Yep, dogs make great trade assists, and not bad skippers as well. Keep dialing in that prop shaft your nearly there.
Hey Stu, get a 3/4 Z hose for a perfect 90 degree bend, easy to get as well.
Stu! Glad to see you and Renko!! Good job Mate!
Stu
Grab that bolt out of the bilge stbd side below the polyflex, minute 7:30 in the vid
love your work mate
Yes, I saw that one when editing and installed it this morning.
FYI ..When you make your throttle bracket. I saw on Project Brupeg they added a support beam to keep it from flexing and were told not to make it out of aluminum, but stainless steal...
Yes, I saw that too, but I found the perfect piece of thick aluminium and having seen thin aluminium hulls take a pounding for 60 years I'm not buying the work hardening theory when it comes to throttle brackets.
Nice work Stu, it’s moving right along!!!! Little things matter and your doing it right!!!!!
The 19mm coolant hose: use longer hose with a loop.
In theory... don't address the centering left/right up/down yet. Get your flanges parallel first. (Maybe separate the flanges by a .010 or .020 inch and use feeler gauges). Next, no matter what, adjust all 4 horizontals or verticals the same amounts to get the port/starboard and THEN the vertical centering. By proof the top and bottom will be the same if both sides match, as you were saying.
Sounds like a good approach. It is already confusing enough without dealing with multiple dimensions at the same time.
Good work stu
I had a similar problem with installing a new temp gauge in old stationary engine . My solution was to drill the guts out of old sender and tap to metric thread for the new sender.
@Stephen , wish I knew you 10 years ago when I was in a similar predicament to Stu. +1
I was wondering if that would be possible. Great solution.
Stephen, I was thinking about getting a brass plug and drilling and tapping it to fit the new sender but your way saves a trip to the store!
Yes, I thought that might be possible but in the end just got a solid plug to drill and tap with no unknown internals.
I must've said this 3x LOL. Even your Detroit Diesel mechanic said this on one of your vids.
Get rid of the damn gasket! Just make sure the surfaces are spotlessly clean & make sure they're flat and coat them with with grey or red silicone, tighten and stop worrying about leaking gaskets (unless of course you like fighting with gaskets). If you do it right it will never leak, weep, cry, ooze, escape, discharge, emanate, exude, suffer osmosis, flow, percolate, aerate, come out, get out, secrete or effing drip!
[end rant]
Edit: I used to lose keys until someone gave me a pep talk about unnecessary angst we cause ourselves. They gave me a solution also. Now I hang the kunce on hooks : )
Miss the chooks.
ThePaulv12 Kindly thanking you for the timely reminder comment on how much we cause unnecessary angst to ourselves. That’s one thing. But having to watch or tolerate loved ones doing the same missteps to themselves, over and over again, is truly a hardship on the heart. Especially since there is literally nothing you can do. *sigh*. 😢
@@ladydi4runner If I could tell you one thing about human psychology that is as predictable as death and taxes, it's we'll never change anything about ourselves until we're sick of it.
We all do things because we get something out of it. When we get sick of it we initiate change.
This tells us trying to help people change that don't want to change is giving them exactly what they want. They are playing power games and we become unwitting players.
I got off that silly ride, but they still try to draw you back in. Once you 'get it' then you begin to see what's really going on in people you care about (or yourself). Sometimes setting ourselves up as the instrument of change in another's life is more about us. Very slippery the human ego. At least knowing how it works helps - a bit.
Unusually serious of me which is why I prefer the chooks. They're so well, unhuman (and you can eat them).
ThePaulv12 Most appreciate your insightful comments. Glad you’re unusually serious, for it is quite helpful. We operate from the same school of thought, it seems. As you mentioned, the hardest part is “ not getting drawn back in”. Especially w loved ones who don’t realize how much strength it takes to “turn the other cheek and walk away “. Nuff said, yes?! For I feel a mainline pipe about burst...but guess what just kicked in?! No Unnecessary Angst!!! Whew ! 😳Thanking the Good Lord for that cutoff valve. And you for sharing it! Cheers! 👍😁
Coronavirus spreading, markets crashing, toilet paper panic-buying... And then there's this... 3:18. Suddenly, 2020 is okay again.
Just a quick note: We ALWAYS use the horizontal position of those levers as OFF position, as this looks like a closed gate / bar or a "stop" sign. A vertical line (lever position) means "run" or "flow"... But as long as you know what you are doing, I reckon there is no law against it :)
Good point, I am a big fan on following conventions.
@@DangarMarine yeah, but I only recognised later that you used existing holes. And I am a fan of easy work... :D
You could get a 1/2 inch NPT pipe plug then drill and tap it to fit that temperature sending unit.
Yes, that is exactly what I ended up buying.