@@2036scott hi hopefully you can answer this pls ,the render he refers to ,is what? building, sharp or plastering sand. Blaine gave no answer maybe to busy.. thanks inadvance
Legend. Doing my fireplace and I live with a plasterer. I love watching videos like this just so I can stand over his shoulder and wind him up by pretending I know what I'm on about when he knows I dont. Cant wait to say things like "dont let that multi finish bleed into the render" and "make sure you get a good finish when you wet trowel". Hes gunna love it
Just want to say what a legend you are mate. I've been watching your videos for a while now. I have just today finished plastering my chimney and rendered my fireplace ready for my log burner to go in. I have never plastered before in my life and have followed all your steps. I am over the moon with how it's turned out, considering it's my first attempt. Cheers mate 👍 Dan
I’m a plaster white over 18 years experience who has done many fireplaces.. and I don’t wanna sound salty but him stapling those beads on rather than sticking them on then putting scrim tape around them it’s going to cause nothing but problems.. he should also be using K render mesh on his scratch coat… just a little tip if anyone is listening😁
Many thanks for the tips John, it's really appreciated. I take it you use this method instead of Victas products? What would you recommend for a breast that's back to brick? I thought about fixing beads then building out with Hardwall and then finishing with multi. . Would you k rend mesh out the bonding or hardwall coat or build out with s,c,l?
Thanks m8, This vid was just what I needed to complete the same job, I didn’t have a clue on materials or how to do this...upshot is, I’m pleased to say mine turned out exactly like yours, super clear instructions, thanks again.
Very nice job, excellently narrated. I think the render looks more authentic around a fire. Have done a fair bit of plastering and you vids inspire me to have a bash at rendering one day. Doubtless I'll be watching them again if I do. Many thanks.
In my 46th year now plastering and over the last 10 years we have had more and more requests to render out fireplaces pre stove fitting, at the beginning soot stains were a problem but we have never had a problem when using anti-sulphate cement, rendering sand and lime.
Great video. You make it look so easy, whereas the reality is far from. Beautiful finish there and the homeowner was very fortunate to have you working for them.
Hi, I was a hetas stove installer since 2002 until last year. Nice vid but I used to grind the surface of the bricks in the recess and grind out the brick joints, then prep the surface for the first coat render by splashing the bricks with a slurry of sharp sand and cement in a wet mix, the scratch coat would really bite onto this, use the comb as you say to help the top coat, and apply second coat of render finished off with a wet sponge. Never use pva as it releases its grip with heat!
Nice job mate, I did cement work my whole life (tile,brick,and concrete) my dad showed me a trick from an old mason . Wash your hands with sugar , pulls all the impurities out of your skin… keep on teaching your skills.
Blaine (sp?), another awesome vid, I always enjoy watching your skills and expertise. You explain things in great detail and are a testament to your trade. I'm across the pond in Massachusetts, USA. Though the plaster materials are a bit different here, still the techniques and applications are the same. Love watching those from the land where plastering has been alive for over 2000 years. Excellent stuff! I appreciate your diligence and attention to detail. Keep 'spreading' the trade. Thanks for sharing!! Steve Huntress/
Looks great. A so called heat installer used fire board in the space where he installed my log burner. Defra approved, of course! 18 months later, the board at the back had a big crack in it. He said You need to replace the fireboard every couple of years 😮. Yeah right. Heat weren't much help either. And, there's no annoying supermarket muzak.
Thank you. This is exactly what I was looking for for the inside of my fireplace! I do have an issue where the front brick doesn't come all the way down. And my lintel and damper casing are exposed. It originally had some (probably not heat rated) cement over the casing and the lintel fell when I removed slate that was cemented over top the brick. Any suggestions on videos to watch for that would be greatly appreciated! Thanks so much again and great work. Motivated to get started!
Top job that there pal, I've never tried rendering the internal section for the log burner, but I'll be doing that next time, keep up the good work man
Very good job, I alternatively have done several fireplaces, I totally agree right the issues you raise but I actually render with NHL2.5 lime sharp sand scratch 4to1 and plastering sand 4.1 finish ,this approach I created myself mix wise the ratios are same but the sand is softer in second coat so equates to a weaker mix I just found this works I find line retards any ash and also lots old fire places built with lime so marry the two together, also it leaves a lighter colour that is natural and not so dark ,like I say its worked for me forgot go mention I will through horse hair In scratch coat
Was looking for a comment like this! I want to use cement boards in my fireplace ready for the burner- what sort of adhesive do you use for dot and dabbing? Also do you recommend a particular brand of cement board? Thanks!
This process is known as blinding dry kiln sand gives a much better key and spreads more evenly giving you more or less total coverage of the bitumen therfore a much better key great job though love the vids keep up the good work👍
Great video. As a tip (I'm not a plasterer, just something I saw recently and I'm not entirely sure how he did it, I'm in no position to give advice but maybe you can work out how its done), if you put the stop bead backwards, at the top, it'll give a nice tidy lip for the register plate to sit into
Wow 😯 what craftsmanship! Ive learned so much but now I have so many more questions 🤷♀️ First, is the bead simply to support the plaster and render? I happened upon your vid during a sleepless midnight TH-cam spiral, I was looking for information on fireplaces. I have a new house with a gas fireplace and was wondering if it would be worth the trouble to convert it to a wood burning fireplace (I’m out in a wooded area, so plenty of wood, but gas is expensive). Aslo, why do so many wood burning fireplaces in older buildings get stoves installed, is it for efficiency, is it a trend? I know my questions sound silly, I’m really just ignorant having grown up in the tropics and now living in a colder climate.
Would the surface on the inside of the old fireplace take tiles? Great video and really told me how to create on old fireplace into somewhere for a woodburner. Many thanks and it is of great value.
Hi, I am going to render the the inside of my fireplace like this thank you! The side of the chimney breast has completely blown, not sure if this is something to do with old back burner pipes. If I am going to re do this can I use hard wall then multi finish on the outside of the chimney breast? Thanks!
Once again, another great video. Always a Joy watching you plaster. Was wondering once you painted the wall with that liquid dpm, could you not have used blue grid?
Thank you so much for watching! I really appreciate that mate. You could Blue grit on top I suppose matey...I just don't like waiting for a day ha! But yeah...that would work think 👍
I've got a similar job starting soon and this has given me a great insight into how it's done 👍 I have one question; how long do you have to wait between ruling it off and floating it?
Very informative vid, thanks! I'm interested to know more about the soot bleeding through, so when the fire area gets hot it somehow brings soot out or what exactly? Looks like you have to be quite careful with measures to keep it back!
Nice vid, I would always scrim the stop beads now tho as they can crack especially with only been stapled on and the heat they are exposed to, it has happened to me 😆
Absolutely stunning work Blaine. I'll be watching this a few more times. What are those work bottoms you've got on? They look very nice and comfortable!
I've taken the old tiles from the inside of the fire place and taken of the loose and cracked plaster and render back to the brick work. What mix should I use on the bricks to level before applying brick slips to the render. Thanks
Good job never seen the bitumen used this way. When wall gets red hot I thought it might melt. I like to run scrim tape down wall beads to stop cracking. I use cement boards to line bricks then tile or paint.
Cheers pal! The 2 coats of cement stop it from meeting I think - it's never let me down ha! Good idea about the scrim and i know a lot of guys who just use cement board. It's works the same way! Thanks for watching pal, hope you're well 👍
@@RichardConnor1 I use window fitters screws. No plug needed and cover screw top with fire cement, if painting with hi heat paint . Use fire cement behind boards to level boards if needed.
@@Ianf1x Excellent, thank you. Do you ever render over the cement board? Could I use the cement board to get a flat surface and then render it to get that 'look'?
@@RichardConnor1 I have not rendered over only tiled on top . When I render I start by using s.b.r. mixed with cement only brush on bricks as a slurry . 4soft sand 1 cement half lime scratch coat. Then 5 sand 1 cement 1 lime.
How long before the stove can be installed and lit? I'm in the middle of doing mine and the missus wants it in before christmas. It's a big 20kw one with a back boiler. This video is so helpful already man, thanks!!
I always dab interiors with Fermacell powerpanel, which is designed for the heat and much quicker, although I like the look of the rendered interior. That opening looks very small and will get really hot; I try and aim for 900mm high x min 800mm wide. Great work though!
Very nice work . Alot of work when you could dot and dab fermacell board in recess . Also if the stove is pretruding the recess the plaster work above will crack . U can put granite slips or slate . Whatevever the hearth is made from (goalposts) around recess too avoid this . Not being critical u r very good jst for people watching . NIce job.
I enjoyed your video, great tip and advice very informative. I have a question, do i need 1 part Lime? tried getting a small bag of it but could only find it in 25k bags. Thank you
Great content on your channel- very detailed and informative! I do have a question however- I am doing similar to my chimney breast, but due to previous shoddy brickwork I had to hack back to brick and repair. Do I set corner beading straight to the brickwork before the scratch coat? Or Chuck the scratch coat on and use thinner beads? I’m using a lime/cement mortar for the scratch before the multi finish top coats. I had thought I could use battens to set the depth of the scratch, then sit beads on for the first plaster coat. But I’ve also seen others head straight onto the brick and judge the scratch coat depth, so I’m a tad confused 🫤
clean job done, what kind of plaster is that brown finish? here in the netherlands we use gipsum plaster is it kind of the same or different substance?
I've recenrly had a burner installed and it looks like some of my plaster has cracked after using the burner around the top. Am i okay to just apply some polyfilla to the crack
I fit fires for a living and the plasters who get the inside wrong is unreal .... this is how it should be done..... very nice work mate
Thank you very much mate! I really appreciate that...cheers 👍
@@PlasteringForBeginners great workmanship, just curious what could I put in the render to make it black rather then grey ..
@@paulsimpson2232 Cement colourant.
Plasterer of 24 years here. Got my first fireplace,
to do as a return job for a waller. Your video has helped a lot 👍🏼
@@2036scott hi hopefully you can answer this pls ,the render he refers to ,is what? building, sharp or plastering sand. Blaine gave no answer maybe to busy.. thanks inadvance
Legend. Doing my fireplace and I live with a plasterer. I love watching videos like this just so I can stand over his shoulder and wind him up by pretending I know what I'm on about when he knows I dont. Cant wait to say things like "dont let that multi finish bleed into the render" and "make sure you get a good finish when you wet trowel". Hes gunna love it
Just want to say what a legend you are mate. I've been watching your videos for a while now. I have just today finished plastering my chimney and rendered my fireplace ready for my log burner to go in. I have never plastered before in my life and have followed all your steps. I am over the moon with how it's turned out, considering it's my first attempt.
Cheers mate 👍
Dan
What a great job you have done I can see you take great pride in your work its nice to see that these days well done.
I love watching a skilled tradesperson, I'm fortunate a friend of ours is a plasterer as it's not a skill I have. Great overview, thanks.
I’m a plaster white over 18 years experience who has done many fireplaces.. and I don’t wanna sound salty but him stapling those beads on rather than sticking them on then putting scrim tape around them it’s going to cause nothing but problems.. he should also be using K render mesh on his scratch coat… just a little tip if anyone is listening😁
Many thanks for the tips John, it's really appreciated. I take it you use this method instead of Victas products? What would you recommend for a breast that's back to brick? I thought about fixing beads then building out with Hardwall and then finishing with multi. . Would you k rend mesh out the bonding or hardwall coat or build out with s,c,l?
I was going to have a go and try and fit a log burner , in the fireplace , after watching your video …. I’ll get a bloke in to do it 👍👍😂
Great video
same LOL not point me messing it up - hope yours worked out well
Great video mate, looking to open up my chimney and get it sorted. This was very informative and loved the finish, top job!
Thanks m8, This vid was just what I needed to complete the same job, I didn’t have a clue on materials or how to do this...upshot is, I’m pleased to say mine turned out exactly like yours, super clear instructions, thanks again.
Very nice job, excellently narrated. I think the render looks more authentic around a fire. Have done a fair bit of plastering and you vids inspire me to have a bash at rendering one day. Doubtless I'll be watching them again if I do. Many thanks.
Thanks matey and thank you for watching our videos. Good luck my friend - keep us posted 👍
excellent tutorial, well narated and great skillz. Just thinkimg of doing this so thanks very much bud.
Legend! Great talk through soo much useful information!
Another great informative video, thanks - will come in handy at some stage in my early stages of my plastering career.
Thank you for watching. I really appreciate it 👍
In my 46th year now plastering and over the last 10 years we have had more and more requests to render out fireplaces pre stove fitting, at the beginning soot stains were a problem but we have never had a problem when using anti-sulphate cement, rendering sand and lime.
Outstanding , attention to detail throughout . Worth every penny, regardless of cost.
Thank you very much!
Excellent work very professional
Fantastic work, thank you for the advice
Beautiful!
Excellent video mate answerd all my questions, cracking job son 👍
Very smart result, thanks for explaining and demonstrating.
Thanks for watching mate!
Very well explained and a great watch nice to see a master craftsman at work to such a high standard
Great video. You make it look so easy, whereas the reality is far from. Beautiful finish there and the homeowner was very fortunate to have you working for them.
Great tutorial, very detailed!
Looks absolutely stunning.
Thank you very much!!
All your videos are great but this is definitely the best one yet
Absolute work of art that mate pure perfection
Wow...thank you so much for saying!! I really appreciate that - your opinion means the world to me so thanks for that!! Hope you're well my friend 👍
That looks really awesome Blanie Gray I like whatching your videos
Hi,
I was a hetas stove installer since 2002 until last year. Nice vid but I used to grind the surface of the bricks in the recess and grind out the brick joints, then prep the surface for the first coat render by splashing the bricks with a slurry of sharp sand and cement in a wet mix, the scratch coat would really bite onto this, use the comb as you say to help the top coat, and apply second coat of render finished off with a wet sponge.
Never use pva as it releases its grip with heat!
Fabulous job and you are a master of plastering. Which is probably the hardest trade to get right.
Thank you!
Unreal video man.A true professional..
What an amazing tradesman you are. Such skill and passion. Most don’t give a F…
Nice job mate, I did cement work my whole life (tile,brick,and concrete) my dad showed me a trick from an old mason . Wash your hands with sugar , pulls all the impurities out of your skin… keep on teaching your skills.
Awesome work 👏
That’s a LOVELY finish!
Ha thank you my friend. I really appreciate that ☺️
Spot on 👍 mate
Proper Job !
Must be lovely to have this sort of skill. Looks great mate
A pleasure to watch, thanks 👍🏻
Cheers matey!!
Lovely finish, great work!
Thank you!!
Blaine (sp?), another awesome vid, I always enjoy watching your skills and expertise. You explain things in great detail and are a testament to your trade. I'm across the pond in Massachusetts, USA. Though the plaster materials are a bit different here, still the techniques and applications are the same. Love watching those from the land where plastering has been alive for over 2000 years. Excellent stuff! I appreciate your diligence and attention to detail. Keep 'spreading' the trade. Thanks for sharing!!
Steve Huntress/
Work of art.
Thank you so much!!
Perfect!
Looks great. A so called heat installer used fire board in the space where he installed my log burner. Defra approved, of course! 18 months later, the board at the back had a big crack in it. He said You need to replace the fireboard every couple of years 😮. Yeah right. Heat weren't much help either.
And, there's no annoying supermarket muzak.
Proper job
Thank you. This is exactly what I was looking for for the inside of my fireplace! I do have an issue where the front brick doesn't come all the way down. And my lintel and damper casing are exposed. It originally had some (probably not heat rated) cement over the casing and the lintel fell when I removed slate that was cemented over top the brick. Any suggestions on videos to watch for that would be greatly appreciated! Thanks so much again and great work. Motivated to get started!
Oh wow Blaine, this is the one I’ve been waiting for! Cannot wait to watch this!
I thought about you when I uploaded this matey ha! Hope it helps my friend...I know you've asked for this for quite some time now!
@@PlasteringForBeginners as ever thank you for all the help buddy. Going to watch this at work tonight.
Great job Blaine 👍🏻
Thank you mate!!
Brilliant 👍
What a video!! thanks allot
Good job 👌🏻
A wonderful job well done 👍
Thank you matey!
Top job that there pal, I've never tried rendering the internal section for the log burner, but I'll be doing that next time, keep up the good work man
Thanks pal. I really appreciate it - Happy NY to you 👍
Very good job, I alternatively have done several fireplaces, I totally agree right the issues you raise but I actually render with NHL2.5 lime sharp sand scratch 4to1 and plastering sand 4.1 finish ,this approach I created myself mix wise the ratios are same but the sand is softer in second coat so equates to a weaker mix I just found this works I find line retards any ash and also lots old fire places built with lime so marry the two together, also it leaves a lighter colour that is natural and not so dark ,like I say its worked for me forgot go mention I will through horse hair In scratch coat
Any cement in either coats? Or just lime only?
Absolutely brilliant video thank you very much.
Thank you for watching my friend 👍
Thank you for watching my friend 👍
Very good looking job 👍
Cheers pal. I really appreciate that!
This guy takes real pride in his work, just a shame all plasterers dont work to this standard to do the job properly !
fantastic video
Thank you so much!!
Great tips 👍👍👍👍
Thank you matey!!
Great vid.
Cheers pal!! Thanks for watching
Interesting and informative
Thank you very much!!
Excelente trabajo 👌👌 saludos desde Chile 🇨🇱👌💯
Cheers matey 👍👍👍
Excellent buddy 👍🏻
Cheers mate!!
Damn you're a perfectionist . Top job 👍🏻
Thank you!!
First class!
Looks good sand to float up with magic sponge does the job 👍👍😂🇬🇧
Top video pal.
Thank you so much!!
Great job . I have done many but always use cement boards dot and dabbed and it has always worked well . But great to see your way
Was looking for a comment like this! I want to use cement boards in my fireplace ready for the burner- what sort of adhesive do you use for dot and dabbing? Also do you recommend a particular brand of cement board? Thanks!
Plasterboard addessives what you need and wickes cement boards are a nice size and not too expensive
@@Liamnel5on cheers, does it need to be a fire rated plasterboard adhesive or can I just use standard stuff?
Just normal plasterboard addessive . make sure it's going back against as clean and dust free a background as possible
Sooo nicely
Done excellent why can’t all builders do this
Got a fireplace like this that I was wondering how best to tackle in the future. Now I know!
Great stuff 😊
nice work
Thank you very much!!
This process is known as blinding dry kiln sand gives a much better key and spreads more evenly giving you more or less total coverage of the bitumen therfore a much better key great job though love the vids keep up the good work👍
Great explanation and thank you for watching. I really appreciate it…cheers pal
love you to come and do my area mate!! Fantastic...
Great video. As a tip (I'm not a plasterer, just something I saw recently and I'm not entirely sure how he did it, I'm in no position to give advice but maybe you can work out how its done), if you put the stop bead backwards, at the top, it'll give a nice tidy lip for the register plate to sit into
Interesting idea, , I have always wondered how this junction should be addressed. Pretty poorly with my install that's for sure.
Wow 😯 what craftsmanship! Ive learned so much but now I have so many more questions 🤷♀️ First, is the bead simply to support the plaster and render?
I happened upon your vid during a sleepless midnight TH-cam spiral, I was looking for information on fireplaces. I have a new house with a gas fireplace and was wondering if it would be worth the trouble to convert it to a wood burning fireplace (I’m out in a wooded area, so plenty of wood, but gas is expensive). Aslo, why do so many wood burning fireplaces in older buildings get stoves installed, is it for efficiency, is it a trend? I know my questions sound silly, I’m really just ignorant having grown up in the tropics and now living in a colder climate.
Would the surface on the inside of the old fireplace take tiles? Great video and really told me how to create on old fireplace into somewhere for a woodburner. Many thanks and it is of great value.
Hi, I am going to render the the inside of my fireplace like this thank you! The side of the chimney breast has completely blown, not sure if this is something to do with old back burner pipes. If I am going to re do this can I use hard wall then multi finish on the outside of the chimney breast?
Thanks!
Once again, another great video. Always a Joy watching you plaster. Was wondering once you painted the wall with that liquid dpm, could you not have used blue grid?
Thank you so much for watching! I really appreciate that mate. You could Blue grit on top I suppose matey...I just don't like waiting for a day ha! But yeah...that would work think 👍
I've got a similar job starting soon and this has given me a great insight into how it's done 👍 I have one question; how long do you have to wait between ruling it off and floating it?
nooice
Very informative vid, thanks! I'm interested to know more about the soot bleeding through, so when the fire area gets hot it somehow brings soot out or what exactly? Looks like you have to be quite careful with measures to keep it back!
Something to do with salts? Not sure
Nice vid, I would always scrim the stop beads now tho as they can crack especially with only been stapled on and the heat they are exposed to, it has happened to me 😆
Thanks for the heads up mate! Good to know 👍👍
Absolutely stunning work Blaine. I'll be watching this a few more times.
What are those work bottoms you've got on? They look very nice and comfortable!
Thanks Marcus! That's means a lot to me mate. They are Ox work trousers...I must admit they are pretty good. They are comfortable 👍
I've taken the old tiles from the inside of the fire place and taken of the loose and cracked plaster and render back to the brick work.
What mix should I use on the bricks to level before applying brick slips to the render.
Thanks
Good job never seen the bitumen used this way. When wall gets red hot I thought it might melt. I like to run scrim tape down wall beads to stop cracking. I use cement boards to line bricks then tile or paint.
Cheers pal! The 2 coats of cement stop it from meeting I think - it's never let me down ha! Good idea about the scrim and i know a lot of guys who just use cement board. It's works the same way! Thanks for watching pal, hope you're well 👍
Ian, how do you fix the cement board to the bricks? I guess that you use render?
@@RichardConnor1 I use window fitters screws. No plug needed and cover screw top with fire cement, if painting with hi heat paint . Use fire cement behind boards to level boards if needed.
@@Ianf1x Excellent, thank you. Do you ever render over the cement board? Could I use the cement board to get a flat surface and then render it to get that 'look'?
@@RichardConnor1 I have not rendered over only tiled on top . When I render I start by using s.b.r. mixed with cement only brush on bricks as a slurry . 4soft sand 1 cement half lime scratch coat. Then 5 sand 1 cement 1 lime.
How long before the stove can be installed and lit?
I'm in the middle of doing mine and the missus wants it in before christmas. It's a big 20kw one with a back boiler.
This video is so helpful already man, thanks!!
Nice trick with the bitumen/sand! I’ve seen something similar with pva glue and sand on slates since they don’t hold mortar that well.
Cheers mate...I hope it's helped! Thanks for watching 👍
I always dab interiors with Fermacell powerpanel, which is designed for the heat and much quicker, although I like the look of the rendered interior. That opening looks very small and will get really hot; I try and aim for 900mm high x min 800mm wide. Great work though!
I know a few people who do it this way to be fair...it sounds like a good way to do it! Thanks for the comment and your insights. Cheers 👍
Are you saying you can cover the brick work by dot and dabbing with the sheet material? What adhesive can you use? Can I message you dreckly? Cheers.
@@georgeatkins6414 Yes, with regular dab adhesive. I use it on all of my installations. Feel free to pm me :)
what the best mix to point brick slips inside the fireplace before I refit my wood burning stove ? really good informative video pal .
Very nice work . Alot of work when you could dot and dab fermacell board in recess . Also if the stove is pretruding the recess the plaster work above will crack . U can put granite slips or slate . Whatevever the hearth is made from (goalposts) around recess too avoid this . Not being critical u r very good jst for people watching . NIce job.
A silly question,but what sand are you using on the render coats?
Excellent tutorial, can I ask what you would use on the wall face with an inset stove?
Thanks.
Great job, I wonder if my fire will look like that afterwards???
I enjoyed your video, great tip and advice very informative.
I have a question, do i need 1 part Lime? tried getting a small bag of it but could only find it in 25k bags. Thank you
Great content on your channel- very detailed and informative!
I do have a question however- I am doing similar to my chimney breast, but due to previous shoddy brickwork I had to hack back to brick and repair.
Do I set corner beading straight to the brickwork before the scratch coat? Or Chuck the scratch coat on and use thinner beads?
I’m using a lime/cement mortar for the scratch before the multi finish top coats.
I had thought I could use battens to set the depth of the scratch, then sit beads on for the first plaster coat. But I’ve also seen others head straight onto the brick and judge the scratch coat depth, so I’m a tad confused 🫤
Great video.Can the finished render be painted.What paint would you recommend.Thanks.
clean job done, what kind of plaster is that brown finish? here in the netherlands we use gipsum plaster is it kind of the same or different substance?
what depth of stop bead are you using Blaine?
I've recenrly had a burner installed and it looks like some of my plaster has cracked after using the burner around the top. Am i okay to just apply some polyfilla to the crack
What did you do about the hairline crack on the chimney breast reveals where you used the stop bead?
Thanks, I have watched this many times just to get ideas although I do have one question, what lime do you use for the final coat mix please? Lee
What about the dpm line on the house ? Do you stay above that or seal over it ?