You should have used a 6 pt socket instead of a 12. You risked rounding off the hexogonal head of the bolt. You only need to drain a couple of gallons and not the whole tank. Using teflon tape instead of pipe dope you risk interrupting the electrolysis effect which might prevent the anode rod from doing it's job.
love how they got it in the middle of the room with no pipes going to it creating the idea situation.... meanwhile mine in tucked in a alcove and the rod is behind the water inlets.
@@1-Tom-Plumber ....the ingredients in the water will reaxt with the submerged anode rod.....that interaction is what does the trick. There is no electrical need for the anode rod thread to "conduct" to the tank's connection.....
The spot where the anode rod on my AO Smith Proline ENS-50 has just a hard plastic cover. You can’t see the anode rod. It’s really tight as well. Does it just pop off to gain access to the anode rod? It seems to be on there really tight.
You SHOULD NOT drain the tank. Just drain a couple gallons. You want the weight of the water to help keep the tank in place when applying pressure to the bolt. Also, every tank I've seen uses a 1 1/16" socket.
Only remove a few gallons...don't drain completely. You want the water weight in the tank to help counter the difficulty in removing the anode....and an energized water heating element in an empty tank is a no-go too.
Okay, what's the secret to loosening the anode rod from a relatively new AO Smith tank? I have the same socket and wrench that you have and the rod will not loosen.
Came out to my garage Monday morning and found my electric water heater leaking from the top. The hot water nipple looked pretty corroded had both hot &cold switched out earlier today. Come back and looks like the spot where the anode rod is, is leaking now. It also looks pretty rusted and can't get it to break loose, any suggestions?
yes, new water heater ... You do not want bursts or flame problems from leaks, etc. Leaks cause internal rust and weak spots. Hard (expensive) but so much better (no big worries) better hot water and economy. Very important appliance. It is a bad day when one fails. all the Best!
Many plumbers WON'T remove the rod without on a 5 year old tank. They either can't get it out due to rust or tear out the threads. They'd rather suggest for the tank replacement.
Then do it yourself, I just did mine at 7 years, had no issues at all. And to test things, I only cleaned mine and did not buy a new rod. I hope that is a good idea, will check it in a year unless anyone things this is a bad idea.
Not that easy when theres a motor mounted on top. Practically covering the plug for the rod. My heater is only 2 yrs old. A. O. Smith. The one rwplaced was 15 yrs old before needing replaced. Quality of a ything today is crap.
L0L.....why didn't you 𝙧𝙚𝙖𝙡𝙡𝙮 show what it's like to get an 𝙤𝙡𝙙 𝙬𝙤𝙧𝙣 𝙤𝙪𝙩 anode rod out of an 𝗶𝗻𝘀𝘁𝗮𝗹𝗹𝗲𝗱 water heater. I paused your video at 2½ minutes to comment....then went to another TH-cam channel.
You should have used a 6 pt socket instead of a 12. You risked rounding off the hexogonal head of the bolt. You only need to drain a couple of gallons and not the whole tank. Using teflon tape instead of pipe dope you risk interrupting the electrolysis effect which might prevent the anode rod from doing it's job.
Great vid! I'm confused on one thing though, why does this boiler require a 1-1/8 socket when the standard is 1-1/16?
love how they got it in the middle of the room with no pipes going to it creating the idea situation.... meanwhile mine in tucked in a alcove and the rod is behind the water inlets.
You should leave some of the thread exposed to ground to the tank or the rod will not work to its full potential.
Todd, you're right! Thanks for the solid input!. Always helpful.
The metal threads will cut through.
@@1-Tom-Plumber ....the ingredients in the water will reaxt with the submerged anode rod.....that interaction is what does the trick. There is no electrical need for the anode rod thread to "conduct" to the tank's connection.....
The spot where the anode rod on my AO Smith Proline ENS-50 has just a hard plastic cover. You can’t see the anode rod. It’s really tight as well. Does it just pop off to gain access to the anode rod? It seems to be on there really tight.
You SHOULD NOT drain the tank. Just drain a couple gallons. You want the weight of the water to help keep the tank in place when applying pressure to the bolt. Also, every tank I've seen uses a 1 1/16" socket.
yes, do not allow tank movement! Make sure you drain enough as floors and water above the tank will carry water!!!
Can I put vinager through this hole to clena my boiler?
I think the correct size is 1-1/16".... or 27mm ( they're identical in size).....
So you don't have to shut off power when you drain the tank? I was worried it might burn out the elements when I emptied the tank.
Yes definitely turn off the power to the tank
@SegerSyanide
Make sure to smoke a cigarette while working or it won't break loose.... lots of cussing helps too.
🤦🏻♂️
Only remove a few gallons...don't drain completely. You want the water weight in the tank to help counter the difficulty in removing the anode....and an energized water heating element in an empty tank is a no-go too.
Okay, what's the secret to loosening the anode rod from a relatively new AO Smith tank? I have the same socket and wrench that you have and the rod will not loosen.
Impact driver
@@timd9430 The rod was so tight an impact driver did not workl
4:11
Cross-thread the FUCK out of it...
...ooooooor hand thread first with JUST the socket.... then tighten with rachet.
Came out to my garage Monday morning and found my electric water heater leaking from the top. The hot water nipple looked pretty corroded had both hot &cold switched out earlier today. Come back and looks like the spot where the anode rod is, is leaking now. It also looks pretty rusted and can't get it to break loose, any suggestions?
yes, new water heater ... You do not want bursts or flame problems from leaks, etc. Leaks cause internal rust and weak spots. Hard (expensive) but so much better (no big worries) better hot water and economy. Very important appliance. It is a bad day when one fails. all the Best!
Many plumbers WON'T remove the rod without on a 5 year old tank. They either can't get it out due to rust or tear out the threads.
They'd rather suggest for the tank replacement.
That's true, George. Good addition to the info!
Then do it yourself, I just did mine at 7 years, had no issues at all. And to test things, I only cleaned mine and did not buy a new rod. I hope that is a good idea, will check it in a year unless anyone things this is a bad idea.
I change my anod rod but it still smells
anal rods do smell.
So damn tight the bolt is. You should at least try breaking it loose BEFORE doing everything else first.
Aren't ypu supposed to turn off the water to the tank and turn off the breaker????? Seriously guys!!
Not that easy when theres a motor mounted on top. Practically covering the plug for the rod. My heater is only 2 yrs old. A. O. Smith. The one rwplaced was 15 yrs old before needing replaced. Quality of a ything today is crap.
L0L.....why didn't you 𝙧𝙚𝙖𝙡𝙡𝙮 show what it's like to get an 𝙤𝙡𝙙 𝙬𝙤𝙧𝙣 𝙤𝙪𝙩 anode rod out of an 𝗶𝗻𝘀𝘁𝗮𝗹𝗹𝗲𝗱 water heater. I paused your video at 2½ minutes to comment....then went to another TH-cam channel.