You are 100% correct. The websites are as useless as balls on a door knob! Sometimes if I can't get something to work, I'll send it back. The company websites doesn't tell you squat.
I just finished a Dometic class on their products 2 weeks ago Kenny 1/8 gap on the flame sensor and 1/8 from the burner is factory specs. Also I use a butane lighter (the ones that burn like a propane torch) and hold it on the nut for about 15 seconds the expansion helps break that nut loose. If you want to check the solenoids on the old gas valve it should read 15-20 ohms in parallel 40ohms individually. Hope this helps bud.
Sounds just like my house furnace Kenny I pulled out my flame sensor cleaned it with Emory cloth now it’s fine but it will show same symptoms it will light and go out 5 seconds later
Replaced the sail switch since it gave a 15 second purge then quit. Now mine gets a "whoosh", like gas is igniting but then shuts off, purges again and quits.
I hate it when some gorilla tightens a nut so tight that you have to break something to get it loose...seems to happen often when the kid at the tire shop uses that 1/2" impact at about 250 psi and then you can't get the lug nut off when your on the side of the road @#$! Anyway, good video...I always learn alot from you. Speaking of which, wonder if I could pick your brain. I'm trying to hook up some led lights for my pantry in my travel trailer and wanted to use a spare spot on the DC fuse panel. However, when I started testing, I have 12+ volts on the wire lug even without a fuse installed? Checked the fuse holder and have same voltage on both sides again w/o any fuse installed....I checked one of the ckts in use and after pulling the fuse I have 0 volts on the wire lug as you would expect. Ever seen this before? Any ideas as to why? I'm hesitant to use it as I don't see how that ckt could be fuse protected testing the way it does now. thx...btw, sorry if this is imposing on you
You can ask a question anytime Alan. That is weird. That makes no sense, why it shows voltage like that. LEDs pull like no amps, just put them on with another circuit.
You are 100% correct. The websites are as useless as balls on a door knob! Sometimes if I can't get something to work, I'll send it back. The company websites doesn't tell you squat.
Not a lot of customer service anymore.
No ur correct the websites don’t make any sense. They want you to take it to the shop.
True.
Another goodie, always a great day when you learn something new. Thanks
You are welcome
Man, that was almost a knuckle buster. That person should be a little warmer now thanks to you. Don
He should be.
Great job! Not the most fun job but you made it look easy. Thanks, Ed
Easey Peasey
I love watching your channel, you’re the man I’ve learned a lot!
Thank you.
I just finished a Dometic class on their products 2 weeks ago Kenny 1/8 gap on the flame sensor and 1/8 from the burner is factory specs. Also I use a butane lighter (the ones that burn like a propane torch) and hold it on the nut for about 15 seconds the expansion helps break that nut loose. If you want to check the solenoids on the old gas valve it should read 15-20 ohms in parallel 40ohms individually. Hope this helps bud.
Thanks Marcus. So this one was a little wide. I'll do better next time.
It works bud that’s all that matters lol
Sounds just like my house furnace Kenny I pulled out my flame sensor cleaned it with Emory cloth now it’s fine but it will show same symptoms it will light and go out 5 seconds later
Furnaces are real fun.
I thought I was going to have to come and sit on the other end to hold it down for you.
I thought I might have to get somebody to sit on it. No reason for it to be that tight.
Replaced the sail switch since it gave a 15 second purge then quit. Now mine gets a "whoosh", like gas is igniting but then shuts off, purges again and quits.
Hmmmm
👍
Just another day at the "Oriface"
ha ha...I like that one Steve. I might use that one some day.
I hate it when some gorilla tightens a nut so tight that you have to break something to get it loose...seems to happen often when the kid at the tire shop uses that 1/2" impact at about 250 psi and then you can't get the lug nut off when your on the side of the road @#$! Anyway, good video...I always learn alot from you. Speaking of which, wonder if I could pick your brain. I'm trying to hook up some led lights for my pantry in my travel trailer and wanted to use a spare spot on the DC fuse panel. However, when I started testing, I have 12+ volts on the wire lug even without a fuse installed? Checked the fuse holder and have same voltage on both sides again w/o any fuse installed....I checked one of the ckts in use and after pulling the fuse I have 0 volts on the wire lug as you would expect. Ever seen this before? Any ideas as to why? I'm hesitant to use it as I don't see how that ckt could be fuse protected testing the way it does now. thx...btw, sorry if this is imposing on you
You can ask a question anytime Alan. That is weird. That makes no sense, why it shows voltage like that. LEDs pull like no amps, just put them on with another circuit.
@@hillbillyrv it is weird..never seen anything like it and cannot explain it. Oh well...I like your suggestion....thx so much
If you do get someone at “customer service” they will be reading from a script and have a funny accent.
I hear ya Paul. Me being a WV Hillbilly, everybody outside of WV, has a funny accent.