*Support what we do* at KMTools.com Get the *Katz-Moses Brass Chisel Mallet* with Non Marking Replaceable Faces shop.kmtools.com/brasschiselmallet *The Most Comprehensive Sharpening Test Ever Done* th-cam.com/video/GBjiEmN5HzA/w-d-xo.html
I am a beginner to woodwork, the main test I have with this bundle th-cam.com/users/postUgkxTNB_zFBSnTo_O1PqfVUwgi7ityw0JlKt is that I think that its hard to settle on a choice of the plan and outline to use as there are a large portion of them there. Nonetheless, I like the simple stride to step directions laid out there.
I've spent the past year and a half learning power tool woodworking from your videos after I moved to coastal southern Mexico. We built an off-grid house, and I have traded all of my machines in for hand tools and have fallen even more in love with the craft. Thanks for all you do to help those in their woodworking journies!
Great video. I'm pretty new to woodworking, and I only have a couple of planes: a #5 and a block plane, both Stanleys. I picked an ambitious first project that involves surfacing a bunch of 6x4 rough timbers. I'm still removing material; not focusing on flatness yet, but I have started angling my #5 across the width of the face to keep it relatively even. A 14" plane angling across a 6" face still keeps most of the sole on the surface. One thing I never thought to do (but I will next time I head down to my basement) is camber my blade slightly at the edges. Right now I get distinct edges on each stroke. But on the whole, thanks to the tips here and on the Canadian woodworking forums, my project is going quite smoothly.
I gotta tell you, I’ve always kept my planes razor sharp. I didn’t think it could get any better. But, not long ago I bought your “scary sharp” system and oh my gawd! 😮 Now I know what you mean when you say your planes have to be razor sharp. I just spent an entire evening resharpening ever plane blade and chisel I have. Thanks for putting out such a great product, (and especially at such a reasonable price). By the way, I got your no deflection stop block at the same time, and it is absolutely perfecto! Tighten both knobs and the thing doesn’t move at all. It is way better than blue name brand stops I own. They have now been moved to my junk drawer. Anywho… thanks again and take care Jonathan! ☮️
@@katzmosestools You are quite welcome… I’m just saying it like it is. You, Rob Cosman and Paul Sellers are the woodworkers I follow. It’s because you are all so good at what you do, and I enjoy your personalities. You have definitely helped me get better at this thing we do, and I thank you for it. I’ll be back in your store soon… gotta get another stop and some backup Scary Sharp sheets. They are really fantastic.. no more messy spray glue! 😁 Until then, take care, and have a great evening. ☮️
The hump is from how, when, and where you're putting force into the plane. The fix is super easy. It's all about preventing yourself from putting the hump into the board in the first place. At the beginning of the stroke, make sure all of of downward force is applied only to the front end. Your back hand should put absolutely no downward force into the tote at this point, only forward momentum. The tote should feel totally loose in your hand. Your front hand is really doing all the driving at this point. Sometimes I won't even bother to squeeze the tote, instead just providing forward movement with only the web of my thumb. As you push forward, begin to add downward pressure only after the tote is fully supported by the board. These steps prevent forming the ramp up into a hump on the leading end of the board. In the middle of the board, even out the downward pressure between both hands, and keep only enough downward pressure to maintain control of the plane. The weight of the plane itself really provides all the downward pressure needed for the blade to work. As you approach the end of the board, gradually remove all downward pressure from the knob or toe, and keep only enough downward pressure on the tote to keep driving straight, maintaining the back half of the plane as your primary registration surface. I'll often remove my front hand from the front of the plane entirely before I reach the end of the board. That step prevents forming the far end of the hump by keeping the front of the plane from diving off. You can actually see this nose diving behavior in some of the shots in this video before you address the hump issue. If your front hand dips at the end of the stroke, you know you're applying too much pressure at the last 5 or 6 inches of the board. Break the habit, and you'll notice you have to fix a lot fewer humps. The whole fluid motion should almost feel like you're attempting to plane a very shallow concave surface, taking a scoop out of the board. Your muscles might feel that way, but in the end you'll find you have a flat board.
my first hand plane was a #4 Stanly, just picked up a small (yet unidentified) hand plane from a market. It was rusted and I'm restoring it, and your advice for setup is amazing. Thank you
About pressure on a bench plane, you hold the front of the plane down on the wood with the knob. But as the knob passes the far end of the wood, you are no longer pressing down on a plane. So sole is now a lever and your knob hand is pivoting the front down, and the back up, with the far edge of the wood acting as a fulcrum. So it works to ease off on the knob and shift a little weight to the tote.
I couldn't remember which video it was where you commented about the hump in longer boards. My guess is that the hand planes don't have an infeed and outfeed tables at different heights. I am just starting to play with the Japanese pull style planes, and thus far, that does not seem to be a problem. I am guessing that part of that is the slightly concaved surfaces before and after the plane blade. More experimenting ahead!
@kelvinwolf225 Hey, dude! Great to see you here as well! 😃 Yeah, woodworking is another of my hobbies! And electronics as well... I watch even videos about quantum mechanics and cosmology... 😂
recently I realized how perfect hands are created, to be honest why the more I get into this hobby, I want to use hand tools, but why hand tools are so expensive 😭
I'm trying to figure out how to set up and use an old Millers Falls #56B. Any tips? The mouth is adjustable, but the blade still sits pretty far back from the mouth at the furthest back setting.
I just started with planes, because i got 4 old planes when I cleaned out my in-laws house, the best one is a Firestone supreme and I restored it, but I have a lot of trouble getting them set right, I think mostly because I don't know how, or if something is not right with them,any how I love your videos, I'll keep trying and watching, thanks for helping!!!
Good video. What I have looked for is a 'Beginner's exercises' video for the hand planes. With the sharpening jigs, and so many sharpening videos, that is the easy part. You just touched on how to remove a crown in your board. Still needed would be how to remove a concave board edge. You get the edge straight but it isn't square, so how do you square it up? Do you adjust the blade to take more off the high side? Or? Rex did a good one on flattening a board, but that could be expanded. How to remove or fix a concave or convex surface, how to fix a crowned board. Maybe also how to know when the board you selected needs to be cut into short pieces, or ripped down the middle. I figure that in order to learn how to use these planes, you need to take a number of boards and plane them down to just shavings......
"Can't afford a jointer so you get a big long plane like this" lol Yeah, I know you can get a quality jointer plane for less than that. It just made me chuckle.
You forgot one of the bigger ones, practice practice practice. However, don’t buy some cheap lumber from your big box store to practice on. Find a nice good clean piece of pine and practice on that. Make mistakes on it, go to deep and see how it reacts, go off slightly and see how you might make a twist on the top of the board and then correct it. Any woodworking store usually has a bunch of cheap scrap pieces you can practice on.
Hello Jonathan, I am a fan and viewer that has learned a lot from watching your videos. I was just watching James Wright talk about a Taytools Jack plane that he seems to like. I was watching Rex Krueger just before watching this video, and I consider him another expert much like yourself. I certainly don't expect to hear anything positive from expert Rob Cosman about anything but, Wood River and I do understand his loyalty to that brand. Can I ask you a huge favor to possibly give me your thoughts as an expert on wood planes by the Taylor brand? I have just had a terrible experience buying a new Stanley, Bailey style plane and it was not good. I complained and they sent me a second bad plane to replace the first one free of charge. I complained again and told them I did not want to third Stanley plane and asked to get my money refunded, which they did agree too. Please, kind sir, can I get your thoughts?
OK. I’ve heard “skewing changes the angle” from a number of trusted sources. And,also, that it doesn’t matter. Since the angle is referenced to the sole and frog (which don’t move), I’m pretty sure it’s a reference to the “angle of attack” that changes (the amount of blade width performing the severing). What do you think?
Hey Jonathan, nice video. To tackle the rust problem I have used CMT blade cleaning solution on all of my hand plane. Basically, you put a bit on and leave it to dry. It has anti-corrosion agent that will help rust prevention. Obviously, there are other products out there but I found this very easy to use.
I feel stupid for asking, but the biggest issue I have is identifying situations where I should even be reaching for my planes. Every few months I get the urge to start using them more, but I just end up using them on scrap boards and checking my understanding of sharpening and adjustment. I struggle to understand how they can fit into my workflow on real projects.
What helped me with this was doing one project 100% hand tool. Just a simple box or something. I'm no expert, but it did give me more confidence in using them on other projects afterwards.
Great video, thanks for the tips. When sharpening does it matter if you push the blade away from you or pull it back to you on the stone and does it differ with the kind of stone you use?
Just a caution for novices out there… as soon as an internet “plane expert” refers to a part called the chip breaker… leave the channel and find something different. Hand planes do not have chip breakers… as there’s no need to “break chips” in the planing activity. The piece of steel immediately pressing on the top side of the blade is called (in all Stanley parts schematics) either an iron cap or a back iron. It’s purpose is to stiffen the blade and minimize/eliminate chatter. Nothing else. On older wood body planes that used a much thicker piece of steel for the blade, this part did not even exist, as the need to stiffen the blade was unnecessary. If planes need to “break chips”, then all planes would need this part. Which isn’t the case.
Lol just a caution for anyone reading this nutters comment… as soon as some guy on the internet comments that he doesn’t agree with the commonly accepted term for something and discounts the vast knowledge of all the “plane experts” including people like Rob Cosman and Paul Sellers or the literal product listings from companies like Lee Valley or Lie Neilsen then you can discount everything he says. Side note: why do people who know everything watch how-to videos? 🤦♂️😮💨💩 www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/blades/115590-hock-hcs-o1-blade-and-chip-breaker-sets www.woodcraft.com/products/hock-chip-breaker-2 www.lie-nielsen.com/nodes/4201/lie-nielsen-chipbreakers
Low angle planes with bevel up are cutting within a few degrees of a bevel down. A 20 degree low angle bed, add the angle of the blade grind 25-30, do the math. A 12 degree bed, 25 degree bevel, add secondary bevel, then maybe tertiary bevel, you're around 40 degree cut. Is that enough difference to make a difference? Bevel down doesn't matter much as long as the grind does not exceed bed angle, it's 45 degrees. I've never heard a scrub plane called a Fore plane, typically a #6 plane (Stanley reference size) is a Fore plane. Maybe you Eastern folk just have different terminology. I do like my low angle block planes, mostly for the comfort of the tool in hand not because the angle of cut is better (because it really isn't).
"This is REALLY important. You want to be at least 1/32 away from the edge so you can set it between 1/64th and 1/32nd." Umm, so should it be more (at least) or less (between 1/64th and 1/32nd) away from the edge of the blade?
Great tips! I always learn something from your videos, and I love your products. It’s been a while since you’ve done a build video though…… just saying 😅
The lever cap was never designed to remove the chip breaker screw...that's why you see so many broken lever caps!...but it is your tool you can do as you please .
You have great content, sir. I’m confused though. You obviously watch and know about Paul Sellers. But then you say you can’t use a #4 one-handed. It was at that point I realized, you are a silly-person.
@@katzmosestools like I said before, it’s a Paul Sellers standard procedure. Any task you’d use a block plane for, you can do one handed with a #4. I’m not saying to use a #4 to smooth a panel with one hand. But all the little one handed things you can do, can be done with that plane.
#12. DON’T put the plane down on the work surface resting the blade of the plane on the work surface. “London to a brick” when you next pick up the plane you will, drag the blade along the work surface.
*Support what we do* at KMTools.com
Get the *Katz-Moses Brass Chisel Mallet* with Non Marking Replaceable Faces shop.kmtools.com/brasschiselmallet
*The Most Comprehensive Sharpening Test Ever Done* th-cam.com/video/GBjiEmN5HzA/w-d-xo.html
I am a beginner to woodwork, the main test I have with this bundle th-cam.com/users/postUgkxTNB_zFBSnTo_O1PqfVUwgi7ityw0JlKt is that I think that its hard to settle on a choice of the plan and outline to use as there are a large portion of them there. Nonetheless, I like the simple stride to step directions laid out there.
I've spent the past year and a half learning power tool woodworking from your videos after I moved to coastal southern Mexico. We built an off-grid house, and I have traded all of my machines in for hand tools and have fallen even more in love with the craft. Thanks for all you do to help those in their woodworking journies!
Great video. I'm pretty new to woodworking, and I only have a couple of planes: a #5 and a block plane, both Stanleys. I picked an ambitious first project that involves surfacing a bunch of 6x4 rough timbers. I'm still removing material; not focusing on flatness yet, but I have started angling my #5 across the width of the face to keep it relatively even. A 14" plane angling across a 6" face still keeps most of the sole on the surface.
One thing I never thought to do (but I will next time I head down to my basement) is camber my blade slightly at the edges. Right now I get distinct edges on each stroke. But on the whole, thanks to the tips here and on the Canadian woodworking forums, my project is going quite smoothly.
New to hand planes--Rob Cossman videos are baffling to me--this was excellent. Thanks, Jonathan.
I gotta tell you, I’ve always kept my planes razor sharp. I didn’t think it could get any better. But, not long ago I bought your “scary sharp” system and oh my gawd! 😮 Now I know what you mean when you say your planes have to be razor sharp. I just spent an entire evening resharpening ever plane blade and chisel I have. Thanks for putting out such a great product, (and especially at such a reasonable price). By the way, I got your no deflection stop block at the same time, and it is absolutely perfecto! Tighten both knobs and the thing doesn’t move at all. It is way better than blue name brand stops I own. They have now been moved to my junk drawer. Anywho… thanks again and take care Jonathan! ☮️
That means a lot. Thank you my friend!
@@katzmosestools You are quite welcome… I’m just saying it like it is. You, Rob Cosman and Paul Sellers are the woodworkers I follow. It’s because you are all so good at what you do, and I enjoy your personalities. You have definitely helped me get better at this thing we do, and I thank you for it. I’ll be back in your store soon… gotta get another stop and some backup Scary Sharp sheets. They are really fantastic.. no more messy spray glue! 😁 Until then, take care, and have a great evening. ☮️
Trying to get a #7 and I'll have everything I need. Bought a #4 and a #5 on Ebay. These are great tips, I keep working at it and am getting better.
I'm restoring some hand planes that have been in a shed for 10 years. Once done this will help me set them up nicely 👌
So fun restoring planes
A mini seminar! Thanks JKM.
The hump is from how, when, and where you're putting force into the plane. The fix is super easy. It's all about preventing yourself from putting the hump into the board in the first place.
At the beginning of the stroke, make sure all of of downward force is applied only to the front end. Your back hand should put absolutely no downward force into the tote at this point, only forward momentum. The tote should feel totally loose in your hand. Your front hand is really doing all the driving at this point. Sometimes I won't even bother to squeeze the tote, instead just providing forward movement with only the web of my thumb. As you push forward, begin to add downward pressure only after the tote is fully supported by the board. These steps prevent forming the ramp up into a hump on the leading end of the board.
In the middle of the board, even out the downward pressure between both hands, and keep only enough downward pressure to maintain control of the plane. The weight of the plane itself really provides all the downward pressure needed for the blade to work.
As you approach the end of the board, gradually remove all downward pressure from the knob or toe, and keep only enough downward pressure on the tote to keep driving straight, maintaining the back half of the plane as your primary registration surface. I'll often remove my front hand from the front of the plane entirely before I reach the end of the board. That step prevents forming the far end of the hump by keeping the front of the plane from diving off. You can actually see this nose diving behavior in some of the shots in this video before you address the hump issue. If your front hand dips at the end of the stroke, you know you're applying too much pressure at the last 5 or 6 inches of the board. Break the habit, and you'll notice you have to fix a lot fewer humps.
The whole fluid motion should almost feel like you're attempting to plane a very shallow concave surface, taking a scoop out of the board. Your muscles might feel that way, but in the end you'll find you have a flat board.
Probably one of the most well written, articulate comments I've read on you tube in years.
Finally someone who explained what I did wrong with my planes. Thank you!
Great tips. Just started a new project and used a hand plane to flatten a board I had to resaw. It came out great and these tips were very helpful.
my first hand plane was a #4 Stanly, just picked up a small (yet unidentified) hand plane from a market. It was rusted and I'm restoring it, and your advice for setup is amazing. Thank you
Thanks Jonathan, always fun to watch
Thanks Marc!
Great video lots of great information for beginners thanks for sharing
Great info. thanks for sharing!
Thanks!
Try the rust eraser lee valley sale them rob cosmon too. It’s like the magic eraser but for rust. The perfect thing for surface rust on the shop !
thank you
Nice collection of Lie-Neilson hand planes!
I just started getting into using planes and your videos have been a god send. It's always exciting to see what you are going to teach us next.
I really appreciate it my friend
thanks
Great information. Thanks Jonathan. I need to invest in more planes. This video helped.
I really have enjoyed incorporating them into my work flow
thats a great video. and yes shana tova
About pressure on a bench plane, you hold the front of the plane down on the wood with the knob. But as the knob passes the far end of the wood, you are no longer pressing down on a plane. So sole is now a lever and your knob hand is pivoting the front down, and the back up, with the far edge of the wood acting as a fulcrum. So it works to ease off on the knob and shift a little weight to the tote.
Great information thanks
Thank you so much!
I couldn't remember which video it was where you commented about the hump in longer boards. My guess is that the hand planes don't have an infeed and outfeed tables at different heights. I am just starting to play with the Japanese pull style planes, and thus far, that does not seem to be a problem. I am guessing that part of that is the slightly concaved surfaces before and after the plane blade. More experimenting ahead!
Been using hand planes for a few years now and still learned some new tips. Thank you
just subscribed!! Great video
JKM leaning HARD into the "ck" in knicker.
Well done, my dude.
Great info user friendly love the red and black stack-on im the background 325 lb weight capacity be safe sir
Excellent tips, thanks!
Amazing tips, Jonathan! Thanks a bunch! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I see you all over fpv, and now I see you here haha. Let's fly from chairs we've made ourselves, brother!
@kelvinwolf225 Hey, dude! Great to see you here as well! 😃
Yeah, woodworking is another of my hobbies! And electronics as well... I watch even videos about quantum mechanics and cosmology... 😂
recently I realized how perfect hands are created, to be honest why the more I get into this hobby, I want to use hand tools, but why hand tools are so expensive 😭
The precision of JKM saying nicker made me snicker lol
I'm trying to figure out how to set up and use an old Millers Falls #56B. Any tips? The mouth is adjustable, but the blade still sits pretty far back from the mouth at the furthest back setting.
I just started with planes, because i got 4 old planes when I cleaned out my in-laws house, the best one is a Firestone supreme and I restored it, but I have a lot of trouble getting them set right, I think mostly because I don't know how, or if something is not right with them,any how I love your videos, I'll keep trying and watching, thanks for helping!!!
"All the accuracy of a blind guy at a urinal" ? Never heard that before now! Seriously though, good tips for using a plane, thanks
What are your thoughts on electric hand planes
Good video. What I have looked for is a 'Beginner's exercises' video for the hand planes. With the sharpening jigs, and so many sharpening videos, that is the easy part. You just touched on how to remove a crown in your board. Still needed would be how to remove a concave board edge. You get the edge straight but it isn't square, so how do you square it up? Do you adjust the blade to take more off the high side? Or? Rex did a good one on flattening a board, but that could be expanded. How to remove or fix a concave or convex surface, how to fix a crowned board. Maybe also how to know when the board you selected needs to be cut into short pieces, or ripped down the middle. I figure that in order to learn how to use these planes, you need to take a number of boards and plane them down to just shavings......
"Can't afford a jointer so you get a big long plane like this"
lol
Yeah, I know you can get a quality jointer plane for less than that. It just made me chuckle.
I wouldn't tap the plane. I find using a small Warrington pein hammer works perfectly well.
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
You forgot one of the bigger ones, practice practice practice. However, don’t buy some cheap lumber from your big box store to practice on. Find a nice good clean piece of pine and practice on that. Make mistakes on it, go to deep and see how it reacts, go off slightly and see how you might make a twist on the top of the board and then correct it. Any woodworking store usually has a bunch of cheap scrap pieces you can practice on.
Just learned more in twenty minutes watching this, than I did in two years with my carpentry teacher at school, , , , great vid 👍
I find a stick of pure Bee's Wax to be arguably the cheapest, longest lasting, and least residue leaving lubricant for the bottom of the plane.
Rob Cosman sells his custom made wax that comes in a stick, so you just scribble a curly line on the sole as the sole starts to stick.
p.s. Yes, I have one and would recommend it from actually using it.
The biggest difference in my woodworking came when I learned to sharpen properly, and sharpen often. I feel like that's 90% of it.
Word.
All I can say Big Guy is that it is plain to see what you are saying, get it plain (plane) the old one's are the best. All the best from Scotland.
Always a pleasure to watch thanks for the great tips and by the way my router plane I bought from you is such a joy to use it’s quality plus
Hello Jonathan, I am a fan and viewer that has learned a lot from watching your videos. I was just watching James Wright talk about a Taytools Jack plane that he seems to like. I was watching Rex Krueger just before watching this video, and I consider him another expert much like yourself. I certainly don't expect to hear anything positive from expert Rob Cosman about anything but, Wood River and I do understand his loyalty to that brand. Can I ask you a huge favor to possibly give me your thoughts as an expert on wood planes by the Taylor brand? I have just had a terrible experience buying a new Stanley, Bailey style plane and it was not good. I complained and they sent me a second bad plane to replace the first one free of charge. I complained again and told them I did not want to third Stanley plane and asked to get my money refunded, which they did agree too. Please, kind sir, can I get your thoughts?
Don't sweat the lever cap hate, man. As far as I'm concerned, it's your tool. Pick your teeth with it, if you so desire. Great tips!
OK. I’ve heard “skewing changes the angle” from a number of trusted sources. And,also, that it doesn’t matter. Since the angle is referenced to the sole and frog (which don’t move), I’m pretty sure it’s a reference to the “angle of attack” that changes (the amount of blade width performing the severing). What do you think?
Always a pleasure to watch and learn from your videos. Keep up the great work !!
Thank you my friend!
" A blind guy at a urinal," priceless.
No need to do 30 pulls on the back. 2 to 4 will do. Keeping it as flat as possible.
4:25 …feel wood… 😂
😂😂
Hey Jonathan, nice video. To tackle the rust problem I have used CMT blade cleaning solution on all of my hand plane. Basically, you put a bit on and leave it to dry. It has anti-corrosion agent that will help rust prevention. Obviously, there are other products out there but I found this very easy to use.
I feel stupid for asking, but the biggest issue I have is identifying situations where I should even be reaching for my planes. Every few months I get the urge to start using them more, but I just end up using them on scrap boards and checking my understanding of sharpening and adjustment. I struggle to understand how they can fit into my workflow on real projects.
What helped me with this was doing one project 100% hand tool. Just a simple box or something. I'm no expert, but it did give me more confidence in using them on other projects afterwards.
Using the lever cap to unscrew the chip breaker is a glass shattering moment for me. Did not know that. I’ve always used a flat head 😂
Thanks Jonathan! Quick question: do you camber the blades used with the Lie Nielsen 62 or 164?
Great video, thanks for the tips. When sharpening does it matter if you push the blade away from you or pull it back to you on the stone and does it differ with the kind of stone you use?
Oh man you have to watch my last video. Doesn’t matter unless you’re using the scary sharp lapping film
Just a caution for novices out there… as soon as an internet “plane expert” refers to a part called the chip breaker… leave the channel and find something different. Hand planes do not have chip breakers… as there’s no need to “break chips” in the planing activity. The piece of steel immediately pressing on the top side of the blade is called (in all Stanley parts schematics) either an iron cap or a back iron. It’s purpose is to stiffen the blade and minimize/eliminate chatter. Nothing else. On older wood body planes that used a much thicker piece of steel for the blade, this part did not even exist, as the need to stiffen the blade was unnecessary. If planes need to “break chips”, then all planes would need this part. Which isn’t the case.
Lol just a caution for anyone reading this nutters comment… as soon as some guy on the internet comments that he doesn’t agree with the commonly accepted term for something and discounts the vast knowledge of all the “plane experts” including people like Rob Cosman and Paul Sellers or the literal product listings from companies like Lee Valley or Lie Neilsen then you can discount everything he says. Side note: why do people who know everything watch how-to videos? 🤦♂️😮💨💩
www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/blades/115590-hock-hcs-o1-blade-and-chip-breaker-sets
www.woodcraft.com/products/hock-chip-breaker-2
www.lie-nielsen.com/nodes/4201/lie-nielsen-chipbreakers
Low angle planes with bevel up are cutting within a few degrees of a bevel down. A 20 degree low angle bed, add the angle of the blade grind 25-30, do the math. A 12 degree bed, 25 degree bevel, add secondary bevel, then maybe tertiary bevel, you're around 40 degree cut. Is that enough difference to make a difference? Bevel down doesn't matter much as long as the grind does not exceed bed angle, it's 45 degrees. I've never heard a scrub plane called a Fore plane, typically a #6 plane (Stanley reference size) is a Fore plane. Maybe you Eastern folk just have different terminology. I do like my low angle block planes, mostly for the comfort of the tool in hand not because the angle of cut is better (because it really isn't).
why did he spell out nicker like a spelling bee? still 10/10 video content and helpfulness and expertise
"This is REALLY important. You want to be at least 1/32 away from the edge so you can set it between 1/64th and 1/32nd." Umm, so should it be more (at least) or less (between 1/64th and 1/32nd) away from the edge of the blade?
Anywhere in there is fine my pedantic friend
Great tips! I always learn something from your videos, and I love your products. It’s been a while since you’ve done a build video though…… just saying 😅
No the lever cap is not designed loosen any screws
What? I use my no 5 one handed all the time lol
The lever cap was never designed to remove the chip breaker screw...that's why you see so many broken lever caps!...but it is your tool you can do as you please .
Why are they so expensive
Is this Jimmy Kimmel?! 😂 He sounds and looks the same
Easily the most complicated tool in the shop. You mention all the plane numbers but nothing about what that means.
Why do you hold your plane like that
NNNOOOOOOOOO, lever caps are NOT designed for removing the chipbreaker screw!!! Please don't abuse your tools!
You have great content, sir. I’m confused though. You obviously watch and know about Paul Sellers. But then you say you can’t use a #4 one-handed. It was at that point I realized, you are a silly-person.
Have you ever tried to use a #4 one handed? Not easy or practical
@@katzmosestools like I said before, it’s a Paul Sellers standard procedure. Any task you’d use a block plane for, you can do one handed with a #4.
I’m not saying to use a #4 to smooth a panel with one hand. But all the little one handed things you can do, can be done with that plane.
#12. DON’T put the plane down on the work surface resting the blade of the plane on the work surface. “London to a brick” when you next pick up the plane you will, drag the blade along the work surface.
This old debate. Disagree completely. Setting on its side bumps the blade just like I did with the mallet.
Where and who told you the lever cap is designed to loosen the cap screw? I personally would never use it for that but to each his own