Home made gauges : Generic development kit based on X27 stepper
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 เม.ย. 2019
- [UPDATE]
Final version of the kit is released.
Unboxing and assembly tutorial here :
• Generic Gauge Developm...
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Here is a new model of gauge created as a "kit" ready to be assembled.
Size and pattern are easy to modify so they can match most of cockpit builders own requirements.
Switec steppers also exists with dual concentric shafts, we can imagine quite the same approach for an altimeter (except the zero position which needs to be detected). Added as many other projects to my todo list !
No interface yet, this is just for testing purposes. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I noticed you made the new engine indicators. Great. I m so happy for you. My sim is waiting to use all your gauges soon. Please keep up with great job u r doing now. Brilliant efforts. Thumbs up
Thanks a lot, good luck for your sim !
Hi Frederic, this is an absolutely fantastic project that you have undertaken, what an achievement, well done!
Thank you very much !
@@Frederic_320
You are most welcome.
je suis impressionné par la qualité de vos instruments et par la satisfaction obtenue lors de leur utilisation.
Merci beaucoup cher Emil pour votre commentaire si plaisant à lire ! Les vidéos ne reflètent que les succès, mais effectivement la satisfaction finale est grande, d'autant plus que le nombre d'échecs rencontrés lors du prototypage a été important !
Je vous souhaite d'agréables fêtes de fin d'année, et suis sûr que nos routes seront amenées à se croiser très prochainement ;-)
Au plaisir d'une prochaine rencontre.
Perfect! Great job. Congratulations!
Thank you very much ! :-)
Hey I need your help on some questions! Im trying to build a gm speedometer using this x27 168 stepper motor circuit board kit. Im gona use my vss on transfer case for signal. Got the drac module and pcm i hope i can get the stepper motor to work as speedometer. I wonder if its possible?
Thank you so much for reply. Surely I am waiting for final. And in hope you really not selling your products so high unreachable. I am looking forward to buy them in this case. God speed and take care
Superbe réalisation. Ça donne des idées 😀
Merci merci ;-) Bonne continuation dans tes idées !
Thank you so much. I will be in touch with you for your final work. God bless and in advance merry christmas .
No problem, thanks to you, and no problem if you want some pictures or information, the mail shown in the video is available ! Best regards, hope to hear from you soon.
@@Frederic_320 thank you , i will waiting for your video, im building the mine but is difficult print the colors and get the realism
Happy new year. Thank you for reply. It is ok. I wish you success with or without the gause. Keep up with your great things you do. What happened to tour other gauges ? As far as I remember you mentioned that you are also working on two step motors gauges.
Wish you success
Josh
The dual needle gauge prototype was finished yesterday (L/R fuel, oil temp/press ...), I'm testing it at this time and I'll upload a video of its development very soon. If everything goes right, the commercial version of 60x60 dual needle may be available next month. Unfortunately, I didn't succeed with concentric needles such as altimeter, sorry. But stay tuned, new video upload in the next few days :-)
Gorgeous work!
Thank you !
Can u give me links on how to make this, with simviation is it a software, I am a litle confused as i want to make flight sim instruments without any coding. Please help me
Great project which, IMHO, way beyond an average Simers Tech capacities
Amazing job Frederic!! But I have a question about front panel. What is the orange ring? Is it a support for 3D printer? How do you do this kind of support?
Hi Carlos,
Thanks for your comment. You're perfectly right, the orange ring was a support. I don't like generic supports calculated by the slicer because top surface is never perfectly flat and in that case, I needed it. But I'm not an expert and perhaps I don't set slicer parameters correctly ... So, I create my 3D model in two parts (support and gauge) and print them with two different filaments which don't melt together : here orange PLA and black HIPS if I remember. I'm actually waiting for a resin printer (which hopefully will arrive this month) to obtain a more beautiful aspect of this visible part.
Super, Congratulations and Thank you
Thank you, happy you enjoyed these videos.
Awesome work - looking forward to seeing how you tackle the dual concentric shaft gauge. Any plans to do a triple shaft?
Thanks Adam for your comment. I've no idea at this time (and not a lot of time to experiment) but be sure I'll be proud to present a new video if I move forward on this point.
Do you have a peg for setting the zero mark on the needle? Or perhaps you have some sort of sensor to detect at least one absolute position?
I'm interested in building an analog gauge that can rotate 360 continuously.
This model (as I don't need a 360° continuous rotation) has no sensor. I just reach the physical stop of the motor during initialization, and that's my zero point. Each reset of the gauge sets the zero point. For gauges which need 360° moves, a sensor is required (for example IR or hall effect). But that's only my opinion and I'm not a professional, perhaps other ideas will be better than mine...
Sir thank you for sharing your kknowledge. Can you kindly please let me know where did you buy all pieces? I mean how to address in Amazon to buy each parts?
Hello,
Thanks for your comment. All parts are printed / laser cutted in my home except the pcb which now come from a professional manufacturer. For now, these kits are not sold but they should be in the next few weeks. I'm working on the last step : the packaging. If you're interested to be informed of the beta / final release or just spare parts, feel free to contact me directly by mail.
Sir did you done with your packaging? Are you selling now?
Also I wanted to know what is the best laser cutting gracing as well as 3d printing is good and you are using?
Hello,
Thanks again for your interest :-) Yes the packaging is ready and some kits are ready to be shipped. I hadn't enough time yet for an assembly video of the final kit but it's really near from what I've shown in the video above. If you want more information, the best way is to contact me directly by mail.
For the 3D prints, mine are far from the perfection. My printer is quite old and has more and more problems. I'm actually trying a resin printer, but I'm not sure to use it for the gauges because prints are much more complicated and expensive than FDM, and the first idea of the kit was to be cheap. So I can't give any advice about 3D printers as I'm not satisfied with my own prints. For the laser machine, I'm using a 50W Chinese CO2 laser (working area 50 x 30cm) and I'm very satisfied. I bought it many years ago for my home cockpit and never had any kind of problem with it. I mainly use it to cut and engrave plywood and plexiglass (PMMA), for cockpit panels and gauges.
Nice work! How did you print the face of the dial with the various colors? Was it silk screened? It looks very professional!
I didn't find the correct way to print patterns, here is how I proceed : th-cam.com/video/k8ooTohtTqM/w-d-xo.html
The result is pretty nice, but is time-consuming. The main problem is how to obtain opacity on black part and transparency on white and colored symbols.
I'd love to test UV printing directly on plexiglass...
dove trovi i pcb ?
A few questions:
1) Looks like the current draw is low and you can direcst connect to I/O pins, is that right?
2) Does the stepper have freewheeling diodes built in to suppress inductive kickback?
3) How does the guage "home" (or zero itself) after each power cycle?
Thanks!
Hello Enigma,
Thank you for your relevant questions !
1/ You're right, current is very low and this gauge was directly connected to an Arduino Nano. But it's better to drive it through a driver, the best I've found is a VID6606 : smoother moves and less noise.
2/ No, the stepper doesn't has diodes (one more reason to use a driver). I have read many times that diodes are needed, but I supposed with such small coils and low currents, I could do without. To be sure I did a gauge go back and forth during more than 24h without any stop and nothing burned (as I don't have much electronics knowledge, I had to find something else to verify !...)
3/ The X27 stepper has an internal physical stop, it cannot turn at 360°. Assuming the maximum course is 1000 steps, the Arduino program turns it 1100 steps to the left at startup. It hurts its limit, that's the zero point. To be exact, I prefer homing to the rightmost position, assuming it stops near the leftmost position. That way there is a less long constrain.
When I''ll have some time I'll design a new PCB :
- With current regulators instead resistors to allow backlight to work from 4V to 30V.
- With one or two IR sensors to allow 360° and concentric shafts steppers.
But designing gauges is not my main occupation, and due to many problems in my professional life I had no time to develop since more than one year.
Feel free to contact me directly by mail if any question, have a nice day !
Hi. I am amazed for this and it is just what ive been looking for! How do you make the back plate of the gauge with the markings on?
I used a diffusing 3mm PMMA sheet (special leds) and glued two patterns on it : the first pattern is printed on hi-resolution white paper (90g or 100g max) and the second one is printed (mirrored) on a transparency film. With these two prints, I obtain a quite opaque black, and white / colors are translucide enough to let backlight pass through. Not perfect, just correct.
When we look at the gauge, the pattern is printed on the front face of the paper, and on the back face of the film. This way the top surface is glossy (not printed side of the film). I only use a classic inkjet printer, I tried with many laser printers and never obtained good results.
@@Frederic_320 great idea. Would you please share the type of transparent film and printer settings you use to print the pattern? I tried with few materials but got really crappy prints. The ink simply doesn't stick to the surface.
@@Waylander131 Hi Stefan,
If the ink doesn't stick on the film, that means your film is not inkjet specific (or you used the wrong side of the film). Inkjet transparency films have a glossy side (the back) and a "granular" one (the front where you must print). Just make sure your films are inkjet specific, otherwise they won't work. My printer does not have specific settings for transparency films, so I'm using a hi res photo preset.
This kind of product may be what you're looking for : www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YA8RSI
I don't use exactly this one, mine comes from a local retailer in France, but it's probably nearly the same.
Hope this will help !
Bonjour, @@Frederic_320 je rebondis sur ce commentaire afin de connaître la référence de votre glue en spray? Avez vous une marque particulière? Merci . Super travail!
@@sojjocola7291 Bonjour et merci pour votre commentaire. La colle que j'utilise est un spray permanent de marque Cléopâtre. Je le trouvais jusqu'à présent chez Cultura, mais il semble qu'ils ne fassent plus cette référence. Je me fournis désormais sur le site "La Fourni Créative", la référence exacte étant chez eux ACP250/3134729102503. Cela dit, je pense que n'importe quel spray fera l'affaire, du moment que la colle est transparente.
Very good video. Is there a way to buy the kit? If yes, which are the steps to follow. Merci
Hello, thank you very much for your comment. If you need any further information about these kits, feel free to contact me directly by mail. Hope to hear from you soon !
How did you do such amazing printing?
Thanks for your comment. I really don't find my prints amazing, especially those in this video ! Perhaps are you sarcastic ;-) ? If not, that's only a basic HIPS printing (ABS for the needle), hope I'll be able to present more beautiful resin prints in a new video soon !
Question please? The guage itself is a sticker placed on the white perspex? Is white better than clear?
Exactly. The perspex sheet is especially made for leds and has high light diffusing capabilities. I first tried with clear and white classic acrylic but led spots were visible on the gauge. It's possible to use clear or white acrylic, but with diffusing leds and a PCB further from the front panel.
What CAD software did you use for the animations in this video please?
It's SolidWorks animations
It is posible to buy a kit with a custom size of dial and hands ? Or only the dials and hands without the Rest of the kit?
Hello David,
I'm not sure to understand what you need exactly. Can you contact me by mail ?
Cool project 👍 What do you use to produce the PCB's? Are they laser etched?
Hi Josh,
The pcb in the video was laser etched (for the protective film) then etched in perchloride. The old way ... Now they are manufactured by a professional with dual layer, solder mask and serigraphy, that's really better !
@@Frederic_320 Hi mate, how are you? I really appreciate your jobs.
I’m trying to do something like that, but I’m getting crazy making the pcb. I’d like to learn how to export the pcb from the 3d project and place the components in the exact position I need.
Can you please explain what kind of software you are using and the best way to follow?
I really appreciate.
Can we keep on touch on Facebook?
Thanks
nicola.podda66@gmail.com
@@nicolapodda Hi Nicola,
Thanks for your interest, but I'm probably the worst person to ask about the PCB development ...
If you really want to know, here is how I'm doing (please do not laugh !!!) :
I'm using a very old freeware (ExpressPCB) which is unable to export files in the industry standard : Gerber. So I have to export first a vector PDF, then import it in CorelDraw, create layers, export each layer in DXF and convert in Gerber with a third soft ! As you can see, my approach is clearly not the good one ... If I had enough time, I would probably learn how to use EasyEDA for example.
For the placement of the components, I first design everything in a 3D model (including each component) then "drill" my 3D PCB where the pins of the components are. After that I export the 3D model of the PCB in a DXF format, so I can read the coordinates of each component or hole. I just have now to enter these coordinates in my PCB design software and everything is at its right place.
Sorry for my English it i'm not very understandable, feel free to contact me directly by mail if any question.
@@Frederic_320 hi Federic, thanks for y reply.
Can we keep in touch on messenger or email? Are y Italian?
Please let me know…
Facebook link facebook.com/nicola.podda.18
Love your video. It's an inspiring. Takes some of the mystery out of how to custom build flight sim instruments. What 3D printer do you use? How do you manufacture your PC boards? Thanks!
Hi Scott, thanks for your interest.
I'm using an old CEL Robox 3D printer I bought on KickStarter many years ago. This is a first generation printer and it has printed thousands hours, I'll probably buy another one (same brand) soon, I'm very satisfied with CEL products, upgrades and support. The 3D printed part used in the video is a shame, I have much more beautiful results with Creality or Raise printers we use at work. At this time, a basic CR10S have quite good results for a low price. For the PCB, I manufacture my own prototypes at home and when everything seems to be OK, I order small series on Internet. There are many online services for that, I don't have a particular one. If you want to have a look, you can find some picture in the manual here : laap.sim.free.fr/Docs/Doc%2083B5%20Rev%201.pdf
Best regards,
Frederic
How did u conect this to flight simulator. Can u give me some links to what you bought and what I need please
Hi Hashim,
For an example of FsX or P3D interfacing, you can have a look at my other video : th-cam.com/video/WNm6UHQKQuI/w-d-xo.html
This will give you an idea, but the Arduino approach wasn't tested with the X27 stepper shown here.
I didn't bought any "already made" part, everything is manufactured by myself.
Some parts are 3D printed (needle / front part) or cutted with a plotter (vinyl adhesives). Acrylic is laser cutted, I buy large pieces of clear / black / special leds PMMA. Some of them come from Amazon, others from this store : www.plexiglas-shop.com/Products
Prototype PCB are also made at home, and when I'm satisfied I order for small quantities in China. Electronic components come mainly from Aliexpress.
Some of these kits will be for sale very soon, if you're interested please contact me directly by mail. Actually there are four versions : 5V or 12V backlight / 60mm or 83mm gauges.
The kits are not plug and play and need to be interfaced with FsX or P3D by yourself. I like Arduino but many people suggested to have a look at Mobiflight (www.mobiflight.com/en/index.html). You can also consider Opencockpits (www.opencockpits.com), I worked with their IO cards a lot and they still do the job in my A320 cockpit after many years.
Some information about the kit here : laap.sim.free.fr/Docs/Doc%2083B5%20Rev%201.pdf
Best regards,
Frederic
What app do you use to draw the gauge face plate? And what materials do you print it on? Also, where do you get your pointers?
Hi, thanks for your interest.
Patterns are designed under Corel Draw, then printed on 2 sheets glued together (one white, 100 to 120g/m², and one transparent, mirrored). This is to avoid light leak through black parts, my prints are not opaque enough if only on one sheet.
You can see how I proceed in that video : th-cam.com/video/k8ooTohtTqM/w-d-xo.html
Hope this will help 🙂
I LOVE YOUR GAUGE! ACTUALLY IM BUILDING THE MINE BUT IM NOT SURE HOW MADE THE STICKER WITH THE LETTER AND THOSE STUFF, IS VINYL? THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR READING
Hi, thanks for your interest ! I'm not sure what you're talking about : do you mean the pattern or the white sticker on the needle ? The sticker is a vinyl cut, the gauge pattern is composed of two superposed parts : one on thin white photo paper, and the other one on a transparency film. This is the best result I found, these two sheets glued together are opaque enough and avoid light leakage through the black parts of the pattern. Hope it's what you were looking for !
@@Frederic_320 I mean, the pattern, thank you so much! the film where did you get it? or have a special name?
You can find this film anywhere, it's an inkjet transparency film (because I use inkjet printer, but it also exist for laser printers. Don't mix them, they are totally different and will damage the printer if an incorrect film is used). Inkjet transparency films are a little expensive, around 1 USD per A4 page. The photo paper I'm using is 100g/m², I tried thicker paper (best quality I guessed) but light does not pass through enough and the gauge is not illuminated correctly. I'm about to finish the final kit assembly video and also really want to do another "bonus" video showing the parts manufacturing, including prints, laser cut, 3D printing and vinyl cut. So stay tuned ! All the best for your projects :-)
Regards,
Frederic
@@Frederic_320 great! I'll be waiting for those friend videos, one more question, the pattern where did you get it?
@@EdzVloGs The assembly tutorial video of the final kit will be uploaded this week :-) I'm designing patterns myself, starting from pictures of real gauges or sent by volunteer beta testers. I'm using a 2D vector graphic editor which allows to draw with precise measurements, but also superpose many layers and use those I want for plotter or laser cut. I also export some of these 2D graphics to a 3D editor, that's how I create animations which perfectly match with real parts (since a unique file is used for all these purposes). Very convenient in my case ! But designing, printing, laser cutting and gluing patterns is really time consuming, that's why I will only provide them as an option or if many gauges (4 or +) are ordered at the same time.
Sir any up dates in regards with your gauges? I salute you for deciding to make gauges that are affordable unlike what we can find in market. Kindly do not hesitate to post your success. I will be the first buyer of your gauges
Thanks ! See my previous comments, and sorry for the late reply, I've really not had a lot of time these last weeks. Feel free to contact me by mail, hope to hear from you soon !
I like it! Trying to build my own gauges. I can't figure out the code to make x-plane interact with the Nano.
Why don't you visit Simvim.com you don't need to write codes, it's really easy with simvim.
@@FlightSim2703 Very interesting project, thank you !
Hi Frederick do you have any gauges for sale? Ready made or kit
Hello, thank you for your interest ! I have some gauges for sale, could you contact me by mail please ? I hope to hear from you soon :-)
Please tell me what model you used stepper motor.
It doesn't look like the standard X27 168.
X27-589 : exactly the same as X27-168, but with pins on the front side.
@@Frederic_320 One more question - what driver do you use for the stepper motor?
@@IvanEng747 The best I have used is the VID6606, as you can see in this video : th-cam.com/video/oaehpYsZCrk/w-d-xo.html
But it can also be plugged directly to the Arduino board due to the very low current required by the X27 (this is the case in that video, you see a Nano without any driver at 20:09).
In this case, it is recommanded to add diodes, but I've never done...
Hi Frederick i love your flight instrument kit. Will you be selling these kits? Im interested in buying six pack from you.
Hi Adams, thanks for your interest. Many people contacted me next to that video to buy these kits, and some gauges have already been shipped in different countries. At this time, a first batch of gauges can be sold and I'm waiting for the first feedback of users who are testing them. I wanted to do a promotional video to show exactly what it is (and what it's not !), but I've not a lot of time due to my main job ... If you want more information, feel free to contact me directly by mail, I'll be able to send you some documentation and pictures.
Best regards,
Frederic
Thank you for your prompt reply. What is your email
Frederic_320 Thanks for getting back to me. What is your email
@@costaadams3005 Just look at the PCB in the video ;-)
Hi Frederic, Nice! I just started to look for info to build such gauges. Would love to build some panels for the F-14B or the F-18 (both DCS)
Don't have much yet. Just got myself an Arduino Nano, a sensr kit and a Arduino basic course on Udemy... Are you selling kits? Or parts from the kit or maybe 3d files? I do have a 3d printer at my work (work as a docent jr. electro).
Hi Alex, thanks for your comment, the first one !
I don't sell these "kits" at this time but I can provide some parts or files to make specific physical gauges you need. In addition to the video, I've also experimented a more complicated PCB allowing to plug multiple gauges in serial (less wires ...) but this needs a server pcb which is not fully functional at this time. So please keep in mind I've just realized a hardware part, no interface is available for now, my last attempts to link P3D in real time and get needle smooth moves were unsuccessful. Feel free to contact me directly by mail, address on the PCB in the video is a real one.
@@Frederic_320 Thanks Frederic!
Where can I get PCB?
great
What would you consider to be a "real" driver for an x27? I bought a few x27 motors and have since learned I need to find the right driver. I was going to order one from pololu, but get the feeling these drivers are not "really" intended for a 260ohm coil. If you wouldn't mind, I would like to hear your thoughts on a solution. If the solution is to run the motor slower, and still use a 4988 chip, I can accept that.
Or use a PID to control accel/decel
I'm not an electronician, just an enthusiast and my opinion is based on my experiments only ... So consider it with caution.
I used these motors plugged directly on an Arduino (as in this video), or using 4988 or 8825 drivers, and I didn't noticed a great difference except the ability to use microsteps with drivers. Steppers have to be powered with a regulated current, not a constant voltage. So the main problem is to provide the correct current to the stepper, that's not possible with the arduino (which only powers the coils with 5V) and not easy with 4988 or 8825 drivers which are designed for more powerful motors (and in addition we are not in the voltage range of the datasheet ...) The result is a noisy motor and possible damages on coils.
The best results I have obtained with the X27 stepper is using a VID6606 driver, especially designed for this kind of motor. I noticed smoother moves and less noise, so for now, that's the driver I would recommend.
There is a short summary here : guy.carpenter.id.au/gaugette/resources/vid/2009111391612_VID6606%20manual%20060927.pdf
Hope it will help.
@@Frederic_320 I am but a simple Electronic Tech for a bakery. Your information has been the best I have received today! I was just looking at the Juken brand Quad driver for the X27. store.minitools.com/en/ic-m-s-quad-driver-j12-017-sol-28-pin-2173.html There is an image of the pinout of the chip, I emailed to ask for more information as well. I also emailed Juken to see if I could at least get a datasheet from them.
I see now, the data you shared is part of an article as well. Thank you. I shall sleep horribly, thinking of stepper motors and driver tonight! haha
Can i order this?
How do the motor knows its starting position? Thanks
The motor has an internal stop. When plugged, the nano moves it to its rightmost position, so I'm sure it hits the stop. The reference is that constant position, and I only have to move it backwards down to zero. The number of steps to reach zero depends on how the needle has been assembled, so the gauge needs to be "calibrated" after assembly (I have to code the number of steps from rightmost to zero position).
@@Frederic_320 Thanks for the quick response. Please find some time to make another video about this topic. Thanks again.
👍🏿
How may I purchase your kits?
Hi Tony,
Thanks for your interest. I'm working on a website, but as it's not ready for now, the best may is to contact me directly by mail.
Hope to hear from you soon,
Regards,
Frederic
Wow ☺👍awesome video we need no instruction menu, this video does it all. Good job, how much is the Kitt? Where can we purchase this kit ?
Hi Brian,
I'm about to sell some "beta" parts in the next few weeks. I'm actually working on the packaging to be able to ship all parts safely without any kind of damage. The 20 first units will probably be sold for 39€ + shipping cost but before that I have to understand if I can use YT for a promotional video. If yes, I'll do a new video of unboxing and assembly. If not I'll only put the kits on eBay. Feel free to contact me by mail if needed.
@@Frederic_320 Hey Frederic, I am also interested in getting few of those for my project. How can I reach you?
@@gaz0z The mail on the pcb shown in the video is a good start ;-)
@@Frederic_320 Hah! Missed that! Thanks for pointing it out :)
@@Frederic_320 Isn't it LAAP.SIM ? Did you got my mail? I sent it quite a while ago. :)
top sinon ou est ce qu on peut commander le kit?
Merci ! Vous pouvez me contacter directement par l'adresse mail indiquée dans la vidéo.
bonjour, vous utilisez quelle librairie pour le code arduino ?
Bonjour,
J'ai tenté au début d'utiliser AccelStepper mais j'ai rencontré beaucoup de problèmes. La gestion des accélérations est bien pratique lorsqu'on veut passer d'un état arrêté à un état en mouvement (et inversement), par contre lorsqu'il s'agit d'aller à une nouvelle position alors que l'aiguille est déjà en mouvement, les accélérations posent problème. Du moins dans l'état de mes modestes connaissances !
J'ai ensuite testé la librairie Stepper basique de l'IDE qui ne gère pas les accélérations, c'était beaucoup mieux.
Mais finalement je me suis résolu à envoyer moi-même les signaux step/dir aux drivers. Donc actuellement, je n'utilise plus de librairie.
Pour faire simple, dans mon code, je connais la position actuelle et la position ciblée. Si currentPos < targetPos, dir=0; doStep; currentPos++ / Si currentPos > targetPos, dir=1; doStep; currentPos--
Voilà comment je procède à l'heure actuelle.
@@Frederic_320 super merci pour la réponse, de mon coté j'ai trouvé la bibliothèque SwitecX25.h que j'ai testé avec un driver tb6612, ça a l'air pas mal, à confirmer
@@jeanpaulbredeche1770 Merci bien pour l'info, je ne l'ai jamais testée mais c'est une piste intéressante !
@@Frederic_320 je viens de le tester sur dcs, ça fonctionne plutôt bien
Dear sit how much is that laser print of yours? Does it cut clean and clear and can I program by the machine itself? Please forgive me since I amm really not good in this stuff. What is the brand?
And please if you find a worthy 3d printer that you yourself want to buy introduce me as well. You are really doing great job. I pray unlike so many other companies , you do not sell your gauges unreachable. Wish you the best
Bonsoir , je vie en FRANCE et je construi un simulateur de vol de l'avion le Beechraft 200 , je suis heureux de trouver ce que je cherche depuis très longtemps , comment trouver les plans du dessin de la plaque support moteur , les supports et cadres et aiguilles , je serais heureux merci de me donner de vos nouvelle .cordialement ,
Bonsoir,
Merci pour ton intérêt. Cette vidéo montre peut-être plus précisément le contenu des kits que je réalise :
th-cam.com/video/1BZD57Ts6O0/w-d-xo.html
Malheureusement je ne fournis pas les schémas ni les modélisations des instruments / circuits qui sont en vente, mais si certaines parties des kits t'intéressent, n'hésite pas à me contacter directement par mail, je te ferai une proposition.
Excellente année 2021,
Frédéric
Hello, thank you for sharing your video. I am developing my own home cockpit too but I am using opencockpit boards and I have problems controlling stepper motors, and I would like to use Arduino. The flight sim that I use is P3D V4, and I cannot find a software to communicate between FSUIPC to P3D V4. In TH-cam write: "Simulador de vuelo, Piper Pa-34 Seneca II (Parte 2) " to watch my project.
Sorry Alejandro, I won't help ... I used a lot of OC cards for my cockpit but only for switches, encoders, leds, digits and servos. Never tried to interface steppers and even actually, I'm also unable to interface them correctly with Arduinos. Some "slow" gauges works fine (flaps, temp) but it's more difficult for engine rpm which have to respond quickly and are constantly updated. Good luck in your experiments !
hi, amazing project, can you share with us the Arduino code :)
xD Better than in Boeing
Arghh, glass cockpits ... no drill, no component, no 3D printing, no code to write ... What a paradise !
Sir u forgot your promise. U said u gonna send me one but you never did send me the invoice
Hi Sir,
I'm really sorry if I forgot to send the invoice for your kit, I thought all my shipments were made at this time. Is it possible for you to recontact me by mail ? If you still want to buy a kit, I'll compensate my error with a little present. Apologies for that, best regards,
Frederic
Hi again, I didn't received a mail from you and I cannot identify you from your YT name, please could you email me so I can trace our previous discussion ?
Thanks in advance, hope to hear from you soon and happy new year too, all the best for you and your family :-)
Hi friend. I write to you on your channel. Because I have sent you countless emails but I have not received any response. I know you made a batch of 40 instruments, I guess you already sold them. But I am interested in your design, I like the servo system you use, they are simple to assemble. The technique is absolutely easy to access. I have only one problem. I don't know if you sell the PCB or PCB design, I don't know if this design is standard for all instruments, but the back light seems as professional as that of a real instrument, your design is even better. My idea in my panel is the replica of the standard 172 Sp MSFS2020. I want to do it with standard instruments because the idea I have is to be able to train students in it. It is not that I am an instructor but I know that many students would benefit and save a lot of money practicing in a simulator replicated from an original. In my student days the MSFS was very helpful and in those days we only limited ourselves to navigating theoretical instruments. The technology that exists today did not exist. Therefore I want to use your instruments. But I don't know how to access them. or or at least you can obsess me, sell, negotiate. The PCB design plans, so I would do them here and the rest of the parts I do with my equipment, I have everything I need to do them, I just need the schematic design of the pcb. or the pcbs. because the engine instrument system seems spectacular to me. If you want to share with me, sell me or negotiate what I have asked of you, please, you can reply to me at bocatin@yahoo.com in advance, a million thanks. And like you I am using the google translator. Because my native language is Spanish.
Hello Simon,
Sorry for missing your mails, I always reply to each request and don't understand what happened. Just sent you a mail with answers to your questions, feel free to reply for any further information.
Best regards,
Frederic