What I've seen Ivan do on a few of these is just pull your signal wire and clutch wire from the board and then run it on it's own independent relay next to the box or mounted on the firewall. It's super cheap, easy to rig up and gets the customer going again; and is actually an upgrade, because then the relay is easily replaceable next time. Cheers.
@@thepeepsdotnet When I bought mine earlier this year, it came with one year of updates and then it is $699 to update it. You can skip the update for a year or two and when you pay the $699, you are updated to the latest files, you don't have to purchase all the previous years updates. Hopefully my explanation makes sense.
What I've seen Ivan do on a few of these is just pull your signal wire and clutch wire from the board and then run it on it's own independent relay next to the box or mounted on the firewall. It's super cheap, easy to rig up and gets the customer going again; and is actually an upgrade, because then the relay is easily replaceable next time. Cheers.
@@calholli ivan is a clever dude with some serious education. Eric is a clever guy with a thriving bidness who only resorts to a good hack when requested. I enjoy watching both.
On my own Chrysler, I did the same test you dtd and got the same answers from the dealer, so just by-passed the built-in relay and wired a universal one in it's place. Works like new. LOL
I recently picked up a 906Pro-TS (906 Pro with tpms tool built in). As my first bi-directional scan tool, there’s a bit of a learning curve as a driveway diy-er, but it has earned my respect and has been worth every penny.
My co-worker is what I call a Jeep ho, and he gives me grief because I'm a DeWalt ho, but I told him that even though they both appear in car videos quite often, the DeWalt's are normally fixing the Jeeps. He had no response to that.
Never really thought about it but I see DeWalt tools very rarely in automotive but all the time in home contracting. Big one I see in YT car vids is Milwaukee tho I saw the Rigid stuff enough to pick it as a cheaper option I've been happy with
@@Onewheelordeal Dewalt is the home gamer... Milwaukee is the professional. Doesn't matter if it is building a structure, or laying pipe in the oil fields. That is how I see the brands separated every day. I personally have no issues with either of them.
i dislike Dwalt. They dissed me on a warranty claim and I told the rep I'd never buy a yellow piece of junk again... 30 years later, this contractor has never owned a yellow tool. Milwaukee for me.
I tried getting into a little PCB repair, but newer devices have some kind of epoxy coating to seal out corrosion. You have to scrape it off and hope you don't damage underlying components. And of course devices are getting smaller, it's harder to find diagrams with part numbers, and even if you do, it's harder to find component parts to finish the task.
Very true. I tried to fix a door control module on an 01 Mercedes but that thing had epoxy coating all over it and worse of all, no schematics as it's proprietary garbage. Without schematics, impossible to fix.
Yes, the supply line problem is hitting us all. The inverter on my recently installed solar system for my house went bad, two months ago. they are saying maybe in another week or two. So I have a brand new solar system on my house that is gathering dust. BUT, at least this company is sending me partial checks to help with the monthly power bill. Love your troubleshooting techniques.
What I've seen Ivan do on a few of these is just pull your signal wire and clutch wire from the board and then run it on it's own independent relay next to the box or mounted on the firewall. It's super cheap, easy to rig up and gets the customer going again; and is actually an upgrade, because then the relay is easily replaceable next time. Cheers.
I would solder a new relay to the circuit board. It's really easy. The only thing I doubt is whether the fuse box will open without a fight. And yes, I hate relays hanging from wires. The next guy wouldn't know what this loose relay is.
@@peto22 You can easily label it. I give you a 50% chance that trying to open up the fuse box is either going to compromise the box by breaking the plastic shell or you may even break the board or something inside-- and then you end up NEEDING to buy a new box. On older fords, they always had the starter solenoid mounted to the fender, so I'm used to seeing some sort of separate relay or solenoid there--- so it doesn't bother me; I actually prefer it over an integrated setup, especially for something like my fuel pump- that way it's even easier to trouble shoot. It's easy to hard mount the relay, clean up your wires with a loom and tag it with a label. You wouldn't even know it wasn't factory.
Great straight forward diag!! I'm working in Detroit Area for auto supplier. We're getting killed with all the supply shortages! LETS SHUT IT ALL DOWN!!!
Just bought some of the headlight repair you suggest on your amazon page. Did my mothers headlights and they turned out amazing. Thanks for the videos and all you do.
@Cullen Miller Hahaha, I just made the same comment. It's time to 'Ivan it' by fitting an external relay🤣👍 If not that, I'd be in there with my soldering iron in seconds, and then off to my local electronics shop to source an equivalent relay, or any relay that will do the same job and fit in there somewhere👌
@@petenikolic5244 I think it's sad, nowadays so many things are built non-serviceable, or are throw away items that are not worth the time involved, or the risk of warranty claim headaches for most shops or technicians to attempt a repair. They are much better off, and less time involved or less risk to just replace it with a new one and move on...and more e-waste gets added to the mountain.
Always a smile watchin ur vids... I just wire in an external relay, similar to the fuel pump relays. Especially if the parts not avail. Thanks for all ur videos. Great job as always
Thank you Mr Eric O for your diagnosis wizardry ! As always you a smart and great teacher! I have been learning a lot over the years watching your videos. Much appreciated.
I repaired the tipm on my wife's '13 grand caravan with about $5 in relays when the fuel pump wouldn't turn on unless battery voltage was above 11.3. Those relays are thrice the price now, but still less than the $200 online repair shops are charging. They're easy to replace for those of us with daily soldering practice.
I own a MS 906 BT. It's awesome. No wire to drag around is a blessing. And I can cast to my laptop with TeamViewer. I think you should do a video of that for viewers.
I am a little late to the chat, but I would like to converse on this diag. 1) did replacement of the PDB correct the issue? 2) when you had the test light on ground , and poking it on the ground/control side of the relay. You, in a way, made the test light a jumper wire to ground causing the compressor to click. Seems there was a grounding issue on the relay rather than a PDB issue. I feel to properly test the ground, you would want the test light on power and probe the control to see if it was giving the ground. Now this is utilizing the comment (this relay is ground controlled) and from what the wiring diagram. Thank you! Great video! I love watching electrical diag, eases my mind when starting a diag project for someone on remembering the steps and utilizing tools I have available. Keep up the good work!
Pretty common issue we see at the dealership. What I like to do if the vehicle is out of warranty is instead of replacing the PDC, you can install an external relay. I just use the kit that’s available for the V62 recall for the GC and durangos. Same exact thing happens but for the fuel pumps.
You are true automotive technician. Mechanic inclines to mechanical works only while technicians is different, they trained to diagnose electrical or mechanical problems on a vehicles and they are no joke, they are theoretically skills and hands on too just like any ordinary mechanic but they know what their doing according to automotive regulations.
In my part of the world RAM trucks are very popular. Southland, no rust issues. Supply chain issues are causing problems even for common service parts. No oem brake pads and had to go to two dealers to get enough spark plugs. (I try to stay with oem parts) It was a problem getting new key fobs too. No amazon fobs. I’m willing to pay for “buy here, program here”. I’m almost ready to be proactive and order a TIPM/PDC and hope for the best.
As an advanced DIYer, I love my Autel 906bt MaxiSys. I've had it for about 3 years now, and it's paid for itself several times over. Love the bidirectional control, live data, module VIN writing, key programming, etc. Of course, the tool is only as good as the person using it which is why I love learning from your channel.
I have a Autel AP200. Can read all the datastreams and codes. But they nerfed it, so it can't do active tests. Which is really annoying. They could've just let me pay a small fee every time I'd need to do an active test or watch an ad or something.
I have the xtool D8, and it seems to be a direct copy of the autel. The layout and even the font looks virtually the same; as opposed to the Snap on or Thinktool, which are both quite a bit different.. For $700, the D8 is hard to beat. It works especially well with programing keys too.
Heya again just reviewed and I heard you clearly say the testing the ground side of the circuit I just couldn't see if the test light was lighting up cuz your hand was over it my bad thanks for all your hard work and shared knowledge. Respect Rich C.
Only thoughts on them bringing it from the dealer to a smaller shop like yours is they wanted the power distribution centre opened and repaired, given the part backorder.
"... on back order for 2 years ...". And THAT is why it's at your shop. Someone was hoping you'd pull a technical rabbit out of your hat I'm bettin'... ;) Can you imagine making the call, ordering the part, waiting a year only to have it show up and NOT fix the problem? No shop wants that liability! Good job as always!
Dotted line around perimeter of diagrams when looking at pic indicates relay part of board and in same picture dotted line around relay like you said is removable , Nice work on diag this concern .
That's a nice scan tool, I have the MS906TS Pro, great scan tool, has built in TPMS programmer in it. Waited many years to upgrade to a quality diagnostic scan tool. I also have the 4 channel oscilloscope kit as well, paid over $3,500.00 for the setup. As a side note, I have 3 Chrysler minivans from 2002 to 2005, and I haven't had an issue with the TIPMs, I guess pulling all the relays and fuses, spraying it down with electrical contact cleaner and blowing the crap out if it with compressed air; and then finally loading all the contacts with dielectric grease has made them more reliable. I also removed all the plugs underneath, and did the same thing; clean the contacts and cover them up with dielectric grease. Chrysler should have done that when they made them, as they aren't exactly water and moister proof, so the dielectric grease helps keep moister away from the contacts. Yes, it does make the fuse box kind of greasy and messy, but haven't had an issue with the TIPMs.
I'm starting to think the reason Eric says that we can do it, is to get us to actually try, screw it up, and bring him the car. 🤣 You sir are amazing. Don't sell yourself short.
I could show you how to change a relay in a printed circuit board (or any other component for that matter). De-solder, remove , replace and re-solder a new one in. That is assuming that you could find a new one as you probably wouldn't find it listed anywhere. Maybe Newark electronics or Dig-a-Key.
I’ve had an Autel 906 bt for a few years and just upgraded to the ultra, I really like the ultra so far. Trouble with the mopar pdc’s started with TIPM and just went downhill from there. Just had one with an open in the circuit board for the abs pump.
I'm a retired State Trooper, and back in the 70's, Chrysler built their 440 magnum police cars with a new "Lean Burn Computer". We had at least four patrol cars at my post alone that burned up because of faulty circuit boards. Was scary just driving them. All those engineers and Chrysler still couldn't get it right.
I’ve had the same problem with the 14 ram power distribution was on back order. Found a factory one online at MAKs TIPM rebuilders. They offered rebuilt and new ones. When the new one came in it had Mopar part numbers on it.
I ran into the same thing a few weeks ago. the clutch would not turn on, all inputs looked good and system had pressure. until I tried to locate the relay on the wiring diagrams did I find it was part of the circuit board. When I removed the pdc I found I had power from the relay and the clutch started working. banged on the pdc and clutch would work then not work.
I've had intermittent failure issues and ended up taking the TIPM (Totally integrated power module) apart and and, with needle nose pliers, squeezed the prongs that accept the fuse and relay blades. Plugs are color coded beneath. Plastic tabs are junk. Don't be surprised, if despite your best efforts, you break one/some. Snap some pictures to assist with reassembly as far as how the looms were routed in relation to one another, and quick reference for fuses and relays. The prongs oxidize. Not sure if they are insufficiently sized and if heat contributes to warping. After running a piece of sand cloth between and squeezing the receiving prongs together I've not had any loss of power to fuse or relay issues.
Love your videos but watch for the entertainment. Surprised that you did not resort to an external relay knowing that the fuse box was not available. Thanks for your years of educational materials.
I had the same issue on my 99 Escort ZX2. A/C clutch was controlled by a module called the CCRM, which also had a non-serviceable relay. Some snipping of wires, a Bosch 30a relay, and an in-line fuse and I was good to go! BTW, Ford's CCRM's were junk, always on back order or not available. My fix lasted over 10 years.
That sucks for the car owner but still an informative and interesting video. My wife has an 04 Grand Cherokee and the ac has never been nothing to brag about.Good dependable car though. Thanks Eric!
The scan tools also do relay testing turning them on and of and you just listen to make sure they click back and forth but im sure you know that, it just sucks that there's so many mechanics out there who don't mess with electric issues and trouble shooting them anymore.
2 years before COVID my water pump went out on my WK2 at 95,000 miles, my 2014 had the 100K powertrain. Those damn things were 2 months backordered. I could have bought a MOPAR pump on ebay, no.... had to wait until they received them. So I had them put me in a rental... which wasn't too bad.
If you smack the top of the TIPM with a flat hand you can turn it on. I did that once a year and now it’s every 10 minutes. Going on a trip now waiting for a TIPM. Might wire a 12 line to the compressor while I’m waiting
From what it sounds like it would be a relatively easy to replace the relay since you can't get the part new. If you did not want to get into pcb repair, you could send the customer over the Ivan to replace the relay.
take the input and output wires and add external relay and fuse probably if you soldered in new pcb fuse it would fail quicker and take 6 times longer to do keep up the good work Dr O
Amazing content Eric, I wonder how much that PDC cost vs just replacing it with an aftermarket relay? Obviously not a fan of hidden relays. I did electronics for 40 yrs and you don't know how many things I have worked around. 120Kv (yup kilo volts DC) to 3V computer stuff Megawatts down to microwatts of power Radio Frequency stuff. But I find your diagnostic skills outstanding. Of course proper tools are the key. But knowing how to use an $80K test equipment is where the knowledge is. Not everyone can use it and diagnose an issue. Thank you and blessing to your family. I can not justify $1500 for a scan tool though. How about a shade tree mechanic version $200 bucks or so. Best bang for the buck for a twice-a-year usage.
What did your customer do then? Take his vehicle back and drive it until the part comes in? Did you order the part? Great video as alway. I really enjoy all your stuff.
Watching all your videos, thanks for the great content. Just one question: Why didn't you check the fuse itself? You provided power to one side to the fuse, which enabled the compressor - but could it not be the fuse itself was blown (as it may not have worked on the other side of the fuse)?
What's scary is that a 5 year old car needs an expensive part because of a bad relay 😨😨😨 And each summer the heat seems to stay for longer, an AC is a must!
I use the ms 906ts scan tool myself and there 4 way oslyscope mp408 and for an at home shop that dose general repairs and classic restoration prodjects these tools are all I need along with my power probe etc3000 short chaser another must have in my book!!
Very interesting! My friend has a similar model Grand Cherokee. She had a really intense parasitic draw key off....long story short (pun not intended 😂), her power distribution module went bad keeping the A/C clutch relay stuck on!
I work at a jeep dealership, this year back in January I had a Grand Cherokee, exact same problem, dead battery caused with the ac clutch staying on and had to replace the power distribution center since the relay wasn't replacable.
@@amitrkolte the relay is replaceable. it just takes the fuse box being disassembled which is not hard at all. and the relay de soldered from the board and a new one put in.. if you can solder wires together then you can replace a relay with a bit of research on how to de solder components from a circuit board. and using a solder sucker. lol which is just a plunger you push in and when the metal melts you hit a button and bam all the metal "solder" gets sucked up. then just simply put the piece back in and melt a bit of solder around each pin and done. saves people thousands of dollars and take an hour to do. this way people dont have to wait months for a part to come in because there back order. and those pdcs or fuse boxes dont end up in landfills for a 50cent part maby a few bucks.....theres also alot of rebuilders on the interwebs that will do the same thing for cheap
@@bam6972 Given the TIPM/PDC issues have been around over 10 years, most people know you can either go into the TIPM and try replacing the relay or bypass it using an external relay. If you're a DIYer and the car is out of warranty, go for it, that makes the most sense. Even Eric said in the video that's what he'd so if it was his car. The issue is the time a professional shop must take would make it financially not feasible since it would likely be near the same cost to go through all the labour of tearing apart the TIPM rather than just replacing it. Also, they can't provide any kind of warranty to the customer. They could use a rebuilding service, but then the customer's car is down for a week while waiting for the repair to be done because their AC doesn't work. Given the supply chain issues, that's likely what they'd do. Or the external relay trick, if the customer is ok with that repair.
You could buy a solid state relay and wire it directly to the corresponding pins on the connector. You would be the hero of the day. Don't forget to label the relay.
Three things I was told when it comes to AC Diag 1. visually see if the AC clutch kicks on . 2. check to see if there’s enough refrigerant in the AC system. 3. check to see if the AC pressure switch is functioning.
Seems like you could install an inexpensive external relay in parallel with the failed relay on the pcb. Just splice in the four wires from the relay to the ones you've already identified, and the customer is back in business.
Hah! Love how you called out ALL the dumb reasons the part, like so many things today, are not available and on back order. Thanks for another SMA video! You rock
Those integrated relays are a bit annoying as you can’t service them. I have a 14 ram 3.6 with the same situation, but with my fuel pump. The relay stopped working and I wasn’t able to turn on the truck. I actually decided to cut the wires to the relay and made a external relay which fixed my issue. And it’s now serviceable.
Guess8ng with a bit of searching there are rebuilders for that issue just like on the TIPMs. Hope can get fixed. Terrible idea to not make relays replacable.
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What I've seen Ivan do on a few of these is just pull your signal wire and clutch wire from the board and then run it on it's own independent relay next to the box or mounted on the firewall. It's super cheap, easy to rig up and gets the customer going again; and is actually an upgrade, because then the relay is easily replaceable next time. Cheers.
Does the Autel also need a subscription for updates, or is it just buy it, and it's good for the life of the unit?
Mr. O. - Have you used it on any FCA products 2018 or newer? If so, does it allow you to get beyond the secure gateway to, say, ABS, BCM, etc.?
EVERY LITTLE BIT HELPS
@@thepeepsdotnet When I bought mine earlier this year, it came with one year of updates and then it is $699 to update it. You can skip the update for a year or two and when you pay the $699, you are updated to the latest files, you don't have to purchase all the previous years updates. Hopefully my explanation makes sense.
I'm an Industrial electrician and your troubleshooting skills and ability to teach are a great gift. I always learn from your videos
Same here!! I work on semiconductor manufacturing equipment and love watching him diagnose.
What I've seen Ivan do on a few of these is just pull your signal wire and clutch wire from the board and then run it on it's own independent relay next to the box or mounted on the firewall. It's super cheap, easy to rig up and gets the customer going again; and is actually an upgrade, because then the relay is easily replaceable next time. Cheers.
I’m a former industrial electrician and I agree with your post completely!!
@@calholli ivan is a clever dude with some serious education. Eric is a clever guy with a thriving bidness who only resorts to a good hack when requested. I enjoy watching both.
My question is if when he adds a ground and the relay turns on why not assume the pcm isn't adding a ground?
Eric you are probably 1 of the best and smartest Mechanic's I have ever seen. Good job
Look up Ivan at "pine hollow auto diagnostics" --
Scanner danner does very well also at trouble shooting ..same to you eric o.
On my own Chrysler, I did the same test you dtd and got the same answers from the dealer, so just by-passed the built-in relay and wired a universal one in it's place. Works like new. LOL
your ability to breakdown and diagnose a problem never ceases to amaze. thank you!
Ditto that.
We just add an external relay for any failed relay. Not hard, not expensive, & no more non replaceable relay!
I recently picked up a 906Pro-TS (906 Pro with tpms tool built in). As my first bi-directional scan tool, there’s a bit of a learning curve as a driveway diy-er, but it has earned my respect and has been worth every penny.
My co-worker is what I call a Jeep ho, and he gives me grief because I'm a DeWalt ho, but I told him that even though they both appear in car videos quite often, the DeWalt's are normally fixing the Jeeps. He had no response to that.
I feel that, I'm a bit of a Festool whore myself.
Never really thought about it but I see DeWalt tools very rarely in automotive but all the time in home contracting.
Big one I see in YT car vids is Milwaukee tho I saw the Rigid stuff enough to pick it as a cheaper option I've been happy with
@@Onewheelordeal dewalt has been stepping up there game with automotive impacts so your probably see more of them.
@@Onewheelordeal Dewalt is the home gamer... Milwaukee is the professional. Doesn't matter if it is building a structure, or laying pipe in the oil fields. That is how I see the brands separated every day. I personally have no issues with either of them.
i dislike Dwalt. They dissed me on a warranty claim and I told the rep I'd never buy a yellow piece of junk again... 30 years later, this contractor has never owned a yellow tool. Milwaukee for me.
Dealer probably was looking for a training video for their techs. Now they have one!!!
The greatest lesson I have learned from you is to stop assuming. To identify the issue and follow the facts wherever that leads. Thank you.
I tried getting into a little PCB repair, but newer devices have some kind of epoxy coating to seal out corrosion. You have to scrape it off and hope you don't damage underlying components. And of course devices are getting smaller, it's harder to find diagrams with part numbers, and even if you do, it's harder to find component parts to finish the task.
Yes, it's all fun and games until you run into surface-mount components and multi-layer circuit boards!
Very true. I tried to fix a door control module on an 01 Mercedes but that thing had epoxy coating all over it and worse of all, no schematics as it's proprietary garbage. Without schematics, impossible to fix.
Yes, the supply line problem is hitting us all. The inverter on my recently installed solar system for my house went bad, two months ago. they are saying maybe in another week or two. So I have a brand new solar system on my house that is gathering dust. BUT, at least this company is sending me partial checks to help with the monthly power bill. Love your troubleshooting techniques.
What I've seen Ivan do on a few of these is just pull your signal wire and clutch wire from the board and then run it on it's own independent relay next to the box or mounted on the firewall. It's super cheap, easy to rig up and gets the customer going again; and is actually an upgrade, because then the relay is easily replaceable next time. Cheers.
I would solder a new relay to the circuit board. It's really easy. The only thing I doubt is whether the fuse box will open without a fight. And yes, I hate relays hanging from wires. The next guy wouldn't know what this loose relay is.
@@peto22 You can easily label it. I give you a 50% chance that trying to open up the fuse box is either going to compromise the box by breaking the plastic shell or you may even break the board or something inside-- and then you end up NEEDING to buy a new box. On older fords, they always had the starter solenoid mounted to the fender, so I'm used to seeing some sort of separate relay or solenoid there--- so it doesn't bother me; I actually prefer it over an integrated setup, especially for something like my fuel pump- that way it's even easier to trouble shoot. It's easy to hard mount the relay, clean up your wires with a loom and tag it with a label. You wouldn't even know it wasn't factory.
Eric o has videos of doing this as well, however on newer vehicles that aren’t that old I’m sure he prefers to repair it in the oem format
@@destinfranks801 So you got no A/C. That really sucks with winter coming on and your defrost doesn't work. Throw in a relay.
Don’t make the guy wait two years! Easily bypassed!
With the early WK2, offical repair bulletin was to install just a regular relay, cut the wires from the PDB.
Great straight forward diag!! I'm working in Detroit Area for auto supplier. We're getting killed with all the supply shortages! LETS SHUT IT ALL DOWN!!!
bypass that POS module and add in your own relay - seems simple enough based on the diag.
Lots of people do just that.
@@ShainAndrews How, is there a video showing how to do it. Can a DIY person do it?
Just bought some of the headlight repair you suggest on your amazon page. Did my mothers headlights and they turned out amazing. Thanks for the videos and all you do.
make sure to spray some clear coat over them after so they don't re yellow in a year.
I guess it’s time to snip wires and add a relay outside the power distribution center. 😂
Or change the $1 relay inside.
United Radio?
@Cullen Miller Hahaha, I just made the same comment. It's time to 'Ivan it' by fitting an external relay🤣👍 If not that, I'd be in there with my soldering iron in seconds, and then off to my local electronics shop to source an equivalent relay, or any relay that will do the same job and fit in there somewhere👌
@@eamonroad6388 Obvious thing but people do not like taking things to bits these days
@@petenikolic5244 I think it's sad, nowadays so many things are built non-serviceable, or are throw away items that are not worth the time involved, or the risk of warranty claim headaches for most shops or technicians to attempt a repair.
They are much better off, and less time involved or less risk to just replace it with a new one and move on...and more e-waste gets added to the mountain.
@@simonilett998 The ole classic tipm bypass.
Watching your videos has been tremendously helpful over the past 6-8 months of watching as I am new to the trade and looking to minimize my mistakes
It was 88 degrees with no rust or crust here at 10:30 this morning. Love watching your diagnosis instead of a parts canon approach.
Always a smile watchin ur vids... I just wire in an external relay, similar to the fuel pump relays. Especially if the parts not avail. Thanks for all ur videos. Great job as always
I wish Eric o. Offered a service where I would pay him for some advice. I love his thought process and respect his work ethic.
Definitely enjoy how you diagnose them electrical lines, GREAT JOB
Thank you Mr Eric O for your diagnosis wizardry ! As always you a smart and great teacher! I have been learning a lot over the years watching your videos. Much appreciated.
I like watching the electrical diagnosis. Sometimes I can even follow along...
I repaired the tipm on my wife's '13 grand caravan with about $5 in relays when the fuel pump wouldn't turn on unless battery voltage was above 11.3. Those relays are thrice the price now, but still less than the $200 online repair shops are charging. They're easy to replace for those of us with daily soldering practice.
Reminds me of the F150s with the fuel pump relay built into the fuse box. I bypassed a lot of those back in the day.
I own a MS 906 BT. It's awesome. No wire to drag around is a blessing. And I can cast to my laptop with TeamViewer. I think you should do a video of that for viewers.
I am a little late to the chat, but I would like to converse on this diag.
1) did replacement of the PDB correct the issue?
2) when you had the test light on ground , and poking it on the ground/control side of the relay. You, in a way, made the test light a jumper wire to ground causing the compressor to click. Seems there was a grounding issue on the relay rather than a PDB issue. I feel to properly test the ground, you would want the test light on power and probe the control to see if it was giving the ground. Now this is utilizing the comment (this relay is ground controlled) and from what the wiring diagram.
Thank you! Great video! I love watching electrical diag, eases my mind when starting a diag project for someone on remembering the steps and utilizing tools I have available. Keep up the good work!
Great diagnosis thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge. Greatly appreciated 👍
I vote for you to show us your soldering skills. I'll bet a pcb relay would cost a few bucks. Ivan would do it !!
Pretty common issue we see at the dealership. What I like to do if the vehicle is out of warranty is instead of replacing the PDC, you can install an external relay. I just use the kit that’s available for the V62 recall for the GC and durangos. Same exact thing happens but for the fuel pumps.
how do you fix this tell us
Your skills are off the charts! I can say I was lost after "Test Light". 😲
Eric O'...I would just add an external Relay. Tap into the Control wire and the the Fuse. Fog Light type relay should work fine.
Service data and wiring diagrams are often available for free at your local public library!! Great video Eric, thank you, sir!
I have been using the autel ms906 pro for about 5 months now, I bought the oscilloscope with it and absolutely love it.
In the trailer shop we always check the trailing arm bushings and brake chamber clevis pins first
The light inside the dongle is cool.
You are true automotive technician. Mechanic inclines to mechanical works only while technicians is different, they trained to diagnose electrical or mechanical problems on a vehicles and they are no joke, they are theoretically skills and hands on too just like any ordinary mechanic but they know what their doing according to automotive regulations.
In my part of the world RAM trucks are very popular. Southland, no rust issues. Supply chain issues are causing problems even for common service parts. No oem brake pads and had to go to two dealers to get enough spark plugs. (I try to stay with oem parts) It was a problem getting new key fobs too. No amazon fobs. I’m willing to pay for “buy here, program here”. I’m almost ready to be proactive and order a TIPM/PDC and hope for the best.
I believe you passed the audition. Great job.
As an advanced DIYer, I love my Autel 906bt MaxiSys. I've had it for about 3 years now, and it's paid for itself several times over. Love the bidirectional control, live data, module VIN writing, key programming, etc. Of course, the tool is only as good as the person using it which is why I love learning from your channel.
I have a Autel AP200. Can read all the datastreams and codes. But they nerfed it, so it can't do active tests. Which is really annoying. They could've just let me pay a small fee every time I'd need to do an active test or watch an ad or something.
I have the xtool D8, and it seems to be a direct copy of the autel. The layout and even the font looks virtually the same; as opposed to the Snap on or Thinktool, which are both quite a bit different.. For $700, the D8 is hard to beat. It works especially well with programing keys too.
Heya again just reviewed and I heard you clearly say the testing the ground side of the circuit I just couldn't see if the test light was lighting up cuz your hand was over it my bad thanks for all your hard work and shared knowledge. Respect Rich C.
If it was so simply, why didn’t the dealership find it ? Nice job, you make it easier to follow!
Only thoughts on them bringing it from the dealer to a smaller shop like yours is they wanted the power distribution centre opened and repaired, given the part backorder.
"... on back order for 2 years ...". And THAT is why it's at your shop. Someone was hoping you'd pull a technical rabbit out of your hat I'm bettin'... ;) Can you imagine making the call, ordering the part, waiting a year only to have it show up and NOT fix the problem? No shop wants that liability!
Good job as always!
I have that very same scanner. I did a lot of research for the budget I had and the 906 is what I purchased.
Dotted line around perimeter of diagrams when looking at pic indicates relay part of board and in same picture dotted line around relay like you said is removable , Nice work on diag this concern .
That's a nice scan tool, I have the MS906TS Pro, great scan tool, has built in TPMS programmer in it. Waited many years to upgrade to a quality diagnostic scan tool. I also have the 4 channel oscilloscope kit as well, paid over $3,500.00 for the setup. As a side note, I have 3 Chrysler minivans from 2002 to 2005, and I haven't had an issue with the TIPMs, I guess pulling all the relays and fuses, spraying it down with electrical contact cleaner and blowing the crap out if it with compressed air; and then finally loading all the contacts with dielectric grease has made them more reliable. I also removed all the plugs underneath, and did the same thing; clean the contacts and cover them up with dielectric grease. Chrysler should have done that when they made them, as they aren't exactly water and moister proof, so the dielectric grease helps keep moister away from the contacts. Yes, it does make the fuse box kind of greasy and messy, but haven't had an issue with the TIPMs.
Eric I love watching your videos I learn a lot.
I'm starting to think the reason Eric says that we can do it, is to get us to actually try, screw it up, and bring him the car. 🤣 You sir are amazing. Don't sell yourself short.
I could show you how to change a relay in a printed circuit board (or any other component for that matter). De-solder, remove , replace and re-solder a new one in. That is assuming that you could find a new one as you probably wouldn't find it listed anywhere. Maybe Newark electronics or Dig-a-Key.
It appears that it comes easy to you but your trouble shooting skills are the Best.... Thanks for the videos.
I’ve had an Autel 906 bt for a few years and just upgraded to the ultra, I really like the ultra so far. Trouble with the mopar pdc’s started with TIPM and just went downhill from there. Just had one with an open in the circuit board for the abs pump.
I'm a retired State Trooper, and back in the 70's, Chrysler built their 440 magnum police cars with a new "Lean Burn Computer". We had at least four patrol cars at my post alone that burned up because of faulty circuit boards. Was scary just driving them. All those engineers and Chrysler still couldn't get it right.
No questions or concerns just keep killing it
I've got the mx 808 tethered it's been good to me so far except keeping it charged up. Love the diags keep em up 👍.
"The electric car pandemic..."😂😄 Awesome as always, Eric! Thanks.
That had me spittin' coffee😜☕
@@xj31 a silly thing to say
This! It this bad on something just "modern."
Guaranteed it gets 1000X worst with these EVs they're trying to shove down out throats.
Thanks Eric for the Autel vin number trick!
congrats on all the subs. you earned it sir.
I’ve had the same problem with the 14 ram power distribution was on back order. Found a factory one online at MAKs TIPM rebuilders. They offered rebuilt and new ones. When the new one came in it had Mopar part numbers on it.
Had a 2014 Patriot and the left front high beam went out. It was the TIPM. It was the most expensive headlight repair in my 62 years.
Time to have a guest appearances of PHAD! He'll solder in a new one for you!
great video Eric...and a two-year backorder ...thats nuts !! ...thank you
I ran into the same thing a few weeks ago. the clutch would not turn on, all inputs looked good and system had pressure. until I tried to locate the relay on the wiring diagrams did I find it was part of the circuit board. When I removed the pdc I found I had power from the relay and the clutch started working. banged on the pdc and clutch would work then not work.
If we don't bring back our on factory's soon , there won't be any parts at all. Great job Sir.
I've had intermittent failure issues and ended up taking the TIPM (Totally integrated power module) apart and and, with needle nose pliers, squeezed the prongs that accept the fuse and relay blades.
Plugs are color coded beneath. Plastic tabs are junk. Don't be surprised, if despite your best efforts, you break one/some.
Snap some pictures to assist with reassembly as far as how the looms were routed in relation to one another, and quick reference for fuses and relays.
The prongs oxidize. Not sure if they are insufficiently sized and if heat contributes to warping.
After running a piece of sand cloth between and squeezing the receiving prongs together I've not had any loss of power to fuse or relay issues.
Love your videos but watch for the entertainment. Surprised that you did not resort to an external relay knowing that the fuse box was not available.
Thanks for your years of educational materials.
Put the fuel pump relay kit in it that they used when that relay went bad on the circuit board.
Did 2 of those last week ,relay kit from Auto Zone.
I had the same issue on my 99 Escort ZX2. A/C clutch was controlled by a module called the CCRM, which also had a non-serviceable relay. Some snipping of wires, a Bosch 30a relay, and an in-line fuse and I was good to go! BTW, Ford's CCRM's were junk, always on back order or not available. My fix lasted over 10 years.
same problem with my 99 ford escort wagon,it sits under the battery box and costs 10 bucks at the junk yard,cost me 100 bucks to find out the problem
That sucks for the car owner but still an informative and interesting video. My wife has an 04 Grand Cherokee and the ac has never been nothing to brag about.Good dependable car though. Thanks Eric!
I was just looking for something to watch, great timing
The scan tools also do relay testing turning them on and of and you just listen to make sure they click back and forth but im sure you know that, it just sucks that there's so many mechanics out there who don't mess with electric issues and trouble shooting them anymore.
2 years before COVID my water pump went out on my WK2 at 95,000 miles, my 2014 had the 100K powertrain. Those damn things were 2 months backordered. I could have bought a MOPAR pump on ebay, no.... had to wait until they received them. So I had them put me in a rental... which wasn't too bad.
I really like your program. Best wishes from Bengt Sweden
nye chrysler jeep shows 1 in stock. figured i'd let you know
thanks for the great videos
I love Eric O's honesty 💪🏾👍🏾😎
If you smack the top of the TIPM with a flat hand you can turn it on. I did that once a year and now it’s every 10 minutes. Going on a trip now waiting for a TIPM. Might wire a 12 line to the compressor while I’m waiting
Happy birthday, Eric!
From what it sounds like it would be a relatively easy to replace the relay since you can't get the part new. If you did not want to get into pcb repair, you could send the customer over the Ivan to replace the relay.
take the input and output wires and add external relay and fuse probably if you soldered in new pcb fuse it would fail quicker and take 6 times longer to do keep up the good work Dr O
Amazing content Eric, I wonder how much that PDC cost vs just replacing it with an aftermarket relay? Obviously not a fan of hidden relays. I did electronics for 40 yrs and you don't know how many things I have worked around. 120Kv (yup kilo volts DC) to 3V computer stuff Megawatts down to microwatts of power Radio Frequency stuff. But I find your diagnostic skills outstanding. Of course proper tools are the key. But knowing how to use an $80K test equipment is where the knowledge is. Not everyone can use it and diagnose an issue. Thank you and blessing to your family. I can not justify $1500 for a scan tool though. How about a shade tree mechanic version $200 bucks or so. Best bang for the buck for a twice-a-year usage.
What did your customer do then? Take his vehicle back and drive it until the part comes in? Did you order the part? Great video as alway. I really enjoy all your stuff.
Watching all your videos, thanks for the great content.
Just one question: Why didn't you check the fuse itself? You provided power to one side to the fuse, which enabled the compressor - but could it not be the fuse itself was blown (as it may not have worked on the other side of the fuse)?
What's scary is that a 5 year old car needs an expensive part because of a bad relay 😨😨😨 And each summer the heat seems to stay for longer, an AC is a must!
I use the ms 906ts scan tool myself and there 4 way oslyscope mp408 and for an at home shop that dose general repairs and classic restoration prodjects these tools are all I need along with my power probe etc3000 short chaser another must have in my book!!
Very interesting! My friend has a similar model Grand Cherokee. She had a really intense parasitic draw key off....long story short (pun not intended 😂),
her power distribution module went bad keeping the A/C clutch relay stuck on!
I work at a jeep dealership, this year back in January I had a Grand Cherokee, exact same problem, dead battery caused with the ac clutch staying on and had to replace the power distribution center since the relay wasn't replacable.
@@amitrkolte the relay is replaceable. it just takes the fuse box being disassembled which is not hard at all. and the relay de soldered from the board and a new one put in.. if you can solder wires together then you can replace a relay with a bit of research on how to de solder components from a circuit board. and using a solder sucker. lol which is just a plunger you push in and when the metal melts you hit a button and bam all the metal "solder" gets sucked up. then just simply put the piece back in and melt a bit of solder around each pin and done. saves people thousands of dollars and take an hour to do. this way people dont have to wait months for a part to come in because there back order. and those pdcs or fuse boxes dont end up in landfills for a 50cent part maby a few bucks.....theres also alot of rebuilders on the interwebs that will do the same thing for cheap
@@bam6972 Dam, I honestly haven't thought about that. My experience still has a long ways to go.
@@bam6972 Given the TIPM/PDC issues have been around over 10 years, most people know you can either go into the TIPM and try replacing the relay or bypass it using an external relay. If you're a DIYer and the car is out of warranty, go for it, that makes the most sense. Even Eric said in the video that's what he'd so if it was his car. The issue is the time a professional shop must take would make it financially not feasible since it would likely be near the same cost to go through all the labour of tearing apart the TIPM rather than just replacing it. Also, they can't provide any kind of warranty to the customer. They could use a rebuilding service, but then the customer's car is down for a week while waiting for the repair to be done because their AC doesn't work. Given the supply chain issues, that's likely what they'd do. Or the external relay trick, if the customer is ok with that repair.
Eric, Excellent troubleshooting!
You could buy a solid state relay and wire it directly to the corresponding pins on the connector. You would be the hero of the day. Don't forget to label the relay.
Always very interesting and entertaining Eric wonderful job
Three things I was told when it comes to AC Diag
1. visually see if the AC clutch kicks on .
2. check to see if there’s enough refrigerant in the AC system.
3. check to see if the AC pressure switch is functioning.
The light in the plug in is genius
Seems like you could install an inexpensive external relay in parallel with the failed relay on the pcb. Just splice in the four wires from the relay to the ones you've already identified, and the customer is back in business.
Did replacing Power Distribution Center actually solve the problem on this car? I think I face similar issue. Great video, thank you for your work.
Unobtainium..parts are getting bad. nice video keep them coming.
That's where your local salvage yards become shopping places for parts like this I guess.
Nailed it! Electric car pandemic... Thanks for all the great videos and laughs
Hah! Love how you called out ALL the dumb reasons the part, like so many things today, are not available and on back order. Thanks for another SMA video! You rock
Those integrated relays are a bit annoying as you can’t service them. I have a 14 ram 3.6 with the same situation, but with my fuel pump. The relay stopped working and I wasn’t able to turn on the truck. I actually decided to cut the wires to the relay and made a external relay which fixed my issue. And it’s now serviceable.
Guess8ng with a bit of searching there are rebuilders for that issue just like on the TIPMs. Hope can get fixed. Terrible idea to not make relays replacable.
Thanks for making the time with another great explanation and instruction on how to.