Alkalines don't hold that voltage for very long, so 1.4 volts is perfectly fine for AA or AAA size batteries. EBLs are great for things that need a stable voltage since they're known for being of very high quality for NiMh compared to a lot of other brands.
If you do a "Nerf for Science" episode of sticking these in large numbers into blasters, I have some preliminary data that may or may not be useful. I got a ridiculous number of these exact same EBL batteries from work (free stuff = best stuff); I put 'em to work running a pair of stryfes : One has 8x in series. Just stuck a cheapo 4x AA battery holder to the side and connected it in series to the stock battery tray. 100ish FPS on stock motors and wheels. Buffed up the battery contacts, but didn't bother with a full rewire. Fun sorta "ehh why not?" kinda mod requiring next to nothing to pull off. The second one has Mieshels with Bulldog wheels. Higher current demand of the Mieshels + mass of Bulldog wheels = long spool-up time (NiMH AAs have good current capactiy relative to alkalines, but obviously not as good as dedicated RC NiMH battery packs or LiPos). I got around this by using a 16(!) battery setup: 2x (8x series). 8 are stored as in the first stryfe (stock cage + 4x AA holder slapped on the side), and 8 more hidden in the stock. To add to the absurdity, I hooked it all up to an XT30 connector, and I can charge the whole abomination in one go using a LiPo balanced charger. It's a servicable build, but reeealllyyyyy stretching the limits of sanity... Anyway, hope this gives you an idea of what to expect from cramming a ridiculous number of NiMH AAs into a blaster.
@@CaptainXavier fair, but remember: science is built on the fact that results from one source can be reliably reproduced by another ;D Cue Evil-Kermit telling you that, yes, you should definately shove 20 of these into a poor barricade or something (maybe put the batteries in the dart cylinder?)
NiMH is great if you have a battery stock. Or if your battery tray is big enough to hold whatever 2S or 3S equivalent pack you get. They need much less maintenance than a LiPo but they also need more cells to match the power of LiPos as well
Based on your suggestions years ago, my standard, superstock flywheel build includes Honeybadgers and Nimh AA batteries. With stock cages/wheels in Stryfes, I can usually hit 110+. In longer barrel blasters, i.e. Rayvens, Demolishers, or Modulus, I see closer to high 90s-100. For "spicier" builds I like a 43mm cage with Worker white wheels, and I've had Styfes tease the 130s. The white wheels are actually lighter than stock Nerf wheels and give a little added grip to darts. Under sustained fire without letting the motors fully rev, my shots are fairly consistent. Any high crush cage set-ups have a lot higher deviation between shots because of the wheel mass, and it really stresses the build. I've been running the same Energizer rechargeables for 3 years of strenuous testing, and the capacity is just now beginning to show faster depletion between recharges. My numbers are never affected, however.
Genuinely interested in this. Only reviews I found on this brand specifically from abstract people whom I can only assume English is their second language. Thank you for the information. Keep doing what you're doing boss. Take care
I bought some EBL Ni-Zn 1.6v 3000mWh. Super fun in stock blasters. Brought a stock demolisher up to about 85fps with adventure force green waffle darts from Wal-Mart.
Can confirm these batteries (brand) are solid, I used these batteries on stock nerf blasters and other things and rechargeable batteries just make sense to me! The charger they have is solid too
The gold standard for NiMH AA/AAA are the Panasonic Eneloops. I've had no problems with them and have some that I've been using for over 10 years (not daily charge cycles, once every couple of months). The EBL batteries I've had are much less reliable, the same for any other cell manufactured in China.
NIMH is great. They don't get overdrawn like lipos and are therefore much safer. NIMH batteries have a lower discharge rate so flywheels don't spin up as fast but will still hit the same top speeds. Also the power curve is relatively flat then it falls off a cliff. They have no problem with hobby grade motors, I have used smaller sub-c packs in 2s blasters with fangs and get decent playtimes. I have also made use of them in stealth battery retaliator stocks, one in the slingfire stock on my nerf cables bfg and even got one to fit in an rapidstrike/rough cut integration
PSA: 1/2" CPVC has a nice inner diameter for holding AA batteries. This permits a person to create a faux scope or other accessory to hold NiMH batteries when that chemistry is the best choice.
I may have missed it but have you ever done a video similar to these regarding LiFePO4 batteries? I’m curious what blasters handle the extra voltage? 2 AA=3.0V 1 LiFePO4=3.2V
Huge fan! I love the infinus but was restricted when it came to increasing the speed of the rear loaded and the ROF because of the control board. I tried it with the 9.6 pack and it worked great. I have fired and loaded over a 1000 darts and it had worked very smoothly.( same for the regulator) From what I’ve observed the stock nerf electronics can handle an increase in voltage to a point but the increase in current like from a lipo is what fries them. Have you done any testing with anything like this just? Im curious about your experience/opinion. Maritime foam has done a few videos on it. It seem like a safe and easy way for a person to start with flywheel mods.
General idea is that nickle metal hydride batteries have a lower internal resistance. The higher available current is supposed to make up for the 0.3 volt deficiency versus alkaline batteries
Love the videos I've got a stryfe that runs off of 6 AA battery's modded I've done it so that it has a 4 and a 2 put together with a xt60 connecter on it so I can use it but I could use a lipo if I get one and it seems to work alright I get about 129 on them
This video came at the perfect time, I've been stressing out because I want to upgrade my stampede's voltage so it can have a heavier spring without a lower rate of fire, but I'm not in a position where I'm comfortable switching to lipo at the moment Please let me know if you have any more specific advice for this use case!
Many years ago I fit in 18 AA NiMH batts in my Stampede. I used those flashlight battery holder looking things that put three AA's in series in a D sized holder. It was this very brand that I used. Hot off the charger it would be 1.5 volts and runaway like crazy, but it would settle down quickly as they hit their nominal voltage 1.2. I think I had some fat old Everbilt spring in it. Not many of those AAs survived that torture and I have since moved to a 4S lipo.
Still wish there was a NiMH pack that could handle hobby grade motors without being the size and weight of a Stampede battery tray with 6 D batteries in it. Unless that's a thing already and I don't know about it
Good advice. There is a reason the Rapidstrike uses C cells normally. That extra motor, and the fact that the flywheel FPS increases when you fire, means it is going to draw a lot more power faster.
NiMH cells don't actually have "less juice" than alkaline cells, "nominal voltage" is just a meaningless arbitrary number, selected by the manufacturers, measuring two dissimilar points along the discharge curve: NiMH batteries list the average voltage they output, for the greatest amount of time, along the discharge curve - alkaline batteries just list the *fully charged* voltage, as the nominal voltage. When fully charged, NiMH cells have that same 1.5V that the alkaline cells do (or at least, they "can" - alkaline cells are only "on average" 1.5V in the first place, and there are differences between manufacturers); the perception that alkaline cells have any advantages at all over NiMH is just marketing fiction, via listing a higher number those cells realistically spend no time at all actually outputting, as they're used, since they sag immediately.
If you're actually in the market for NiMH batteries, for Nerf purposes, of the sort that fit into stock battery trays, for "as good" or slightly improved over stock performance, then Eneloops are the gold standard; you're looking more for Airsoft sub-C packs if you want to run hobby motors on the chemistry (and probably storing them in battery stocks, because the obvious disadvantage NiMH has is the lower energy density/increased weight, so hobby-grade motors need much bulkier packs).
Alkalines don't hold that voltage for very long, so 1.4 volts is perfectly fine for AA or AAA size batteries. EBLs are great for things that need a stable voltage since they're known for being of very high quality for NiMh compared to a lot of other brands.
I intend to use NIMH AA's in my MotoBlitz at UMBC for exactly this reason
If you do a "Nerf for Science" episode of sticking these in large numbers into blasters, I have some preliminary data that may or may not be useful.
I got a ridiculous number of these exact same EBL batteries from work (free stuff = best stuff); I put 'em to work running a pair of stryfes :
One has 8x in series. Just stuck a cheapo 4x AA battery holder to the side and connected it in series to the stock battery tray. 100ish FPS on stock motors and wheels. Buffed up the battery contacts, but didn't bother with a full rewire. Fun sorta "ehh why not?" kinda mod requiring next to nothing to pull off.
The second one has Mieshels with Bulldog wheels. Higher current demand of the Mieshels + mass of Bulldog wheels = long spool-up time (NiMH AAs have good current capactiy relative to alkalines, but obviously not as good as dedicated RC NiMH battery packs or LiPos). I got around this by using a 16(!) battery setup: 2x (8x series). 8 are stored as in the first stryfe (stock cage + 4x AA holder slapped on the side), and 8 more hidden in the stock.
To add to the absurdity, I hooked it all up to an XT30 connector, and I can charge the whole abomination in one go using a LiPo balanced charger. It's a servicable build, but reeealllyyyyy stretching the limits of sanity...
Anyway, hope this gives you an idea of what to expect from cramming a ridiculous number of NiMH AAs into a blaster.
Ah, well, I might as well not bother. I can just make a video pointing to this comment and save myself a lot of effort. :P
@@CaptainXavier fair, but remember: science is built on the fact that results from one source can be reliably reproduced by another ;D
Cue Evil-Kermit telling you that, yes, you should definately shove 20 of these into a poor barricade or something (maybe put the batteries in the dart cylinder?)
NiMH is great if you have a battery stock. Or if your battery tray is big enough to hold whatever 2S or 3S equivalent pack you get. They need much less maintenance than a LiPo but they also need more cells to match the power of LiPos as well
It's all about finding safe chemistry that accomplishes exactly what you need.
Based on your suggestions years ago, my standard, superstock flywheel build includes Honeybadgers and Nimh AA batteries. With stock cages/wheels in Stryfes, I can usually hit 110+. In longer barrel blasters, i.e. Rayvens, Demolishers, or Modulus, I see closer to high 90s-100.
For "spicier" builds I like a 43mm cage with Worker white wheels, and I've had Styfes tease the 130s. The white wheels are actually lighter than stock Nerf wheels and give a little added grip to darts. Under sustained fire without letting the motors fully rev, my shots are fairly consistent. Any high crush cage set-ups have a lot higher deviation between shots because of the wheel mass, and it really stresses the build.
I've been running the same Energizer rechargeables for 3 years of strenuous testing, and the capacity is just now beginning to show faster depletion between recharges. My numbers are never affected, however.
Genuinely interested in this. Only reviews I found on this brand specifically from abstract people whom I can only assume English is their second language. Thank you for the information.
Keep doing what you're doing boss.
Take care
Thanks for this. I've been on the fence about these for a while.
I bought some EBL Ni-Zn 1.6v 3000mWh. Super fun in stock blasters. Brought a stock demolisher up to about 85fps with adventure force green waffle darts from Wal-Mart.
Nickel-Zinc ?
@Stuntmatt I assume so. That's just the advertising on Amazon. Entire listing only used the initials of the elements.
Can confirm these batteries (brand) are solid, I used these batteries on stock nerf blasters and other things and rechargeable batteries just make sense to me! The charger they have is solid too
I used to use my Stampede with 18 of these. I had them in those AA to D cell adapters but made in series.
The gold standard for NiMH AA/AAA are the Panasonic Eneloops. I've had no problems with them and have some that I've been using for over 10 years (not daily charge cycles, once every couple of months). The EBL batteries I've had are much less reliable, the same for any other cell manufactured in China.
NIMH is great. They don't get overdrawn like lipos and are therefore much safer. NIMH batteries have a lower discharge rate so flywheels don't spin up as fast but will still hit the same top speeds. Also the power curve is relatively flat then it falls off a cliff. They have no problem with hobby grade motors, I have used smaller sub-c packs in 2s blasters with fangs and get decent playtimes. I have also made use of them in stealth battery retaliator stocks, one in the slingfire stock on my nerf cables bfg and even got one to fit in an rapidstrike/rough cut integration
PSA: 1/2" CPVC has a nice inner diameter for holding AA batteries.
This permits a person to create a faux scope or other accessory to hold NiMH batteries when that chemistry is the best choice.
I may have missed it but have you ever done a video similar to these regarding LiFePO4 batteries? I’m curious what blasters handle the extra voltage?
2 AA=3.0V
1 LiFePO4=3.2V
I have, yes.
Huge fan!
I love the infinus but was restricted when it came to increasing the speed of the rear loaded and the ROF because of the control board. I tried it with the 9.6 pack and it worked great. I have fired and loaded over a 1000 darts and it had worked very smoothly.( same for the regulator) From what I’ve observed the stock nerf electronics can handle an increase in voltage to a point but the increase in current like from a lipo is what fries them.
Have you done any testing with anything like this just? Im curious about your experience/opinion.
Maritime foam has done a few videos on it. It seem like a safe and easy way for a person to start with flywheel mods.
The spectrum uses 6 AA batteries and hit about 100 FPS on stock motors. Maybe you can use that as a comparison too.
HEYYYYYY I'VE USED THESE FOR THINGS!
Ive had two melt the outer casing away while charging. But aside from that these i use on all my kids toys which saves me a tone of cash
General idea is that nickle metal hydride batteries have a lower internal resistance. The higher available current is supposed to make up for the 0.3 volt deficiency versus alkaline batteries
Love the videos I've got a stryfe that runs off of 6 AA battery's modded I've done it so that it has a 4 and a 2 put together with a xt60 connecter on it so I can use it but I could use a lipo if I get one and it seems to work alright I get about 129 on them
I use some Eneloops in a Demolisher myself anbd they work fine for me.
This video came at the perfect time, I've been stressing out because I want to upgrade my stampede's voltage so it can have a heavier spring without a lower rate of fire, but I'm not in a position where I'm comfortable switching to lipo at the moment
Please let me know if you have any more specific advice for this use case!
Many years ago I fit in 18 AA NiMH batts in my Stampede. I used those flashlight battery holder looking things that put three AA's in series in a D sized holder. It was this very brand that I used.
Hot off the charger it would be 1.5 volts and runaway like crazy, but it would settle down quickly as they hit their nominal voltage 1.2. I think I had some fat old Everbilt spring in it.
Not many of those AAs survived that torture and I have since moved to a 4S lipo.
I usually rewire my blasters to run off 8 nimh batteries and it’s a cheap and easy way to do mods
AWWWWW i have been looking for that European Stryfe, let me guess...the awesome fans again captain? Lol
Have you every considered AA/AAA formfactor LiPos? I use those for my modded gameboys
Just trying to make the Algorithm happy.
I use these in my Dart Zone MK3.
Still wish there was a NiMH pack that could handle hobby grade motors without being the size and weight of a Stampede battery tray with 6 D batteries in it. Unless that's a thing already and I don't know about it
They can handle all the motors. They don't deliver power as fast (think low c rating lipo) but they don't get overdrawn like lipos.
@@thrownblown so would that equate to a slower spin up time then since the current doesn't move as fast?
@@dragonblaster-vu8wz yeah lipos spin up in less than a second but the same voltage NIMH will be about a second
Is it okay to be mildly disappointed this wasn’t about “The Secret of NIMH” because of 40years of conditioning?
Do not get these if you want to use a Rapidstrike. Less than 20 minutes of use renders performance to the lower 50's, they seem to discharge too fast.
Good advice. There is a reason the Rapidstrike uses C cells normally. That extra motor, and the fact that the flywheel FPS increases when you fire, means it is going to draw a lot more power faster.
NiMH cells don't actually have "less juice" than alkaline cells, "nominal voltage" is just a meaningless arbitrary number, selected by the manufacturers, measuring two dissimilar points along the discharge curve: NiMH batteries list the average voltage they output, for the greatest amount of time, along the discharge curve - alkaline batteries just list the *fully charged* voltage, as the nominal voltage.
When fully charged, NiMH cells have that same 1.5V that the alkaline cells do (or at least, they "can" - alkaline cells are only "on average" 1.5V in the first place, and there are differences between manufacturers); the perception that alkaline cells have any advantages at all over NiMH is just marketing fiction, via listing a higher number those cells realistically spend no time at all actually outputting, as they're used, since they sag immediately.
If you're actually in the market for NiMH batteries, for Nerf purposes, of the sort that fit into stock battery trays, for "as good" or slightly improved over stock performance, then Eneloops are the gold standard; you're looking more for Airsoft sub-C packs if you want to run hobby motors on the chemistry (and probably storing them in battery stocks, because the obvious disadvantage NiMH has is the lower energy density/increased weight, so hobby-grade motors need much bulkier packs).
This is a witty comment.