1995 Ford Crown Victoria Lower Control Arm Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 มี.ค. 2017
- This video details some of the highlights of the procedures involved when replacing the lower control arm for a 1995 Ford Crown Victoria without a spring compressor. The job is not difficult with the exception of the large amount of stored energy within the front spring, which is under considerable tension. Other than that, it’s popping ball joints, tie rod ends, and removing several nuts/bolts. (3/4/2017)
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1997 Vic….
You sir, just saved my family over a thousand bucks, and I finally learned how to do a suspension job at 50.
Thank you for taking the time to help me…by doing your video.
Thank you. I followed this video to the T. The fighting spring started to whoop me until I had and idea. I jacked up the control arm and then placed a spark plug socket on a smaller jack and lifted the spring up a bit more and smacked it with a piece of steel rod and WahBam!!!! it went right in. Thanks again.
Very good, thank you.
One suggestion. Where there is turn stop on CA, put A TON of some thick grease onto it or, you WILL end with very loud metal on metal grinding noise in left full turn. There's bump on hub that hits that stop in full turn, while CA moves a bit up and down. Sounds terrifying and is simple matter of lubrication.I'd also put same grease onto spring cup, at the bottom. Spring rotates, as CA goes up and down so, eventually, it eats through paint and down to the metal. Rub-rub.
Final suggestion - do not release jack until you are done torquing castle nut. Or, you will have to pull stud into the knuckle with nut, and it's fine thread, easy to bust with too much tension.
excellent video! alot of videos I see do not show the actual procedure used to remove the spring. Thankyou for showing it! I have done this by removing the knuckle completely. decent amount of work when doing it correctly and safely. Note bushings should be final torqued when loaded or on the ground so they dont twist and tear. great video!
Jeez, I'm wondering what happened to this guy? I enjoyed watching his videos
I realize this is an older video but you do not tap the shock bolt holes. The bolts are self tapping.
little tip, the botom two shock holes will eventually strip out, the pressed metal is thin. Tack weld two 5/16-18 lock nuts on the top of the holes anytime you have a control arm out or putting a new one in. Just run your shock bolts up through the holes, tighten the nut down until sitting on control arm surface then tack weld in couple spots, then remove bolt, Will save you a pain in the ass in the future.
Great video man, did a full front end suspension job on my 99 vic today, your advice on the springs worked like a charm, cheers 🤟.
Whatever happened to you man? Your videos were so awesome
wish u would come back i liked your videos
Thank you for mentioning the tap size, nobody else's video does. My first time getting this deep into a repair myself. Always wanted to learn to work on cars. Ty
Excellent video. I did the front end on my 83 Chevy Caprice about 15 years ago. The Fords are quite similar except that on the Chevies the caster adjustment is made using shims on the upper control arm ends whereas the Fords have the eccentric bolt for that. Good stuff! Thank you.
The older ford's use shims just like the chevy. I think they went to the eccentric design around 1992 or so.
Missed your videos! Thanks for sharing this.
It's been a long time since you've made a video? How's the Cadillac and the Roadmaster doing? Do you still got the Crown Vic the one you took your grandparents engine and put it in there the rest of the car into it and how are you been I miss you videos a lot I wish you'd start making them again you must be busy it's been 4 years now
Starting this job on a 93 Merc today! Thanks for the video!
HUGE help...changing the exact same size stuff on my 85 Crown Vic LTD
Shouldn't the 2 bushed control arm mounts only be final tightened once the car is at driving height? This would prevent the bushings from being twisted in the rest position shortening their life.
You are right. Your comment prompted me to review the service procedure and it indeed recommended tightening them up only after the car is at ride height. I later went back and loosened them up with the car on the ground, jounced it to relieve any stress on the bushings, and tightened them back up just to be sure. Thanks for the observation.
You can use a jack to do it. Actually on some cars that's the only way because when the tires on the car you cant get a wrench on it.
as soon as he put the castle nut on the ball joint and it was safe with the hydraulic jack still in place he was able to tighten the control arms since they were at ride height, at that point.
Thank you man....you doing a great job......keep going👏👏👏👏👏👍👍👍👍👍
Glad to see you back! I love your videos.
Thanks. Between the brake line failure and these control arms, these issues would have sent most cars in this condition and age to the salvage yard, but it always seems to work out to where it's "cheaper to keep her." Now, it's a good reliable car.
Thanks for a great video! This will come in handy as I replace the front upper and lower control arms on my '92 TC. Not looking forward to the spring ordeal tho.
Where are you? Just noticed you havent posted for 3 years
Why do you tell how to replace the spring, but you don't show it?
I'm glad to see that a video like this exists, because I have a 1996 Lincoln Town Car Executive with 260,000 miles, and I will have to eventually replace the front coil springs and lower control arms. I couldn't find a video on coil spring replacement for any 1991-2002 Ford Panther Car until now. I've been told a spring compressor is needed, but I wouldn't see any point of using one if there's excessive spring fatigue after 20 years of jouncing up and down a half a billion times. The 2003-2011 Panther Cars will absolutely require a coil spring compressor due to Ford upgrading to coil over shocks (struts), only if you're replacing the strut and not the entire assembly.
With these new control arms and the other work I've done to this car, I can say that I've rebuilt the entire front suspension less the upper control arms. This thing was way tired!
Yeah, I bet. You might know this already, but the brake lines on these early panther cars have "bubble flared" ends. I've replaced one brake line on my 1996 Town Car due to it being a northern car for the past 4 years. The previous owner had the rear lines replaced before, but the master cylinder was almost drained completely dry, and when that happens, air becomes trapped in the hydraulic unit and affects operation of the abs accumulator and proportioning valve, which requires a scan tool to bleed the abs pump out. But anyways, I replaced the catalytic converters (and the entire dual exhaust system) since they were both clogged. One major problem I ran into was two broken and rusted exhaust manifold studs at the flange. The solution was to grind them down flush within the ear of the manifold and drill holes out to tap new threads in for the new stud hardware kit. After that was said and done, it would have been better for me to install brand new exhaust manifolds.
Tackling upper and lower control arms with lowering springs on my 96 soon this is a huge help.
Cool awesome this video helped me because I’m going to need to do the Front springs on a 1994 Lincoln town car
Nice of you to explain how to put the spring in, which really is of no help whatsoever especially since it does not go in doing it that way. Why not show how you actually did it? You show everything else.
Nice, I gotta that here asap on my 95 crn Vic, as I've recently done that on my 1958 Edsel Citation, now my Victoria is really makn loud squeakn noises when I turn my steering wheel badd!! Thanks for sharing this, 👍👍 Happy New year.
How about an update video? Haven't seen a video from you in like a year!
You did best video i seen in long time helped me alot
Great video lots if good tips thanks man
Having trouble with spring install gonna try the breaker bar trick thanks for the video.
Very informative. Great video!
Men thanks for you help, great video, it was my guide to do this job. Regards
Great video and I think this will help me . TY
Sure won't be sticking my head underneath there like that 🤕
@shadowrider460 No videos in years! Hope everything is ok!
hello. It was the same body (panther) of a Lincoln continental town car 1980? thanks for your answer.
where have you been for so long?
You were helping a friend with his s 10 brakes and headlights, , , and I came to liking you on your knowledge of automotive things. I rarely knowable myself. I have a1991 s10 2.8 reg cab, 2wd, nice little truck. I changed out he front brake lines and as I bleed the front brakes I thought the from brake reservoir was for the front brakes this completely draining the rear reservoir. Dah!!!! Now I've bleed and bled the front brakes. ( before I started all this the brakes worked so good that using them was a soft puss cause if you just pushed on them your head would go through the windshield!!! ) NOW the act just like chevy truck breaks , all spungy!!, , no more great brakes! Help!! Dano
H
Jus so you know nowa days ALL of these dang fluids are different in varyations, you can't use the wrong fluids, now days as some parts will fail, you may need to flush IT out. MAKE SURE YOUR FLUID LEVEL IS ALWAYS FULL, FOR IT WILL CAUSE YOU PROBLEMS, OTHERWISE you MAY NEED TO FLUSH OUT YOUR (entire brakes lines, brake calipers, and wheel cylinders), if you got, and the (master cylinder), and put the (correct) brake fluid, if it still doesn't work adjust brakes shoes if you got those types of brakes on the rear, and re bleed, also you may have to replace your master cylinder booster assembly, be ADVISED, IF YOU HAVE ALREADY REPLACED it, its defective, now days I've replaced many new parts several times as their NO GOOD, from alternators, starters, generators, waterpumps, fuel pumps, power steering pumps BATTERIES, wheelcylinders, calpiars, and yes master cylinders. JUS because you put a new part in doesn't mean it's not gonna fail cause it can happen too, regardless of the cost (price), GOOD LUCK. Happy New year
Just an FYI, 10 yrs back you did a a couple of videos on an old JD SST 18 mower, That first video help me, and ended up thanking you by Subscribing. Thx Bear over @ Bears Rod Shop channel.
That cars is in good shape. I have a 97 Marquis. I need to do the headlights soon they are faded and the wiper cowl is warped.
Remember that you have to remove both lower shock mount bolts too in order to do this
i found out the hard way lol
I'm changing the sway bar links and tire rod ends upper and lower control arms I can't get my spring in using the compression tool
I hope you had better luck with ac delco than I did. 01 MGM stabilizer links i bought were garbage. They didn't have full range of movement and were binding when turning to the stops.
you should make an update video on your car collection.
What size are the lower control arm bolts? I cant find this info ANYWHERE.
I'm about to tackle the same thing on my 1996. Thanks for the hint about tapping the new control arm for the shock absorber bolts. I noticed my new control arm was not tapped either.
I plan on using a spring compressor when I do mine.
Only thing you need to do at the end is get the vehicle an alignment.
How hard was the job over all, and how long?
I need to do this to a 2001 Lincoln Town Car. Good Reference Video.
Good old Virginia inspection what part of Virginia do you live in I live in Winchester
Thanks a lot! I will attempt this on my 93' Crown Vic. The bottom bolts that hold the shock absorber in keeps spinning, so i think its time to replace the A Arm so that I'll have new holes to work with
Did you grease the bushings before installing the arms?
Classic video.
I have the same car, trying to get it ready for inspection. My heart sank when you said it won't pass with bushings like that. Mine are the same:( I take it you are in Ontario, I just want a cheap daily, I replaced ALL brake lines as they were completely rusted away. Frame has one hole I am hoping to patch and finally get it on the road. Inspection in Ontario basically means old cars are not allowed.
I did both sides upper and lower on my 97 tc....had to remove brake lines on driver side for upper arm replacement. much easier to buy as an assembly with the ball joint already attached. these cars don't like to have the ball joints replaced, that was my original plan then ended up buying the assemby
Those brake lines are a bitch on the driver's side arm. I managed to replace mine without moving the lines by cutting away some of the plastic housing behind the wheel well and I had just enough room for my ratchet to fit on that nut.
You did good. High five and a beer.
The lower control arms I got from 1aauto.com did not come tapped for the shock. Do you know what size threads they are? I am a machinist but my work may not have this size thread gauge.
5/16 I know it's late as hell but I'm doing it myself now and can't get my spring in using my compression tool
Did you sale the Cadillac
What size MM socket did it take to break the castle nuts loose? I need to get a Chilton book.
O
My control arm bolts will not come out! Can get them to spin with a breaker bar and a lot of force but they will not budge. It’s like they’re cemented in there.
Where did you order these control arm
I have same problem on my lincoln towncar1998 it's not the lower control arm pushing also the upper one both sides.......😔😔😔😔😔😔😔
Easy the upper are bolt in style
The hardest part is fixing back that spring.. Need 4 hands and an internal spring compressor.. 2 to hold the spring while seated on the top isolator, and 2 to slowly jack up the control arm.
Awesome thanks
You didn't need an alignment for changing the arms correct?
ALL-WAYS get a Computerized Wheel Alignment after doing front-end work on your Panther chassis.
I rebuilt the OEM Upper & Lower Control Arms with Urethane Bushings and MOOG "Problem Solver" Ball Joints.
A computerized alignment allows you to have your settings set "to the nominals" -- and make your Panther steer and handle better than it ever has.
www.mercuryforum.com/forum/grand-marquis-14/1995-grand-marquis-restoration-8937/
Excellente job. In lieu of a spring compressor you can use spring clamps which are essentially hardened U bolts...$12 a set at AutoZone.
Looks like you may be able to use a similar spring compressor as used on the mercedes - the telescoping type that goes up the centre with a disk you slot in at either end.
That may work if the shaft is no larger in diameter than the shock strut rod. It would have made the job a whole lot easier on my back! Those springs were tricky to work back up in there and put up a good fight!
Those bushings do need replacing, the fact they are making noise is enough to get me to do it. I can't stand that worn out front end squeak sound. But I'm also very glad to live in a state where they don't do these inspections.
Take the tie rod and ball joint off, spin the wheel assembly all the way to passenger side. It should just clear.
Genuine AC/Delco.... made in China.....
I noticed the same thing. I would have preferred made in the U.S.A., but they do seem to be high quality parts. The ball joints don't seem to be as stout as the Moog units on the older control arms however.
Made in China which equates to even more profit margin for the American company AC Delco....it's the American way!