Would it be safe to use an anti-seize spray/penetrating catalyst if I cant remove the rod with a breaker bar without rotating the whole tank and I dont have a impact wrench?
@@marcactivator1413 I'd only ensure you something food safe and not an automotive type chemical for the obvious reason of the intended device. It may also simply not be enough to really do anything of significance on an older crusty tank never seeing any maintenance. Suggest you borrow an impact wrench if you don't want to buy one.
Great video. As a new homeowner I wasn't aware of this. Good things i clicked on this video after learning about water heater maintenance in hard water areas. Thank you. Subbing to learn more
Thanks for the great video. The factory installed anodes are a pain to remove. Didn't have an impact wrench. Used an 18" breaker bar with a 2' iron pipe as an extension. Also, let a couple of ice cubes melt on the top of the anode. This did the trick. Also, be sure to check the length of anode needed for your hot water model. The 44" flex magnesium anode comes in four sections. I had to snip off the bottom one with bolt cutters to make it the proper length.
Thank you so much! All super useful info, especially the different lengths of the rods. If it was so complicated for you, this gal may have to lose this battle and leave it to a plumber, I was planning on just using parrot pliers and a screw driver to loosen up the top of the rod. Don’t have many other tools. The top looks so engrained and flush (if that is actually the rod) that I thought it wasn’t removable. In fact, will look the model up, some now come without a rod (“modern” design -expensive disposable appliances!)
Thanks for your video. I was assigned to change one today but I’ve never heard of one of these. I’ve never done this job. I came on here watch this video and I think I’ll be all right. this what happens when you just try to make a living and you lie on the résumé, thanks for your great video.
You're welcome! Yup, just make sure water is off/partially drained, you've got an impact or huge breaker bar if it's the style like mind. Theres another style of anode rod if you can't find the hex but. Usually on Bradford whites in my experience 👍🏼
This video is perfect, concisely gets to the point without being a half hour long. Im just wondering how I'm going to get the rod out. I'm fairly certain I dont have 40" of space above the heater.
Thanks! One thing you can do,unscrew it and cut the rod under the threads. Let it fall back in and to the bottom. Never done this but it won't hurt anything there and it will actually be beneficial and help your new rod, as I'm sure it still has some life it in. Or You can't pull it out, put vise scrips at the base. And cut it, and keep doing that until it's out. Take it out in sections. Then Click on my link in description and buy the num-chuck looking one that is flexible 👍🏼 hope this helps
@@HandymanHertz Ok, I think that might work. I probably have between 25" to 30" of clearance, so I'd probably only have to cut it once. I saw the numchuck style in the link, I'm definitely using that kind.
In my area I've seen water heaters last little as 1-3 years. Acidic well water is the most common reason and easy to treat. Chlorides (from road salt) found in wells along highways and roads will also do this but is much less common. Also a powered anode rod will last much longer and eliminate the rotten egg odor if it's not coming from the well.
Great video, very clear and informative. Thank you. What brand or type of anode rod would you recommend to use in a propane heated water heater? Thanks, Z
I use the one on Amazon, and there's a link in my description below. if you click on the link in my description, I'll get a dollar or two just for you clicking on it. It has really good reviews and I've had no problems whatsoever with this. From the look and feel, it seems very high-quality.
Thank you. This is good to know. I will show this to my husband. I have been seeing some super tiny black residue like you sprinkled it in the bottom of tub. If you wipe it, it just streaks. You have to actually use a cleaner on it. I was trying to figure out where it was coming from. ....the shower head, faucet....someone not rinsing out the tub after a shower. 😮😮😮 One day i had to run some hot water and i noticed these tiny tiny black specks in the water. They were so tiny that anyone would have missed them but when you drained the tub you would see them. When you wipe them with a cloth or paper towel, they remind me of the dark ash particles when you burn pine. Waxy or like a grease pencil. The house is 24 yrs old and this is the 2nd water heater. There is what some people say as hard water, 2 months a year but no one has water softners, i dont have hardwater stains or buildup on any of the faucets. Opinion? Could that be what is causing this ????? That rod?
That’s Interesting, I havnt personally experienced this out of a faucet/tub. My first thought would be to flush your hot water heater. All of the sediments over the years settled to the bottom, and could get stirred up and flow into your faucets. I’ll have a video on here to do that in a day or two. It could be that an anode rod, but I don’t think so. I think if it was that noticeable, and that much, you would have to change out that anode rod very very often. Maybe someone else can jump in here on the comments and help you out. Possible that it’s something in your well or city water?
@HandymanHertz it is possible now that you say that. I live near the foothills of the Northern Colorado Rockies. We had those massive fires in 2020... I don't know if you have ever been here, but it even burned above timberline in an area where there aren't trees, just sparsely growing shrubs and grass clumps. Lots of rock. We had ash on our cars, sidewalks, grass, sometimes close to an inch thick in the morning. Used the leaf blower constantly. I even had chunks of burnt wood, and one morning, there was a beautiful aspen leaf on my car, but when I touched it, it disappeared. It was ash. We live over 30 miles from the beginning of the canyons and the fire. The fires were everywhere but were massive for CO. The rain and snow melt goes into the Big Thompson river, which is our water source. If I think back, the black isn't constant. I can clean the tub and not see the black, and this can go several weeks. Unfortunately.....I haven't paid attention to it and the weather together to see if it matches up to times when we have had moisture. I do know some areas are still dealing with soil erosion and roads washing out. I don't know how long it takes for that much ash to decompose. We had a lot of flooding this spring, which would cause Ash still hidden, not decomposed to wash downstream. I could also just be grasping at straws. It's good to know about that rod, though. The way it wipes or sticks reminds me of pine ash....exactly. the river at one time was flowing with black water. We used bottled water, but they said it was fine to drink it. I don't really trust that.
@gsdmom1194 hmm, that makes sense to me. They sell whole house filters that filters all of the water that comes in your house. I’m not sure how fine of particles it filters out, it may not work with your issue.
Wow! How did we miss this all these years!!! We gotta get on this now! Thanks! This video needs to go viral! Everyone has at least 1 or more hot water heaters!!! 👍
I'm pretty sure I have the same water heater as you (it's at least the same brand and looks the same) but where your anode rod is I have a copper pipe coming out that goes to an outside wall and has what looks like a pressure release valve? My manual says the anode rod should be up there next to the water pipes so I'm unclear what is going on and what I should do.
Yes, some pressure relief valves are on the side, and some are on the top. Do not take that apart, there's a separate place to remove the anode rod. I believe the only exception is Bradford White, that uses a special and Rod that's a part of the, hot water nipple. If you have Bradford, you'll be better off googling this.
Question. I have a 40-gallon rheem electric water heater, and there's 2 caps on top, and a small one and a litter bigger one. How do I know where the rod is ? Also, on the bigger one, there's some wire running around. And last, there's some corrosión on the bottom of the tank. Thank you.
Lady here, one that has no clue but determined to do this because of budget. Also, I have no specific tools, was planning on using parrot pliers, screw driver (to pull cap up), and nothing else. Doable? Or do I buy another tool that I will never use? Tips to loosen up the rod for removal? It may be my wrist issue, but I can hardly open a can of mayo, and I see you are using a lot of muscle. Do I flush with heater on, or should it be off? Completely flush? I think I read somewhere that it wasn’t a good idea because the loose rust would mess something up. But HOW do I know how much I drained? HandymanHertz, I wish you were nearby... the more I think the more difficult it looks. Nobody should buy a house without passing a training class on how to maintain every appliance in the building.
Yes you will need special tool for removing the anode rod. Maybe borrow some from friends or family? You should shut off the water heater any time you work in it. The more you drain, the better. Good luck
I take it out partly every year, but intact and with no eaten away spots. My awesome plumber installed a water heater with 2 of them, and I am thinking that the permanent one is more sacrificial than the one that can be removed, since for the last 5 years minimal changes to the removable one. But… I still check every year, because if my theory is right, there will come a time when the removable one needs replacing, and the permanent one is gone. I do it every year during fall or winter, drain the water tank afterwords, as well.
I'm removing my anode rod, and the instructions say to use a 1 - 1/16 inch socket. The socket has some play and does not seem to be the right size. This anode rod came with the Rheem water heater. I tried a 26mm, but that is too small, and a 27mm is a bit larger. Is there a specific size that will fit on the anode rod nut?
Is the cap just cosmetic? Replaced the rod on our Rheem Hybrid and figured no reason to put it back in, especially since it's not visible unless you take the entire top off.
I tried an air impact wrench, even with a short burst in the forward direction to help break up any rust. I tried penetrating oil, an air chisel on the nut to break off any rust, an ice cube on top of the nut to shrink it a touch. I did everything I could think of except heating the surrounding area of the nut. I’ve just about given up. Any advice or suggestions?
Oh wow! That's one stubborn nut. i've never come across a nut that I haven't been able to break yet. I'd get a lot more leverage/bigger impact. That being said, sometimes it's worth leaving it alone, taking the L, and walking away.
I will need to get a flex anode like what you installed. I know I can cut it to length if needed, but is there any harm if I install it and the excess is resting on the tank bottom?
I don't see any logical reason why you couldn't. mine is resting on the bottom. One installation reason is it may be a little harder to catch the threads when you thread it in, but you'll get it 👍🏼
Thanks for letting me know. i Just added the video link in the description. I'm not sure if this is clickable, but the link is: th-cam.com/video/v7xtmjNCBmY/w-d-xo.html
I believe they sell just one size at your hardware store, but yes, I think it would depend on the size. Although it seems like they just get fatter, not so much taller. I could be wrong though.
When I loosened the anode, the rod jumped out and hot water spouted out like Old Faithful. So that's what happens if you don't turn off the water supply.to the tank.
My water heater is just under 4 years old. I was told by repairmen that if I drain the water heater, it will begin to malfunction since i haven't drain it yet. Is this true?
Not sure, but most plumbing companies won't site up at your door for less than $100 minimum trip fee. Then they are going to mark up the Rod a hefty price. Maybe some others can chirp in here, but I doubt you get this changed for under $150-200. Probably more in a big city.
Do it yourself. The rod is something like $35 at big box retail stores. There are several, extremely easy things you should just learn how to do yourself to save a ton of money. This is one of those things. The fix here is easy and cheap. Every homeowner should have an impact driver, drill, hammer, and other basic tools. Calling out a plumber to do basic tasks is annoying to them, so they mark up the cost of the call way beyond retail to get people to decide to NOT call them for the simple stuff they should know how to do. But I wish plumbers would take a different approach: Take the opportunity to educate homeowners on how to do basic tasks when they are called.
I’ve had some issues with the editing part, but hope to get it out soon, unless I need to region the video. Sorry! I’ll update you in a comment when it’s uploaded. It’s easy though, I’m sure you’re already doing it correctly
@@HandymanHertz Not sure about that either, I just know they're expensive, I got mine out with a 3ft breaker bar. I think the key is to do it every 2 years
Some Bradford white models have the anode rod connected to the threaded hot water outlet. But you can buy a replacement one. It’s the dumbest design in my opinion. I hope to have a tutorial on that sometime down the road.
@@HandymanHertz 3/4” breaker bar with 12 initially and wouldnt budge and then I tried 6 which rounded the head with 3 successive pulls. My impact socket was to beefy to fit in the recessed hole That’s what she said
I changed mine after much research on TH-cam. Kept seeing talk of this electrical connection but the threaded cap on my new segmented rod was plastic, not metal like the original rod so I call bunk on that theory. @@HandymanHertz
Ok, so, why replace it? I took the one out of my LP gas water heater at 6 months old, 15 years ago, and put a brass plug in. My electric, one year old water heater is doing the same, and im going to do the same. Why the hell are they in there?
Thank you So Much for explaining about where the rod was. I was going insane trying to find, positive it would Not be under all that styrofoam. It's a weird ass design and I hate whoever decided on it 🥲😭😭
You're welcome! I agree, I don't know why they don't make it easier, I guess they didn't ask us haha Some of the manufacturers have their rod connected under the threaded hot water discharge pipe (I'm looking at you, Bradford white). That would have really made you upset.
@@HandymanHertz oh lord, yes 😭😭😭 I can't replace my rod just yet anyways because as you said, it's all siezed now. Won't budge At All. So I guess I gotta get a power tool first 🥲
@Ms12369 you may be able to get away with putting a long pipe on your ratchet or breaker bar to get more leverage. That's worked in the past. But yes, a power tool is best.
@@HandymanHertz ah, I already tried pliers on the bar but maybe a longer handle would be better. It's in a weird spot too and it's Kinda hard throwing your weight into it when it's cramped and you're on a ladder 😅 Prolly just gonna have to get a power tool for it anyways but thanks for the tips!
![The Wall Song ร้องข้ามกำแพง | EP.215 | พาเวล นเรศ - พูห์ กฤติน | 17 ต.ค. 67 [1/5]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IUzrjuf60P4/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for not putting out a 20 minute video and still doing a thorough job
You bet, that's my style! Glad you appreciate it!
Yes what’s with this wave of 20-30 minute videos on 5 minute subjects?
Trust him on the impact driver. A breaker or even a ratchet is gonna spin the whole tank and then you're hosed. Good video!
100% Correct 👍🏼
Yep...that's what's happening with me. Now...to find an impact wrench to borrow....
Hosed lol
Would it be safe to use an anti-seize spray/penetrating catalyst if I cant remove the rod with a breaker bar without rotating the whole tank and I dont have a impact wrench?
@@marcactivator1413 I'd only ensure you something food safe and not an automotive type chemical for the obvious reason of the intended device. It may also simply not be enough to really do anything of significance on an older crusty tank never seeing any maintenance. Suggest you borrow an impact wrench if you don't want to buy one.
Great now I have another job on my todo list 😂 lucky I have a awesome video to watch showing me how to do it
just another thing put on your plate! Sorry Steve! 😂
I told myself, I may have to hire someone to do this. Then in my mind I heard Major Payne say "apply yoself!"
Reporting for duty sir 🗣
Very helpful video, to the point, and without time-wasting fluff! Thanks!
Thanks! I'm not a fan of fluff! 😊
Nicely done & great tutorial! I wasn't even aware of the anode rod or how to change it! Thanks! 👍👍
Thanks for watching! Yeah, I don’t think many people know about them. I’d be curious to know what percentage of the population does.
Great video. As a new homeowner I wasn't aware of this. Good things i clicked on this video after learning about water heater maintenance in hard water areas. Thank you. Subbing to learn more
Thanks for subbing! I have a video on flushing your water heater, which you may consider watching and doing.
Thanks for the great video. The factory installed anodes are a pain to remove. Didn't have an impact wrench. Used an 18" breaker bar with a 2' iron pipe as an extension. Also, let a couple of ice cubes melt on the top of the anode. This did the trick. Also, be sure to check the length of anode needed for your hot water model. The 44" flex magnesium anode comes in four sections. I had to snip off the bottom one with bolt cutters to make it the proper length.
Thank you so much!
All super useful info, especially the different lengths of the rods.
If it was so complicated for you, this gal may have to lose this battle and leave it to a plumber, I was planning on just using parrot pliers and a screw driver to loosen up the top of the rod. Don’t have many other tools. The top looks so engrained and flush (if that is actually the rod) that I thought it wasn’t removable.
In fact, will look the model up, some now come without a rod (“modern” design -expensive disposable appliances!)
I ordered the breaker bar & socket from Amazon. Did take some muscle so you may need some help if you do it. Good luck.
Subbed, waiting for the water heater flush video
Thanks, we've had some issues with the footage and may have to redo it. But your comment definitely puts it higher on the video "to do" list 👍🏼
Thanks for your video. I was assigned to change one today but I’ve never heard of one of these. I’ve never done this job. I came on here watch this video and I think I’ll be all right. this what happens when you just try to make a living and you lie on the résumé, thanks for your great video.
You're welcome! Yup, just make sure water is off/partially drained, you've got an impact or huge breaker bar if it's the style like mind. Theres another style of anode rod if you can't find the hex but. Usually on Bradford whites in my experience 👍🏼
@@HandymanHertz thanks !
Great explanation my man
Thanks for watching!
Thank you. Very helpful and valuable information.👍🏻
Thanks for watching! Glad you enjoyed it 👍🏼
Thank you for keeping it simple.
This video is perfect, concisely gets to the point without being a half hour long. Im just wondering how I'm going to get the rod out. I'm fairly certain I dont have 40" of space above the heater.
Thanks! One thing you can do,unscrew it and cut the rod under the threads. Let it fall back in and to the bottom. Never done this but it won't hurt anything there and it will actually be beneficial and help your new rod, as I'm sure it still has some life it in.
Or
You can't pull it out, put vise scrips at the base. And cut it, and keep doing that until it's out. Take it out in sections.
Then Click on my link in description and buy the num-chuck looking one that is flexible 👍🏼 hope this helps
@@HandymanHertz Ok, I think that might work. I probably have between 25" to 30" of clearance, so I'd probably only have to cut it once. I saw the numchuck style in the link, I'm definitely using that kind.
Excellent explanation!
Thanks!
Thank you for explaining why we need to flush some water. I have been wondering why we must flush out some water
You bet! I flooded things a little so You didn't have to haha
In my area I've seen water heaters last little as 1-3 years. Acidic well water is the most common reason and easy to treat. Chlorides (from road salt) found in wells along highways and roads will also do this but is much less common. Also a powered anode rod will last much longer and eliminate the rotten egg odor if it's not coming from the well.
Interesting, thanks for sharing. Yes a powered anode rod is an expensive, but good option for some like you mention
Great video, very clear and informative. Thank you. What brand or type of anode rod would you recommend to use in a propane heated water heater?
Thanks, Z
I use the one on Amazon, and there's a link in my description below. if you click on the link in my description, I'll get a dollar or two just for you clicking on it. It has really good reviews and I've had no problems whatsoever with this. From the look and feel, it seems very high-quality.
GREAT VIDEO! Thank you so much! I learned something new and this is valuable information.
Perfect video.
Thanks a lot!
man, thanks for the education on the water heater. liked , and subscribed
Thanks for the sub and glad you liked it 👍🏼
Thank you. This is good to know. I will show this to my husband.
I have been seeing some super tiny black residue like you sprinkled it in the bottom of tub. If you wipe it, it just streaks. You have to actually use a cleaner on it. I was trying to figure out where it was coming from. ....the shower head, faucet....someone not rinsing out the tub after a shower. 😮😮😮 One day i had to run some hot water and i noticed these tiny tiny black specks in the water. They were so tiny that anyone would have missed them but when you drained the tub you would see them.
When you wipe them with a cloth or paper towel, they remind me of the dark ash particles when you burn pine. Waxy or like a grease pencil. The house is 24 yrs old and this is the 2nd water heater. There is what some people say as hard water, 2 months a year but no one has water softners, i dont have hardwater stains or buildup on any of the faucets.
Opinion? Could that be what is causing this ????? That rod?
That’s Interesting, I havnt personally experienced this out of a faucet/tub. My first thought would be to flush your hot water heater. All of the sediments over the years settled to the bottom, and could get stirred up and flow into your faucets. I’ll have a video on here to do that in a day or two.
It could be that an anode rod, but I don’t think so. I think if it was that noticeable, and that much, you would have to change out that anode rod very very often. Maybe someone else can jump in here on the comments and help you out. Possible that it’s something in your well or city water?
@HandymanHertz it is possible now that you say that. I live near the foothills of the Northern Colorado Rockies. We had those massive fires in 2020... I don't know if you have ever been here, but it even burned above timberline in an area where there aren't trees, just sparsely growing shrubs and grass clumps. Lots of rock. We had ash on our cars, sidewalks, grass, sometimes close to an inch thick in the morning. Used the leaf blower constantly. I even had chunks of burnt wood, and one morning, there was a beautiful aspen leaf on my car, but when I touched it, it disappeared. It was ash.
We live over 30 miles from the beginning of the canyons and the fire. The fires were everywhere but were massive for CO.
The rain and snow melt goes into the Big Thompson river, which is our water source. If I think back, the black isn't constant. I can clean the tub and not see the black, and this can go several weeks. Unfortunately.....I haven't paid attention to it and the weather together to see if it matches up to times when we have had moisture. I do know some areas are still dealing with soil erosion and roads washing out. I don't know how long it takes for that much ash to decompose.
We had a lot of flooding this spring, which would cause Ash still hidden, not decomposed to wash downstream.
I could also just be grasping at straws. It's good to know about that rod, though.
The way it wipes or sticks reminds me of pine ash....exactly. the river at one time was flowing with black water. We used bottled water, but they said it was fine to drink it. I don't really trust that.
@@HandymanHertz oh, thanks for responding so fast.
@gsdmom1194 hmm, that makes sense to me. They sell whole house filters that filters all of the water that comes in your house. I’m not sure how fine of particles it filters out, it may not work with your issue.
Wow! How did we miss this all these years!!! We gotta get on this now! Thanks! This video needs to go viral! Everyone has at least 1 or more hot water heaters!!! 👍
Thank you very easy video to follow
You are welcome!
I'm pretty sure I have the same water heater as you (it's at least the same brand and looks the same) but where your anode rod is I have a copper pipe coming out that goes to an outside wall and has what looks like a pressure release valve? My manual says the anode rod should be up there next to the water pipes so I'm unclear what is going on and what I should do.
Yes, some pressure relief valves are on the side, and some are on the top. Do not take that apart, there's a separate place to remove the anode rod. I believe the only exception is Bradford White, that uses a special and Rod that's a part of the, hot water nipple. If you have Bradford, you'll be better off googling this.
Looks like a perfectly decent rod. How easy are they to cut? I don't have anywhere close to enough clearance for it to be removed.
Thanks so much for sharing this information!
Yup, thanks for watching 👍🏼
Question. I have a 40-gallon rheem electric water heater, and there's 2 caps on top, and a small one and a litter bigger one. How do I know where the rod is ? Also, on the bigger one, there's some wire running around. And last, there's some corrosión on the bottom of the tank.
Thank you.
Great info, Sir.
If it took 5 years for that rod to look like that... then that rod really didn't need replacing for another 2 years.
Thanks for the video.
You're welcome. Everyone's water quality is different. Ymmv
If it's calcified like that, it's effectiveness is much lower. Better to just replace it.
Lady here, one that has no clue but determined to do this because of budget.
Also, I have no specific tools, was planning on using parrot pliers, screw driver (to pull cap up), and nothing else.
Doable? Or do I buy another tool that I will never use?
Tips to loosen up the rod for removal?
It may be my wrist issue, but I can hardly open a can of mayo, and I see you are using a lot of muscle.
Do I flush with heater on, or should it be off? Completely flush? I think I read somewhere that it wasn’t a good idea because the loose rust would mess something up.
But HOW do I know how much I drained?
HandymanHertz, I wish you were nearby... the more I think the more difficult it looks.
Nobody should buy a house without passing a training class on how to maintain every appliance in the building.
Yes you will need special tool for removing the anode rod. Maybe borrow some from friends or family? You should shut off the water heater any time you work in it. The more you drain, the better. Good luck
@@HandymanHertz Thanks for the quick answer!
So impact driver, and you added a custom-made part, a pipe, right?
I take it out partly every year, but intact and with no eaten away spots. My awesome plumber installed a water heater with 2 of them, and I am thinking that the permanent one is more sacrificial than the one that can be removed, since for the last 5 years minimal changes to the removable one. But… I still check every year, because if my theory is right, there will come a time when the removable one needs replacing, and the permanent one is gone. I do it every year during fall or winter, drain the water tank afterwords, as well.
I'm removing my anode rod, and the instructions say to use a 1 - 1/16 inch socket. The socket has some play and does not seem to be the right size. This anode rod came with the Rheem water heater. I tried a 26mm, but that is too small, and a 27mm is a bit larger. Is there a specific size that will fit on the anode rod nut?
Did you have to remove the air vent machine first? On top of my water heater tank. The air vent is covering part of the anode rod cap
Is the cap just cosmetic? Replaced the rod on our Rheem Hybrid and figured no reason to put it back in, especially since it's not visible unless you take the entire top off.
I tried an air impact wrench, even with a short burst in the forward direction to help break up any rust. I tried penetrating oil, an air chisel on the nut to
break off any rust, an ice cube on top of the nut to shrink it a touch. I did everything I could think of except heating the surrounding area of the nut. I’ve just about given up. Any advice or suggestions?
Oh wow! That's one stubborn nut. i've never come across a nut that I haven't been able to break yet. I'd get a lot more leverage/bigger impact. That being said, sometimes it's worth leaving it alone, taking the L, and walking away.
Taking the L?
Loss?
I have shut off valve on the tank, and the water main. Is turning off the water main enough or should I turn off both?
Water main is plenty.
@@HandymanHertz Thank you. Should I use both the Teflon tape, and the dope or is the tape enough?
I will need to get a flex anode like what you installed. I know I can cut it to length if needed, but is there any harm if I install it and the excess is resting on the tank bottom?
I don't see any logical reason why you couldn't. mine is resting on the bottom. One installation reason is it may be a little harder to catch the threads when you thread it in, but you'll get it 👍🏼
Yep, I'll get it. I guess what may happen is that the anode may sit on any sediment on the tank bottom.@@HandymanHertz
did you do a video on how to flush the heater?
Yes, I did. Is it not in the description?
@@HandymanHertz Thank you for the reply, I couldn't find that video in your description, only the items you used
Thanks for letting me know. i Just added the video link in the description. I'm not sure if this is clickable, but the link is: th-cam.com/video/v7xtmjNCBmY/w-d-xo.html
Great video! I just hit the subscribe button.
Awesome thank you! 👍🏼
your awesome i didnt know about this im gonna go change mine now because my tank was already used and its been in my house for 20 years
Probably a good idea!
what setting did you use for your impact driver?
Full blast, but I just tightened it to where I thought it was good. I wouldn't recommend going full blast. You can always tighten it more.
The length of the rod depends of how many gallons is the water heater, correct?
I believe they sell just one size at your hardware store, but yes, I think it would depend on the size. Although it seems like they just get fatter, not so much taller. I could be wrong though.
Is it necessary to turn the gas of to the tank to do this?
When I loosened the anode, the rod jumped out and hot water spouted out like Old Faithful. So that's what happens if you don't turn off the water supply.to the tank.
What is that tool you used to pull the rod up called?
I used a cordless Impact Wrench.
Should you turn off the gas?
No need to turn off the gas. Just turn off the control valve
My water heater is just under 4 years old. I was told by repairmen that if I drain the water heater, it will begin to malfunction since i haven't drain it yet. Is this true?
No, I don't buy that personally. And definitely not at 4 years. I understand the theory, but don't think that's reality 🤷♂️
i have heard that one should not put teflon tape or dope on the anode rod
It will likely leak without them, and I don't see any logic or science behind that. Maybe someone can explain that.
how and where to find the parts, the rod, and the socket?
They are universal. I have links in the description to Amazon.
@@HandymanHertz Thank you, I'm still debating on the type of material to buy for that rod. Would you please suggest?
@@HandymanHertz I like the collapsable design of the magnesium rod, but is the aluminum better?
How much torque does it need
Put mine in new 8 years ago, just changed it and doesnt even look as bad as the one in the video.
Yep, everyone's water is different, some people need to change it every two years. Some people every 10 years.
How much does it cost for a service like this?
Not sure, but most plumbing companies won't site up at your door for less than $100 minimum trip fee. Then they are going to mark up the Rod a hefty price. Maybe some others can chirp in here, but I doubt you get this changed for under $150-200. Probably more in a big city.
Do it yourself. The rod is something like $35 at big box retail stores. There are several, extremely easy things you should just learn how to do yourself to save a ton of money. This is one of those things. The fix here is easy and cheap. Every homeowner should have an impact driver, drill, hammer, and other basic tools. Calling out a plumber to do basic tasks is annoying to them, so they mark up the cost of the call way beyond retail to get people to decide to NOT call them for the simple stuff they should know how to do. But I wish plumbers would take a different approach: Take the opportunity to educate homeowners on how to do basic tasks when they are called.
Hi,
I cannot find the how to drain water heater video??
I’ve had some issues with the editing part, but hope to get it out soon, unless I need to region the video. Sorry! I’ll update you in a comment when it’s uploaded. It’s easy though, I’m sure you’re already doing it correctly
couldn't the impact potentially crack the glass lining?
Hmm good question. I guess I dont think of them as that fragile but I don't know for sure. Maybe I need to cut one in half?
@@HandymanHertz Not sure about that either, I just know they're expensive, I got mine out with a 3ft breaker bar. I think the key is to do it every 2 years
@-.__.__.-Rad yup, I agree, I think that's the best way to reduce them seizing. I've even wondered if putting anti-seize on it would help?
i was today years old when a random youtube short told me this existed.
oh the mysteries of life... 😊
Oh, geez. 5 years max. I wonder what I'll find when I pull mine. 15 years since the tank was installed.
It really depends on the water quality. Some last less than two years and some would probably last 10 or 20 years 🤷♂️
My tank is a 40 gal Bradford White. I don’t have a separate Anode rod. Where is it???
Some Bradford white models have the anode rod connected to the threaded hot water outlet. But you can buy a replacement one. It’s the dumbest design in my opinion. I hope to have a tutorial on that sometime down the road.
@@HandymanHertz Thanks for the reply
Mine was in there so tight I rounded the bolt. It’s never coming out
Oh wow! Just curious, did you use a wrench or impact? 12 or 6 point socket?
@@HandymanHertz 3/4” breaker bar with 12 initially and wouldnt budge and then I tried 6 which rounded the head with 3 successive pulls. My impact socket was to beefy to fit in the recessed hole
That’s what she said
How often should I change my anode rod? My water heater is 1 year old
Never mind, you just mentioned it in the video. Thanks!
👍🏼 yup, depends on your area and whether or not your in a well or city. pretty easy to pull it and do a quick check too.
You should definitely considered a powered anode rod. They last 20+ years
That's a good idea, but I haven't lived anywhere long enough to get a return on my investment 😆
Only issue is some have the anode rod part of the hot nipple. Makes it alot harder.
Yes, I believe Bradford whites are the only ones I've come across like that. Terrible design imo, I'd never buy that brand for that reason.
Be careful how many teflon wraps you add because the threads need to make a good electrical connection with the tank as in ground out to the tank.
Are you being serious?
I changed mine after much research on TH-cam. Kept seeing talk of this electrical connection but the threaded cap on my new segmented rod was plastic, not metal like the original rod so I call bunk on that theory. @@HandymanHertz
Ok, so, why replace it?
I took the one out of my LP gas water heater at 6 months old, 15 years ago, and put a brass plug in.
My electric, one year old water heater is doing the same, and im going to do the same.
Why the hell are they in there?
It's clear you didn't watch the video where I explain that
@@HandymanHertz true.
Watched it after I commented.
I hate when people do that.
Sorry.
I'm still just using a brass plug.
the ANODE ROD tells you the condition in side the tank if rod is bad time to change tank not rod
This is 100% incorrect.
I'd be worried about those galvanized nipples with brass fittings on them. Electrolysis is sure to happen there
Yeah, not ideal for sure, but no issue all these years later (water heater built in 2007 if I remember right?)
Thank you So Much for explaining about where the rod was. I was going insane trying to find, positive it would Not be under all that styrofoam. It's a weird ass design and I hate whoever decided on it 🥲😭😭
You're welcome! I agree, I don't know why they don't make it easier, I guess they didn't ask us haha
Some of the manufacturers have their rod connected under the threaded hot water discharge pipe (I'm looking at you, Bradford white). That would have really made you upset.
@@HandymanHertz oh lord, yes 😭😭😭
I can't replace my rod just yet anyways because as you said, it's all siezed now. Won't budge At All. So I guess I gotta get a power tool first 🥲
@Ms12369 you may be able to get away with putting a long pipe on your ratchet or breaker bar to get more leverage. That's worked in the past. But yes, a power tool is best.
@@HandymanHertz ah, I already tried pliers on the bar but maybe a longer handle would be better. It's in a weird spot too and it's Kinda hard throwing your weight into it when it's cramped and you're on a ladder 😅
Prolly just gonna have to get a power tool for it anyways but thanks for the tips!
@Ms12369 yeah, that sounds like an awkward one, the power tool should help ya... Good luck! 👍🏼