To all watching this, DO NOT PUT LOCTITE ON PIPE THREAD FITTINGS. Teflon tape is what is supposed to be used on ALL pipe threads. Wilwoods use a 1/8" pipe these fitting into the calipers. No need to wait 24 hours. Just use teflon tape. But DO use that red loctite on the bolts that mount the calipers to the bracket AND the bracket that bolts to the spindle. Pipe threads= must use teflon tape. AN or inverted flare (or any type of fitting that uses some sort of a cone for seating a connection, NO TEFLON TAPE. hope this helps somebody. Pretty simple mistake that's I've seen literally many many times. Good luck on your Mustang bud. Operator error, not a Wilwood fault.
@@Wavetechlifeguardian to be clear, you should NOT use Teflon on brake line fittings/tube nuts. The inverted flare is compressed by tightening the fitting down. Some use Teflon in the last couple threads, but I wouldn’t suggest it.
Let me know if you have any problems with brake fluid leaking from the back of the calipers. Now that I sealed mine so well, they work awesome. Still getting better with time. Way better than drums!
hopefully you installed these and left them the way wilwood indicated.. contradictory to how ole greasy floor garage indicated in his comment, all the wilwood's i've seen, the vein direction doesn't match the direction the drilled holes and slots are. so from what i can tell, you installed them correctly.. the veins should flow toward the rear of the car. direction of holes/slots doesn't matter. he is def correct about npt and AN fittings.. that red you see on the factory threads is liquid thread sealant.. use teflon.. that loctite should never be used.. hopefully you were able to clean that off and install it correctly before running into any issues. i had drilled slotted 12' wilwoods on my 68 as well. i'll be installing 14" 6 piston superlites on it soon for my mustang 2 swap.
They do look backwards, compared to any other slotted brakes I've used. But I followed the directions. And wow, after a couple years of those brakes seating in. That old Stang stops better than ever, the last 30 years I've owned it.
Im about to buy the same kit. I think you mentioned that you have a vacuum canister also? And are you using drums in the rear? Thanks for the video brother. I’ve got a 63 impala
Oh, nice. My dad had a 65 Impala. I am using rear drums, for now. That is the next planned upgrade, to disk. The car was originally 4-drum, non power, so I added a Transam Racing power vacuum conversion.
In this video, 2019, where they show you how to fit a Wilwood kit to a Mustang, he uses thread sealer at 12.22 for the NPT fitting into the caliper and nobody in the comments seems to have any problem with it. Can anyone explain what exactly the problem is with using a high temperature PTFE-based brake thread sealant (i.e. not Loctite thread lock)? I have even seen it said that if a bit of (probably badly applied) Teflon breaks away it could cause problems. Video link: th-cam.com/video/bXBRuxl16rw/w-d-xo.html
Sometimes is more save for yourself and also people around to use a professional shop to instal important parts on your car. It starts with wearing proper shoes. The rotors are alos on the wrong side and sealend is wrong aswell. Dude stay away from srewing
Haha. I wore sandals on my latest video and a strut spring combo fell on my toe.. Lesson learned. The Stang still stops on a dime, after all these years. Much better than the old 4 wheel drums!
Nice job you installed rotor on wrong side! Don't post any more videos till you know what your doing! That's what speed shops are for! OMG keep us posted as to when your on the road so we can be off the road! Your lines are flare fittings you do not use sealers on them.
The rotors looked backward to me too. They are marked left and right, and I followed the instructions. Also, the flare fittings would not stop leaking brake fluid without sealer. That was the only way could get them to work. Is there a better way?
Wavetechlifeguardian first off let me apologize for attacking you as I did First there is mechanics left right and and car left right. In 30 years of doing brakes and suspension I have never come across them installed that way. What you want is the fan or tail or the drill holes to sweep to the rear as if the car is going forward. As they are right now they are correct if car was in reverse. Second when you were spacing your caliper you .... according to your video ..... you were shimming for your pads to be centered. What you want is the caliper spaces left to right over the rotor. Sealer on the flare fitting at the hose definitely not good and the flared elbow that screwed in to the caliper personally never have I used loctite teflon tape yes loctite no. Most calipers use copper compression washers. Loctite is good just be careful it does not get inside the caliper. Remember dirt an foreign material is the worst thing to have in your brake system. It can lodge or become solid inside of brake system. Car=3,000lbs brake system can exert 1,350psi and grain of sand CAN with stand over 3,000psi Take 1350 psi of pressure against that foreign material it can hang the caliper open or clamped shut. 3,000lb car will not stop smoothly. Again please except my apologies.
Thank you! I did not know that. Mechanics left - right is not the car's left - right? I can easily switch them. I do think they look backward that way. I've put slotted rotors on both of my Jeeps, and they are directional the opposite way, and I think look better. Also, I will try the teflon tape instead. I placed all new brake lines in my Mustang, as the old ones ran up around the front grill, from the master cylinder. I've never had a brake fluid leak like that from any other connection. I just didn't know what to do :( Thank you for the information. It will come in handy soon, I hope.
Wavetechlifeguardian if I can be of help I will give you my email address kc0fjs@yahoo.com. Patrick. I am currently building a 1957 Chevy wagon with a 598 big block Chevy 400 trans narrowed Dana 60 rear should be 85 car.
Oh, nice. So you know old cars, And big horse power. I didn't know they made big blocks that big? Sheesh! My car is still parked for the winter, but when it thaws out, I will email with questions. Thank you.
To all watching this, DO NOT PUT LOCTITE ON PIPE THREAD FITTINGS. Teflon tape is what is supposed to be used on ALL pipe threads. Wilwoods use a 1/8" pipe these fitting into the calipers. No need to wait 24 hours. Just use teflon tape. But DO use that red loctite on the bolts that mount the calipers to the bracket AND the bracket that bolts to the spindle. Pipe threads= must use teflon tape. AN or inverted flare (or any type of fitting that uses some sort of a cone for seating a connection, NO TEFLON TAPE. hope this helps somebody. Pretty simple mistake that's I've seen literally many many times. Good luck on your Mustang bud. Operator error, not a Wilwood fault.
I have never thought to use teflon tape on brake lines before. I assumed it wasn't strong enough. I'll try it out! Thanks.
No shit teflon is whats need why the hell didn't this guy know that is the question
@@209chevymon Not everyone has experience with NPT fittings.
@@Wavetechlifeguardian to be clear, you should NOT use Teflon on brake line fittings/tube nuts. The inverted flare is compressed by tightening the fitting down. Some use Teflon in the last couple threads, but I wouldn’t suggest it.
I have those same brakes on my 67. I like your tire/rim combo, what size wheels/tires do you have?
Thread tape not lock tight
Im installing this kit tomorrow!! Im excited getting rid of my crap drums!!
Let me know if you have any problems with brake fluid leaking from the back of the calipers. Now that I sealed mine so well, they work awesome. Still getting better with time. Way better than drums!
@TBone1362 Did you have to modify the spindle in any way like drill a hole or grind the spindle for this kit?
hopefully you installed these and left them the way wilwood indicated.. contradictory to how ole greasy floor garage indicated in his comment, all the wilwood's i've seen, the vein direction doesn't match the direction the drilled holes and slots are. so from what i can tell, you installed them correctly.. the veins should flow toward the rear of the car. direction of holes/slots doesn't matter. he is def correct about npt and AN fittings.. that red you see on the factory threads is liquid thread sealant.. use teflon.. that loctite should never be used.. hopefully you were able to clean that off and install it correctly before running into any issues. i had drilled slotted 12' wilwoods on my 68 as well. i'll be installing 14" 6 piston superlites on it soon for my mustang 2 swap.
They do look backwards, compared to any other slotted brakes I've used. But I followed the directions. And wow, after a couple years of those brakes seating in. That old Stang stops better than ever, the last 30 years I've owned it.
Any issues since you installed them?
Nope! That old Mustang stops quicker, better, than any other time in it's 50 years.
Im about to buy the same kit. I think you mentioned that you have a vacuum canister also? And are you using drums in the rear? Thanks for the video brother. I’ve got a 63 impala
Oh, nice. My dad had a 65 Impala. I am using rear drums, for now. That is the next planned upgrade, to disk. The car was originally 4-drum, non power, so I added a Transam Racing power vacuum conversion.
Nice! I wish you would have shown a video of the power vacuum system. Is that difficult to install?
What M/C and booster did you use?
Both the master cylinder, and the trans am racing booster bracket and conversion are about 15 years old. I really need to replce them too!
I'm looking at this same kit for my 69 ford mustang coupe, but many people say the M/C doesn't fit. Any suggestions on what I should run?
Im using a 74 maverick m/c for disc/drum
In this video, 2019, where they show you how to fit a Wilwood kit to a Mustang, he uses thread sealer at 12.22 for the NPT fitting into the caliper and nobody in the comments seems to have any problem with it. Can anyone explain what exactly the problem is with using a high temperature PTFE-based brake thread sealant (i.e. not Loctite thread lock)? I have even seen it said that if a bit of (probably badly applied) Teflon breaks away it could cause problems. Video link: th-cam.com/video/bXBRuxl16rw/w-d-xo.html
Looks like the passenger side caliper on the driver side.
Bleeders should point UP.
Dont use Loctite. Use Permatex. Or PTFE oil resistant tape.
Sometimes is more save for yourself and also people around to use a professional shop to instal important parts on your car. It starts with wearing proper shoes. The rotors are alos on the wrong side and sealend is wrong aswell. Dude stay away from srewing
Haha. I wore sandals on my latest video and a strut spring combo fell on my toe.. Lesson learned. The Stang still stops on a dime, after all these years. Much better than the old 4 wheel drums!
Nice job you installed rotor on wrong side! Don't post any more videos till you know what your doing! That's what speed shops are for! OMG keep us posted as to when your on the road so we can be off the road! Your lines are flare fittings you do not use sealers on them.
The rotors looked backward to me too. They are marked left and right, and I followed the instructions. Also, the flare fittings would not stop leaking brake fluid without sealer. That was the only way could get them to work. Is there a better way?
Wavetechlifeguardian first off let me apologize for attacking you as I did First there is mechanics left right and and car left right. In 30 years of doing brakes and suspension I have never come across them installed that way. What you want is the fan or tail or the drill holes to sweep to the rear as if the car is going forward. As they are right now they are correct if car was in reverse.
Second when you were spacing your caliper you .... according to your video ..... you were shimming for your pads to be centered. What you want is the caliper spaces left to right over the rotor.
Sealer on the flare fitting at the hose definitely not good and the flared elbow that screwed in to the caliper personally never have I used loctite teflon tape yes loctite no. Most calipers use copper compression washers.
Loctite is good just be careful it does not get inside the caliper. Remember dirt an foreign material is the worst thing to have in your brake system. It can lodge or become solid inside of brake system. Car=3,000lbs brake system can exert 1,350psi and grain of sand CAN with stand over 3,000psi
Take 1350 psi of pressure against that foreign material it can hang the caliper open or clamped shut. 3,000lb car will not stop smoothly.
Again please except my apologies.
Thank you! I did not know that. Mechanics left - right is not the car's left - right? I can easily switch them. I do think they look backward that way. I've put slotted rotors on both of my Jeeps, and they are directional the opposite way, and I think look better.
Also, I will try the teflon tape instead. I placed all new brake lines in my Mustang, as the old ones ran up around the front grill, from the master cylinder. I've never had a brake fluid leak like that from any other connection. I just didn't know what to do :(
Thank you for the information. It will come in handy soon, I hope.
Wavetechlifeguardian if I can be of help I will give you my email address
kc0fjs@yahoo.com. Patrick.
I am currently building a 1957 Chevy wagon with a 598 big block Chevy 400 trans narrowed Dana 60 rear should be 85 car.
Oh, nice. So you know old cars, And big horse power. I didn't know they made big blocks that big? Sheesh! My car is still parked for the winter, but when it thaws out, I will email with questions. Thank you.
Only problem here is this guy has no idea what he is doing and should not have made a video for youtube.
Facepalm
exactly