Plumbing (shivers) - Purchased a brand new RV. Had leaks from the inlet from day one. Tried everything from plumber's putty, plumber's tape, new hose...everything. After dealing with drips everywhere I went, finally opened up the panel and determined a micro-crack in the main inlet valve. Ended up replacing the entire assembly with Stainless and brass fittings. Finally no leaks...Next morning, wife informs me theres a leak behind the toilet. Apparently that valve assembly is more common for leaks. Now that it's not leaking...still battling a roof leak from day one. Did the Eternabond tape on the roof seams...still leaking. Beginning to think an RV is the new boat.
You have the best instructional videos on You Tube. They are to the point and detailed. I'm a new bee RV camper (2nd year) and have found your videos extremely helpful. Thanks!
My trailer's toilet started leaking at the elbow at the toilet. I found out that it was the cheapest type available so went to the RV store and bought a better hose/fitting. I went as far as installing 1/4 turn shut off valves behind the toilet supply PEX line and to the water heater nearby. I also carry PEX tools, fittings, clamps and hose in the trailer. I'm not a fan of sliding fittings.
I just fixed a leak on my rv and used the pex with the clips and fancy expensive tools. Should have watched earlier and saved a little. Either way great content. Thanks
Great video Darren it’s funny I keep some pex and some fittings in my trailer also some shark bite cause you never know when little issues will happen lol
What about the 1/2" vinyl tubing manufacturers are using instead of the more rigid Pex pipes. Are they more prone to leaking than the normal Pex tubing? They are all through my 2021 Grand Design RV going to faucets. The same crimp rings are used on the vinyl tubing as is used on the Pex tubes.
Bingo - I have had two of thee leak so far in my Grand Design. I'm not certain of what the best fittings for these are. Pex barbs are loose in this hose, I have ended up using a slightly larger barb to 1/2" NPT then that to Pex. Kind of messy but it has been working. Is there a better way ?
You do an awesome job, at demonstrating and explaining , I have to say I learned something new today , thanks to you! It goes to show , that old saying .. "I want to be wiser tommorrow than I am today ," Or was it .. "I want to be a little bit more wiser today , than yesterday " Anyways thanks for taking the time to help some of us be a little more wiser than before watching your video . ~
what you forgot to address are the PEX solid rings which I find in more and more RV's those are very difficult to remove. Also some of your methods work well on the bench but up inside an RV are very difficult to do. If you could give some advice on those, that would be great
In my rig 80% of the PEX rings were loose. And, when going from PEX to flex pipe the wrong fittings were used. Two different ID of pipe. Hot water in an RV is usually very hot, expansion happens, then contraction, add loose fittings, with assembly people under pressure to produce, leaking happens. The manufacturer almost never has to fix it's own production mistakes. I personally know several people who have had leaking pipes with new rigs. As I replace fittings I use brass, longer lasting, less expansion, and, I use a "pass fail" gauge.
I have a shurflow water that is leaking where the pressure switch attaches. Does it have a seal or or O ring. I’ve taken it apart and don’t see anything. Thanks Dennis
Thanks for the awesome video sir!!🙏🏻 I’m installing an outdoor shower by tapping into the plumbing under the kitchen sink on our trailer. This will totally help me to pick the best/easiest hardware to use. Thanks Darren!
I have found that on older trailers, the plastic fittings tend to get brittle and crack. I have had a few I have had to replace because of this. Also, they do tend to need tightening occasionally as they vibrate a lot on the road. I have a 2005 keystone challenger, and it is showing its age :)
These videos are gold! Everything is explained in detail and then shown to the audience. Darren is my go-to guy whenever I encounter an issue that needs further research. Thank -you, you are greatly appreciated!
thank you so much for the insightful video. me and my wife got a camper and found 4 leaks at said parts. gonna try to fix it here in the following weeks. ill let you know if we succeed, might take me a bit. got real bad adhd lol
Darren... at 4:02, what is that tool called? I can't find that tool anywhere, let alone Amazon! After thinking about it, I'd suggest a follow-up vid - would you consider a vid of the basics of what you would suggest RV owners take for basic Pex and plumbing repairs. Basically, what would you take in the RV for on the spot repairs?
hmm interesting, I am familiar with similar fittings working on air brake systems..... what I ran into is my fittings/couplers that look like the black fitting you show near the end. The hose nipple is actually blown off/out of the threaded portion. there is a little metal disk that is compression fit around the hose barb with the small rubber bit on it. Never seen anything like it, had 3 (that I have found) pop off/out of the threaded portion.
Thanks Darren! I thought I put I’m from Troy, Mo. Ok so, the black plastic is not necessarily worse than the brass. Is there a grommet or rubber washer inside the black plastic where it connects that might need to be replaced? Respectfully, Kevin Cooper. Troy, Mo.
great vid i have a coachmen 260 ds motor home the city water diverter has a leak in the valve that causes the pump to make annoying momentary surge. I'm replacing it but finding a replacement has been difficult. of Couse the only place I can find the part is on amazon. while i have everything apart I'm thinking of doing some mods. I as well was thinking to change all the fittings to brass but now I'm reconsidering after watching this vid/ thanks for that info. I don't have any other leaks, but have thought to change out some of the pex to a flex pipe just to make things easer to move around. again I'm now rethinking that. I could not find a vid or info anywhere on how to remove and replace the city water diverter in the water panel that can fill the storage tank or supply city water. you may want to think about it. also I tried to find a complete water panel as I'm a nerd and like to use all new parts. I was unsuccessful. great job please keep up the great vids PS home base is Elber Colorado
This is an older video, but I am just watching it now. When the viewer mentioned that it started leaking after de-winterization, I immediately thought it could be damaged from freezing. I didn't hear you mention that as a possibility, so I wanted to ask myself if it had been winterized improperly and it did freeze hard, Is there a particular place that is likely to fail first? Anywhere in the Pex? At a fitting connection or the fitting itself? Thank you for all of your work. You have great content.
We typically see freezing revealed in a few key places. The water pump itself, the water pump strainer, outside shower fixtures, toilet valves, and plastic sink fixtures. Those are the weak points in the plumbing system with regard to freeze risk. It's rare that we see a Pex line or Pex fittings fail due to freezing.
sorry I am late to the party, what is the expansion tool you use to flair the pex pipe and install the flair it ftting? Thank you and keep up the great work.
i'm planning a full bathroon rebuild in my 17 yr old kz spree. most of the plumbing for the trailer is within the bathroom, the only exceptions is the kitchen sink and the water pump. city water inlet and water heater are in the bathroom area. so i will replace all of the plumbing. i'm considering pex A because i'm familiar with it in house construction and have the expander tool. do you foresee any issues with this?
Hi Darren, I am in DFW, TX and have a 2012 Tiffin Allegro RED with two Coleman Mach 4902A4879 AC/heat pump units. My rear compressor is now short cycling. It will start, begin to cool and after 20-30 seconds, the compressor stops and the air warms. It will try again in a minute or so. I've watched your AC videos and I have tried replacing all three capacitors and the relay switch, but no change. What could I check next? Could it be the high pressure switch or coolant level? Thank you, Mike McCreary
@@raystanton238 Ray, thank you for the reply. I had cleaned the outside coils, but hadn't opened up the metal fan housing to clean the inside coils. I just finished spraying both with Frost King Air Conditioner Coil Foaming Cleaner. I let it foam down. re-assembled it all and gave it a shot. Unfortunately, I get the same results. Any other suggestions?
Just adding the foaming stuff won’t do much if the unit is not cooling since it won’t rinse itself off, and if it’s excessive buildup it won’t help much anyways. Need to take off the housing outside so you have access to both coils and spray them down with a cleaner, give it some time like 15 min, and then gently wipe off excess grime with a nylon brush and then spray down with water. I use a small 2 gallon weed sprayer and I use a non foaming cleaner so I use the sprayer both to put the cleaner on and to rinse the coils. Sounds like if it’s really that short and not closer to like 1-2 min before it cycles that you may have a leak which will happen if the filters and coils aren’t cleaned regularly. It’s worth a shot to just clean them though and perhaps you can have an hvac tech put in a new evaporator and recharge it if it does have a leak. When I bought my rig I took off the housing to clean it when it worked fine, and it had a ton of junk like small pieces of leaves and etc on the condenser on the side the air comes in, and my evaporator had a layer of thick grime on it. So if you haven’t actually pulled it apart it’s likely still very dirty. For the foaming stuff to rinse off the evaporator has to get cold and it doesn’t really self rinse on condenser coils because they don’t attract much moisture. I’ve read too that it’s never a good idea to depend on that anyways because the cleaners may corrode the copper if they’re left on and potentially cause a leak. If you need more help shoot me a message or like this comment or something like that because it never alerts me to reply’s here. Seems like you likely just have really dirty coils. Especially if that’s the one that you use the majority of the time or the fan runs a lot on that unit. I have to clean the bedroom one on mine twice as often just because we run the fan at night.
😢 I didn't winterize correctly.... i blew out a bunch of the cold water connectors like the black one in your video as well as the white one on the outdoor kitchen and one if the outdoor shower ones, but i haven't opened it up to see yet. Can I replace the black fitting with one of the ctec ones from your Amazon store? I looked but am not sure of the size. It has to screw into the kitchen faucet. Thanks for the great videos! I'm totally going to shock my husband when I fix this myself!
Help if my water system is drained and not hooked up at all. No faucets, no toilet, everything open. Do I need to somehow cap everything and winterize it anyway? Please & Ty
My pipes outside are leaking. The leaking started after Temps fell into the teens. I'm an oregon transplant. Is leaking related to weather Temps? I did leave the faucet on when it got cold so I don't understand
Thanks for another informative video Darren. My question concerns the pex tubing used in a P1 Nautilus on my Grand Design tt. A fitting behind the panel has broken and needs replacement. After removing the steel pex clamp from fitting, should I cut the pex back to a "clean" spot or can I reclamp over the old section. It was the 90 deg. fitting that broke, not the pex. Just worried about leaks from the reclamped area of pex.
A best practice I have always used is to attach the fitting to a clean square cut off PEX line. Sometimes that means I have to go up the line a little bit and replace that section or put a union on where I cut back from where the original fitting was. That is to say I'm not going to reuse the end that had a fitting on it. In my brain that side has already been fatigued and I want a nice clean fitting. I believe that's the way the fitting manufacturers expected it to be also.
On my Grand Design 22MLE the bathroom sink connections leaked. I went to Home Depot for new washers for the connectors as the stock ones did not seal correctly. Home Depot was out of stock on the washers I needed and the employee said there was a run on them, "they all leak".... I would up replacing the connector with some brass and hose clamps as the final 12 inches of the hose is not pex but some soft hose, possible neoprene or poly. Poor design in my opinion.
When I hook up my camper to city water or turn on the pump the water pour straight out the bottom of the trailer don't even know where to begin and I don't want to start pulling the thing apart because I don't know what I'm doing
Well, you either have a broken water line, or your low Point drain is open. The low Point drain is going to have two lines sticking out bottom of the RV, one for hot water one for cold water. You open those lines to drain all the water out of the system, so it's possible that one of those got left open.
Thanks for the info ,I had CPVC on my 98 Fleetwood bounder and every pipe broke ,so what the recommend pipes n fittings to use ,I'm from Jamaica living in an 1998 Fleetwood bounder didn't know that ga gets that cold to freeze and explode the pipes ,what's my best choice ,I all ready baugh 100 feet of blue Apex pipe 1/2inch and some brass elbows and tees ,,,,some of the pipes that were busted was like 12 inches apart ,I call that an explosion 💥,,,any ideas 💡 I don't want this to happen again,because know the winter isn't over
RV's leak due to a mix of PEX and vinyl tubing, they use the PEX bands and connect the vinyl flex tubing like its PEX but it isn't and its not a proper connection, you will find that almost every leak in an RV is where the vinyl tubing is mounted on a PEX connection with a PEX band. That is the problem and its way out of control. RV manufactures should be sued to oblivion for doing this and ruining RVs. They do it in hard to access areas that you will not find out until major water damage has occurred typically. I'm kind of shocked you didn't touch on this major defect that most RVs have. I see it on every stinking one of them.
I have had success using a plastic welding kit, you just have to find the right type of plastic rods to melt into the tank, usually those are poly tanks not ABS. I keep both types of rods in my service trailer. Here's a link on Amazon for what I use. amzn.to/46jTGsz
my lines that were non pex tubing were leaking from kitchen faucet hoses on elbow/T fitting pex ones were fine used worm gear clamp to reattatched problem solved this guy is making it way more complicated than it is THE NON PEX hoses are ones that leak keep PSI under 55
Plumbing (shivers) - Purchased a brand new RV. Had leaks from the inlet from day one. Tried everything from plumber's putty, plumber's tape, new hose...everything. After dealing with drips everywhere I went, finally opened up the panel and determined a micro-crack in the main inlet valve. Ended up replacing the entire assembly with Stainless and brass fittings. Finally no leaks...Next morning, wife informs me theres a leak behind the toilet. Apparently that valve assembly is more common for leaks. Now that it's not leaking...still battling a roof leak from day one. Did the Eternabond tape on the roof seams...still leaking. Beginning to think an RV is the new boat.
You have the best instructional videos on You Tube. They are to the point and detailed. I'm a new bee RV camper (2nd year) and have found your videos extremely helpful. Thanks!
Great to hear!
My trailer's toilet started leaking at the elbow at the toilet. I found out that it was the cheapest type available so went to the RV store and bought a better hose/fitting. I went as far as installing 1/4 turn shut off valves behind the toilet supply PEX line and to the water heater nearby. I also carry PEX tools, fittings, clamps and hose in the trailer.
I'm not a fan of sliding fittings.
I just fixed a leak on my rv and used the pex with the clips and fancy expensive tools. Should have watched earlier and saved a little. Either way great content. Thanks
Great video Darren it’s funny I keep some pex and some fittings in my trailer also some shark bite cause you
never know when little issues will happen lol
A water pressure regulator is needed for best results and plumbing longevity. Pex is rated above 100 psi, the plastic fittings not so much.
Very good video Darren. Gonna definitely get a few of those fittings for my rv toolbox. Thanks , Chris
What about the 1/2" vinyl tubing manufacturers are using instead of the more rigid Pex pipes. Are they more prone to leaking than the normal Pex tubing? They are all through my 2021 Grand Design RV going to faucets. The same crimp rings are used on the vinyl tubing as is used on the Pex tubes.
Bingo - I have had two of thee leak so far in my Grand Design. I'm not certain of what the best fittings for these are. Pex barbs are loose in this hose, I have ended up using a slightly larger barb to 1/2" NPT then that to Pex. Kind of messy but it has been working. Is there a better way ?
You do an awesome job, at demonstrating and explaining , I have to say I learned something new today , thanks to you!
It goes to show , that old saying .. "I want to be wiser tommorrow than I am today ,"
Or was it ..
"I want to be a little bit more wiser today , than yesterday "
Anyways thanks for taking the time to help some of us be a little more wiser than before watching your video .
~
what you forgot to address are the PEX solid rings which I find in more and more RV's those are very difficult to remove. Also some of your methods work well on the bench but up inside an RV are very difficult to do. If you could give some advice on those, that would be great
Another awesome video, Darren. Many thanks to you and to your team for putting it together...
In my rig 80% of the PEX rings were loose. And, when going from PEX to flex pipe the wrong fittings were used. Two different ID of pipe. Hot water in an RV is usually very hot, expansion happens, then contraction, add loose fittings, with assembly people under pressure to produce, leaking happens. The manufacturer almost never has to fix it's own production mistakes. I personally know several people who have had leaking pipes with new rigs. As I replace fittings I use brass, longer lasting, less expansion, and, I use a "pass fail" gauge.
I have a shurflow water that is leaking where the pressure switch attaches. Does it have a seal or or O ring. I’ve taken it apart and don’t see anything. Thanks Dennis
Nice demo. Those CTEC fittings look nice
Thanks for the awesome video sir!!🙏🏻 I’m installing an outdoor shower by tapping into the plumbing under the kitchen sink on our trailer. This will totally help me to pick the best/easiest hardware to use. Thanks Darren!
I have found that on older trailers, the plastic fittings tend to get brittle and crack. I have had a few I have had to replace because of this. Also, they do tend to need tightening occasionally as they vibrate a lot on the road. I have a 2005 keystone challenger, and it is showing its age :)
These videos are gold! Everything is explained in detail and then shown to the audience. Darren is my go-to guy whenever I encounter an issue that needs further research. Thank -you, you are greatly appreciated!
thank you so much for the insightful video. me and my wife got a camper and found 4 leaks at said parts. gonna try to fix it here in the following weeks. ill let you know if we succeed, might take me a bit. got real bad adhd lol
Great video. One I'm saving for future reference.
Great information as always. Thanks Don
Used the rings style a lot have not seen or I countered the first one in PVC only brass. Thanks
Excellent video....thank you for the great information 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Great demo as usual
Thank you for this video. ❤
Darren... at 4:02, what is that tool called? I can't find that tool anywhere, let alone Amazon! After thinking about it, I'd suggest a follow-up vid - would you consider a vid of the basics of what you would suggest RV owners take for basic Pex and plumbing repairs. Basically, what would you take in the RV for on the spot repairs?
Great, informative video!! But........I hate plumbing....just ask my wife. LOL
hmm interesting, I am familiar with similar fittings working on air brake systems..... what I ran into is my fittings/couplers that look like the black fitting you show near the end. The hose nipple is actually blown off/out of the threaded portion. there is a little metal disk that is compression fit around the hose barb with the small rubber bit on it. Never seen anything like it, had 3 (that I have found) pop off/out of the threaded portion.
Very helpful - thanks!
Fantastic video and great information...I'm happy to subscribe
Awesome, thank you!
Great info, thank you Darren
Thanks Darren! I thought I put I’m from Troy, Mo. Ok so, the black plastic is not necessarily worse than the brass. Is there a grommet or rubber washer inside the black plastic where it connects that might need to be replaced?
Respectfully, Kevin Cooper. Troy, Mo.
Great info!
Very good video
Thank you
great vid i have a coachmen 260 ds motor home the city water diverter has a leak in the valve that causes the pump to make annoying momentary surge.
I'm replacing it but finding a replacement has been difficult. of Couse the only place I can find the part is on amazon. while i have everything apart I'm thinking of doing some mods. I as well was thinking to change all the fittings to brass but now I'm reconsidering after watching this vid/ thanks for that info. I don't have any other leaks, but have thought to change out some of the pex to a flex pipe just to make things easer to move around. again I'm now rethinking that. I could not find a vid or info anywhere on how to remove and replace the city water diverter in the water panel that can fill the storage tank or supply city water. you may want to think about it. also I tried to find a complete water panel as I'm a nerd and like to use all new parts. I was unsuccessful. great job please keep up the great vids PS home base is Elber Colorado
Do you have any black tank repair videos
Turn the pinch crimper 90 degrees and it will cut the pinch ring off. Then heat a little bit with heat gun or micro torch
Thanks.
Excellent!!!!!
This is an older video, but I am just watching it now. When the viewer mentioned that it started leaking after de-winterization, I immediately thought it could be damaged from freezing. I didn't hear you mention that as a possibility, so I wanted to ask myself if it had been winterized improperly and it did freeze hard, Is there a particular place that is likely to fail first? Anywhere in the Pex? At a fitting connection or the fitting itself? Thank you for all of your work. You have great content.
We typically see freezing revealed in a few key places. The water pump itself, the water pump strainer, outside shower fixtures, toilet valves, and plastic sink fixtures. Those are the weak points in the plumbing system with regard to freeze risk. It's rare that we see a Pex line or Pex fittings fail due to freezing.
sorry I am late to the party, what is the expansion tool you use to flair the pex pipe and install the flair it ftting? Thank you and keep up the great work.
What about using those clamps that screw tight instead of the pinch kind? They seem way easier to use.
i'm planning a full bathroon rebuild in my 17 yr old kz spree. most of the plumbing for the trailer is within the bathroom, the only exceptions is the kitchen sink and the water pump. city water inlet and water heater are in the bathroom area. so i will replace all of the plumbing. i'm considering pex A because i'm familiar with it in house construction and have the expander tool. do you foresee any issues with this?
Hi Darren,
I am in DFW, TX and have a 2012 Tiffin Allegro RED with two Coleman Mach 4902A4879 AC/heat pump units. My rear compressor is now short cycling. It will start, begin to cool and after 20-30 seconds, the compressor stops and the air warms. It will try again in a minute or so. I've watched your AC videos and I have tried replacing all three capacitors and the relay switch, but no change. What could I check next? Could it be the high pressure switch or coolant level?
Thank you,
Mike McCreary
It could be a dirty condenser.
@@raystanton238 Ray, thank you for the reply. I had cleaned the outside coils, but hadn't opened up the metal fan housing to clean the inside coils. I just finished spraying both with Frost King Air Conditioner Coil Foaming Cleaner. I let it foam down. re-assembled it all and gave it a shot. Unfortunately, I get the same results. Any other suggestions?
Just adding the foaming stuff won’t do much if the unit is not cooling since it won’t rinse itself off, and if it’s excessive buildup it won’t help much anyways. Need to take off the housing outside so you have access to both coils and spray them down with a cleaner, give it some time like 15 min, and then gently wipe off excess grime with a nylon brush and then spray down with water. I use a small 2 gallon weed sprayer and I use a non foaming cleaner so I use the sprayer both to put the cleaner on and to rinse the coils. Sounds like if it’s really that short and not closer to like 1-2 min before it cycles that you may have a leak which will happen if the filters and coils aren’t cleaned regularly. It’s worth a shot to just clean them though and perhaps you can have an hvac tech put in a new evaporator and recharge it if it does have a leak. When I bought my rig I took off the housing to clean it when it worked fine, and it had a ton of junk like small pieces of leaves and etc on the condenser on the side the air comes in, and my evaporator had a layer of thick grime on it. So if you haven’t actually pulled it apart it’s likely still very dirty. For the foaming stuff to rinse off the evaporator has to get cold and it doesn’t really self rinse on condenser coils because they don’t attract much moisture. I’ve read too that it’s never a good idea to depend on that anyways because the cleaners may corrode the copper if they’re left on and potentially cause a leak. If you need more help shoot me a message or like this comment or something like that because it never alerts me to reply’s here. Seems like you likely just have really dirty coils. Especially if that’s the one that you use the majority of the time or the fan runs a lot on that unit. I have to clean the bedroom one on mine twice as often just because we run the fan at night.
@@mrjjman2010excellent information, thank you
😢 I didn't winterize correctly.... i blew out a bunch of the cold water connectors like the black one in your video as well as the white one on the outdoor kitchen and one if the outdoor shower ones, but i haven't opened it up to see yet. Can I replace the black fitting with one of the ctec ones from your Amazon store? I looked but am not sure of the size. It has to screw into the kitchen faucet. Thanks for the great videos! I'm totally going to shock my husband when I fix this myself!
Excellent information. But you forgot to say spit on it before you stick it in
Help if my water system is drained and not hooked up at all. No faucets, no toilet, everything open. Do I need to somehow cap everything and winterize it anyway? Please & Ty
RV Stuff you Should Know-
A whole playlist of helpful RV Tips and tricks
th-cam.com/play/PL8KoNiyMVd5mH-wno_k_7Ug4krY3eMXeX.html
My pipes outside are leaking. The leaking started after Temps fell into the teens. I'm an oregon transplant. Is leaking related to weather Temps? I did leave the faucet on when it got cold so I don't understand
My black tank valve handle is stuck in. But valve appears to be open.
All of my leaks on my 2021 Flagstaff are where the pex clamps are on the vinyl hoses. What is the best fix for that?
Thanks for another informative video Darren. My question concerns the pex tubing used in a P1 Nautilus on my Grand Design tt. A fitting behind the panel has broken and needs replacement. After removing the steel pex clamp from fitting, should I cut the pex back to a "clean" spot or can I reclamp over the old section. It was the 90 deg. fitting that broke, not the pex. Just worried about leaks from the reclamped area of pex.
A best practice I have always used is to attach the fitting to a clean square cut off PEX line. Sometimes that means I have to go up the line a little bit and replace that section or put a union on where I cut back from where the original fitting was. That is to say I'm not going to reuse the end that had a fitting on it. In my brain that side has already been fatigued and I want a nice clean fitting. I believe that's the way the fitting manufacturers expected it to be also.
@@MyRVWorks Thank you, I thought as much, but always good to have your opinion on my repairs. Your advice and experience are my trusted "go to"!
Where can I buy these
Tools you are using AMAZON?
We put a link on our website that will launch into different places for tools.
myrvworks.com/myrvworks-store/
On my Grand Design 22MLE the bathroom sink connections leaked. I went to Home Depot for new washers for the connectors as the stock ones did not seal correctly. Home Depot was out of stock on the washers I needed and the employee said there was a run on them, "they all leak".... I would up replacing the connector with some brass and hose clamps as the final 12 inches of the hose is not pex but some soft hose, possible neoprene or poly. Poor design in my opinion.
When I hook up my camper to city water or turn on the pump the water pour straight out the bottom of the trailer don't even know where to begin and I don't want to start pulling the thing apart because I don't know what I'm doing
Well, you either have a broken water line, or your low Point drain is open. The low Point drain is going to have two lines sticking out bottom of the RV, one for hot water one for cold water. You open those lines to drain all the water out of the system, so it's possible that one of those got left open.
Every line is leaking on my camper from the clamp style
Thanks for the info ,I had CPVC on my 98 Fleetwood bounder and every pipe broke ,so what the recommend pipes n fittings to use ,I'm from Jamaica living in an 1998 Fleetwood bounder didn't know that ga gets that cold to freeze and explode the pipes ,what's my best choice ,I all ready baugh 100 feet of blue Apex pipe 1/2inch and some brass elbows and tees ,,,,some of the pipes that were busted was like 12 inches apart ,I call that an explosion 💥,,,any ideas 💡 I don't want this to happen again,because know the winter isn't over
Buddy I get it, I too have cpvc. This video didn't help much. I need the first fitting he showed except for cpvc. I don't know what it's called
RV's leak due to a mix of PEX and vinyl tubing, they use the PEX bands and connect the vinyl flex tubing like its PEX but it isn't and its not a proper connection, you will find that almost every leak in an RV is where the vinyl tubing is mounted on a PEX connection with a PEX band. That is the problem and its way out of control. RV manufactures should be sued to oblivion for doing this and ruining RVs. They do it in hard to access areas that you will not find out until major water damage has occurred typically. I'm kind of shocked you didn't touch on this major defect that most RVs have. I see it on every stinking one of them.
The wrong type of tubing could also be a problem.
What is the proper name of the push type fitting you used?I tried looking up CTEC & got nothing on Amazon.Thanks.
This should get your search started: amzn.to/3Bo6Ac7
@@MyRVWorks Thank you I started watching your vids & I’m learning more & more about my rv.
How to fix a Crack in your fresh water drain plug
I have had success using a plastic welding kit, you just have to find the right type of plastic rods to melt into the tank, usually those are poly tanks not ABS. I keep both types of rods in my service trailer. Here's a link on Amazon for what I use.
amzn.to/46jTGsz
my lines that were non pex tubing were leaking from kitchen faucet hoses on elbow/T fitting pex ones were fine used worm gear clamp to reattatched problem solved this guy is making it way more complicated than it is THE NON PEX hoses are ones that leak keep PSI under 55
This is useless information. 95 % of RV leaks are in the soft flexible lines improperly fastened to PEX fittings.