Shelly1 without Neutral make a DIY bypass circuit hack!

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ธ.ค. 2024

ความคิดเห็น • 85

  • @rwtha6475
    @rwtha6475 10 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Man. you made my day!!!
    I've been searching the internet for days to find out how shelly bypass works or to find a cirquit diagram.
    My intention was the same as yours: how to design a DIY solution that provides the "without neutral" functionality - for sure at much lower costs as buying the original shelly bypass.
    Thank you so much for your video(s) about this solution!!!
    Well presented and explained. Easy to undestand and to copy into my installation.
    Thumbs up.
    Keep up the good work!
    kind regards from Frankonia ( / bavaria / germany)

    • @MyProjectBoxChannel
      @MyProjectBoxChannel  10 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Thank you. My circuit works in a slightly different way than the official shelly bypass. Its works with most LED bulbs/Lights, but not all types. LED bulbs with a "capacitor-dropper" LED driver , will NOT work.
      Although the circuit works well, I have made several "improvements" , to make It more robust, and able to handle bigger loads, without blowing the fusible resistor. The main difference, is the fusible resistor is now in series with the capacitor, so it won't have to carry the full load current. th-cam.com/video/mznx0xoF8Ck/w-d-xo.html

  • @3mic0r81
    @3mic0r81 7 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    This hack working great also with the Shelly 1 Mini Gen 3.
    As a capacitor, I found a 450V 10 uF and I use this instead of the suggested 400V 10uF.
    Thanks a lot for this video, incredibly useful and well explained. 🙂

    • @MyProjectBoxChannel
      @MyProjectBoxChannel  7 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      Very nice! Thanks for sharing your findings. It's great to know that it works with the newer version too😉. I can't test my circuits with every smart switch available on the market, so this kind of feedback is extremely important 👌.
      I'm constantly trying to improve my circuits, and I made a more robust/tougher version, in this video. th-cam.com/video/mznx0xoF8Ck/w-d-xo.html

  • @m0nad539
    @m0nad539 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    After a while my Shelly 1L lost network connectivity. Switch still worked, but schedules didn't. Small LED lamp only, with original bypass, who knows... So, I whipped up your circuit. Great idea! And so far things look good, thanks for sharing! Let's see how long this is going to be stable, but I have more faith in your half-phase approach than in the bypass.💡

    • @MyProjectBoxChannel
      @MyProjectBoxChannel  ปีที่แล้ว

      Interesting🤔. I never thought of trying it with the shelly1L. Thanks for sharing 👍

    • @r1ng0s4
      @r1ng0s4 ปีที่แล้ว

      i have the shelly 1 L also but i cant get the lamp not to flicker no matter the switch possition :( can you share your diagramm? thank you very much

    • @m0nad539
      @m0nad539 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@r1ng0s4 Oh, a misunderstanding here: I ditched the Shelly 1L and used "your circuit" literally, with a non-L Shelly. I have not tried with the 1L either.

    • @m0nad539
      @m0nad539 ปีที่แล้ว

      FYI, I have tried with Shelly 1L now and that seems to work as well, in principle. Comms is stable, alas the LED flickers. I do not (yet) use the bypass (I don't think that would make sense electrically) and I am not sure if the flicker might be related to the specific LED lightbulb I'm using right now - it's not the same bulb as the one I'm using with my more permanent Shelly 1 (non-L) setup. YMMV.

  • @musarioo
    @musarioo หลายเดือนก่อน +2

    Hello! Great video btw. My question is would this also work with the Shelly dimmer 2 and Shelly 1 plus? I have ordered these and in some switches I don’t even have a place for a neutral because the wires are cemented.

    • @MyProjectBoxChannel
      @MyProjectBoxChannel  หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      People have tested the circuit with the shelly1 plus, and report that it works well. I don't think it's possible to use this circuit with the shelly dimmer 😩.

    • @musarioo
      @musarioo หลายเดือนก่อน +2

      @@MyProjectBoxChannel But wouldn’t It work the same for the dimmer as the neutral would also be connected? The shelly dimmer also works without a neutral if you have more than 20W of usage. Thank you for the previous reply.

    • @MyProjectBoxChannel
      @MyProjectBoxChannel  หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      @@musarioo yes for less than 20w you need the shelly bypass, for no-neutral operation. I don't think my no-neutral circuit works with the shelly dimmer. I don't think it will like the capacitor in my circuit, but test it maybe I'm wrong. Let me know what you find out

    • @enriqueiglo2
      @enriqueiglo2 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      @@musarioo Hey, did you have a chance to test it? I'm also interested if this hack would work for dimmers =D

  • @bulusomer
    @bulusomer ปีที่แล้ว +1

    First of all thank you for the great work. I have made your circuit but all I had was the blinking lamp. Where can I be mistaken?

    • @MyProjectBoxChannel
      @MyProjectBoxChannel  ปีที่แล้ว

      You probably have a diode in the wrong polarity. But be aware that you can now have a damaged diode, and it might not show physical signs of damage. You could replace all the diodes and make sure that the polarity is correct, or test for faulty one and replace it. It's a simple circuit, but easy to make a mistake and damage something.

    • @bulusomer
      @bulusomer ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Already had a shortcut and freaked out :) after that I have remade the circuit and all is well

    • @MyProjectBoxChannel
      @MyProjectBoxChannel  ปีที่แล้ว

      ​@@bulusomerI'm glad it works now 😅. Just be careful with mains voltage circuits ⚡️

  • @r1ng0s4
    @r1ng0s4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    hi! love your video. do i need the same components for 220V mains? thank you in advance

    • @MyProjectBoxChannel
      @MyProjectBoxChannel  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Yes I used 220v in this video👍😉

    • @r1ng0s4
      @r1ng0s4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@MyProjectBoxChannel hi again Ty for the prompt response. can you post a brief diagramm for the shelly L1 since i cant Get it to work without the led lamp constant flickering. Thank you again

    • @MyProjectBoxChannel
      @MyProjectBoxChannel  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@r1ng0s4 I don't own a shelly1L . So I can't personally verify the circuit works with it. Some people have reported that it does work. I would need to experiment with the 1L first, before I provide a circuit example.

  • @randumtasx
    @randumtasx ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Love this. Any thoughts on how to put the shelly at fixture with the same safety features and set up? Would love to see a follow up on this. Unfortunately my switch boxes are too tight.

    • @MyProjectBoxChannel
      @MyProjectBoxChannel  ปีที่แล้ว

      I have a similar circuit, were you are able to put the shelly1 directly by the light fixture. It's slightly more complex. You only need to put a diode across your light switch, and everything else goes up by the light fixture. Here is the video for the shelly1 th-cam.com/video/YItMu6VJGBI/w-d-xo.html
      You can do 3-way (2-way) light switching aswell, as shown with this Sonoff example example, of the same circuit. th-cam.com/video/9hQFFsBkxaU/w-d-xo.html

    • @randumtasx
      @randumtasx ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thank you! I will check this out

    • @randumtasx
      @randumtasx ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Any chance you have the walk through of actually how to make the module on the Board? (novice here) looks like a great option.

  • @thedaffyduck
    @thedaffyduck 5 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Hello, great video. I have no neutral wire and will try this hack. About the fusible resistor, 10 ohm 1W or 2W?

    • @MyProjectBoxChannel
      @MyProjectBoxChannel  5 หลายเดือนก่อน

      2W is better.😉👍
      I'm constantly trying to improve my circuits, and I made a more robust/tougher version, in this video. th-cam.com/video/mznx0xoF8Ck/w-d-xo.html

    • @thedaffyduck
      @thedaffyduck 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@MyProjectBoxChannel Thanks mate! One silly doubt: If the switch operates not one but two or more lamps, I guess ALL lamps MUST have the diode/condenser circuit conduit? what happens if a lamp doesn't have it, blows up, blows the fuse, doesn't light up?

    • @MyProjectBoxChannel
      @MyProjectBoxChannel  5 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@thedaffyduck you can use just one diode capacitor feeding more than one light, but it needs to be at the first light supplied from the switch. It is better to have a capacitor/diodes on every light, you will have less chance of making a mistake, and blow something up.

  • @yangjuin
    @yangjuin 9 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Hi I was wondering if you have figured out how to work with a dimmable wifi module?

    • @MyProjectBoxChannel
      @MyProjectBoxChannel  9 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      It will be very tricky/difficult, to make a simple circuit for a dimmer WiFi-enabled module. My "simple circuit" definitely won't work 😕 🤨😢

    • @yangjuin
      @yangjuin 9 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      @@MyProjectBoxChannel haha thank you for responding I did try it and yes it didn’t work! But thank you for sharing this work around as it worked with my previous wifi switch😊😊

    • @enriqueiglo2
      @enriqueiglo2 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      @@yangjuin Can you tell more about your tests? How did the dimmable bulb behave with this hack and a dimmer module?

    • @yangjuin
      @yangjuin หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@enriqueiglo2 hi! It was a wifi enabled dimmer switch and apparently yes it does not work apparently. The switch has leds on it and they were not lit up after connection

  • @petslavov
    @petslavov ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Thanks for the helpful video.
    I was wondering is it possible to use this schema to build a bypass for the "shelly 1l" (if you don't have the shelly bypass ) - maybe will be only the part with the capacitor ? Do you have an idea?

    • @MyProjectBoxChannel
      @MyProjectBoxChannel  ปีที่แล้ว

      The way the Shelly1L bypass works is completely different!! Please don't attempt to use my circuit on the Shelly1L. I haven't experimented with the 1L Yet. But I will leave a message here if if I know how to make it work. If you however do want to experiment your self, please put a "current limiting" light bulb, inline with the Live wire, feeding your test setup. (must be old style incandescent light bulb) That way nothing will go bang!

  • @portumaan
    @portumaan 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Thank for the video. Learned a lot! What I was actually looking for is what happens if you have the fisical switch on, and want to control it with the app. What happens then?

    • @MyProjectBoxChannel
      @MyProjectBoxChannel  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      You can use both switch and app, at the same time or independently. Or Google/Alexa control, and have manual switch control as well. It doesn't matter which position the light-switch is in, you will still have app control as well. The Shelly just gets an edge trigger from the switch. Whether the switch is on or off, it's just a trigger for the Shelly. Both on to off transition, is a trigger. And off to on transition, is another trigger.

  • @zrebrutibreniti
    @zrebrutibreniti 2 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Is it possible to achive this with a 2-way circuit? (2 switches for the same lightbulb, without neutral line accesible)

    • @MyProjectBoxChannel
      @MyProjectBoxChannel  2 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      @@zrebrutibreniti I don't think It's possible to do it in the same way😮‍💨. I have tried to work it out for 2way switches, but no luck yet. It will be possible in slightly different layout. If you put the shelly up by the light fixture, it should work just like my sonoff 2-way lighting circuit. th-cam.com/video/9hQFFsBkxaU/w-d-xo.html

  • @johno1234utube
    @johno1234utube 6 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    When you toggled the light with the switch, the app didn't reflect the change in state of the load?

    • @MyProjectBoxChannel
      @MyProjectBoxChannel  6 หลายเดือนก่อน

      This video was made quite a while ago, so maybe the new version of the shelly app responds more quickly🤔. I'm not entirely sure.

  • @ComputingCode
    @ComputingCode ปีที่แล้ว

    I'm curious if a regular Shelly One work in the following setup. L to L, O to the bulb, N to the L side of a SmartBulb! Tanking into account the smartbulb is always powered (not always ON though), will the shelly work? In this case 240VAC would be split among the 2 seried consumers, Basically making 120VAC fall on each.

  • @mooniksiz
    @mooniksiz ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Another great video! Would it work the same way 2-gang switch and Shelly 2.5?

    • @MyProjectBoxChannel
      @MyProjectBoxChannel  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Yes I think it will. You only need the bypass on one output channel. The second channel can work as normal without the bypass and diodes. I have a similar example with a sonoff m5 th-cam.com/video/8h29-0rpQJo/w-d-xo.html and with a sonoff dual-r3 th-cam.com/users/shortsWXQtRh0gYJM?feature=share
      Please let me know how it works out for you😉

    • @mooniksiz
      @mooniksiz ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@MyProjectBoxChannel Thanks a lot for quick and prompt answer!

    • @mooniksiz
      @mooniksiz ปีที่แล้ว

      @@MyProjectBoxChannel Quite a lot of work esp. first time but worth it. It works! Thanks again!

    • @MyProjectBoxChannel
      @MyProjectBoxChannel  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@mooniksiz so you managed to get my bypass circuit working on the shelly 2.5?

    • @mooniksiz
      @mooniksiz ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@MyProjectBoxChannel Yes, exactly!

  • @andreasenns1044
    @andreasenns1044 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks for the video. I have 2 lights at 2 different outlets, left and right beside a mirror. Do in need the part with the capacitor on both lights?

    • @MyProjectBoxChannel
      @MyProjectBoxChannel  ปีที่แล้ว

      You could have two LED light bulbs connected(in parallel) to one "bypass circuit". But you might have to increase the capacitor size. It's probably better and easier, to have a separate "bypass circuit" for every bulb. Because you would have to know what bulb is being fed from the switch first, then connect the bypass there. Then the second bulb would have to be connected after the bypass to the first bulb. You could easily make a mistake! And blow something up! I recommend you make a test circuit first, and verify that it all works as planned. If you test it with a "safety limiting incandescent lamp" , in-line with the L supply. Then nothing will blow up if you make a mistake with your test circuit. Remember this circuit is a experimental prototype! So you could use bigger diodes/capacitors for more current, that meets your specific requirements. It's worth remembering that not all LED bulbs will work with this circuit, but most newer ones will work just fine. Good luck! and let us know how you get on😉👍

    • @andreasenns1044
      @andreasenns1044 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@MyProjectBoxChannel Thanks for your reply. I don't know how the cables are inside the wall, so I did it with seperate "bypass circuits" for each light and it works like a charm. Used a shelly plus 1 and the components you mentioned in your video. The only thing is, that its very tight behind the switch with the additional components, but i had luck and it fits. Thank you very much :)

    • @MyProjectBoxChannel
      @MyProjectBoxChannel  ปีที่แล้ว

      @@andreasenns1044 I'm glad that you got it working in the end😉👍. It's nice to know that it works with the shelly plus1, as I have not tested it on the plus1 yet😉. If you solder some flexible wires to the diodes, it might make the installation a bit easier.

  • @AnotherJoe
    @AnotherJoe ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Could the Shelly 1 also be used in the European 2 gang configuration without neutral?

    • @MyProjectBoxChannel
      @MyProjectBoxChannel  ปีที่แล้ว

      If you want to make a double light switch, then the shelly2.5 could work without neutral(its better than using 2 shelly1s). It could be wired like my sonoff dual-r3 circuit in this video. th-cam.com/users/shortsWXQtRh0gYJM?feature=share

    • @AnotherJoe
      @AnotherJoe ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@MyProjectBoxChannel Thanks! I’ll have a look at that!

    • @MyProjectBoxChannel
      @MyProjectBoxChannel  ปีที่แล้ว

      @@AnotherJoe here is the same concept but with a sonoff M5 th-cam.com/video/8h29-0rpQJo/w-d-xo.html

  • @haligali386
    @haligali386 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Let me know if and when it burns. Looks like great idea :)

    • @MyProjectBoxChannel
      @MyProjectBoxChannel  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      I've tested it extensively with both the Shelly1 and sonoff miniR2. So far so good. Adding the fusible resistor is a good idea, because it takes a lot of stress off of the capacitor and diodes. It acts as a safety fuse if anything goes wrong. Obviously the more people that test this circuit. The more we will have information on its reliability.

    • @haligali386
      @haligali386 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@MyProjectBoxChannel I just had removed my V1 Bypasses from Shelly as i was afraid to burn down the apartment. As IT guys i have some understandung but its more like 1%.
      Will monitore this here for future feedbacks

    • @adi_tudor
      @adi_tudor 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Hello! Thanks, nice idea! I'm thinking to try this on Shelly 2.5. Do you think it will work? I really need a no neutral 2 channel relay...

    • @MyProjectBoxChannel
      @MyProjectBoxChannel  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@adi_tudor it might work, but only for LED bulbs. Don't try it with AC motors. I haven't tested the circuit with the Shelly2.5 yet. Let me know if it works, if you give it a try( use a "safety current limiting" incandescent bulb, to test your circuit first). You probably won't be able to do it on a version with Dimming function.

  • @DIYGUYIL
    @DIYGUYIL 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    can it work with a 33uf 400v capacitor?

    • @MyProjectBoxChannel
      @MyProjectBoxChannel  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Yes 33uf is fine, but you should add the 10R fusible, Inrush current limiting resistor, for such a big capacitor. You can also use bigger diodes if you need more current.

    • @DIYGUYIL
      @DIYGUYIL 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@MyProjectBoxChannel Thank you, It's working perfect.
      I don't need more current, only one LED light, probably like 10W.
      I used a Shely Plus 1, works perfect.

    • @MyProjectBoxChannel
      @MyProjectBoxChannel  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@DIYGUYIL no problem happy to help. Thanks for testing it on a different device and verifying that it works.

    • @frolfe1
      @frolfe1 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Hi, great video, what is the specification of the fusible resistor (Watts, voltage, current, etc) and where do you source yours. How did you choose 10R

    • @MyProjectBoxChannel
      @MyProjectBoxChannel  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@frolfe1 10 ohm 1watt fusible resistor. The value is not critical( it can be 1/2w or 15ohm, just has to be fusible type). You can steal one, out of a old LED light bulb. It's a common value fusible resistor used in these type of things. The circuit doesn't "need" it to function, it's just for safety and in Rush current protection, of the capacitor. I got mine from Robert Mauser. mauser.pt/catalog/pesquisa.php?keywords=Resist%C3%AAncia%20fusivel%2010R%20

  • @EVPaddy
    @EVPaddy 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Just nitpicking: You don't always need the bypass with the 1L

    • @MyProjectBoxChannel
      @MyProjectBoxChannel  2 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      That's true, but you need a lot of LED lamps connected in parallel, or use old school tungsten filament lamps. So most people would need it.

  • @adi_tudor
    @adi_tudor ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hello! I tried this circuit, using an incandescent light bulb and and Compact Fluorescent Lamp (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compact_fluorescent_lamp). Every time the circuit worked for a couple of seconds and then the inline fusible resistor burned out. Is this because the light bulbs? Should this work only with LED bulbs? Thanks!

    • @MyProjectBoxChannel
      @MyProjectBoxChannel  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Yes you are correct. My experimental circuit was designed for LED bulbs. BUT it should work fine with some CFL lamps. It's possible the load is to much for the 10 ohm resistor. It's also possible that the capacitor is connected with incorrect polarity. Or maybe a diode is the incorrect polarity.

    • @adi_tudor
      @adi_tudor ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@MyProjectBoxChannel Thanks! I double checked the polarity and recreated the circuit with new components. Every time the fusible resistor burned. So, probably you are right about the load. I will go and buy some new LED bulbs and test again. Will keep you posted with the results. Cheers!

    • @MyProjectBoxChannel
      @MyProjectBoxChannel  ปีที่แล้ว

      @@adi_tudor You could also try it with the light bulb disconnected/removed, and see if the fusible resistor still burns out. That way at least you know your components are connected correctly. Be aware of the capacitor holding a charge, after the power is disconnected, So you don't get a nasty zap from it.